Article 22965 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!saltmine.radix.net!not-for-mail From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: IBRA Date: 2 Feb 2000 08:05:43 -0500 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 12 Message-ID: <879a37$lgq$1@saltmine.radix.net> Reply-To: adamf@radix.net NNTP-Posting-Host: saltmine.radix.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22965 Did you know that this "beekeeping resource" is too "busy" to change my email address on their homepage? They also list beekeepers who have passed on. Interesting. Adam -- Adam Finkelstein adamf@radix.net http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 22966 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news4.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: hamilton@pbssite.com (Dave Hamilton) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Cluster not moving up Message-ID: <38982beb.149045875@news.usenetserver.com> References: <389785EC.132D3CCE@banet.net> X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.11/32.235 Lines: 20 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: admin@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 08:04:33 EST Organization: UseNet Server, Inc. http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 13:08:07 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22966 I too have noticed on a warm day (when you would open the hive anyway) the bees are all scattered in the upper brood box .. they may just be moving honey down??? If they have broken cluster, I don't think you need to work about where they are On Tue, 01 Feb 2000 20:18:36 -0500, hayfevr@banet.net wrote: >One of my colonies is not moving up due to a honey bound top deep brood >box and I'm wondering what the best course of action is. On the next >warm day I was thinking of uncapping the bottom portion of some center >frames. Will this make the top box available to them or risk the honey >dribbling down on them? It's winter here in Massachusetts but expecting >a warm up for this weekend. > >Thank you for any advice. > > > Article 22967 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!paloalto-snf1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!webtv.net!not-for-mail From: tenmoku@webtv.net (Hank Mishima) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Books on Bees Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 00:31:06 -0800 (PST) Organization: WebTV Subscriber Lines: 10 Message-ID: <25490-389699CA-78@storefull-102.iap.bryant.webtv.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAsAhQSQgPm/Tcpcz/AyiyyOD+NlMTw5QIUVDd7MuR91ssCC+aDi7vxqFddiA8= Content-Disposition: Inline Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22967 I started last year with HONEY BEES & BEEKEEPING A YEAR IN THE LIFE OF AN APIARY by Keith Delaplane ISBN: 0-9619031-1-2. There is a good video that goes with the book. This should be a good start. I also purchased THE HIVE AND THE HONEY BEE published by Dadant. ISBN: 0-915698-0-9. It is one of the main reference books for beekeepers. Very comprehensive, 1,324 pages. To contact your elected officials see www.vote-smart.org Article 22968 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!paloalto-snf1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!webtv.net!not-for-mail From: tenmoku@webtv.net (Hank Mishima) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Books on Bees Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 00:30:15 -0800 (PST) Organization: WebTV Subscriber Lines: 10 Message-ID: <25490-38969997-77@storefull-102.iap.bryant.webtv.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAuAhUAkQgYJUzk8uYjsg1624bxcRLwujoCFQCNfZMAWV3L44bXxhB8uq0HhoL5rA== Content-Disposition: Inline Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22968 I started last year with HONEY BEES & BEEKEEPING A YEAR IN THE LIFE OF AN APIARY by Keith Delaplane ISBN: 0-9619031-1-2. There is a good video that goes with the book. This should be a good start. I also purchased THE HIVE AND THE HONEY BEE published by Dadant. ISBN: 0-915698-0-9. It is one of the main reference books for beekeepers. Very comprehensive, 1,324 pages. To contact your elected officials see www.vote-smart.org Article 22969 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!206.132.58.120!gw22.nn.bcandid.com!hub12.nn.bcandid.com!tw12.nn.bcandid.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Jerry Ameel" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Michigan Beekeepers Lines: 9 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: <0tWk4.3725$4f5.969109@tw12.nn.bcandid.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.57.61.92 X-Trace: tw12.nn.bcandid.com 949236668 209.57.61.92 (Sun, 30 Jan 2000 05:51:08 MST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2000 05:51:08 MST Organization: bCandid - Powering the world's discussions - http://bCandid.com Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2000 12:51:08 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22969 If you are producing honey in Michigan, please contact me. We are forming an association for beekeepers in Michigan only. Or sign on to out list at: http://www.topica.com/lists/MHPA/prefs Thanks, Jerry Ameel webmaster@good-rich.com Article 22970 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Swarm Prevention Lines: 12 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 02 Feb 2000 18:31:56 GMT References: <8784go$bqb2$1@newssvr03-int.news.prodigy.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000202133156.26982.00001250@ng-cj1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22970 Nope Same question every beginner asks Same question I asked couple years back It will clog with drones or a virgin queen will end up leaving with a swarm. Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 22971 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Cluster not moving up Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 02 Feb 2000 18:33:45 GMT References: <38982beb.149045875@news.usenetserver.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000202133345.26982.00001251@ng-cj1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22971 If it is warm enough to fool with your hive put an an empty drawn frame or two in the center of the top box. Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 22972 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!bignews.mediaways.net!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Paraffin Wax Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 21:34:42 -0000 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 44 Message-ID: <879soc$eeu$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <949373112.674071@shelley.paradise.net.nz> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-170.lithium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news8.svr.pol.co.uk 949515852 14814 62.136.2.170 (2 Feb 2000 18:24:12 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 2 Feb 2000 18:24:12 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22972 I used a galvanised water tank set on blocks in the garden, 2 cwt of wax, a good fire underneath (anthracite) and an old vacuum cleaner on blow to get the fire going (rather like a blacksmith's forge). Wax needs to be at about 310F - too cold and you simply coat the boxes in wax. At this temperature it is like frying chips. Give the boxes 1 minute the allow to drain. Water is expelled by the heat and the wax is totally absorbed leaving the boxes dry and looking as though they have not been treated - however water simply runs off them in droplets. No need to paint - I treated a couple of hundred boxes about 15 years ago and then are still like new. Good project for an association, as you can treat boxes at great speed once everything is set up. Wear thick rubber gloves to protect hands from splashes of hot wax. Have a lid for the tank to smother it if the wax catches fire - happened to me a couple of times but the flames simply flickered around the surface of the wax and were easily extinguished (I had fire extinguishers ready but they were OTT!) Neville Brook wrote in message news:949373112.674071@shelley.paradise.net.nz... > Hi Kevin, > In NZ most commercial beekeepers use paraffin wax to dip their hive boxes > in. It is the best way to preserve the boxes and really penetrate the wood. > The boxes are then painted immediately whilst the woodware is still hot. (I > hear they spray paint them). The woodware lasts and lasts. It is not > usually a method used by hobbiests as it requires the paraffin wax to be > heated to a high temperature and we hobbiests don't have the equipment to do > this. Unless of course you know someone! > Cheers > Liz > > > > Article 22973 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!news.csl-gmbh.net!news-DUS.ecrc.net!news-MUC.ecrc.net!netnews.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: FW: Computers AND Apidictor Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 11:21:27 -0700 Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy Lines: 73 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: postnews.dejanews.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To: "sci.ag.bee" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Importance: Normal X-DejaID: _S7vnF8xsBK7sg4efIF2Kfw= Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22973 From: Allen Dick [mailto:allend@internode.net] Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 11:19 AM To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Subject: RE: Computers AND Apidictor Back to the wish list. Sound is interesting and has many possibilities, temperature sensing has its uses, bee egress & ingress counts can be valuable, but I think the main interest to me -- for day to day beekeeping -- would be an inexpensive and reasonably sensitive individual hive weight data stream accessible in real time at a remote location with interpreter software and an alarum system, possibly with voice synthesis and a phone dialer. Let me dream about what I could learn: * When a hive is approaching starvation * When and where there is a flow on and * Which individual hives are becoming honeybound * How soon a visit will be required * Which hives have ceased work and thus * Which hives need inspection, splitting, requeening, etc. * Which hive is likely to swarm * Which hive has just swarmed * How windy it is (rocking motion) at a location * Which hive just had its lid blow off * Which hive has a bear at work on it * Which yard has cattle or horses bothering the hives * Which hive is being robbed * When a yard of bees is being picked up for moving (Is it my guys or bee rustlers?) * When, how quickly, and how well my men are working * How many supers they removed and how many they replaced * When a skunk is bothering the hives * When a mouse is entering the hive? * What time of day the flow occurs * Whether working the hives is disrupting production * What concentration of nectar is coming in (night loss) * When my neighbouring beekeeper hops over the fence and looks to see why my hives are better than his In addition to receiving emergency calls on my cell phone from my computer reporting that someone was taking my hives away or that some hives were knocked over, I could routinely view several reports each morning: * Unusual Occurrences & Problems Detected * Previous Day's Work Accomplished c/w Schedule and other data * Unprofitable Yards * Proposed Day's Rounds (perhaps using critical and economic impact path analysis). * Work Required in the Next Week And on and on. All this comes from sensitive real time measurement of weight. The real time component of this data allows calculations of rates and deduction of a lot of important management benchmarks. Combined with hive numbering and perhaps bar code stickers on each hive, this system allows individual management of each hive. Hives that do not need attention can be passed by, and the problems dealt with. I would suggest that over 75% of the time and resources we now spend in hive management would be saved, and yet we would achieve better yields and colony health. Reporting and record keeping would be proactive, rather than reactive, and lead in time, rather than trail! allen Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 22974 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!torn!newserver!news.hwcn.org!not-for-mail From: "Keith B. Forsyth" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: CBC Radio and honey bee navigation Sat. Feb. 5th Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 18:54:48 -0500 Organization: Hamilton-Wentworth FreeNet Lines: 13 Distribution: world Message-ID: <87ag57$ij3$1@mohawk.hwcn.