From MAILER-DAEMON Sat Feb 28 08:22:10 2009 Return-Path: <> X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.1.8 (2007-02-13) on industrial X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Status: No, score=-89.8 required=2.4 tests=AWL,MAILTO_TO_SPAM_ADDR, SPF_HELO_PASS,USER_IN_WHITELIST autolearn=disabled version=3.1.8 X-Original-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Delivered-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Received: from listserv.albany.edu (unknown [169.226.1.24]) by metalab.unc.edu (Postfix) with ESMTP id 539B248FE5 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 08:17:23 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.13.8/8.13.8) with ESMTP id n1SDAZdi011456 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 08:17:23 -0500 (EST) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 08:17:18 -0500 From: "University at Albany LISTSERV Server (14.5)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0306E" To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Message-ID: Content-Length: 29666 Lines: 700 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 23:54:54 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mike Tooley Subject: Re: varroa controls update In-Reply-To: <3EFDF2A9.8080807@algonet.se> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit P-O Gustafsson wrote: > . From my experience it > takes no more than 30 sec to apply a sugar-water-oxalic mixture to a 2 boxes > hive in autumn. I found no difference in efficiency between the methods. > P-O Gustafsson wrote: > > > After testing both methods I must agree with Ari, there is no need to make > things more complicated and expensive than necessary. From my experience it > takes no more than 30 sec to apply a sugar-water-oxalic mixture to a 2 boxes > hive in autumn. I found no difference in efficiency between the methods. > My understanding was that drizzling was a one time treatment, to avoid side effects(from the Swiss study)while the vaporizing could be done more than once ,if necessary,as it didnt seem to show the side effects (weaker spring populations).Please correct me if I have the wrong impression.I am sure that drizzling goes fast enough,but is vaporizing safer for the bees? --Mike :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 11:12:02 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: phil MOORE Subject: Re: varroa control Drizzling MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Vaporizing oxalic acid takes 15 times longer than drizzling. Drizzling takes > about 1 - 2 minutes / hive. About the same time as placing strips. Drizzling > is also much safer. Oxalic acid vapor is not nice when you inhale it. > Is there somewhere I can more out about the above method? If it is as simple as stated why have we not heard more about it? Regards Phil Moore :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 08:28:18 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Re: Splits into 2 queen hives Chris wrote: > the 'swarm' is placed below on foundation mainly so that she > gets the benefit of the foragers and they have nowhere to put the honey but in > the supers. They also have nowhere to put the pollen but in the supers! I find it best to give at least a couple of empty drawn combs so that they have some space for the first day or two until they can draw some of the foundation. Peter Edwards beekeepers@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk www.stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk/ :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 07:59:44 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Bear wins round one MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Andrew Dewey asks about bear fences. There is plenty in the bee-l archives about bear fences. See: http://listserv.albany.edu:8080/cgi-bin/wa?S2=bee-l&q=bear+fence+&s=&f=&a=&b = That url has to be all one line! There used to be a great video at Jerry Bromenshenk's site (Bee Alert), but I can't seem to find it now, Has it moved Jerry? Good luck with your bear problem. Unfortunately, the best way to deter bears is to erect the fence before round one. Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 07:15:17 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Andrew Dewey Subject: bears win round one MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yesterday I finished cleaning up the remains of my bee yard after the bears picnicked on my 10 hives. Not fun. All of the frames were heavily damaged but with the exception of the frames and two inner covers, all woodenware was ok. Even the gallon sized glass feeder jars were undamaged. I was able to rescue one large cluster that is now hived at my home location. My question is, can anyone steer me to a Fort Knox quality fencing design for a permanent bee yard? The location is great (for me) bordering my blueberry land and open fields planted to clover and vetch. I just need to find a way to make sure next year the bears are kept out of the yard. (I have inquires in to Zareba (manufacturer of my solar electric fence controller - Agway branded Red Snap'R) to determine what flaws existed in my fence implementation.) Regards, Andrew Dewey (Happy to have found 5 nucs to pick up this evening even if I will have to feed them sugar water for the rest of the summer! They'll be kept far away - 70 miles -from the bears.) :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 