20100710.ba v04_n341.bam.20100710 >From ???@??? Fri Jul 9 19:09:52 2010 -0500 Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 00:09:48 GMT From: Old Tube Radios To: Old Tube Radios Subject: BOATANCHORS digest 4341 Message-Id: <20100710000948.854B9C1FBE0@minime.theporch.com> BOATANCHORS Digest 4341 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Time for Some Audiofoolery by Jerry Proc 2) FS: National SW-54 receiver by "Art Lebermann" 3) Re: Time for Some Audiofoolery by "Arden Allen" 4) Bear ''raslin', or, "The ATC and Me" (Very Long) by 5) Re: ART-13 by 6) Re: Bear ''raslin', or, "The ATC and Me" (Very Long) by mac 7) Re: Bear ''raslin', or, "The ATC and Me" (Very Long) by Roy Morgan 8) Re: "The ATC and Me," Addendum(b) by 9) WTB: Gonset G-76 by listown@nanniandjack.com 10) Schematic or Manual for National RCE Receiver by David Hollander 11) Heavy Iron Power Supply Kit of Components Avail by "B Smith" 12) Announcement: Night of Nights XI by Richard Dillman ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message-ID: <631051.53401.qm@web112309.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 07:32:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Jerry Proc Subject: Time for Some Audiofoolery To: Old Tube Radios MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Audio Grade Breaker Panel. http://www.aaudioimports.com/ShowProduct.asp?hProduct=64 -- Regards, Jerry Proc E-mail: jerry7proc@yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: <380-2201076318421890@earthlink.net> From: "Art Lebermann" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: FS: National SW-54 receiver Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 11:04:21 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII I'm reducing my Boatanchor collection, and have a National SW-54 receiver that needs a new home. Good working condition, with partial re-cap and recent alignment. Paint is good, with a few marks. Photos available on request. Asking $85. Pick up in the SF Bay Area and save shipping. Contact me off-list for more info. Art Lebermann W6REQ Alameda, CA e-mail: artleb@earthlink.net ------------------------------ Message-ID: <000e01cb1b08$54f34af0$a89d480c@KB6NAX> From: "Arden Allen" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: Time for Some Audiofoolery Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 16:30:06 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Audio Grade Breaker Panel. > http://www.aaudioimports.com/ShowProduct.asp?hProduct=64 Just what my PG&E Smart Meter needs! :-/ Arden Allen KB6NAX Adopt a shelter dog, save an innocent life, and make a friend forever =:-) ------------------------------ Message-ID: From: To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Bear ''raslin', or, "The ATC and Me" (Very Long) Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 01:55:36 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit An old friend asked me to help him get an early ATC (sea-going ART-13) on the air. I'm close.... ;-) When something is tough, I have a habit of calling it "a bear," meaning: "tough as wrestling a bear, and just as likely to chase you up a tree." Or three... I have resurrected some hard-case BAs, but I ain't never had as tough a "bear" as this ATC. I thought I'd pass along a few tips. This isn't a "step-by-step"; a beginner should not even try to 'rastle an ART-13, so I'm not going to cover all the obvious stuff you already know. It's just a "heads-up" on a few issues for anyone who's "feeling froggy" enough to dust-off an ART-13. 1. Don't be in a hurry. You're not going to finish in one night. Probably not in one week. It's going to be a long time before you put power to this black monster. Slow down and think about everything you're going to do before you do it. The ART-13 has a reputation for being a "tough" transmitter. Don't you believe it. This thing is as fragile as any 70-year-old, and just as hard to handle. Tipping or turning it over without care and caution will result in bending or breaking something, like the terrible "CRACK!" you hear when you turn it over and the screwdrive you left on the bench crushes the vacuum relay.... Don't ask me how I know. 2. If you don't have the Maintenance manual, don't even think about turning the first screw. Guessing and fudging just won't do on this one. Get it. Read it. 3. The "Screw Gremlins" can smell you working on an ART-13 from miles away and they will come running. So get your bench and tools organized. You'll need a full can of De-Ox-It or such (NOT "Blue Shower;" that stuff should be sprayed all over the guy that invented it). Have a way to sort and keep screws and washers (Ice trays turn over too easy. Don't ask me how I know that one, either). Important- A good, comfortable pair of insulating gloves. You're going to be tweaking things that bite. And if you get across that 1100 volts.... well.... you won't be worried about your ART-13 anymore. 