Article: 99389 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Albert & Btittany Spear" References: Subject: Re: Fuse for TS-830 & Neutralization ? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 20:15:22 GMT I have never heard of a neutralization procedure like this you mention. I have always done a neutralization WITHOUT excitation. Is this procedure you describe from an owners manual for a commercial rig? "Gary Schafer" wrote in message news:ca0ld1lgctolli71hobtvgj8e47oh1p4qp@4ax.com... >A check for proper neutralization can be done with full drive and the > final tuned properly. Watch the power output and the plate current as > you change the final plate tuning capacitor. Minimum plate current > should occur at exactly the point of maximum output. If it does not > the neutralization is off. > > If you can observe grid current, the grid current should peak at > exactly plate current dip also. > > You can rotate the neutralization cap slightly and try the above > again. It will get worse with one direction of rotation of the plate > tune with a particular direction of rotation of the neutralization > cap. A little diddling and you will be able to determine which way to > go. > > 73 > Gary K4FMX > > On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 15:43:05 GMT, Edward Knobloch > wrote: > >>Hi, >> >>I would think that you would use a 3 amp fuse if wired for 220V, >>6A for 110V (I don't have a Kenwood manual to check this, >>but a 6 amp fuse sounds right at 110V). >> >>First check your resting plate current before tuning up. >>With PTT set to transmit, and no drive/no audio, >>the finals should draw about 40mA plate current. >>If not, adjust the bias control for this reading. >> >>The proper way to dip a pi net final is to start with the loading >>capacitor fully meshed. Apply some drive and quickly dip the final >>plate current using the plate tune control only. >> >>Then apply full drive* (see note) and read the plate current >>(it should be much less than the rated 250 mA). >>Assuming it is less than the desired 250mA, >>increase the loading control slightly >>(say, enough to result in a 20 mA increase in plate current >> with full drive)and then quickly redip >>using the plate tuning control. >>(+Always+ redip with the tuning control last, >>or you will be operating with your final out of resonance). >>Note that you are always dipping with full drive applied. >> >>Note that you can dip the final using the plate tune control >>while less than full drive is applied (easier on the tubes), >>but you then must increase the drive to full drive to see >>if you have reached 250mA plate current at dip >>with full drive, which is your goal. >> >>Continue this procedure until either the rf power output >>no longer increases when you increase the load control >>with drive, >>or you have reached 250mA plate current at dip with full drive, >>whichever comes first. Do not operate with more than >>250mA plate current at dip, full drive, or you will overheat >>your finals. >> >>*Note: By "full drive", I mean enough drive for the plate current >> to stop increasing very much with increasing drive (saturated), >> not that the drive control is fully clockwise. >> >>If you don't get around 100W rf out at 250mA dipped plate current, >>one possibility is that the final tubes are not well balanced. >>With the bias set for 40mA with both finals installed, >>if you remove one, the resting current should be 20mA. >>If the tubes aren't well balanced, one tube may be hogging >>all the current, and the rig will be unable to deliver more than >>about 50 or 60 Watts. Note: remove one of the tubes >>completely for this check, do not just remove the plate connector >>of the unused tube, or it may be damaged by excessive screen current >>(the screen tries to act like the plate). Caution: high voltage >>at plate caps of the 6146's - keep one hand in your pocket >>when you poke around near the final cage. Use a shorting stick >>before touching the plate cap. >> >>To check neutralization, you transmit with no drive, >>PTT on, no audio, (i.e., same set-up as 40 mA bias check), >>and with the loading capacitor fully meshed, you rock >>the plate tuning capacitor throughout its full range. >>The plate current meter should remain at 40mA. >>Any sudden, drastic increase as you vary the plate tune >>capacitor with no drive in this manner indicates >>a neutralization problem. Note: this can be a destructive >>test, as the onset of a parasitic oscillation can be sudden, >>with very high plate current. Be ready to turn off >>the final quickly. A dummy load is best for this test, >>rather than an antenna. >> >>73, >>Ed Knobloch >> >> >>Gary wrote: >>> I bought a TS-830 from a ham friend that buys estates etc. He couldn't >>> get more than 30 watts out of the '830. I tried it and by putting the >>> drive control at a low level then dipping the plates and adjusting the >>> load control and finally increasing the drive control I was able to >>> get 100 watts out. Then the rig went dead. I checked the fuse on the >>> back and it was blown. It was a 3 amp fuse but right underneath the >>> fuse holder in white lettering it said 6A I'm wondering if the '830 >>> should have a 6 amp fuse instead of the 3 amp fuse that was in there ? >>> >>> Also I noticed that even when the plates were dipped correctly that >>> the plate current meter at 100 W out was almost pinned to the max, >>> maybe it needs neutralization ? >>> >>> Thanks in advance. >>> >>> Gary > Article: 99390 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: John Mackesy Subject: Re: Collins 618T tube lineup Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 10:10:09 +1000 Message-ID: References: <4gced1thhp4709s8r84av41p0erlrikaaf@4ax.com> MikeN wrote: > Hi all > > I've got a Collins 618T which has been partially dismantled. > > Can someone let me have the tube line-up -- I may be able to use the > tubes elsewhere. > > -- de MikeN, ZL1BNB Mike, I've got a 618T *OPERATONAL* + all the manuals and test gear. What exactly is it you need to know, i.e. which modules are fitted to your unit? The RF translator contains things like 6DC6, 6BE6 and 6AH6, PA stage 2 x 4CX250FG. John Mackesy VK3XAO Article: 99391 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: Fuse for TS-830 & Neutralization ? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 21:03:04 -0400 "Albert & Btittany Spear" wrote in message news:ubdDe.1031$lX2.702@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com... > "Gary Schafer" wrote in message > news:ca0ld1lgctolli71hobtvgj8e47oh1p4qp@4ax.com... > >A check for proper neutralization can be done with full drive and the > > final tuned properly. Watch the power output and the plate current as > > you change the final plate tuning capacitor. Minimum plate current > > should occur at exactly the point of maximum output. If it does not > > the neutralization is off. > > > > If you can observe grid current, the grid current should peak at > > exactly plate current dip also. > > > > You can rotate the neutralization cap slightly and try the above > > again. It will get worse with one direction of rotation of the plate > > tune with a particular direction of rotation of the neutralization > > cap. A little diddling and you will be able to determine which way to > > go. > > > > 73 > > Gary K4FMX > > > > I have never heard of a neutralization procedure like this you mention. > > I have always done a neutralization WITHOUT excitation. > > Is this procedure you describe from an owners manual for a commercial rig? > > Gary is correct. Those procedures go back as far as I remember, and are not necessarily found in owners manuals. >From a safety standpoint, the manufacturer would rather have the B+ removed for adjustments. But, if the neutralization is set correctly, the maximum output and minimum plate current should coincide. Pete k1zjh Article: 99392 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: Fuse for TS-830 & Neutralization ? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 21:21:44 -0400 "Albert & Btittany Spear" wrote in message news:ubdDe.1031$lX2.702@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com... > I have never heard of a neutralization procedure like this you mention. > > I have always done a neutralization WITHOUT excitation. > > Is this procedure you describe from an owners manual for a commercial rig? I happened to have a 1976 Handbook handy. Page 163 details the grid current method of neutralization in a screen -grid amplifier. "... As a final adjustment, ... the neutralization adjustment should be continued to the point where minimum plate current, maximum grid current, and max. screen current occur simultaneously." 73 Pete Article: 99393 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: " Uncle Peter" References: <9blye.44421$go.15114@fed1read05> Subject: Re: How do you move boatanchors around? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 21:28:05 -0400 "Jerry McCarty" wrote in message news:a28De.439$Ut5.240@news.itd.umich.edu... > > On 4-Jul-2005, " Uncle Peter" wrote: > > > I have the same problems with 100 lbs. receivers, going in and out > > of a six foot rack!! The AR-88D is a 98 lb. beast! > > Here's what I do. Good engineering practice calls for a minimum of 1 RU > between rack mounted items. I have two 1 RU panels with fairly beefy angle > stock mounted on them. Put one on the front of the rack, under the radio and > attach the other to the rear rack rails. Cut some pieces wood long enough to > firmly rest on the angles and thick enough to fit snugly against the bottom > of the unit. Note- it has to fit against the bottom of the unit, not the > bottom of the front panel. Pop the rack screws out of the unit and your unit > should rest comfortably on the temporary shelf making it much easier to > slide out. Makes it even easier to slide in since you aren't trying to hold > the dumb thing in place while inserting the screws. > > This may be easier to visualize than describe. If there is any interest, I > can do a quick PDF. > > And some day I'll tell you how I get my 250 lb. FRR-59 into a rack by > myself. Ended up with a large 4 rail rack, which will lend itself to installing paralled runners along the sides for the receiver chassis's to rest and slide on. Still leaves the problem of carry the AR-88 around the room, though... Pete Article: 99394 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: " Uncle Peter" Subject: SSB Receiving Adaptors Message-ID: Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 21:36:34 -0400 Anyone ever play around with a B&W 370 or the Central Electronics sideband slicer units? Interested in comments, how well they worked, experiences, and what receivers you might have tried them on. I have a CE that's going on a SX-28A eventually, and I am waiting for a BW 370 for my AR-88. Pete Article: 99395 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: Gregg Subject: Re: Fuse for TS-830 & Neutralization ? Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 19:05:05 -0700 References: Message-ID: <42ddb147$1_1@dowco.com> Behold, Uncle Peter scribed on tube chassis: > From a safety standpoint, the manufacturer would rather have the B+ > removed for adjustments. Also pull g2, lest you cook your screens. -- Gregg "t3h g33k" http://geek.scorpiorising.ca *Ratings are for transistors, tubes have guidelines* Article: 99396 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "John N9JG" Subject: Re: SSB Receiving Adaptors Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 21:27:16 -0500 Message-ID: References: I used a CE Signal Slicer with a HQ140X. It did an outstanding job. The slicer also had a notch filter, which worked fairly well too. " Uncle Peter" wrote in message news:DUhDe.156490$go.76030@fed1read05... > Anyone ever play around with a B&W 370 or the Central > Electronics sideband slicer units? Interested in comments, > how well they worked, experiences, and what receivers you > might have tried them on. > > I have a CE that's going on a SX-28A eventually, and I am > waiting for a BW 370 for my AR-88. > > Pete > > > Article: 99397 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "COLIN LAMB" References: Subject: Re: SSB Receiving Adaptors Message-ID: Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 