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.212.94.196 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22974 Hello: The Canadian Broadcasting Corporation's (CBC) programme Quirks and Quarks will have a discussion about" how honey bees find their way back home." http://www.radio.cbc.ca/programs/quirks/ The broadcast will be made on: Feb. 5th, 1209-1300 EST on CBC Radio One 99.1 FM. It will also be available in real-time, just go to the above website. Keith Grimsby, Ontario Article 22975 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.xtra.co.nz!not-for-mail From: "Neville Brook" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: When to requeen Lines: 12 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Organization: Paradise Net Ltd. Customer Message-ID: <949553654.52408@shelley.paradise.net.nz> Cache-Post-Path: shelley.paradise.net.nz!unknown@203-79-84-131.ipn11.paradise.net.nz X-Cache: nntpcache 2.4.0b2 (see http://www.nntpcache.org/) Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 17:49:17 +1300 NNTP-Posting-Host: 203.96.152.26 X-Complaints-To: newsadmin@xtra.co.nz X-Trace: news.xtra.co.nz 949553326 203.96.152.26 (Thu, 03 Feb 2000 17:48:46 NZDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 17:48:46 NZDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22975 Hi, I am a new beekeeper and I'd be interested in hearing views on the pros and cons of requeening in spring or autumn. I purchased a nuc in October with a new queen. I have a swarm that I picked up in early November - small - but doing extremely well. I also have an established hive. I'd appreciate any feedback. Cheers Liz Brook Article 22976 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: RE: Computers AND Apidictor Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 04:49:14 -0700 Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy Lines: 72 Message-ID: References: <200002021829.NAA10434@listserv.albany.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: postnews.dejanews.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To: "BEE-L" , "sci.ag.bee" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 In-Reply-To: <200002021829.NAA10434@listserv.albany.edu> Importance: Normal X-DejaID: _xiz/AIPid6yCt8UtRboD+ufVW2knlZsB?= Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22976 I received this note, and since I suspect the topic is of general interest, I am sending a copy of my response to the list. (referring to the wireless, remote reading, computerised hive weight monitoring system) > I presume a one-off of these would be rather expensive. If (a developer) > manages to get it right what do you think are the market possibilities? Simply put, and not to exaggerate, I think that such a system would immediately become a necessity for most commercial beekeepers in developed countries. I spend over $100,000 (US funds) annually for fuel and labour. If the savings in fuel and labour were 10% -- a very low estimate, I believe -- that is $US10,000 a year and $US3.33 per bee hive. If the savings were 25%, which is not unrealistic IMO, then that is $US8.33/hive/year, or $US333 per yard of 40 hives per year. Splitting that in some ratio between the beekeeper and the service would make both quite happy, I would think. Add to the above savings the increased income that comes from knowing what areas are paying off and which are not, the savings in insurance and losses from having real time theft monitoring (and tracking), the ability to monitor disease and queen performance on a hive-by-hive basis and we are talking a real income improvement for beekeepers using the system. After all, in business, the net profit is only a small fraction of gross receipts. Even a 10% improvement in revenue vs. expense can double the money in the pocket of the owner at the end of the year. Moreover the fact that, using the system we envision, hive visits can be managed according to measured need, not guesses. This can eliminate many wasted days and, allow more leisure time or time to deal with other matters. Such a system could be sold outright, but should -- IMO -- preferably be sold as an ongoing service with wireless connections, maintenance, software, and regular hardware and software upgrades included. The beekeeper would be responsible for all the field installations and report design (non-programming), the supplier for all the rest. Such a system would have to be entirely wireless, rugged as a hockey puck, and probably solar powered. If individual transducers were used, they would have to be indestructible, wireless and non-obtrusive. Maybe they could be in little rubber chunks that somehow go under a hive or the corner of a pallet and are polled by a wireless monitor/repeater in each yard. Alternately -- and preferably, perhaps -- a rotating laser head in each yard could monitor tiny changes in the height of a black mark on each hive and deduce compression of the hive base spring component, and then calculate weight changes, assuming there were some sort of compliant, yet resilient hive base component placed somehow under each hive. In this latter method, rain would cause swelling of wood and settling of earth under hives. This would affect the readings, but software should be able to filter such effects out, especially if an empty reference hive were used. We must remember that the data we require is all *relative* and more or less a continuous in time, not absolute single observations; therefore calibration is not very important, but consistency between transducers is. Absolutes might be inferred, but are not the goal. Simply put, we are watching weight *changes* in time and deducing meaningful events from the patterns that arise when such changes are expressed as rates and compared to other simultaneous data and defined historical events. We are _not_ trying to say what each hive weight actually is at any given moment. Empirical data could conceivably be acquired by conventional methods and used for calibration periodically if absolute values are desired, but I am not very interested in this aspect and suspect that it would be tougher to get right. allen Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 22977 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQdQ!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: Judy and Dave Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honeystix Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 09:19:24 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 21 Message-ID: <38998E6C.3434C09E@fuse.net> References: <20000203024842.14139.00000880@ng-fb1.aol.com> Reply-To: dublgully@fuse.net X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en]C-CCK-MCD compaq (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22977 Hey BeeMan, Kevin, did you hear about the tobacco quota cut. We heard yesterday, I think about a 40% cut. To all else: we now have an abundance of tobacco sticks! Judy in Kentucky Hk1BeeMan wrote: > >I'm wanting to package my honey in "honeystix". Does anyone know where > >to get the tubing, packing equipment, etc? > > > > they's a add in bee culture for a company that'll do this fer ya > > Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC Article 22978 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.new-york.net!newsfeed.wirehub.nl!bullseye.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!qichina.demon.co.uk!not-for-mail From: Godfrey Bartlett Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Is there a FAQ? Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 17:15:34 +0000 Message-ID: <3899B7B6.17800DA0@qichina.demon.co.uk> References: <3882AE12.96455CF0@flyingpig.net> <85vlsp$jup$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: qichina.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: qichina.demon.co.uk:194.222.176.192 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 949598159 nnrp-13:27885 NO-IDENT qichina.demon.co.uk:194.222.176.192 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 15 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22978 People have asked for a FAQ many times before, and generally the answer seems to be there isn't one for this usenet group specifically. However, Graham and Annie Law, Beekeepers from Leicestershire UK have published a superb beginners FAQ, and the latest version can be found at http://www.gandboss.demon.co.uk/ Godfrey http://www.qichina.demon.co.uk/EBKA/ ----------------------------------- Allen Dick wrote: > > > Hey I'm new to beekeeping and I'd like to know if this list produces a > > FAQ, and where I might find it. Thanks. Article 22979 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!nntp2.giganews.com!news6.giganews.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "dm" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: African Honey Bee Lines: 13 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: <_Pjm4.7060$d61.218096@news6.giganews.com> NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 12:31:22 CST Organization: Giganews.Com - Premium News Outsourcing X-Trace: sv2-vMnCVUnU+vzddoHXlyPQcqRlqAU4G5WPEteFFfGZtcxuWM0M0IpsXsbo7lJZXs+C3f+ZXJheiUJaR75!JJVaHFHmXy6yCPBbV4fFeyuTl0Nb X-Complaints-To: abuse@GigaNews.Com X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 10:33:26 -0800 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22979 Here in Washington State "we" are thinking that the moderate coastal weather will permit AHB to move all the way up here, and perhaps into the desert (yes, DESERT) of British Columbia, Canada. The last "formal" info I saw was that the AHB was above Los Angeles. A lot of us here buy packages from bee outfits in North-Central California. Needless to say, I wonder how much longer that will be safe? There is a Queen Breeder in Hawaii who can send you queens year 'round right now...for a price. I'll bet HE is beginning to grin from ear to ear! If Kona Bees were a public company, I'd sure buy shares. Anybody know anything???? Hopefully First Hand.... "DM" Article 22980 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!paloalto-snf1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!webtv.net!not-for-mail From: tenmoku@webtv.net (Hank Mishima) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Cluster not moving up Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 00:52:39 -0800 (PST) Organization: WebTV Subscriber Lines: 12 Message-ID: <8806-3897F057-4@storefull-101.private.bryant.webtv.net> References: <53Nl4.1991$Vy.189322@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAsAhQyoAm6b2pLI8tg6TScP0eF/09h6wIUEuvCbnA2z+T5LlE+oTgCoiAg3Ek= Content-Disposition: Inline Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22980 In Jan 2000 Bee Culture pp. 13 & 46 Clarence Collison states that a colony may starve if the upper chamber is honey-bound "since the cluster often fails to move up and remains in the lower chamber(s). In this case the lack of open cells in the upper hive body prevents the cluster from moving." He doesn't give a specific method for solving the problem. I would replace one frame near the middle with a frame of comb or foundation if you did not have empty comb. To contact your elected officials see www.vote-smart.org Article 22981 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news4.