Article: 321440 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Terry" References: Subject: Re: Shipping from Canada to US? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 19:46:20 -0230 "Phil Nelson" wrote in message news:IMmdnVP4F6QgX5neRVn-gw@giganews.com... > >I can tell you that I refuse to use UPS for shipping when ordering >> stuff from a U.S. source to go to Canada. Their "brokerage" charge is >> exhorbitant > > The other shoe finally dropped. I paid $40 initially for the shipping from > Ontario to Washington state. This week, UPS sent me a bill for an > additional $21.50 for brokerage charges. So my total cost to ship a > 19-pound package was $61.50. > > Ouch! > > Phil Nelson > I agree. Just received a package 'from' the US; contents comprising new auto parts, valued in US dollars at $229. 75. Converted to dollars Canadian that is $274.48. The brokerage fee alone is $41.17 Canadian and then 15% Canadian HST (Harmonised sales tax is added onto that!). Our total charges for shipping and brokerage was the equivalent of $76.38 US, or 33.2% of the US value of $229.75! I've bought stuff from China and Europe with cheaper shipping/brokerage than that by UPS! Looks like UPS are 'milking' the system? It might be in order if/when buying from the US into Canada to ask shippers to NOT use UPS. These charges must also be discouraging purchases by persons outside the US and thereby affect exports? Maybe UPS will put themselves out of business? Also this current item took at least six (6) days to arrive at our door from the 49858 in Michigan USA, just across the border from Canada! It was invoiced on August 15th, shipped on August 17th and arrived late on August 23rd! That's seven to eight days. Glad it wasn't something urgent! I'd hate to have a computer or a truck out of service for, in effect, a week! And then have to pay weekend overtime for someone to install the material? Hell; don't buy American! We have had fewer charges shipping to/from the US and also to the Middle East using Fed-Ex, whom we find fast, two (2) to three (3) days door to door, from here in Eastern Canada to countries such as Bahrain/Dubai etc. Note about Fed-Ex. We handed a 60 lb. package to our neighbour who works for Fed-Ex on a Monday night. He shipped it to the Middle East the next (Tuesday) morning to a Time zone seven to eight hours ahead of here. My contact was pleased to get a phone call advising that a package had arrived for them, during the Thursday afternoon. Total shipping time was of order of 56 hours; no brokerage fee! That package contained, among other things, new motorcycle parts which had originated in the USA! No subscriber to any conspiracy theory; but it's almost as if someone is trying to disrupt trade between our two countries, by putting up various barriers, adding charges, tariffs etc. All these do is make things cost more and discourage business and exports. In fact just for the heck of it since the US purchased items above were better performance parts for a Japanese vehicle we are refurbishing, we'll just find out what the equivalent cost would have been to bring them in from Japan! We brought in an engine from Japan a couple of years ago and the cost was quite reasonable IIRC. Terry Article: 321441 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" Subject: TRUCE! Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 16:43:28 GMT Seems that for the past couple weeks, reading/posting on this newsgroup has been an enjoyable experience -- no bashing, flames, or put-downs. But now it all seems to be flaring up again. I'm not going to name names, or nicknames, or handles, or anything else -- but simply make the comment that there's more than one contributor -- apparently several -- who seem to take pleasure in finding opportunities to put others down. Aside from the one comment I'm making now, I'm making a point to stay silent about this. If anyone -- no matter who it is -- asks or answers a question related to old radios that warrants a contribution of my own, I'll answer in due process. If anyone -- no matter who it is -- starts throwing flames or bashing others, I'm out of the conversation. I suggest others act the same way; if we do this newsgroup will be, as it is usually, an enjoyable place to visit. Many many years ago, when I was still in elementary school, I found myself getting picked on relentlessly by other classmates -- and of course it got me quite upset. It took a long time to learn but, I eventually discovered the reason I was picked on in the first place was that I got mad, and this was rather humorous to the others -- so they kept it up. When I quit responding, it was no longer worth the effort for the others. I would suspect that most of us have graduated from elementary school. Let's act accordingly. Remember, if someone else started it, and you responded, you're the one who's responsible for keeping it going. If we all stop, hopefully the trashing will stop for lack of fuel. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 321442 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <1124857387.087991.173380@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124860883.606419.262980@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124873530.489706.307340@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <_UYOe.5103$HR5.1916@tornado.socal.rr.com> <1124883688.614924.45540@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124889395.185109.229590@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: My first Catalin!!! Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 15:55:25 -0400 Skippy You're making it into more than a one person campaign. Article: 321443 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Randy or Sherry Guttery Subject: Re: Sound and almost a picture.... References: <1124844236.328716.243690@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <6d6dnR87vqgvQZbeRVn-3A@giganews.com> <1124850992.060179.66670@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124868838.374438.214070@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1124868902.731563.68140@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124883888.582070.175980@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124884997.532671.287360@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124911718.473055.254110@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 15:27:19 -0500 tim87529@gmail.com wrote: > Here are the voltages for the video section of the TV set: > > voltages - what I measured/what the schematic says > The power supply voltage was a little higher than usual, with the 155v > line at 180v and the 295v line at 320v. Hmmmm primary B+ is only 8% high - that is reasonable with today's AC line voltages... and lack of full loading. And lack of loading probably accounts for the greater voltage in the secondary B+ (~14%). So looks like your B+ are probably OK, It would be nice to scope them to be sure there isn't a lot of ripple. barring a scope - use an AC voltmeter with a .1mfd 400V cap in series with one lead to measure the 155V line. Should be less than a volt - but may be around that with the light loading... Ripple can play havoc with AGC, etc. (more on AGC in a bit). > Horizontal output, 6BQ6: > > Control grid -39v/-25v > Screen grid 131v/145v > Plate N/A > Cathode 5v/9.4v You have the CRT disconnected - so it's not loaded - and the high (negative) bias would tend to throttle the plate current - and the lower cathode voltage indicates that... probably ok for now. > Horizontal AFC, 1/2 6SN7: > > Grid -42/-22 > Plate 360v/285v > Cathode -8.4v/5.5v > > Horizontal Osc, 1/2 6SN7: > > Grid -119v/-84v > Plate 240v/200v again - throttled a bit... > 6K6, Vert. Mult. / Vert. Output: > > Control grid -52v/-29v > Screen grid 340v/285v > Plate: N/A Throttled a lot - like the yoke disconnected? > 1/2 12AU7, Vertical Multiplier: > > Grid -120v/-48v > Plate 120v/155v > > 1/2 12AU7, Sync Amp: > > Grid 0v/0v > Plate 72v/60v > > 1/2 6AN8, Sync Separator: > > Grid -14v/-3v > Plate 26v/22v > > 1/2 6AN8, Video Amp: > > Control grid 4.4v/4.4v > Screen grid 120v/100v > Plate 71v/85v > Cathode 5.5v/5.3v Again - fairly close considering the high (#2) B+ > 6C4, Video Output - I believe these readings are off due to the CRT > being disconnected.: > > Grid -7v/0v > Plate .01v/245v > Cathode .01v/10v yeah. > 6CB6, 3rd video IF: > > Control grid 0v/0v > Screen grid 170v/150v > Plate 170v?/150v > Cathode 0v/2.1v Hmmmm 0V cathode--- Tube cut clear off (or close to it)? Hmmm bears looking around this circuit - check components, connections, tube pin/socket, etc. > 6CB6, 2nd Video IF. All voltages for this tube taken from the supressor > grid except the voltage for the supressor grid.: > > Control grid -1.5v/-1.2v > Screen grid 148v/135v > Supressor grid 140v/140v > Plate 150v/135v > Cathode .26v/.3v > > 6CF6, 1st Video IF: > > Control grid -.7v/-.4v > Screen grid 160v/130v > Plate 160v/130v > Cathode .9v/.9v Back to reasonable... Check that last IF stage... check the agc to it (if it is a controlled stage - I'm not looking at a schematic). > Also, please take the flame war somewhere else. I can here to ask for > help with my TV set, not to have the thread hijacked by people who have > a bone to pick with each other. yeah. for once were doing some real radio stuff here... Village Idiot not welcome. Back to radio... Several things you've mentioned makes me wonder - have you cleaned all the controls (including the pots on the chassis)? A very noisy AGC pot could be doing what you've noted; and several noisy pots and connections (tube pins in sockets) could make all manner of trouble... which would be intermittent as all get out... Keep at it! best regards... -- randy guttery A Tender Tale - a page dedicated to those Ships and Crews so vital to the United States Silent Service: http://tendertale.com Article: 321444 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Contact Cleaner recommended by HP Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 22:02:51 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: Remember them? The company that used to make top-notch gear? I happened to be searching thru a Hewlett-Packard manaul from 1994 and came across this: CLEANING SOLUTION Hewlett-Packard recommends using either of two cleaning solutions on printed circuit (PC) board edge connectors. For best cleaning results, we recommend an ammonium hydroxide solution (NH4OH, 29.5% NH3 by weight). But, a concentrated solution of ammonia requires the use of gloves, eye goggles, and proper ventilation. The second recommendation is an 80:20 solution of isopropyl alcohol and water (IPA/H2O). This should serve as a satisfactory cleaner where one would not want to use ammonium hydroxide. This came from the service guide for a QA-100 Quality Adviser, a digital processing amplifier for video. Not that I've whipped up any solutions (gotta luv that precise 29.5%) and tried it, but there you have it. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 321445 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <1124920720.301186.186950@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: TRUCE! Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 18:02:08 -0400 "Steven" wrote in message news:1124920720.301186.186950@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... > That's fine, I'm sick of it too, but I'm tired of "this other party" Skippy, the problem is YOU. You made your own bed. Article: 321446 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: Sound and almost a picture.... Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 07:11:56 +0900 Message-ID: References: <1124844236.328716.243690@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <6d6dnR87vqgvQZbeRVn-3A@giganews.com> <1124850992.060179.66670@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124868838.374438.214070@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1124868902.731563.68140@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124883888.582070.175980@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124884997.532671.287360@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124911718.473055.254110@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124919030.955097.164830@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> wrote in message news:1124919030.955097.164830@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Thanks for the really informative reply! > > I kind of figured that the voltages would be a bit whacky without the > yoke or CRT connected and you pretty much confirmed it. > > I have yet to clean anything in this TV set but it sounds like a > logical step to take. Time to get out the De-Oxit.... > > While I'm in there I'll reflow the solder in all the connections I made > just in case a cold solder joint or loose connection is present. > > The 3rd IF was kind of buried in the set and a bit difficult to prod > and take measurements from. I'm going to redo the measurements there > and if the results are the same I'll do some troubleshooting around > that tube. Your AGC voltages (because the AGC is horizontal pulse gated, off the flyback) will be erroneous with the yoke and CRT disconnected, as they are parts of the flyback's tuned circuit. As a TV tech I had a test jig in the shop, but that's not always economical for the hobbyist, so about all you can do to get accurate measurements is to make extension cables for the yoke and CRT, or (and this is never a good idea) remove them from the cabinet and set them up on the bench where they can be connected to the chassis.. Article: 321447 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Shipping from Canada to US? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 22:57:30 GMT In article , tsanford@nf.sympatico.ca says... > > > >it's almost as if someone is trying to disrupt trade between our two >countries, by putting up various barriers, adding charges, tariffs etc. All >these do is make things cost more and discourage business and exports. >Terry > > NEVER NEVER EVER USE UPS TO SHIP TO CANADA... Post Office is the only way to go that I know of... yes they still hose you Canadians... but not near what UPS does to you... and it IS a Canadian Problem this HST Tax and other taxes imposed by Canadians on USA imports.... don't know of ANY taxes that are charged to USA resisdents on Incoming from Canada?.. John k9uwa Article: 321448 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: TRUCE! From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1124921226.542855.233960@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 23:02:10 GMT In article <1124921226.542855.233960@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, ManyRumours@lycos.com says... > > >Sorry Mr. Bertini, several of you built it. > No Skippy it is U that is the real problem.... yes a couple of guys have begun seriously picking on you each time you raise your screwed up head.... but trust me... the rest of us all feel the same way... you can look up the last 100 or so Skippy Posts and there won't be more than one or two of them that had any contribution to the thread.... just drivel... John k9uwa Article: 321449 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Adam Stouffer Subject: Re: WANTED: Vintage Tektronix Equipement References: <1124732720.799840.70380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1124740778.330589.99030@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <287Pe.2916$k92.2274@trndny05> Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 23:10:54 GMT Bret Ludwig wrote: > The old Tek scopes are either too much work to keep going, or have > mostly been used so heavily they are no longer usable. There are no > more parts for DESIRABLE Tek scopes! Tek has not made an actual > oscilloscope in nearly ten years and the last ones (the TAS series) > were crude and nearly unusable. > Hehe I had one and thought about trying to get it back into shape for audio work. Then I saw the sticker on the plugin with a calibration date due for 1965. $200-300 on ebay will get you something decent. In fact if you ebayed all the ceramic terminal strips in a tek scope you could probably pay for a newer one. Adam Article: 321450 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 19:19:52 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: How to Use an Ammmeter [Ampmeter?] References: Message-ID: Williams wrote: > > Now, the digital thingy I picked up for 20 bucks, new, ebay, has a > setting for 20 amps. I ain't gonna, but I presume I could plug a power line > cut from a radio into the wall, and attach leads to each end where the cut > was made--- without explosion, fire, and sudden death. > This last is not entirely w/o merit, inasmuch as I calculate a 1300W > space heater has to pull 11 Amps and much more would pop a circuit breaker > [famous last words]. One of my youthful stoopid stunts was to take an old auto ammeter and hook it directly to the wall outlet to see "how many amps it had". If you think about this for half a second Jimmy you'll understand what the result would be. My meter, your meter, most any high-current ammeter, is basically a dead short resistance wise to the 120 volts ac. You can expect it to pull maybe hundreds of amps for a brief instant until it blows all to hell and leaves you holding a black thing. Clue...the space heater has some appreciable resistance so it only heats up. Ohms Law again. -Bill M Article: 321451 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 19:25:05 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Shipping from Canada to US? References: Message-ID: <7934$430d01d5$4232bdf9$25980@COQUI.NET> John Goller, k9uwa wrote: > other taxes imposed by Canadians on USA imports.... don't know of > ANY taxes that are charged to USA resisdents on Incoming from Canada?.. The deal is that US Customs CAN charge taxes if they feel like it. And they CAN oblige UPS (or whoever) to broker these things. Fortunately they don't, at least not with small parcels. The only time I had to pay any import duty on anything from Canada was on a Gem Quad ham antenna. It was shipped via truck and I got socked with brokerage fees and duty. -Bill M Article: 321452 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: How to Use an Ammmeter [Ampmeter?] References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 19:42:41 -0400 Your reading will be wrong if you plug the meter into an empty tube socket. Without that tube you'll draw more curren than normal. The best way is make up an extension cord with a plug on one end and clip leads on the other. Use this to connect to your radio cord, inserting the AC amp meter in series with one side. Your initial reading will be only the current pulled by the tubes. As they heat up, B+ current will be added to that. If you want just the tube current, break the fil string anywhere in the string and insert the AC amp meter. Ken Williams wrote: > I understand the ammeter needs to be in series in order to measure. > That means [small brain gets busy] I can pull a series tube that has > filaments at pins 2 & 7, shove a lead into each pinhole and voila! > Or, use a top-of-chassis tube socket adapter, numbered. > Now, the digital thingy I picked up for 20 bucks, new, ebay, has a > setting for 20 amps. I ain't gonna, but I presume I could plug a power line > cut from a radio into the wall, and attach leads to each end where the cut > was made--- without explosion, fire, and sudden death. > This last is not entirely w/o merit, inasmuch as I calculate a 1300W > space heater has to pull 11 Amps and much more would pop a circuit breaker > [famous last words]. > > > Article: 321453 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mike Schultz" References: <1124857387.087991.173380@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124903183.271233.197680@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: My first Catalin!!! Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 23:56:11 GMT The front piece is definitely Catalin. No doubt about it. It was originally a very dark green color with white swirl. I have a vague recollection of having seen an original ad for one of these, but I don't recall it saying anything about the material. In fact, most of the ads I have seen for Catalin radios never mentioned the "C" word unless, of course, the cases were actually made by the Catalin Corporation. A number of companies made the same material and called it by their own preferred trade name (e.g. Fiberlon, Marblette, Opalon, and yes, even Bakelite). -- Mike Schultz wrote in message news:1124903183.271233.197680@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > I'm not sure you're right Mark. The front panel is a very thick > material, nearly 1/2", and it does have a dull thud to it. Underneath > the tuning knob I can see into the material where it is rough around > the hole, it is marbled all the way thru and has the expected > translucency of Catalin. > > This RCA also dates from about '47 and I've seen several references to > it that describe it as Catalin. The Riders for it calls the case a > "Jewel Box" case. > > However, neither you or I can prove it either way, unless someone can > come up with an ad for this radio that describes the material. > > Terry > From stephanie-at-gordsven-dot-com Fri Aug 26 17:58:29 EDT 2005 Article: 321454 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Stephanie Weil Subject: Re: Contact Cleaner recommended by HP References: <1124925969.126019.29380@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Reply-To: stephanie-at-gordsven-dot-com Message-ID: User-Agent: slrn/0.9.7.4 (Linux) Lines: 12 Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 23:55:08 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 66.65.49.245 X-Complaints-To: abuse@rr.com X-Trace: twister.nyc.rr.com 1124927708 66.65.49.245 (Wed, 24 Aug 2005 19:55:08 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 19:55:08 EDT Organization: Road Runner - NYC Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!canoe.uoregon.edu!cyclone1.gnilink.net!gnilink.net!cyclone.rdc-nyc.rr.com!news-out.nyc.rr.com!twister.nyc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:321454 In article <1124925969.126019.29380@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, Steven wrote: > How many gold plated traces do I find? I assume it will do some bit of Open up one of your computers some-day. The traces that jut out on little tabs designed to stick into sockets on other boards are normally gold-plated. -- Stephanie Weil New York City, U.S.A. Article: 321455 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Georg Richter" <520066970381-0001@T-Online.de> Subject: Re: Sangamo Weston Model E772 (Type 4) analyzer Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 02:16:39 +0200 Message-ID: References: <430bb88c$0$22952$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader01.plus.net> Martin Crossley wrote: > Georg Richter wrote: > > The Sangamo Weston Model E772 (Type 4) analyzer > > Any idea about the meaning of "A.M.10S/13017"? > > > Hello Georg, > I think > A.M. 10S/13017 > (A^M?) > =(British) Air Ministry (RAF) type number. > (since 10E/xxxx is common for valves, often = CVxxxx) > Martin. Martin, thanks for your input. Seems to be exempted from military service by the British Forces in Germany. Kind Regards, Georg Article: 321456 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Rip In Speaker Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 18:15:20 -0600 Message-ID: <2497-430D0D98-128@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net> References: <1cc8b$43092a9a$4232bd3d$10116@COQUI.NET> 25. I don't have any fabric glue so I always use something else. If I was stuck with only one single way to solve a simple problem I'd ..... What happens when you run out of solder or lacquer ? or whiskey :-) Article: 321457 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Benjamaniac" Subject: Re: OT, The Total score!!! Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 18:29:02 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1124818235.037307.255650@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Bob...Terry...do either one of you collect E/M pins ?? I do. Ben "Bob in Phx" wrote in message news:VEROe.2320$sw6.1568@fed1read05... > Ok,,, this is totally off topic, but .... Williams system 3-9 (or higher I > just don't remember) used a PIA chip. The 6821. Its a 1 MHZ analog to > digital input device adapter. The monitor had 4 each in sockets. The last > time I had to buy one locally it was 14.95. I've since found them on the > net at 4.95 each...I am currently working on a system 6 Williams firepower > that is mysteriously locking solenoids. I have narrowed it down to the > 6821. So a little soldering work and since I now have the parts to finish > the firepower project,,,,,, pinball by the weekend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > > bob in phx. .. > wrote in message > news:1124818235.037307.255650@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... >> Bob, what from a monitor would work in a pinball machine???? >> Nice finds. >> >> Terry S >> (fellow pinball nut) >> > > Article: 321458 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <1cc8b$43092a9a$4232bd3d$10116@COQUI.NET> <2497-430D0D98-128@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: Rip In Speaker Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 20:42:29 -0400 "Ken G." wrote in message news:2497-430D0D98-128@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net... > 25. I don't have any fabric glue so I always use something else. If I > was stuck with only one single way to solve a simple problem I'd ..... > > What happens when you run out of solder or lacquer ? or whiskey :-) > Hi Ken I'm sure they are several good ways to mend the speaker, and likewise, several not so spiffy ways to mend a speaker.... Fabric glue works great, but I've use other stuff. You need to start a thread about lacquer and solder substitutes!!! Beer is a good sub for whiskey when drunk in copious quantities. Pete Article: 321459 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: Shipping from Canada to US? Message-ID: References: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 00:51:10 GMT Just to clarify: GST, and HST, which is simply federal GST "harmonized" with the applicable provincial sales tax, are applicable to goods and services of Canadian origin and to imported goods alike. It is not really a "duty" in the traditional sense, and it would apply to any and all imports of goods that would be taxable if they were made in Canada. It is really a form of value-added tax, and should not be viewed as discriminating against imports. And it is applicable to imports from all countries. If I buy a 12AQ7 from a dealer in Calgary, I will pay 7% GST. If I buy one from the USA, I will pay 7% GST on the tube, and on the shipping. I may still save in the end, if the tube is significantly cheaper Stateside. More so if I buy a quantity. Gordon Richmond Article: 321460 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: How to Use an Ammmeter [Ampmeter?] Message-ID: References: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 01:01:11 GMT Aha! Another user of the dread "Death Cord" :>) Useful thing to have around. And its name is not entirely undeserved. One does have to be careful. Really, really careful. Gordon Richmond Article: 321461 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: <1cc8b$43092a9a$4232bd3d$10116@COQUI.NET> <2497-430D0D98-128@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: Rip In Speaker Message-ID: <1124931863.7ee9e17b84e26bc7dbd09a4d88762d91@teranews> Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 20:04:18 -0500 " Uncle Peter" wrote in message news:Zt8Pe.854$mH.605@fed1read07... > You need to start a thread about lacquer and solder substitutes!!! > Beer is a good sub for whiskey when drunk in copious quantities. I'd call it an acceptable sub, not a good one. Application of a sufficient quantity of beer to adequately compensate for the effects of whiskey will tend to create gas problems.. Better subs might be Southern Comfort, brandy or cognac, to taste. Personally I make sure to keep large quantities of whiskey on hand at all times, to ensure substitution is never necessary. :) Off-topically yours, paul Article: 321462 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Randy or Sherry Guttery Subject: Re: Simpson VOM References: <4uydnZ2dnZ3ihOmYnZ2dnULgm96dnZ2dRVn-0J2dnZ0@bresnan.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 20:37:53 -0500 Warren Weber wrote: > Randy. I thanked you in a previeous post. Warren I confess I didn't see that - however looking back at the archives I do indeed see where you thanked me in advance. I hereby humbly and genuinely apologize for the error/oversight and falsely besmirching of your reputation. back in the corner with me... -- randy guttery A Tender Tale - a page dedicated to those Ships and Crews so vital to the United States Silent Service: http://tendertale.com Article: 321463 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: How to Use an Ammmeter [Ampmeter?] References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 21:49:59 -0400 That's why I built two meter jacks into a plastic outlet box. Plug the meter into the jacks, the appliance into the outlet, don't touch anything with your tongue, you will live through it. Ken Gordon Richmond wrote: > Aha! Another user of the dread "Death Cord" :>) > > Useful thing to have around. And its name is not entirely undeserved. > One does have to be careful. Really, really careful. > > Gordon Richmond Article: 321464 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <430BD1B3.EF5863CA@flash.net> From: Bill & Val McKeown Subject: Mystery Radio Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 01:50:20 GMT When I was a kid, a relative gave me a radio that I fixed up and had on my desk in college.  I am really perplexed that I can't remember the brand and have never seen another one like it!  I do remember the following:
It was translucent red - very red.
It was about a 10 inches wide by 5 inches deep by 8 inches high.
The pilot light made the cabinet glow beautifully through the red (Plaskon?)
