Article: 328171 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: ISH Subject: Magic Brain 9K2 Message-ID: <2mluq15tree0d294ga3pa763ncm88a9n5b@4ax.com> Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 02:40:09 GMT My brother in law rescued a radio just brought into the landfill for me. He stated that it is an RCA console model 9K2 circa 1936 with Magic Brain tuning. Checking around the net, I see that this radio covers, in addition to the normal BC and SW, 150-400 kcs, as well as "Ultra Short Wave" 23 Mcs to 60 MCS. I can see long wave, but why 60 Mcs? Also, what is a magic brain? Has anyone restored one of these before? BTW, this radio was about 1 minute away from the compactor when rescued! Ish Article: 328172 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Scharf Subject: Re: A Twisted Carol for Chirstmas References: <43AEE5FA.E97A9354@earthlink.net> <1135548354.929592.322070@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 21:59:19 -0500 RadioGary wrote: > Even better, > > http://humor.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http://www.bobrivers.com/audiovault/downloads/chipmunkvid.asp > explore the site, there are other sick (good) ones there. I liked Osma got ran over by a reindeer. Article: 328173 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Scharf Subject: Re: A Twisted Carol for Chirstmas References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 22:12:10 -0500 xrongor wrote: > "Ken Scharf" wrote in message > news:NSArf.23956$Qa1.3320@bignews1.bellsouth.net... > >>Jeffrey D Angus wrote: >> >>> >>>David Stinson wrote: >>> >>> >>>> "I Saw Daddy Beating Santa Claus" >>> >>> >>>I remember one song from the Dr. Demento show... >>>"I saw daddy kissing Santa Claus" >>>Apparently it was mommy dressed up as Santa. ;-) >>> >>>Jeff >>> >> >>My Favorite Dr. Demento Xmas song is >>"Grandma got ran over by a reindeer" > > > at risk of sounding like an ad... > > you can access some of those good ole songs at drdemento.com in the listen > to this section. it costs a couple bucks (literally) but i can think of > worse ways to blow a couple bucks. > > randy > > I've already got quite a collection of Dr Demento LP's (remember them?) and CD's. Article: 328174 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Magic Brain 9K2 Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 20:26:27 -0700 Message-ID: <29064-43AF62E3-268@storefull-3237.bay.webtv.net> References: <2mluq15tree0d294ga3pa763ncm88a9n5b@4ax.com> Good radio . Magic brain .. fancy name for AFC I think that freq. has side band? Article: 328175 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <2mluq15tree0d294ga3pa763ncm88a9n5b@4ax.com> Subject: Re: Magic Brain 9K2 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 22:49:37 -0500 "ISH" wrote in message news:2mluq15tree0d294ga3pa763ncm88a9n5b@4ax.com... > My brother in law rescued a radio just brought into the landfill for > me. He stated that it is an RCA console model 9K2 circa 1936 with > Magic Brain tuning. > Checking around the net, I see that this radio covers, in addition to > the normal BC and SW, 150-400 kcs, as well as "Ultra Short Wave" 23 > Mcs to 60 MCS. I can see long wave, but why 60 Mcs? > > Also, what is a magic brain? Has anyone restored one of these before? > > BTW, this radio was about 1 minute away from the compactor when > rescued! > > Ish Excellent radio, well worth restoring. RCA was big on "magic". They had the Magic Brain RF subchassis, Magic Eye Tuning, and a few others I don't recall at the moment. The extended SW coverage was a marketing ploy when other sets ended coverage at 18 MHz or so. I have the 10T tombstone, which is basically the same radio with one more IF stage. Those sets used ceramic concentric ring trimmers in the RF stages. I've seen many of those sets that 70 years later were aligned on the money with the original factory alignment. Pete Article: 328176 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: A Twisted Carol for Chirstmas Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 22:31:14 -0700 Message-ID: References: add those to the long list of things that sounded like a waste of money at the time and now i wish i bought some randy >> > I've already got quite a collection of Dr Demento LP's (remember them?) > and CD's. Article: 328177 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: EBay on Christmas Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 21:38:47 -0800 Message-ID: <15065-43AF81E7-321@storefull-3175.bay.webtv.net> References: >From Mark O.: >We need to take back our country from >the religious right if we want to be lead >in a righteous and straightforward >manner, as we were when we were >founded. Problem is, there are no Statesmen any more, only career political hacks. The only faction waiting to "take the country back from the religious right" is the leftist cabal of avowed globalists who will strip our military bare, open our borders even wider, and sell us out in a heartbeat. Look at the raghead takeover of france. Sad to say, the right wing is currently the best of a bad bargain and the only hope of maintaining some semblance of national sovereignty. Where are the Statesmen? If ever we needed the wisdom and resolve of our irreligious Founders, of statesmen the likes of Lincoln and Teddy Roosevelt, we need it now. Bill(oc) Article: 328178 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Albert Aerts" Subject: Website Update ! Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 13:37:07 +0100 Message-ID: <43afe3ea$0$20585$ba620e4c@news.skynet.be> "The Aerts Family" homepage has been updated. 8 Radios were added to the "Antique Radio" section. Itax 365 (1936) Bellebrune 639 (1939) Radiobell Standard (1950) SBR 821A (1950) Blaupunkt F510WH (1951) Zenith H625 (1951) Tesla 405U (1952) Philips L4X00T (1960) Happy Viewing ! www.aerts.nu Article: 328179 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: OT Re: EBay on Christmas Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 04:35:18 -0800 Message-ID: <8750-43AFE386-391@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> References: >From Mark O.: >With a Dem you have SOME chance of >some good things getting done, even if >you think they are wasteful. With the >Reps, you have LITTLE chance of it, ... >Pick your evil, and vote. To an 'outside observer' of the political process, the whole issue can all be boiled down in a nutshell, thusly: The Dems in their heart of hearts, DO want good. But their interpretation of good is a "level playing field" on the world stage. To that end, their agenda tends toward abolishment of national soverignety, stripping away of the military, elimination of geographic borders and linguistic identity. Can you say "balkanization"? In contrast, despite the Reps' host of perveived evils, their version of good is to preserve *our* national identity and sovereignty on the world stage (which is strangely at odds with the current administration's love affair with Mexico and non-enforcement of border control). >OK, back to on topic stuff for me.... its >been fun, and enlightening. Ditto, for sure. Bill(oc) Article: 328180 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: EBay on Christmas Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 06:50:23 -0800 Message-ID: <23158-43B0032F-67@storefull-3173.bay.webtv.net> References: >From Carter,=A0K8VT: >Look at all this "outsourcing" that the >current (Republican) administration >publicly stated is "good for the country". >Isn't the outsourcing "globalist"? Hasn't >outsourcing already "sold us out"? Does >that mean the Republicans are your >"leftist cabal of avowed globalists"? You're absolutely right, when the 'big picture' is broken down and examined in finer detail. Extremely "leftist" policies are being practiced under the elephant's umbrella such as you cite, as well as the border-control issue, where Bush appears to be trying to "out-Clinton Clinton". It might also be worthwhile to ask why outsourcing is happening.. and see if it's not related to ever-tightening OSHA and environmental regs and escalating employee wage/benefits requirements, to the point where a company has no choice but to fold.. or outsource. And which "wing" is responsible for imposing those ever-tightening rules and regs? Bill(oc) Article: 328181 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" Subject: High priced Capehart speakers on eBay. ;o) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 15:37:59 GMT I understand how supply/demand and cult-like status can drive up prices beyond rationality, and we see this often with Capehart speakers on eBay. But for me, I don't want to pay those prices. I find what's pictured in this eBay speaker listing more to my liking: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7377117634 ;o) jim menning Article: 328182 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: High priced Capehart speakers on eBay. ;o) References: Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 16:03:01 GMT jim menning wrote: > I find what's pictured in this eBay speaker listing more to my liking: Nice grill...very transparent. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 328183 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bill Jeffrey Subject: Re: secret santa came! References: Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 09:38:51 -0700 Nice nice nice! I'm so jealous. But tell me again about the Crystal "Battery"? Bill Jeffrey ========================== Jeffrey D Angus wrote: > It wasn't santa, but it was my wife. She bid on eBay and bought me > a Marconiphone Crystal set. I got that tonight. Oh boy! Another > project to work on. ;-) > > > > > Originally, she was bidding on a 1956 Motorola test set.... Boy, > did I get an ear full when I eSniped it out from under her. Oopsies. > > Alright, who's got information and a schematic for this? Somebody, > probably related to Tim Mullen, converted it to some quack medical > device. How ever the box and instructions in the lid are in good > shape. Looks like I'm going to have to do an Exray job on it now. > > Jeff > > > Article: 328184 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bill Jeffrey Subject: Re: The 50 Greatest Gadgets of the Past 50 Years References: <1135572942.054163.269980@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 10:03:34 -0700 Nice list! I was part of the HT-220 engineering design team (see #42) in the late 60's. What a nice little 2-way radio that was! Bill Jeffrey ========================== Kim_Jong_Il@volcanomail.com wrote: > > http://news.yahoo.com/s/pcworld/20051224/tc_pcworld/123950 > > The original Regency TR-1 is on the list, as is the Zenith Space > Command remote control. William Sommerwerck will approve of the SX-70. > My Timex/Sinclair 1000 is number 47. > Article: 328185 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" References: <2mluq15tree0d294ga3pa763ncm88a9n5b@4ax.com> Subject: Re: Magic Brain 9K2 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 17:18:49 GMT Mark Oppat wrote: > the "Magic Brain" is nothing but an overblown advertising gimmick... > its actually unclear what they are talking about specifically , I > think it was the AVC circuit, but nevermind, there is a great big > sticker on the tuner to tell you its there, whatever it might be! From: http://www.radioblvd.com/ConsolePhoto.htm : There was the Magic Brain, a circuit that featured individual coils for each stage and frequency range in a separate floating chassis for the receiver front-end. ...seems that the brain had a second version, look at bottom: http://www.radiophile.com/rcat10-1.htm I suppose it's something like the tuning units used by the Italian Geloso in many commercial and professional receivers from the late '30 to the '60. They were build from 2 to 6 bands, the professional ones had built in sockets for RF and Mixer tubes. Here an example of one destinated to professional receivers, note trimmers for antenna, oscillator and HF. http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/2.