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: hamilton@pbssite.com (Dave Hamilton) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Books on Bees Message-ID: <38982925.148335546@news.usenetserver.com> References: <877tev$bkj$1@nnrp1.deja.com> X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.11/32.235 Lines: 29 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: admin@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 08:02:27 EST Organization: UseNet Server, Inc. http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 13:06:02 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22981 I also enjoy books on bees and beekeeping and have come up with a "classic" list. I would welcome other suggestions. The books are in no order The Hive and the Honey Bee" Dadant & Sons Scientfic American's Bees - Gould ABC and XYZ of Bee Culture A. I. Root & company Bees and Beekeeping - Eva Crane In search of the best - Brother Adam Beekeeping at Buckfast Abby- Brother Adam The Joys of Beekeeping - Richard Taylor The Dancing Bees - Fritch Hive and Honey Bee - Langstroth .. precursor to above Mysteries of Beekeeping - Quimby Natural History - Huber Honeymakers - Mosley Queen Rearing - Doolittle North American Honey Plants - Pellet Queen Rearing - Laidlaw The life of the HoneyBee - Maeterlink Treatise on Bees - Wildman <-- I'm actually looking for this one Femine Monarch - Charles Butler My Bee Book - Rev Cotton <-- I'm looking for this one as well The Management of Bees - William White West Hag Brown Berke - Job Lonsley <-- looking for this one too Bees - Gedde History of American Beekeeping - Frank Pellets The Biology of the Honeybee - Winston Article 22982 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: paul_bilodeau@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: spring mite treatment Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 20:18:59 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 29 Message-ID: <87cnrf$r1f$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <87bid7$l2i$1@einstein.greenhills.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.222.83.121 X-Article-Creation-Date: Thu Feb 03 20:18:59 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; Windows 98; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x23.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 209.222.83.121 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDpaul_bilodeau Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22982 In article <87bid7$l2i$1@einstein.greenhills.net>, "Dennis Crutchfield" wrote: > Hello bee keeps, > I live in Missouri, and am wondering, in what month in the spring should i > put in my aspitan strips in. > thanks in advance > preacher > > Dennis, from what I've been told, you want to install the Apistan strips a month or more before you expect to harvest any surplus honey from your hive/s. If you normally get honey in late June or early July, you might want to place the Apistan strips in your hive in late April or early May. An old-time beekeeper here in Maine told me that you want a full month or so for the Fluvalinate (Apistan) medication to work in the hive but, NOT end up contaminating your honey harvest. Others may disagree, but, this is the rule-of-thumb that I go by. You also want to make sure that it is warm enough outside for you to be able to open the hives without breaking up the cluster and chilling the bees. Good Luck. Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 22983 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!skynet.be!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: steven@newport47.fsnet.co.uk (Steve Newport) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: What sort o bees bee these? Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 22:02:17 GMT Organization: Customer of Planet Online Message-ID: <3899fa3b.3629482@news.freeserve.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-5.pearl-scale-butterfly.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news6.svr.pol.co.uk 949615628 4438 62.137.48.5 (3 Feb 2000 22:07:08 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 3 Feb 2000 22:07:08 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.21/32.243 Lines: 14 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22983 Sorry about that. I have meant to ask this question several times but kept forgetting. During the late summer, in my garden, I noticed two bees that struck me as unusual. They apeared to spend the evening hidden in a gap in the door of my shed, every evening (that Ilooked) for quite some time. They looked like normal honey bees (size/shape) but they had a very light coloured but thick down on their backs which was almost ginger in colour. I wondered if they were some type of bumble bee? Thanks Article 22984 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.gamma.ru!Gamma.RU!news-lond.gip.net!news.gsl.net!gip.net!netnews.globalip.ch!news.vtx.ch!not-for-mail From: "Martin-Paul Broennimann" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Cluster not moving up Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 23:09:31 +0100 Organization: VTX Services SA Lines: 21 Message-ID: <87cuf6$fo96@news.vtx.ch> References: <389785EC.132D3CCE@banet.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: ge-dial-6-p11.vtx.ch X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22984 My advice is less intervention. I have 4 hives that do well and bring in plenty of honey. I mostly leave them alone - interfering little, just treating varroa and requeening and that's it. Bees have gotten on very well for millions of years without humans uncapping, cutting etc. So just relax and let them live for Christ's sake. a Иcrit dans le message : 389785EC.132D3CCE@banet.net... > One of my colonies is not moving up due to a honey bound top deep brood > box and I'm wondering what the best course of action is. On the next > warm day I was thinking of uncapping the bottom portion of some center > frames. Will this make the top box available to them or risk the honey > dribbling down on them? It's winter here in Massachusetts but expecting > a warm up for this weekend. > > Thank you for any advice. > > > Article 22985 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newspeer1.nac.net!news1.radix.net!saltmine.radix.net!not-for-mail From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Is there a FAQ? Date: 3 Feb 2000 17:59:54 -0500 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 20 Message-ID: <87d19a$dh1$1@saltmine.radix.net> References: <3882AE12.96455CF0@flyingpig.net> <85vlsp$jup$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <3899B7B6.17800DA0@qichina.demon.co.uk> Reply-To: adamf@radix.net NNTP-Posting-Host: saltmine.radix.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22985 In article <3899B7B6.17800DA0@qichina.demon.co.uk>, Godfrey Bartlett wrote: >People have asked for a FAQ many times before, and generally the >answer seems to be there isn't one for this usenet group specifically. Since the subject is beekeeping it's really hard to make a FAQ that spans the readership of this newsgroup and the whole internet. Specialized FAQs for different topics in beekeeping, bee-culture and hive products have always been encouraged, and a few authors have produced nice work! As always, There's lots of disk space available at metalab.unc.edu to archive any FAQs anyone cares to write--just email me to arrange storage and how you want the FAQ presented. Adam -- Adam Finkelstein adamf@radix.net http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 22986 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newsfeed.icl.net!news.freedom2surf.net!easynet-uk!easynet.net!peer1.news.dircon.net!peer2.news.dircon.net!reader.news.dircon.net!not-for-mail From: steven.turner@zbee.com (Steven Turner) To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: test post Message-ID: <949622619@zbee.com> Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 00:03:39 +0000 Distribution: world Organization: ZbeeNet computer networking for beekeepers X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 194.112.43.78 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 194.112.32.19 Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: newsread3.dircon.co.uk X-Trace: reader.news.dircon.net 949622886 28170 194.112.32.19 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22986 test post --- STEVEN TURNER Beenet UK Host. http://www.kentbee.com/ Email: st@zbee.com ... Platinum Xpress, Wildcat 5, Mailtraq......What else! Article 22987 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.tli.de!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: dead bee lava Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 17:37:40 +0000 Message-ID: References: <873v1v$dn0$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 949617939 nnrp-06:15038 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 26 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22987 In article <873v1v$dn0$1@nnrp1.deja.com>, mbarton15653@my-deja.com writes >Usual odd worker >corpse around entrance but also a couple of white bee lava (I would >estimate at about 7-10 days old) that had been chucked out of the hive. >Is this normal or do I start panicking?! Could you explain your estimate of 7-10 days as a larva? Apart from thinking everything is normal in beekeeping I wonder if you detect any varroa on the "larva"? If so, you may have a prize strain, which detects and removes larvae with varroa on it. Call in a member of your local association who has looked into this kind of thing. Otherwise in nature nothing is 100 percent and hygienic bees are just doing their work. I would not worry about 2. The other thing is that January is often the time when queens restart to lay and if the nest gets too big and there is a cold snap, the cluster contracts and may leave larvae to die, in order to preserve the colony as a whole. On the next fine day, off go the undertakers. However, this is most unusual as patches of brood are normally small and well within the cluster. April, yes. For what it is worth. Any other opinions out there? -- James Kilty Article 22988 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!news-lond.gip.net!news.gsl.net!gip.net!iol.ie!