Article: 97299 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "James Thompson" References: Subject: Re: Simple Tone Detector? Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 02:14:39 -0400 Message-ID: <528eb$4455a751$438c87aa$28799@ALLTEL.NET> "Bill Powell" wrote in message news:ogpa52hso86gp77jq4visjgjd19m3bf0ua@4ax.com... > Simple Tone Detector > > I'm looking for a SIMPLE circuit to detect the presence of a tone - > any tone in the audible range. > > My quest: Consider the poor radio dispatcher, sitting there wearing a > pair of headphones when the next town / county over tones out an > ambulance or fire department. > > I'm looking to be able to detect any audible tone and use the results > to decrease the operator's headphone sound level during the tone. > > I have already tried a DSP tone elimination and found that: > 1) It's too effective: I need do decrease tone volume - not eliminate > it. > 2) Way too complex and expensive for the seemingly simple task. > > The circuit needs to be compact and inexpensive - connected between > the dispatch console headphone jack and the operator's headphones. It > must NOT interfere with normal speech! > > I have spent several hours online seatching and came up empty. Any > thoughts or suggestions? > > Bill Powell > > You could build a circuit using a 567 tone decoder IC, but the problem is that you will first need to know what freq the tone is. Still you could use multiple tone decoders, feeding to a muteing circuit. If you can specify the tones you want to mute, we may come up with a circuit to help. The 567 would output to a relay that would simply mute the audio only when the tone is present. JTT KF4HUF . Article: 97300 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: biascomms Subject: Re: Simple Tone Detector? References: <1146455771.879478.326510@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 09:30:28 GMT 3flp wrote: > The PLL will keep the shift constant. > You'll also have to detect when the PLL is not locked and remove the > counter-tone on this condition. Use a CMOS switch (4016 or 4066) to mute the tone. > No idea how well this would work... but > I'd cost only a few $, for the 4046, an opamp or two and some Rs&Cs. It works really well - I used to use this method to remove the 96 kHz (approx) interference in "scrambled" cable TV signals. Bob -- Everything gets easier with practice, except getting up in the morning! Article: 97301 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "Dale Parfitt" References: Subject: Re: Plastic Antenna Insulators Message-ID: <1Vo5g.1304$g01.285@trnddc01> Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 14:27:09 GMT "stargatesg1" wrote in message news:uKb4g.43$Nh7.12@trnddc01... > Anyone ever try using plastic drywall anchors for yagi antenna insulators? > I'm wondering how they will hold up to UV and the weather in general. > > Thanks, > RoD > >Hi Rod, Someone may have already given this response and I missed it. Charles Byers has both insulators and element "keepers" for the insulators. A Google search under this name should turn up the product. Seem to recall they are black delrin. 73, Dale W4OP Article: 97302 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "Tom" Subject: FA: Vintage WRL Globe FCL-1 "Speech Booster" - RARE Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 16:02:21 GMT An interesting accessory designed and built by WRL for the Globe "Scout" and "Hi-Bander" series. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=9720352662 Ends this Sunday, May-07-06 16:39:16 PDT (23:39:16 GMT/UTC). Tnx fer looking. Vy 73 es best dx de Tom NØJMY . . Article: 97303 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "James Thompson" Subject: power transformers Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 13:10:52 -0400 Message-ID: <5251f$4456411d$438c87aa$30398@ALLTEL.NET> Has anyone re-wound a power transformer with good results? I have salvaged some big transformers from microwave ovens, and cut the secondary winding out of it. Then re-wound it with 14 guage till getting enough turns to produce about 20 volts. Problem is the thing gets hot even without a load on it. Is there something I am overlooking? Thanks. Article: 97304 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Skipp says hello Subject: Re: power transformers Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 18:19:24 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <5251f$4456411d$438c87aa$30398@ALLTEL.NET> Hi James, Yes, there are shunts, which need to be removed. There is/was an article about how to rewind microwave oven transformers. It was in an ARRL QEX or similar magazine. You can find a copy of that article in the Files Section of the yahoo rfamplifiers group. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rfamplifiers/ Pretty much shows you what needs to be done. Hope that helps... cheers, skipp : James Thompson wrote: : Has anyone re-wound a power transformer with good results? : I have salvaged some big transformers from microwave ovens, and cut the : secondary winding out of it. Then re-wound it with 14 guage till getting : enough turns to produce about 20 volts. Problem is the thing gets hot even : without a load on it. : Is there something I am overlooking? Thanks. Article: 97305 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Allisonnospam@nouce.bellatlantic.net Subject: Re: power transformers Message-ID: References: <5251f$4456411d$438c87aa$30398@ALLTEL.NET> Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 18:36:14 GMT On Mon, 1 May 2006 13:10:52 -0400, "James Thompson" wrote: >Has anyone re-wound a power transformer with good results? Yes. >I have salvaged some big transformers from microwave ovens, and cut the >secondary winding out of it. Then re-wound it with 14 guage till getting >enough turns to produce about 20 volts. Problem is the thing gets hot even >without a load on it. >Is there something I am overlooking? Thanks. > Yes, microwave transformer are run at core saturation and have a magnetic shunt that makes them crummy cores that run hot. Typical Microwave load runs for a few minutes with a long cooling cycle. I find old TV or dead radio cores of suitable size are rewind them with excellent results. In the past I was doing it for high current low voltage power supplies. The latest project is a 10 pounder >from a Motorola repeater about 3.8sq in area that when rewound will supply 1300V AC, and 280V AC for a small 500W 4CX250B destop amp. I've already wound the 12V and 6V transformer for control and fillaments. The Radio Amateur Handbook (ARRL) and several sites have data and tables on how to do it. Likely there are a few that outline how to work with microwave cores too. Allison Article: 97306 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "Steve N." Subject: Re: Simple Tone Detector? Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 14:01:59 -0500 Message-ID: References: How about a simple AGC circuit. You could make the detector more sensitive around the tone frequency (with a BP filter) so it will reduce gain more due to tone. OR If you know the tone freq, just notch it 6-8-10-15 dB - whatever you need. I'm not sure why you say the DSP has to eliminate the tone. It could easily be made to only reduce the tone to a a specified level. I think the tone detector-PLL is not too good a method. Getting the phase shift to do a cancell will take an adjustable all-pass phase shifter. Not impossible, but complex as well. 73, Steve, K9DCI "Bill Powell" wrote in message news:ogpa52hso86gp77jq4visjgjd19m3bf0ua@4ax.com... > Simple Tone Detector > > I'm looking for a SIMPLE circuit to detect the presence of a tone - > any tone in the audible range. > > My quest: Consider the poor radio dispatcher, sitting there wearing a > pair of headphones when the next town / county over tones out an > ambulance or fire department. > > I'm looking to be able to detect any audible tone and use the results > to decrease the operator's headphone sound level during the tone. > > I have already tried a DSP tone elimination and found that: > 1) It's too effective: I need do decrease tone volume - not eliminate > it. > 2) Way too complex and expensive for the seemingly simple task. > > The circuit needs to be compact and inexpensive - connected between > the dispatch console headphone jack and the operator's headphones. It > must NOT interfere with normal speech! > > I have spent several hours online seatching and came up empty. Any > thoughts or suggestions? > > Bill Powell > > Article: 97307 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Butch Magee Subject: Re: Plastic Antenna Insulators Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 15:00:44 -0500 Message-ID: <125cq81luegl75b@corp.supernews.com> References: stargatesg1 wrote: > Anyone ever try using plastic drywall anchors for yagi antenna insulators? > I'm wondering how they will hold up to UV and the weather in general. > > Thanks, > RoD > > Go to a new home site (under construction) and pick up a few inches of PVC 1/2 in. or 3/4 in. cut them to an appealing size and drill some holes in them at their ends and BAM, insulators! I like mine professional looking so I buy them from Buxcomm.com. They are inexpensive and in several designs or styles and Buck got good prices too!! Butch KF5DE Article: 97308 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Butch Magee Subject: Re: Roller Inductor Squeak Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 15:21:18 -0500 Message-ID: <125cren28kp2t83@corp.supernews.com> References: Win wrote: > What is a good conductive lub to use on roller indictors? The > inductor in my tunert squeaks like an old door. Any other tips to > keep that roller noise down? > > Win, w0lz Radio Shack has a product that is perfect for your need. I have used it for that same purpose, it is the electronic cleaner and lubricant. It comes in a small spray can and is some really good stuff. Butch KF5DE Article: 97309 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Butch Magee Subject: PROJECT BOX Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 16:13:09 -0500 Message-ID: <125cug53d8nf884@corp.supernews.com> I'm looking for a supplier of project boxes (metal). What I need right now is a 4 x 7 x 5 in. Or numbers close to this, abt. 1/2in either way for a little ant. tuner I want to put together. Thanks, Butch KF5DE Article: 97310 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 00:32:37 +0300 From: Risto Tiilikainen Subject: Re: power transformers References: <5251f$4456411d$438c87aa$30398@ALLTEL.NET> Message-ID: <44567e74$0$10686$39db0f71@news.song.fi> James Thompson kirjoitti: > Has anyone re-wound a power transformer with good results? > I have salvaged some big transformers from microwave ovens, and cut the > secondary winding out of it. Then re-wound it with 14 guage till getting > enough turns to produce about 20 volts. Problem is the thing gets hot even > without a load on it. > Is there something I am overlooking? Thanks. > > Hi ! That transformer is working in saturation. Maybe you can see a welded line in the iron going over the plates. Maybe not. It depends on design Saturation guarantees good enough regulation for magnetron HT. Also so called line conditioners and AC stabilizers are working with saturated core. Saturated cores are getting warm even withouth any load. Added load doesn't warm up them remarcable any more. Maybe saturation is an advantage for you because of regulation phenomena. Test regulation with variac in input but use some load in secondary ! Line conditioner behaves so that in certain lowered input voltage the saturation stops and output trends to drop. To guarantee stabilization and conditioning they need some load all the time (5 % of max allowed power is normally OK) Line conditioners are normally working in resonance principle. Therefore they have a nice flywheel efect. Gaps or glitches in line sinus form are removed 73 ! Risto, OH2BT Article: 97311 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Allisonnospam@nouce.bellatlantic.net Subject: Re: Simple Tone Detector? Message-ID: References: Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 22:11:35 GMT Sheesh here's a simple way... Get an EQUALIZER and adjust the thing to knock down the the tones and maybe tweek the audio to be easier to listen to. The alternate is a group of tuned filters (DSP or analog) and use their output to attenuate (not completely remove) the tones. Digital is better as you can implement a delay and knock the tones down before they are heard. Usually 6 to 12db of attenuation is more than enough to get the pain out. Allison On Mon, 1 May 2006 14:01:59 -0500, "Steve N." wrote: > > > > How about a simple AGC circuit. You could make the detector more sensitive >around the tone frequency (with a BP filter) so it will reduce gain more due >to tone. > OR > If you know the tone freq, just notch it 6-8-10-15 dB - whatever you need. > >I'm not sure why you say the DSP has to eliminate the tone. It could easily >be made to only reduce the tone to a a specified level. > >I think the tone detector-PLL is not too good a method. Getting the phase >shift to do a cancell will take an adjustable all-pass phase shifter. Not >impossible, but complex as well. > >73, Steve, K9DCI > >"Bill Powell" wrote in message >news:ogpa52hso86gp77jq4visjgjd19m3bf0ua@4ax.com... >> Simple Tone Detector >> >> I'm looking for a SIMPLE circuit to detect the presence of a tone - >> any tone in the audible range. >> >> My quest: Consider the poor radio dispatcher, sitting there wearing a >> pair of headphones when the next town / county over tones out an >> ambulance or fire department. >> >> I'm looking to be able to detect any audible tone and use the results >> to decrease the operator's headphone sound level during the tone. >> >> I have already tried a DSP tone elimination and found that: >> 1) It's too effective: I need do decrease tone volume - not eliminate >> it. >> 2) Way too complex and expensive for the seemingly simple task. >> >> The circuit needs to be compact and inexpensive - connected between >> the dispatch console headphone jack and the operator's headphones. It >> must NOT interfere with normal speech! >> >> I have spent several hours online seatching and came up empty. Any >> thoughts or suggestions? >> >> Bill Powell >> >> > Article: 97312 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Allisonnospam@nouce.bellatlantic.net Subject: Re: PROJECT BOX Message-ID: <042d521krta1ualt80fcd6ie6f12b59pmh@4ax.com> References: <125cug53d8nf884@corp.supernews.com> Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 22:13:53 GMT On Mon, 01 May 2006 16:13:09 -0500, Butch Magee wrote: >I'm looking for a supplier of project boxes (metal). What I need right >now is a 4 x 7 x 5 in. Or numbers close to this, abt. 1/2in either way >for a little ant. tuner I want to put together. > >Thanks, >Butch KF5DE Hit Digikey or Mouser for a hammond, LMB or