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/3.jpg The following shows the schematic of a similar tuning unit with full coverage from 10 to 580 meters and phono input: http://www.junkradios.com/public/2615b.pdf Full radio schematic here: http://www.junkradios.com/public/G4-218.pdf This is an example of a popular radio sold as a kit, it uses a 3 bands tuning unit: http://www.junkradios.com/public/g103.pdf -- Daniele ^___^ http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 328186 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Scharf Subject: Re: Question: Regeneration References: <1135537295.846807.140740@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 12:27:03 -0500 shoppa@trailing-edge.com wrote: > Bill wrote: > >>Daniele wrote: >> >> >>>After having seen on ebay the use of what seems to be >>>a 1625 (like item 5844223315), i was asking me >>>[Using other tubes] >> >>The question on this offering is "Find the Lead to the Plate" and "How >>Does a 12V Wall Wart make it Work?" > > > Maybe they use the screen grid as the plate? Lord knows they don't have > enough volts to use the screen grid as a screen grid... > > The text accompanying the auction has some very strange technical > claims that are so nonsensical that not only are they not right, they > "aren't even wrong". > > I don't think you'll get a lot of gain at 12V but it must oscillate, > and I guess that makes a regenerative receiver... > > In response to Danielle, with a radio like this it's not a matter of > making it work better, but it's just a wonder that it works at all! If > you want a decent regenerative receiver, just Google for the term and > build one . Or look for any the bazillions of three-tube units made > over the years (Knight Space Spanner, Lafayette Explor-Air, Heath GR-81 > etc.) They're simple and fun radios, I had a Space Spanner when I was a > kid. > > Let's see, a Space Spanner was like $16 when new 50 years ago. Correct > for inflation and that's like in the low hundred $ today, wow! > > Tim. > Lindsay books (www.lindsaybks.com) has a few books on regenerative receiver tech and plans. I built the "Twinplex" single tube (dual triode) using a type 19 tube, but ANY dual triode will work. He shows an other example using a 6SL7GT (12AT7 would be fine). The twinplex runs off 3v and 90v batteries (I used 2 "D" cells in series and 10 9V batteries (2 for $1 at the 99cent store, Panasonic brand no less!). With an ancient pair of 2K ohm phones this radio pulls in just about everything! (It's overloaded by Radio Marti which I'm "lucky" to be within 100 miles of their GIGIWATT transmitter aimed at Uncle Fidel). Article: 328187 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" References: <1135467616.728074.274870@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1135618172.762316.128750@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Wanted: 1961 Schaub-Lorenz schematic Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 17:46:30 GMT Kenny wrote: > Try looking it up on radiomuseum.org. It's a source of mainly European > sets. > Ken The 38255 seems to be an export type of the 38250, Erb's site it's missing 38250s schematic. The nearest schematic seems to be the 38550. -- Daniele ^___^ http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 328188 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: EBay on Christmas References: <_Tfrf.32059$Mi5.18290@dukeread07> <23157-43AF3257-385@storefull-3173.bay.webtv.net> <1135606166.178861.197550@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 18:15:48 GMT Eddie Brimer wrote: > Being a Master Mason myself (big surprize huh), I need to point out > that the guide for the Masonic Lodge is the Holy Bible. Nearly all our > founding fathers were Masons. Masonry in that time was a way of life > rather than a club. Hate to disappoint you atheists out there, but they > were believers. You should probably take a closer look at things Eddie. The founding fathers were NOT atheists. They were Deists. There's HUGE difference. Unless of course, you can't accept anyone outside your own narrow views of religion. By the way, from the Masonic FAQ: http://web.mit.edu/dryfoo/www/Masonry/Misc/FAQ.html > Freemasonry (or simply, Masonry) is a fraternal order whose basic tenets > are brotherly love, relief (philanthropy), and truth. We strive to enjoy > the company of our brother Masons, assist them in times of personal > trouble, and reinforce essential moral values. There is an old adage > that Masonry "takes good men and makes them better", which is our goal. > > It has often been observed that men are the products of everything they > come into contact with during their lifetime. Masonry offers a man an > opportunity to come into regular, enjoyable contact with men of good > character, thus reinforcing his own personal moral development. Of > course, Masonry is also meant to be enjoyed by its membership, so the > order should not be viewed simply as a philosophical club, but rather a > vibrant fellowship of men who seek to enjoy each other's company, a > fraternity. > > To maintain this fraternity, discussion of religion and politics within > the Lodge is forbidden, as these subjects are those that have often > divided men in the past. Masons cover the spectrum of both religious > and political beliefs and encourages a man to be religious without > advocating a particular religion, and to be active in his community > without advocating a particular medium of political expression. The use of the bible is symbolic as a anchor of your faith. Not a specific choice of faith. For what it's worth, they could just have easily used a Qur'an or Torah. But considering that the mainstream religion of white Europeans is Christianity, the bible serves a purpose as something that is "not to be taken lightly" for a majority of people. (Note: American courts still have you place you hand on a bible and swear to tell the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth. The implication being that it carries more weight than swearing to your copy of USA Today.) Additionally: > > Masonry is not a religion "by the definitions most people use. Religion, > as the term is commonly used, implies several things: a plan for salvation > or path by which one reaches the after-life; a theology which attempts to > describe the nature of God; and the description of ways or practices by > which a man or woman may seek to communicate with God. Masonry does none > of those things. We offer no plan of salvation. With the exception of > saying that He is a loving Father who desires only good for His children, > we make no effort to describe the nature of God. And while we open and > close our meetings with prayer, and we teach that no man should ever begin > any important undertaking without first seeking the guidance of God, we > never tell a man how he should pray or for what he should pray. Instead, > we tell him that he must find the answers to these great questions in his > own faith, in his church or synagogue or other house of worship. We urge > men not to neglect their spiritual development and to be faithful in the > practice of their religion. As the Grand Lodge of England wrote in > 'Freemasonry and Religion', 'Freemasonry is far from indifferent to > religion. Without interfering in religious practice, it expects each > member to follow his own faith, and to place above all other duties his > duty to God by whatever name He is known.' Masonry itself makes only a > simple religious demand on a man--he must believe that he has an immortal > soul and he must believe in God. No atheist can be a Mason." (Dr. Jim > Tresner, 33rd degree) > > "Freemasonry has no dogma or theology. It teaches that it is important > for every man to have a religion of his choice and to be faithful to it. > A good Mason is made even more faithful to the tenets of his faith by > membership." (Rev. Norman Vincent Peale, who was also a Mason) There you have it. Deism is quiet acceptable in the Masonic scheme of things. Carping about other's beliefs is not. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 328189 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43B0341C.4010107@socal.rr.com> From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: secret santa came! References: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 18:19:13 GMT Bill Jeffrey wrote: > Nice nice nice! I'm so jealous. But tell me again about the Crystal > "Battery"? It's going to take a while to figure out. Somebody gutted it. All that's left of the original is the box with the instructions in the lid. LIke I said, this is going to be an Exray project to restore back to a crystal receiver and not it's current incarnation as a quack medical device. It does have a interesting buzzer type transformer with a sliding core. At 4.5 volts DC, you get a damped oscillation of about 25 KHz and 400 Volts AC on the optput terminals. Yes, it's an EYE opener. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 328190 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: secret santa came! Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 10:19:37 -0800 Message-ID: <12606-43B03439-496@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net> References: >From Bill J.: >..tell me again about the Crystal >"Battery"? Just takin' a SWAG at it, some xtal sets incorporated a buzzer, which was used to generate RF hash to aid in finding the best 'hot spots' on the crystal. Maybe this is a buzzer battery(?). Bill(oc) Article: 328191 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: secret santa came! References: <12606-43B03439-496@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 18:46:10 GMT Bill Sheppard wrote: > From Bill J.: > > >>..tell me again about the Crystal >>"Battery"? > > > Just takin' a SWAG at it, some xtal sets incorporated a buzzer, which > was used to generate RF hash to aid in finding the best 'hot spots' on > the crystal. Maybe this is a buzzer battery(?). That's jogs a brain cell. I think that's it. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 328192 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: Subject: Re: High priced Capehart speakers on eBay. ;o) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 14:00:38 -0500 "jim menning" wrote in message news:r7Urf.9952$7S.2685@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com... >I understand how supply/demand and cult-like status can drive up prices >beyond rationality, and we see this often with Capehart speakers on eBay. Those are Weber speakers, not Capehart. Where do you see Capehart in the listing ? Syl Article: 328193 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Philco "Special" Capacitor From: Darrell Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 19:07:41 GMT I'm working on a Philco 49-900 and it has a 0.2uF 400 volt capacitor that is marked "Special". Is there really anything special about it, or will anything work? Darrell Article: 328194 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Philco "Special" Capacitor References: Message-ID: <%LXrf.6405$pE4.2640@tornado.socal.rr.com> Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 19:46:03 GMT Does it connect to the chassis? I think it's one of their self- resonant capacitors. Does it have several turns of wire wrapped around it? Or is it one of their truely odd, er ah, special ones with the three leads? Jeff Darrell wrote: > I'm working on a Philco 49-900 and it has a 0.2uF 400 volt capacitor that > is marked "Special". Is there really anything special about it, or will > anything work? > > Darrell -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 328195 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Terry" Subject: Hallicrafters S-53 knob? Message-ID: <_EXrf.2864$l87.90650@news20.bellglobal.com> Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 16:06:41 -0330 I've either mislaid (although have vague memory of it perhaps getting broken years ago, trying to loosen the hex headed fastening screw) one of the smaller knobs, RF gain, Vol etc., band change of a Hallicrafters S-53, finally, just repaired. Is there any chance anyone would have a spare? Or know a source? Knobs are about one inch diam. and have a 'serrated/many ridged' outer surface. I've got one, or maybe two?, spare larger ones; that appear to be tuning knobs for the lesser (S38D/S53) Hallicrafters or very close equivalent. At least one has the inside ring which is shown in one picture of 'The original S-38', which would be willing to swap. For example my mid 1950s? S-53A has two of these larger knobs, with the silver inserts, for tuning and bandspread on the upper left and right of the front panel; I suppose could put one of my larger spares on say the band change; but being on the bottom it wouldn't match with the others knobs on that row or look right! Seasons greetings. Terry Article: 328196 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: High priced Capehart speakers on eBay. ;o) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 15:46:28 -0500 "Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message news:VuUrf.6384$pE4.597@tornado.socal.rr.com... > > > jim menning wrote: > > I find what's pictured in this eBay speaker listing more to my liking: > > Nice grill...very transparent. > > Jeff > NIce bumpers too.... And the Headlights ain't too shabby! Article: 328197 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <1135572942.054163.269980@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1135626893.267061.31210@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: The 50 Greatest Gadgets of the Past 50 Years Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 16:01:43 -0500 that was the MP500; which was a glorified Handicom portable in disguise. The top of the Handicom was fitted to a special carry case that used utilized two standard zinc 6-volt latern batteries for power. Railroads ordered latern batteries by the tons for the train crews. Pete wrote in message news:1135626893.267061.31210@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com... > Railroads used a lunchbox-style handi-talkie back then. Was that > designed before or after the HT-220? I'm guessing before, as it was > large enough to contain discreet transistors. And what is the correct > spelling of handi-talkie? > Article: 328198 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Philco "Special" Capacitor From: Darrell References: <%LXrf.6405$pE4.2640@tornado.socal.rr.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 21:07:25 GMT It does connect to the chassis. From what I can figure out, there's an RF choke built into it, although it just looks like a run of the mill paper capacitor from the outside. I wonder if I can replace it with a discrete capacitor and RF choke? Darrell > Does it connect to the chassis? I think it's one of their self- > resonant capacitors. Does it have several turns of wire wrapped > around it? Or is it one of their truely odd, er ah, special > ones with the three leads? > > Jeff > > Darrell wrote: >> I'm working on a Philco 49-900 and it has a 0.2uF 400 volt capacitor >> that is marked "Special". Is there really anything special about it, >> or will anything work? >> >> Darrell > Article: 328199 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <11qqi7mtancg555@corp.supernews.com> <3Vrrf.9896$7S.2069@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <1r6dnfr4utTk3C3eRVn-uQ@comcast.com> Subject: Re: A Merry "Blue" Xmas to All! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 21:12:02 GMT "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:1r6dnfr4utTk3C3eRVn-uQ@comcast.com... > Most long distance is only about 7c/min today. So if you spent 2 solid > hours on the phone, that is $14. My rates are less than half that. But that's not the issue. > Lots of folks here easily spend that > driving around to places. I think if you spent 4 solid hours on the phone, > you wouldnt miss the $28 and you would have so many leads to stuff you would > never get to them all. Why? because if you do it right its an non linear > function. You call one person, and say you are looking for thus and such, > if they dont have it, do they know anyone who might? Well, Charlie says try > Tom and Dave. Tom and Dave each give you 3 more names, and on it goes. > Many of the leads you might get are collectors who dont advertise ever. You missed the point of my first post. The items I had wanted that were advertised were presold. Period. I don't need lessons on networking phone calls. That has nothing to do with the issue I had. I can do a lot more productive networking talking with friends, or people at radio meets, or on the internet. If you want to spend countless hours chasing elusive prey, then you must not be as busy as you claim. I won't make myself a pest like that. If you claim the the ARC should be used as a resource to start networking, you're dealing with the same very small pool of advertisers, that advertise repeatedly month after month after month. If they are all as old and lonely as you make them sound, then you can spend all your time talking with them, I've got better things to do with my time. jim menning Article: 328200 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" References: Subject: Re: Philco "Special" Capacitor Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 21:19:06 GMT Go see my experience with a similar capacitor. There are also links to the discussions that contributed to my positive results. http://www.ppinyot.com/Bulova/bulova.htm under Electronic Restoration. I hope my experiences can help you. Also See Ron Ramirez site at http://www.philcorepairbench.com/tips/svctip37.htm !!! Good Luck, Paul P. "Darrell" wrote in message news:Xns97388592269BDnospamnospamcom@207.69.189.191... > I'm working on a Philco 49-900 and it has a 0.2uF 400 volt capacitor that > is marked "Special". Is there really anything special about it, or will > anything work? > > Darrell Article: 328201 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Rick Dasher Subject: FA: Overpriced Atwater Kent 80 Cathedral Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 16:28:28 -0500 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6591405703 It looks like the tube shield that is visible in the photo is not original or did they not use the gold shields on this model? I would think for a premium price like that, the finish and chassis would be premium. Just my $0.02. Rick Dasher Zenith G500 TO Zenith 11S474 Philco 38-3 Philco 41-280 RCA 111K Atwater Kent 206 Article: 328202 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" Subject: A bit OT - Looking for a dial cord diagram Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 21:33:33 GMT A fellow ham is looking for a dial cord stringing diagram for a Realistic Stereo receiver model STA-14a. Can any one help out? Thanks in advance, Paul. Article: 328203 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Carter, K8VT" Subject: Audio Phoolery Runs Amok!!! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 21:36:36 GMT A friend of mine saw this on eBay and sent it to me. I thought some of you might appreciate it... > IN STOCK FOR IMMEDIATE SHIPMENT.$50 gives you $1,000 worth of > improvement! This version of the Wiremold AC strip will improve any > system or your money back! This model is not available from all > Wiremold dealers. This strip has nine hospital-grade sockets > hardwired together; however, unlike the power strips available at > hardware stores, there is no circuit breaker, noise filter, light, > switch or fuse. Any one of these items will drastically reduce the > system's musical performance. The Wiremold strip is the only strip > that is free of these performance-robbing items, while providing a > suitable number of outlets for even the largest music systems. Cord > is 6 feet. The order in which the components are plugged into the > strip is critical. If you plug the power amplifier into the strip > closest to the end where the strip power cord enters, and work your > way back to the source component, you will get a much better sound. No vested interest...but if you want to read the rest, it is auction 5844494897. Remember, watch out for the order you plug your equipment in and beware of those performance robbing switches... :-) Article: 328204 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 17:40:20 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: Philco "Special" Capacitor References: <%LXrf.6405$pE4.2640@tornado.socal.rr.com> Message-ID: Darrell wrote: > I wonder if I can replace it with a discrete capacitor and RF choke? > > Darrell A new, modern cap alone will work fine. They did it that way in an effort to make the bypass cap more efficient at the IF freq. Old rolled paper caps had a fair amount of inductance and the idea came up to make it self-resonant at the freq where they wanted it to be self-resonant rather than where it just so happened to fall. Its not an issue with modern caps. Paul's explanation is very good. Typically one has no issues replacing these things but sometimes "things come up" and his experience isn't atypical. The suggestion about it being a trap for 455kc ingress is totally wrong, though. If you want to trap ingress you do it at the input, not between the b-minus line and chassis. Something else I'll add. A recent Philco project of mine gave me a terrible fit with IF alignment. To make a long story short I kept missing the 455kc peak because of all the squawling and carrying on the set was doing. Leaving the 'special' cap in place seemed to minimize this and I put it back in. After I got everything aligned properly there was zero difference between the special cap and a new cap. -Bill Article: 328205 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 18:06:22 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: Hallicrafters S-53 knob? References: <_EXrf.2864$l87.90650@news20.bellglobal.com> Message-ID: gb wrote: > > I thought I saw an eBay auction for new reproduction knobs for > Hallicrafters, if I see it again - will post information. > > w9gb I believe Larry Bordonaro still makes these, but without the silver ring. He does high quality work and as a consequence the brand new knob will stand out like a sore thumb compared to the old ones. Good option for when you need a whole set, though. -Bill Article: 328206 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Philco "Special" Capacitor From: Darrell References: Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 22:14:24 GMT Thanks to all for their help. It looks like I should be able to replace it with a normal capacitor. Darrell Article: 328207 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: Overpriced Atwater Kent 80 Cathedral Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 17:22:28 -0500 "Rick Dasher" wrote in message news:qon0r1pbh2ucls3knhbr4066svag0vvtsi@4ax.com... > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6591405703 > > It looks like the tube shield that is visible in the photo is not > original or did they not use the gold shields on this model? Pukey green color, IIRC > I would think for a premium price like that, the finish and chassis > would be premium. For the current price, it is a steal. The BIY is a bit steep, but it is still a very desirable cathedral. Pete > Just my $0.02. > > Rick Dasher > Zenith G500 TO > Zenith 11S474 > Philco 38-3 > Philco 41-280 > RCA 111K > Atwater Kent 206 Article: 328208 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Audio Phoolery Runs Amok!!! Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 15:29:50 -0700 Message-ID: References: haha. thats his low end model. check this one that was posted a week or so ago... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5843991947 same guy. and i still love how wiring the outlets in parallel is a 'feature' rofl. randy "Carter, K8VT" wrote in message news:EnZrf.36991$BZ5.11012@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com... >A friend of mine saw this on eBay and sent it to me. I thought some of you >might appreciate it... > > >> IN STOCK FOR IMMEDIATE SHIPMENT.$50 gives you $1,000 worth of >> improvement! This version of the Wiremold AC strip will improve any >> system or your money back! This model is not available from all >> Wiremold dealers. This strip has nine hospital-grade sockets >> hardwired together; however, unlike the power strips available at >> hardware stores, there is no circuit breaker, noise filter, light, >> switch or fuse. Any one of these items will drastically reduce the >> system's musical performance. The Wiremold strip is the only strip >> that is free of these performance-robbing items, while providing a >> suitable number of outlets for even the largest music systems. Cord >> is 6 feet. The order in which the components are plugged into the >> strip is critical. If you plug the power amplifier into the strip >> closest to the end where the strip power cord enters, and work your >> way back to the source component, you will get a much better sound. > > > > No vested interest...but if you want to read the rest, it is auction > 5844494897. > > Remember, watch out for the order you plug your equipment in and beware of > those performance robbing switches... :-) Article: 328209 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Rune" References: Subject: Re: Audio Phoolery Runs Amok!!! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 22:41:25 GMT Check the thread "Cryogenic Tubes Meet Super Extension Cords" from last week. There are several of these sellers and claims out there. Even in the UK. They never explain how these wonder boxes clean up the rotten AC that comes out of the outlet you plug them into. What about old junction boxes? Hardware store (or worse) wall outlets? The twisted and capped wires, perhaps aluminum? The splices and joints at the pole, and inlet cable, the contacts at the circuit breakers, 50-year-old transformers, etc. Not to mention whatever else is on the trunk - lights, appliances, heaters, digital gadgets with noisy switching power supplies, motors, tools, hairdryers, etc., etc. These must be wonderful outlet boxes if they cure all that in the last 10 feet. A bargain at twice the price if it worked. Ray "Carter, K8VT" wrote in message news:EnZrf.36991$BZ5.11012@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com... >A friend of mine saw this on eBay and sent it to me. I thought some of you >might appreciate it... > > >> IN STOCK FOR IMMEDIATE SHIPMENT.$50 gives you $1,000 worth of >> improvement! This version of the Wiremold AC strip will improve any >> system or your money back! This model is not available from all >> Wiremold dealers. This strip has nine hospital-grade sockets >> hardwired together; however, unlike the power strips available at >> hardware stores, there is no circuit breaker, noise filter, light, >> switch or fuse. Any one of these items will drastically reduce the >> system's musical performance. The Wiremold strip is the only strip >> that is free of these performance-robbing items, while providing a >> suitable number of outlets for even the largest music systems. Cord >> is 6 feet. The order in which the components are plugged into the >> strip is critical. If you plug the power amplifier into the strip >> closest to the end where the strip power cord enters, and work your >> way back to the source component, you will get a much better sound. > > > > No vested interest...but if you want to read the rest, it is auction > 5844494897. > > Remember, watch out for the order you plug your equipment in and beware of > those performance robbing switches... :-) Article: 328210 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: Audio Phoolery Runs Amok!!! References: Message-ID: <5o_rf.14979$Ou3.10355@dukeread09> Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 17:45:07 -0500 Boy, this guy needs a basic electricity education. He wrote...(electricity does not flow effeciently around sharp corners and bends). . xrongor wrote: > haha. thats his low end model. check this one that was posted a week or so > ago... > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5843991947 > same guy. > > and i still love how wiring the outlets in parallel is a 'feature' rofl. > > randy > > "Carter, K8VT" wrote in message > news:EnZrf.36991$BZ5.11012@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com... > >>A friend of mine saw this on eBay and sent it to me. I thought some of you >>might appreciate it... >> >> >> >>>IN STOCK FOR IMMEDIATE SHIPMENT.