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389A216A.26670445@twcny.rr.com> From: JGinNY X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Cluster not moving up References: <389785EC.132D3CCE@banet.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 44 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 19:46:42 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.148 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 949624827 24.92.236.148 (Thu, 03 Feb 2000 19:40:27 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 19:40:27 EST Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22988 No, no, no. Just leave them alone! A low cluster is a good sign this time of year. A nice full chamber of honey above the cluster is JUST what you want. That is excellent. They are very well provisioned. Even if it does warm up this weekend, the bees are much better left without any disturbance to the winter cluster. During the warm spell, the bees will adjust the position of the cluster and tank up on honey, so they will be fine shape when the temperatures start falling back down. The only reason you'd want to disturb them is if the cluster didn't have contact with honey stores. Sounds like they are in primo condition, so just let it go at that. Unapping the combs like that is just going to result in riling up the cluster, dripping honey, and a whole lot of undue stress. Over the next couple months they will start eating away the honey in the upper chamber, emptying the cells as the go, and repositioning the cluster on the lower part of the (upper) combs. With such a good supply of food available, they should really take off when brood production gets underway. They will probably not need any feeding come Spring. The bees aren't going to be in any trouble with the hive as it is. (Unless the cluster is abnormally small, due to other problems that were already present -- mites or other disease.) Just having full combs of honey above them is _not_ going to cause their doom. JG nr. Ithaca (formerly Middlesex Cty., MA) replies: jwgbee@hotmail.com hayfevr@banet.net wrote: > One of my colonies is not moving up due to a honey bound top deep brood > box and I'm wondering what the best course of action is. On the next > warm day I was thinking of uncapping the bottom portion of some center > frames. Will this make the top box available to them or risk the honey > dribbling down on them? It's winter here in Massachusetts but expecting > a warm up for this weekend. > > Thank you for any advice. Article 22989 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: pete Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: spring mite treatment Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 23:51:12 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 26 Message-ID: <87d49f$45u$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <87bid7$l2i$1@einstein.greenhills.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.152.6.74 X-Article-Creation-Date: Thu Feb 03 23:51:12 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.5 [en]C-CCK-MCD snapN45b1 (Win95; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x42.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 216.152.6.74 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDhrogers000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22989 > "Dennis Crutchfield" wrote: > in what month in the spring >should i put in my aspitan strips in. > preacher ************************************************ Howdy Dennis -- You have good advice as to avoiding possible contamination of the Honey. Another factor is that the Apistan will be most effective when there is a small amount of brood. Now before the population explosion might be a good time to start. I will put in strips as soon as I can catch the bees flying freely -- and when I can find the time. Pete So much to learn - So little time ! ************************************************** Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 22990 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honeystix Lines: 13 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 04 Feb 2000 02:35:15 GMT References: <38998E6C.3434C09E@fuse.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000203213515.23287.00000722@ng-cr1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22990 >evin, did you hear about the tobacco quota cut. We heard yesterday, I >think about a 40% cut. > >To all else: we now have an abundance of tobacco sticks! > >Judy in Kentucky > yeah still cryin..... Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC Article 22991 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQdQ!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: ddempsey@tco.net (Dan Dempsey) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: African Honey Bee Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 04:42:08 GMT Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 18 Message-ID: <389a5802.5797244@news.tco.net> References: <_Pjm4.7060$d61.218096@news6.giganews.com> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.21/32.243 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22991 On Thu, 3 Feb 2000 10:33:26 -0800, "dm" wrote: >Here in Washington State "we" are thinking that the moderate coastal >weather will permit AHB to move all the way up here, and perhaps into the >desert (yes, DESERT) of British Columbia, Canada. The last "formal" >info I saw was that the AHB was above Los Angeles. >A lot of us here buy packages from bee outfits in North-Central >California. Needless to say, I wonder how much longer that will be safe? >There is a Queen Breeder in Hawaii who can send you queens year 'round >right now...for a price. I'll bet HE is beginning to grin from ear to >ear! If Kona Bees were a public company, I'd sure buy shares. > >Anybody know anything???? Hopefully First Hand.... "DM" At the head of the Sacrameto Valley (Red Bluff) I haven't heard of anything around here. Dan Article 22992 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: essexbees@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: ...resistant varroa Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 19:09:04 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 16 Message-ID: <879vca$run$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <38925A96.1860@ix.netcom.com> <86veas$1iu$1@news1.Radix.Net> <86vu87$sqd$1@bgtnsc02.worldnet.att.net> <8704i4$atn$2@news1.Radix.Net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 163.153.166.108 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Feb 02 19:00:23 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; Windows 95; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x34.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 163.153.166.108 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22992 the formulations of essential oils sounds promising. would it be acceptable to use thymol crystals in the formulation and using only 100g of thymol, how many hives will this treat? Is the effectiveness temperature dependent? Thanks for the feedback Tim > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 22993 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!newsfeed01.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!akk.uni-karlsruhe.de!rz.uni-karlsruhe.de!news.rz.uni-karlsruhe.de!not-for-mail From: "comp.robotics.misc" Newsgroups: alt.agriculture,alt.agriculture.beef,alt.agriculture.fruit,alt.agriculture.misc,bionet.agroforestry,sci.agriculture,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,uk.business.agriculture Subject: Harvesting process and stripper design Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 18:41:40 +0100 Organization: University of Karlsruhe Lines: 11 Message-ID: <87f30l$r4i$1@news.rz.uni-karlsruhe.de> NNTP-Posting-Host: i60p27.ira.uka.de Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Trace: news.rz.uni-karlsruhe.de 949686101 27794 129.13.7.67 X-Complaints-To: usenet@rz.uni-karlsruhe.de X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3612.1700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3612.1700 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu alt.agriculture:4177 alt.agriculture.beef:2163 alt.agriculture.fruit:9838 alt.agriculture.misc:11681 bionet.agroforestry:14926 sci.agriculture:40328 sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22993 Hello. Just take a look for pages: http://www.belsonet.net/harvester/index.htm http://www.belarus.net/PAG/Www/Default.htm Contacts in "Proposal to partners" Thanks. Article 22994 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.new-york.net!newspeer1.nac.net!easynet-tele!easynet.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!not-for-mail From: "David" Newsgroups: alt.agriculture,alt.agriculture.beef,alt.agriculture.fruit,alt.agriculture.misc,bionet.agroforestry,sci.agriculture,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,uk.business.agriculture Subject: Re: Harvesting process and stripper design Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 19:26:47 -0000 Organization: UUNET WorldCom server (post doesn't reflect views of UUNET WorldCom Lines: 33 Message-ID: <87f8qk$9u$1@soap.pipex.net> References: <87f30l$r4i$1@news.rz.uni-karlsruhe.de> NNTP-Posting-Host: 71-154-fol.intensive.co.uk X-Trace: soap.pipex.net 949692052 318 194.93.154.71 (4 Feb 2000 19:20:52 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uk.uu.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 4 Feb 2000 19:20:52 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu alt.agriculture:4179 alt.agriculture.beef:2166 alt.agriculture.fruit:9840 alt.agriculture.misc:11683 bionet.agroforestry:14927 sci.agriculture:40343 sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22994 I think the whole stripper header development in UK, involving Shelbourne Renolds was a fiasco. They were determined to retain the combine, and stick it on the front. I always thought that it should have been a simple machine, trailed by a tractor, like a forager, blowing the stripped material into a trailer. Then the drum and cleaner etc. could have been fitted into the grainstore / dryer building, where the guts of an old combine could probably have been utilised. As well as the grain, the dry flag leaf is also stripped, and this represents most of the feed value of the straw, and this can be separated. Of course barn equipment will depreciate a lot slower that mobile plant. I don't know who you are, or what your legal position with previous developers of the system is, but I for one will watch with interest! Best Regards David. comp.robotics.misc wrote in message news:87f30l$r4i$1@news.rz.uni-karlsruhe.de... > Hello. > > Just take a look for pages: > http://www.belsonet.net/harvester/index.htm > http://www.belarus.net/PAG/Www/Default.htm > > Contacts in "Proposal to partners" > Thanks. > > > Article 22995 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!nntp.primenet.com!nntp.gctr.net!newsxfer.visi.net!firenze.visi.