02:29:06 GMT They are all good. Most of the time the am boys (and girls) removed these accessories because of the "clutter". The older receivers are limited for sideband use by high frequency oscillator stability, so the combination may not be as good as a more modern receiver with crystal controlled front end. If you like to twiddle dials, they are perfect. Audio is usually very good. Colin K7FM Article: 99398 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "patgkz" References: Subject: Re: Fuse for TS-830 & Neutralization ? Message-ID: <0SiDe.14786$9S1.8334@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 02:42:04 GMT Wrap the fuse with Reynolds aluminum foil. Don't use plastic-wrap, that won't work. Insert the fuse, then rotate all knobs for max out. Jump the screen drop resistor and you'll get about 190 Bird watts out with good swing. I'd install a Christmas Tree in place of the 6X4 rectifier for more output. Wrap the final tubes with a layer of Teflon plumber's tape. In case the glass shatters during tune-up, the shards won't get into the bandswitch. Replace all caps in the speech amp with Vitamin Q's for better sonic clarity. Good Luck "Gary" wrote in message news:mtfkd19deutarv610hg5ergd9baetmerf4@4ax.com... >I bought a TS-830 from a ham friend that buys estates etc. He couldn't > get more than 30 watts out of the '830. I tried it and by putting the > drive control at a low level then dipping the plates and adjusting the > load control and finally increasing the drive control I was able to > get 100 watts out. Then the rig went dead. I checked the fuse on the > back and it was blown. It was a 3 amp fuse but right underneath the > fuse holder in white lettering it said 6A I'm wondering if the '830 > should have a 6 amp fuse instead of the 3 amp fuse that was in there ? > > Also I noticed that even when the plates were dipped correctly that > the plate current meter at 100 W out was almost pinned to the max, > maybe it needs neutralization ? > > Thanks in advance. > > Gary Article: 99399 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Jim Barnard" Subject: MuRata Ceramic Filter Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 05:14:56 -0400 Message-ID: Does anyone know of a retail vendor that would sell the Murata ceramic filter CFJ455K5 without a $250-$500 minimum order? I just need one piece for a Ten-tec radio. So far, I have exhausted every lead that I had. Apparently, these filters were very popular, common, and inexpensive a number of years ago. Thanks Jim Article: 99400 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "MICHAEL ROCHE" Subject: Oscilloscope SAFGAN DT420 INFORMATION Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 09:53:30 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: Gents Has any one got information or a circuit diagram for the above as I am trying to repair a fault. Thanks Mike Article: 99401 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "k3hvg03" Subject: Re: MuRata Ceramic Filter Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 07:44:45 +0200 Message-ID: References: Jim, I think I have several of these filters but will check this pm. To confirm, is this the small "SSB" filter with 5 pins? Article: 99402 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "k3hvg03" Subject: Re: SSB Receiving Adaptors Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 07:50:28 +0200 Message-ID: References: I have to agree with Colin. Although they'll all work just fine, the final results may be less than what you may be expecting. Used with an R-390, 390A, et al, you have a fine combination. Also, I'll add the Hammarlund HC-10 to the list. Article: 99403 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors Subject: Re: Wanted: Drake 2B receiver parts From: k5dh@raytheon.com (--=H=--) References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 12:18:34 GMT I know that I can buy crystals from the "usual suspects". I was hoping someone had them lying around. The air variable cap needs to come from a 2B. It's not an off-the-shelf type of part, plus it has a built-in vernier drive and the right shaft diameters, so I can't use a generic part. Having one custom-built would cost more than the radio is worth. So... the search goes on... 73, Dean K5DH In article , onw9mapsgb@no.arrl.spam.net says... > >"--=H=--" wrote in message >news:mh6De.2$b06.1@dfw-service2.ext.ray.com... >> Anyone parting out a Drake 2B receiver? >> >> I need the following parts: >> >> (1) "Preselector" air variable capacitor assembly >> (2) crystal for 28.0 - 28.5 MHz (10m CW) >> (3) crystal for 10.0 - 10.5 MHz (30m) >> >> I suspect that 2A parts will also work. >> I know that 4-Line parts will not work. >> >> 73, >> Dean K5DH >> > >Well the crystals can be obtained from the normal crystal makers. > >For the air variable - I would try Oren Elliott Products (largest mfg in > >US) - who supplied air variable capacitors for many manufacturers (Heath >, >Collins, etc.) >http://www.orenelliottproducts.com/capacito.htm > >w9gb > > Article: 99404 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Heytubeguy" Subject: FA: 71A, 6146A, 5Y3/6087 TUBES Message-ID: Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 13:04:06 GMT See these tubes at : http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZheytubeguy other tubes and items coming as well. Check back often, tnx heytubeguy Article: 99405 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: WD=?ISO-8859-1?B?2A==?