$50 gives you $1,000 worth of >>>improvement! This version of the Wiremold AC strip will improve any >>>system or your money back! This model is not available from all >>>Wiremold dealers. This strip has nine hospital-grade sockets >>>hardwired together; however, unlike the power strips available at >>>hardware stores, there is no circuit breaker, noise filter, light, >>>switch or fuse. Any one of these items will drastically reduce the >>>system's musical performance. The Wiremold strip is the only strip >>>that is free of these performance-robbing items, while providing a >>>suitable number of outlets for even the largest music systems. Cord >>>is 6 feet. The order in which the components are plugged into the >>>strip is critical. If you plug the power amplifier into the strip >>>closest to the end where the strip power cord enters, and work your >>>way back to the source component, you will get a much better sound. >> >> >> >>No vested interest...but if you want to read the rest, it is auction >>5844494897. >> >>Remember, watch out for the order you plug your equipment in and beware of >>those performance robbing switches... :-) > > > Article: 328211 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 00:28:28 GMT Mark Oppat wrote: > code that I have heard is that all new service panels must have a 8' > copper ground rod driven in the earth near the panel (maybe within 6', > I dont recall). You must also bond the cold water pipe in the house > to this. Typically straight down from the service panel. By the way, this is the OMLY ground to the electrical system, and the NEUTRAL is also bonded to the panel ground at this point. > "philsvintageradios" wrote: > >> It ocurred to me that since the ground runs all through the house, >> that using the waterpipe as ground might cause the waterpipe to >> itself radiate some ac hum. This isn't really a problem. Unless, like Larry, you insist on running several kilowatts of RF transmitter in the vicinity. >> I thought a short section of plastic plumbing installed on the main >> line into the house could be used to isolate this ground circut from >> the rest of the plumbing, but I don't know if it would make any >> diffference to the amount of stray interference from AC hum This is a bad idea. Every piece of exposed metal is supposed to be connected to ground. That means pipes which connect to faucets. What you may want to consider doing is repiping the house with copper once you get settled in. As long as you're upgrading the electrical system, put in as a minimum a 200 Amp service panel, with room for at least 24 breakers. Obviously, you're going to replace ALL of the older outlets in the house with current U-ground three wire types. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 328212 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Keith Park" References: Subject: Re: High priced Capehart speakers on eBay. ;o) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 00:44:56 GMT Nice Woofers! "jim menning" wrote in message news:r7Urf.9952$7S.2685@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com... >I understand how supply/demand and cult-like status can drive up prices >beyond rationality, and we see this often with Capehart speakers on eBay. > > But for me, I don't want to pay those prices. > > I find what's pictured in this eBay speaker listing more to my liking: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7377117634 > > ;o) > > jim menning > > > Article: 328213 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" References: <%LXrf.6405$pE4.2640@tornado.socal.rr.com> Subject: Re: Philco "Special" Capacitor Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 00:47:48 GMT The suggestion about it being a trap for 455kc ingress is > totally wrong, though. If you want to trap ingress you do it at the > input, not between the b-minus line and chassis. Now that you said it and I gave it more thought I think that reason is bogus too. I will alter the text on the web site. Thanks Bill, Paul. Article: 328214 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Audio Phoolery Runs Amok!!! Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 18:03:36 -0700 Message-ID: References: so many audiophool salesmen will try and sell you complicated power conditioning gear with all sorts of switches, supressors, conditioners, etc... this guy has gone the entire other way and is basically selling you a metal box with a few outlets in it and some wire and claiming its better. i am not going to go so far as to call the guy a liar or a thief. ive met some of these guys and its like a religion to some of them.... (you can google for a story i told about replacing some guys monster cables with lamp cord without telling him if you want a funny story) but i sure wish i could get ahold of whatever it is he smokes before hearing that 2000$ difference... 350$ an ounce maybe and it comes with the power strip i swear i am getting closer and closer to peddling audiophoolry on ebay... if someone actually buys one of these things i think im going to the dark side for a while. randy "Rune" wrote in message news:pk_rf.18006$Ed.3561@news-wrt-01.rdc-nyc.rr.com... > Check the thread "Cryogenic Tubes Meet Super Extension Cords" from last > week. > > There are several of these sellers and claims out there. Even in the UK. > They never explain how these wonder boxes clean up the rotten AC that > comes out of the outlet you plug them into. > > What about old junction boxes? Hardware store (or worse) wall outlets? The > twisted and capped wires, perhaps aluminum? The splices and joints at the > pole, and inlet cable, the contacts at the circuit breakers, 50-year-old > transformers, etc. > > Not to mention whatever else is on the trunk - lights, appliances, > heaters, digital gadgets with noisy switching power supplies, motors, > tools, hairdryers, etc., etc. > > These must be wonderful outlet boxes if they cure all that in the last 10 > feet. > > A bargain at twice the price if it worked. > > Ray > > "Carter, K8VT" wrote in message > news:EnZrf.36991$BZ5.11012@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com... >>A friend of mine saw this on eBay and sent it to me. I thought some of you >>might appreciate it... >> >> >>> IN STOCK FOR IMMEDIATE SHIPMENT.$50 gives you $1,000 worth of >>> improvement! This version of the Wiremold AC strip will improve any >>> system or your money back! This model is not available from all >>> Wiremold dealers. This strip has nine hospital-grade sockets >>> hardwired together; however, unlike the power strips available at >>> hardware stores, there is no circuit breaker, noise filter, light, >>> switch or fuse. Any one of these items will drastically reduce the >>> system's musical performance. The Wiremold strip is the only strip >>> that is free of these performance-robbing items, while providing a >>> suitable number of outlets for even the largest music systems. Cord >>> is 6 feet. The order in which the components are plugged into the >>> strip is critical. If you plug the power amplifier into the strip >>> closest to the end where the strip power cord enters, and work your >>> way back to the source component, you will get a much better sound. >> >> >> >> No vested interest...but if you want to read the rest, it is auction >> 5844494897. >> >> Remember, watch out for the order you plug your equipment in and beware >> of those performance robbing switches... :-) > > Article: 328215 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 18:15:48 -0700 Message-ID: References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> i think you are reading the code book wrong. afaik, you are NOT allowed to use waterpipes exclusively as a ground connection. anybody replaces any of it with plastic and the whole ground could be shot. someone doesnt put a jumper wire across the inlet and outlet of the hot water heater, shot. put a water meter inline with a dialectric connection, shot. you are however required to tie metal pipes into the electrical ground system. that said, you MUST tie the cold water entry point to the house ground. aside from code, i think you are foolish to rely on the piping to ground your electrical system. just too many unknowns. when i did my house recently, code required not 1 but 2 copper rods spaced about 2' apart. they're cheap. just do it. randy "philsvintageradios" wrote in message news:22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com... > > I am about to rewire an old house. It is built in 1924 and the wiring > needs updating. > The code seems to indicate that the powerbox should use the waterpipe > as a ground. it states that If it is available, this MUST be used as a > ground.(If it isn't available, you can drive a copper rod into the > earth and use that. > > It ocurred to me that since the ground runs all through the house, > that using the waterpipe as ground might cause the waterpipe to itself > radiate some ac hum. > > I thought a short section of plastic plumbing installed on the main > line into the house could be used to isolate this ground circut from > the rest of the plumbing, but I don't know if it would make any > diffference to the amount of stray interference from AC hum > > does my theory "hold water" ? Article: 328216 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 18:22:34 -0700 Message-ID: References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> "Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message news:MU%rf.8052$hI1.799@tornado.socal.rr.com... > Mark Oppat wrote: >> code that I have heard is that all new service panels must have a 8' >> copper ground rod driven in the earth near the panel (maybe within 6', >> I dont recall). You must also bond the cold water pipe in the house >> to this. > > Typically straight down from the service panel. By the way, this is the > OMLY ground to the electrical system, and the NEUTRAL is also bonded to > the panel ground at this point. i just want to clarify a technical point. normally (assuming somewhat modern electrical system) you have a box outside the house with a meter on it and usually a breaker. im guessing this is what you are calling the service panel, but im not sure which is why i felt compelled to post. that feeds the panel inside your house. it is most correct for the neutral and ground to tie together ONLY at the outside box, running the ground wire to the rod from there. there are other ways you could hook it up that are safe and would work, but why go second best. what you do NOT want to do is have it tied together at both. if you are having new wiring put in, join it only at the box outside the house with the meter on it. randy Article: 328217 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: Subject: Re: A bit OT - Looking for a dial cord diagram Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 01:39:29 GMT "Paul P" wrote in message news:NkZrf.1362$7S2.908@trndny09... >A fellow ham is looking for a dial cord stringing diagram for a Realistic > Stereo receiver model STA-14a. Can any one help out? > > Thanks in advance, > Paul. > > You may need to find someone with a set of Sam's MHF (modular hi-fi) manuals. It is covered in volume #68 of that series. jim menning Article: 328218 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steve Stone" References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 02:30:10 GMT > that said, you MUST tie the cold water entry point to the house ground. > And how do you do that when the cold water pipe feed is made of plastic pipe ? The well is 325 feet deep. Article: 328219 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: Audio Phoolery Runs Amok!!! Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 02:32:16 GMT Personally I think the best way to provide power to a good audiophile stereo is to use a generator. Of course the generator noise will drown out the sound of the stereo . . . That's the price you pay for quality! -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Carter, K8VT" wrote in message news:EnZrf.36991$BZ5.11012@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com... >A friend of mine saw this on eBay and sent it to me. I thought some of you >might appreciate it... > > >> IN STOCK FOR IMMEDIATE SHIPMENT.$50 gives you $1,000 worth of >> improvement! This version of the Wiremold AC strip will improve any >> system or your money back! This model is not available from all >> Wiremold dealers. This strip has nine hospital-grade sockets >> hardwired together; however, unlike the power strips available at >> hardware stores, there is no circuit breaker, noise filter, light, >> switch or fuse. Any one of these items will drastically reduce the >> system's musical performance. The Wiremold strip is the only strip >> that is free of these performance-robbing items, while providing a >> suitable number of outlets for even the largest music systems. Cord >> is 6 feet. The order in which the components are plugged into the >> strip is critical. If you plug the power amplifier into the strip >> closest to the end where the strip power cord enters, and work your >> way back to the source component, you will get a much better sound. > > > > No vested interest...but if you want to read the rest, it is auction > 5844494897. > > Remember, watch out for the order you plug your equipment in and beware of > those performance robbing switches... :-) Article: 328220 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 22:37:49 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: Philco "Special" Capacitor References: <%LXrf.6405$pE4.2640@tornado.socal.rr.com> Message-ID: Paul P wrote: > The suggestion about it being a trap for 455kc ingress is > >>totally wrong, though. If you want to trap ingress you do it at the >>input, not between the b-minus line and chassis. > > > Now that you said it and I gave it more thought I think that reason is bogus > too. I will alter the text on the web site. > > Thanks Bill, > Paul. > > I think it was an unfortunate choice of terminology on Philco's part that has led to that misconception. It is a 'wave trap' technically speaking but not in the sense that wave traps had been routinely known and utilized for two decades prior. The Philco Service sheet on CHUCK SCHWARK'S site explains the Special Capacitor well, and the basic intent and concept also applies to those earlier ones with the coil wrapped around them. -Bill Article: 328221 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 20:08:38 -0700 Message-ID: References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> >> that said, you MUST tie the cold water entry point to the house ground. >> > And how do you do that when the cold water pipe feed is made of plastic > pipe ? > The well is 325 feet deep. you dont. randy Article: 328222 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: Audio Phoolery Runs Amok!!! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 22:12:48 -0500 "Carter, K8VT" wrote in message news:EnZrf.36991$ > > is 6 feet. The order in which the components are plugged into the > > strip is critical. If you plug the power amplifier into the strip > > closest to the end where the strip power cord enters, and work your > > way back to the source component, you will get a much better sound. > > And logically progressing, if you plug the amp directly into the wall socket, your "sound" will be even better, and you'll save money besides... Article: 328223 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <1135572942.054163.269980@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1135626893.267061.31210@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <1135647210.675125.163100@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: The 50 Greatest Gadgets of the Past 50 Years Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 22:21:17 -0500 wrote in message news:1135647210.675125.163100@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... >> I have pix of trains crews c. 1970 carrying around their radios. I > don't have a website. I'm sure similar pix are online now. > Before the Motorola lunchboxes, they also used WABCO Duophones. They were kind of neat, being first generation solid state, and even had a Collins 15-kHz mechanical filter in the receiver IF. I think I still have one laying around in my "museum" (i.e. cellar). Pete Article: 328224 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jim rozen Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Date: 26 Dec 2005 19:11:44 -0800 Message-ID: References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> In article <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com>, philsvintageradios says... > > >I am about to rewire an old house. It is built in 1924 and the wiring >needs updating. > The code seems to indicate that the powerbox should use the waterpipe >as a ground. it states that If it is available, this MUST be used as a >ground.(If it isn't available, you can drive a copper rod into the >earth and use that. > >It ocurred to me that since the ground runs all through the house, >that using the waterpipe as ground might cause the waterpipe to itself >radiate some ac hum. > >I thought a short section of plastic plumbing installed on the main >line into the house could be used to isolate this ground circut from >the rest of the plumbing, but I don't know if it would make any >diffference to the amount of stray interference from AC hum > >does my theory "hold water" ? Honestly I think you should hire a licensed electrician to re-wire the house. JIm -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== Article: 328225 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: EBay on Christmas References: <_Tfrf.32059$Mi5.18290@dukeread07> <23157-43AF3257-385@storefull-3173.bay.webtv.net> <1135606166.178861.197550@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1135648746.799276.75330@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 03:40:10 GMT Peter Wieck wrote: > Whenever I am faced with this level of rigidity, I ask three questions: > > 1. Where did Cain get his wife? Side note: Grendel, the monster in the epic tale of Beowulf was apparently the son of Cain. "Mother dearest" was shapeless horror. But then, that's 13th century English literature for you. > BTW, Arabs do not wear turbans. Those would be Sikhs. Who are not > Muslims. Politically incorrect explanation: (If you're going to be racist, at least get it right.) Sikh: rag head. Arab: towel head. I was working in Bakersfield in 2001 from August through October. I'd drive back down to Los Angeles on Fridays and drive back on Mondays. In Mettler, there's a small gas station/quicky mart. It is owned/operated by Sikhs. Because of an American tradition of ignorance, (perpetrated by the locals) they had to shave their beards and wear baseball hats (complete with tractor company logos.) Their wives switched to flannel shirts and blue jeans rather than what they usually wore. (Saris I think) Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 328226 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Electric phonograph motor needed From: lherault@bu.edu Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 03:44:01 GMT Message-ID: <43b0b7c1$1_5@newsfeed.slurp.net> I have an RCA Victor New Orthophonic "portable" (it can be carried around but runs on AC). It needs a motor. Does anyone have a spare? I'm pretty sure I need the bottom bearing at least. This motor has sintered bronze bearings that are in brass colored housings at each end of the shaft. The bottom one has a black piece of steel, in its end. It runs on 115-120V AC. Thanks, Ron L lherault at bu dot edu Article: 328227 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: A Merry "Blue" Xmas to All! Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 13:15:24 +0900 Message-ID: References: <11qqi7mtancg555@corp.supernews.com> <3Vrrf.9896$7S.2069@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <1r6dnfr4utTk3C3eRVn-uQ@comcast.com> "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:1r6dnfr4utTk3C3eRVn-uQ@comcast.com... > Most long distance is only about 7c/min today. So if you spent 2 solid > hours on the phone, that is $14. $8.40... > > > > "jim menning" wrote in message > news:3Vrrf.9896$7S.2069@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com... >> >> "Mark Oppat" wrote in message >> news:pKidnfy5JeSo2zPenZ2dnUVZ_tWdnZ2d@comcast.com... >> > >> > Uh, Jim, a serious radio finder looks "into" the ads, not "at" them, > if >> > you know what I mean... its a great lead sheet if you want to spend a >> > little time on the phone. >> > >> > BTW, has everyone forgotten the phone is a device that you can used to > call >> > folks directly? Its a really neat thing, and you get to have a real >> > conversation and find out a LOT more than you can by email... >> > >> >> I don't believe I ever used email to respond to an ARC advertisement. >> >> My response clearly stated I knew how to use the phone, and did. I guess > I should >> also count the cost of all the long distance phone calls I wasted because > of the ARC >> ads as another reason why they were disappointing to me. >> >> jim menning >> >> >> > > > Article: 328228 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <11qqi7mtancg555@corp.supernews.com> <3Vrrf.9896$7S.2069@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <1r6dnfr4utTk3C3eRVn-uQ@comcast.com> Subject: Re: A Merry "Blue" Xmas to All! Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 04:19:36 GMT "Brenda Ann" wrote in message news:doqets$8i$1@news2.kornet.net... > > "Mark Oppat" wrote in message > news:1r6dnfr4utTk3C3eRVn-uQ@comcast.com... >> >> Most long distance is only about 7c/min today. So if you spent 2 solid >> hours on the phone, that is $14. > > > > $8.40... > I noticed that too, but I didn't know if a "solid hour" was different than a normal hour. ;o) jim menning Article: 328229 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gerald K4NHN" References: <1135474466.116700.193640@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Zenith Transoceanic handle Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 04:34:42 GMT Is this what you're looking for? http://cgi.ebay.com/Black-Handle-for-Zenith-Transoceanic-or-Similar_W0QQitemZ6591685993QQcategoryZ7275QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem "mgl" wrote in message news:1135474466.116700.193640@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Hi. I'm new to this group. I'm looking for a handle for a Zenith > Transoceanic (1949 vintage radio). It's the plain black plastic one. > Help would be appreciated. Thanks > Article: 328230 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Nelson Gietz" References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 23:00:36 -0600 "philsvintageradios" wrote in message news:22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com... > > I am about to rewire an old house. It is built in 1924 and the wiring > needs updating. > The code seems to indicate that the powerbox should use the waterpipe > as a ground. it states that If it is available, this MUST be used as a > ground.(If it isn't available, you can drive a copper rod into the > earth and use that. > > It ocurred to me that since the ground runs all through the house, > that using the waterpipe as ground might cause the waterpipe to itself > radiate some ac hum. > > I thought a short section of plastic plumbing installed on the main > line into the house could be used to isolate this ground circut from > the rest of the plumbing, but I don't know if it would make any > diffference to the amount of stray interference from AC hum > > does my theory "hold water" ? 'Nother thought crosses my mind... be careful about implementing standards from the U.S. and Canada from one place to the other. I think there are differences in codes, although at this moment I can't finger one. There are probably differences from city to city for that matter. But if all else fails, you can consult with the municipal inspector to see what he/she will want and proceed on that. (It would NOT pay to do the job without the subsequent inspection. Cheers, Nelson Article: 328231 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Hagstar Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 23:59:50 -0500 Message-ID: <11r1ii1gvmhoie5@corp.supernews.com> References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> Gary Tayman wrote: > Now -- on the kitchen counter there's an > outlet with a 20 amp breaker, another outlet with a 20 amp breaker Code requires these 2 outlets. A microwave should really be on its own 15 amp. branch. I would at least have an electrician do the service entrance and panel for rewiring an old house. John H. From stephanie-at-gordsven-dot-com Fri Dec 30 23:25:17 EST 2005 Article: 328232 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Stephanie Weil Subject: Re: Audio Phoolery Runs Amok!!! References: <1135658264.021424.177150@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Reply-To: stephanie-at-gordsven-dot-com Message-ID: User-Agent: slrn/0.9.7.4 (Linux) Lines: 17 Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 05:01:33 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 66.65.49.10 X-Complaints-To: abuse@rr.com X-Trace: news-wrt-01.rdc-nyc.rr.com 1135659693 66.65.49.10 (Tue, 27 Dec 2005 00:01:33 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 00:01:33 EST Organization: Road Runner High Speed Online http://www.rr.com Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!canoe.uoregon.edu!cyclone1.gnilink.net!gnilink.net!news-feed-01.rdc-nyc.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-out.nyc.rr.com!news-wrt-01.rdc-nyc.rr.com.POSTED!53ab2750!not-for-mail Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:328232 In article <1135658264.021424.177150@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, AuroraOldRadios wrote: > non-magnetic. The outlets are heavy duty industrial grade- whatever > that means. As was said before, how does putting a bandaid on the last An industrial-grade heavy-duty outlet is one that is built out of heavier plastic, shatter-resistant and the metal contacts hold the plugs in tighter and don't lose their "spring action" over the decades. The sockets are built to take abuse and last longer....but they don't conduct any better than a regular 49 cent cheap-o from the big box store (provided you can install one of those cheapies without stripping out the terminal screws). -- Stephanie Weil New York City, U.S.A. Article: 328233 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: The 50 Greatest Gadgets of the Past 50 Years Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 20:56:38 -0800 Message-ID: References: <1135572942.054163.269980@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Bill Jeffrey wrote: > Nice list! I was part of the HT-220 engineering design team (see #42) > in the late 60's. What a nice little 2-way radio that was! > Ah, the HT-220. Back when I first started collecting boatanchors in the late 1970s, quite a number of my ham buddies coveted these radios for use on two meters. Few could afford the $600+ price tag though. How times have changed. I found an HT-220 complete with working NiCad battery sitting on a blanket at a swap for 50 cents about a year ago. It is surplus from the US Geological Survey portion of the Interior Department, and is pretty beat up. Of course, it still works.... -Scott Article: 328234 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "William B Noble (don't reply to this address)" Subject: Re: Electric phonograph motor needed Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2005 22:37:35 -0800 Message-ID: <74o1r1h14r5cqgcubv1k1te9iusi56c9km@4ax.com> References: <43b0b7c1$1_5@newsfeed.slurp.net> you can buy replacement bearings - look around at bearing supply places. I have a motor listed on my web page, www.wbnoble.com - I don't know if it's the right one for you or not, but you could browse around and look at the picture and see if it might be right. bill On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 03:44:01 GMT, lherault@bu.edu wrote: >I have an RCA Victor New Orthophonic "portable" (it can be carried around >but runs on AC). It needs a motor. Does anyone have a spare? I'm pretty >sure I need the bottom bearing at least. This motor has sintered bronze >bearings that are in brass colored housings at each end of the shaft. The >bottom one has a black piece of steel, in its end. It runs on 115-120V AC. > >Thanks, > >Ron L >lherault at bu dot edu Bill www.wbnoble.com to contact me, do not reply to this message, instead correct this address and use it will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com Article: 328235 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" Subject: Hammarlund HX-50 transmitter Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 07:33:59 GMT I am restoring a Hammarlund HX-50 for a fellow ham. The BAMA schematic is...quite bad. I am having trouble tracing and verifying the components of the unit. The rest of the manual is