4. All of you know not to try and pull the big tubes out by the plate cap or glass, right? (Again- don't ask). Put a screwdriver through the vent holes in the back, under the tube bases and *gently* pry the tubes up out of their sockets. Make sure you've released the tube clamps at the bases before you try it. 5. OK- here's the first time the bear is going to bite a hunk out of you. In order to lubricate the autotune correctly, you're going to have to remove at least "A" and "C" autotune mechanical thingies, one at a time (they are not interchangeable). Otherwise, you can't get to all the worm gears or the line shaft bearings. Instructions for removing "A" are in the most common copy of the Maint. manual at 5-40 para 3 and for removing "C" at para 4. If you're lucking enough to have the big, full-on ATC maintenance manual NAVAER 08-5Q-6, FEB 1944, the instructions are on the bottom of page 83. Here's the first indication that even the revered Collins can engineer something stupid: They don't tell you in the instructions about this little, brass dog-bone looking thingie that connects the autotune dial to the thing it's controlling. It has an indexed, toothed wheel on each end and is about 3/4 of an inch long. It's not secured on either end; it just fits into toothed, indexed slots on each end. So naturally when you pull the autotune out, the little dog-bone thingie falls out, bounces on the bench and flys down to the floor. If you don't find it, you are a dead duck. Worse is trying to fit it back together. Don't move the clutched autotune stuff, but you can rock the control shaft back and forth until you get the cursed stupid thing to engage on both ends. This shouldn't take more than, oh, about 58 tries. If you force it, it will bend and you will be unhappy. Whiskey might help. Don't try to take out the "B" HF Oscillator multi-turn unit unless it's broken. More on this nasty gadget later. 6. Once you get the autotune back together, go do anything else until your sanity returns. Then make sure all the locking bars on the tuning knobs are tight and use a large-ish flat-blade screwdriver on the end of the autotune line shaft and gently give it a few turns to make sure nothing is binding or busted. If you are one of the blessed that has the original crank for the shaft, send me a private email telling me where you put it and when you go to sleep at night. 7. Here's a great big "gotcha" that happens in a lot of WWII rigs- Ground lug oxidation. I put a meter from the PA chassis to the Osc chassis and it read 300 Ohms. Almost every ground screw and lug in the whole rig was hi-Z. Give a slight tightening turn to every chassis screw you can see, and that will fix most of them. Check each one. But- unfortunately- there are several more deep in the guts of the this big black troll, and you must get to them. For instance: there's a stack of parts right next to the 813 socket and it has a ground lug on one of the screws. Yep- it was hi-Z. You have to take the back cover off (Not the screws holding the two relays. The relays stay and the cover swings out of the way on the relay wires) in order to fix it. But that's an easy one. The real hair-puller is: 8. The Frequency Multiplier chassis. Yes- it has to come out. And it's a pain to take out. Putting it back is worse. Grid resistors 25% high and hi-Z grounds. Two slightly-leaky caps (look at the diagram and you can test these parts without pulling the chassis.... kinda). If you need to pull this chassis, the procedure is in the ATC manual on pages 70-71, and in the more common ART-13 maint. manual on pages 5-22 to 5-23. Mark the wires from the Multipliers coils or you will weep. I used colored dots on the coils and wires to get them back correctly. Be careful with the "folded" connections to the bottom of the coils. And be gentle- the coils can break and some of the cores flake a little. Important: Before you get up your courage and remove the Multiplier chassis, get some fingernail polish and mark the dial, the front switch and the back switch so you are certain to get them back together correctly. The bandswitch segments are held together with another Collins screw-up; a "U"-shaped clip that holds tension on the segments and which falls-out if you hold your mouth wrong. This clip is not sold at WalMart. If the clip comes loose, this can allow the rear bandswitch (2nd Multiplier) to become mis-aligned, and it took me three blankettyblankblank times of pulling this chassis in and out to finally get it fixed, all because I marked the front switch and neglected to mark the back. I fixed the hi-Z grounds and replaced the bad resistors. The two caps- a screen bypass and a cathode bypass- leaked less than 200 microAmps at full voltage, and would have been a nasty chore to replace, so I left them in there. So shoot me.... All