pomona brand boxes. Thats a fairly easy size to find. Allison Article: 97313 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "James Thompson" References: <5251f$4456411d$438c87aa$30398@ALLTEL.NET> Subject: Re: power transformers Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 21:19:18 -0400 Message-ID: <9d2b9$4456b39b$471cd40a$7404@ALLTEL.NET> "James Thompson" wrote in message news:5251f$4456411d$438c87aa$30398@ALLTEL.NET... > Has anyone re-wound a power transformer with good results? > I have salvaged some big transformers from microwave ovens, and cut the > secondary winding out of it. Then re-wound it with 14 guage till getting > enough turns to produce about 20 volts. Problem is the thing gets hot > even without a load on it. > Is there something I am overlooking? Thanks. > > Thanks for all that great info. I will hunt down the links you posted. I am currently running a fan just to cool the transformer, but now I'm back to the drawing board. Have a great day. Jim Article: 97314 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "Percival P. Cassidy" Subject: Re: PROJECT BOX References: <125cug53d8nf884@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 22:08:22 -0400 Try the Mouser and Newark catalogs. "Perce" (aka Alan NV8A) On 05/01/06 05:13 pm Butch Magee wrote: > I'm looking for a supplier of project boxes (metal). What I need right > now is a 4 x 7 x 5 in. Or numbers close to this, abt. 1/2in either way > for a little ant. tuner I want to put together. Article: 97315 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: biascomms Subject: Re: Simple Tone Detector? References: Message-ID: <3XC5g.62784$wl.26145@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk> Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 06:25:03 GMT Steve N. wrote: > I think the tone detector-PLL is not too good a method. Getting the phase > shift to do a cancell will take an adjustable all-pass phase shifter. Not > impossible, but complex as well. The PLL can correct phase as well as frequency of the cancelling tone - it's trivially easy. Bob -- Everything gets easier with practice, except getting up in the morning! Article: 97316 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "amdx" References: <5251f$4456411d$438c87aa$30398@ALLTEL.NET> <9d2b9$4456b39b$471cd40a$7404@ALLTEL.NET> Subject: Re: power transformers Date: Tue, 2 May 2006 06:02:11 -0500 Message-ID: <43563$44573c2a$45011502$12172@KNOLOGY.NET> "James Thompson" wrote in message news:9d2b9$4456b39b$471cd40a$7404@ALLTEL.NET... > > "James Thompson" wrote in message > news:5251f$4456411d$438c87aa$30398@ALLTEL.NET... > > Has anyone re-wound a power transformer with good results? > > I have salvaged some big transformers from microwave ovens, and cut the > > secondary winding out of it. Then re-wound it with 14 guage till getting > > enough turns to produce about 20 volts. Problem is the thing gets hot > > even without a load on it. > > Is there something I am overlooking? Thanks. > > > > > Thanks for all that great info. I will hunt down the links you posted. I am > currently running a fan just to cool the transformer, but now I'm back to > the drawing board. Have a great day. Jim > See if your drawing board has room for several extra turns on the primary winding. Mike Article: 97317 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "Glenn" References: <125cug53d8nf884@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: PROJECT BOX Message-ID: Date: Tue, 2 May 2006 06:10:11 -0500 "Butch Magee" wrote in message news:125cug53d8nf884@corp.supernews.com... > I'm looking for a supplier of project boxes (metal). What I need right now is a 4 x 7 x 5 in. Or > numbers close to this, abt. 1/2in either way for a little ant. tuner I want to put together. You might find what you're looking for here: 73 de Glenn AA5PK Article: 97318 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "James Thompson" References: <5251f$4456411d$438c87aa$30398@ALLTEL.NET> <9d2b9$4456b39b$471cd40a$7404@ALLTEL.NET> <43563$44573c2a$45011502$12172@KNOLOGY.NET> Subject: Re: power transformers Date: Tue, 2 May 2006 12:33:19 -0400 Message-ID: <5a626$445789d1$471cd40a$15238@ALLTEL.NET> "amdx" wrote in message news:43563$44573c2a$45011502$12172@KNOLOGY.NET... > > "James Thompson" wrote in message > news:9d2b9$4456b39b$471cd40a$7404@ALLTEL.NET... >> >> "James Thompson" wrote in message >> news:5251f$4456411d$438c87aa$30398@ALLTEL.NET... >> > Has anyone re-wound a power transformer with good results? >> > I have salvaged some big transformers from microwave ovens, and cut the >> > secondary winding out of it. Then re-wound it with 14 guage till >> > getting >> > enough turns to produce about 20 volts. Problem is the thing gets hot >> > even without a load on it. >> > Is there something I am overlooking? Thanks. >> > >> > >> Thanks for all that great info. I will hunt down the links you posted. I > am >> currently running a fan just to cool the transformer, but now I'm back to >> the drawing board. Have a great day. Jim >> > > See if your drawing board has room for several extra turns > on the primary winding. > Mike > > Yes I was reading that also. I didn't remove the mag shunt so I am doing both of these. I have a few to play with and get right. I believe the extra turns on the primary is needed when the mag shunt is removed but not sure yet. I jumped all over the web hunting down info on this thing. Thanks all for the direction.. JTT Article: 97319 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "Lynn Coffelt" Subject: Re: 1N23W source? Date: Tue, 2 May 2006 13:25:55 -0700 Message-ID: References: wrote in message news:gf9752pjmui6i4l8hff6vkcht8povnv70c@4ax.com... > > Does anyone know of a source for a couple of 1N23W mixer diodes? > > This is not a new design, they are for repair. So, I must use the old > style cartridge unit. > > Thanks! > > Mike, WB5MYY No help, probably, but most early marine radars used the type diode you are looking for, usually in a matched pair (one reverse polarity from the other). A most common replacement, and which worked as well or better was the 1N415E (or F too, if I remember correctly) The 415's cap could be installed on either end for reversing the polarity. Both the 23 and the 415 types are very sensitive to damage from external RF fields and static electricity. Came packed in metal tubes, metal foil or other RF protecting packaging. If your use is very critical, try to avoid buying any not in original, unopened packaging. But you probably already know all of that...... grin! Old Chief Lynn Article: 97320 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "Steve N." Subject: Re: Simple Tone Detector? Date: Tue, 2 May 2006 15:41:55 -0500 Message-ID: References: <3XC5g.62784$wl.26145@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk> Curious, I ask...going somewhat on a tangent... "biascomms" wrote in message news:3XC5g.62784$wl.26145@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk... > Steve N. wrote: > > > I think the tone detector-PLL is not too good a method. Getting the phase > > shift to do a cancell will take an adjustable all-pass phase shifter. Not > > impossible, but complex as well. > > The PLL can correct phase as well as frequency of the cancelling tone - it's > trivially easy. > Bob -- > Everything gets easier with practice, except getting up in the morning! AMEN! Bob, The OP said a DSP was too complex, so I was keeping with that restriction (and assuming that he may have been an analog type of guy) How do you propose to get the 180? An Exclusive OR type PD has *approx* 90 degrees for a type one loop and 90 should be possible with a type 2...so you need another 90. Not impossible by any means, of course. If the VCO is a state variable implementation or a phase shift type, you may be able to get another 90 degree section for "free". The PLL lock time will allow a burst of tone at the start *and end*...