rather good in DjVu format. The owner has a reproduction manual on order and we hope it has a better schematic. In the mean time I would like to get started and order caps, resistors, etc. Could a kind soul please email me a copy of the schematic? Also my parts list resistor section starts with R165. There seems to be a missing BAMA page in between pages 43 and 44. Thanks to all, Paul www.ppinyot.com BTW - if you would like a stand alone (not plug in) DjVu application go to: http://www.tuberadio.it/utils.htm It is slick. I have combined many jpgs and gifs into a single file. The resolution is surprisingly good for the overall compressed file size. This newsgroup probably already knows this..... :~) Article: 328236 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 02:13:45 -0700 Message-ID: References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> <77mdnZZCgY9lei3eRVn-vw@comcast.com> so somebody tell me this. why is it ok to use 15A outlets on 20A breakers? randy "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:77mdnZZCgY9lei3eRVn-vw@comcast.com... > 150 amps is MORE than enough. What is the problem in many homes is the > DISTRIBUTION of the loads. That is your problem. Its most common > especially in older homes, where extra outlets and stuff were added later, > usually by a home handyman. > I have rewired many older homes and this is the most common problem. > If you add up ALL the actual wattages of your appliances, including the > main > AC unit or window AC units, which are heavy loads, you will find you are > barely close to 100A, or maybe a bit over. But, you never run everything > in > the house at one time. A typical panel in fact has breakers that total up > to 30% or so over the panel's actual rating, for the reason that > everything > is not used at one time. > > Mark Oppat > > > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message > news:RV1sf.2851$nu6.2087@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> Mark, >> >> It seems to me the 200 amp breaker box has been a standard for many >> years, >> and many newer homes are using 300 amp boxes. My home was built in 1980 > and >> has a 200 amp box. It appears adequate for my use, except for a couple >> of >> things. First, I have a microwave oven that mounts above the range. > These >> things got populat just after this house was built, so originally it just >> had a hood with light and fan. Whatever, it is on a 15 amp breaker, and > it >> seems half the house is on this same 15 amp breaker. My "shop" conplete >> with lights, computer, and test equipment, the garage, the family room, > the >> dining room light, and the living room. If my wife is cooking dinner and >> the computer and lights are on, I find myself getting a flashlight and > going >> outside to reset the breaker. Now -- on the kitchen counter there's an >> outlet with a 20 amp breaker, another outlet with a 20 amp breaker, and >> in >> the dining room there's an outlet with a 20 amp breaker. I suppose > they're >> thinking that a microwave can go into one, a portable oven into another, > and >> a serious bunwarmer into yet another. Someday when I get energetic I'll >> t > ry >> and run another outlet behind the microwave from one of the kitchen > outlets. >> >> The other problem is an air compressor in the garage. It pulls some >> current, and is on the same breaker as -- you guessed it -- the rest of > the >> house. Wiring a new outlet for this may be tough; it is on an outside > wall, >> on the opposite side of the house from the breaker box. >> >> Now, with a collection of old radios, if they were to be turned on all at >> the same time . . . are you sure 150 amps is enough? >> >> >> -- >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> >> "Mark Oppat" wrote in message >> news:jf-dnaNxKPE7Oy3eRVn-og@comcast.com... >> > around here its rare to have any outside disconnect unless the service >> > panel >> > (breaker box) is more than 3' from where the mains cable enters into >> > the >> > home. In that case, an outside disconnect is required. >> > >> > I dont recommend 200A panels. Its overkill. 100 to 150A is plenty >> > for >> > any >> > normal home, but you want to make sure you have plenty of breaker slots >> > for >> > your needs. >> > >> > If you have a good size in -home shop, 200A might be a good idea. >> > >> > Mark Oppat >> > >> > >> > "xrongor" wrote in message >> > news:doq4sd$f4vj$1@news3.infoave.net... >> >> >> >> "Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message >> >> news:MU%rf.8052$hI1.799@tornado.socal.rr.com... >> >> > Mark Oppat wrote: >> >> >> code that I have heard is that all new service panels must have a >> >> >> 8' >> >> >> copper ground rod driven in the earth near the panel (maybe within > 6', >> >> >> I dont recall). You must also bond the cold water pipe in the >> >> >> house >> >> >> to this. >> >> > >> >> > Typically straight down from the service panel. By the way, this is > the >> >> > OMLY ground to the electrical system, and the NEUTRAL is also bonded > to >> >> > the panel ground at this point. >> >> >> >> i just want to clarify a technical point. normally (assuming somewhat >> >> modern electrical system) you have a box outside the house with a >> >> meter >> >> on >> >> it and usually a breaker. im guessing this is what you are calling >> >> the >> >> service panel, but im not sure which is why i felt compelled to post. >> > that >> >> feeds the panel inside your house. >> >> >> >> it is most correct for the neutral and ground to tie together ONLY at > the >> >> outside box, running the ground wire to the rod from there. there are >> > other >> >> ways you could hook it up that are safe and would work, but why go > second >> >> best. what you do NOT want to do is have it tied together at both. >> >> >> >> if you are having new wiring put in, join it only at the box outside > the >> >> house with the meter on it. >> >> >> >> randy >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> > >> > >> >> >> > > > Article: 328237 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 02:17:47 -0700 Message-ID: References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> "GBrown" wrote in message news:Y5idnakRiadOIy3eRVn-gQ@gwi.net... > Ground rods are spaced no less than 6' apart, not 2'. Ground rods are not > copper but are copper clad or they can be galvanized. yeah now that i go look i guess it is about 6'. figured it was obvious you would use proper grounding rods. sorry i didnt list all the chemical formulas. but hey. if you're wiring a house soley based on info you got off a newsgroup on the internet now matter who's the one supplying the info... god help you lol. randy Article: 328238 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Zenith 5S127 spring tension adjustment Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 06:33:02 -0700 Message-ID: <29649-43B1428E-1186@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> References: <1135658163.435370.134870@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> It fits behind the washer on the gear below it Article: 328239 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> <77mdnZZCgY9lei3eRVn-vw@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 14:13:44 GMT xrongor wrote: > so somebody tell me this. why is it ok to use 15A outlets on 20A breakers? > > randy Because most appliances etc. don't pull the full 20A. They do make 20A rated U-ground outlets. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 328240 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: John Bartley Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> Message-ID: <6icsf.749$Yk2.82074@news20.bellglobal.com> Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 09:34:54 -0500 GBrown wrote: If you have a well, > you don't need to ground to that pipe as 99% are plastic. Just a note : While the water system pipe(s) are likely plastic, the well casing is usually iron and sometimes, depending on how you access the opening, is exposed above ground. If you are using a submersible pump, the pump wiring ground is always bonded to the well casing and also to the house wiring system. cheers Article: 328241 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" Subject: Secret Santa Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 15:01:29 GMT Christmas is over, so I suppose it's time for everyone to tell us about the Secret Santa gifts you received. Mine was mixed, in more ways than one. I received a box full of parts -- terminal strips, connectors, etc., most of which I can definitely use in the shop. There were also a couple of loop antennas, which is why I asked recently about using a loop with an AMT-3000 transmitter. (The answer by the way is to make a loop using the existing wire, and retuning). Also in the box was a Sencore TF-46 Super Cricket. This is one of those pieces of test equipment that I hadn't paid attention to till now -- an in-circuit transistor tester. Wow, I can really use this, but the question is, is it any good? The batteries leaked, so I removed them, cleaned the contacts, and installed new batteries. Pressing the Battery Test button, the meter moves partway over and sticks. So, I disassembled the tester and cleaned out the meter. With the movement very much improved, I reassembled it. Pressing the Battery Test button, the meter pegged to the left, and then quit entirely. Strange. I marked the wires before removing so as to keep polarity correct, and even if reversed, the current through the movement is the same so it shouldn't open. Still I decided my best bet may be to send it to Sencore and have them fix/calibrate it. A few days later I received a phone call from Sencore. The battery contacts are corroded, they no longer make them, and therefore they can't fix it. Sounds like a real cop-out answer to me. The only other thing I learned is that there definitely is more to the problem than the contacts, but they stopped troubleshooting when they saw the corrosion. I was told that for a $65 troubleshooting fee they would return it. I protested, saying that on their website they claimed they have full support for this product. If they don't have a part, that's one thing, but please don't say you can fix it, tell me you can't, then charge me for not fixing it! So a manager intervened, and I'm getting it back for the price of shipping. I also purchased a manual (which I hope has a schematic). I'd really like to have this, so I'll have to decide my next step. It may be to take a crap shoot and buy one cheap on eBay, and use parts from both to make a good one. This one is actually very clean, and may only need battery contacts and a meter movement. Whatever, I'll certainly keep everyone updated. In any case, I appreciate the gift. A working Super Cricket would be far more value than what any of us can expect. This, just like many of my radio projects, will be one of those things where I'll someday be rewarded for my tinkering. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 328242 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43B16913.C7729E85@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: The 50 Greatest Gadgets of the Past 50 Years References: <1135572942.054163.269980@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1135626893.267061.31210@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <1135647210.675125.163100@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 16:17:44 GMT Uncle Peter wrote: > > wrote in message > news:1135647210.675125.163100@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > >> I have pix of trains crews c. 1970 carrying around their radios. I > > don't have a website. I'm sure similar pix are online now. > > > Before the Motorola lunchboxes, they also used WABCO Duophones. > They were kind of neat, being first generation solid state, and even > had a Collins 15-kHz mechanical filter in the receiver IF. I think I still > have one laying around in my "museum" (i.e. cellar). > > Pete Do you keep your submarine in the "Sub Cellar" ? ;-) -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 328243 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43B16A6B.A1B0B5F1@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: A bit OT - Looking for a dial cord diagram References: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 16:23:28 GMT jim menning wrote: > > You may need to find someone with a set of Sam's MHF (modular hi-fi) manuals. It is > covered in volume #68 of that series. > > jim menning I have that one. I'll dig it out and scan it for you. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 328244 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43B17057.4DB773C2@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 16:48:45 GMT Mark Oppat wrote: > > around here its rare to have any outside disconnect unless the service panel > (breaker box) is more than 3' from where the mains cable enters into the > home. In that case, an outside disconnect is required. > > I dont recommend 200A panels. Its overkill. 