the grid caps and tank caps were fine. More "gotchas" on the Multiplier chassis: The tube clamps will hang when you try to remove or replace the chassis. A screwdriver can push them out of the way. The doubled lead that goes to the LF oscillator will also be a pain unless you remove it. The big brass posts that connect the tube plate caps are fragile and will snap-off easily, as I found out. I wire-brushed the nut on top of the insulator and the end of the broken post and, using a good frame iron and non-acid flux, was able to solder the post back in place with enough solder to keep it secure... I think. The round pink-n-brown multiplier tank caps that you use to tweak the multi stages are also quite fragile. Their adjustments will be "stuck." The connection post on them is secured internally with a rivet about the size of a flea's butt. It will break off if you're not gentle with the cap, and you won't find one of these at WalMart either. This ATC won't be transmitting on 14.4-18 MC because of this. Yet, you're going to need to apply some amount of force to break the cap adjustments loose so you can peak them. This flexes the connection, so you might want to see just how much juju you can get out of the rig without tweaking before you risk it. I had to tweak this one, so I used a flat screwdriver as a "punch" and the rubber handle of another screwdriver as a mallet, and very gently tapped on the adjustment posts over and over until the rotor came free. Some of you mechanical whizzes probably know a better way. Use the insulated gloves when you tweak these caps, or you shall surely get "lit-up" with 400 volts. 9. Once the transmitter was putting out RF, I attempted to see the limits of the HF Oscillator. Next thing I knew, the rig was stuck with the osc. railed high, and wouldn't tune freq anymore. So off came that end cover again. This Osc-Mulitiplier set-up is a mix of genius and stupid. Ok- let's see if I can describe this. Imagine a coil. It has a core, which is fixed to a long rod. The rod is threaded on one end and is fixed in place so it can't turn on the other end. The threaded end of the rod is screwed into the threaded center of a cylinder. So if you turn the cylinder, the threaded rod can't turn (because it's fixed at the other end), so the rod moves in and out of the cylinder. That's what moves the core back and forth in the coil, and that's how you tune the freq of the HF Oscillator in an ART-13. It's a PTO. So far so good. Now- the fixed end of the rod is secured to a yoke that moves cores in and out of two smaller coils, which are the tank coils of the two multiplier stages. So- as we turn the PTO dial, the core on the big threaded rod moves in and out of the PTO coil, changing the freq, and at the same time, the big threaded rod (which is fix and can't turn- it just moves in and out) moves the mulitplier tank coil cores, peaking the mulitplier stages in sync with the PTO. Genius, right? Well, yeah... except for the way the long threaded rod is secured to the yoke, which both keeps the rod from spinning and moves the two smaller cores. It's secured to the yoke with a #10 nut, a star washer and a drop of 70-year-old Glyptol. That's it. Nothing else. No key, no indexed slot, nothing but friction and old paint. What were you thinking, Art?? So, naturally, the paint gave way when I got near one end of travel and the nut and washer loosened. Now the long threaded rod spins, the PTO core spins and nothing moves anymore, regardless of where the PTO dial is set. I was able to tell by the marks on the guide bar where to re-secure it at the high end of travel, within a rotation or so. I had to re-flex the lock washer and secured the nut with a glob of "Shoe Goo" (I think you could repair a battleship with that stuff...it's good). It could just have easily turned loose in the middle of travel, in which case I'd have had a hard time getting it close. So if you have an ART-13, do yourself a favor- take off the case end and put a drop of something on that nut to keep it from coming loose. I guess that's all I can think of for tonight- I still have a "gremlin" or two in the rig. The 837 filament is intermittant, and I think that's going to be another hi-Z ground lug at the LF osc. socket. We'll see. Hope this is helpful to any brave soul who tries to tame this "black bear" of a rig. 73 Dave AB5S. p.s. In case you didn't know--- I'm loving every minute of fixing this rig :-) ------------------------------ Message-ID: <0D39B39BC60540599909938C8567470F@boudreaux> From: To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: ART-13 Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 08:58:05 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Re: ART-13 Kudos Bernie N, VK2ABN, for a suggestion for getting the Muliplier tuning caps un-stuck: heat them with a hair dryer. ------------------------------ Message-Id: <57D0A654-694F-4595-97CF-9AE953F899E1@aol.com> From: mac To: Old Tube Radios Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v936) Subject: Re: Bear ''raslin', or, "The ATC and Me" (Very Long) Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 13:54:10 -0700 On Jul 3, 2010, at 11:55 PM, wrote: > I have resurrected some hard-case BAs, but I ain't never had as > tough a "bear" as this ATC................. I (and on and on for several pages) *********** Wow, "Did" my ATC almost 20 years ago and have advised/assisted in the successful resurrection of half a dozen ATC/ART-13s since but never ran into any thing like reported case. Had no manual first time around, only a schematic. Pulled and cleaned up a frozen autotune head on the PTO but don't recall any particular difficulty "figuring out " what was going on mechanically and electrically as I went along. Have to admit to not pre checking the continuity of any of the ground points but ran into no particular problems in this area then (or since). I was warned about the trimmers in the multiplier/exciter section and found the hair dryer treatment to work just fine. Encountered a leaky coupling cap (mica) early on. Buried way down in the chassis but was able to resurrect it by applying a couple hundred volts across it for a few hours. Got about 5 more years use out of it before finally having to replace in an electrical but not physical equivalent location. Some lube points certainly not easy to reach but was able to do so with the aid of a hypodermic oiler and gobs of grease on the end of a wire. Came up with a mod to excite the autotune drive motor field only during the autotune cycle, not continuously as originally designed (schematic on request). Also added a mod to give complete 160M coverage (see ER#32, Dec. 1991). Anyway, my ATC is still going strong and a great number of these and '-13s in use on the air. Dave's friend is certainly going to get a totally restored and very fine piece of equipment. Dennis D. W7QHO Glendale, CA ------------------------------ From: Roy Morgan To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: Bear ''raslin', or, "The ATC and Me" (Very Long) Message-Id: <24A89B92-700B-4AC7-92DE-75B3BA5F01B3@earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v936) Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 22:07:43 -0400 Cc: Old Tube Radios On Jul 4, 2010, at 2:55 AM, wrote: > ... I ain't never had as tough a "bear" as this ATC. I thought I'd > pass along a few tips. Dave, Thanks much for your tips on the ART-13. A freind of mine has one and I'll pass them along to him. I have a tip to add that came to me as I was overhauling the double gearbox in an SX-88. In that beast there are a number of anti- backlash gear pairs that have springs in them. Some of them go together better if you set the preload first, assemble the gearbox, then insert the springs. This puts you in danger of having the spring fly off to some never seen corner or crevice of the work area, and stopping all work till it's found. 'Seems like it would help here, too: > ... The bandswitch segments are held together with another Collins > screw-up; a "U"-shaped clip that holds tension on the segments and > which falls-out if you hold your mouth wrong. Here's the trick: Raid the bathroom for the dental floss. Cut the floss in lengths about a foot long, and tie the pieces into loops. Fasten the loop onto a gear spring, C-clip, or "U"shaped clip and fasten the other side of the loop to some handy fixed part. (I found some very small spring clamps with padded jaws at Harbor Freight that do a nice job here.) Now, if during your work, the spring or C clip goes awandering with a "SPROING" sound, it won't go far. You can issue a mild- mannered comment and try again. 'Hope this helps someone sometime. Roy Roy Morgan k1lky@earthlink.net 529 Cobb St. Groton NY, 13073 Home: 607-898-3607 Cell: 301-928-7794 ------------------------------ Message-ID: <680AB28CEE334B8798B46742666CAF30@boudreaux> From: To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: "The ATC and Me," Addendum(b) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 00:54:59 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One thing I forgot to mention, and it's important, about: > 8. The Frequency Multiplier chassis. > ... The bandswitch segments are held together > with another Collins screw-up; a "U"-shaped clip > that holds tension on the segments and which falls-out > if you hold your mouth wrong. .... How this clip falls out: The rotor part of the rear bandswitch is exposed at the back of the little chassis and at the back of the transmitter when you pull the side cover off. The "U" clip is engaged in a groove around the shaft coupling that connects the switch rotor to the bandswitch shaft. Normally, the rotating contacts on the rotor apply pressure, pushing the "U" clip into a fitted round