(see next). Then, when the loop is idling, with no tone to cancel you need a gating circuit to disable its tone from the output since ther'll be no tone to cancel and time for it to turn on/off. Sounds like a juggling exercise. Comment? The PLL lock time will allow a burst of tone where a notch/equalizer won't and it sure seems a notch is very simple - a hand full of parts in a twin "T" or possibly narrowing it up with a augmented twin-T (twin-T and amp)...or there may be another band reject, I think based on the Wein bridge or some other active filter topology. Now that I think about it, I suspect there may me a way to just change where the tone in inserted into the path to eliminate it from the dispatcher's speaker/phones.. But that assumes access to the system and the OP may have just wanted to stick something in the output jack for the dispatcher... There may even be a "dispatcher tone injection level adjustment." (:-) Perhaps it is set too high now... This is the type of problem that I *know* has a really simple solution. It's just knowing all the constraints and getting the clue for that answer. 73, Steve, K9DCI. Article: 97321 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "Steve N." Subject: Re: 13.8V high current power supply Date: Tue, 2 May 2006 17:13:36 -0500 Message-ID: References: <1146323696.956339.201070@j73g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1146357642.620733.175050@y43g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> wrote in message news:1146357642.620733.175050@y43g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > You're probably right! I did actually try to rip the heating element > out of a 2kW electric fire to use as just such a test load, but the > manufacturers had used some really devious sort of screw heads to keep > the two casings together. :-( > Failing some serious resistance wire, the only other 'to hand' option > is to hook up the HF mobile and key-up; but I don't have a sufficiently > gutsy dummy load or antenna to dump 100W into, I'm afraid. :-( > Paul, Welcome to the world of design... No need to make a load to measure the ripple on the caps. You can calculate it. I did this long ago for a 5V 28 amp supply I re-wound from a 28V 5A supply. You have to know that for a capacitor, I = C * Dv / dt. When the 60 HZ wave drops, the diodes drop out of conduction and the filter cap is now supplying *all* the load current...and the voltage drops in the usual capacitive nature following that formula. I don't recall if you said the current, but...if you will be drawing, say 20 amps - you have the "I". If you have a "C" you plan to use from the old design, you have "C". Dt is the discharge time between the (full-wave) peaks from the bridge rectifier. This is 8.333 ms. minus the conduction time. I forget the typical conduction time I have seen, but I'll assume 5 ms max-load (the diodes don't conduct very long, typically.and.and the peak current is pretty high to boot!) -- leaving 3ms for the discharge time. Then Dv is the ripple, or more accurately, the sag. Also, consider that the peak voltage will be lower when loaded due to the transformer winding resistance and diode drop and anything else in there. So, solving for Dv. Dv = (I* dt ) / C If you wanted 20 amps and had 20,000 uF, You'd have (20*.005)/.02 or 3 volts of sag. BUT! This assumes *normal* line voltage. If you DO measure as some of the others suggest, remember that you'll be using whatever line voltage is at the time. Consider when there is a brown out. Pick a low-line voltage, say 105 volts and use THAT voltage, Or the ratio 105/120 and adjust your output voltage number accordingly when calculating things. You have to make sure that *Everything* that you want to power from this voltage has enough voltage at the low point; series pass & Driver & driver's driver (perhaps the 723). Finally, what I did to keep the required overhead to a minimum and, as a result, the dissipation in the series pass transistors lower (and guarantee poorer brown-out protection, unfortunately), I *added* a few extra, lighter gauge wire turns to the *OUTPUT* winding to supply the 723 and driver stuff. Add the same number of turns to each side of the secondary (put one and measure the volts-per-turn to figure out how many) and put a diode from both of them (pointing to) to another smaller filter cap. This requires, of course two more diodes and filter cap, but they're smaller. You also have to watch the ripple in the same way. Hope this helps. Let me know @arrl.net 73, Steve, K9DCI Article: 97322 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Joerg Subject: Re: Need further info on network analysis terms... References: <1146608069.454943.48830@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 22:49:58 GMT Hello Paul, > Reading through the instructions for this VNA it mentions some > important accessories; power spitters, 6db attenuators, 50 ohm > terminations, opens, shorts and throughs. What exactly is a "through"? Probably a matched connection from point A to point B. This is often used to provide a certain line length for purposes of equalizing a time delay. You'll see that on many directional coupler assemblies, like when you open the front pod of a HP4191A. > And is it possible to make up accurate opens and shorts oneself that > are good enough for calibration purposes up to 1.3Ghz? Not talking > about any absolute standard here, like you'd get from HP themselves; > but just mid-tolerance stuff that'd be sufficient for reasonably > accurate amateur experiments? For hobby use, probably. The lab analyzers come with a calibration kit. The 50ohm resistor is a barrel with a connector. The open is just that, a tube that looks like the innards of the connector have been scraped out. The short is a connector with a precision gold plate in there that guarantees a solid flat contact between center and rim. Believe it or not, the 50ohm resistor of mine is now about 52.5ohms. Couldn't believe it, considering the profit margins on that stuff. For the terminator I suggest to look at chip resistors. What is most important is to keep all the contact surfaces clean. Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com Article: 97323 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Joerg Subject: Re: Need further info on network analysis terms... References: <1146608069.454943.48830@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 22:50:56 GMT Hello Paul, BTW: Which VNA do you have? (looking for something that might replace the HP4191A...) Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com Article: 97324 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Gary Schafer Subject: Re: Simple Tone Detector? Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 20:00:09 -0400 Message-ID: References: On Mon, 01 May 2006 01:34:52 GMT, Bill Powell wrote: >Simple Tone Detector > >I'm looking for a SIMPLE circuit to detect the presence of a tone - >any tone in the audible range. > >My quest: Consider the poor radio dispatcher, sitting there wearing a >pair of headphones when the next town / county over tones out an >ambulance or fire department. > >I'm looking to be able to detect any audible tone and use the results >to decrease the operator's headphone sound level during the tone. > >I have already tried a DSP tone elimination and found that: > 1) It's too effective: I need do decrease tone volume - not eliminate >it. > 2) Way too complex and expensive for the seemingly simple task. > >The circuit needs to be compact and inexpensive - connected between >the dispatch console headphone jack and the operator's headphones. It >must NOT interfere with normal speech! > >I have spent several hours online seatching and came up empty. Any >thoughts or suggestions? > >Bill Powell > Seems to me a good AGC amplifier will do the trick. It will maintain a fairly constant volume level no matter what is comming in. 73 Gary K4FMX Article: 97325 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Rob Subject: Crystal Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 May 2006 00:03:04 GMT I am trying to find a 10.400mhz crystal to replace the one in a Uniden scanner I have. I have tried all the usual places such as Digi-key, Mouser, etc. I don`t want to order from some place such as International crystal because they would probably want a fortune for it in small quantities. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Rob Article: 97326 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt) Subject: Re: Crystal Date: Wed, 03 May 2006 00:40:50 -0000 Message-ID: <125fv0iebgbq6d1@corp.supernews.com> References: In article , Rob wrote: >I am trying to find a 10.400mhz crystal to replace the one in a Uniden >scanner I have. I have tried all the usual places such as Digi-key, >Mouser, etc. I don`t want to order from some place such as International >crystal because they would probably want a fortune for it in small >quantities. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Rob I've had good luck ordering custom stuff from Cal Crystal Lab / Comclok - they seem to be quite good about providing onesies and twosies to individuals. Their web site is www.calcrystal.com - they don't seem to have a 10.400 in stock at the moment but I'd encourage you to give them a call and see what they can come up with. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! Article: 97327 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "xpyttl" References: <125fv0iebgbq6d1@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: Crystal Message-ID: Date: Tue, 2 May 2006 21:59:12 -0400 "Dave Platt" wrote in message news:125fv0iebgbq6d1@corp.supernews.com... > In article , > Rob wrote: > >> I don`t want to order from some place such as International >>crystal because they would probably want a fortune for it in small >>quantities. Well, they are the one place you will get EXACTLY what you need. But they will be slow, and they wiill be expensive, although probably not "a fortune". For a scanner, it probably only needs to be in the neighborhood. Have you thought of taking an old FT-243 and grinding it? Probably your scanner has an HC-49 or something so you would have to cobble something together, but if you can find something in the neighborhood you should be able to move it a bit. .. Article: 97328 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: - exray - Subject: Re: Crystal Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 22:07:08 -0400 Message-ID: <125g42e4ed8p358@corp.supernews.com> References: Rob wrote: > I am trying to find a 10.400mhz crystal to replace the one in a Uniden > scanner I have. I have tried all the usual places such as Digi-key, > Mouser, etc. I don`t want to order from some place such as International > crystal because they would probably want a fortune for it in small > quantities. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Rob I'm not sure how much a "fortune" is to you :) but JAN Crystals would probably run you $15-20 shipped. Being a Uniden/scanner part maybe there would be better luck at just finding an old junker scanner? -Bill Article: 97329 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: biascomms Subject: Re: Simple Tone Detector? References: Message-ID: <7IY5g.63396$wl.62954@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk> Date: Wed, 03 May 2006 07:10:59 GMT Gary Schafer wrote: > Seems to me a good AGC amplifier will do the trick. It will maintain a > fairly constant volume level no matter what is comming in. Ultimately, a clipper (with a low pass filter to get rid of much of the nastiness) might solve the problem! Bob -- Everything gets easier with practice, except getting up in the morning! Article: 97330 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "Ian" Subject: Re: Need further info on network analysis terms... Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 14:05:29 +0100 Message-ID: <1146661398.109637@newsreg.cos.agilent.com> References: <1146608069.454943.48830@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <1146637932.421410.288860@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> "K7ITM" wrote in message news:1146637932.421410.288860@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com... various good suggestions. > > You won't get any VNA cal kits from HP these days... > > Could be helpful to look for an S-parameter test set or a > reflection/transmission test set to go with your VNA. You can find > them on ebay sometimes. They can make life a lot easier. > > Cheers, > Tom > VNA cal kits maybe not from HP, but most certainly from Agilent. I do like my N4431 electronic cal kit, no lead swapping and really fast (once it has warmed up). If you try ebay, be sure to check connector condition. Regards Ian Article: 97331 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "MRe" References: <4458B73D.9B675118@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: 1N23W source? Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 22:58:13 +0200 Message-ID: <44591a77$0$4783$e4fe514c@dreader32.news.xs4all.nl> "Michael A. Terrell" schreef in bericht news:4458B73D.9B675118@earthlink.net... > Lynn Coffelt wrote: > > > > wrote in message > > news:gf9752pjmui6i4l8hff6vkcht8povnv70c@4ax.com... > > > > > > Does anyone know of a source for a couple of 1N23W mixer diodes? > > > > > > This is not a new design, they are for repair. So, I must use the old > > > style cartridge unit. > > > > > > Thanks! > > > > > > Mike, WB5MYY > > > > No help, probably, but most early marine radars used the type diode you > > are looking for, usually in a matched pair (one reverse polarity from the > > other). A most common replacement, and which worked as well or better was > > the 1N415E (or F too, if I remember correctly) The 415's cap could be > > installed on either end for reversing the polarity. > > Both the 23 and the 415 types are very sensitive to damage from > > external RF fields and static electricity. Came packed in metal tubes, metal > > foil or other RF protecting packaging. If your use is very critical, try to > > avoid buying any not in original, unopened packaging. > > But you probably already know all of that...... grin! > > Old Chief Lynn > > > Some were packed in lead foil, as well. > I have two of them indeed packed in lead tubing. MRe Article: 97332 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Win Subject: Re: Roller Inductor Squeak Date: Wed, 03 May 2006 18:33:10 -0500 Message-ID: References: <125cren28kp2t83@corp.supernews.com> Thanks, Butch. I will get some and try