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389B2CF0.C4850BB1@visi.net> From: Thom Bradley X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: alt.agriculture,alt.agriculture.beef,alt.agriculture.fruit,alt.agriculture.misc,bionet.agroforestry,sci.agriculture,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,uk.business.agriculture Subject: Re: Harvesting process and stripper design References: <87f30l$r4i$1@news.rz.uni-karlsruhe.de> <87f8qk$9u$1@soap.pipex.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 35 Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 19:49:38 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp40.ts2-1.norfolk.visi.net NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 14:49:38 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu alt.agriculture:4180 alt.agriculture.beef:2167 alt.agriculture.fruit:9841 alt.agriculture.misc:11684 bionet.agroforestry:14928 sci.agriculture:40344 sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22995 Quit cross posting this to alt.agriculture.beekeeping . We don't use tractors to harvest. Thom's Honeybees David wrote: > > I think the whole stripper header development in UK, involving Shelbourne > Renolds was a fiasco. They were determined to retain the combine, and stick > it on the front. I always thought that it should have been a simple > machine, trailed by a tractor, like a forager, blowing the stripped > material into a trailer. Then the drum and cleaner etc. could have been > fitted into the grainstore / dryer building, where the guts of an old > combine could probably have been utilised. As well as the grain, the dry > flag leaf is also stripped, and this represents most of the feed value of > the straw, and this can be separated. Of course barn equipment will > depreciate a lot slower that mobile plant. I don't know who you are, or > what your legal position with previous developers of the system is, but I > for one will watch with interest! > > Best Regards David. > > comp.robotics.misc wrote in message > news:87f30l$r4i$1@news.rz.uni-karlsruhe.de... > > Hello. > > > > Just take a look for pages: > > http://www.belsonet.net/harvester/index.htm > > http://www.belarus.net/PAG/Www/Default.htm > > > > Contacts in "Proposal to partners" > > Thanks. > > > > > > Article 22996 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.atl.bellsouth.net.MISMATCH!newsfeed.atl!news1.mia.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389B60F1.7660DE04@bellsouth.net> From: Michael Franklin X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 (Macintosh; U; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Breeders in SE FL Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------3C3B764E3ACACABF3D869CE7" Lines: 38 Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 18:29:56 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.77.215.38 X-Trace: news1.mia 949707006 216.77.215.38 (Fri, 04 Feb 2000 18:30:06 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 18:30:06 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22996 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------3C3B764E3ACACABF3D869CE7 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've called 5 breeders in FL. 3 have gone out of business and 2 haven't returned my calls. I'm looking for a package or nuc of italians from a local breeder. If anyone can recommend someone, I'd appreciate it. At this point, I'd even order from someone not local if anyone has one they really like. Thanks a lot. Michael Franklin --------------3C3B764E3ACACABF3D869CE7 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="msfx.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Michael Franklin Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="msfx.vcf" begin:vcard n:Franklin;Michael tel;cell:(954) 829-9705 tel;home:(954) 567-1705 x-mozilla-html:TRUE adr:;;117 NE 21st Court;Wilton Manors;FL;33305; version:2.1 email;internet:msfx@bellsouth.net x-mozilla-cpt:;1 fn:Michael Franklin end:vcard --------------3C3B764E3ACACABF3D869CE7-- Article 22997 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honeystix Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 03 Feb 2000 07:48:42 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000203024842.14139.00000880@ng-fb1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22997 >I'm wanting to package my honey in "honeystix". Does anyone know where >to get the tubing, packing equipment, etc? > they's a add in bee culture for a company that'll do this fer ya Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC Article 22998 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed2.news.nl.uu.net!sun4nl!uunet!ams.uu.net!nyc.uu.net!ffx.uu.net!news.greenhills.net!not-for-mail From: "Dennis Crutchfield" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: spring mite treatment Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 03:38:17 -0600 Organization: Green Hills/Chariton Valley News Server Lines: 7 Message-ID: <87bid7$l2i$1@einstein.greenhills.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: cv-141.cvalley.net X-Trace: einstein.greenhills.net 949570791 21586 208.232.214.141 (3 Feb 2000 09:39:51 GMT) X-Complaints-To: usenet@news.greenhills.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 3 Feb 2000 09:39:51 GMT X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22998 Hello bee keeps, I live in Missouri, and am wondering, in what month in the spring should i put in my aspitan strips in. thanks in advance preacher Article 22999 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQdQ!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: Judy and Dave Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: spring mite treatment Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 09:16:45 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 22 Message-ID: <38998DCD.3F890205@fuse.net> References: <87bid7$l2i$1@einstein.greenhills.net> Reply-To: dublgully@fuse.net X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en]C-CCK-MCD compaq (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22999 Hello preacher! When do you get your first honey flow? Do you get any early honey, such as honeysuckle, or locust? Here in Kentucky, this flow usually starts around the beginning of April or the middle of April. Count back your 42 days from whenever it starts, add a week or two, and you've got your "on" date. We usually put the Apistan on mid February and remove the end of March. That way we have two weeks to get the supers aired out and on. Judy in Kentucky Dennis Crutchfield wrote: > Hello bee keeps, > I live in Missouri, and am wondering, in what month in the spring should i > put in my aspitan strips in. > thanks in advance > preacher Article 23000 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!howland.erols.net!europa.netcrusader.net!24.30.200.2!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lauramleek@aol.com (LauraMLeek) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Russian Bees Lines: 7 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 05 Feb 2000 01:22:30 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000204202230.23220.00003208@ng-ch1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23000 Glenn Apiaries member.aol.com/queenb95/web/home OR 760-728-3731 They are in Fallbrook CA Laura Article 23001 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lauramleek@aol.com (LauraMLeek) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Haiku---------Bless You Lines: 3 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 05 Feb 2000 01:23:42 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000204202342.23220.00003209@ng-ch1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23001 Mild February bees flying today Life is good Article 23002 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.usit.net!news1.usit.net!not-for-mail From: "Ed" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Russian Bees Lines: 11 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 00:11:51 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.80.129.144 X-Complaints-To: abuse@usit.net X-Trace: news1.usit.net 949709511 216.80.129.144 (Fri, 04 Feb 2000 19:11:51 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 19:11:51 EST Organization: U. S. Internet, Inc. Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23002 Are there any suppliers of Russian Bees yet? How resistant to the Varroa are they? -- Ed Greenwell ceengr@usit.net helpachestnut@yahoo.com http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Canopy/1436/ http://www.angelfire.com/tn/americanchestnut/ Article 23003 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: drivy19@aol.com (Drivy19) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Lines: 12 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 05 Feb 2000 04:09:54 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000204230954.00857.00000390@ng-fi1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23003 Hi everyone :) Thanks to everyone, or anyone, who responds. I will be beginning my beekeeping this spring for the first time. But after doing some basic research, I know I am way out of my league. Many sellers of start up kits seem to offer different things. Does anybody have a recommendation on a good start up kit which including the necessary tools to collect the honey? I see there are two basic start up kits. One with only to get the colony going, the other to allow you to actually make and collect the honey. I want the one able to produce and collect honey. Any good companies to recommend? Trustworthy? And what supplies do you pros feel are absolutely necessary for a newbie? Should I worry about disease in a brand new hive? Thank you so much for answering! I looked back in the newsgroup and couldn't find any answers to these..Not that I would understand anyway ;) ~~~Sparrow Article 23004 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!newsfeed.usit.net!news1.usit.net!not-for-mail From: "Ed" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <20000204202230.23220.00003208@ng-ch1.aol.com> Subject: Re: Russian Bees Lines: 20 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 04:35:56 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.80.176.8 X-Complaints-To: abuse@usit.net X-Trace: news1.usit.net 949725356 216.80.176.8 (Fri, 04 Feb 2000 23:35:56 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 23:35:56 EST Organization: U. S. Internet, Inc. Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23004 Thanks very much! Ed -- Ed Greenwell ceengr@usit.net helpachestnut@yahoo.com http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Canopy/1436/ http://www.angelfire.com/tn/americanchestnut/ LauraMLeek wrote in message news:20000204202230.23220.00003208@ng-ch1.aol.com... > Glenn Apiaries > member.aol.com/queenb95/web/home > OR > 760-728-3731 > They are in Fallbrook CA > > Laura Article 23005 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.idt.net!netnews.com!newspeer1.nac.net!news1.radix.net!saltmine.radix.net!not-for-mail From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What do you think Honeybs Date: 5 Feb 2000 08:47:39 -0500 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 18 Message-ID: <87h9lr$ist$1@saltmine.radix.net> References: <389BE229.FB487EC0@crosslink.net> Reply-To: adamf@radix.net NNTP-Posting-Host: saltmine.radix.