channel on the stationary part of the switch. Keep your fingers and stray do-hickys away from this exposed switch rotor, for if you press on the exposed rotor part of the switch, even a little, the rotor contacts compress, the rotor moves forward on the shaft, the "U" clip moves forward with the rotor coupling, out of the round channel in the stationary part of the switch and then falls out of the rotor coupling groove and "PLING!" into the bowels of your radio or under the bench where a Screw Gremlin will instantly make away with it. With the clip gone, the switch contacts no longer make good contact and the switch itself can become misaligned. The mechanical coupling to the rotor is so constructed that, once you put the clip back in, the rotor will be in one of three positions, only one of which is correct. You'll see this if you look at the construction of the switch. Normally, there is a paint mark on the coupling and a paint mark on the ceramic switch rotor that will show you in which configuration it should go. With this information, you'll probably be able to re-align the switch correctly the first try, unlike a certain doo-fuss I know well, who pulled the chassis back out twice, trying to get it right, before he finally saw the blasted paint marks (DOH!). Talk about "learning as you go," by then I figured-out that I could just remove the back cover of the transmitter, which exposed the rear switch and remove the "A" autotune unit, pull the bandswitch shaft forward out of the second switch segment, rotate the switch to the proper position and re-insert the shaft. Now the paint marks don't match but the switch is right. Only took me 12 tries to get the autotune back on that time. 73 Dave S. ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 12:57:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: WTB: Gonset G-76 From: listown@nanniandjack.com To: Old Tube Radios MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed;boundary="----=_20100705125731_81914" ------=_20100705125731_81914 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Gang- Somewhere out there in BoatAnchor land there must be a G-76 looking for a new home... We received this plea for such a rig... Do please conduct any transactions between yourselves and K6GC (I am only the carrier pigeon) off the list, as he no longer subscribes... just been whacked with the nostalgia stick! ;) > From: Warren & Barbara Reese > Date: July 4, 2010 9:22:34 PM CDT > Subject: WTB: Gonset G-76 > > I am K6GC, formerly WB6TMY and many years ago I was a subscriber to the Boatanchors List. > > Having lost interest in tubes, I dropped my membership with The Porch > > "I would like to buy a Gonset G-76" > > Tracy "TR" Reese > K6GC (WB6TMY) > 155 Black Snag Rd > Eureka Calif 95503 > 707-832-4304 Home > 707-233-1663 Cell -- 73 Jack, W4KH/Mobile - - - Mailing List Archiver/Owner - - - listown@nanniandjack.com - "Plus ca change, plus c'est la meme chose" "Il n'y a que les idiots qui ne changent jamais d'idee" ------=_20100705125731_81914 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- * * This post contains a forbidden message format * * (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) * * Mail Lists at theporch.com only accept PLAIN TEXT * * If your postings display this message your mail program * * is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ------=_20100705125731_81914-- ------------------------------ Message-ID: <4C33431A.3030803@cox.net> Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 07:52:10 -0700 From: David Hollander MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Schematic or Manual for National RCE Receiver Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello - does anyone have a digital copy of the manual or a schematic for a National RCE receiver? Tnx and 73, Dave N7RK -- *********************************************************** Dave N7RK Boatanchors Home Page: http://members.cox.net/n7rk Phoenix, Arizona *DXCC Honor Roll* *WAZ#22 - 75 Meter SSB* ex-XE2/N7RK, N7RK/ZB2, VK2ERK, ZM0AJN, WB6NRK, WN6IWX Boatanchor and Antique Radio Collector ------------------------------ Message-ID: From: "B Smith" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Heavy Iron Power Supply Kit of Components Avail Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 16:33:14 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0255_01CB1DF2.18D4EE10" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0255_01CB1DF2.18D4EE10 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable East Coast HV transforsmer(Peter Dahl) used in 3800 volt 900 mill = supply, choke, bleeder resistors,HV filter Caps etc etc for sale $200 for all . Can deliver to Sussex hamfest on the 10 and 11th = or Kimberton Pa hamfest July 18th.=20 Reply off list.