Article: 323327 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: current limiting resistors From: Larry References: <6n8tj15r7km45dpdvf5ejbsid69pn2hcg8@4ax.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 14:33:53 -0400 philsvintageradios wrote in news:6n8tj15r7km45dpdvf5ejbsid69pn2hcg8@4ax.com: > I "think " this is a relatively new way of designing things. but I > don't know, and i also don't know how zener diodes work. I am hoping > someone can enlighten me because this sounds like it could provide a > good way to protect a radio, perhaps even substitute for a fuse? > > > I know this is difficult for some to accept, but it is now a DIGITAL world. New power supplies are called "switchers". Even the one charging up my new powerboard (electric skateboard) batteries is a switcher. There's no magic analog component in any of them. Their output is perfect...no hum....rock stable voltage up to the current limit...then shutdown until the overload is removed. Nothing "blows", no components pop and smoke, goofproof. Switchers consist of a simple analog full wave rectifier charging capacitors at 120 Hz (100 Hz for the rest of the civilized world, it matters not). They don't even care what voltage you feed them within a wide range....like 85VAC to 280VAC. The circuit simply digests what it's fed into an unregulated, noisy, varying DC power to feed the hungry power switcher transistors. Anything will do in that range, even if it goes up and down 50% per second. This DC is fed to a simple, small IC regulator (sometimes part of the switcher IC, itself) that provides a stable DC to feed the switcher IC. This special IC is a pulse-width-modulated square wave generator, whos pulse width is regulated by an analog-to-pulsewidth converter that compares that zener voltage (it's all in the IC, no hard parts) to the output voltage, even remotely sensed if you like outside the box. The IC simply generates pulses that get wider when the output tries to drop and get narrower when the output tries to rise. A low-value series resistor feeds two more pins on the IC, probably through a simple voltage divider or pot, that lets the IC's current/trip monitor circuit watch the output current. These odd pulses are fed to power transistors, now probably power FET transistors that switch from saturated to off in picoseconds, NEVER operated in the analog region in between. Because of this full on or off, they hardly get warm, even switching a thousand watts. The switching pulses from these power FETs are fed to a toroid transformer because, unlike your analog power supply, they switch at a very high switching frequency, 80 Khz? 100 Khz?...it matters not...it's high, so we need a high frequency transformer. High frequency toroid transformers at tiny little things, not big honking 50/60 Hz beasts that drink copper. There are several output windings, maybe, like the one powering your computer where we need several output voltages (+5, -12, +12, -15, +15 or more in some). The IC's sensing circuit watches the highest load output that would vary the worst. The odd pulses, now all distorted by the toroid and all those harmonics (which matters not), is unceremoniously fed to a rectifier and (relatively) tiny output filter that charges up 100,000 times per second, not 60 or 120, so it's really easy to get rid of the 100Khz (200Khz if full wave rectified) "hum". It just is much easier to average out such high freq pulses into pure DC. The new DC is fed through the series current measuring resistor to the output. (Any drop in this resistor matters not because the voltage measuring point of the switching IC is AFTER this drop.) As a matter of fact NONE of voltage drops in the power supply matter a damn because the IC sets the voltage on the OUTPUT terminals and negates any drops inside. Add remote sensing to measure the voltage 500 yards away in the next building and it even compensates for the outside wiring! If ANYTHING happens, it shuts down. If you short it, it shuts down. If the IC goes crazy, overheats, explodes...it shuts down. Because the power transistors AREN'T hooked directly to the load like an old series analog regulator, if they short...it shuts down. If it overheats, a thermister on the power transistor heatsink warns the IC and....you guessed it....it shuts down. There IS a fuse! It protects the AC power line if the input rectifiers right across the line short, the input cap shorts or the power transistors short...which shuts it down. If there's a huge pulse that DOESN'T blow the input bridge or input filter cap...it's simply absorbed to be used by the switcher. Powerline spikes, now overcharging the input filter cap, cause a momentary pulse drive narrowing because the increase in available input DC tried to make the output go up....it never happened...regulation is 100,000 times per second. I've never figured out why people buy "surge protectors" for PCs with switching power supplies, unless it's really a UPS to KEEP THE POWER COMING...(C; Oh, a new IC is about 75 cents (plus shipping). Power FETs are down to $1.25 to $2.50, depending on how many kilowatts it is. The input fuse costs more. A nice switching power supply would make a great radio power supply for the old girls. You can tailor the output of a switcher design to provide EASY- START, slow rising filament voltages to come up in a nice, slow, controllable curve. Then, after the filaments are stable, have the high voltage power supply, another switcher controlled by the first, come on easy to keep the output transformer from pulsing the power tubes or making a pop in the speaker. After the startup sequence, of course, the switcher would monitor the output and do autoshutdown if the current rises above a preset level. Powering the set off would also have a similar sequence, shut down DC then power down filaments EASY to prevent thermal shock to historic relics. You wouldn't have an ON-OFF switch. (Check out the on-off tiny pushbutton that powers your nice computer monitor, also running on a switcher, of course). -- Larry Article: 323328 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? From: Larry References: <1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128111521.103662.260350@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128186648.617612.148860@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 14:49:39 -0400 Before any of you die, treat yourselves to the finest audio I have ever heard: http://www.bang-olufsen.com/sw11428.asp These goofy-looking speakers continuously adjust themselves and their built in 4 digital amplifiers with a built-in computer that constantly measures the room they are in from their own vantage point to make perfect sound. The demo I got had a guy carrying around everything from soft chairs and acoustic panels to a big, reflective, portable wall! You sit there and something SHOULD change, right? I thought it should....it didn't! The silly speakers compensated themselves for the changes in the room....even when people came and went and moved around in the room. I've always appreciated Bang Olufsen's top-of-the-pile audio equipment, quietly going about their business making the best. That tradition continues.... 2500 watts per channel that makes NO SOUND, EVEN WIDE OPEN! Amazing.... Wish I could just shell out the thousands for them.....(snif) Bose my ass.............how awful. -- Larry Of course, if your Ipod just sounds too much, you could get these for it: http://www.engadget.com/entry/1234000453036338/ hee hee...."One born every minute"....(c; Article: 323329 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ron in Radio Heaven Subject: CC-AWA Fall Swap Meet Message-ID: Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 18:52:03 GMT Saturday October 29th 7AM til 12noon. At City Lake Park in Jamestown NC. Jamestown in right next to Greensboro. This is the biggest and longest running of our Saturday morning "mini" Swap Meets. There are typically 30+ vendors at this event. Admission is FREE. Vendor setup is only $5. This event as all of of our Saturday morning swap meets starts early, 7-8am and ends before 12noon. If you sleep late and get there after about 10AM all you're likely to see is folks packing up their goodies and heading for lunch. You can find details about all CC-AWA events at our web page at; http://www.cc-awa.org We hope to see you there. Ron KC4YOY Article: 323330 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! References: <1128053226.360345.56280@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 19:21:24 GMT Mark Oppat wrote: > Anyone here recommend a good retail type inventory control & sales > program??? http://www.retailice.com/ You need to have a reasonably recent computer (500 MHz and running Windows 2K or NT on it) but that's about it. It's almost free. It's perfect for a one pony show. They sell it low on the assumptioni you'll like it, get successful and need all the other stuff they sell. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323331 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 14:08:19 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128111521.103662.260350@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128186648.617612.148860@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> ive always found it hard to take B&O seriously. sounds OK and is mucho overpriced (16k a pair for a set of these bad boys). borderline audiophool gear if you ask me... unless you get it used and cheap. building a microphone into the speakers themselves to monitor and adjust performance is a gimmick. the biggest problem is that your ear isnt at the vantage point of the speakers. im sure it made a 'difference', i just cant see how it made it 'better' necessarily. now if you want to start talking about some wireless clip on device that keeps it solid at the listeners position maybe... to be honest, it all smells of something bose would do. randy "Larry" wrote in message news:Xns96E2968FC11D5noone@63.223.7.253... > Before any of you die, treat yourselves to the finest audio I have ever > heard: > > http://www.bang-olufsen.com/sw11428.asp > > These goofy-looking speakers continuously adjust themselves and their > built > in 4 digital amplifiers with a built-in computer that constantly measures > the room they are in from their own vantage point to make perfect sound. > > The demo I got had a guy carrying around everything from soft chairs and > acoustic panels to a big, reflective, portable wall! You sit there and > something SHOULD change, right? I thought it should....it didn't! The > silly speakers compensated themselves for the changes in the room....even > when people came and went and moved around in the room. > > I've always appreciated Bang Olufsen's top-of-the-pile audio equipment, > quietly going about their business making the best. That tradition > continues.... > > 2500 watts per channel that makes NO SOUND, EVEN WIDE OPEN! Amazing.... > > Wish I could just shell out the thousands for them.....(snif) > > Bose my ass.............how awful. > > -- > Larry > > Of course, if your Ipod just sounds too much, you could get these for it: > > http://www.engadget.com/entry/1234000453036338/ > > hee hee...."One born every minute"....(c; Article: 323332 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" Subject: AK-60 -- more questions than answers Message-ID: Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 20:10:16 GMT There is one thing I can say about messing with an AK-60 -- it's a learning experience! This afternoon I decided to clear off a space on my bench and set the radio on it. I started by checking each of those dogbone resistors. Okay, this one's blue, that one's black, and that one's yellow, so I pull out the schematic, only to find "blue, black, yellow"! Well, through an afternoon's worth of research I found that AK had their own way of marking resistors -- and all of them were WAY off. So I bit the bullet and replaced them with modern counterparts, and saved the old ones in case there's a way of stuffing them. Put it back together, set it in place across the room, and turned it on. Volume still very weak, and the whistles are back! So I suppose the next step is to check the capacitors to see what's in store for me there. When it comes to capacitors, the values are (finally!) in the schematic -- but I'm sure I'll be fed some sort of surprise there too. After that, if it still doesn't work, I'll have to find a place fo rthe speaker so I can apply power and troubleshoot. Article: 323333 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: current limiting resistors Message-ID: References: <6n8tj15r7km45dpdvf5ejbsid69pn2hcg8@4ax.com> Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 22:43:54 GMT Larry, Thanks for taking the time to write that description of switching power supplies. I definitely learned something from reading it, and now have a much better appreciation of how they work. Before that, I tended to regard them as a black box. Gordon Richmond Article: 323334 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "C. James Strutz" Subject: How to remove paint? Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 19:46:13 -0400 Message-ID: <11ju7tch91hsm9b@news.supernews.com> How do I remove paint from a plastic cabinet without causing damage? Article: 323335 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Hagstar Subject: Re: Silvertone 4587A console Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 20:28:17 -0400 Message-ID: <11juad6brb7ccab@corp.supernews.com> References: <433ddae4$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net> Paul Dietenberger wrote: > the proprietor noticed me looking at it and > offered to sell it to me for $75. > This is the 11-tube, 5-knob mirror-dial set with flash > tuning, second from the top of the line for '37. I'll give you $80- ! :) I have a 4587 fresh from Couldztown, at least they're small footprint! "It looked just like a full size console in the catalog....." John H. Article: 323336 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: novatech@eskimo.com (Steven Swift) Subject: Re: Protecting battery tubes Date: 2 Oct 2005 00:31:21 GMT Message-ID: References: <3d47d$4334c363$4232bd28$26669@COQUI.NET> <1128119436.922475.97020@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> "nesesu" writes: >Steven, I find that some 'farm' type battery radios tend to rely on a >low impedance 'B' battery to keep stable, so adding 1K ohms in series >MIGHT upset the IF. May or may not be a problem depending on set >design. The other issue is voltage drop since most 'ordinary' farm sets >draw about 10-15mA of B power, so one has 10-15V loss with 1k in >series. On the other hand, if the set has the filaments in series such >as in AC DC portables, then at 90V B you still would get about 80mA >through the filaments and would likely still seriously damage them. >There never seems to be a simple solution to a simple problem :-( >Neil S. That was the simple answer. Most of my "real" supplies have active current limits set to about 20ma. If you have 1.5v farm radio, which probably takes 250-350ma, you can use a smaller resistor. You're right though, it is not easy and nothing is fool proof. Steven. -- Steven D. Swift, novatech@eskimo.com, http://www.novatech-instr.com NOVATECH INSTRUMENTS, INC. P.O. Box 55997 206.301.8986, fax 206.363.4367 Seattle, Washington 98155 USA Article: 323337 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Larry Fowkes" References: <4fGdnZXBN9hGXqPenZ2dnUVZ_tKdnZ2d@comcast.com> <1128190462.785376.300630@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Battery Set Power Cables Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 20:31:49 -0400 Message-ID: <433f2b50$0$14236$2c56edd9@news.cablerocket.com> "Jim Strickland" wrote in message news:1128190462.785376.300630@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com... > Antique Radio Supply (www.tubesandmore.com) sells such wire by the > foot. It's not cheap, but it's correct. > > -Jim Thanks Jim, I have shopped there many times but never realized that they carried it. Larry Article: 323338 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? From: Larry References: <1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <5OqdnSAsprhZUKPeRVn-tw@giganews.