21:38:42 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: CSlade777@AOL.COM Subject: Re: What do with contaminated honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 28/06/03 05:04:02 GMT Daylight Time, LISTSERV@LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU writes: << a killer moonshine, something like White Lightening? >> Yoon, Do you have white lightning too? Good, isn't it! It illuminates much of what I write. If you turned the honey into mead that should get rid of most contaminants as the yeast will just work on the sugars. Then if you distil the mead it will leave any unpleasant residues behind. Chris :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 12:18:54 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Alfred Meier Subject: Re: varroa controls update With the oxalic acid vapor this treatment is for sure the safest, you will reach 100% all bees in the colony and no site effects. Drizzling is danger to bees and queen. Vaporizing is like staying in the fog and drizzling like getting one or two bucket acid water over your head. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 12:03:20 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Alfred Meier Subject: Re: varroa control Drizzling MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Got to the website…..http://www.members.shaw.ca/orioleln http://www.mellifera.de/engl2.htm :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 13:40:13 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Keith Benson Subject: Re: What do with contaminated honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > > >Yoon, > >Do you have white lightning too? Good, isn't it! It illuminates much of >what I write. > >If you turned the honey into mead that should get rid of most contaminants as >the yeast will just work on the sugars. Then if you distil the mead it will >leave any unpleasant residues behind. > Unless they are volatiles with a lower VP than alcahol - then you will concentrate them! Keith "MMmmm, low molecular weight hydrocarbons" Benson :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 14:30:14 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: muses Subject: bears win round one MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit BACON! Just like the comericals... hang a piece on the juiced up fencing and they will learn quickly. Their fur is too long to notice anything other than on their nose but that tender mouth, now thats another story. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 20:22:04 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Re: varroa control Drizzling Phil Moore said: > If it is as simple > as stated why have we not heard more about it? WE have! Try: http://www.stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk/PENotes/VarroaTreatment.htm Peter Edwards beekeepers@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk www.stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk/ :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 16:20:32 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Timothy Eisele Subject: Re: bears win round one In-Reply-To: <002801c33e6f$f5415f60$1b75af3f@oemcomputer> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Sun, 29 Jun 2003, muses wrote: > BACON! > > Just like the comericals... hang a piece on the juiced up fencing and they > will learn quickly. Their fur is too long to notice anything other than on > their nose but that tender mouth, now thats another story. > I've got a 3-tier defense that is working nicely. First is a 3-strand barbed-wire fence on metal T-posts. The intent of this is not so much to stop the bear, as to (a) slow him down, so he can't just charge through the fence, and (b) make sure he is *very* well grounded electrically. Which brings us to the second tier, a 4-strand electric fence two feet inside the barbed wire, and baited with bacon strips. The fence energizer sends out 1-joule pulses, which is about the energy of a smart kick in the nose, so it is pretty peppy. The idea here is that by the time he touches the electrified bacon, he is moving slow and well tangled in the barbed wire, and the barbs will reach the skin for maximum grounding. It certainly gave *me* a powerful jolt when I touched both fences at once. If he gets through this, I expect he'll be pretty well traumatized, so when he reaches the third tier and the Critter Gitter screams at him, with any luck he'll either give it up and high-tail it out of there, or have a heart attack on the spot. I know the Critter Gitter certainly gives *me* a surprise every time I accidentally set it off. I'm not 100% sure that this will stop all bears, but it seems to work on the black bears that we have here. The electric fence alone works reasonably well, but after I got a bear that had apparently developed a taste for bees elsewhere, and figured out he could charge the fence and get away with one jolt or less, the barbed wire and critter gitter went up. He hasn't been back in the yard since. I've considered coils of razor wire, too, although that may be a tad excessive. I've already been informed that the bee yard is looking like a prison exercise yard, and razor wire would just push it over the edge. As a final touch, every time you go to the bee yard you could try urinating around the border. Hey, if other mammals can mark their territory this way, why can't we? It can't hurt to try it, and has the