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23005 In article <389BE229.FB487EC0@crosslink.net>, L.E.G. wrote: >Hello Greg, >I addressed this to you 'cause you keep talking about Maveric for >control of varroa,but what does your info tell you of the Checkmite >strips.Expensive , I know but what are some of the other pro's and >con's.I used them last fall "after " the apistan and still got a 25 >count on stickyboard. > Hummm using a miticide not registerd for honey bees? Probablly shouldn't post this where the WHOLE WORLD can read it. :) Adam -- Adam Finkelstein adamf@radix.net http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 23006 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!newspeer1.nac.net!news1.radix.net!saltmine.radix.net!not-for-mail From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Russian Bees Date: 5 Feb 2000 07:43:41 -0500 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 18 Message-ID: <87h5tt$ee2$1@saltmine.radix.net> References: Reply-To: adamf@radix.net NNTP-Posting-Host: saltmine.radix.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23006 In article , Ed wrote: >Are there any suppliers of Russian Bees yet? How resistant to the Varroa >are they? Hi. It's fascinating to see this post about Russian bees. I'm using some Russian stock I received from USDA at Baton Rouge. I've had it for almost one year. I won't be able to test it for much varroa tolerance yet. Beware anyone advertising "varroa resistance". Keep up on the trade journals and what's posted here and on bee-l. Breeding takes time. :) Adam -- Adam Finkelstein adamf@radix.net http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 23007 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!nntp.flash.net!nntp.newsfirst.net!dingus.crosslink.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389BE229.FB487EC0@crosslink.net> Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 08:41:13 +0000 From: "L.E.G." Reply-To: gmt@crosslink.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: What do you think Honeybs Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Organization: CrossLink Internet Services 1-888-4-CROSSLINK Cache-Post-Path: pizza.crosslink.net!unknown@dyn55.c5200-1.king-george.246.crosslink.net X-Cache: nntpcache 2.3.3 (see http://www.nntpcache.org/) Lines: 7 NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.246.124.14 X-Trace: dingus.crosslink.net 949757600 26265 206.246.124.14 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23007 Hello Greg, I addressed this to you 'cause you keep talking about Maveric for control of varroa,but what does your info tell you of the Checkmite strips.Expensive , I know but what are some of the other pro's and con's.I used them last fall "after " the apistan and still got a 25 count on stickyboard. Article 23008 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.atl.bellsouth.net.MISMATCH!newsfeed.atl!news1.mia.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389C4E13.57CD311B@bellsouth.net> From: Michael Franklin X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 (Macintosh; U; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Breeders in SE FL References: <389B60F1.7660DE04@bellsouth.net> <87h5lb$do4$1@saltmine.radix.net> Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------409E3196EB9B7B9E55DB4558" Lines: 46 Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 11:21:40 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.77.215.18 X-Trace: news1.mia 949767710 216.77.215.18 (Sat, 05 Feb 2000 11:21:50 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 11:21:50 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23008 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------409E3196EB9B7B9E55DB4558 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In the Ft. Lauderdale area. I was hoping there'd be someone in the tri-county area or reasonable driving distance. Thanks for any help. Michael Adam Finkelstein wrote: > > Hi. > Where are you? > > Adam > -- > Adam Finkelstein > adamf@radix.net > http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf --------------409E3196EB9B7B9E55DB4558 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="msfx.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Michael Franklin Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="msfx.vcf" begin:vcard n:Franklin;Michael tel;cell:(954) 829-9705 tel;home:(954) 567-1705 x-mozilla-html:TRUE adr:;;117 NE 21st Court;Wilton Manors;FL;33305; version:2.1 email;internet:msfx@bellsouth.net x-mozilla-cpt:;1 fn:Michael Franklin end:vcard --------------409E3196EB9B7B9E55DB4558-- Article 23009 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!fr.usenet-edu.net!usenet-edu.net!proxad.net!grolier!club-internet!not-for-mail From: "apipop" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 09:55:33 +0100 Organization: Club-Internet (France) Lines: 99 Message-ID: <87hlrt$o3e$1@front5m.grolier.fr> References: <20000204230954.00857.00000390@ng-fi1.aol.com> Reply-To: "apipop" NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp-44-37-242.wmar.club-internet.fr X-Trace: front5m.grolier.fr 949770941 24686 213.44.37.242 (5 Feb 2000 17:15:41 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 5 Feb 2000 17:15:41 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23009 Hi beekeeper friends, I feel the most important recommendation would be to ACQUIRE A MINIMUM PRACTICE OF BEEKEEPING and later on start with your own material. As it is a FAQ from all newbees ;-) let me post hereafter a copy of answers to Jim Murray sent by P. Mizen and myself on 01/18/99. I hope they will be of good advice to you. Regards JC Treyvaud ""Jim, I started bee-keeping some years ago, just for fun. As I am of technical formation I red plenty of books about bee-keeping, and I can say that if it's true you can learn much from books, it's also quite risky. Experience of how to deal with bees is a MUST. You should find an experienced bee-keeper in your neighbourhood and spend time working with him for at least one season to learn by handling yourself real bees. Instead I am afraid you are going to a disaster. Regards Jean-Claude Treyvaud a french beekeeper Jim I agree with Jean-Claude's reply, i.e. find a local beekeeper to show you the ropes. By doing this for a season you will experience the highs and the lows - which is important. When you go it alone it must be with your eyes wide open. It will be great fun, and usually very rewarding - good luck, keep us updated on your progress. For a list of beekeeping contacts you should try your local library. From there should find details of either individuals or beekeeping groups. You can also contact your national beekeeping association - which country are you in? When you have made contact with some like-minded people, they will point you in the direction of equipment and bee suppliers. Regards Philip Mizen Jim Murray wrote<36A27EB6.58716DE@albany.net>... >Hi, > >I've decided to get into Beekeeping as a family activity and would like >to begin small. I have a great book on beekeeping and have done some >extensive reading on the Internet as well. It looks like a lot of fun >and could be a big benefit to our veggie garden as well. > >Can someone tell me a good place to buy a starter kit? I've found >several web sites that sell such kits, but being a beginner, I don't >know what's a good deal or not. How much should I spend, what SHOULD the >kit include for a beginner, where do I get the bees from????? > >Any, and all help will be gladly accepted. Thank you! > >Jim Murray > -- apipop N 43.64╟ / E 3.96╟ [WGS84] _ Drivy19 a Иcrit dans le message : 20000204230954.00857.00000390@ng-fi1.aol.com... > Hi everyone :) Thanks to everyone, or anyone, who responds. I will be > beginning my beekeeping this spring for the first time. But after doing some > basic research, I know I am way out of my league. Many sellers of start up kits > seem to offer different things. Does anybody have a recommendation on a good > start up kit which including the necessary tools to collect the honey? I see > there are two basic start up kits. One with only to get the colony going, the > other to allow you to actually make and collect the honey. I want the one able > to produce and collect honey. Any good companies to recommend? Trustworthy? And > what supplies do you pros feel are absolutely necessary for a newbie? Should I > worry about disease in a brand new hive? Thank you so much for answering! I > looked back in the newsgroup and couldn't find any answers to these..Not that I > would understand anyway ;) ~~~Sparrow Article 23010 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!128.230.129.106!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news4.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: hamilton@pbssite.com (Dave Hamilton) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: spring mite treatment Message-ID: <3899ea36.263296046@news.usenetserver.com> References: <87bid7$l2i$1@einstein.greenhills.net> <87cnrf$r1f$1@nnrp1.deja.com> X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.11/32.235 Lines: 36 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: admin@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 15:48:32 EST Organization: UseNet Server, Inc. http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 20:52:07 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23010 That should be 42 days before you put the supers on .. not before you harvest .. sure you just mis-typed Dave On Thu, 03 Feb 2000 20:18:59 GMT, paul_bilodeau@my-deja.com wrote: >In article <87bid7$l2i$1@einstein.greenhills.net>, > "Dennis Crutchfield" wrote: >> Hello bee keeps, >> I live in Missouri, and am wondering, in what month in the spring >should i >> put in my aspitan strips in. >> thanks in advance >> preacher >> >> > > Dennis, from what I've been told, you want to install the Apistan >strips a month or more before you expect to harvest any surplus honey >from your hive/s. If you normally get honey in late June or early July, >you might want to place the Apistan strips in your hive in late April >or early May. An old-time beekeeper here in Maine told me that you want >a full month or so for the Fluvalinate (Apistan) medication to work in >the hive but, NOT end up contaminating your honey harvest. Others may >disagree, but, this is the rule-of-thumb that I go by. > >You also want to make sure that it is warm enough outside for you to be >able to open the hives without breaking up the cluster and chilling the >bees. > >Good Luck. > > >Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ >Before you buy. Article 23011 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Lines: 23 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 05 Feb 2000 17:53:19 GMT References: <20000204230954.00857.00000390@ng-fi1.aol.