=HCO Subject: Wanted: Dead Hallicrafters SR-150 Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 08:18:54 -0500 Message-ID: The title sez it all. 73 de WDØHCO Article: 99406 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors Subject: Re: Fuse for TS-830 & Neutralization ? From: "JB" Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 07:33:17 -0700 Message-ID: References: <42da4ac1$0$54808$ad3619e8@news.netcarrier.net> You will blow the fuse if you spend too much time with the key down. I used to run RTTY, reducing the power to 60 watts or so. You would be safe tuning up in TUNE position, but need to go CW for the full power touchup. There should be no reason to lean on it for more than 5 seconds at a time. Nutralization is easy. Adjust bias for 55 ma. no drive, then tune up the radio normally on 28 MHz. and switch the screen grids off on the back panel and adjust neut cap for minimum output on a receiver. Use an insulated screwdriver or you will burn out the plate choke. When you are through, plate dip and maximum RF output should be very close (but not usually exactly coincidental) and maximum RF output should occur at 225-250 ma. IP. Always tune rig for maximum RF output for cleanest signal and reduce drive for your needs. ac6tk "Dick Suhar PE CMfgE" wrote in message news:42da4ac1$0$54808$ad3619e8@news.netcarrier.net... > Fuse value depends upon what line voltage the unit is set up for. The TS830S > can be either the 110VAC or 220VAC....you know.. higher voltage lower > amperage. > > Neutralization need is not indicative of a power supply problem.. look at > the rectifier unit assembly and check for a problem there.. ripple , hum, > wrong primary winding wiring set up. > > 73 > Dick > _____________________________________________ > "Gary" wrote in message > news:mtfkd19deutarv610hg5ergd9baetmerf4@4ax.com... > >I bought a TS-830 from a ham friend that buys estates etc. He couldn't > > get more than 30 watts out of the '830. I tried it and by putting the > > drive control at a low level then dipping the plates and adjusting the > > load control and finally increasing the drive control I was able to > > get 100 watts out. Then the rig went dead. I checked the fuse on the > > back and it was blown. It was a 3 amp fuse but right underneath the > > fuse holder in white lettering it said 6A I'm wondering if the '830 > > should have a 6 amp fuse instead of the 3 amp fuse that was in there ? > > > > Also I noticed that even when the plates were dipped correctly that > > the plate current meter at 100 W out was almost pinned to the max, > > maybe it needs neutralization ? > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > Gary > > Article: 99407 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Dennis Griffin" Subject: WANTED TO BUY Message-ID: Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 19:04:19 GMT Want to buy: Heathkit HP-14 DC power supply (IN ANY CONDITION), for the Heathkit HA-14 Compact KW Mobile Amplifier. Please state condition, price and if cables are included via email w4dg@tampabay.rr.com or telephone (727) 391-9912. Article: 99408 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "news.verizon.net" Subject: WTB: Drake 2-NT Message-ID: Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 21:19:17 GMT Wanted: Drake 2-NT transmitter in excellent operating and cosmetic condition. Please send me your asking price. Thanks. Article: 99409 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Dan/W4NTI" References: Subject: Re: Fuse for TS-830 & Neutralization ? Message-ID: <_2ADe.2093$6f.190@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net> Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 22:16:26 GMT It is 6amps, just like the stamp said. Dan/W4NTI "Gary" wrote in message news:mtfkd19deutarv610hg5ergd9baetmerf4@4ax.com... >I bought a TS-830 from a ham friend that buys estates etc. He couldn't > get more than 30 watts out of the '830. I tried it and by putting the > drive control at a low level then dipping the plates and adjusting the > load control and finally increasing the drive control I was able to > get 100 watts out. Then the rig went dead. I checked the fuse on the > back and it was blown. It was a 3 amp fuse but right underneath the > fuse holder in white lettering it said 6A I'm wondering if the '830 > should have a 6 amp fuse instead of the 3 amp fuse that was in there ? > > Also I noticed that even when the plates were dipped correctly that > the plate current meter at 100 W out was almost pinned to the max, > maybe it needs neutralization ? > > Thanks in advance. > > Gary Article: 99410 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: " Uncle Peter" References: <_2ADe.2093$6f.190@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Fuse for TS-830 & Neutralization ? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 20:44:10 -0400 > > Also I noticed that even when the plates were dipped correctly that > > the plate current meter at 100 W out was almost pinned to the max, > > maybe it needs neutralization ? > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > Gary > I'd also suspect you almost melted down the 6146s with that sort of plate current. They probably turned cherry red, and arced over, blowing the fuses. Read the manual. Pete Article: 99411 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: " Uncle Peter" Subject: Front Panel Touhups Message-ID: <6iCDe.156684$go.139282@fed1read05> Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 20:49:05 -0400 The patient is an otherwise nice Globe Scout 40A, but it suffers from the common malady of moisture getting under the enamel paint on the front panel, which caused some of the paint to bubble and flake off. There is some residual rust on the now bare metal. The problem seems worse at the edges, as would be expected. Here's a real closeup shot, which makes the problem look worse than it is: http://antiqueradios.com/albums/temp/40_A_panel_rust.sized.jpg Question: What is the best way to handle this? My first impulse is to have a decal set made, strip the panel, and repaint. On the other hand, I'm wondering if I can have some paint matched to the original color, and using an artist's brush, touch up the bare areas as needed. Or, should I mask the otherwise good decals, and spray the whole panel with a fresh coat? I'm also wondering how to match the sheen of the new paint to the now "dead" flat finish on the old enamel? Can I overcoat the old and new with some clear acrylic to balance out the sheen? Ideas? Pete Article: 99412 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Mr Fed UP" References: <6iCDe.156684$go.139282@fed1read05> Subject: Re: Front Panel Touhups Message-ID: Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 00:33:12 -0500 Well not trying to be glib or what ever.... Have you