100 to 150A is plenty for any > normal home, but you want to make sure you have plenty of breaker slots for > your needs. > > If you have a good size in -home shop, 200A might be a good idea. > > Mark Oppat 200 Amp is the standard around here. When i had central air put in five years ago the inspector made the comment that I should replace the 150 Amp service, and hinted that they wouldn't approve the wiring on the Central AC/heat pump /Electric heater. A different inspector did the final, and it passed. I have a question for you, Mark. Why would you WANT to put in a smaller service? At some point in the future you will need to add something. Its cheaper to do it once, and do it right than add on extra breaker boxes. I should know, My property has a total of eight breaker boxes, several of which were added on to provide more circuits. I will be replacing several to eliminate the extra boxes, and to standardize on one brand of breaker, instead of the three non-compatible types I have right now. The cheap bastards who built the place ran a number of circuits around the fence line. The used indoor Romex without conduit, and splice the wire by simply twisting the wires together, and wrapping it with cheap electrical tape. There was horse fencing around the property line, and several of the lines caught fire. The breaker tripped on one, and I caught the second with smoke pouring out of it. I have also had the ground buss bar burn in one 100 Amp box, and one of the "hot" buss bars in another 100 Amp box. that is another reason to use a higher current breaker box. the first one that burnt was outdoors, on a wooden pole so it couldn't do much damage, but the second was in flames when i heard the frying sound of the buss bar burning where it had separated and was arching. It set half the breakers on fire, and was mounted in a wood framed wall, covered with wood paneling. If I hadn't heard it I would have lost my home. I beat the flames out with my bare hands and shut off the main breaker, but the breaker box and most of the breakers were destroyed. If it had been a higher current box it wouldn't have been as easy to fail in this way. It took months to get rid of the odor of burnt bakelite by using commercial odor removal chemicals, and leaving the doors and windows open as much as possible. i still catch faint traces from time to time. I was luck, because I have a separate cottage behind the house that I lived in while I worked to get rid of that stench. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 328245 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" References: <43B16A6B.A1B0B5F1@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: A bit OT - Looking for a dial cord diagram Message-ID: <1jesf.1604$h24.264@trndny05> Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 16:52:13 GMT Mike, FANTASTIC. My email is paul at ppinyot dot com. Thanks a bunch. Paul. "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message news:43B16A6B.A1B0B5F1@earthlink.net... > jim menning wrote: >> >> You may need to find someone with a set of Sam's MHF (modular hi-fi) >> manuals. It is >> covered in volume #68 of that series. >> >> jim menning > > > I have that one. I'll dig it out and scan it for you. > > -- > Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to > prove it. > > Michael A. Terrell > Central Florida Article: 328246 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43B1718E.BC51A76B@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Ot Microsoft IE 6.0 from hell References: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 16:53:56 GMT William Sommerwerck wrote: > > > I've been using Firefox. It seems to run a bit cleaner than IE. > > Also, it doesn't use active scripting, one of IE's security-leak > > problems. > > But you can disable active scripting in IE. You can also let "trusted" sites > have full access to all IE features. > > Back in July, when I switched to cable modem, I was hit with all sorts of > malware. After installing various "protective" software products, and > thoroughly _analyzing_ what was going on, I swatted the junk, and it hasn't > come back. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Are you using a hardware firewall between you and the cable modem? > Hint: When you find malware, don't remove it. Instead, make the files > (including graphics and DLLs) non-executable and non-modifyable. This way, > it can't be reinstalled (at least, not in the same directories with the same > file names). Great idea! The next time someone brings me a computer that won't boot, that has over 4000 pieces of spyware, and over 700 viri, worms and trojans I can spent the rest of my life fixing one computer. I'd rather remove the crap, repair the infected system files and install software to protect the computer in the future. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 328247 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43B173C2.70A0046D@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Audio Phoolery Runs Amok!!! References: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 17:03:20 GMT Gary Tayman wrote: > > Personally I think the best way to provide power to a good audiophile stereo > is to use a generator. Of course the generator noise will drown out the > sound of the stereo . . . > > That's the price you pay for quality! > > -- > Gary E. Tayman You would think so, but if you look at the 60 Hz AC waveform from a small generator you'll change your mind. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 328248 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bill Jeffrey Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 10:09:44 -0700 GBrown wrote: > Ground rods are spaced no less than 6' apart, not 2'. Yes, that was true at least as long ago as 30 years, when I wired up my camp (cabin or cottage to you non-Mainers) in mid-Maine. I think the requirement for 2 ground rods in different places is an attempt to find at least some electrical contact with "ground" even in poorly-conductive soils. Boy, was that true in my location! I had to drive rods in more than 20 locations before I found 2 that would admit the rods more than about 18" into the ground. Damned granite boulders ...! > If your using a 200 amp service and trip breakers, either you have a none > balanced situation or to small of wire to do the job. I'm unclear on how "to small of wire" can trip breakers. Undersized conductors have too much resistance, which will reduce load current and may heat up - which is dangerous, of course. But how would it INCREASE current, and thereby pop breakers? Bill Jeffrey Article: 328249 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 17:19:28 GMT Bill Jeffrey wrote: > I'm unclear on how "to small of wire" can trip breakers. Undersized > conductors have too much resistance, which will reduce load current and > may heat up - which is dangerous, of course. But how would it INCREASE > current, and thereby pop breakers? In the tool repair business, I'd see that all the time. People would by an air compressor and run it on a 50' cord. With the voltage drop in the cord, the motor would see an under voltage situation and draw excessive current and over heat. Air hose is considerably cheaper than extension cords. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 328250 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bill Jeffrey Subject: Re: Secret Santa References: Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 10:21:18 -0700 Gary - If you get the manual, and it has a schematic, I hope you'll consider putting one or both on bama. No, I don't have a cricket, but I just generally consider it to be good practice. OK, flame suit on, everyone. Tell me about copyrights from the company that refused to honor their support commitment. Or what the hell, Gary, take the high road and ask Sencore if it is OK to post it in its entirety. Bill Jeffrey ================================== Gary Tayman wrote: > Still I decided my best bet may > be to send it to Sencore and have them fix/calibrate it. > > I also purchased a manual (which I hope has a schematic). Article: 328251 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <1135640953.640470.129660@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1135695874.051676.267890@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: crystal detector set, was (Re: Proposed Eico Tone Control Mod) Message-ID: <1Jfsf.35516$Mi5.20733@dukeread07> Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 13:27:37 -0500 "John Byrns" wrote in message news:jbyrns-2712051125530001@216-80-74-219.d.enteract.com... > In article <1135695874.051676.267890@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>, > "pfjw@aol.com" wrote: > for voice and a bit of instrument... maybe. > > Why would the audio bandwidth be restricted to "2Hz"? I am assuming you > meant 2 kHz, not "2 Hz". The audio bandwidth can be anything you want, it > depends only on the loaded Q of the tuned circuits, which is not the same > thing as the coil Q. The J.W.Miller set mentioned in the original post > has a wide audio bandwidth. > > > Regards, > > John Byrns > > > Loaded Q, and the frequency... (Arithmetic selectivity..) Pete Article: 328252 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Chris F." Subject: Wanted to Trade: Philco Cathedral Chassis' Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 18:42:56 GMT I recently acquired a bunch of radios and parts, and among them was a nice Philco 20 cabinet. There was a Philco chassis there too, but unfortunately it is a model 50 and will not quite fit the cabinet. Does anyone out there have a model 20 chassis they'd like to trade for my model 50? Condition isn't important as long as it's intact, and basically restorable, which is what my 50 chassis appears to be. Thanks. Article: 328253 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Chris F." Subject: Identifying Catalin Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 18:46:04 GMT Is there any basic procedure for identifying catalin from plastic? I got a couple of neat-looking radios the other day, I doubt they're really cataling based on my luck, but having never seen a real catalin radio I can't be sure. One cabinet is white with butterscotch swirls, and another is a blue with yellow/green speckles. I think they are both GE and RCA sets, if they were Addison I don't think there'd be any doubt as to what they really are! Thanks for any help. Article: 328254 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: Subject: Re: Identifying Catalin Message-ID: <%%fsf.10129$7S.7168@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 18:48:27 GMT "Chris F." wrote in message news:MZfsf.145941$Ph4.4460663@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca... > Is there any basic procedure for identifying catalin from plastic? I got a > couple of neat-looking radios the other day, I doubt they're really cataling > based on my luck, but having never seen a real catalin radio I can't be > sure. One cabinet is white with butterscotch swirls, and another is a blue > with yellow/green speckles. I think they are both GE and RCA sets, if they > were Addison I don't think there'd be any doubt as to what they really are! > Thanks for any help. > > How about some model numbers and pictures? jim menning Article: 328255 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> <4ZWdnQ2idfbmESzeRVn-gw@gwi.net> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 18:58:01 GMT GBrown wrote: > In Maine, if you do your own work, on your own house, doesn't need to be > inspected. I should say, "inside work". Outside work can be done by the home > owner and must be inspected by the town before the light company will hook > up. Out her eon the left coast, Los Angeles, for the most part, if you only own ONE home, you can "owner builder". Things must be run through the permit process and be inspected. Smaller things such as adding an outlet, changing sockets etc are usually ignored. Additionally, if you're upgrading a service panel, you need prior authorization from the utility company. Usually just a matter of them saying "Yeah, go ahead and put the meter here." A lot of the homes built in the 50s have the meter in the back yard. If you do an upgrade, they appreciate (require) that you move it to the side of the house accessable to the meter reader. (You can still have the breaker sub panel hidden in your yard if you insist.) Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 328256 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 12:23:13 -0700 Message-ID: References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> <77mdnZZCgY9lei3eRVn-vw@comcast.com> "Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message news:s_bsf.8116$ka.4976@tornado.socal.rr.com... > > > xrongor wrote: > >> so somebody tell me this. why is it ok to use 15A outlets on 20A >> breakers? >> >> randy > > Because most appliances etc. don't pull the full 20A. > > They do make 20A rated U-ground outlets. yes but this makes no sense. you dont use circuit breakers because you are planning for things to 'work'. you use them because you are planning for things to go wrong. i mean, come on. dont you find it odd? the code is so overkill on most things this just seems very out of place. randy Article: 328257 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> <77mdnZZCgY9lei3eRVn-vw@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 19:27:51 GMT xrongor wrote: > yes but this makes no sense. you dont use circuit breakers because you are > planning for things to 'work'. you use them because you are planning for > things to go wrong. > > i mean, come on. dont you find it odd? the code is so overkill on most > things this just seems very out of place. Not at all. Most "outlet" branches have several outlets on them. That like suggesting that ALL lightbulbs have to draw 15 amps. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 328258 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Mueller Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 13:40:13 -0700 Message-ID: References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 13:47:18 -0500, GBrown wrote: > Bill: > When voltage drops, current rises. To small of wire will INCREASE > current draw and REDUCE voltage. Breakers trip because of to much current, > not to much voltage. Well, I take that back, there are voltage trip breakers > but I am not getting into that. That's only partially true. For example, if you want a 40W light bulb and you have a 240V power line to run it on (like in Europe and lots of other places), it will draw 0.167A. However, if you have a 120V line, the bulb will draw 0.333A. The catch is that you need different bulbs for the two cases, the first is a 240V bulb and the second is a 120V bulb. If you take a given bulb and reduce the voltage, the current will drop. Reducing the voltage reduces the current for most things: light bulbs, heaters, antique radios, most motors, etc. The main exceptions are electronic devices powered by switching power supplies and mechanical devices powered by induction motors. These do indeed draw more current as the voltage drops (this covers the compressors mentioned in another post). There are devices, mainly metal filament incandescent lamps (the common kind), that have a very high temperature coefficient of resistance. They don't obey Ohms law. Reducing the voltage by a certain percentage will reduce the current by less than you might expect. The heaters and filaments in all common tubes react the same way. -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eportiz. Then replace nospam with sacbeemail. Article: 328259 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 17:23:17 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: Qualitone Loop Antenna References: Message-ID: Nightcreature wrote: > I came across an old Qualitone Loop Antenna for use with early radios. It > consists of 12 full loops around the turnable frame. A lead with a pin plug > comes off at each end of the loop. However there is a push down binding > post in the middle connected to the center of the loop, making three > connections. How is this to be connected to the radio? I have a number of > old TRF units but most have only an antenna and a ground connection. The > only radios accessible at the moment with multiple connectors are a couple > of Scott Allwave 15 units and a large Gilfillan Neutrodyne. The Neutrodyne > is the only one with three posts. > > I have attempted a few things but am curious about the correct connection. Some of the early superhets used three connections to the loop. The local oscillator was injected in the middle. -Bill Article: 328260 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43B1B826.A5730F52@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> <43B17057.4DB773C2@earthlink.net> Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 21:55:11 GMT Mark Oppat wrote: > > Michael, > you describe several unique situations that the average home does not have, > such as horse fencing , externally mounted devices and panels exposed to > weather, etc. > The other failures you mention have nothing to do with loads, they are all > poor or deteriorated equipment. > > I say dont use 200A for two reasons, first is the much larger cost. NOT > just for the panel, but for the extra inspection fee, and especially the > service wire to the panel. Second, if you are upgrading, the utility might > upgrade the line for free, but they have the option not to, and that is what > happened to me a few times. I have 3 100 amp panels at one rental house, > and DTE Energy left the 100a service to the house. They said it was more > than enough based on usage in the home, and they are actually correct. I > had them fix a bad neutral, however. If you had a home shop or special > equipment like yours, they would do the upgrade. > > Mark Oppat The only place you can still install a new 150 amp service around here is in a one bedroom house or detached garage. the electric company wants extra capacity available for future use. Also, the heavier your electrical service the less variation you see in your line voltage. As far as "deteriorated equipment" one box was less than five years old, and the other was barely a year old. They were run too close to their limit. That, along with the high temperatures here in Florida, and that causes a lot of problems. Do whatever you want, but I only want to do the job, ONCE. Personally, I find it amazing the lengths that some people will go to keep from doing something right. So what if it cost a few bucks more? Its about 25% more for a 200 Amp panel If you by a 200 Amp panel package with the circuit breakers, it is about the same price as a 150 amp and buying them separately. Its built out of heavier materials and will last a lot longer. Its false economy to have to keep repairing or updating something. I have a 100 Amp panel in the garage, 100 Amp in the main house, 30 amp in the cottage (and a separate 20 amp box for the water heater), 60 amp for the laundry building and well pump, 60 amp for the central air & electric heat, 20 amp in the tool shed, a 100 amp disconnect outside the house and the main breaker box on the other side of my driveway. Its located there, because they do not want the wires over a driveway. At one time there were two poles and two meters, but they forced the previous owner to remove the pole next to the house and upgrade the other service to handle both loads. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 328261 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Terry" References: <_EXrf.2864$l87.90650@news20.bellglobal.com> Subject: Re: Hallicrafters S-53 knob? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 18:24:19 -0330 "Terry" had written message news:_EXrf.2864$l87.90650@news20.bellglobal.com... > I've either mislaid (although have vague memory of it perhaps getting > broken years ago, trying to loosen the hex headed fastening screw) one of > the smaller knobs, RF gain, Vol etc., band change of a Hallicrafters > S-53, finally, just repaired. > > Is there any chance anyone would have a spare? Or know a source? > Many thanks inded to those who responded (to the above plea) with suggested sources of a replacement smaller knob for an S-53. Been hoping that the missing one would either turn up, even broken and be repairable. It will no doubt 'appear' a few months after I've finished! Answers much appreciated. Terry From adouglasatgis.net Fri Dec 30 23:25:23 EST 2005 Article: 328262 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Alan Douglas Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 17:16:26 -0500 Organization: http://newsguy.com Lines: 20 Message-ID: <6ie3r11j5pv1trpiiepo7q52m0b7qai4b3@4ax.com> References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> <43B17057.4DB773C2@earthlink.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: p-546.newsdawg.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!canoe.uoregon.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!pln-e!spln!dex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news4 Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:328262 Hi, >I dont recommend 200A panels. Its overkill. 100 to 150A is plenty for any >normal home, but you want to make sure you have plenty of breaker slots for >your needs. Ah, Mark, there you go again, thinking for yourself. Naughty, naughty. Some people claim 200A is for "future needs." Trouble is, with the rates increasing, you want to *reduce* your usage, not increase it. Fluorescent lamps and modern refrigerators/freezers will go a long way to doing just that. This house has a 60A entrance. It's not small: five upstairs bedrooms, a barn, all electric appliances (range, washer, dryer, dishwasher, freezer). I run three 2HP motors. I haven't blown a fuse in years. Alan Article: 328263 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Tom Mills" References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> <77mdnZZCgY9lei3eRVn-vw@comcast.com> Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 18:06:58 -0500 > > yes but this makes no sense. you dont use circuit breakers because you > are planning for things to 'work'. you use them because you are planning > for things to go wrong. > > i mean, come on. dont you find it odd? the code is so overkill on most > things this just seems very out of place. > > randy > > The breakers are for protecting the wire. Number 12 AWG is rated for 20 amps. The breakers are not intended to protect the appliance. Tom > Article: 328264 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Ot Microsoft IE 6.0 from hell Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 23:51:58 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: In " Uncle Peter" writes: >One small problem remains--when I reboot the machine my connection >shows 2,900 kbps download speed. After a few days, this drops to >about 1,300 kbps. Clearing the browser history, cookies (all options) >doesn't improve the download rate--but rebooting the machine does! A drop in network performace can be due to many, many things. If the machine is loaded to the point where it can no longer pay attention to the TCP/IP stack, things will take a nose dive. Packets will be dropped, re-transmissions will skyrocket, and chances are the router or web server you're talking to will decide to bump your priority. To figure out what's going on with a computer you need two basic tools (think of these as a meter and oscilloscope): a process analyzer that shows what's running, and a packet sniffer to see what's coming and going. At the most basic level I use "top" to see what's going on, and "ethereal" to watch the network. I have no idea what y'all use in the Micro$oft world, but maybe someone else can recommend some trust-worthy tools. If I had to take a flying guess, I'd say somebody's got a memory leak and is chewing up core. This is far more common than it should be, what with all the sloppy programming going on today. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 328265 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Spokesman" References: <1135726594.843230.22440@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: OT...phase converters Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 23:55:36 GMT "Eddie Brimer" wrote in message news:1135726594.843230.22440@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com... > what do you know about phase converters? i am looking at a bridgeport > mill that has a 3 phase motor on it. of course i don't have 3 phase. i > have read a little on the net about building my own phase converter. i > appears that using the capacitor method, the motor only generates about > 2/3 of it's rated HP. which would be fine for what i will be using it > for. anybody have any experience with this. do it harm the 3 phase > motor? will it last? > A static (capacitor/transformer) convertor supplies a somewhat off balanced 3 phase power but will work quite well as long as the motor is not heavily loaded. A rotary convertor made from an old motor and capacitors will supply a much better quality of 3 phase power and can be built quite easily if you can find an old motor.. You could also use an electronic invertor with a single phase input and a 3 phase output. This is the easiest way to go but also the most expensive. Article: 328266 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Ot Microsoft IE 6.0 from hell Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 00:04:00 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <4uGdnTmq0Oyf4zHenZ2dnUVZ_tKdnZ2d@athenet.net> In "William Sommerwerck" writes: [I said] >> Have you read Bruce Sterling and William Gibson's "The >> Difference Engine"? It's about the information age coming >> to Victorian London via Babbage's machinery. I'm a big fan >> of the steampunk genre, and this one's a pretty decent read. >Wait until you reach the Really Weird sex scene, Never did like waiting. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 328267 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: secret santa came! Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 00:25:56 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: In Jeffrey D Angus writes: >It wasn't santa, but it was my wife. She bid on eBay and bought me >a Marconiphone Crystal set. I got that tonight. Oh boy! Another >project to work on. ;-) > Cool set! >Alright, who's got information and a schematic for this? Somebody, >probably related to Tim Mullen, converted it to some quack medical >device. That was Dr. Emilio Lizardo. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 328268 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: secret santa came! Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 00:28:25 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <43B0341C.4010107@socal.rr.com> In <43B0341C.4010107@socal.rr.com> Jeffrey D Angus writes: >It does have a interesting buzzer type transformer with a sliding >core. At 4.5 volts DC, you get a damped oscillation of about 25 KHz >and 400 Volts AC on the optput terminals. Yes, it's an EYE opener. Ooooooo!!! What happens when you give it rectified line? :) -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 328269 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Tom Mills" Subject: Anyone recognize this radio? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 19:46:37 -0500 Does anyone have any knowledge about this radio? The value and why is there two chassis, what is the model number. I can't find anything with the chassis number listed on the picture. I live close by and may be interested. . http://cgi.ebay.com/The-Royalty-of-Radio-By-Kennedy-Works-no-reserve_W0QQitemZ6591197959QQcategoryZ38034QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Tom Article: 328270 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: using the waterpipe as ground Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 17:49:46 -0700 Message-ID: References: <22v0r15437o03d9jblbeqjg21s1q3238d5@4ax.com> <77mdnZZCgY9lei3eRVn-vw@comcast.com> "Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message news:XAgsf.8105$hI1.999@tornado.socal.rr.com... > > > xrongor wrote: >> yes but this makes no sense. you dont use circuit breakers because you >> are planning for things to 'work'. you use them because you are planning >> for things to go wrong. >> >> i mean, come on. dont you find it odd? the code is so overkill on most >> things this just seems very out of place. > > Not at all. Most "outlet" branches have several outlets on them. > > That like suggesting that ALL lightbulbs have to draw 15 amps. no, its like suggesting that one MIGHT draw 15 amps. one MIGHT draw 20 amps...