it. Win, w0lz On Mon, 01 May 2006 15:21:18 -0500, Butch Magee wrote: >Win wrote: >> What is a good conductive lub to use on roller indictors? The >> inductor in my tunert squeaks like an old door. Any other tips to >> keep that roller noise down? >> >> Win, w0lz > >Radio Shack has a product that is perfect for your need. I have used it >for that same purpose, it is the electronic cleaner and lubricant. It >comes in a small spray can and is some really good stuff. > >Butch KF5DE Article: 97333 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Rob Subject: Re: Crystal References: <125g42e4ed8p358@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 04 May 2006 00:01:24 GMT Pete KE9OA wrote: > If this is a newer multiple conversion scanner and if this is the 2nd LO > crystal, you will want it to be on frequency.......otherwise, your receiver > will be off frequency and you will have unsymmetrical adjacent channel > selectivity. You want your high and low frequency passbands to be centered. > 10.400MHz is an uncommon frequency to find in the "junk box" so you will > probably need to order it from one of the crystal manufacturers. If you > don't have an internal trimmer to warp the crystal on frequency (your > scanner hopefully does), you will also need to know the load capacitance for > the crystal when you order it. > > Pete > > "- exray -" wrote in message > news:125g42e4ed8p358@corp.supernews.com... > >>Rob wrote: >> >>>I am trying to find a 10.400mhz crystal to replace the one in a Uniden >>>scanner I have. I have tried all the usual places such as Digi-key, >>>Mouser, etc. I don`t want to order from some place such as International >>>crystal because they would probably want a fortune for it in small >>>quantities. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Rob >> >>I'm not sure how much a "fortune" is to you :) but JAN Crystals would >>probably run you $15-20 shipped. >> >>Being a Uniden/scanner part maybe there would be better luck at just >>finding an old junker scanner? >> >>-Bill > > > Thanks for all the help, looks like i will be ordering one. Rob Article: 97334 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "amdx" Subject: Help with Reg's programs Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 07:06:06 -0500 Message-ID: Hi All, I have used Reg Edwards programs before with great success, Now I get the following error message. 16 bit MS-DOS Subsystem The system file is not suitable for running MS-DOS and Microsoft Windows applications. What's wrong? Thanks, Mike Article: 97335 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Ted Subject: Re: Help with Reg's programs Message-ID: References: Date: Thu, 04 May 2006 10:18:31 -0400 Mike First, Have you upgraded Windows XP to Service Pack 2, by any chance? I'm getting programs that won't run reliably, or at all since I upgraded. See the note regarding SP2 on the AADE site for the Filter program. Second, A workable solution for running DOS programs under XP is DOSBox, now at version 0.65. Wes, W7ZOI's programs, along with the legacy DOS programs on the RF Cafe site will run under DOSBox. The problem in those particular cases is that XP makes them run full screen, and you can't get screen captures of the results. With DOSBox, the programs run in a virtual DOS environment in a window, and you can get screen captures (alt-printscreen, and open up MSPaint or other graphics software and paste the clipboard into the new blank drawing that appears. As a virtual DOS environment, DOSBox does have "DOS" memory limits and speed issues. Reg's programs should run with no problem in DOSBox. See Wes's website at http://users.easystreet.com/w7zoi/ , and on the main page, scroll down to "Some Technical Notes". The problem and solution are described in detail there. 73, Ted KX4OM www.kx4om.com On Thu, 4 May 2006 07:06:06 -0500, "amdx" wrote: >Hi All, > I have used Reg Edwards programs before with great success, >Now I get the following error message. > >16 bit MS-DOS Subsystem > >The system file is not suitable for >running MS-DOS and Microsoft Windows applications. > >What's wrong? > Thanks, Mike > > > > > > Article: 97336 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew Date: Thu, 04 May 2006 18:19:16 +0300 From: Risto Tiilikainen Subject: Re: Crystal References: Message-ID: <445a1b6c$0$1447$39db0f71@news.song.fi> Rob kirjoitti: > I am trying to find a 10.400mhz crystal to replace the one in a Uniden > scanner I have. I have tried all the usual places such as Digi-key, > Mouser, etc. I don`t want to order from some place such as International > crystal because they would probably want a fortune for it in small > quantities. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Rob Hi ! Try that one > http://support.radioshack.com/support_electronics/doc30/30385.htm > X701 10594695 CRYSTAL,QX-145 10.400 MHZ CX0903 I think Rado Shack is not very expencive 73 , Risto OH2BT Article: 97337 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "James Thompson" References: Subject: Re: Help with Reg's programs Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 11:30:15 -0400 Message-ID: <12e64$445a1e08$471cd40a$12256@ALLTEL.NET> "amdx" wrote in message news:efac$4459f165$45011502$23365@KNOLOGY.NET... > Hi All, > I have used Reg Edwards programs before with great success, > Now I get the following error message. > > 16 bit MS-DOS Subsystem > > The system file is not suitable for > running MS-DOS and Microsoft Windows applications. > > What's wrong? > Thanks, Mike > > > If you are running it from a shortcut, and it ran ok before - then try running it from the program directory and or remake the shortcut. Sometimes the shortcut can get hosed. Article: 97338 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Roy Lewallen Subject: Re: Help with Reg's programs Date: Thu, 04 May 2006 11:54:46 -0700 Message-ID: <125kjfrddvpgqce@corp.supernews.com> References: amdx wrote: > Hi All, > I have used Reg Edwards programs before with great success, > Now I get the following error message. > > 16 bit MS-DOS Subsystem > > The system file is not suitable for > running MS-DOS and Microsoft Windows applications. > > What's wrong? This problem also occurs with some EZNEC installations. (The installer uses some 16 bit code, although the program itself doesn't.) For the simplest solution that's likely to work, see the second item in the list at http://eznec.com/ez40faq.html. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Article: 97339 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "AAA RF Products" Subject: FS: UG-58A/U Type N Female Panel Mount Connector Message-ID: <4ns6g.18074$Qz.9158@fed1read11> Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 12:13:16 -0700 UG-58A/U Type N Female Panel Mount Connector made in USA. One piece solid nickel plated brass body. Captive silver plated contact, teflon insulation. Unlimited quantity availabe from stock. 