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 20:51:37 -0400 "Phil Nelson" wrote in news:5OqdnSAsprhZUKPeRVn- tw@giganews.com: > but my wife finally put her foot down about that. Mine put her foot down in 1988. She finally left me in 1992. Sometimes I still miss her, sometimes NOT. I have one leased, now. Still no owner's manual, though, dammit. A couple of years back I sent her one of those black Halloween witches hats to go with her broom......(c; -- Larry Article: 323339 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: current limiting resistors From: Larry References: <6n8tj15r7km45dpdvf5ejbsid69pn2hcg8@4ax.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 20:53:24 -0400 Gordon Richmond wrote in news:q54uj1h27lcbs0jdj9nha1i76nii47m05n@4ax.com: > tended to regard them as a black box. > > Gordon Richmond > > Computer techs do, too. They're afraid to even replace the fuse...(c; -- Larry Article: 323340 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? Date: 1 Oct 2005 20:06:03 -0500 Message-ID: <433f31d7$0$214$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128111521.103662.260350@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128186648.617612.148860@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1128206043.043191.201430@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Peter Wieck wrote: > You think well of B&O. Why? > > I find it to be ineffable crap. But that is just my opinion... and > having dealt with people who feel much the same about AR speakers, I > have learned to be tolerant of deviants. > > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA > Let me explain something: companies can change; they can especially be purchased and changed dramatically. B&O, in the past, made gear that was glitzy and gear that was good. I recall one cassette deck that was so good that one or two audiophile record companies were using it to make high-grade cassette releases in real time. Some people considered it the finest cassette deck ever made. I think that they made a few excellent stereo cartridges (I like the geometry of the stylus assembly). However, their abandonment of their installed customer base of turntables was inexcuasable. After all, when your needle wore out, you were completely captive for a replacement: the tonearm would only accept a B&O cartridge, which would only accept a B&O stylus. The company could have at least set up an aftermarket route to a stylus retipper for their customers, but they did not. Their engineering has been highly proprietary, usually requiring specialists for repair. Considering their behavior about the phono styli, I'd never buy one of their products no matter how good. Regarding AR: let's face it. Their early speakers were excellent. Anyone who dismisses them out of hand is talking through a hole in his head. Consider that AR3s were used for a number of years as monitors in many of fine recording studios. What I'm saying is that the AR3 was a reference speaker. Unlike KLH, AR speakers were responsibly constructed and repairable. Although their sound has been surpassed by more modern speakers in transparency and dynamics, the early models are still very musical and very easy to live with. Later, however, AR was acquired by Teldyne, who maintained the original quality for a long time. However, the brand was finally sold to Recoton, who, as was their manner, traded on a fine brand name to sell junk to unsuspecting consumers. I helped a friend repair a pair of more recent, larger AR speakers a couple of years ago and was underwhelmed with the quality. Nothing unusual here. Recoton also had acquired Jensen, which in turn had acquired Advent. Recoton also gathered up other brands (including two German speaker builders). I think that everything they touched turned to crap. Two years ago, I picked up a pair of "AR" speakers at Costco -- after listening to them for one minute, I packed them up and returned them for a refund. I'm glad to see that Recoton has finally gone belly-up: good riddance! But dismissing AR speakers -- well, yes; if we're talking about any with a Florida company address, they're junk. But not the early ones. Those are definitely worth keeping, repairing, even reconing. Bubba Article: 323341 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "C. James Strutz" Subject: Re: How to remove paint? Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 21:16:31 -0400 Message-ID: <11jud6ndophom0c@news.supernews.com> References: <11ju7tch91hsm9b@news.supernews.com> <1128212755.195079.49710@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> "nesesu" wrote in message news:1128212755.195079.49710@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... > What kind of paint, what kind of plastic?? > Bakelite is very resistant to many paint removers, thermoplasitcs are, > generally, not. > Lacquers, acrylics and oil based paints are more difficult than latex > house paints. It's a Bendix 526B. I don't know how to tell thermoplastic from bakelite. Somebody did a really bad spray job on it with runs, overspray on the dial cover, etc. Article: 323342 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: <433ddae4$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net> <11juad6brb7ccab@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: Silvertone 4587A console Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 20:23:41 -0500 Message-ID: <433f34f9$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net> "Hagstar" wrote in message news:11juad6brb7ccab@corp.supernews.com... > I'll give you $80- ! :) If it had had the original grille cloth and finish, even a bad one, I'd gladly have given another five bucks for it too. I hate stripping paint but for this set I'll take the time. > I have a 4587 fresh from Couldztown, at least they're small footprint! > "It looked just like a full size console in the catalog....." Yeah, that's the good news. It is kinda small. So, how deep in the restoration queue is yours? paul Article: 323343 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Crazy George" References: Subject: Re: RCA transistors... need help ID'ing Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 21:40:49 -0500 Message-ID: <433f4c34_4@news1.prserv.net> Mark: That number is typical of the RCA in-house numbers of promotional device which would be subsequently labeled with a customer's number. Unless it was sold to several customers, the likelihood of it appearing on any external publication is minimal. If you want to characterize them, the only feature not externally measurable is the die process. This can be determined under a moderate power microscope (after beheading one) by someone in the semi business, or by comparing one with known RCA products of the era. OTOH, gain, power and frequency range pretty much characterize them anyway, and you can usually guess the die type, unless you also want switching speed or noise figure. The puzzle is why there is no date code, which was a must for semis back then. -- Crazy George "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:lqmdnT-lCbUXf6DeRVn-qg@comcast.com... > Gary, > more likely these were made to spec for a certain job order and were never > cataloged by RCA. > Just thought someone here could "spec them out" for me just for fun. > > Mark Oppat > > > > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message > news:mld%e.5501$oc.2982@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... > > Mark, > > > > You're right; there is no cross-reference, not even in my old SK book. > This > > leads me to believe this may not be the transistor number -- but what is? > > > > > > > > -- > > Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical > > Sound Solutions For Classic Cars > > http://www.taymanelectrical.com > > > > > > "Mark Oppat" wrote in message > > news:gs6dncooGJnrRaHeRVn-qQ@comcast.com... > > >I have a bunch of NOS RCA transisitors, possibly 350 or so, all new in > > > factory box lots. The part # is 903223, or V903223. another # is 2742 > > > with > > > a possible M after that. > > > They are TO-5 case, and PNP, it seems since resistance E-B and C-B runs > > > reverse of a NPN ECG 123A. > > > > > > anyone here can ID these? they are not in the ECG cross ref. I would > > > date > > > them from mid 60's. > > > > > > I can send samples to anyone who could test them for any further > > > characteristics. You can keep the samples. > > > > > > Mark Oppat > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Article: 323344 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Crazy George" References: Subject: Re: RCA transistors... need help ID'ing Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 21:41:27 -0500 Message-ID: <433f4c7f_2@news1.prserv.net> Mark: That number is typical of the RCA in-house numbers of promotional device which would be subsequently labeled with a customer's number. Unless it was sold to several customers, the likelihood of it appearing on any external publication is minimal. If you want to characterize them, the only feature not externally measurable is the die process. This can be determined under a moderate power microscope (after beheading one) by someone in the semi business, or by comparing one with known RCA products of the era. OTOH, gain, power and frequency range pretty much characterize them anyway, and you can usually guess the die type, unless you also want switching speed or noise figure. The puzzle is why there is no date code, which was a must for semis back then. -- Crazy George "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:lqmdnT-lCbUXf6DeRVn-qg@comcast.com... > Gary, > more likely these were made to spec for a certain job order and were never > cataloged by RCA. > Just thought someone here could "spec them out" for me just for fun. > > Mark Oppat > > > > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message > news:mld%e.5501$oc.2982@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... > > Mark, > > > > You're right; there is no cross-reference, not even in my old SK book. > This > > leads me to believe this may not be the transistor number -- but what is? > > > > > > > > -- > > Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical > > Sound Solutions For Classic Cars > > http://www.taymanelectrical.com > > > > > > "Mark Oppat" wrote in message > > news:gs6dncooGJnrRaHeRVn-qQ@comcast.com... > > >I have a bunch of NOS RCA transisitors, possibly 350 or so, all new in > > > factory box lots. The part # is 903223, or V903223. another # is 2742 > > > with > > > a possible M after that. > > > They are TO-5 case, and PNP, it seems since resistance E-B and C-B runs > > > reverse of a NPN ECG 123A. > > > > > > anyone here can ID these? they are not in the ECG cross ref. I would > > > date > > > them from mid 60's. > > > > > > I can send samples to anyone who could test them for any further > > > characteristics. You can keep the samples. > > > > > > Mark Oppat > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > From garnieatsaskteldotnet Fri Oct 7 11:48:00 EDT 2005 Article: 323345 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: garnie Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: AK-60 -- more questions than answers Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 20:51:34 -0600 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Message-ID: References: X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.93/32.576 English (American) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Complaints-To: abuse@supernews.com Lines: 43 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!canoe.uoregon.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!newsfeed.news2me.com!newsfeed2.easynews.com!newsfeed1.easynews.com!easynews.com!easynews!sn-xit-03!sn-xit-11!sn-xit-05!sn-post-01!supernews.com!