checked around with folks who "collect" older radios? Some items that collectors balk at buying are items that have been "refinished". If your looking to just use it... I gots no advice. But I would check into the wisdom of redoing the panel. If the ol' radios are any thing like old items on the antiques TV shows, refinishing and refurbishing kill the value of the antiques. Good luck 73 Gary WB9SMX@arrl.net " Uncle Peter" wrote in message news:6iCDe.156684$go.139282@fed1read05... > The patient is an otherwise nice Globe Scout 40A, but it suffers from > the common malady of moisture getting under the enamel paint > on the front panel, which caused some of the paint to bubble and > flake off. There is some residual rust on the now bare metal. > The problem seems worse at the edges, as would be expected. > Here's a real closeup shot, which makes the problem look worse > than it is: > > http://antiqueradios.com/albums/temp/40_A_panel_rust.sized.jpg > > Question: What is the best way to handle this? My first impulse is > to have a decal set made, strip the panel, and repaint. > > On the other hand, I'm wondering if I can have some paint matched > to the original color, and using an artist's brush, touch up the bare > areas as needed. > > Or, should I mask the otherwise good decals, and spray the whole > panel with a fresh coat? > > I'm also wondering how to match the sheen of the new paint to > the now "dead" flat finish on the old enamel? Can I overcoat > the old and new with some clear acrylic to balance out the sheen? > > Ideas? > > Pete > > Article: 99413 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Charlie Hugg" Subject: FS Kenwood TS-520 Message-ID: <3OODe.40466$DC2.15122@okepread01> Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 10:02:24 -0500 I have a very good Kenwood TS-520 for sale. It is in nice cosmetic condition and works great. This one has the AC and DC power supplies built in. It come with the manual and the AC power cord. Price is $175 plus shipping >from 79602. Thanks, Charlie Hugg, K5MBX Article: 99414 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Joe Curry" Subject: Loral RF Switch Info Message-ID: Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 17:01:37 GMT I have just come into possession of a Loral RF switch. It is a SP3T variety with N-connectors. It also has a make MIL circular connector (14-15) for the power and indicator connections. The part number is 9033-D239-D2D-7A2. I have Googled ad nauseum without results. Does anyone have any information on the wiring connections and/or the specs? Thanks for your help and 73, Joe K3ICO Article: 99415 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "MICHAEL ROCHE" Subject: YAESU FTDX401 Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 19:19:04 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: Gents I am rejuvenating A FTDX401 and have the circuit and operators manual. Can any one tell me if there was a service manual for agents possibly for the rig Mike Article: 99416 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "jwb" Subject: echophone ec-1 Message-ID: Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 02:45:11 GMT looking for any info on replacing filter caps for a echophone ec-1 hums loud when plugged in. any help would be great.part numbers ect. jack Article: 99417 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors Subject: Collins 30S-1 Linear for Sale From: paul.baldock@verizon.net (Paul) Message-ID: Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 04:15:37 GMT Collins 30S1 $1500.00. Buyer Collect from WA 98282 Has been my main station amp for the last 15 or so years. >1200W output on all bands, using a 4CX1500B. Works perfectly both electrically and mechanically. Case has a few scratches but not bad for 40 years old, and has a hole drilled to access the bias control. Emblem is missing. Front panel, dials and meters look almost perfect. Solid State Rectifier. Solid State Time Delay Relay. Military pull-out 4CX1500B. I have 3 of these. $150.00 each, or $400.00 for the 3. New 4CX1500B. 1 only at $250.00 Buy the Amp and all the tubes for $2000.00. Buyer collect. EMail pbaldock@verizon.net Article: 99418 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Geoff" Subject: Need Construction Manual for an EICO 330 Signal Generator Message-ID: Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 23:32:57 -0700 I'm looking for the construction manual for an Eico 330 solid-state signal generator (I already have a copy of the operation manual). Anyone have a copy they want to sell or possibly scan for me? I tried BAMA but no luck. Thanks, Geoff Article: 99419 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Geoff" Subject: WTB: RCA Tuning Capacitor Shield Message-ID: Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 23:35:54 -0700 I'm looking to buy a shield that covers the tuning capacitor area on my RCA 13K chassis. I believe the overall dimensions are about 7 1/2" x 8 1/2" but I'm unsure of the height. Here is a link showing pictures I posted over on the Forums that show the shield in place: http://antiqueradios.com/forums/Forum12/HTML/003927.html If anyone has this shield and would be willing to sell it please send me an e-mail. Thanks, Geoff Article: 99420 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 07:33:37 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: echophone ec-1 References: Message-ID: jwb wrote: > looking for any info on replacing filter caps for a echophone ec-1 > hums loud when plugged in. > any help would be great.part numbers ect. > jack > > Here's the schematic, parts list and alignment info. http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/417/M0004417.pdf GL, Bill Article: 99421 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Tony" Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 22:29:27 Subject: 100+million now cannot see your ads! Message-ID: <42e0e6ad$0$15933$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au> We have launched Hover-iT Lite and will launch Hover-iT Pro later on this month and we are looking for affiliate partners to resell these programs to their list of clients or to promote as part of their range of affiliate programs. Hover ads are the next generation in Banner and Pop up advertising as they can be designed to be very appealing and attention grabbing but also not intrusive. Check out some of the features http://www.hover-it.com Web masters or any one who has a web site can insert any HTML, Flash, Java, Form ect documents they want and blend it in with the page. Effects to choose from are "Fade" "Drop Down" "Scroll Down" "Scroll out" "Wiggle" etc. Unlike Pop ups hover ads CANNOT be blocked UNLESS a user chooses to do so. Pop up blockers CANNOT block hover ads. ***They are ideal for quick product offers and reminders for: Opt in Forms, Free gifts, Timed promotions, Booking events notifications, Alerts on updates, Special offers, Receive e-mail addresses ( special inbuilt form) And can be triggered to appear anywhere on the page and at any time.