1 to 99 ------ $2.95 each 100 to 499----$2.75 each 500+----------$2.50 each Please email sales@AAARFProducts.com or call 949 481 3154 (San Clemente, CA, USA) No minimum order. No handling charges www.aaarfproducts.com Article: 97340 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew Message-ID: <445A6C5C.6010807@nowhere.com> From: Leif Holmgren Subject: MA110 specs? Date: Thu, 04 May 2006 23:04:28 +0200 Hello! I have been searching for a datasheet for a diode called MA110 for a few days without any luck. Dozens of dealers are offering to sell me anything from 1000 to six hundred thousands of them but noone has any kind of data sheet. I need to replace a single burnt one so buying even 1000 would be quite an overkill. Does anyone know what's so special with this one? It's used in the battery charger in a ICOM IC2-SET and as far as I can remember one of a few of it's kind in that rig. Would you say it can be replaced with just about any 1N4148 (or whatever it's surface mount variant is called) or are there some special parameters that I need to look for? /Leif Article: 97341 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt) Subject: Re: MA110 specs? Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 00:23:21 -0000 Message-ID: <125l6npf9nkid4e@corp.supernews.com> References: <445A6C5C.6010807@nowhere.com> In article <445A6C5C.6010807@nowhere.com>, Leif Holmgren wrote: >Hello! > >I have been searching for a datasheet for a diode called MA110 for a few >days without any luck. Dozens of dealers are offering to sell me >anything from 1000 to six hundred thousands of them but noone has any >kind of data sheet. > >I need to replace a single burnt one so buying even 1000 would be quite >an overkill. > >Does anyone know what's so special with this one? It's used in the >battery charger in a ICOM IC2-SET and as far as I can remember one of a >few of it's kind in that rig. Would you say it can be replaced with just >about any 1N4148 (or whatever it's surface mount variant is called) or >are there some special parameters that I need to look for? The data-sheet site I use (www.datasheetarchive.com) doesn't have a sheet for this part, but indicates that possible substitutes are the 1SS332 and 1SS355. Both of these are "fast switching" diodes - the former handles 40 volts reverse, the latter 80, and both seem to have continuous/mean current limits of around 100 mA, with a reverse recovery time of around 4 ns. It looks to me as if a 1N4148 might be an acceptable substitute, as these have similar or higher voltage and current limits, and an equivalent reverse recovery time. I would not use a general-purpose rectifier such as a 1N4002, as the slower recovery time of a general-purpose PIN-structure rectifier might cause problems if the circuit is actually switching at a high speed. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! Article: 97342 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "Bob Headrick" Subject: Re: MA110 specs? Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 18:57:46 -0700 Message-ID: <125lc8v1l0mu440@corp.supernews.com> References: <445A6C5C.6010807@nowhere.com> <125l6npf9nkid4e@corp.supernews.com> "Dave Platt" wrote in message news:125l6npf9nkid4e@corp.supernews.com... > In article <445A6C5C.6010807@nowhere.com>, > Leif Holmgren wrote: >>I have been searching for a datasheet for a diode called MA110 for a >>few >>days without any luck. Dozens of dealers are offering to sell me >>anything from 1000 to six hundred thousands of them but noone has any >>kind of data sheet. >> >>I need to replace a single burnt one so buying even 1000 would be >>quite >>an overkill. >> >>Does anyone know what's so special with this one? It's used in the >>battery charger in a ICOM IC2-SET and as far as I can remember one of >>a >>few of it's kind in that rig. Would you say it can be replaced with >>just >>about any 1N4148 (or whatever it's surface mount variant is called) or >>are there some special parameters that I need to look for? http://www.partstore.com/ModelDetail.aspx?ModelCatCode=070.010&ModelID=95158 lists it as 40V, 3nS switching, 100mA. Cost $1.10 in single unit. Google is your friend.... - Bob W7OV Article: 97343 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew Message-ID: <445AD172.8040200@nettally.com> From: **THE-RFI-EMI-GUY** Subject: Re: Coax & Rotor Bulkhead References: Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 04:12:30 GMT The Polyphaser wenbsite is the best reference site. Be sure to install ground rods at the corners of your house and in between and bond to your existing electrical service ground rod and copper plumbing (if you have any). You cannot overdo the grounding and bonding.. and that is your cheapest first line of defense. Polyphaser has the widest selection of devices and will have the models you need for the rotor, AC and DC circuits. You ar thinking well to consider those circuits as well as your RF cables. I am surprised in commercial installations to see all kinds of ancillary equipment that is unprotected and extending wires out to the rooftop or tower. The polyphasers coaxial prptectors are pretty much standard fare for commercial use as they have low let-through energy due to a DC blocking capacitor in series with the equipment side. For my station which is VHF-Microwave, I need DC continuity for remote preamplifiers. So I bought Huber and Suhner models from Tessco. (about $83). If you are familiar with the model numbers, you will know they are nicer construction than Polyphaser and you can sometimes find good buys on E-Bay, but be careful not to buy the DC stub models which are designed specifically for PCS and Cellular frequencies. The ones you want are a bulkhead type with N connectors and replaceable gas cartridge for the power level and frequency range desired. I mounted mine on a 1/8 inch aluminum rack panel. If you do something similar you can mount as you described in a large NEMA type box. Where are you located ? If you need a large NEMA type box (undrilled) let me know, I bought it for similar purposes and ended up with the bulkhead inside the shack. Joe west wrote: > Is there a place on the net, in a book, etc. that I can see examples & >diagrams of a coax bulkhead? Perhaps someone on this NG constructed such a >device & wouldn't mind sharing his plans. > My house sits on a slab and I would like to run about 4 or 5 coax cables, >rotor cable, AC & DC source all going from the shack to my tower. In Florida >lightning is a major concern so the bulkhead will have to have coax (gas >arrestors?) & other types of arrestors. All this, of course, should be >grounded to a copper ground rod. I would like this outside "box" nicely & >neatly dressed & labeled so it's easy to disconnect & is not an eye sore. I >searched the Ham books and many Internet sights to no avail. >Anybody? Thank you. > >west, AF4GC > > > > -- Joe Leikhim K4SAT "The RFI-EMI-GUY"© "Treason doth never prosper: what's the reason? For if it prosper, none dare call it treason." "Follow The Money" ;-P Article: 97344 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew Message-ID: <445AD2DB.9000106@nettally.com> From: **THE-RFI-EMI-GUY** Subject: Re: Simple Tone Detector? References: Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 04:18:31 GMT You might want to look into one of those public address feedback cancellors that uses automatic audio notches. they might have adjustment on the notch depth which might be what you need. Call an audio warehouse and ask questions.. Bill Powell wrote: >Simple Tone Detector > >I'm looking for a SIMPLE circuit to detect the presence of a tone - >any tone in the audible range. > >My quest: Consider the poor radio dispatcher, sitting there wearing a >pair of headphones when the next town / county over tones out an >ambulance or fire department. > >I'm looking to be able to detect any audible tone and use the results >to decrease the operator's headphone sound level during the tone. > >I have already tried a DSP tone elimination and found that: > 1) It's too effective: I need do