advantage of being free. -- Tim Eisele tceisele@mtu.edu :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 22:20:53 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: varroa control Drizzling MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Peter posted the below informative site: http://www.stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk/PENotes/VarroaTreatment.htm A couple direct quotes from the site and my comments: "Oxalic acid in its crystalline form is poisonous and should be handled carefully. It should not be allowed to contact the skin and IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE DUST IS NOT INHALED" As usual on the internet no mention of use of breathing protection is talked about. Only advice to stay up wind from the dust. A cheap dust mask might be better advice if not a respirator. "Thymol is a relatively safe substance to handle WITH GLOVES but is very PUNGENT and therefore best kept out of the HOUSE". We all know wax/honey picks up smells and at least one BEE-L person has said his honey was unfit for sale after use of the method at the site due to the strong pungent smell of thymol. Hmmm. Ok for the bees house but not for the beekeepers. Hmmm. I have never used either thymol or Oxalic acid so maybe I should keep my comments to myself but do wonder about the information posted at the site. Drizzle the bees for varroa and clean your frames at the same time I suppose? Bob Ps. Maybe time to invent a new beesuit for beekeepers to protect from bee stings and chemical hazards? 1. eye protection 2. breathing hazards 3.splashing hazards 4.hand protection A NASA space suit might work. At least we could climate control the space suit which would eliminate sweat headbands and overheating hazards! :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 00:11:08 -0400 Reply-To: jfischer@supercollider.com Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: James Fischer Organization: Bedford Advanced Technology Test Lab Effort Subject: Re: varroa control Drizzling P-O Gustafsson said: > From my experience it takes no more than 30 sec to apply a > sugar-water-oxalic mixture to a 2 boxes hive in autumn. I > found no difference in efficiency between the methods. and Phil Moore said: > Drizzling takes about 1 - 2 minutes / hive Perhaps I am just lazy and work too slowly, but I wish your time studies applied to my apiary work. My estimate is: 1) Smoke the entrance (15 seconds) 2) Wait for the smoke to take effect (1 - 2 minutes) 3) Remove outer cover, inner cover, stores chamber, perhaps a feeder (1 min) 4) Treat topmost brood chamber (30 secs) 5) Treat second brood chamber (30 secs) 6) Treat 3rd brood chamber [I use 100% mediums] (30 secs) 7) Treat bottom brood chamber (30 secs) 8) Wonder about the bees on the inner cover (10 secs) 9) Shrug about (8) "Get 'em next time." (2 secs) ...which adds add up to over 5 mins per hive. It looks to me like a vaporizer would pay for itself quickly in any but the smallest operation assuming that one can simply insert the vaporizer into the hive entrance and that it heats up quickly (which I hope is true - are the "dish" assemblies less than 3/8ths inch high? Less than 3/4 inch high?) Sadly, all this is a moot point at the moment, as I am in the USA, where the Environmental "Protection" Agency is glacially slow to approve anything except things like higher limits on raw sewage in drinking water. http://news.tbo.com/news/MGASK849EHD.html jim (Who feels that even a bad day in an apiary is better than many other things) :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 12:48:21 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Re: varroa control Drizzling Bob made some comments on my web page: http://www.stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk/PENotes/VarroaTreatment.htm > As usual on the internet no mention of use of breathing protection is talked > about. Only advice to stay up wind from the dust. A cheap dust mask might be > better advice if not a respirator. There are links from the page to safety data sheets, so I felt it unnecessary to repeat the information on my page. > We all know wax/honey picks up smells and at least one BEE-L person has > said his honey was unfit for sale after use of the method at the site due to > the strong pungent smell of thymol. This is likely to occur when the thymol is present in the hive for the whole year - I believe that there were trials with the Frakno frame that showed that levels did exceed the limits of detection (by humans) when used in this way - hence my advice to treat before and after the honey flow. Used in this way for seven years now, I do not have honey that is unsaleable or that has any taint of thymol. > Hmmm. Ok for the bees house but not for > the beekeepers. Hmmm. Yes - and I would not fumigate the house with oxalic acid or impregnate the carpets with Apistan either! Peter Edwards beekeepers@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk www.stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk/ :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 08:09:26 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Larry Krengel Subject: bears win round one MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have had bear problems in the past and have been honing my defenses a year at a time. These are black bears some of which run near 500 pounds in size. I built a bee house with small slats about a foot and a