*** We are offering up to 60% on the PRO version when it is released in the meantime you can check out the Lite version at http://www.hover-it.com. Please contact me using the information below: ______________________________________________________ This message complies with the latest Spam guidelines it contains unsubscribe links and contact details. if this message is NOT intended for your news group or you do NOT allow these type of posts please send a blank message to unsubscribe@moneywebpage.com _____________________________________________________ Tony Saffioti TSR PTY LTD PO BOX 75 RAMSGATE N.S.W 2217 AUSTRALIA PH: 61 02 9531 2058 FAX: 61 02 9531 2068 or e-mail Tony@hover-it.com --- MAF Anti-Spam ID: 20050625214348T8a8PkF3 Article: 99422 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Heytubeguy" Subject: FA: Last few hours for Collins/Heath 6146A's(Syl) Message-ID: Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 12:46:28 GMT NOS Sylvania 6146A'S X2, for some Colling/ heath etc that need 'A' 6146, SEE AT: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZheytubeguy Other stuff coming along, thanks for looking: heytubeguy Article: 99423 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Heytubeguy" Subject: FA:VY RARE/NICE McMurdo Silver 5C+'Buy it now' Message-ID: <_c8Ee.22749$5N3.3598@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 15:24:42 GMT FA at ebay address below. Pse read description and shipping info carefully on this very rare working unit from 1932-33 era: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZheytubeguy Tnx 73, heytueguy Article: 99424 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Justin" Subject: Radio Shack SW-60 Model 12-779 Message-ID: Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 11:16:39 -0400 Would anyone have a circuit diagram for this recently acquired radio? 'Little old and shabby looking but a fixer upper. Thanks in advance! Article: 99425 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Antonio Vernucci" Subject: Help with Electrovoice microphone Message-ID: Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 20:02:33 GMT Does anyone know which model is the Electrovoice microphone shown in: http://www.qsl.net/i0jx/electrovoice.JPG Is the stand original or home made? Thanks & 73 Tony, I0JX Article: 99426 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: Lou deGonzague Subject: Re: echophone ec-1 References: Message-ID: Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 21:12:16 GMT One thing to check on this radio is the rubber grommets used to insulate the chassis from the case. They are usually dried out and need to be replaced. Use an isolation transformer when servicing this radio. If the grommets are bad there can be a direct connection to the case from the AC line. I have a copy of the original manual, it's not great but I could scan it. jwb wrote: > looking for any info on replacing filter caps for a echophone ec-1 > hums loud when plugged in. > any help would be great.part numbers ect. > jack > > Article: 99427 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Joe Curry" References: Subject: Re: Help with Electrovoice microphone Message-ID: Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 22:25:43 GMT I believe it is an EV 638. Joe K3ICO "Antonio Vernucci" wrote in message news:thcEe.586$87.33842@news4.tin.it... Does anyone know which model is the Electrovoice microphone shown in: http://www.qsl.net/i0jx/electrovoice.JPG Is the stand original or home made? Thanks & 73 Tony, I0JX Article: 99428 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: Edward Knobloch Subject: Re: Help with Electrovoice microphone References: Message-ID: Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 22:34:54 GMT Hi, That's an EV638 mic (Hi Z dynamic), on top of an EV model 423A stand. 73, Ed Knobloch Antonio Vernucci wrote: > Does anyone know which model is the Electrovoice microphone shown in: > > http://www.qsl.net/i0jx/electrovoice.JPG > > Is the stand original or home made? > > Thanks & 73 > > Tony, I0JX Article: 99429 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: Lou deGonzague Subject: Re: echophone ec-1 References: Message-ID: Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 22:44:05 GMT See the ad I posted on the binaries for this radio jwb wrote: > looking for any info on replacing filter caps for a echophone ec-1 > hums loud when plugged in. > any help would be great.part numbers ect. > jack > > Article: 99430 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: Bill Janssen Subject: Re: Help with Electrovoice microphone References: Message-ID: Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 23:30:36 GMT Chuck Harris wrote: > Edward Knobloch wrote: > >> Hi, >> >> That's an EV638 mic (Hi Z dynamic), on top of an EV model 423A stand. >> >> 73, >> Ed Knobloch >> >> Antonio Vernucci wrote: >> >>> Does anyone know which model is the Electrovoice microphone shown in: >>> >>> http://www.qsl.net/i0jx/electrovoice.JPG >>> >>> Is the stand original or home made? >>> >>> Thanks & 73 >>> >>> Tony, I0JX >> > > That is the version of the EV638 that Heathkit sold in the mid > '70s. It is meant for the SB102/104. I have one on my desk. > > -Chuck And I have one on a shelf. Have