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:323345 Some of those chassis have a flexible bleeder resistor off the volume control. The resistor itself is under the chassis. I had a set which wouldn't play (atleast I couldn't hear anything) and finally I came across a cold solder joint on one end of this resistor. One end of the nichrome was actually poking out of the solder a bit and I could buzz from it to the other end of the resistor just fine, but nothing if the probes were on the solder joints at each end. Some cleaning of the nichrome, and some liquid flux, and it soldered up fine. I plugged the set in and it played absolutely great! Your mileage may vary ... Regards, Garnie On Sat, 01 Oct 2005 20:10:16 GMT, "Gary Tayman" wrote: >There is one thing I can say about messing with an AK-60 -- it's a learning >experience! > >This afternoon I decided to clear off a space on my bench and set the radio >on it. I started by checking each of those dogbone resistors. Okay, this >one's blue, that one's black, and that one's yellow, so I pull out the >schematic, only to find "blue, black, yellow"! > >Well, through an afternoon's worth of research I found that AK had their own >way of marking resistors -- and all of them were WAY off. So I bit the >bullet and replaced them with modern counterparts, and saved the old ones in >case there's a way of stuffing them. > >Put it back together, set it in place across the room, and turned it on. >Volume still very weak, and the whistles are back! > >So I suppose the next step is to check the capacitors to see what's in store >for me there. When it comes to capacitors, the values are (finally!) in the >schematic -- but I'm sure I'll be fed some sort of surprise there too. > >After that, if it still doesn't work, I'll have to find a place fo rthe >speaker so I can apply power and troubleshoot. > Article: 323346 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <11ju7tch91hsm9b@news.supernews.com> Subject: Re: How to remove paint? Message-ID: Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 03:29:42 GMT A couple of things to try: On car radios I nearly always repaint the dial pointer, using fluorescent red-orange. On Delco and some others, the pointer is clear plastic, painted on the inside. I can remove this old paint quickly using lacquer thinner -- and it doesn't harm the plastic. Something else I've used with some success, is nail polish remover. If you have a small amount of paint, such as overspray, this often takes it off -- and so far I haven't hurt any plastics with it. In the world of model trains, one favorite way to remove paint from plastic car bodies is to soak it in brake fluid. Supposedly the brake fluid doesn't harm the plastic, but I've seen it turn into a satin finish that I haven't seen with lacquer thinner. Then again, the lacquer thinner does it with one wipe, where the brake fluid takes an hour or two. No matter what you do, go easy -- and if possible test an inconspicuous area before using it on outside surfaces. There are a lot of plastics out there, and just because it works with Delco dial pointers doesn't mean it's good for everything. "C. James Strutz" wrote in message news:11ju7tch91hsm9b@news.supernews.com... > How do I remove paint from a plastic cabinet without causing damage? > Article: 323347 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Radio Rambler Subject: Re: OT: Wanted - stereo chip Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 23:53:49 -0400 Message-ID: <3q93ufFdqj2qU1@individual.net> References: Engineer wrote: > Hi, vacuumlanders, > A bit off topic, well... off the time line, but I need a stereo > decoder chip for a Sansui 5050. It's an HA1196, DIP16 package, circa > 1975 and used in a lot of FM tuners of that vintage. > A google search has come up with US$1.39 each (great!) but shipping at > US$12 rather kills it unless I buy 10 (same shipping), but my max is > two! > So, does anyone have this chip to sell or exchange? Please email me > at "analogdino 'at' rogers 'dot' com". > Many thanks, and cheers, > Roger > Toronto, Canada. it has a ECG replacement ECG1484 moyers electronics has got it listed for $8.59 plus shipping. there is no minimum order. http://www.moyerelectronics.com/ mouser electronics has got the NTE replacement for $5.95 however, your better off going for the one that you quoted in your OP. considering that a IC that old is still availble at all. most analog audio chips of that age has allready been discontinued allready & are not available at any price. -- The Shadow Knows Article: 323348 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Sony 8-301W is this the right newsgroup?? Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 21:54:38 -0600 Message-ID: References: thx guys. ill pass the info along! randy Article: 323349 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Message-ID: Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 03:54:21 GMT Mark, Perhaps you should have your website partially up, and testing. Then slowly add on all the features and merchandise when you go full throttle! That way, you can eliminate the time wasting B.S. you were complaining about. Web sites are like EBay, you can do the stuff on your down time. Anyways, my $0.02 Omer "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:MKWdnW6i-fEnfKDeRVn-hg@comcast.com... > Dave, you got that right! I was selling fairly heavy on ebay all last > winter... it was mostly pretty easy and I like it best because I can do it > on my schedule...when ever I have time. > > Mark Oppat > > > "David Stinson" wrote in message > news:Yl9%e.1348$4h2.1085@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> >> Now you know why I swore off of selling anything directly >> on a newsgroup, Mark. >> One nice thing about Ebay is that it supplies a framework >> of routines to which people usually adhere, >> bypassing all that frustrating fiddle-dee-dee. >> D.S. >> >> > > > Article: 323350 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 22:01:46 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128111521.103662.260350@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128186648.617612.148860@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1128206043.043191.201430@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> like cal said, they've had some good products. imho people who buy B&O dont buy it for the sound, but because it looks cool and scores high on the gadget meter. its the bose for people with money. randy "Peter Wieck" wrote in message news:1128206043.043191.201430@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > You think well of B&O. Why? > > I find it to be ineffable crap. But that is just my opinion... and > having dealt with people who feel much the same about AR speakers, I > have learned to be tolerant of deviants. > > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA > Article: 323351 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Message-ID: Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 04:09:11 GMT Mark, I understand all of what you're saying, but there's one thing that seems to be misunderstood about websites. They are NOT a form of advertising! Uploading a website isn't going to bring you hoardes of customers the first day. Trust me, it's going to do very little in terms of capturing customers. The website does this: AFTER a customer finds out about your business, he may look at your website to see what you offer. If he wants knobs for his old radio, he may be forwarded to the website, which will explain the fact that knobs are available, and will explain who to call ot e-mail and how to order. In my case, which I'll use for an example simply because this is where I have experience, I wrote the website to answer questions about radio repair and stereo conversions. Sure, I threw in a few keywords and worked on getting the search engines to discover my page, but the cast majority of customers -- even now -- were directed to this site after finding my name elsewhere. To a small degree a website can be counterproductive -- members of the general public may find it, and send you an e-mail asking for a remote control for a Hitachi big screen TV. You, as well as I, run specialized businesses which cater to special interests, so we should keep our advertising geared toward the markets we serve. That's fine with our websites because, although you'll get a small amount of traffic from web surfers, generally the only people who will visit it are those who have been directed to it from elsewhere. A good advertising campaign would be to run ads which direct customers to your website, then display your products on the site. If you're worried about too much/too little customer traffic, you can regulate it with the number of ads you run. But don't shy away from having a website due to fear of too much business. What you'll get from the website are customers who, before asking you questions, have already received many of your answers before they came calling. It was mentioned you may want to do inventory control. This can be done to some degree when using online shopping. In my case it does inventory, but I drop ship most products so I just set everything to 1,000 in stock just to get the products up. If I were you I'd forget taking/posting thousands of photos, and just make a simple site which explains that you have knobs -- and if someone has a need, instructions on how to send an order and describe the knob. I had the website for years before I added online shopping, and to be honest I've received very little traffic from the online shopping side. It pays for itself, so there's no reason to drop it, but if this page were my livelihood I'd starve. Unless you have some hot selling products, the online shopping -- or even the photos of each and every knob -- is not worth it. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:HtGdnW2XDM2hfKDeRVn-gw@comcast.com... > No, Gary, > the reason I have not set up a website is I dont want to unleash the FLOOD > of business before I am better organized to handle it. My wife is helping > me more and more now since she left retail last year after 24 years with > the > same company. > > When the collectors see what I have here, they are gonna be ordering and > asking all kinds of questions, and I just dont want that yet. That is > the > only reason, honest. My customers now are mostly pretty knowledgable, > and > I like that. Every so often I get a bunch of the "20 emails for a knob" > types.. and that just drives me nuts. > > I am working on getting a lot of stuff better set up for higher volume > sales. My first step was to sell off a bunch of the spare books, > "audiophile" type tubes and high end consoles I have been hoarding for > years. That is almost done. I sold about 18 consoles last year from my > own > collection. Next, I need to better organize the shop for incoming repairs > and sets waiting to be picked up. > > I just bought a 4 unit apt house next door, and it has a carriage barn > with > it that has a loft, I am building stairs to that so I can put the lesser > used stock up there... its about 400 sf up there. I have just spent the > better part of 5 weeks getting three units fixed up and rented. > > Then, I have a 2.5 car garage stuffed with stock and customer sets. I > also have two other locations filled. I have now freed up some space in > the > shop that needs to be fully reorganized for the Blais dials.... its a > long > haul... so, that is what is going on. > > Also, I have a full house repaint going on with a victorian era rental > house > down the street... gotta replace lots of trim that was removed when they > put > the crappy > "Insul-Brick" siding on in the 40's. Some of it has to be made at a > millwork shop. This stuff takes much of my time. It will decrease > hopefully to zero by Nov. 1. and I can go back to full time radio work. > As > it is now, I am still turning out about 2 sets a week anyways.... and, > filling the parts orders. > Last weekend I did another sound/lighting gig on Sat/Sun for an old buddy > who hires me about 4 times a year... it was a hair/nail fashion event > with > a total of about 10 PA/lighting systems, some in "break out" rooms, some > in > a trade show area. I had 4 rooms to set up/monitor. > Plus, I am the publicity agent for MARC, and I am appearing on a well > known > talk show tomorrow morning (WXYT AM 1270, Detroit area,... might be on the > web too... 8am-10am the "Appliance Doctor show") so there goes tomorrow > morning.... > egads. > > Mark Oppat > > > > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message > news:Pl9%e.1347$4h2.662@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> Mark, >> >> Following this thread, it appears you don't want to set up a website > because >> it's a ton of extra work to build and maintain. >> >> Bzzzztt!!! -- WRONG! Anything new that you haven't tried yet may seem >> complicated and cumbersome, but that's not the case. You might get a >> program like Front Page, and you may have to study it for a little while, >> and then it all clicks -- gee, that's easy! Once you've set up a website >> you'll love the fact that you have it. >> >> Years ago I was getting lots of e-mails, asking the same questions over > and >> over. What is a conversion? How much does it cost? What do I do? How >> long does it take? They're all legitimate questions, but I was wearing >> myself out answering them over and over again. >> >> I started out by writing a few macros. With the click of a couple of >> keys > I >> could get a paragraph or two explaining prices and turnaround times. >> This >> made things easier, but it was still a nuisance. After about a week of >> doing that I decided to put up a website. >> >> I checked into HTML software (remember this was about 8 years ago) and > found >> all sorts of programs that had you writing HTML code. GEEZ, I remember > the >> bad ol' days of writing code in MS-DOS, or even CP/M and BASIC! I > couldn't >> believe that the general public was making websites by writing it all out > in >> code! Shopping around I found Claris Home Page, and brought it home. > This >> had several disks, a book that resembled the Yellow Pages, and I believe >> a >> few templates. Turns out that 99% of it was backgrounds and crap, and >> the >> program itself -- without the fluff -- was extremely simple. Although I >> wouldn't recommend it now (unless there's an updated version), I was >> using >> Claris up until last year. Today I use Front Page. >> >> There is only one bugaboo in the whole process, and that is uploading the >> website to the server. For this I use WS-FTP. There are various >> versions >> of this, and some of them are free and downloadable. The bugaboo is with >> setup -- you have to plug in all of the addresses and such. However once >> this is done, uploading is also a piece of cake. >> >> Front Page is a lot like Word -- in fact you can write websites in Word, > but >> it's buggy. Go into Front Page and type what you want -- use whatever >> fonts, whatever sizes, and import your GIF or JPG graphics where you want >> them. You may also choose a background color, or put in a background >> pattern. One word of caution: don't go crazy with fonts; try to use the >> standard ones, such as Times New Roman or Arial. If you use something > like >> Helvetica Light, more than likely the fellow viewing it doesn't have this >> font on his computer, and it will substitute something else -- and look >> funny. >> >> Once you've got your page the way you want it, go into WS-FTP. Copy all > the >> files from the left column to the right column, and you're done! If you >> make an update, which is usually to the home page called index.html, just >> make the changes, go to WS-FTP, and copy index.html from the left to the >> right It only takes seconds. >> >> There is another way to write a website. Some places offer web hosting. >> One such is Sam's Club -- if you buy their super deluxe membership card, >> they provide web hosting. You go to your website using Netscape or > Internet >> Explorer, go to ADMIN, and sign in. From there you can "write" your page >> online, using software on the site that you don't have to download. It's > a >> little strange at first, but once you get used to it it's easy. The good >> news here is that you have unlimited help. Call those guys on the phone >> with your questions, and they'll walk you through it. In the case of > Sam's, >> they are extremely helpful. The advantage of Sam's is the online >> shopping >> feature -- someone may click on an item to buy it, and I'll get an e-mail >> with the information. >> >> If you want an example of both ways to do it, take a look at mine. I >> actually have two websites, and believe it or not I have two home pages. >> Most of my stuff is on the side that's written in Front Page. The >> "other" >> home page, and the online shopping, is done with the Sam's Club hosting. >> You could, theoretically, put each and every knob on the online shopping >> site -- and let me tell you this is tedious work, but it's NOT mandatory > by >> any stretch. However you might want to at least look at how it's done -- >> for example, click on the credit card logo on my first home page. You > will >> be asked to fill out a form, which will be sent to me by secure e-mail. > You >> could