decrease tone volume - not eliminate >it. > 2) Way too complex and expensive for the seemingly simple task. > >The circuit needs to be compact and inexpensive - connected between >the dispatch console headphone jack and the operator's headphones. It >must NOT interfere with normal speech! > >I have spent several hours online seatching and came up empty. Any >thoughts or suggestions? > >Bill Powell > > > > -- Joe Leikhim K4SAT "The RFI-EMI-GUY"© "Treason doth never prosper: what's the reason? For if it prosper, none dare call it treason." "Follow The Money" ;-P Article: 97345 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: You Subject: Re: FME "paper clip" antenna References: <1146827306.144897.228940@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 17:42:50 GMT In article <1146827306.144897.228940@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com>, "Doug Goncz" wrote: > Hello, my new group. > > Let me know if I am on topic for this group, please. It seems like rrah > has had some cellular posts. There didn't seem to be a NG for cell > hacks. Homebrew is the thing. > > My Cingular / Seimens SX66 ( HTC Blue Angel ) has an FME RF port on the > back. I couldn't find an accesory antenna without a cable at Wilson, > or anywhere else. I usually lay it down on its face to protect the > touch screen while I am using it with the headphones. When it's in the > sun, this keeps the screen from overheating. > snipped for brevity > > Doug Goncz > Replikon Research > Falls Church, VA 22044-0394 > Why not just go BUY an FME adapter connector to fit whatever antenna your trying to use. You don't have to reinvent the world just to get an adapter....... Article: 97346 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Chris Jones Subject: Re: 13.8V high current power supply Date: Sun, 07 May 2006 00:25:14 +1000 Message-ID: <445cb3bd@mail.netspeed.com.au> References: <1146323696.956339.201070@j73g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1146357642.620733.175050@y43g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> paul@burridge8333.fsbusiness.co.uk wrote: > You're probably right! I did actually try to rip the heating element > out of a 2kW electric fire to use as just such a test load, but the > manufacturers had used some really devious sort of screw heads to keep > the two casings together. :-( > Failing some serious resistance wire, the only other 'to hand' option > is to hook up the HF mobile and key-up; but I don't have a sufficiently > gutsy dummy load or antenna to dump 100W into, I'm afraid. :-( What about some old car headlamps? Chris Article: 97347 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: Chris Jones Subject: Re: Best way to build fixed 1.6GHz locked oscillator? Date: Sun, 07 May 2006 00:38:49 +1000 Message-ID: <445cb6eb@mail.netspeed.com.au> References: <1145768693.594483.54000@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> <124o1ojf88fjhcf@corp.supernews.com> <1145966478.761380.266640@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> 3flp wrote: > Hi Chris, > > I am planning to make it a VNA in a later stage. For now, I just need > something to check antennas, filters, etc. So a scalar analyzer with a > good return loss bridge will do OK. > > After some thought & googling around, I'll just use the original > suggestion for now. Two identical VCOs + PLLs. So in effect, I am > optimising the design for speed & easiness :-). Not for cost or > performance... > > I am aware that the mixer will produce various combinations of LO & IF > frequencies. I am hoping to optimise the power levels to get the 2nd > and 3rd harmonic down to -50dBc. That should be enough for return loss > measurement. For filter response measurements, this is probably not > good enough, so I am thinking about adding a switchable bank of low > pass filters at the output. But this is slightly messy, so I'll do it > later, and only if I convince myself that it's needed. > > 73 > Fil > VK3FLP Hi Fil, I think that if you use a mixer or sampler as a detector then it may well be possible to make the receiver relatively insensitive to harmonics in the source signal but if you use untuned detectors then it would be more of a pain. If you were able to do proper VNA type calibrations then you would not need such a good return loss bridge, cables, connectors etc. I wonder whether in this age of cheap computing power, the VNA might actually be easier to build, for a given level of directivity after calibration. Good luck and let us know how you get on. Chris Article: 97348 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "Tom" References: <1146743662.301390.156720@j73g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: FA: Vintage WRL Globe FCL-1 "Speech Booster" - RARE Message-ID: <%w67g.718608$084.717043@attbi_s22> Date: Sat, 06 May 2006 19:10:51 GMT It has a certain bandpass response curve. It also has an adjustable clipper that you can set for various levels. Thanks, Tom "Telstar Electronics" wrote in message news:1146743662.301390.156720@j73g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... | Anyone know the principle of this unit... is it just an audio amp? | | www.telstar-electronics.com | Article: 97349 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "Tom" Subject: Ends Sun: FA: Vintage Globe Scout FCL-1 "Speech Booster" - RARE Message-ID: <1B67g.718611$084.431034@attbi_s22> Date: Sat, 06 May 2006 19:15:09 GMT An interesting accessory designed and built by WRL for the Globe "Scout" and "Hi-Bander" series. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=9720352662 Ends this Sunday, May-07-06 16:39:16 PDT (23:39:16 GMT/UTC). Tnx fer looking. Vy 73 es best dx de Tom NØJMY . . Article: 97350 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "John" References: Subject: Re: New program - PROPGATE Message-ID: Date: Sat, 06 May 2006 23:45:15 GMT "Reg Edwards" wrote in message news:UJydnVJ5B5oKaMHZRVnytQ@bt.com... > For either line-of-sight or multi-hop propagation through the > ionosphere - > It's actually on the following link - http://www.btinternet.com/~g4fgq.regp/page3.html#S301" That saves reading through all the boring stuff. Article: 97351 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "John" References: Subject: Re: New program - PROPGATE Message-ID: Date: Sat, 06 May 2006 23:45:52 GMT "Reg Edwards" wrote in message news:UJydnVJ5B5oKaMHZRVnytQ@bt.com... > For either line-of-sight or multi-hop propagation through the > ionosphere - Is that really a picture of you? You look like Archie off Coronation Street! Article: 97352 of rec.radio.amateur.homebrew From: "Orv" References: <1146743662.301390.156720@j73g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <%w67g.718608$084.717043@attbi_s22> Subject: Re: FA: Vintage WRL Globe FCL-1 "Speech Booster" - RARE Message-ID: Date: Sat, 6 May 2006 17:21:57 -0700 It may be similar to the built-in speech processor that they used in their DSB-100 transmitter back in the early 1960s. If so, that unit, as you describe it, was quite effective for its day. "Tom" wrote in message news:%w67g.718608$084.717043@attbi_s22... > It has a certain bandpass response curve. It also has an adjustable > clipper that you can set for various levels. > > Thanks, > Tom > > "Telstar Electronics" wrote in message > news:1146743662.301390.156720@j73g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > | Anyone know the principle of this unit... is it just an audio amp? > | > | www.telstar-electronics.com > | > >