wondered how desirable they are to collectors. I am in no hurry to sell it so haven't checked Ebay. Bill k7NOM Article: 99431 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "K5VSE" References: Subject: Re: Help with Electrovoice microphone Message-ID: <3PgEe.6682$dU3.809@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net> Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 01:11:27 GMT All of you are right as to model etc. I have 4 of them, and use one regularly with my Drake "C" line with great audio reports. I've seen them go on ebay for as little as $18.00 to as high as the 90's for some reason. Just my opinion, and of course I could be wrong. -- Mike-K5VSE Formerly WB6VSE, senior tech, amateur division SBE/Linear Systems, Watsonville, CA All out going mail scanned with Norton AntiVirus 2005 On 3.922 nightly In God We Trust Article: 99432 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Antonio Vernucci" References: <3PgEe.6682$dU3.809@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Help with Electrovoice microphone Message-ID: Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 07:22:51 GMT Thanks everyone for the comprehensive answers. 73 Tony, I0JX Article: 99433 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Heytubeguy" Subject: FA:Heath: SQ-1, SG-7 (not SG-1),VY Nice Message-ID: Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 13:31:26 GMT Two Heathkit test instruments: tubes checked/replaced, old tubular caps/electrolytics replaced, guaranteed not DOA: NOTE: SG-7 IS MISLABELED IN TITLE AS SG-1: See at: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZheytubeguy ALSO TAKE A LOOK AT THE McMURDO SILVER 5C!!, TNX 73 heytubeguy Article: 99434 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Charlie Hugg" Subject: FA Ending Today:NCL-2000, B&W370 SSB Adaptor, SB-200 More Message-ID: Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 09:28:32 -0500 Please see my auctions ending soon: Many items including SM-220, TS-570SG, NCL-2000, B&W370 SSB Adaptor, SB-200, MC-60A, Many More Items including some nice Vintage Gear. See at: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZhugQ2daQ2dbug Thanks, Charlie Hugg, K5MBX Article: 99435 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: Fred Maxwell Subject: SB200 Message-ID: <3qu4e1t61e7q568i8qov5pvg1snths1pd7@4ax.com> Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 17:18:14 GMT Where is the closest place to Greenville,SC that I could deliver my SB200 for the latest mods ... sofk-key & whatever else there is. Thanks!! Fred Maxwell WA4PAV fcm2@ix.netcom.com Article: 99436 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "G.T. Tyson" Subject: FS: Vintage broadcast equipment Message-ID: Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 17:45:53 GMT Salutations to all. I'm a newcomer to this newsgroup but I'm hoping someone can give me a clue as to the relative worth of the following items: 1. One Gates M-4990 Frequency Monitor. Unit looks to be late-50's or early-60's vintage, used at a station broadcasting on 930 khz. Gray steel cabinet, tube circuitry. 2. Two McMartin TN-77CB FM subcarrier recievers. These were placed in stores and restaurants who subscribed to the station's Muzak sub- carrier. The station that originated the subcarrier broadcast on 93.3 mhz. Steel mesh cabinet with tube circuitry. 3. One McMartin LX-40A solid-state mixer-preamplifier, used for remote broadcasts. Unit has 4 XLR mike plugs on back, with level controls and a horizontal VU meter on front. 4. One Zercom Maxi-Two remote broadcast telephone interface. Unit accepts two mikes via XLR plugs on rear with LED level indicator and rotary dial on front. Headphone plugs, receptacle for 8 D batteries and phone plug on rear. Solid state, probably used with item #3 above. 5. One NAD AM/FM stereo tuner, used as an air monitor at the station which used the aforementioned items. Linear scale dial, solid state. (probably does not qualify as "vintage" but fully functional) All items described above appear to be in working order. The tubes light up and nothing smokes, which is as much testing as I've been able to do with them. Somebody make an offer! G.T. Tyson Greenville NC Article: 99437 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Charlie Hugg" Subject: FA Ending Today: MLA2500, CM-2 Tunned Input, Wacom 440 Duplexers Message-ID: Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 14:18:15 -0500 http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZhugQ2daQ2dbug Thanks, Charlie Hugg, K5MBX Article: 99438 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: Simon Subject: Updated Free Book on "Tube HF Receiver Restoration" Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 21:47:13 +1000 Message-ID: Chris Parry has just updated his free e-book with quite a number of additions and changes resulting from feedback by readers, so if you want to update your copy or missed the first release a couple of weeks ago, go to my web site at http://www.vk2bv.org/radio/index.htm for information and downloading. Simon Article: 99439 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: Paul Evans Subject: Wanted For UK Museum Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 22:51:32 +0100 Message-ID: <3kigrhFum7hdU1@individual.net> Hi, We are currently putting together a working WWII period display based on a signals office and are looking for a Creed 7 and a Marconi Undulator. Can anyone help? Also if anyone has anything wartime or slightly later they would be prepared to sell at a reasonable price we would be interested, we have several CR100 and AR88 receivers so far and I believe one intention is to put together a triple diversity setup with the 3 CR100s. Would also like a BC610 but not sure how rare these things are. Should point out I am not the expert, but we do have a licensed one who is building the exhibit! The link for the museum is that we have several period ex-military gensets which will power the display. The plan is for the site to be on the air at weekends. Thanks Paul Evans Internal Fire Museum of Power http://www.internalfire.com Article: 99440 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: David Stinson Subject: Re: Wanted For UK Museum References: <3kigrhFum7hdU1@individual.net> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 00:04:56 GMT Paul Evans wrote: > Hi, > We are currently putting together a working WWII period display based on > a signals office and are looking for a Creed 7 and a Marconi Undulator. Those sound perverse... Article: 99441 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: Simon Subject: Re: Updated Free Book on "Tube HF Receiver Restoration" Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 23:26:56 +1000 Message-ID: References: <1122240356.286065.81250@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Hi Les Please thank the author, Chris Parry, as I only host it on my website. His email details are on the site. I am sure he will appreciate it and it will encourage him to keep adding to it! He plans to publish photos relating to the material in a few weeks time, so watch this spot. Simon VK2UA On 24 Jul 2005 14:25:56 -0700, Llgpt@aol.com wrote: > > >Simon wrote: >> Chris Parry has just updated his free e-book with quite a number of >> additions and changes resulting from feedback by readers, so if you >> want to update your copy or missed the first release a couple of weeks >> ago, go to my web site at http://www.vk2bv.org/radio/index.htm for >> information and downloading. >> >> Simon > >What a great resource!!! > >Thanks for sharing. > >Les Locklear Article: 99442 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Ken G3SPX." Subject: Buy, Sell or Swap. Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 21:39:18 +0100 Message-ID: <42e54df3$2$13707$cc9e4d1f@news-text.dial.pipex.com> If you are interested in selling, buying or swapping amateur radio, scanner or radio related equipment then please consider subscribing to my RADIOMART group list. Adverts are free and are sent to your email in box, either individually or in batches every day or week as you prefer. Radiomart is now in its sixth year and is very successful. radiomart-subscribe@yahoogroups.com You can of course unsubscribe at any time. Ken G3SPX. kenbaker@email.com Article: 99443 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: et472@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Michael Black) Subject: Re: Updated Free Book on "Tube HF Receiver Restoration" Date: 25 Jul 2005 22:41:54 GMT Message-ID: References: <1122319431.924791.10760@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> "Art" (CoalinsRadioCo@aol.com) writes: > Simon wrote: >> Chris Parry has just updated his free e-book with quite a number of >> additions and changes resulting from feedback by readers, so if you >> want to update your copy or missed the first release a couple of weeks >> ago, go to my web site at http://www.vk2bv.org/radio/index.htm for >> information and downloading. >> >> Simon > > I noticed he forgot to include my steam powered receivers in his book. > > I was hoping that the inclusion of the psi gauge on the R-390 series of > receivers would have been noticed by now. > So the punch line is that the gauge doesn't glow in the dark? Michael VE2BVW Article: 99444 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: Wanted: Dead Hallicrafters SR-150 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 18:43:49 -0400 "WDØHCO" wrote in message news:BF03B96D.EF6%wd0hco@ev1.net... > The title sez it all. > > 73 de WDØHCO > Send me a good one, and I will break it for you. Peter Article: 99445 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: "Mike Andrews" Subject: Re: Updated Free Book on "Tube HF Receiver Restoration" Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 23:47:54 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1122319431.924791.10760@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Michael Black wrote: > "Art" (CoalinsRadioCo@aol.com) writes: >> Simon wrote: >>> Chris Parry has just updated his free e-book with quite a number of >>> additions and changes resulting from feedback by readers, so if you >>> want to update your copy or missed the first release a couple of weeks >>> ago, go to my web site at http://www.vk2bv.org/radio/index.htm for >>> information and downloading. >>> >>> Simon >> >> I noticed he forgot to include my steam powered receivers in his book. >> >> I was hoping that the inclusion of the psi gauge on the R-390 series of >> receivers would have been noticed by now. >> > So the punch line is that the gauge doesn't glow in the dark? But it does, when the boiler gets hot enough. -- A dog will give its life to save yours. A cat will be annoyed by all the yelling and sirens. -- Jen in Austin Article: 99446 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors From: WD=?ISO-8859-1?B?2A==?=HCO Subject: Re: Wanted: Dead Hallicrafters SR-150 Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 18:56:02 -0500 Message-ID: References: Actually.... Back in my Novice Days (35 years ago) these babies usta be pretty common.... Guess these SR-150's are... (gulp)... RARE !!! One good thing, I found 4 other guys also looking for parts so when I (We) find one - We will definitely harvest it's organs. So how's that no code thing going?? Words out that there will be a flood of new hams buying Ten Thousand Dollar Yaesu and Icom rigs.... Was told COBRA might be getting into amateur rig game..... That sez it all, dont it ! Biz - WDØHCO > > "WDØHCO" wrote in message > news:BF03B96D.EF6%wd0hco@ev1.net... >> The title sez it all. >> >> 73 de WDØHCO >> > > Send me a good one, and I will break it for you. > > Peter > > > Article: 99447 of rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 20:45:34 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Wanted: Dead Hallicrafters SR-150 References: Message-ID: WDØHCO wrote: > > So how's that no code thing going?? > > Words out that there will be a flood of new hams buying Ten Thousand Dollar > Yaesu and Icom rigs.... > > Was told COBRA might be getting into amateur rig game..... > > That sez it all, dont it ! Biz - WDØHCO We already have no code. 5 wpm, multiple choice for an Extra license. You don't really have to 'know' code to pass that. -Bill