write a form like this which would ask for knob color, shaft >> length, >> etc. >> >> In any case, here are the URL's: >> >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> This is my normal home page. You may navigate anywhere from here, and >> you >> may notice the change in appearance if you click on the "Don't cut that >> dash" portion, which takes you to the online shopping page. Also from > this >> home page, you can click on the credit card logo which will present you > with >> a form to fill out. >> >> My "other" home page is at: >> >> http://www.taymanelectrical.samsbiz.com >> >> The reason I wrote the second page, I'm a Custom Autosound dealer. > Strange, >> I sell very few stereos, but I indeed sell a lot of speakers -- with >> conversions. In any case I wrote this page for the purpose of linking it >> from Custom Autosound's page. Notice the stereo conversions are >> downplayed -- they wouldn't like a link from their website to another >> site >> that features their competitor! >> >> Anyway, you're invited to take a look. No, this is not commercial, as I >> don't think the people on this newsgroup are interested in car stereos. > So >> disregard the products -- look at the site itself. >> >> >> -- >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> >> "Mark Oppat" wrote in message >> news:t4GdnbGmbpT466HeRVn-tA@comcast.com... >> > You all know, I have tons of parts here, like fresh stock capacitors, >> > rare controls, tubes, and, lots of knobs.But this parts business is > just >> > driving me crazy lately. Here's why: >> > >> > Instead of sending me an email stating clearly what they need, I get >> > about >> > 12 emails, all to sell one measly $10 knob. It goes like this: >> > >> > email #1: >> > Hi, I was referred by xxx and he says you sell knobs. do you? >> > >> > Me: yes. send me a pix or tell me what set >> > >> > Email #2 >> > Its brown and has swirls. goes on a Crosley. >> > >> > Me: OK, that narrows it down to about 1000 types. I need to know the >> > shaft >> > type, the size, and really, need a pix or model and brand of set. >> > >> > #3: I have attached a pix. >> > Me: that pix is so dark, and you shot it from the other room. take > the >> > knob you want matched off and shoot it closer. >> > >> > #4 : OK heres a better shot >> > Me: OK now I see it. You only shot the front, what shaft does this > fit? >> > >> > #5: 1/4" >> > Me: half round, serrated or full round??? >> > >> > #6: half round. >> > me: let me check >> > >> > #7 OK, I found it. $10 + $2 post >> > >> > (two weeks later) >> > #8 I need a knob for a Crosley 515 >> > Me: do you still want the knob I found for you 2 weeks ago? >> > >> > #9 oh, yeah, thats for this, I forgot. How much for it? >> > Me: $10+ $2 post. send money, here's my address, I take paypal, MO, >> > checks. >> > >> > #10: can you send me a pix of your knob so I can see it? >> > >> > ..........!!!!!!!!! >> > >> > and it just keeps on and on and on!!! I now get between 12 and 25 >> > radio >> > emails per DAY. >> > >> > I try to be nice to folks but my patience just is gone now....Its > getting >> > to >> > be 45mins or more, in emails and searching , just for one stinking >> > knob....almost no one every emails saying "HI, I need a knob for a >> > Crosley >> > 515, it fits a 1/4" half round shaft. Here is a clear pix for > reference". >> > THAT would do it, all in ONE email! >> > >> > I hope anyone looking for knobs sees this and reforms before they >> > inquire.... I am about ready to quit selling parts... its sure not as >> > profitable as restoring radios. >> > >> > and, dont say a website is the answer, there is no way I am going to > shoot >> > pix of every knob I own... eventually I will have pix of the most > common >> > ones though. >> > >> > so, please have mercy on the parts man... >> > >> > Mark Oppat >> > >> > >> > >> >> >> > > > Article: 323352 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: CTC-10 remote control problems Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 21:07:41 -0700 Message-ID: <5694-433F5D0D-421@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net> References: <1128223898.004980.131540@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Frenchy, I'm unfamiliar with the remote system you have there, and this is strictly a shot in the dark. But is there a 'toggle' function performed by one button that swtiches another set of buttons between functions? F'rinstance, another brand's system used the sound mute button to toggle the channel up/down function over to control tint, and the volume up/down buttons over to control color up/down. Of course if your system uses all-dedicated buttons, disregard the above. Bill(oc) Article: 323353 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: AK-60 -- more questions than answers Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 21:21:14 -0700 Message-ID: <5694-433F603A-422@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net> References: Gary, This may be a dumb question, but have you verified that the speaker field is energized? If it's not, residual magnetism will still allow the speaker to work but at greatly reduced volume. Regarding the whistles and birdies on a TRF set, have you tried shutting off all nearby devices that contain a switching power supply? Bill(oc) Article: 323354 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43394ECC.EDC3E044@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Anyone need a old tube type Ham Amp ?? References: <4338AAB3.6B5F4BF7@earthlink.net> Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 13:53:16 GMT Larry wrote: > > "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in > news:4338AAB3.6B5F4BF7@earthlink.net: > > > I gave up on CB radio when I graduated from High school in 1970. > > > > -- > > ? > > > > Michael A. Terrell > > Central Florida > > > > > > Aw, C'mon Michael! CB is still a lot of fun on a trip. Larry, I can't take trips. The one hour ride to the VA hospital in Gainsville leaves me in pain even though I'm riding in a full size DAV van like some companies use as an airport "Limo". > I've been a CBer > since I was a ham. FCC just screwed up giving them the 11 meter ham band, > that's all, more bureaucratic bungling-as-usual. Class A CB on 460Mhz > was/is very useful. My first CB call started with 20W in upstate NY. It > was a Knight Kit that had a 6AW8? transmitter...something like that. > Regenerative receiver and a vertical dipole up 60' between two 2X4s nailed > to a big pine tree sticking out sideways. When CB came on there was no > rules about working DX. I used to chat with 6W3202, a call I can never > seem to forget. He was a Smokey Mountains National Park ranger who used to > go up on Clingman's Dome (mountain top) and work DX. Great fun on the > little regen transceiver with the tape recorder mic. There was a lever > knob on a momentary-contact rotary switch on the front of the Bud box the > kit was built into. I remember having to wind my own coils on the kit's > forms. Knight Kit CB-1 I think its number was. Rich folks could afford > Globe and Gonset and Raytheon radios with more than one channel....(c; > > You had to be 18 to hold a CB license. I was 13 or 14, I forget. My > mother was terrified I would be drafted by the Army when that license came. > I lied about my age...(c; My did signed the application when I was in high school. KDL-1069 > Heathkit came out with this black leatherette box with a chrome grillwork > in the front. It had one big, black knob in the front that was the volume > control. The speaker was also the mic. A little red button on the side > keyed its tiny transmitter, something like 100mw. That was my first CB > walkie talkie and every kid wanted one. I used to be able to build one in > about an hour from scratch without the instructions after the first 10 or > so...like the HW-12, 22, 32 and HW-18 for Civil Air Patrol on 4 Mhz USB. I > built hundreds of Heathkits for a lot of people in high school. > > -- > Larry > I bought two 5W CB walkies, all 40 channels, Radio Shack TRC-222 from the > thrift shop for $8. One had a bad battery jack. The other one worked > fine. Has an RCA antenna jack on the side for your 108" stainless > whip...(c; I have a half dozen CB radios laying around, but no interest to even see if they work. The last time I used one was in 1987. I had it in my step van when I moved from Ohio to Florida. It was on the whole 1000 mile trip for two trips south and one trip north. What little I heard on it was a waste of time and materials to install it. No one reported wrecks or blocked roads ahead, or alerted anyone to bad drivers on the interstate. All I heard saw garbage like the foul mouthed flame fests on the rec.radio.amateur newsgroups for over 3000 boring miles where I could barely pick up a radio station for news or music. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323355 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 03:55:36 -0600 Message-ID: References: absolutely. there seems to be this general attitude out there that if you build a website people will magically come flying to it. in most cases you would do better to set up a board on two milk crates by the side of the road in terms of getting new customers. randy > I understand all of what you're saying, but there's one thing that seems > to be misunderstood about websites. They are NOT a form of advertising! > Uploading a website isn't going to bring you hoardes of customers the > first day. Trust me, it's going to do very little in terms of capturing > customers. Article: 323356 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Lou deGonzague Subject: Re: AK-60 -- more questions than answers References: <5694-433F603A-422@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 12:15:02 GMT Here are a couple websites that might help, http://www.atwaterkent.info/ Check out the modern drawings http://www.atwaterkent.info/TechData/akDrawingIndex.html Bill Sheppard wrote: > Gary, > This may be a dumb question, but have you verified that > the speaker field is energized? If it's not, residual magnetism will > still allow the speaker to work but at greatly reduced volume. > Regarding the whistles and birdies on a TRF set, have > you tried shutting off all nearby devices that contain a switching power > supply? > Bill(oc) > Article: 323357 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ron in Radio Heaven Subject: BA Transmitter 2 pin mic connectors Message-ID: Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 14:42:16 GMT For all you BA transmitter guys, here's a link to a page with info about 2 pin microphone plugs and panel mount connectors. http://radioheaven.homestead.com/2pinmicplug.html Please email me directly if you're interested. 73, Ron kc4yoy (AT) carolina.rr.com Article: 323358 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Zenith Radio Phono question Message-ID: Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 14:53:22 GMT Model 12H090 A friend down the street is working on this for his sister in law. There's an out-rigger preamp for the phono but it is missing the tube. It's an 8-pin Loctal. Any suggestions? Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323359 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jon" References: Subject: Re: Not my auction, but this would be a great addition to someone's bench! Message-ID: Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 14:59:22 GMT "Brenda Ann" wrote in message news:dhlpug$697$1@news2.kornet.net... > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6566165959&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1 > Invalid Item This listing (6566165959) has been removed by eBay or is no longer available. Please make sure that you've entered the item number correctly. If the item was removed by eBay, please consider this transaction canceled. If anybody contacts you to complete the sale, please ignore the request. Completing the sale outside of eBay may be unsafe and will not be covered by eBay purchase protection programs. Article: 323360 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: AK-60 -- more questions than answers Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 08:53:27 -0600 Message-ID: <12838-433FF467-206@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> References: First does it matter on this set if the resistors or wire are original ? these are real common low value radios anyway . If those resistors test close to what they should be put them back . The inside hole in them is about the size of pencil led . Do a quick ohm test on the transformers volume control and speaker field coil . I have fixed dozens of these AK type chassis over the years and none of them sounded real clear .. always a bit distorted on most stations . Fixing resistor values did little if anything unless one was totaly open I understand if this is a fun pesonalized project for your collection I just dont want to see you knock yourself out expecting a super preforming radio . Article: 323361 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <433FFA93.5DB9629D@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! References: Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 15:18:53 GMT xrongor wrote: > > absolutely. there seems to be this general attitude out there that if you > build a website people will magically come flying to it. in most cases you > would do better to set up a board on two milk crates by the side of the road > in terms of getting new customers. > > randy > > > I understand all of what you're saying, but there's one thing that seems > > to be misunderstood about websites. They are NOT a form of advertising! > > Uploading a website isn't going to bring you hoardes of customers the > > first day. Trust me, it's going to do very little in terms of capturing > > customers. Randy, my first website didn't show up on Google for over four months. I have a couple other sites with no links from the outside that still haven't been found by search engines, which is fine because I don't want them listed. They are used for schematics or pictures of projects, and will be replaced with other files at random times. The only way to get a lot of traffic is to have a site with very wide appeal and a lot of content. You don't have to let everyone in the world know what's going on, till you are ready. Mark, I like the idea of photos of the knobs, done properly. With an index by brand, model and part number it would help people identify the knob they need without you having to do so much work each time. Do a few a week, starting with the most popular. Also start a section of unknown knobs that you can't identify. Over a few years it can evolve into a knob database that can be put on a CDROM and sold to radio collectors. If you decide to go with a shopping cart, you will have the pictures to go with the product. Another approach is to put the prices on a separate page where you list them however you want. I would do it by brand/model/function/all, but its up to you. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323362 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "william_b_noble" References: <1127595696.26394af8e834cf36b953e212c350d598@teranews> Subject: Re: HP 432 RF power meter Message-ID: <1128266452.ba8a72834346c4ba5a27aa7cb391b11b@teranews> Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 08:20:29 -0700 I relisted this item with a lower price, if you would like one for your bench (or for parts - though they probably work) here's the new link http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7550982349 also listed some more car radios and an old ford spotlight should that stuff strike your fancy (cheap) http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8004360128 & http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8004361620 & http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4579637664 & http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7551003555 & "william_b_noble" wrote in message news:1127595696.26394af8e834cf36b953e212c350d598@teranews... > picked up two of these, one is on e-bay here: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7549187829 > > I will end up selling both - if you are interested, feel free to contact > me off the list. > > use this email (remove spaces, etc) > > william_ b_ noble at MSN daught com > > -- > Bill > Article: 323363 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <433FFB7C.83617738@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Zenith Radio Phono question References: Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 15:22:46 GMT Jeffrey D Angus wrote: > > Model 12H090 > > A friend down the street is working on this for his sister in law. > There's an out-rigger preamp for the phono but it is missing the > tube. It's an 8-pin Loctal. Any suggestions? > > Jeff > -- > RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to > the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal > force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED > under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Is there a chassis number? I have all the early Sams record changer manuals, and I might be able to find something. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323364 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "william_b_noble" References: Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Message-ID: <1128266710.851f6b02f4f320e92a757fa558531bf2@teranews> Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 08:24:51 -0700 it depends on your time frame - my site draws folks two ways - word of mouth/email (I get inquiries for my site url), and via google type searching - when folks buy faceplates and pumps from me, I assume it's frequenty word of mouth, but when someone finds some obscure item that I've forgotten about listed on the site, I am pretty sure that it was from using a search engine. but it takes a long time for the spiders to crawl the web and find you and your stuff, and exact phrases are important. bill "xrongor" wrote in message news:dhoaqn$4su2$1@news3.infoave.net... > absolutely. there seems to be this general attitude out there that if you > build a website people will magically come flying to it. in most cases > you would do better to set up a board on two milk crates by the side of > the road in terms of getting new customers. > > randy > >> I understand all of what you're saying, but there's one thing that seems >> to be misunderstood about websites. They are NOT a form of advertising! >> Uploading a website isn't going to bring you hoardes of customers the >> first day. Trust me, it's going to do very little in terms of capturing >> customers. > > Article: 323365 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 09:31:05 -0600 Message-ID: <12837-433FFD39-769@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> References: <433DE4F8.8B4BCF86@optonline.net> A good thing to have on a website is one of those forms that MUST have every question blank filled out or pull down menu selected or it wont let the email go through . Mark i dont know you well .. Is your shop a big mess of piles and boxes all piled around like most guys i know ??? having things in order can save hours and days of time hunting for stuff . I have worked in sales for the public in every job i had . It does not matter how perfect you do your business there are always a few people who can never be pleased or helped . An example last week .. I sold a guy a battery powered miter saw missing the battery and charger . I told him you MIGHT be able to find a battery or you could modify the plastic lip to fit anoter battery IF you are good at that sort of thing . I sold him the saw for 5$ ( thats five dollars )as-is no returns . The Following week he came back and said he cant find a battery and wants to bring it back . I said no i sold that to you cheap as-is and you agreed ... the guy went nuts over loosing 5$ and the fact i told him he COULD find a battery with no problem then said he would never come back again . All i can figure is these type of people can only hear a loud hum inside their head and just dont hear what is said . That is the very first time ever had a 5$ as-is item try to come back .. I`m glad the guy kicked himself out :-) Article: 323366 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 12:50:09 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: AK-60 -- more questions than answers References: <12838-433FF467-206@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Ken G. wrote: > First does it matter on this set if the resistors or wire are original ? > these are real common low value radios anyway . > > I have fixed dozens of these AK type chassis over the years and none of > them sounded real clear .. always a bit distorted on most stations . > Fixing resistor values did little if anything unless one was totaly open > I understand if this is a fun pesonalized project for your collection > I just dont want to see you knock yourself out expecting a super > preforming radio . > One of the nice things about a hobby is you can do things half-a$$ed or to the best of your ability...there's no time card to punch or boss jumping on your back...maybe not even a financial consideration. Its only to please the individual himself. I remember doing stuff like building birdhouses in Cub Scouts. They may have come out looking awful but I was proud of them because I put forth effort and did it to the best of my ability. Hobbying wouldn't be much fun if you didn't come out with some pride from your accomplishments. -Bill Article: 323367 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" Subject: FS: Zenith 7J259 Console Message-ID: Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 13:24:37 -0500 Anybody want to buy my 7J259? It works great and looks great. It could use a new dial belt, it slips sometimes. All the caps were replaced a few years back. What do you think is a fair price? http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/2591.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/2592.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/2593.jpg -- 73 and good DX. B.H. Brian's Radio Universe http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/500.htm Article: 323368 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 13:17:23 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128111521.103662.260350@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128186648.617612.148860@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1128206043.043191.201430@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> "John Stone" wrote in message news:BF658A84.27372%jmsent2@comcast.net... > > > > On 10/1/05 5:34 PM, in article > 1128206043.043191.201430@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com, "Peter Wieck" > wrote: > >> You think well of B&O. Why? >> >> I find it to be ineffable crap. But that is just my opinion... and >> having dealt with people who feel much the same about AR speakers, I >> have learned to be tolerant of deviants. >> > Peter, why do you think B&O is "ineffable crap"? > I worked for B&O for 8 years, from 1984 to 1992 in their technical > department. I traveled to Denmark 5-10 times a year and worked directly > with > their engineers. The fact is, they have one of the most advanced > loudspeaker development facilities in all of Europe-way ahead of anything > AR > ever dreamed of. They have been heavily involved in pure research, > partnering with the likes of KEF and a number of prestigious universities. > They have tremendous capabilities both in development and manufacture. > Now, as for their products: B&O has always been about melding form and > function. They long ago gave up making speakers in rectangular wood boxes, > concentrating rather on modern materials and shapes. So much of their > research has concentrated on getting high performance from less than ideal > cabinets. They have done this by going for active speakers with internal > compensation, some using digital amps with thousands of watts of output. > I cannot believe that those who consider the new Beolab 5 as junk have > ever > seriously auditioned it. This speaker is an engineering tour de force, > that > sounds incredibly good. In some respects it approaches state of the art. > The > built in measuring program with the motorized microphone isn't just a > gimmick, it actually does work by using complex algorithms to sense room > modes via delta measurements. for the record i never said they are junk. just way way way way way overpriced. but this is a serious question. how does a microphone in the speaker itself have all that much to do with making it sound good at the listeners position? how can those mic's tell if im sitting in a bass null spot in the room or if someone is standing between me and the speakers? randy Article: 323369 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? From: Larry References: <1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128111521.103662.260350@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128186648.617612.148860@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1128206043.043191.201430@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 16:43:26 -0400 John Stone wrote in news:BF658A84.27372%jmsent2@comcast.net: > I cannot believe that those who consider the new Beolab 5 as junk have > ever seriously auditioned it. This speaker is an engineering tour de > force, that sounds incredibly good. In some respects it approaches > state of the art. They never heard them. They think 6V6 in push pull sounds good all mushy and distorted. Thanks for your post, John. Those ARE the finest sounding speakers I ever heard. It was an amazing demonstration. -- Larry Article: 323370 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Zenith Radio Phono question References: <433FFB7C.83617738@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 21:11:13 GMT Bill Cohn wrote: > The missing tube is a 7F7 and this is a special preamp for Zenith Cobra > cartridges. This is NOT a magnetic cartridge preamp. Thanks Bill And yeah, I should have mentioned that it was indeed a Cobra. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323371 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: CTC-10 remote control problems Message-ID: References: <1128223898.004980.131540@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <5694-433F5D0D-421@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net> <1128286233.472444.227480@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 21:58:34 GMT Frenchy, It might be something like a latching relay for motor reversal. Hit the button once, and the motor runs forward as long as you hold the button. Hit it again, and it runs in reverse. I seem to remember an old Clairtone I had that did that. Gordon Richmond Article: 323372 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43405BF4.528C7FB@optonline.net> From: Sal Brisindi Subject: Re: FS: Zenith 7J259 Console References: Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 18:15:17 -0400 Hi Brian, Nice radio, looks great. I wouldn't mind owning another Zenith but they are not cheap... Regards, Sal Brian Hill wrote: > Anybody want to buy my 7J259? It works great and looks great. It could use a > new dial belt, it slips sometimes. All the caps were replaced a few years > back. What do you think is a fair price? > > http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/2591.jpg > http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/2592.jpg > http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/2593.jpg > > -- > 73 and good DX. B.H. > Brian's Radio Universe > http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/500.htm Article: 323373 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "C. James Strutz" Subject: Re: How to remove paint? Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 18:39:59 -0400 Message-ID: <11k0ocu53i7t1fb@news.supernews.com> References: <11ju7tch91hsm9b@news.supernews.com> "C. James Strutz" wrote in message news:11ju7tch91hsm9b@news.supernews.com... > How do I remove paint from a plastic cabinet without causing damage? I stripped the cabinet today. Just a few specks remain in the corners and hard to get places. There were three layers of paint. I found a place where the cabinet was broken and repaired. It's a nice looking radio and in other wise good condition. Thanks for all your help... Article: 323374 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: Not my auction, but this would be a great addition to someone's bench! Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 07:51:20 +0900 Message-ID: References: "Jon" wrote in message news:eBS%e.17341$Xl2.12966@twister.nyroc.rr.com... > > "Brenda Ann" wrote in message > news:dhlpug$697$1@news2.kornet.net... >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6566165959&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1 >> > > > Invalid Item > This listing (6566165959) has been removed by eBay or is no longer > available. Please make sure that you've entered the item number correctly. > If the item was removed by eBay, please consider this transaction > canceled. If anybody contacts you to complete the sale, please ignore the > request. Completing the sale outside of eBay may be unsafe and will not be > covered by eBay purchase protection programs. > > Don't ask me HOW ebay screwed up their own link, but this one's right off the auction itself, which is still up. http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-4-Tube-Signal-Generator-and-Frequency-Modulator_W0QQitemZ6566617618QQcategoryZ38034QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Article: 323375 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jon" References: Subject: Re: Not my auction, but this would be a great addition to someone's bench! Message-ID: Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 23:03:39 GMT "Brenda Ann" wrote in message news:dhpo53$als$1@news2.kornet.net... > Don't ask me HOW ebay screwed up their own link, but this one's right off > the auction itself, which is still up. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-4-Tube-Signal-Generator-and-Frequency-Modulator_W0QQitemZ6566617618QQcategoryZ38034QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Turns out that it was relisted. eBay cancelled the original auction because the lister put something in there about donating to a pet shelter. Go figure. Jon Article: 323376 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Hagstar Subject: Re: Silvertone 4587A console Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 19:35:34 -0400 Message-ID: <11k0rmdngra2sd1@corp.supernews.com> References: <433ddae4$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net> <11juad6brb7ccab@corp.supernews.com> <433f34f9$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net> Paul Dietenberger wrote: > > > Yeah, that's the good news. It is kinda small. So, how deep in the > restoration queue is yours? > 2009 :) John H. Article: 323377 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <12838-433FF467-206@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> Subject: AK-60 Working! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 00:08:13 GMT Today I decided to spend a little more time with the AK. I printed out the "new" schematic -- with the intent of highlighting every component that has been replaced or tested. However before taking it anywhere, I thought it might be wise to check the speaker. Field coil is fine, but the voice coil is open! I looked inside the speaker, only to find a thin wire dangling. But there's good news! It appears this speaker was made before glue was invented, and I can take the speaker apart. I did exactly that, and found the problem is a broken solder joint where the stiff voice coil wire meets the flex wire. Removed the old tape, resoldered, installed (ahem) a piece of Scotch Magic Transparent tape, reassembled, and now the radio is singing its heart out. Of course I'm not done yet -- before this unit gets played very much I still want to go through the caps. In fact I had it on for about 15 minutes and began to hear some serious distortion -- which means leaky caps. So I'll be getting back into it before too long. I suppose some people on this list have seen more than their share of these radios; for me this is the first one. As to whether it's as rare and valuable as say, a McMurdo Silver, I suppose not. Still, it's the most unusual set in my collection so far, and definitely a departure from what I normally work on. I don't know just how quickly it will happen, but I think this is a "restorable" radio. By that I mean a total restoration is within reach. It's already in pretty nice condition; I can disassemble it, clean up the chassis, and begin assembly using new wires that match the original. If new capacitors and resistors can be stuffed I'll use them, and I'll strip and repaint each one of those capacitor cans. Finally I'll repaint the case. But for now I think I'll do a recap, ensure everything's proper, then go to my next radio project which is that Philco 54. Of course that's not all I do. In between all of this I did a conversion on a radio from a 57 T-Bird; I also pulled the radio out of my car and upgraded the conversion to a new version 8 which just came out, then reinstalled it and ran tests. I also finished recapping and aligning a 55 Ford.with round dial -- not to mention yik-yakking on this newsgroup. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "TerryJ" wrote in message news:o--dnfTsF9Gp-93eRVn-tw@comcast.com... > > "Bill" wrote in message > news:cd90e$43400fc6$4232bd23$25789@COQUI.NET... >> >> One of the nice things about a hobby is you can do things half-a$$ed or >> to the best of your ability...there's no time card to punch or boss >> jumping on your back...maybe not even a financial consideration. Its >> only to please the individual himself. >> >> I remember doing stuff like building birdhouses in Cub Scouts. They may >> have come out looking awful but I was proud of them because I put forth >> effort and did it to the best of my ability. Hobbying wouldn't be much >> fun if you didn't come out with some pride from your accomplishments. >> >> -Bill > > AMEN! Article: 323378 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 18:12:03 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128111521.103662.260350@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128186648.617612.148860@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1128206043.043191.201430@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> "John Stone" wrote in message news:BF65D627.273A1%jmsent2@comcast.net... > On 10/2/05 2:17 PM, in article dhpbo2$5abl$1@news3.infoave.net, "xrongor" > wrote: > > >> for the record i never said they are junk. just way way way way way >> overpriced. > > For myself they are too expensive as well. But isn't this an individual > value judgment? The same can be said for Rolex watches, Jaguar cars, and > Subzero fridges. I wouldn't want these, but many people do. I don't have > real close contact with B&O these days, but I do know this speaker has > been > a commercial success, selling in far greater numbers than forecast. And > keeping in mind that this speaker also includes amplifiers, it isn't > *quite* > as expensive as it first appears. Certainly there's nothing like it > anywhere > else, and some people with means are clearly glad to pay the price. sure they are. in fact i bet if the price was lower, sales would have been lower. you see the same people driving hummers back and forth to the store for groceries. i also suspect that the 'powered speaker' part had lots to do with it and made it easier for people to hook up 4 zone systems in their house. the kind of thing that only people with money and true audioheads would do. i have no doubt they sound great. for 16k they better sound great >> but this is a serious question. how does a microphone in the speaker >> itself >> have all that much to do with making it sound good at the listeners >> position? how can those mic's tell if im sitting in a bass null spot in >> the >> room or if someone is standing between me and the speakers? >> > It obviously can't, nor does B&O claim it can. First off, the eq is only > for > the bass. Second, it is a one time calibration procedure designed to be > done > when the speakers are moved or the room furnishing is changed. > Essentially, > the speaker compensates for room placement, and can determine total room > modes based on differential measurement. This goes a long way towards > cleaning up the bottom end. I'm sure it assumes a certain listening window > for best performance. Here's a link with a pretty good explanation. > > http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article.asp?section_id=1&article_id=480&pag > e_number=2&preview= its a neat gadget. its still a gaget. i suspect you could get 90% of the way there with a 30$ spl meter, a 20$ calibration disc, and a 200$ parametric eq. > > BTW, I for one don't believe in trying to equalize out steep room dips at > the listening position. It creates far more problems than it solves. i dont either. if you really have a problem, and you probably dont, 2 subs is a much better solution imho generally i believe in the 'enough is enough and more is just more' theory of speakers. flat response is flat response, and isnt really that desirable. things like imaging which really matter is largely voodoo. pleasant distortion. and imho has as much to do with speaker placement as about anything else... im sure these speakers have much more versatility in placement than most. randy Article: 323379 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: AK-60 Working! Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 17:54:36 -0700 Message-ID: <4154-4340814C-471@storefull-3175.bay.webtv.net> References: Gary, Good job on that speaker! Just curious- with an open voice coil, what were you hearing? Laminations in the AF transformers? Bill(oc) Article: 323380 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 19:18:52 -0600 Message-ID: <13319-434086FC-787@storefull-3255.bay.webtv.net> References: I have to say B&O always was for the most part far above the rest . I have owned several pieces of older B&O equipment and they were always very good if you use them like they were intended and very unique in design . The only unit left me wondering was a turntable mounted on top of one of their receivers . The idler wheel assembly was very poorly made in a way it would not hold the wheel in place because the linkage was to thin and plastic . It was not because it was worn out , the whole thing showed little use . As for there speakers i owned 3 models and put beside other brands models the same physical size i got more sound out of the B&O . As of anymore like mentioned in my last post about any decent speaker sounds good to me . I dont care for pounding bass all day anymore it gets on my nerves . A nice well rounded sound from one of these new bookshelf stereos sounds the best to me . Article: 323381 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Zenith Radio Phono question References: <433FFB7C.83617738@earthlink.net> <1t6dnUXJu8MRGt3eRVn-gQ@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 02:09:52 GMT Mark Oppat wrote: > jeff, > It actually has 3 chassis, the RF/IF, the phono preamp, and the amp/power > supply. > > warn him that this set has lots of rubber wiring harnesses. I know, I was over there yesterday and saw the unit(s) It had been stored in a back room for 40 years wrapped in a blanket. The dial looks like new. The turntable looks like new. Underneath all the wiring has disintegrated. He's already working on replacing it. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323382 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 20:12:55 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128111521.103662.260350@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128186648.617612.148860@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1128206043.043191.201430@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1128301437.233467.220040@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> well said. randy "Peter Wieck" wrote in message news:1128301437.233467.220040@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > John, > > If I get interrupted, please forgive. I will eventually finish. > > Working from the back to the front. > > Efficiency: Vastly over-rated as these things go. Consider the > following facts dictated by measurable physics. > > 1. Perceived loudness is non-linear. > 2. Power required to achieve increases in perceived loudness is also > non-linear. > 3. Several manufacturers addressed this very real fact by making > "powered" speakers. Advent being amongst the first, but including every > maker from BIC through Revox through B&O. > > I think we can all agree that if one watt is needed to make 86dB of > loudness, 10 watts is needed to make 96dB, and 100 watts to make 106dB. > That is also simple physics. > > So, "efficiency" is a function of two things, the speaker itself and > the power available to drive it. Perhaps that is a 4th thing we might > agree upon. > > Music signal might be 'qualified' (as opposed to 'quantified') by its > "peak-to-average" range. Much "Rock and Roll is highly compressed, with > a P/A of 10dB or less. About any amp is capable of delivering > sufficient power in this case. However, many sources are at 20dB or > more P/A, I have one example that is 30dB. So, a signal at 1 watt of > average will need 1000 watts to make an unclipped peak. 0.5/5/50/500 > for a lesser average requirement. > > Damned-few amps are capable of delivering even 500 watts RMS. Even > fewer as amplifier manufacturers became emasculated, some time around > the early 80s. > > All of a sudden, speaker efficiency became a 'real' issue rather than a > subliminal issue. > > AR took the position, early on, that they would leave efficiency as > their lowest priority, sacrificing it to most everything else. The AR3a > is a stellar example of that philosophy. > > Moving on to "Flat at top octaves": > > Well, Bass is pretty damned easy to reproduce. Also a fact driven by > physics rather than any wishful thinking on the part of a speaker > maker. Cerwin-Vega made an entire industry based on doing 30hz at > floor-shaking levels and entirely ignoring everything about 220hz or > so. However, making say.... 8000hz at a 'proper' level <<>> with a > dome tweeter is a much more difficult proposition, requiring pretty > massive amplifier power (relative to 30hz). Not even to mention > 15,000hz. > > AR went to dome speakers very early on. Both in mid-range and tweeter. > A decision that took a massive amount of guts, something that not even > KLH or Advent (both Kloss ventures) even attempted to emulate moving > forward. That decision doomed AR to the 'low-efficiency' end of the > spectrum, even as an outlyer. But even today, that is the 'right' > decision given infinite amplifier power. Even today. > > I run a pair of AR3as through a Dynaco 416, capable of well over > 400wpc/RMS at the 4-ohm nominal load of the 3a. The unit is also stable > to less than one (1) ohm. One might complain of the 416 as being > "brittle", and any number of other 'transistor' defects, but the brute > fact of the matter is that in blind-tests with several golden-eared > listeners, that same 416 has blown the socks off of my Scott LK 150 > (6550-based amp) and several audio-phool grade amps as well. > > The bottom line is HEADROOM.... if one has restricted headroom, AR > speakers are NOT the proper choice. Never were, never will be. > > Pick your speakers. Any speakers. The only requirement is that they be > 100% OEM (replaced like-for-like parts is acceptable). > I will pick a pair of 100% OEM (but fullly functional) AR3as. > > I will drive either set through: > > a) your amp. > b) my amp SS > c) my amp tube > d) any other amp available of your choice > > We will blindfold test any five individuals. Two (2) of mine, three (3) > of yours. > > I get to pick three sources. > You get to pick three sources. > > Betcha that my choice & combination gets picked hands-down, sources > notwithsdanding. Not necessarily 100% of the time, but certainly by a > super-majority. > > Finally, getting to B&O.... look at the definition of "ineffable".... > "crap" is a result, not a descriptive. You said it yourself and said it > best: And yes, they are quite expensive and probably not a great value > from a > strict performance/dollar perspective. But that has never been what B&O > is > about anyway. > > Sorry, but the end-user is the customer, and deserves the best > value-for-money possible. The purpose of speakers is to reproduce the > source as best as possible at the (or any) price.... Anything else is > a lie. > > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA > Article: 323383 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Mueller Subject: Re: current limiting resistors Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 19:18:22 -0700 Message-ID: References: <6n8tj15r7km45dpdvf5ejbsid69pn2hcg8@4ax.com> On Sat, 01 Oct 2005 15:02:18 +0000, philsvintageradios wrote: > some newer solid state power supplies and such have some sort of > current limiting resistor. I am not sure if