half from the ground where the landing boards can protrude. The house I built holds 8 to 10 hives and has a shed roof with open eves so bees will not get trapped inside. Large trap door windows open to allow light in when I work the bees. I built it from rough-sawn pine from the local mill which kept the price reasonable. Only once has the bear entered the house... likely due to my lack of diligence. The bears have clawed the house and chewed on the landing board. Each time I note this, I strategically mount a board with drywall screws protruding an inch to discourage such in the future. It looks a little gothic, but seems to be working. Ultimately, I hope to get a house that works well and I can just ignore the bear threat. Larry Krengel With hives in northern Wisconsin USA :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 10:39:15 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: bears win round one MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Muses wrote: BACON! Just like the comericals... hang a piece on the juiced up fencing and they will learn quickly. I keep livestock on our farm behind electric fence in certain areas. I have noticed a tendency to move forward instead of backup when shocked when the animal is not trained to electric fence. I believe the same happens many times with bears. A bear fence needs to be able to resist the forward push of a bear . The bacon has worked with some bears but when a bear learns he can simply push through a fence and his fur will keep him from being shocked only a strong fence will protect the bee hives. I grew up with a guy which could grab an electric fence and hold on for a minute. He won many bets. Money was his motive and the bears is honey. The electric fence charger pulsates its charge to keep from killing livestock so the bear gets a shock, then rest, then shock. I have seen bear fence hooked to 110 to eliminate the pulse but believe doing so is illegal. I have seen in remote farms 110 fence set up to control large livestock. You or I might not be able to let go easily of a 110 line but a 2500 pound Bull Buffalo can. Many northern beekeepers which have had to trap and transport the bear (or use other extreme measures) to stop certain bears from getting into bee yards pass an electric fence. All bears are different. Many a single shock is enough but for others the electric fence will not detour the bear. Especially when food sources are low in the area. Many times the conservation department will help trap and transport a problem bear (as they know the beekeeper will only put up with the bear so long). Problem bears doing havoc to bee yards in the Northwest seem to simply disappear. The beekeeper seems as puzzled as the conservation department at the disappearance of the problem bear. Homer Park told me years ago that they trapped and moved many a bear when they were running around 4,000 hives in Canada before the border closing. Homer used truck boom loaders at the time and loaded and unloaded the huge traps with his boom loaders. Many funny stories I have heard of upset bears upon their release and of scared beekeepers running to the truck after climbing up on the trap to release the bear and jumping and running to the supposed safety of the bee truck. I believe the traps they used are pictured in the article about the Wooten's done within the last ten years (in Bee Culture I believe). Bob :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 18:10:11 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: CSlade777@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Splits into 2 queen hives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 30/06/03 05:03:29 GMT Daylight Time, LISTSERV@LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU writes: << They also have nowhere to put the pollen but in the supers! >> Another delicious crop to harvest. Bee bread is much too good to be left to the bees. Chris :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 21:27:50 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Christine Gray Subject: BEE-L Varooa control by drizzling MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Jim said:=20 'Perhaps I am just lazy and work too slowly, but I wish your time = studies applied to my apiary work'. =20 The point to remember is that an operation on a beehive can always take = as long as u want it to. If u want to prove how long it takes, u do one = step at a time, with a pause for reflexion between. If it is a case of = 'job & finish', u take off the next roof while the first hive absorbs = its smoke - or even move so fast that smoke is hardly needed at all.=20 The advantage of these new substances that need only to be drizzled or = sprayed is the simplicity of the equipment. Vaporisers will be used by = the mechanically minded larger scale beekeeper. A quick swish will be = used by the hobbyist and deft-handed middle man. Vive la difference! Robin Dartington=20 =20 :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 22:01:09 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Kathy E Cox Subject: Re: Splits into 2 queen hives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 6/30/2003 6:24:06 PM Pacific Standard Time, CSlade777@AOL.COM writes: > Another delicious crop to harvest. Bee bread is much too good to be left to > the bees. > How much do you eat? How do you eat it? Kathy Cox :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::