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000205125319.25672.00001665@ng-cf1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23011 I started out in beekeeping without any previous practice in beekeeping, and have had pretty good results. I advise you to keep your own council, or at least be questioning and deeply skeptical of what other beekeepers tell you (including me). There is one person I am associated with who keeps bees who could have been a mentor. He has kept bees for six years. He had three of four hives die last year. He had three more die this season. Two died in the fall from a severe outbreak of a disease called American Foulbrood. The third seems to have died this winter, also with a bad case of AF. He is not disposing of any of his diseased combs or equipment as he believes he can control this disease with an antibiotic. What I'm telling you about is a very bad example of colony management. He also disdains wearing a bee veil or any other protection as "wimpy." Just because somebody has been a beekeeper for a long time doesn't mean he or she is a good beekeeper. Another reason is because management techniques for bees are changing so rapidly, the old "wisdom" becomes obsolete quickly and may actually be detrimental to your colonys' health. And finally, some old-time beekeepers keep themselves in new equipment by buying out the nearly brand-new "used" equipment of failed hobbyists at clearance-sale prices, so be careful about choosing someone you can trust to give you advice. Good Luck! Article 23012 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!24.30.200.2!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: drivy19@aol.com (Drivy19) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Lines: 15 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 05 Feb 2000 18:37:28 GMT References: <15541-389BEDA2-1@storefull-104.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000205133728.23222.00003163@ng-ch1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23012 >1. Read as much as you are willing. Further down this list are several >posts about what to read. > I am on my way to the library now! Boy do I have a lot to learn. > 3. Join your local bee club or find beekeepers in your area who may have >ways of setting you up with your first hive. Where do you live? Someone >here may be able to point you in the right direction. I live in a very small town. Sandpoint, Idaho to be exact. No bee clubs. I am a master garderner, but nothing to do with beekeeping. I may need to check in Spokane, WA. GREAT advice though Thanks for the tips. :) Article 23013 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: drivy19@aol.com (Drivy19) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Lines: 3 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 05 Feb 2000 18:41:33 GMT References: <87hlrt$o3e$1@front5m.grolier.fr> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000205134133.23222.00003165@ng-ch1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23013 Thank you for your response! Good, solid advice. We do not have any clubs here, and the phone book is blank on beekeepers here.. I will search some more. Sparrow Article 23014 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!feeder.qis.net!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQdQ!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: Judy and Dave Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 13:53:41 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 14 Message-ID: <389C71B5.E8606CE7@fuse.net> References: <87hlrt$o3e$1@front5m.grolier.fr> <20000205134133.23222.00003165@ng-ch1.aol.com> Reply-To: dublgully@fuse.net X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en]C-CCK-MCD compaq (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23014 Try, also, your local Extension Office. They usually know of a couple beekeepers, or maybe who might know someone at the state level. You can work your way down from there. Judy in Kentucky Drivy19 wrote: > Thank you for your response! Good, solid advice. We do not have any clubs here, > and the phone book is blank on beekeepers here.. I will search some more. > Sparrow Article 23015 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: mbarton15653@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: dead bee lava Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 19:09:33 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 13 Message-ID: <87hshb$dda$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <873v1v$dn0$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 194.131.242.170 X-Article-Creation-Date: Sat Feb 05 19:09:33 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 4.5; Mac_PowerPC) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x27.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 194.131.242.170 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDmbarton15653 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23015 Many thanks for all of your thoughts and advice. The majority verdict would seem to be a case of chilled brood. I estimated the soft white dead lava at about 7-10 days by looking at some photos in books which suggested that the lava pupate at about 10 days - there were 5 in total over a period of three days and none since. They were all about 1cm in length. I checked for varroa about a month ago and all appeared ok. I live in Manchester UK and generally over the winter the weather has been wet with the odd frost. I dont really want to open the hive until the weather warms up - I'll keep you posted Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 23016 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: mbarton15653@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: dead bee lava Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 19:28:23 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 12 Message-ID: <87htkk$e76$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <873v1v$dn0$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 194.131.242.239 X-Article-Creation-Date: Sat Feb 05 19:28:23 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 4.5; Mac_PowerPC) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x30.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 194.131.242.239 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDmbarton15653 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23016 Many thanks for all the thoughts and advice - the majority verdict appears to be a case of chilled brood. I estimated the soft white lava at about 7-10 days because of some photos I saw in a bee book and I understand they pupate at about 10 days. There were 5 in total over a period of 3 days and none since, they were about 1cm in length. I live in Manchester UK where the winter has been very wet with the odd frost. I dont really want to open the hive until it warms up - I'll keep you posted whe Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 23017 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.idt.net!news-FFM2.ecrc.net!newsfeeds.belnet.be!news.belnet.be!skynet.be!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!not-for-mail From: "Pamela Buckle" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 20:26:13 -0000 Organization: UUNET WorldCom server (post doesn't reflect views of UUNET WorldCom Lines: 34 Message-ID: <87i146$f8t$1@lure.pipex.net> References: <20000204230954.00857.00000390@ng-fi1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: userdn79.uk.uudial.com X-Trace: lure.pipex.net 949782470 15645 62.188.4.198 (5 Feb 2000 20:27:50 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uk.uu.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 5 Feb 2000 20:27:50 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23017 What you need is another beekeeper, to guide you past all the hol;es and traps for a year, then you will be able to make up your own mind and do it your own way, as the rest of us do. In any meeting of two beekeepers, at least three opinions of how to do something will be expressed. So know before you start that it's only the bees that know how to do things, the beekeepers just mess about in the background whilst the bees cobble aroud the problems they create. Find a friend, listen and learn, then go in deeper. Martin. Drivy19 wrote in message news:20000204230954.00857.00000390@ng-fi1.aol.com... > Hi everyone :) Thanks to everyone, or anyone, who responds. I will be > beginning my beekeeping this spring for the first time. But after doing some > basic research, I know I am way out of my league. Many sellers of start up kits > seem to offer different things. Does anybody have a recommendation on a good > start up kit which including the necessary tools to collect the honey? I see > there are two basic start up kits. One with only to get the colony going, the > other to allow you to actually make and collect the honey. I want the one able > to produce and collect honey. Any good companies to recommend? Trustworthy? And > what supplies do you pros feel are absolutely necessary for a newbie? Should I > worry about disease in a brand new hive? Thank you so much for answering! I > looked back in the newsgroup and couldn't find any answers to these..Not that I > would understand anyway ;) ~~~Sparrow Article 23018 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed1.swip.net!swipnet!nntpserver.swip.net!not-for-mail From: "STIG HANSSON" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <87bid7$l2i$1@einstein.greenhills.net> Subject: SV: spring mite treatment Lines: 16 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Message-ID: <0K%m4.6242$jg4.12259@nntpserver.swip.net> Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 20:32:49 +0100 NNTP-Posting-Host: 212.151.175.198 X-Complaints-To: news-abuse@swip.net X-Trace: nntpserver.swip.net 949782524 212.151.175.198 (Sat, 05 Feb 2000 21:28:44 MET DST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 21:28:44 MET DST Organization: A Customer of Tele2 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23018 Dennis Crutchfield: > Hello bee keeps, > I live in Missouri, and am wondering, in what month in the spring should i > put in my aspitan strips in. > thanks in advance > preacher Hi Preacher! What happened last time? I remember, you wrote something about many varroa mite left, and you wondered, if you should put in more Apistan strips. Did you get rid of the mite in the end? And have you thought about other methods? Doris Article 23019 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQdQ!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "Jenn C" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: clipping Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 16:56:50 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 14 Message-ID: X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3612.1700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3612.1700 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23019 Hi all I'll try not to start any fights today :) This spring will be my first with bees, the excitement builds. I placed a order for my first nuc today. here is where I could use some advice. I'm getting my queen marked but what about clipped? I understand the reason for clipping but am wondering what problems it might cause? Is clipping just a shortcut around good swarm control? just looking for some opinions. thanks Dave Article 23020 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQdQ!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: nitetran@operamail.