=20 73=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0255_01CB1DF2.18D4EE10 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- * * This post contains a forbidden message format * * (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) * * Mail Lists at theporch.com only accept PLAIN TEXT * * If your postings display this message your mail program * * is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ------=_NextPart_000_0255_01CB1DF2.18D4EE10-- ------------------------------ Message-ID: <14165725.1278434198233.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 12:36:38 -0400 (EDT) From: Richard Dillman To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Announcement: Night of Nights XI Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Night of Nights XI is upon is upon us! Each year the MRHS commemorates 12 July 1999, the date on which the supposed last commercial message was sent in the US. On that date we pick up the thread, keep the faith and maintain the traditions of maritime radio communications so that the skills and traditions of all the radiotelegraphers who came before us will be maintained. While MRHS station KSM is on the air every Saturday, on Night of Nights we originate stations KPH, KFS in addition to KSM. Other stations join us on the air, this year including KLB, WLO, NMC and NMN. You can participate by listening or by visiting the ex-RCA receive site to see the action in person. If you'd like to operate K6KPH just bring your key. No license required! Here are the details of the event: Date: 12 July 2009 Pacific time, 13 July gmt Time: 5:01pm Pacific time, 0001 gmt Station and frequency information (subject to change): ----- KPH KPH will transmit on 426, 500, 4247.0, 6477.5, 8642.0, 12808.5, 17016.8 and 22477.5kc. MF and 22Mc will be on Henry transmitters, rest of KPH HF on 1950s vintage RCA K and L sets. KPH operators will listen for calls from ships on ITU Channel 3 in all bands. The Channel 3 frequencies are 4184.0, 6276.0, 8368.0, 12552.0, 16736.0 and 22280.5kc on HF and 500kc on MF. Reception reports may be sent to: Ms. DA Stoops P.O. Box 381 Bolinas CA 94924-0381 USA ----- KFS KFS will transmit on 12695.5 and 17026.0 - 12695.5 will be on a 1940s vintage Press Wireless PW-15, formerly at the KFS transmitter site in Palo Alto, CA and one of the transmitters on the air on 12 July 1999. 17026.0 will be on a Henry transmitter. KFS will listen for calls from ships on HF Channel 3 (see KPH listing for frequencies). Reception reports may be sent to: Ms. DA Stoops P.O. Box 381 Bolinas CA 94924-0381 USA ----- KSM KSM will transmit on 426, 500, 6474, 8438.3 and 12993kc. We don't have enough antennas to accommodate the other KSM frequencies when KPH and KFS are on the air. A failure of any of the RCA txs may cause a KSM tx to be diverted to cover KPH. KSM will listen for calls from ships on 500kc and HF Channel 3 (see KPH listing for frequencies). Reception reports may be sent to: Ms. DA Stoops P.O. Box 381 Bolinas CA 94924-0381 USA ----- WLO (to be confirmed) WLO will transmit on 2055.5, 4343.0, 8658.0, 12992.0 and 16968.5kc WLO will listen for calls from HF Channel 3(see KPH listing for frequencies). Reception reports may be sent to: WLO Radio 7700 RINLA AVENUE MOBILE, ALABAMA 36619 USA ----- KLB KLB will transmit on 488, 500 (A1 & A2), 8582.5kc KLB will listen for calls from ships on 500kc and 8368.0kc. Reception reports may be sent to: WLO Radio 7700 RINLA AVENUE MOBILE, ALABAMA 36619 USA ----- NMC - US Coast Guard Point Reyes, CA NMC will transmit on 448, 472, 500, 6383.0, 8574.0 and 17220.5kc No reception report information for NMC is available. ----- NMN - US Coast Guard Chesapeake Bay, VA NMN will transmit on 8471.0, 12718.5 and 16976.0kc No reception report information for NMN is available. ----- K6KPH Amateur station K6KPH will transmit and listen on 3550, 7050 and 14050kc for KPH, KFS and KSM reception reports. Professional operators will be at the key and commercial procedures will be used. But please don't hesitate to call, no matter what your code speed or experience level may be. K6KPH verification reports may be sent to: Ms. DA Stoops P.O. Box 381 Bolinas CA 94924-0381 USA ----- Remember, this is a public event. If you are in the area you are invited to join us at the RCA receive site, 17000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd in the Point Reyes National Seashore north of San Francisco. If using a computer mapping program add "Inverness" after the address above even though the station is well beyond that town. Doors open at 3:00pm Pacific time. Snacks will be served. Tours of the transmitting station may be arranged for "true believers" by appointment only. VY 73, RD ================================= Richard Dillman Chief Operator, Coast Station KSM Maritime Radio Historical Society http://www.radiomarine.org ================================= ------------------------------ End of BOATANCHORS Digest 4341 ******************************