that is the correct term . > > basically they let the current through , until it gets over a certain > limit, then they "clamp down" and won't let any current pass. > > these power supplies will appear to have no voltage across the output > leads if they are shorted. you think the power supply is dead, but > then if one of the output leads is lifted it has output power again. > > I "think " this is a relatively new way of designing things. but I > don't know, and i also don't know how zener diodes work. I am hoping > someone can enlighten me because this sounds like it could provide a > good way to protect a radio, perhaps even substitute for a fuse? > > > Phil Wow, this thread has covered a lot of territory and still hasn't answered all the original questions. The information on switching power supplies is pretty much correct, I could only quibble about details. It isn't too useful for old radios, however. Current limiting has been around for a lot longer than that however (it was common in solid state power supplies from the '60s). Most linear (analog) power supplies also have it. It usually involves sensing the output current by means of a series resistor. When the voltage drop becomes too large, a circuit siphons off some of the base current of the pass transistor to keep the current more or less constant. The simplest way to do this is to put the sense resistor in series with the emitter of the pass transistor and adjust the size to drop 0.7 V (for silicon transistors) at the desired cutoff current. Then put two diodes from the output side of the resistor to the base of the transistor so that they are forward biased. When the current goes too high, the excess base current is diverted into the output. If the pass transistor is a darlington pair, three diodes are required. This circuit gives rather sloppy limiting but it can keep the pass transistor from burning up. Another way is to connect the base of another (limiter) transistor to the emitter of the pass transistor. The emitter of the limiter transistor goes to the output side of the sensing resistor, and the collector goes to the base of the pass transistor. Now if the current goes too high, the limiter transistor turns on and diverts base current to the output. This gives much sharper limiting, but, since it is a feedback circuit, it can oscillate unless it is properly compensated. If a sample of the output voltage is also fed to the base of the limiter transistor, it becomes a POWER limiter. The output current drops as the voltage drops. Thus a smaller heatsink is needed for the pass transistor. The low cost linear supplies made by many manufacturers these days work this way. It is usually called "foldback" limiting. A power supply like this may not start if used to power a circuit with high inrush current like an incandescent lamp or a motor. A PTC thermistor, as described by others has a low resistance below a certain current and switches to a much higher resistance if this current is exceeded. They are small and cheap but have very loose tolerance on the trip current. They are also fairly slow acting. Most are for relatively low voltages, 72 V or less. There are a few rated for 120 V or higher but the current ratings are low. These are made by many companies such as Tyco/Raychem, Bournes, Littelfuse, World Components, etc. A Zener diode is a voltage regulator. Without getting into the internal workings, if a voltage is applied in the forward direction, it turns on like a normal diode. If a reverse voltage is applied, only a very small current flows until the Zener voltage is reached. Then the current increases rapidly. An external resistance is required to prevent the current from getting too high and destroying the diode. Its characteristics are similar to a gas voltage regulator tube like the 0A2 except that it doesn't require a higher-than-operating-voltage to start it. -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eportiz. Then replace nospam with sacbeemail. Article: 323384 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Al Last" Subject: FA-eBay CATALIN plastics Message-ID: Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 02:59:57 GMT Please see my listing #6213937480 then select my other items for sale to see all the pieces Thanks, Al Article: 323385 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? Date: 2 Oct 2005 22:00:04 -0500 Message-ID: <43409e15$0$248$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128111521.103662.260350@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1128186648.617612.148860@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1128206043.043191.201430@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <433f31d7$0$214$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <1128265836.948510.126590@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Peter Wieck wrote: > Agreed on all points. All my AR stuff is either pre or with Teledyne. > Alex Bernardi was an engineer there whom I spoke to on several > occasions, he was one of the last of the "old guard" before their > Canton, MA factory went dark at the sell-out to International Jensen > (Recoton). He stated that Teledyne treated him very well, and that when > he locked the door behind him, he intended to retire. > I recently had some long chats with a former speaker designer who lives in my neighborhood. He's working on Voice-Over-Internet now; glad to be far away from speakers. He said that he got tired of having companies shot out from under him. The sense that I got was that there was a period during which there was ferrocious competition among speaker companies and that the good old ones couldn't compete. Recoton gobbled them up -- I recall that at the end, they'd absorbed something like nine speaker brands. Whoever thought that Jensen would ever go on the rocks? > AR was a class-act from start to finish as a separate entity. When they > became amalgamated with Advent, Jensen and half-a-dozen other brands > they went straight to crap. > Although William is fond of KLH, they didn't have the "class" that AR did. KLH made a brighter speaker, and in A/B comparisons, the brighter speaker will always sound more exciting. The difference in construction was apparent when they needed repair. And my friend just had his AR3 woofers reconed. > As to Randy's comment B&O being Bose to people with money.... Let's > refine that some. Bose to people with obscene amounts of money. Bose is > overpriced for what it is by any measure. I expect to see Bose > WaveRadios starting to show up in flea-markets by the uncounted > thousands in a few years, they simply have no staying power the way the > old KLH or even early Advent radios do. > Is Bose the Sharper Image of consumer audio? My little experience with B&O products (in the past) is that they are very heavy and solid, although performance is ordinary unless you're spending at the top of their line. I once owned a B&O cartridge/tonearm combo; the cartridge suffered from a glaring workmanship defect. Bubba Article: 323386 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 23:22:28 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: OT: memory capacitors References: <4340a18f$0$243$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: CalBubba wrote: > I have a digital Yamaha receiver from the 80s (I think), Model R-8. It > includes switching for stereo video, but not home theater, Dolby, etc. > > It won't remember its stations and last-input selection. > > I understand that it uses a "memory capacitor." > What is a "memory capacitor?" How is it different from a regular > capacitor, and why use this rather than a chargeable battery of some > type? Finally, what's a good type, mfr, source? > > Bubba They will generally look like a short, fat electrolytic cap. Capacitance will be in the Farad range and the unit should be marked as to value. Mouser has them. -Bill Article: 323387 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <5694-433F603A-422@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net> <6wQ%e.6114$oc.14@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net> Subject: AK-60 -- still more questions Message-ID: Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 03:31:24 GMT Mark, Just to let you know I really appreciate the help from you and the others here. It seems the others on this list have seen thousands of these, yet here I am doing my first one. The problems are not with the radio itself -- it's such a simple radio, but the landscape is so different from anything I've seen. So to avoid surprises, I'll ask before I leap. I've gone through and basically replaced the resistors. The closest one to being correct was 29k when it should've been 20k. The others -- should be 65k, measures 2.5 megs. Should be 30k, measures 12k. You get the idea -- so they're out. My only question about these is how to make new ones that look original. As for the wirewounds, I haven't measured any of them, but since the radio works I suspect these -- and all the transformers -- are fine. I mentioned distortion, particularly when warm. Time to go through the caps -- excuse me, condensers. The filter is an interesting animal; it's got six terminals arranged in a corcle with a terminal in the center. Is the center common? I'm not sure, as the schematic shows these caps in different places, with no such common ground or tie point. In any case, I tried measuring these -- they all seem to measure close to spec, although there is resistance (I need to move up the "power factor.") I measure no leakage whatsoever up to 250 volts. After that I shot over to the Det-AF coupling condenser, as this is most suspect for distortion. Sure enough, leaks like a sieve. So here's the next really dumb question: what to do about it? There are apparently two caps inside a rectangular sardine can, that until now I thought was part of the tuning cap above it. Can I remove the sardine can without dropping the tuner above it, and throwing belts and all out of alignment? If I get the sardine can out, what should I expect to find? Can I remove and stuff? I'm sure a new cap will make all the difference, but I'll wait to hear from others before attempting to fix it. Gee, I can't wait to see a Majestic or Crosley from that era! -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:QMadncOKAYEeFN3eRVn-tw@comcast.com... > Gary, > its kinda odd to hear you go thru this set, as these AK55's and 60's were > what I started with waaaayyyy back in my teens... like 1972. > > The reason for the lack of values was back before 1932 there were so many > kit builders, and the makers wanted to be cautious about letting out too > much info about their sets! After about 1932 the loosened up about that. > Also, the RMA resistor color code didnt appear until 1934, so you have no > color standards either. > > Since you have some signal, this is an easy set to use a signal tracer on, > just follow the signal thru each tube, it will get louder and louder. > remember to use the diode switched in on your probe before the detector! > I > will bet you have an open output tranny primary, or the driver stage is > dead > for some reason. > > Mark Oppat > > > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message > news:6wQ%e.6114$oc.14@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> THANK YOU!!! >> >> What a whopping improvement, to have a REAL schematic of this set. >> >> Again, this unit has been quite a learning experience -- in the > realization >> that not only were the radios themselves primitive, but the way they were >> built, and the documentation were just as primitive. So many things we > take >> for granted simply weren't there -- such as standard resistor color >> codes, >> and even component numbering. Instead of R3, you're stuck with "first AF >> grid leak resistor -- blue" with positively no concept of what's supposed > to >> be there unless you have a legend. Their literature doesn't even tell >> you >> what tubes are supposed to be there! >> >> I suppose my next step is to determine the condition of the transformers > and >> capacitors. Many of these are marked with colored wires, which is good >> news -- this chassis is extremely clean, and wire colors for the most >> part >> are still intact. >> >> Although this radio is in fairly nice original condition, I'm getting the >> impression that before all is said and done I'll be doing a restoration >> of >> it. I've removed the original resistors, but have kept them -- is there >> anyone out there who can stuff these resistors and make them look > original? >> It looks like they're some sort of ceramic tube with end contacts -- and > the >> ends are made of solder, so they'll melt easily. if you're not careful. > Are >> the tubes hollow? Could a new resistor be inserted, and some sort of >> mold >> made to dip each end into a little vat of melted solder? I'd like to >> hear >> comments from others. >> >> Also, what about the wiring? I have several spools of new cloth wire >> from >> AES, which looks to be the same as what's being used in there. However > some >> of the wires are not solid colors; some are white with a row of green >> dots >> patterns, or other similar schemes. Are such wires available? >> >> >> >> -- >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> >> >> "Lou deGonzague" wrote in message >> news:abQ%e.15172$K91.8754@twister.nyroc.rr.com... >> > Here are a couple websites that might help, > http://www.atwaterkent.info/ >> > Check out the modern drawings >> > http://www.atwaterkent.info/TechData/akDrawingIndex.html >> > Bill Sheppard wrote: >> >> Gary, >> >> This may be a dumb question, but have you verified >> >> that >> >> the speaker field is energized? If it's not, residual magnetism will >> >> still allow the speaker to work but at greatly reduced volume. > Regarding >> >> the whistles and birdies on a TRF set, have >> >> you tried shutting off all nearby devices that contain a switching > power >> >> supply? >> >> Bill(oc) >> >> >> > > > Article: 323388 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <4340A9F4.10992938@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: OT: memory capacitors References: <4340a18f$0$243$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 03:47:54 GMT CalBubba wrote: > > I have a digital Yamaha receiver from the 80s (I think), Model R-8. It > includes switching for stereo video, but not home theater, Dolby, etc. > > It won't remember its stations and last-input selection. > > I understand that it uses a "memory capacitor." > What is a "memory capacitor?" How is it different from a regular > capacitor, and why use this rather than a chargeable battery of some > type? Finally, what's a good type, mfr, source? > > Bubba I have two types in stock: NEC .22 F 5.5 VDC $1.00 Each 49 in stock NEC .47 F 10 VDC $3.00 Each 1 in stock They are listed on http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.terrell/Epcap.html and are the last two items under electrolytics. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323389 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: philsvintageradios Subject: Re: Not my auction, but this would be a great addition to someone's bench! Message-ID: References: Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 04:07:35 GMT On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 23:03:39 GMT, "Jon" wrote: > >"Brenda Ann" wrote in message >news:dhpo53$als$1@news2.kornet.net... >> Don't ask me HOW ebay screwed up their own link, but this one's right off >> the auction itself, which is still up. >> >> http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-4-Tube-Signal-Generator-and-Frequency-Modulator_W0QQitemZ6566617618QQcategoryZ38034QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem > > > >Turns out that it was relisted. eBay cancelled the original auction because >the lister put something in there about donating to a pet shelter. Go >figure. > >Jon > Kind of weird how the seller goes on and on about painting the kitchen cabinets. what does that have to do with anything? Phil Article: 323390 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "william_b_noble" References: <4340a18f$0$243$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Subject: Re: memory capacitors Message-ID: <1128312409.b3d957cc00d7ac0372a6ab5787c9856b@teranews> Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 21:06:46 -0700 the reason for using cap rather than battery is lifetime - how many nicads would have lasted 20 years - also, very low self discharge rate, no "memory" like NiCD, etc "CalBubba" wrote in message news:4340a18f$0$243$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com... >I have a digital Yamaha receiver from the 80s (I think), Model R-8. It >includes switching for stereo video, but not home theater, Dolby, etc. > > It won't remember its stations and last-input selection. > > I understand that it uses a "memory capacitor." > What is a "memory capacitor?" How is it different from a regular > capacitor, and why use this rather than a chargeable battery of some type? > Finally, what's a good type, mfr, source? > > Bubba Article: 323391 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT: memory capacitors From: Larry References: <4340a18f$0$243$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 00:31:31 -0400 CalBubba wrote in news:4340a18f$0$243$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com: > I understand that it uses a "memory capacitor." > What is a "memory capacitor?" How is it different from a regular > capacitor, and why use this rather than a chargeable battery of some > type? Finally, what's a good type, mfr, source? > > Bubba > > We use memory capacitors in many digital organs and keyboards. I carry 1 Farad 5V caps which are only about the size of a nickel and 1/2 thick, now. Radio Shack has them, or had them if they've been recently discontinued. 1 Farad is easy now. The reason to use the big cap is it charges fast, as fast as the power supply can stand, limited by a series resistor....it doesn't need maintenance and doesn't leak corrosive chemicals all over if it goes dead. Unlike the Lithium disk batteries used sometimes, it also doesn't explode if shorted. And, most importantly, did I mention it was CHEAP?!....That's why...(c; www.mouser.com will sell you just one if you must.... -- Larry Article: 323392 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: philsvintageradios Subject: Re: current limiting resistors Message-ID: References: <6n8tj15r7km45dpdvf5ejbsid69pn2hcg8@4ax.com> Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 04:34:48 GMT On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 19:18:22 -0700, Jim Mueller wrote: >On Sat, 01 Oct 2005 15:02:18 +0000, philsvintageradios wrote: > >> some newer solid state power supplies and such have some sort of >> current limiting resistor. I am not sure if that is the correct term . >> >> basically they let the current through , until it gets over a certain >> limit, then they "clamp down" and won't let any current pass. >> >> these power supplies will appear to have no voltage across the output >> leads if they are shorted. you think the power supply is dead, but >> then if one of the output leads is lifted it has output power again. >> >> I "think " this is a relatively new way of designing things. but I >> don't know, and i also don't know how zener diodes work. I am hoping >> someone can enlighten me because this sounds like it could provide a >> good way to protect a radio, perhaps even substitute for a fuse? >> >> >> Phil > >Wow, this thread has covered a lot of territory and still hasn't answered >all the original questions. > >The information on switching power supplies is pretty much correct, I >could only quibble about details. It isn't too useful for old radios, >however. > >Current limiting has been around for a lot longer than that however >(it was common in solid state power supplies from the '60s). Most >linear (analog) power supplies also have it. It usually involves sensing >the output current by means of a series resistor. When the voltage drop >becomes too large, a circuit siphons off some of the base current of the >pass transistor to keep the current more or less constant. The simplest >way to do this is to put the sense resistor in series with the emitter of >the pass transistor and adjust the size to drop 0.7 V (for silicon >transistors) at the desired cutoff current. Then put two diodes from the >output side of the resistor to the base of the transistor so that they are >forward biased. When the current goes too high, the excess base current >is diverted into the output. If the pass transistor is a darlington pair, >three diodes are required. This circuit gives rather sloppy limiting but >it can keep the pass transistor from burning up. > >Another way is to connect the base of another (limiter) transistor to the >emitter of the pass transistor. The emitter of the limiter transistor >goes to the output side of the sensing resistor, and the collector goes to >the base of the pass transistor. Now if the current goes too high, the >limiter transistor turns on and diverts base current to the output. This >gives much sharper limiting, but, since it is a feedback circuit, it can >oscillate unless it is properly compensated. If a sample of the output >voltage is also fed to the base of the limiter transistor, it becomes a >POWER limiter. The output current drops as the voltage drops. Thus a >smaller heatsink is needed for the pass transistor. The low cost linear >supplies made by many manufacturers these days work this way. It is >usually called "foldback" limiting. A power supply like this may not >start if used to power a circuit with high inrush current like an >incandescent lamp or a motor. > >A PTC thermistor, as described by others has a low resistance below a >certain current and switches to a much higher resistance if this current >is exceeded. They are small and cheap but have very loose tolerance on >the trip current. They are also fairly slow acting. Most are for >relatively low voltages, 72 V or less. There are a few rated for 120 V or >higher but the current ratings are low. These are made by many companies >such as Tyco/Raychem, Bournes, Littelfuse, World Components, etc. > >A Zener diode is a voltage regulator. Without getting into the internal >workings, if a voltage is applied in the forward direction, it turns on >like a normal diode. If a reverse voltage is applied, only a very small >current flows until the Zener voltage is reached. Then the current >increases rapidly. An external resistance is required to prevent the >current from getting too high and destroying the diode. Its >characteristics are similar to a gas voltage regulator tube like the 0A2 >except that it doesn't require a higher-than-operating-voltage to start it. This is great info, and Larry's explanation of how the newer power supplies actually work was really interesting too. I have heard many of these terms thrown about, glad I asked, and thanks for taking the time to explain Phil Article: 323393 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: et472@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Michael Black) Subject: Re: OT: memory capacitors Date: 3 Oct 2005 04:39:43 GMT Message-ID: References: <4340a18f$0$243$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Larry (noone@home.com) writes: > CalBubba wrote in > news:4340a18f$0$243$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com: > >> I understand that it uses a "memory capacitor." >> What is a "memory capacitor?" How is it different from a regular >> capacitor, and why use this rather than a chargeable battery of some >> type? Finally, what's a good type, mfr, source? >> >> Bubba >> >> > > We use memory capacitors in many digital organs and keyboards. I carry > 1 Farad 5V caps which are only about the size of a nickel and 1/2 thick, > now. Radio Shack has them, or had them if they've been recently > discontinued. 1 Farad is easy now. > And to make it sort of more on topic, one would see references to 1F capacitors in the hobby electronic magazines decades ago. They'd be in the cartoon pages, and they'd picture something the size of a truck or a house. Nobody cold imagine a use or need for such a thing, and everyone imagined it to be very large, based on other capacitors of the time. Even circa 1972, I bought a 10,000uF 16v capacitor, "Computer Grade" at a hamfest to build a power supply. That was massive capacitance compared to what was commonly in use up until around then. But it was the size of a Coke can. Now you can get them in far smaller packages, with higher voltage ratings and even higher capacitance. When I needed to replace an electrolytic in the power supply of my Tektronics oscilliscope ten years ago, even then I was surprised by the relatively high capacitance values, at least compared to common power supply values from thirty years ago in tube equipment. I was quite surprised that I could get the needed capacitance, something like 100uF at 400vdc, at the local surplus store without any fuss whatsoever. I don't remember such values being common decades ago, because they weren't used in common equipment. Michael Article: 323394 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: Not my auction, but this would be a great addition to someone's bench! Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 14:15:26 +0900 Message-ID: References: "philsvintageradios" wrote in message news:dhb1k11mt50ei85lf0i9mndnbruecgv5s5@4ax.com... > On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 23:03:39 GMT, "Jon" > wrote: > > Kind of weird how the seller goes on and on about painting the kitchen > cabinets. what does that have to do with anything? > > Phil You have to be familiar with the seller I guess. I've been following her auctions for some time. The family is renovating an old house they bought, more or less starting >from the ground up. The stories about progress on the renovation are a way for them to let the buyers familiarize themselves with them, sort of bring you into the family. I rather like the idea. :) Article: 323395 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Georg Richter" <520066970381-0001@T-Online.de> Subject: Re: OT: memory capacitors Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 12:02:44 +0200 Message-ID: References: <4340a18f$0$243$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Larry wrote: > We use memory capacitors in many digital organs and keyboards. I carry > 1 Farad 5V caps which are only about the size of a nickel and 1/2 thick, > now. Radio Shack has them, or had them if they've been recently > discontinued. 1 Farad is easy now. > > The reason to use the big cap is it charges fast, as fast as the power > supply can stand, limited by a series resistor....it doesn't need > maintenance and doesn't leak corrosive chemicals all over > if it goes dead. That is not always true: they can leak, their chemicals eat copper. They want exact DC, don't like ripple or overvoltage. The flat ones are better than the small ones. If you see even a little bit moisture on the top ... replace. > Unlike the Lithium disk batteries used sometimes, > it also doesn't explode if shorted. Never tried wong polarity ;-) Regards, Georg Article: 323396 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: David Stinson Subject: Re: OT: memory capacitors References: <4340a18f$0$243$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 12:10:02 GMT Michael Black wrote: > Even circa 1972, I bought a 10,000uF 16v capacitor, "Computer Grade" > at a hamfest to build a power supply. That was massive capacitance > compared to what was commonly in use up until around then. But it > was the size of a Coke can. Now you can get them in far smaller packages, > with higher voltage ratings and even higher capacitance. I've been told (have not researched myself) that these small hi-value caps are very limited in their ability to source current, because of small leads/structures and high equivalent series resistance (in part due to the small structural componants); that they are only good for microamp "keep-alive" service. Has anyone investigated this? Sounds like designing a power supply to source a couple of hundred milliamps using half-farad caps is still a ways off. 73 Dave S. Article: 323397 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? Message-ID: Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 12:47:40 GMT What a thread! He asks, which of these old radios is your favorite one to listen to? Next thing you know we're talking about the audio defects in Bang & Olufsen stereos! Unfortunately I don't have the privilage of installing a B&O in my shop, nor do I really want one. Again, when I'm not tuning/calibrating a unit on the bench, I'll have the Knight receiver on. At times I've been listening to OTR on the computer -- although once I've got the AK to specs I'll use it along with an AMT-3000 instead of the computer -- or maybe just feed the computer sound card into the AMT-3000. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Peter Wieck" wrote in message news:1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... >I expect that many here have or listen to one or two 'favorite' radios > all the time. Speaking for myself, I choose (or chose) these radios for > their sound often more than for any other reason. So, this is an > informal and voluntary poll on which radios do you think sound the best > from direct personal experience. There is no 'why' to it, unless you > care to explain, and certainly no need to justify one choice or > another. > > I would have liked to except Exotics from the poll, but just now > decided not to, as some of you may have exotics in the inventory, but > choose to listen to something else instead. That might be an > interesting 'why' if anyone wishes to explain. > > So, on a regular basis, what do you consider the best sounding radio > that you listen to or have listened to for long periods. In the > following categories: > > Console > Tombstone/Cathedral/Tabletop > Portable > Add your cagegory (Chairside, for instance) > > Then, as there is a good deal of audio crossover here, what would you > consider to be the best combination of audio equipment, to about 1965