It had a nice bright tuning eye that I think was located near the top middle.
The tubes were '30's types.
It had a warm-line-cord ballast.
I'm pretty sure it was a TRF.
It had the volume control that changes the cathode resistor of the first tube and shunts the antenna coil.

Anybody have a guess as to what it might have been?

If I ever see another one like it, I'm sure I will recognize it and I will simply have to have it!!

Bill McKeown Article: 321465 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Randy or Sherry Guttery Subject: Re: Simpson VOM References: <4uydnZ2dnZ3ihOmYnZ2dnULgm96dnZ2dRVn-0J2dnZ0@bresnan.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 20:58:21 -0500 this incident reminds me of an appropriate cartoon... http://www.mississippi.net/~comcents/sometimes.jpg I'll hang this in the corner to remind myself... -- randy guttery A Tender Tale - a page dedicated to those Ships and Crews so vital to the United States Silent Service: http://tendertale.com Article: 321466 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <430D26F8.F3533BDB@optonline.net> From: Sal Brisindi Subject: Re: OT: Mercedes Harmonic Balancer "Campaign" OT References: <1124932231.652640.91400@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 22:03:36 -0400 Peter, Don't feel bad, my harmonic balancer broke on my 1992 Ford Tempo too.... :-) Regards, Sal Brisindi Peter Wieck wrote: > Mercedes Benz has an open campaign to replace Harmonic Balancers for > certain of its vehicles, mostly those with the 3.2 liter V6. What > happens is that the balancer will fail without warning, causing the > serpentine belt to sieze and often stopping the engine altogether. This > will then cause loss of steering and braking power (at least). > Typically it happens with vehicles with more than seventy-five (75,000) > thousand miles on them, but can happen at any age or mileage to those > vehicles affected. > > Mercedes has known of this defect for a while and initiated the > campaign in April of this year. As of this date, they have not notified > any individual owners, nor do they appear to intend to do so. > > How do I know this? > > That they fail: Coming off the downstroke of the Verrazano Narrows > Bridge from Brooklyn into Staten Island. Luckily I was going less than > 30 mph (just after the tolls) and was more-or-less accidentally pointed > towards a shoulder. I used a sloped embankment to help me stop the > vehicle, my 230 lbs on the pedal was not quite enough. That all the > other drivers of a Tuesday afternoon missed me illustrates the concept > of a guardian angel. That it did not happen some 40 minutes earlier > when I was on the Long Island Expressway, or 10 minutes later when I > would have been on the Goethals Bridge suggest that this same Angel was > a true professional. The belt siezed when the balancer broke loose, > stopping the engine cold. > > That there is a recall: When I arrived at the dealer in Edison, NJ, > their service advisor stated that the damage would be repaired at no > cost (it also took out the upper oil pan, damaged the fan and minor > other stuff). > > That this is not a "recent" issue: When I spoke to the Mercedes > Customer Service group. They also stated that they had no intention of > making the recall official "at this time". > > So, those of you who drive Mercedes vehicles equipped with a serpentine > belt and an harmonic balancer, get in touch with your dealership ASAP > and check its status re: the "campaign". Were it to fail at-speed with > your wife or child (or yourself if not large and strong) driving, the > vehicle would be uncontrollable. Not a fun situation. This happens > WITHOUT WARNING. Warn friends of yours who also drive such vehicles. > > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA Article: 321467 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <430D286A.5118FD98@optonline.net> From: Sal Brisindi Subject: Re: How to Use an Ammmeter [Ampmeter?] References: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 22:09:46 -0400 About 15 years ago I had a Radio Shack digital meter with a blown fuse. I did what any red blooded American would do, wrap foil around the fuse.... until I had it on the wrong setting and wanted to measured the voltage from an outlet. Well, I think every trace on the circuit board inside the meter disintegrated, no trace to be found.. kind of reminds me connecting a neon bulb without its resistor in an outlet.. Sal Brisindi -ex- wrote: > Williams wrote: > > > > > Now, the digital thingy I picked up for 20 bucks, new, ebay, has a > > setting for 20 amps. I ain't gonna, but I presume I could plug a power line > > cut from a radio into the wall, and attach leads to each end where the cut > > was made--- without explosion, fire, and sudden death. > > This last is not entirely w/o merit, inasmuch as I calculate a 1300W > > space heater has to pull 11 Amps and much more would pop a circuit breaker > > [famous last words]. > > One of my youthful stoopid stunts was to take an old auto ammeter and > hook it directly to the wall outlet to see "how many amps it had". > > If you think about this for half a second Jimmy you'll understand what > the result would be. My meter, your meter, most any high-current > ammeter, is basically a dead short resistance wise to the 120 volts ac. > You can expect it to pull maybe hundreds of amps for a brief instant > until it blows all to hell and leaves you holding a black thing. > > Clue...the space heater has some appreciable resistance so it only heats > up. Ohms Law again. > > -Bill M Article: 321468 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" Subject: Replace 30-year-old e-caps? Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 21:11:35 -0500 Message-ID: <430d27e3$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net> Hi all So here I am recapping this Philco Model C car radio from a '34 Nash. Obviously has been worked on relatively recently. Speaker is a replacement; there's some newer wiring. The radio actually worked very well on first power-up. Lots of paper and Micamold caps inside though...... So I find the can that holds the filter caps, and to my surprise when I unbolted it found inside two "Herald" brand caps. Correct value, date stamped 1976. Keep in mind this isn't my radio; it's a paid repair job. I haven't pulled the caps to check for leakage. If I do that and find them acceptable, should I replace these nearly 30-year-old caps, or should they be expected to give years of good service yet? Any thoughts? Thanks much Paul Article: 321469 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: How to Use an Ammmeter [Ampmeter?] From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: <39aPe.278272$_o.49943@attbi_s71> Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 02:36:47 GMT In article , richmond@telusplanet.net says... > > >Aha! Another user of the dread "Death Cord" :>) > >Useful thing to have around. And its name is not entirely undeserved. >One does have to be careful. Really, really careful. > >Gordon Richmond I call it my "Non-OSHA Approved" AC Line Cord!... bare gator clips on the open ends.... I DID make each of those ends different lengths so that just pitching the thing on the bench.. usually it doesn't spark and pop the breaker!... John k9uwa Article: 321470 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Mystery Radio From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <430BD1B3.EF5863CA@flash.net> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 02:41:39 GMT In article <430BD1B3.EF5863CA@flash.net>, wilmac@flash.net says... > > >

Bill McKeown > please turn off your HTML when posting to a newsgroup... makes it easier for us to read... Eye tube.. that places the radio at 1938 to 1941 age so NO its not a TRF radio...has to be superhet. warm line cord... early version of AA5 or AA6 set.. tubes probably something like 43 and 25z5 the others 6 volters plus the linecord to eat up the rest of the series string.. John k9uwa Article: 321471 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Rip In Speaker From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1cc8b$43092a9a$4232bd3d$10116@COQUI.NET> <2497-430D0D98-128@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <5gaPe.275651$x96.45202@attbi_s72> Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 02:44:17 GMT In article <2497-430D0D98-128@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net>, goodguyy@webtv.net says... > > > >What happens when you run out of solder or lacquer ? or whiskey :-) > grab the Brandy Bottle! John k9uwa Article: 321472 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Bill Turner? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: <3kaPe.278281$_o.233954@attbi_s71> Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 02:48:31 GMT In article , dmign@earthlink.net says... > > >Thanks to everyone for the replies about Bills' address. >And I too would like to know how Bill is doing. Let's hear from someone who >knows or better yet from Bill himself. > >DON Bill is back home... expect to hear from him probably tomorrow he will get his internet fired up .... John k9uwa Article: 321473 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: craigm Subject: Re: How to Use an Ammmeter [Ampmeter?] References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 21:49:43 -0500 Williams wrote: > I understand the ammeter needs to be in series in order to measure. > That means [small brain gets busy] I can pull a series tube that has > filaments at pins 2 & 7, shove a lead into each pinhole and voila! > Or, use a top-of-chassis tube socket adapter, numbered. > Now, the digital thingy I picked up for 20 bucks, new, ebay, has a > setting for 20 amps. I ain't gonna, but I presume I could plug a power line > cut from a radio into the wall, and attach leads to each end where the cut > was made--- without explosion, fire, and sudden death. > This last is not entirely w/o merit, inasmuch as I calculate a 1300W > space heater has to pull 11 Amps and much more would pop a circuit breaker > [famous last words]. > > > All the replies imply your digital meter measures AC and not DC. I don't know what you have, but if it is for DC, it won't work for AC. If you want to measure AC line currents, you can get a cheal clamp on ammeter from Home Depot or othe DIY stores and make a cord with a separated section of insulated wire so you can clamp on a single conductor. You do not need to have any unsafe, uninsulated wires to be able to measure AC currents. craigm Article: 321474 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Building a web page From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 02:51:59 GMT In article , benjamaniac@yahoo.com says... > > > I'm web page >building illerate. Does anyone know of any fool proof programs to do this >with ?? I think I'll need al the help I can get on this one. > Ben > > OK Ben ... did you get it up and running yet? John k9uwa Article: 321475 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: Sound and almost a picture.... Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 12:20:26 +0900 Message-ID: References: <1124844236.328716.243690@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <6d6dnR87vqgvQZbeRVn-3A@giganews.com> <1124850992.060179.66670@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124868838.374438.214070@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1124868902.731563.68140@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124883888.582070.175980@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124884997.532671.287360@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124911718.473055.254110@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124919030.955097.164830@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124925439.525143.258620@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <1124937533.982807.265620@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> wrote in message news:1124937533.982807.265620@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... > Here's a picture of the screen. It's very dim (but the CRT isn't burnt > out or weak) and hard to photograph. As you can see, the picture fades > out. What appears to be blank screen does have a very dim picture that > can only be view when the room is completely dark. > > http://xs.to/xs.php?h=xs43&d=05344&f=100_0277.jpg > You definately have unfiltered horizontal sweep frequency getting into the control grid or cathode of the CRT. Also your horizontal sweep frequency is off by several hundred hertz. Article: 321476 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 23:27:33 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Rip In Speaker References: <1cc8b$43092a9a$4232bd3d$10116@COQUI.NET> <2497-430D0D98-128@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Ken G. wrote: > 25. I don't have any fabric glue so I always use something else. If I > was stuck with only one single way to solve a simple problem I'd ..... > > What happens when you run out of solder or lacquer ? or whiskey :-) > I go to the store and buy more. Nowhere here sells fabric glue and many other things work just as well. -Bill Article: 321477 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" Subject: Re: My first Catalin!!! Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 23:35:34 -0400 Message-ID: <11gqf4ci34bsj19@news.supernews.com> References: <1124857387.087991.173380@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124903183.271233.197680@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> > A number of companies made the same material and called it by their own > preferred trade name (e.g. Fiberlon, Marblette, Opalon, and yes, even > Bakelite). > > -- > Mike Schultz Of course, today we call that last type you mention "bakerlite" -- "Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs." regards, Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario Article: 321478 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Randy or Sherry Guttery Subject: Re: Simpson VOM References: <4uydnZ2dnZ3ihOmYnZ2dnULgm96dnZ2dRVn-0J2dnZ0@bresnan.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 23:15:12 -0500 Warren Weber wrote: > Ok. 3 lashes with a wet wash cloth. Warren Oh - please NO! No... hmm... Thank you sir- may I have another? (nose now firmly in the corner) -- randy guttery A Tender Tale - a page dedicated to those Ships and Crews so vital to the United States Silent Service: http://tendertale.com Article: 321479 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" Subject: Re: My first Catalin!!! Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 00:16:39 -0400 Message-ID: <11gqhhki748hi2e@news.supernews.com> References: <1124857387.087991.173380@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124903183.271233.197680@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:UOmdneZhlrQF3JDeRVn-qQ@comcast.com... > Well, > I could be wrong, it happened once. But, I seem to recall having > handled > this set at a show and I didnt think it was Catalin. Hmmm. > > Kris Gimmy, or Steve Turner, or any other catalin experts might know > offhand. > > Mark Oppat So, is anyone aware of a test for Catalin? -- "Give me ambiguity or give me something else!" regards, Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario Article: 321480 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" Subject: Re: My first Catalin!!! Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 00:19:03 -0400 Message-ID: <11gqhlvmpf0cmda@news.supernews.com> References: <1124857387.087991.173380@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <11gnuvsh08v624d@news.supernews.com> <1124860257.986129.63780@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> "michaeljpro" wrote in message news:1124860257.986129.63780@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... > Congrats Terry, I found one of these last year at an antique shop for a > real bargain. Someone on the group here told me the metal grill is > actually gold plated!? > Hey Frank, hope all is well. Yep, that front chunk of the radio is > catalin, a nice thick slab of it. The back is not, perhaps plaskon? Hiya, Michael, good to see you . So, how can you be sure it's Catalin? Just curious if you knew it from seeing the material, or...? -- "Happiness is a state of mind. Not happy? Change your mind." regards, Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario Article: 321481 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Randy or Sherry Guttery Subject: Re: My first Catalin!!! References: <1124857387.087991.173380@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124903183.271233.197680@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 23:25:07 -0500 (this is a general "information" post - and not a reply to any individual or individual's post, opinion, etc. - also known as - you'd think I'd learn to keep out of stuff... naw...) Anyway: Harry Poster's Radio & Television Price Guide Second Edition, page 69, left hand column, bottom entry: 54B5 - "Solitaire," 1947, deluxe portable, Catalin panel behind dial, gold plating on trim, $75. back in the corner... -- randy guttery A Tender Tale - a page dedicated to those Ships and Crews so vital to the United States Silent Service: http://tendertale.com Article: 321482 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Bob in Phx" References: <1124818235.037307.255650@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: OT, The Total score!!! Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 21:29:25 -0700 EM's,,, no I've had a few, but I normally don't... but like all things,,, if the price is right!!!! An EM got me started... I moved out at 18 and found a beat up old EM at a thrift shop for 25.00. I fixed it and we played it (very drunk) for years. I moved into the "little house" just west of ASU and didn't have room for it. In a drunken state, my pals and I decided that we missed the pin, so we decided we could fit it in the house, if it was smaller.... We hit upon the idea of using the body for a coffee table and the head as wall art. Armed with miles of cable from one of the guys who was working at an alarm company, We hung the head on the wall and created a long umbilical cord from the body on the floor, to the head on the wall. It worked great!!! You would sit at the end of the body, play pinball, drink, eat and watch TV all at once... Of course, any sane person wouldn't try this, but once you got used to tripping on the umbilical cord (covered in three full rolls of electrical tape) it was cool!!!!. I don't collect, I just fix pins for kids to play with and or help others fix theirs... Nothing like a day of board work, then have the kids come out to "test" the machine... Bob in PHX "Benjamaniac" wrote in message news:dej3ck$i7k$1@news3.infoave.net... > Bob...Terry...do either one of you collect E/M pins ?? I do. > Ben > > > "Bob in Phx" wrote in message > news:VEROe.2320$sw6.1568@fed1read05... >> Ok,,, this is totally off topic, but .... Williams system 3-9 (or higher >> I just don't remember) used a PIA chip. The 6821. Its a 1 MHZ analog to >> digital input device adapter. The monitor had 4 each in sockets. The last >> time I had to buy one locally it was 14.95. I've since found them on the >> net at 4.95 each...I am currently working on a system 6 Williams >> firepower that is mysteriously locking solenoids. I have narrowed it down >> to the 6821. So a little soldering work and since I now have the parts to >> finish the firepower project,,,,,, pinball by the weekend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >> >> bob in phx. .. >> wrote in message >> news:1124818235.037307.255650@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... >>> Bob, what from a monitor would work in a pinball machine???? >>> Nice finds. >>> >>> Terry S >>> (fellow pinball nut) >>> >> >> > > Article: 321483 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Bob in Phx" References: <1124921226.542855.233960@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: TRUCE! Message-ID: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 21:41:42 -0700 I second John's sentiment. Pure drivel. I also have say that Kill files are useless as the name is changed daily if not more. All in an attempt get attention. Just my opinion, which I am entitled to have and express!!! bob in phx "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message news:S%6Pe.304078$xm3.107500@attbi_s21... > In article <1124921226.542855.233960@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, > ManyRumours@lycos.com says... >> >> >>Sorry Mr. Bertini, several of you built it. >> > No Skippy it is U that is the real problem.... yes a couple of guys > have begun seriously picking on you each time you raise your > screwed up head.... but trust me... the rest of us all feel the > same way... you can look up the last 100 or so Skippy Posts and > there won't be more than one or two of them that had any contribution > to the thread.... just drivel... > John k9uwa > Article: 321484 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "benjamaniac" Subject: Re: Building a web page Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 23:00:27 -0600 Message-ID: References: "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message news:jnaPe.275659$x96.145069@attbi_s72... > In article , benjamaniac@yahoo.com says... > > > > > > I'm web page > >building illerate. Does anyone know of any fool proof programs to do this > >with ?? I think I'll need al the help I can get on this one. > > Ben > > > > > OK Ben ... did you get it up and running yet? > > John k9uwa > John, I'm working on it as I type this. Shouldn't be too much longer. Ben Article: 321485 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: How much is enough Skippy? [was: Re: Contact Cleaner recommended From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1124929119.200257.311480@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1124934852.220362.194950@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <3HaPe.4720$Q82.1566@tornado.socal.rr.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 05:12:52 GMT In article , arc5@ix.netcom.com says... > > >I vote to keep him; >As long as he's here, people aren't ragging on *me*.... heh heh... > Nope Dave is OK... Skippy should GO AWAY this WILL BE my LAST post about and TO Skippy.... After this..... its total silence to and about... suggest that others do the same John k9uwa Article: 321486 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: Sound and almost a picture.... Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 22:00:08 -0700 Message-ID: <12354-430D5058-15@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net> References: Tim, A question - have you got the aquadag (conductive coating on the CRT bell) grounded to the chassis? If not, you can get some really wild effects mimicking sync problems. It can also the produce the half-screen horizontal blanking effect you have there. Also, how have you verifed the CRT has good emission? It sure looks weak in the photo. Bill(oc) Article: 321487 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Scott W. Harvey Subject: Re: OT: Mercedes Harmonic Balancer "Campaign" OT Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 21:54:38 -0700 Message-ID: <5lhqg1t6oo3uib4le2q48idomdgbrpflpo@4ax.com> References: <1124932231.652640.91400@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <430D26F8.F3533BDB@optonline.net> Hmmm.....This would have never happened in the old days. It almost sounds like Daimler's merger with Chrysler is slowly poisoning the well. The only reason it hasn't been publicized is that no one has been killed yet. Peter's account reminds me of what happened to me about 15 years ago in my '75 MBZ 230. What a great car.....excellent handling, plenty of interior room, leather seats and decent climate control and sound system. A bit gutless, but I could do 90 mph on the freeway with it, so I didn't care. I loved that car, thought I would keep it forever. One day, without warning, on a very narrow, windy, cliff-laden mountain road, the brake pedal went to the floor. By the grace of God, Allah, Buddha or whatever, the car was going uphill at the time and there was a looong driveway that went steeply uphill less than 1/8th mile away (one of only two uphill driveways on that 15+ mile stretch of road). I was able to stall the car and have it coast uphill to a stop. I had the car towed to my mechanic, who couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes. I had him do complete brake job anyway, but my distrust of the car from that day forward destroyed any romantic notions I had about keeping it for a long time. It was gone in less than six months after that. The guy who bought it from me has kept in touch and has never had any problems with it. What happened to Peter would make my pants go brown....I'm not sure I could keep a car that had such a catastrophic failure, especially considering that I now have three kids. -Scott On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 22:03:36 -0400, Sal Brisindi wrote: >Peter, >Don't feel bad, my harmonic balancer broke on my 1992 Ford Tempo too.... >:-) > >Regards, >Sal Brisindi > > > >Peter Wieck wrote: > >> Mercedes Benz has an open campaign to replace Harmonic Balancers for >> certain of its vehicles, mostly those with the 3.2 liter V6. What >> happens is that the balancer will fail without warning, causing the >> serpentine belt to sieze and often stopping the engine altogether. This >> will then cause loss of steering and braking power (at least). >> Typically it happens with vehicles with more than seventy-five (75,000) >> thousand miles on them, but can happen at any age or mileage to those >> vehicles affected. >> >> Mercedes has known of this defect for a while and initiated the >> campaign in April of this year. As of this date, they have not notified >> any individual owners, nor do they appear to intend to do so. >> >> How do I know this? >> >> That they fail: Coming off the downstroke of the Verrazano Narrows >> Bridge from Brooklyn into Staten Island. Luckily I was going less than >> 30 mph (just after the tolls) and was more-or-less accidentally pointed >> towards a shoulder. I used a sloped embankment to help me stop the >> vehicle, my 230 lbs on the pedal was not quite enough. That all the >> other drivers of a Tuesday afternoon missed me illustrates the concept >> of a guardian angel. That it did not happen some 40 minutes earlier >> when I was on the Long Island Expressway, or 10 minutes later when I >> would have been on the Goethals Bridge suggest that this same Angel was >> a true professional. The belt siezed when the balancer broke loose, >> stopping the engine cold. >> >> That there is a recall: When I arrived at the dealer in Edison, NJ, >> their service advisor stated that the damage would be repaired at no >> cost (it also took out the upper oil pan, damaged the fan and minor >> other stuff). >> >> That this is not a "recent" issue: When I spoke to the Mercedes >> Customer Service group. They also stated that they had no intention of >> making the recall official "at this time". >> >> So, those of you who drive Mercedes vehicles equipped with a serpentine >> belt and an harmonic balancer, get in touch with your dealership ASAP >> and check its status re: the "campaign". Were it to fail at-speed with >> your wife or child (or yourself if not large and strong) driving, the >> vehicle would be uncontrollable. Not a fun situation. This happens >> WITHOUT WARNING. Warn friends of yours who also drive such vehicles. >> >> Peter Wieck >> Wyncote, PA DO NOT REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE AT THE EMAIL ADDRESS ABOVE! Instead, go to the following web page to get my real email address: http://member.newsguy.com/~polezi/scottsaddy.htm (This has been done because I am sick of SPAMMERS making my email unusable) Thousands of vintage radio schematics available at The Schematic Bank: http://techpreservation.dyndns.org/schematics/ Archive of Alt.Binaries.Pictures.Radio postings: http://techpreservation.dyndns.org/abpr/ Universal Schematic Locator-finds schematics in Rider, Beitman, and Sams: http://techpreservation.dyndns.org/USL_FILES/uslpage.htm Article: 321488 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Bob in Phx" References: <1124910763.134449.205110@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: OT, The Total score!!! Message-ID: <8PcPe.2513$sw6.411@fed1read05> Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 22:38:10 -0700 Terry, Its a 5245l with the 5253a plug in. Here is a link to a picture. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HP-5245L-Electronic-Counter_W0QQitemZ7540691803QQcategoryZ25401QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/hp5245l.htm If you or anyone is interested, please email me directly... Love to trade!!!! bob in phx wrote in message news:1124910763.134449.205110@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... > Bob, tell me about the nixie tube counter! > > Terry. > Article: 321489 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: <1124932231.652640.91400@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <430D26F8.F3533BDB@optonline.net> <5lhqg1t6oo3uib4le2q48idomdgbrpflpo@4ax.com> Subject: Re: OT: Mercedes Harmonic Balancer "Campaign" OT Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 06:05:25 GMT Would this include a 1996 diesel? Omer P.S. A better name for Daimler-Chrysler is, "Chry-cedes"! "Scott W. Harvey" wrote in message news:5lhqg1t6oo3uib4le2q48idomdgbrpflpo@4ax.com... > Hmmm.....This would have never happened in the old days. It almost > sounds like Daimler's merger with Chrysler is slowly poisoning the > well. > > The only reason it hasn't been publicized is that no one has been > killed yet. > > Peter's account reminds me of what happened to me about 15 years ago > in my '75 MBZ 230. What a great car.....excellent handling, plenty of > interior room, leather seats and decent climate control and sound > system. A bit gutless, but I could do 90 mph on the freeway with it, > so I didn't care. I loved that car, thought I would keep it forever. > One day, without warning, on a very narrow, windy, cliff-laden > mountain road, the brake pedal went to the floor. By the grace of God, > Allah, Buddha or whatever, the car was going uphill at the time and > there was a looong driveway that went steeply uphill less than 1/8th > mile away (one of only two uphill driveways on that 15+ mile stretch > of road). I was able to stall the car and have it coast uphill to a > stop. I had the car towed to my mechanic, who couldn't find anything > wrong with the brakes. I had him do complete brake job anyway, but my > distrust of the car from that day forward destroyed any romantic > notions I had about keeping it for a long time. It was gone in less > than six months after that. The guy who bought it from me has kept in > touch and has never had any problems with it. > > What happened to Peter would make my pants go brown....I'm not sure I > could keep a car that had such a catastrophic failure, especially > considering that I now have three kids. > > -Scott > > > On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 22:03:36 -0400, Sal Brisindi > wrote: > >>Peter, >>Don't feel bad, my harmonic balancer broke on my 1992 Ford Tempo too.... >>:-) >> >>Regards, >>Sal Brisindi >> >> >> >>Peter Wieck wrote: >> >>> Mercedes Benz has an open campaign to replace Harmonic Balancers for >>> certain of its vehicles, mostly those with the 3.2 liter V6. What >>> happens is that the balancer will fail without warning, causing the >>> serpentine belt to sieze and often stopping the engine altogether. This >>> will then cause loss of steering and braking power (at least). >>> Typically it happens with vehicles with more than seventy-five (75,000) >>> thousand miles on them, but can happen at any age or mileage to those >>> vehicles affected. >>> >>> Mercedes has known of this defect for a while and initiated the >>> campaign in April of this year. As of this date, they have not notified >>> any individual owners, nor do they appear to intend to do so. >>> >>> How do I know this? >>> >>> That they fail: Coming off the downstroke of the Verrazano Narrows >>> Bridge from Brooklyn into Staten Island. Luckily I was going less than >>> 30 mph (just after the tolls) and was more-or-less accidentally pointed >>> towards a shoulder. I used a sloped embankment to help me stop the >>> vehicle, my 230 lbs on the pedal was not quite enough. That all the >>> other drivers of a Tuesday afternoon missed me illustrates the concept >>> of a guardian angel. That it did not happen some 40 minutes earlier >>> when I was on the Long Island Expressway, or 10 minutes later when I >>> would have been on the Goethals Bridge suggest that this same Angel was >>> a true professional. The belt siezed when the balancer broke loose, >>> stopping the engine cold. >>> >>> That there is a recall: When I arrived at the dealer in Edison, NJ, >>> their service advisor stated that the damage would be repaired at no >>> cost (it also took out the upper oil pan, damaged the fan and minor >>> other stuff). >>> >>> That this is not a "recent" issue: When I spoke to the Mercedes >>> Customer Service group. They also stated that they had no intention of >>> making the recall official "at this time". >>> >>> So, those of you who drive Mercedes vehicles equipped with a serpentine >>> belt and an harmonic balancer, get in touch with your dealership ASAP >>> and check its status re: the "campaign". Were it to fail at-speed with >>> your wife or child (or yourself if not large and strong) driving, the >>> vehicle would be uncontrollable. Not a fun situation. This happens >>> WITHOUT WARNING. Warn friends of yours who also drive such vehicles. >>> >>> Peter Wieck >>> Wyncote, PA > > DO NOT REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE AT THE EMAIL ADDRESS ABOVE! > Instead, go to the following web page to get my real email address: > http://member.newsguy.com/~polezi/scottsaddy.htm > (This has been done because I am sick of SPAMMERS making my email > unusable) > > Thousands of vintage radio schematics available at The Schematic Bank: > http://techpreservation.dyndns.org/schematics/ > > Archive of Alt.Binaries.Pictures.Radio postings: > http://techpreservation.dyndns.org/abpr/ > > Universal Schematic Locator-finds schematics in Rider, Beitman, and Sams: > http://techpreservation.dyndns.org/USL_FILES/uslpage.htm Article: 321490 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: <1124801765.125266.265710@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Knobs at Kutztown Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 06:09:37 GMT Since I won't be able to make it to Kutztown, do you by chance have knobs for German radios. Perhaps, even knobs from '70 's era Grundig radios! Omer "Mike Koste" wrote in message news:1124801765.125266.265710@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... > Bring your orphans for potential on-the-spot reunions. Over 10,000 > knobs available for vintage radio/tv/ham/test equipment. Friday & > Saturday, September 16th and 17th at Renninger's in Kutztown, PA. Look > for Gobs of Knobs in Booths 321, 321A. (I'm always interested in buying > your unwanted surplus too!) > > Mike Koste > Ambler, PA > Article: 321491 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "benjamaniac" Subject: Web Page update Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 01:12:30 -0600 Message-ID: Okay guys, I really am working on that web page..I swear. I got most of it done now, except that once I previewed the page I was totally unhappy with how the photo's turned out. I think tomorrow I'm going to reshoot the pics and replace them. other than that, I THINK I'm pretty well finished. Shouldn't be too long now. Ben Article: 321492 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Larry Fowkes" References: <8MCdnX88D6DoQ1bfRVn-hA@comcast.com> <11cooflc96cdd60@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: Passing on PayPal Fees? Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 06:42:42 -0400 Message-ID: <430da16a$0$3733$2c56edd9@news.cablerocket.com> "Phil B" wrote in message news:luSdnf2zFoMQ75DeRVn-2A@comcast.com... > What the HELL gives here? Everyone is complaining about "excessive" > PayPal fees What is excessive? 3%, 2%, 1%, free? This is all ludicrous! Phil, Don't beat around the bush, how do you really feel? Just kidding, I agree that the increased sale price you are likely to get accepting Paypal is well worth a few percent. I much prefer paypal payments when I sell, quick and easy and the money is in my account in seconds. As far as getting a merchant account, I had one some years back when I owned a small business. Fees actually averaged more like 5% and getting a merchant account was not a picnic. The bank required more paper work then your average mortgage, net worth statements, tax returns, etc. Larry Fowkes Article: 321493 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Larry Fowkes" References: <430d27e3$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net> Subject: Re: Replace 30-year-old e-caps? Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 06:48:32 -0400 Message-ID: <430da2c9$0$3733$2c56edd9@news.cablerocket.com> "Paul Dietenberger" wrote in message news:430d27e3$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net... > Hi all > . I haven't pulled > the caps to check for leakage. If I do that and find them acceptable, should > I replace these nearly 30-year-old caps, or should they be expected to give > years of good service yet? Any thoughts? > > Thanks much > Paul > > It seems to me that as long as the radio is on the bench and your talking a couple of bucks worth of caps it makes sense to go ahead and replace them. Then you know for sure. Just my opinion. Larry Fowkes Article: 321494 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 08:20:01 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Passing on PayPal Fees? References: <8MCdnX88D6DoQ1bfRVn-hA@comcast.com> <11cooflc96cdd60@corp.supernews.com> <9q2dnTSTtNVhMpDeRVn-1w@comcast.com> Message-ID: William Sommerwerck wrote: > Phil, many of us are not businessmen -- we're individuals, and that > nearly-3% cuts significantly into what we receive. We can't write it off as > a business expense. > > It's even worse with eBay sales, because you're also paying listing and/or > sales fees to eBay -- who owns PayPal as well. There's a very simple cure. Don't use PayPal and don't use ebay if you can't manage the fees in relation to the income. -BM Article: 321495 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" References: Subject: Re: Web Page update Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 12:52:38 GMT What is the URL? PP "benjamaniac" wrote in message news:dejr0v$qpd$1@news3.infoave.net... > Okay guys, I really am working on that web page..I swear. I got most of > it done now, except that once I previewed the page I was totally unhappy > with how the photo's turned out. I think tomorrow I'm going to reshoot the > pics and replace them. other than that, I THINK I'm pretty well finished. > Shouldn't be too long now. > Ben > > Article: 321496 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: et472@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Michael Black) Subject: Re: Bill Turner? Date: 25 Aug 2005 12:56:55 GMT Message-ID: References: <3kaPe.278281$_o.233954@attbi_s71> John Goller, k9uwa (k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF) writes: > In article , > dmign@earthlink.net says... >> >> >>Thanks to everyone for the replies about Bills' address. >>And I too would like to know how Bill is doing. Let's hear from someone who >>knows or better yet from Bill himself. >> >>DON > > > Bill is back home... expect to hear from him probably tomorrow he will > get his internet fired up .... > > John k9uwa > It's steam operated? Michael Article: 321497 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: <1124564035.959548.159350@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <6eKdnRIBNYH755DeRVn-oQ@comcast.com> Subject: Re: Rip In Speaker Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 10:09:12 -0400 "Phil B" a opiné > I always get a kick out of the replies on this subject which comes up > frequently. Everyone has a favorite method. Nobody seems of have any > quantitative evidence on how well their favorite method holds up over > time. I wish I had a dime for every time I've seen a ripped speaker > repaired with scotch tape... all yellow and pealing away. > Many old timers swear by GC Service > Cement, but has anyone looked at a GC repaired speaker after 30 or 40 > years. That is my beef. Nobody knows!! Before you get a "kick out" of some replies, maybe you should educate yourself and ask what is really GC Cement, Speaker glue have in common. I'll let you find out and post your findings. You've already made the same comment in a similar thread a year ago. Speaker glue professionals (at least the ol' guys I know) have used the same glue for over 30 years and it does hold up pretty well thank you. When was the last time you saw a 1970 speaker come apart at the glue seam ? Never did. I did see a few 1930ies and 1950ies speakers come apart at the basket and cone suround. NEVER at the voice coil. I tend to think they learn from experience like everyone else and the glue "technology" has evolver quite a bit in the past 50 years thanks to companies like 3M. Here's a suggestion, write to JBL and ask what type of glue they supply with their drop-in kits. Or even to Ted Weber (WeberVST website), he's a cool guy and an expert about speakers, he'll be happy to answer... Yeah, I do find funny the fabric glue, the duct tape, silicone caulk even the tea bag and Bounce sheets but who am I to force others to use my way or any other way ? It's their speakers. I show what I do and to them to decide what's best. Heck, even if Ted Weber would be to post here and tell the group what is acceptable and not, there would still be fabric glue and duct tape and.... being used for repairs. I see that it is more what suits you best than what's best that works in this group, mixed an ounce of ego. Lighten up, threads like this one are funny to read as they repeat themselves over and over... Are we at 50 yet ? ;o) Syl Article: 321498 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Adney Subject: Re: Antique Radiophily Threatened by Trojans. Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 09:12:12 -0500 Message-ID: References: On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 18:55:52 -0400 "Williams" wrote: > Verily, it doth seem that the use of the home computer for accessing >info about antique radios and phonos is compromised by all the little virae, >wormazoids, pop-ups, and terrorist-hacker tom-foolery. > Ultimately, we are advised to GET A NEW COMPUTER. I strongly recommend that anyone who is connected to the internet get and install "Ad-Aware" and "Spybot, Search and Destroy." These are 2 FREE programs which will help rid your computer of that stuff that various web sites put in it. You can Google on them to find where to get them. Of course, you need some kind of anti-virus program, too. Both of these will make fresh datasets (also free) available for download on a regular basis and the programs will download them and install them for you, when you tell them to. The first time you run these you will probably be astonished at how many things they find that they want to clean out. Let them do it, and keep them up to date. In fact, writing about this has reminded me to update MY files. They're downloading at this very moment. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- Article: 321499 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: Subject: Re: Custer's Last Stand? - NOT!!! Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 10:17:11 -0400 "Jim Bailey" a opiné > Maybe I should charge 30% the next time ;-) Maybe you should stay away from confused old codgers... Syl Article: 321500 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Registered User Subject: Re: Passing on PayPal Fees? Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 10:09:54 -0400 Message-ID: References: <8MCdnX88D6DoQ1bfRVn-hA@comcast.com> <11cooflc96cdd60@corp.supernews.com> <9q2dnTSTtNVhMpDeRVn-1w@comcast.com> On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 04:46:53 -0700, "William Sommerwerck" wrote: > >many of us are not businessmen -- we're individuals, and that >nearly-3% cuts significantly into what we receive. We can't write it off as >a business expense. > Individuals who regularly engage in business, an on-going enterprise, are businessmen whether it suits them or not. That the practice is self-considered a hobby does not keep it from being a business. Is "what we receive" a synonym for gross or net profit? >It's even worse with eBay sales, because you're also paying listing and/or >sales fees to eBay -- who owns PayPal as well. > eBay and PayPal are two different services. Because the two are owned by the same company is there some entitlement that paying for one service permits the use of the other service gratis? For all the bitching and moaning eBay and PayPal can't be too bad of a combination. In spite of the fees no one, business or individual, seems to be going broke selling their wares using those services. regards from one of the many eBay owners Fritz Article: 321501 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: mikes@cs.indiana.edu (Michael Squires) Subject: Re: WANTED: Vintage Tektronix Equipement Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 14:55:42 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1124740778.330589.99030@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <287Pe.2916$k92.2274@trndny05> In article , BFoelsch wrote: > >The last generation of Tek tube scopes, the 544, 546 and 547 had a solid >state vertical section and actually hold up pretty well, but the CRTs are 35 I have a 546 with a 1A1 plugin; bought ca 1980 surplus at Dayton, still works. Only problem is the on-off switch, which has problems with the current draw. I've just replaced it with a calibrated 465, however, so if there's someone in the Bloomington, IN area who wants a scope (with cart) get in touch. I also have an older Ballantine RMS voltmeter which is now not needed (since I now have a newer HP unit). It worked the last time I turned it on, about 15 years ago. Mike Squires -- Mike Squires (mikes at cs.indiana.edu) 317 233 9456 (w) 812 333 6564 (h) mikes at siralan.org 546 N Park Ridge Rd., Bloomington, IN 47408 Article: 321502 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Passing on PayPal Fees? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <8MCdnX88D6DoQ1bfRVn-hA@comcast.com> <11cooflc96cdd60@corp.supernews.com> <9q2dnTSTtNVhMpDeRVn-1w@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 15:26:35 GMT In article <9q2dnTSTtNVhMpDeRVn-1w@comcast.com>, gizzledgeezer@comcast.net says... > > >Phil, many of us are not businessmen -- we're individuals, and that >nearly-3% cuts significantly into what we receive. > >It's even worse with eBay sales, because you're also paying listing and/or >sales fees to eBay -- who owns PayPal as well. > > Yup makes perfect sense to me William... except for this part... I can remember you complaining about the High Ebay Prices?... as in same item selling on fleabay is much higher than other places you might find it... so deducting a few percent from the high fleabay price... And you are still getting more bucks for your Widget than you would if you sold it elsewhere... next as many have stated... if you take PayPal for your auction you WILL get HIGHER BID PRICES than you would if you forced the buyer to get off his butt and go get you a money order... or write out a check and get an envelope to mail you your check... and the guy really isn't paying NOW .. he is paying LATER whenever his credit card bill gets there.... so once again William... you have stepped in it! John k9uwa Article: 321503 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Rip In Speaker From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1124564035.959548.159350@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <6eKdnRIBNYH755DeRVn-oQ@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 15:33:53 GMT In article <6eKdnRIBNYH755DeRVn-oQ@comcast.com>, pcb999@NOSPAMcomcast.net says... > > >I wish I had a dime for every time I've seen a ripped speaker >repaired with scotch tape... all yellow and pealing away. > Same as above applies to how many of them I have opened up that had that rubber stuff that GC sold used to fix the rips... and it is also separated from the cone over time.... As for time of the repair lasting.. at this point I have 12 years on several of my Coffee Filter and 3M #77 sprayglue and they are holding up just fine... THink that the Tea Totallers here will find the same with the TeaBag application.. Fabric Glue?.. beats me.. of the guys out there using Fabic Glue.. how many years have you been using it and gone back to check that it is still holding up well?.. My guess is that it will also be Fine yet today... John k9uwa Article: 321504 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Randy or Sherry Guttery Subject: Re: Antique Radiophily Threatened by Trojans. References: <1124982830.581238.14000@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 10:37:02 -0500 tschw10117@aol.com wrote: > Jim, my experience has been that if you run Ad-Aware, Spybot S&D is > unnecessary-- it finds and stops nothing that isn't covered by > Ad-Aware. And we found that Spybot misses some things that Ad-Aware gets... also my .02 -- randy guttery A Tender Tale - a page dedicated to those Ships and Crews so vital to the United States Silent Service: http://tendertale.com Article: 321505 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Larry Fowkes" References: <8MCdnX88D6DoQ1bfRVn-hA@comcast.com> <11cooflc96cdd60@corp.supernews.com> <9q2dnTSTtNVhMpDeRVn-1w@comcast.com> Subject: Re: Passing on PayPal Fees? Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 11:40:25 -0400 Message-ID: <430de733$0$3733$2c56edd9@news.cablerocket.com> "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message news:LqlPe.65260$084.20030@attbi_s22... >.. if you take PayPal for your auction you > WILL get HIGHER BID PRICES than you would if you forced the buyer > to get off his butt and go get you a money order... or write out > a check and get an envelope to mail you your check... and the guy > really isn't paying NOW .. he is paying LATER whenever his credit > card bill gets there.... > John k9uwa > > John, I have definately found it to be true that your items fetch a higher price accepting Paypal. Most people are more likely to spend $200 on their Visa card then they are in cold hard cash. I have been buying and selling on Ebay since June of 1998. I started accepting Paypal about a year and a half ago and noticed an immediate change in the number of bids and the average closing price of my auctions. It far exceeds the extra I pay for accepting credit cards via Paypal. To be honest I find that in most cases I will pass on an item if they don't take paypal unless it is something truly unusual, for the same reason. Going and getting a money order is a pain in the ass and I really don't like to send a personal check to an unknown party. The numbers at the bottom of your check are all a person needs to tap into your account these days. Larry Fowkes Article: 321506 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Caveat Lector" References: Subject: Re: Custer's Last Stand Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 09:43:00 -0700 Custer goofed He left the Handie-Talkies, Sabers, and Gatling guns back at Fort Abraham Lincoln And he couldn't read smoke signals (;-) -- CL -- I doubt, therefore I might be ! "Bruce Mercer" wrote in message news:j7idnTbrGb6dc5DeRVn-3g@sigecom.net... > > "Syl" wrote in message > news:VpkPe.1733$vR3.26834@wagner.videotron.net... >> "Jim Bailey" a opiné >> >>> Maybe I should charge 30% the next time ;-) >> >> Maybe you should stay away from confused old codgers... >> >> Syl > > > That would mean staying away from a lot of folks on this group, me > included. :-O) > > Bruce > Article: 321507 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: Subject: Re: Custer's Last Stand? - NOT!!! Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 12:46:25 -0400 "Bruce Mercer" a répondu > "Syl" wrote in message > news:VpkPe.1733$vR3.26834@wagner.videotron.net... > > "Jim Bailey" a opiné > > > >> Maybe I should charge 30% the next time ;-) > > > > Maybe you should stay away from confused old codgers... > > > > Syl > > > That would mean staying away from a lot of folks on this group, me included. > :-O) T'was meant tongue-in-cheek, but it seems the ng is totally lacking humour, according to some replies I read, everything being taken to the first degree. Talk about dryness... Syl Article: 321508 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: <6fcqg15fpog1iqlgi4ns06p4jnf79f0rq0@4ax.com> Subject: Re: A Few Walton questions Message-ID: <1124988900.317456c231a98ae96e2e2d316d3a8ca5@teranews> Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 11:54:53 -0500 "Blacksmith" wrote in message news:6fcqg15fpog1iqlgi4ns06p4jnf79f0rq0@4ax.com... > Any good suggestions for some kind of material to make a new gasket > out of? The gasket under the glass, that is. RadioDaze (and probably others) sells this gasket material. Check their web site, look for "rubber extrusions" under the Components section. You could probably find something similar locally at the hardware or auto-parts store. > Anyone know where one could find a cabinet for a Walton? What are the circumstances under which you would do this? The cabinet represents the *entire* value of a 7-J-232. You fix what you have, no matter how difficult. Take it to a furniture restoration shop if necessary. I know at least one repro cabinet has been produced. Cost over $1000 IIRC. You would use this when you have the right speaker and chassis for a 9- or 12-S-232, not a 7J. Not worth it. Article: 321509 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: Subject: Re: Custer's Last Stand? - NOT!!! Message-ID: <6PmPe.10996$hL3.47486@weber.videotron.net> Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 13:00:35 -0400 "Bruce Mercer" a répondu > > T'was meant tongue-in-cheek, but it seems the ng is totally lacking > > humour, > > according to some replies I read, everything being taken to the first > > degree. > > Talk about dryness... > > > > Syl > > Of course it was...I was right there with ya. > > Bruce Yeah I got that....;o) Just commenting about other replies, just sent you an email... Syl Article: 321510 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Contact Cleaner recommended by HP Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 17:25:43 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: In "William Sommerwerck" writes: [I quoted from an HP manual] >> CLEANING SOLUTION Hewlett-Packard recommends using either of two >> cleaning solutions on printed circuit (PC) board edge connectors. >> For best cleaning results, we recommend an ammonium hydroxide >> solution (NH4OH, 29.5% NH3 by weight). But, a concentrated >> solution of ammonia requires the use of gloves, eye goggles, and >> proper ventilation. The second recommendation is an 80:20 >> solution of isopropyl alcohol and water (IPA/H2O). This should >> serve as a satisfactory cleaner where one would not want to use >> ammonium hydroxide. >Satisfactory in what way? My best guess from the context is that "satisfactory" in this case means returning the edge connectors to a low-resistance condition. I suppose they may have meant satisfactory in achieving world peace, but I doubt it. >Gold is a noble metal, but gold contacts do pick >up a degree of crud. Is isopropyl alcohol going to remove it? Depends on whether the crud is soluble in alcohol. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 321511 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1124932231.652640.91400@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Mercedes Harmonic Balancer "Campaign" OT Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 17:30:23 GMT I don't think I'll ever understand the deal with recalls. To some degree I think the news media has a certain infatuation with foreign cars. If Ford for instance initiates a safety recall, it's front page news. If Toyota has a similar recall you'll never know about it -- giving the impression that foreign cars never break, while Americans are so stupid that they still can't build a car after all these years. Statistically, automobiles made in the Far East (or at least designed there) have nearly twice as many recalls as American built cars. But that's also deceptive -- American makes are less likely to correct a defect via recall; and more likely to correct the problem only if a vehicle fails because of it. I had a 94 Thunderbird that blew a head gasket. My daughter was using the car -- on a Friday at about 11:30pm she called and complained, "I'm in Ybor City, and the car started blowing all this white smoke and now it won't start!" So with the help of AAA, we managed to have the car towed all the way to Sarasota Ford while I was waiting in the wee hours. Turns out the car has a known defect, and Ford will cover repair and replacement of head gasket problems up to 100,000 miles. This car had over 99,000 miles on it. Back to the news media, there are some definite exceptions to what I was saying. For example, do you remember the Audi 5000's that had an acceleration problem? That hit the news bigtime. On the other side we have, to this day, major fuss regarding Mustangs with the drop-in gas tanks. There were a handful of reports related to rupture of these tanks in very serious accidents, but compared to the millions of vehicles made this wasn't even a drop in the bucket -- more like a vapor. Ford corrected the problem with the next body change -- but to this day, consumer groups are pressuring Ford to recall every Mustang -- some 40 years later -- to totally rebuild the body so as to use a different tank. Of course we still have bad feelings about the Pinto, and the Corvair -- even though the government concluded Ralph Nader's claims were totally false. One bog one I'll never understand -- one of the biggest design debacles of all time was talked about for awhile, but never corrected; and my 64 Thunderbird will do it. I'm talking about the ol' "jump out of park into reverse" syndrome. With only a small amount of wear on the shift lever, if you should get out of the car with the engine running, just a small vibration (such as shutting the door) will cause the transmission to jump out of park into reverse, all by itself. Not only that, the parking brake will automatically release, and away she goes! The only saving grace is that T-Birds have a swing-away steering column. if you swing the wheel to the right, the car is locked in park and this will not happen. So every 61-66 T-Bird owner knows, whenever you put the car in park, swing the wheel to the right. After all these years, no recall, fix, or correction has ever been made. Go figure. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Peter Wieck" wrote in message news:1124932231.652640.91400@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Mercedes Benz has an open campaign to replace Harmonic Balancers for > certain of its vehicles, mostly those with the 3.2 liter V6. What > happens is that the balancer will fail without warning, causing the > serpentine belt to sieze and often stopping the engine altogether. This > will then cause loss of steering and braking power (at least). > Typically it happens with vehicles with more than seventy-five (75,000) > thousand miles on them, but can happen at any age or mileage to those > vehicles affected. > > Mercedes has known of this defect for a while and initiated the > campaign in April of this year. As of this date, they have not notified > any individual owners, nor do they appear to intend to do so. > > How do I know this? > > That they fail: Coming off the downstroke of the Verrazano Narrows > Bridge from Brooklyn into Staten Island. Luckily I was going less than > 30 mph (just after the tolls) and was more-or-less accidentally pointed > towards a shoulder. I used a sloped embankment to help me stop the > vehicle, my 230 lbs on the pedal was not quite enough. That all the > other drivers of a Tuesday afternoon missed me illustrates the concept > of a guardian angel. That it did not happen some 40 minutes earlier > when I was on the Long Island Expressway, or 10 minutes later when I > would have been on the Goethals Bridge suggest that this same Angel was > a true professional. The belt siezed when the balancer broke loose, > stopping the engine cold. > > That there is a recall: When I arrived at the dealer in Edison, NJ, > their service advisor stated that the damage would be repaired at no > cost (it also took out the upper oil pan, damaged the fan and minor > other stuff). > > That this is not a "recent" issue: When I spoke to the Mercedes > Customer Service group. They also stated that they had no intention of > making the recall official "at this time". > > So, those of you who drive Mercedes vehicles equipped with a serpentine > belt and an harmonic balancer, get in touch with your dealership ASAP > and check its status re: the "campaign". Were it to fail at-speed with > your wife or child (or yourself if not large and strong) driving, the > vehicle would be uncontrollable. Not a fun situation. This happens > WITHOUT WARNING. Warn friends of yours who also drive such vehicles. > > > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA > Article: 321512 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Contact Cleaner recommended by HP Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 17:52:15 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1124929119.200257.311480@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> In <1124929119.200257.311480@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> "Peter Wieck" writes: >Note also: that I have used glacial ammonia (AKA Diazo developer) to >remove paint. It is strong stuff, no fun and not recommended around >electronic gear. That is 29.5%, by the way. Interesting! That must be where the formulation came from. >If HP was suggesting these two materials for cleaning 11 years ago, I >have to wonder at their reasoning as to use these particular materials >on that particular item. Must be something peculiar to the item and not >a general recommendation. No, not at all. In fact, they're not even relevant to this particular product -- it's a 1RU box with two circuit boards interconnected with ribbons and no edge connectors. The section of the manual I quoted looked like the good old boilerplate that companies like Tek & HP used to include in their service manuals. You know, stuff like what wattage soldering iron to use around semiconductors, how to avoid ESD damage, don't stick your fingers in the light socket; stuff like that. Having trusted the HP of yore as being one of those companies that usually had good reason for what they said and did, I figured somebody had actually tested these methodologies. Not necessarily, though. Nobody's infallible, and maybe this really ain't the best way to clean contacts. Figured I'd throw it into the fray anyway. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 321513 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: A Few Walton questions From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <6fcqg15fpog1iqlgi4ns06p4jnf79f0rq0@4ax.com> <1124988900.317456c231a98ae96e2e2d316d3a8ca5@teranews> <4h0sg1hr73pibtuoi704qmisbhbql6fg0l@4ax.com> Message-ID: <5RnPe.280977$_o.128083@attbi_s71> Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 18:11:13 GMT In article <4h0sg1hr73pibtuoi704qmisbhbql6fg0l@4ax.com>, blacksmith1@wowway.com says... > > >The person who owns the Walton I'm working on right now bought a good >chassis in order to get some parts for his. Turns out he didn't need >parts. Now he has a complete Walton and a good chassis that need a >cabinet. >.... >Blacksmith Paul is right.... your going to spend $1150 or so for a cabinet... and it will come with a chassis in it... so unless you think you can sell the restored chassis.... it isn't worth bothering to do restoration on it... John k9uwa Article: 321514 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Rip In Speaker From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1124564035.959548.159350@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <6eKdnRIBNYH755DeRVn-oQ@comcast.com> <7qadnUvFNLE4bZDeRVn-og@sigecom.net> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 18:14:55 GMT In article <7qadnUvFNLE4bZDeRVn-og@sigecom.net>, maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net says... > > > >to .06 by now. Have we reached 50 yet? > >Bruce > > nope... need a few more posts yet!... so that looks like the fabric glue and the 3M + coffee filter methods are good for long term repairs on speakers... John k9uwa Article: 321515 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Benjamaniac" Subject: OT Really !!!!!!! Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 12:40:58 -0600 Message-ID: I've got a '50's vintage Stoner candy vending machine in my shop taking up space. If anyone is interested, best offer...come and get it. I need the space for more radios !!!!!!! ( I mentioned that I need the space for radios because I really do and that keeps the posting within the limits for posting on the group...I think ) Ben Article: 321516 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Registered User Subject: Re: Mercedes Harmonic Balancer "Campaign" OT Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 14:37:11 -0400 Message-ID: References: <1124932231.652640.91400@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 12:27:45 -0500, Dave Garrett wrote: > >Older cars were also manufactured to much looser tolerances than modern >cars are, and it was rare for an older car to hit 100,000 miles without >requiring an engine rebuild. Nowadays, 100,000 miles is nothing for a >well-engineered and well-maintained car. Timing chains will stretch over >time and can require adjustment or replacement before a belt wears out. >Gears last longer, but they're much more expensive to manufacture, they >add complexity to an engine where a belt would be a simpler solution, >and many people find the noise they generate to be objectionable. > I am uncertain what period and earlier defines "older cars" but the first sentence appears to be well off the mark. It is exceedingly rare for a well-maintained passenger vehicle engine to require a rebuild at 100k. The flat-head V-8 had no history of reliability problems in several decades of production. The same can be said for all the variants of the small-block V-8, the L6s, the slant-sixes, the pancake-sixes and even the iron duke fours. There are instances like the aluminum-block Vegas and the 80's Caddy 4-6-8 but those are much more the exception than the rule. back to lurking Fritz Article: 321517 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Rip In Speaker Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 13:06:52 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1124564035.959548.159350@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <6eKdnRIBNYH755DeRVn-oQ@comcast.com> "Phil B" wrote in message news:6eKdnRIBNYH755DeRVn-oQ@comcast.com... >I always get a kick out of the replies on this subject which comes up > frequently. Everyone has a favorite method. Nobody seems of have any > quantitative evidence on how well their favorite method holds up over > time. I wish I had a dime for every time I've seen a ripped speaker > repaired with scotch tape... all yellow and pealing away. > > Basically, you need some sort of glue and some material to bridge the > gap across a tear. This concept seems simple, but what is the best glue > and gap-bridging material? That's where the problem comes in. What is > best for strength, flexibility, endurance? All the suggestions I have > ever seen are pure folklore. Some that I have rejected are scotch tape, > duct tape, and silicon caulk. i have seen duct tape on small rips on PA gear, that is still functioning just fine after 10 years. which isnt to say it will always work, but it can work. its not folklore. all duct tapes are not equal either. some stick better. ive personally found ace brand to be very good duct tape. randy Article: 321518 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: How to Use an Ammmeter [Ampmeter?] Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 19:12:05 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: In Gordon Richmond writes: >Aha! Another user of the dread "Death Cord" :>) >Useful thing to have around. And its name is not entirely undeserved. >One does have to be careful. Really, really careful. Fluke used to make one of the handiest test leads around. It was a molded plug with a socket on the back. You'd plug it into the wall and plug the equipment into it. A long pair of leads went to your meter's current measuring jacks. I believe it was discontinued, as often seems to happen with truly useful products. It's a good thing to keep an eye out for used. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 321519 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Rip In Speaker Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 19:20:54 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1cc8b$43092a9a$4232bd3d$10116@COQUI.NET> <2497-430D0D98-128@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net> In <2497-430D0D98-128@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net> goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) writes: >What happens when you run out of solder or lacquer ? or whiskey :-) Whiskey substitutes quite well for solder and lacquer. :) -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 321520 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave Burson" Subject: Radio and TV art Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 19:41:41 GMT I've just been browsing Ad*Access.com which has several thousand scanned images of magazine and poster art from the first half of the 20th century. Of the 5 or 6 general categories, 3 of them are Radio, Television and WWII. Best of all the quality is superb...large, 150 dpi images (many in color) intended to be downloaded. You might be able to make a re-creation of an ad for one of your favorite radios! Dave Burson Article: 321521 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <430d27e3$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net> Subject: Re: Replace 30-year-old e-caps? Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 15:51:15 -0400 "Paul Dietenberger" wrote in message news:430d27e3$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net... > Hi all > > Keep in mind this isn't my radio; it's a paid repair job. I haven't pulled > the caps to check for leakage. If I do that and find them acceptable, should > I replace these nearly 30-year-old caps, or should they be expected to give > years of good service yet? Any thoughts? > > Thanks much > Paul > > Your radio, probably okay to let them slide. Paying Customer? I'd spend the three bucks and put new caps under the chassis for the peace of mind. Personally, I think most of the can caps made after the 1960s are pretty decent, but a car radio is subjected to some pretty brutal temp. extremes. I'd worry about the seal life for one thing. Pete Article: 321522 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Randy or Sherry Guttery Subject: Re: How to Use an Ammmeter [Ampmeter?] References: Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 15:24:30 -0500 Tim Mullen wrote: > Fluke used to make one of the handiest test leads around. It was > a molded plug with a socket on the back. You'd plug it into the wall > and plug the equipment into it. A long pair of leads went to your > meter's current measuring jacks. I believe it was discontinued, as > often seems to happen with truly useful products. It's a good thing > to keep an eye out for used. Wal-Mart has them (sort of). Look for an appliance "remote switch cord". It has the plug/socket as you describe... the cord with switch is in series with one of the "blades"... replace the switch at the end of the cord with appropriate plugs... (safety banana plugs are best here - and they're only $5 - $6 a pair). best regards... -- randy guttery A Tender Tale - a page dedicated to those Ships and Crews so vital to the United States Silent Service: http://tendertale.com Article: 321523 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: Radio and TV art References: Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 17:29:47 -0400 Got a working url for this site? Ken Dave Burson wrote: > I've just been browsing Ad*Access.com which has several thousand scanned > images of magazine and poster art from the first half of the 20th century. > Of the 5 or 6 general categories, 3 of them are Radio, Television and WWII. > Best of all the quality is superb...large, 150 dpi images (many in color) > intended to be downloaded. You might be able to make a re-creation of an ad > for one of your favorite radios! > Dave Burson > > Article: 321524 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Robert Murrell" References: Subject: Re: Radio and TV art Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 21:44:53 GMT Here is the link. http://scriptorium.lib.duke.edu/adaccess/index.html "Dave Burson" wrote in message news:V9pPe.943$dw4.278@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net... > I've just been browsing Ad*Access.com which has several thousand scanned > images of magazine and poster art from the first half of the 20th century. > Of the 5 or 6 general categories, 3 of them are Radio, Television and > WWII. Best of all the quality is superb...large, 150 dpi images (many in > color) intended to be downloaded. You might be able to make a re-creation > of an ad for one of your favorite radios! > Dave Burson > Article: 321525 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave Burson" References: <1125001264.490920.194890@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Radio and TV art Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 22:22:37 GMT Sorry, that was how I had it bookmarked. Try http://scriptorium.lib.duke.edu/adaccess/ Dave wrote in message news:1125001264.490920.194890@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com... > What's the correct URL? > > Terry. > Article: 321526 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: <6fcqg15fpog1iqlgi4ns06p4jnf79f0rq0@4ax.com> <1124988900.317456c231a98ae96e2e2d316d3a8ca5@teranews> <4h0sg1hr73pibtuoi704qmisbhbql6fg0l@4ax.com> <5RnPe.280977$_o.128083@attbi_s71> <63esg113sn49ln5kpdmpcmc46lm676d5ip@4ax.com> Subject: Re: A Few Walton questions Message-ID: <1125009117.df054d40812e6144f1a3deac7a7626c7@teranews> Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 17:31:49 -0500 "Blacksmith" wrote in message news:63esg113sn49ln5kpdmpcmc46lm676d5ip@4ax.com... >He can't just let the extra > chassis sit in a closet, so he's looking for a cabinet. If he finds it > he'll have 2 complete Waltons. > Maybe someone has a Walton with a rusted hulk of a chassis sitting in > it. The point John was trying to make is that what you are proposing to do does not make financial sense for anybody. The vibrator chassis is effectively worthless in the tombstone cabinet because it is so much less desirable than the three AC chassis. To acquire an empty 7J232 cabinet or one with a rusty chassis will cost as much as a 7J232 cabinet with a nice chassis in it, because all the value of the radio is in the cabinet. If the cabinet has an AC chassis in it, the chassis is worth restoring no matter how bad it is because only the AC chassis add value to the set. Regards, Paul Article: 321527 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: why_not@spam_sucks.org Subject: CX-210 Tube - Manufacturer? Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 16:25:13 -0700 Who manufactured the CX-210 tube? The tube is amrked CX-210 but no trace of the manufacturer. Thanks, Dave Article: 321528 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: How to Use an Ammmeter [Ampmeter?] Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 23:45:38 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: In Randy or Sherry Guttery writes: >Tim Mullen wrote: >> Fluke used to make one of the handiest test leads around. It was >> a molded plug with a socket on the back. You'd plug it into the wall >> and plug the equipment into it. A long pair of leads went to your >> meter's current measuring jacks. I believe it was discontinued, as >> often seems to happen with truly useful products. It's a good thing >> to keep an eye out for used. >Wal-Mart has them (sort of). Look for an appliance "remote switch cord". > It has the plug/socket as you describe... the cord with switch is in >series with one of the "blades"... replace the switch at the end of the >cord with appropriate plugs... (safety banana plugs are best here - and >they're only $5 - $6 a pair). Good idea. I know what you're talking about -- got one laying around somewheres. Zipcord with a thumbwheel line switch. Fortunately I've kept a tight grip on my bright-yellow Fluke cable, but if I ever lose it that'd be a good way to go. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 321529 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: Sound and almost a picture.... Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 08:47:33 +0900 Message-ID: References: <12354-430D5058-15@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net> <1124988266.403304.245000@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1125012165.517603.196660@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> wrote in message news:1125012165.517603.196660@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > I replaced the last of the paper capacitors and the .0068 I subsituted > for a .001 across the horizontal output transformer. That didn't make > any difference, but I noticed something else. The chassis isn't bolted > into the cabinet and in the course of making adjustments I moved the > chassis slightly and there was an effect on the picture. By repeating > this I was able to make the picture jump around a bit, make it a bit > brighter, fill the screen a bit more, and also lose sound, only to > regain it shortly. > > Thinking about what Bill said regarding grounding the Aquadag I bolted > the chassis back to the metal cabinet with its lone mounting bolt > (there are supposed to be 3 but only one came with the set). After > doing that the picture went back to what it was before - dim, only part > of the screen and wiggling the chassis didn't have any effect. Is there a largish capacitor in the HV cage, shaped like a cylinder with serrations on the top, and mounted with lugs? Some of those old sets had a filter cap on the ouput of the HV rectifier (doorknob caps).. I had completely forgotten about those.. and if that cap were open, it could well cause your problem. Article: 321530 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Philco 96 data Needed Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 20:01:15 -0400 Does anyone have a list of the component values for this set? N Air has the diag but no list, Bietman has a list but it's part numbers only. Ken Article: 321531 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: A Few Walton questions From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <6fcqg15fpog1iqlgi4ns06p4jnf79f0rq0@4ax.com> <1124988900.317456c231a98ae96e2e2d316d3a8ca5@teranews> <4h0sg1hr73pibtuoi704qmisbhbql6fg0l@4ax.com> <5RnPe.280977$_o.128083@attbi_s71> <63esg113sn49ln5kpdmpcmc46lm676d5ip@4ax.com> <1125009117.df054d40812e6144f1a3deac7a7626c7@teranews> <3rlsg1telglplfh9uoe8137b0brqsom9hf@4ax.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 00:18:27 GMT In article <3rlsg1telglplfh9uoe8137b0brqsom9hf@4ax.com>, blacksmith1@wowway.com says... > > asked me to see if I could find a cabinet for the extra chassis. > >I'll relay the information to him. >.... >Blacksmith best to just resell the leftover chassis for parts unit... the shutter leaves are the same as the other versions .. and many of the other parts on the chassis... as for the finding of another cabinet... that was the exact price that I paid for the last one I purchased... $1150 ... and the chassis that was in the cabinet is a Really Really Really .... Rusty ... 7J232... and the cabinet had 4 holes drilled in one side of it... John k9uwa Article: 321532 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Passing on PayPal Fees? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <8MCdnX88D6DoQ1bfRVn-hA@comcast.com> <11cooflc96cdd60@corp.supernews.com> <9q2dnTSTtNVhMpDeRVn-1w@comcast.com> Message-ID: <1ktPe.306962$xm3.227734@attbi_s21> Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 00:25:33 GMT In article , gizzledgeezer@comcast.net says... > > >Highly plausible... But prove it. > > Well William ... all of us that sell on ebay know it happens... your right I guess.... all of us that sell there.. and say that we get higher bids for our items have no way to prove it to your satisfaction... therefore it must not be true..... John k9uwa Article: 321533 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mike Schultz" References: Subject: Re: CX-210 Tube - Manufacturer? Message-ID: Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 00:58:58 GMT It was probably made by one of the many small independent tube manufacturers that flourished briefly during the 20's, and may well be a bootleg (produced without paying patent royalties to RCA). Some of these tubes were never marked with a manufacturer's name, or had a sticker glued to the bulb, which is often missing after 75-80 years. Such tubes were generally cheaper than the name brands, and of lower quality. -- Mike Schultz wrote in message news:trsPe.2232$UI.2026@okepread05... > Who manufactured the CX-210 tube? The tube is amrked CX-210 but no trace > of the manufacturer. > > Thanks, > > Dave Article: 321534 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ron in Radio Heaven Subject: Re: CX-210 Tube - Manufacturer? References: Message-ID: <6VtPe.49175$1J2.552750@twister.southeast.rr.com> Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 01:05:06 GMT CX tubes were made by Cunningham. Ron why_not@spam_sucks.org wrote: > Who manufactured the CX-210 tube? The tube is amrked CX-210 but no trace > of the manufacturer. > > Thanks, > > Dave Article: 321535 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: Sound and almost a picture.... Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 10:08:07 +0900 Message-ID: References: <12354-430D5058-15@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net> <1124988266.403304.245000@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1125012165.517603.196660@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1125015184.380075.324790@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> wrote in message news:1125015184.380075.324790@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > You may be on to something there. I remember seeing a cap rated at 56 > mmf 6 kV on the Photofact but never came across it while recapping the > set, probably due to it being hidden in the HV cage. > > I took a look in there and I found the capacitor, but it's not an > electrolytic. It looks like dogbone resistor, and although not directly > connected to the output of the 1B3, it is connected across the flyback. > One end of it shares a common connection with the width control and the > other goes to the yoke. > > I believe this might be my problem. Only snag is that I don't have any > capacitors rated that high, and have nowhere to get any aside from > buying in bulk. (CFD) 000050R0AASA 50pF 6kv 10% Ceramic Disc A 1.50 http://www.surplussales.com/Capacitors/CeramicCaps/CC12-100.html That one could be your problem, but the one I'm thinking about would be much larger, and would come off the base of the 1B3, and the other end mounted on the HV cage (ground). These are REALLY difficult to find (sans removing them from old chassis) and very expensive when you can find them. The good news is, the values are not super critical.. for instance, if you have a 500pf/16KV doorknob, a 680 or even a 330pf at anything above 16KV will work fine. Article: 321536 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" References: <6fcqg15fpog1iqlgi4ns06p4jnf79f0rq0@4ax.com> <1124988900.317456c231a98ae96e2e2d316d3a8ca5@teranews> <4h0sg1hr73pibtuoi704qmisbhbql6fg0l@4ax.com> <5RnPe.280977$_o.128083@attbi_s71> <63esg113sn49ln5kpdmpcmc46lm676d5ip@4ax.com> <1125009117.df054d40812e6144f1a3deac7a7626c7@teranews> Subject: Re: A Few Walton questions Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 20:58:54 -0400 You'd think the enterprising woodworkers among us would have made a few cabinets for all those extras chassis out there! Frank Article: 321537 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <6fcqg15fpog1iqlgi4ns06p4jnf79f0rq0@4ax.com> <1124988900.317456c231a98ae96e2e2d316d3a8ca5@teranews> <4h0sg1hr73pibtuoi704qmisbhbql6fg0l@4ax.com> <5RnPe.280977$_o.128083@attbi_s71> <63esg113sn49ln5kpdmpcmc46lm676d5ip@4ax.com> <1125009117.df054d40812e6144f1a3deac7a7626c7@teranews> Subject: Re: A Few Walton questions Message-ID: Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 21:19:48 -0400 "Buck Frobisher" wrote in message news:lPtPe.1425$Rc.430964@news20.bellglobal.com... > You'd think the enterprising woodworkers among us would have made a few > cabinets for all those extras chassis out there! > > Frank > > Problem is a lot of very nice consoles would get sacrificed to fill them. On the other hand, it would be nice to see the orphaned 7J232 chassis's find a new turtle shell to live in. Pete Article: 321538 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "DumpsterDiver" References: Subject: Re: CX-210 Tube - Manufacturer? Message-ID: Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 01:20:25 GMT CX- usually designates Cunningham, but most early Cunningham tubes start with 3, not 2. Sounds like it's a #10 in any case. Probably made by GE, who made Cunningham CX-310, Radiotron (RCA) UV-210, UX-210. DD wrote in message news:trsPe.2232$UI.2026@okepread05... > Who manufactured the CX-210 tube? The tube is amrked CX-210 but no trace > of the manufacturer. > > Thanks, > > Dave Article: 321539 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "DumpsterDiver" References: <1124766349.900785.144210@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: found in ma's basement Message-ID: Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 01:20:26 GMT DON'T PUSH YOUR LUCK! Put fuses in it QUICK! Early AC sets like that are notorious for filter capacitor thermal runaway resulting in power transformer failure. This subject has been flogged a lot on this NG, so I won't go into details, but you REALLY don't want to have to replace a fried power transformer or filter choke (tar-potted). If I recall correctly, a 125 mA B+ fuse should be right for this model. Even with a fuse, keep an eye on the transformer can surface temperature; if you can't leave your hand on it, it's too hot and will likely fail sooner or later if you don't do something to lighten the load (typically remove the old capacitors from the B+ filter network). DD wrote in message news:1124766349.900785.144210@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Found (under a pile of junk) a long forgotten about Atwater Kent Model > 60 radio (six legged model) that my ma's parents bought. Plugged it > in and it still works. Unlike the Twilight Zone episode (Static) I > didn't hear old time radio programs :0) > Article: 321540 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" Subject: ISO Schematic for Philips 343A Message-ID: Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 01:23:41 GMT I am in search of a schematic and alignment info for a Philips 343A Table Top radio. It runs on 200 -240 vac at 50 hz. My hope is to restore this radio and get it to run on American power. Thanks in advance, Paul P. paul at (remove) ppinyot dot com Article: 321541 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ron in Radio Heaven Subject: Re: CX-210 Tube - Manufacturer? References: Message-ID: <2avPe.50764$1J2.563114@twister.southeast.rr.com> Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 02:31:26 GMT DumpsterDiver wrote: > CX- usually designates Cunningham, but most early Cunningham tubes start > with 3, not 2. Sounds like it's a #10 in any case. > To quote Gerald Tyne’s “Sage of the vacuum tube”. From the second paragraph on page 310. “One exception to this system was the marking of tubes for Cunningham, who became a distributor of RCA tubes. According to the agreement with RCA, the tubes he sold were to be marked as he directed and were to bear no RCA identification. Cunningham used C numbers instead of UV, and CX inst