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: help identifying a bee Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 05:46:06 GMT Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 36 Message-ID: References: <386F128E.16AEED3B@keelynet.com> Reply-To: nitetran@operamail.com X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset = US-ASCII X-Newsreader: News Rover 5.3.1 (http://www.NewsRover.com) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23020 >All I have on it is this painting and it looks >like some >kind of long tongued bumblebee but I've never >seen or heard >of anything like it before; >http://www.keelynet.com/temp/bug.htm >I would need its name and where it is most >commonly found as >well as where I could get further >details...thanks! -- > Jerry Wayne Decker - jdecker@keelynet.com > http://www.keelynet.com > from an Art to a Science > Voice : (214)324-8741 - FAX : (214)324-3501 > KeelyNet - PO BOX 870716 > Mesquite - Republic of Texas - 75187 Hi, there Jerry, I've got a pretty good book for the identification of bombus types, however, I couldn't open the URL you sent or the server wasn't on or had crashed, and couldn't see the bee in question. Why don't you just do a screen shot and post it as an .jpg attachment, I'm sure you won't get flamed too much. Humm...I see you're one of those republic of texas nuts. C.K. Article 23021 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.axxsys.net!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.icl.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What sort o bees bee these? Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 10:51:01 +0000 Message-ID: References: <3899fa3b.3629482@news.freeserve.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 949661713 nnrp-10:10500 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 25 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23021 In article <3899fa3b.3629482@news.freeserve.net>, Steve Newport writes >During the late summer, in my garden, I noticed two bees that struck >me as unusual. snip >They looked like normal honey bees (size/shape) but they had a very >light coloured but thick down on their backs which was almost ginger >in colour. I wondered if they were some type of bumble bee? I am no expert and would like to become more so. We do have over 200 solitary bees active in different parts of the year (and 19 or so bumble bees). It sounds more like one of the former I'd need a good source of info with pictures. Does anyone have one for the UK? I'd like to build up a worksheet for children to explore bees and flowers at Trevarno Gardens where I have a bee centre. The gardeners often find bees rather like honeybees and ask about them. Solitaries often choose stems of plants as well as holes in the ground, sometimes more than one female in the same place depending on species. German research has used holes of many sizes drilled into wood to attract the different species. If I come across a good source I'll see if I can identify them. -- James Kilty Article 23022 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!news.mel.connect.com.au!news.can.connect.com.au!news.interact.net.au!not-for-mail From: "Barry Metz" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <23010013.3133@nntp.8m.com> <20000123200139.26200.00000234@nso-ci.aol.com> <949266236.25592.0.nnrp-06.9e9850d5@news.demon.co.uk> Subject: Re: !! ARE YOU A YOUNG, TEEN MODEL? NO SPAM !! 91877 Lines: 36 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: <8Pym4.20$_u6.234458148@news.interact.net.au> Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 22:36:40 +1100 NNTP-Posting-Host: 203.37.7.94 X-Complaints-To: abuse@interact.net.au X-Trace: news.interact.net.au 949664068 203.37.7.94 (Fri, 04 Feb 2000 22:34:28 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 22:34:28 EST Organization: InterACT Technology Group http://www.interact.net.au/ Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23022 Doesn't he know that the subject females (Queens) in this forum are at their most photogenic at about 3-5 days and I've never heard of one living as long as 14 years -- Barry Metz Brian Clark wrote in message news:949266236.25592.0.nnrp-06.9e9850d5@news.demon.co.uk... > > what the hell use is it looking here ! > > > a derrrr! > > Bob Pursley wrote in message > <20000123200139.26200.00000234@nso-ci.aol.com>... > >In article <23010013.3133@nntp.8m.com>, alt.make.money.fast@nntp.8m.com > writes: > > > >> > >>I am looking for young models (prefer early teen 14-16 year old female) > for > >>nude and semi-nude photography. This is a great way for me to update my > >>portfolio, and also a great way for you to get a free portfolio, too! This > >>could lead to employment in the Adult XXX entertainment business. What a > >>great way to make money! > >> > > > > > > Somebody sic the feds on this guy. Quickly. > > > > Article 23023 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!nntp2.giganews.com!news5.giganews.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "dm" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <389785EC.132D3CCE@banet.net> <389A216A.26670445@twcny.rr.com> Subject: Re: Cluster not moving up Lines: 10 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: <48qm4.5495$OI1.244588@news5.giganews.com> NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 19:42:24 CST Organization: Giganews.Com - Premium News Outsourcing X-Trace: sv2-Y2rmzXuR3YF5q7gTLgs0aeA0TgJCTtR5Ii9aBsMQtF6/SWpvFO80ABaNWSvHaAGifuV4WKGCBvJvJgO!lpqeCa9MY5IKhZdkH+yirhi4oRI= X-Complaints-To: abuse@GigaNews.Com X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 17:44:02 -0800 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23023 You bet your bippy!!! I just looked in mine today...here in Western Washington State. There is a lot of uncapped honey up high...those bugs will go up soon enough. When the temperature in the hives...mine are painted BLACK!....gets high enough, queens will lay. Then watch that uncapped honey DISAPPEAR! When they feed brood it is a down and dirty race to see if they have honey until Dandy-lions, in late April, here,...or if they run out and I gotta feed 'em before they starve. Top box full of Honey??? COUNT YOUR BLESSINGS! "DM" Article 23024 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!newsfeed.ozemail.com.au!news.mel.connect.com.au!news.can.connect.com.au!news.interact.net.au!not-for-mail From: "Barry Metz" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <873v1v$dn0$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Subject: Re: dead bee lava Lines: 41 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 22:18:16 +1100 NNTP-Posting-Host: 203.37.7.94 X-Complaints-To: abuse@interact.net.au X-Trace: news.interact.net.au 949662965 203.37.7.94 (Fri, 04 Feb 2000 22:16:05 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 22:16:05 EST Organization: InterACT Technology Group http://www.interact.net.au/ Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23024 I don't wish to alarm you but I'd be looking further into this have a look at your brood comb if you find that there are uncapped cells in the comb with a white plug about half way into the cell then I'd be considering chalkbrood If you want further info on chalkbrood I could possibly email a picture and some further information Also as I don't know where you live it may be a notifiable disease, but DON'T get to excited it is manageable -- Barry Metz James Kilty wrote in message news:BOU1rCAkzbm4Ew48@kilty.demon.co.uk... > In article <873v1v$dn0$1@nnrp1.deja.com>, mbarton15653@my-deja.com > writes > >Usual odd worker > >corpse around entrance but also a couple of white bee lava (I would > >estimate at about 7-10 days old) that had been chucked out of the hive. > >Is this normal or do I start panicking?! > > Could you explain your estimate of 7-10 days as a larva? > > Apart from thinking everything is normal in beekeeping I wonder if you > detect any varroa on the "larva"? If so, you may have a prize strain, > which detects and removes larvae with varroa on it. Call in a member of > your local association who has looked into this kind of thing. Otherwise > in nature nothing is 100 percent and hygienic bees are just doing their > work. I would not worry about 2. > > The other thing is that January is often the time when queens restart to > lay and if the nest gets too big and there is a cold snap, the cluster > contracts and may leave larvae to die, in order to preserve the colony > as a whole. On the next fine day, off go the undertakers. However, this > is most unusual as patches of brood are normally small and well within > the cluster. April, yes. > > For what it is worth. Any other opinions out there? > -- > James Kilty Article 23025 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.algonet.se!algonet!newsfeed.icl.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: dead bee lava Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 12:18:21 +0000 Message-ID: References: <873v1v$dn0$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 949789837 nnrp-04:12203 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 24 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23025 In article , Barry Metz writes >I don't wish to alarm you but I'd be looking further into this >have a look at your brood comb if you find that there are uncapped cells in >the comb with a white plug about half way into the cell then I'd be >considering chalkbrood >If you want further info on chalkbrood I could possibly email a picture and >some further information >Also as I don't know where you live it may be a notifiable disease, but >DON'T get to excited it is manageable Whoops. If I'm doing what I often complain about others doing, thinking what applies in their country or to their race of bees applies everywhere, sorry. Chalk brood is not a problem in the UK; it is prevalent, normally on a pretty small scale. Usually the bees handle it by disposing of the larvae/pupae when dead. So there may be little evidence except a "pepper-pot" pattern. Occasionally, when it seems excessive, we might wish to change the queen as it may be considered a hereditary issue. If I remember right, experiments with wintering using open mesh floors reduce the incidence. -- James Kilty Article 23026 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: Subject: Re: clipping Lines: 43 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: <%i3n4.3733$Ks4.97551@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 00:32:59 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.48.221 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 949797179 12.72.48.221 (Sun, 06 Feb 2000 00:32:59 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 00:32:59 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23026 I'm glad you understand the reason for clipping, because I don't. The only value I can see is that it tells you odd or even year for her age but since you are already getting her marked, clipping does nothing for you. Some feel that clipping increases the likelihood of rejection but that doesn't apply in your case (nuc). Does it have any value in swarm control? No, the swarm will abandon her in the grass to die, return to the hive and then happily depart with the first virgin to emerge. Risky for the swarm at best, fatal at worst. In theory, it sounds as good as putting a queen excluder between the bottom board and hive body, but neither are effective for swarm control As a matter of personal opinion, I find it repulsive to intentionally disfigure such a beautiful creature. I wouldn't cut off one of my dogs legs to keep her from running away. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "Jenn C" wrote in message news:s9p6toru98e171@corp.supernews.com... > Hi all > I'll try not to start any fights today :) > This spring will be my first with bees, the excitement builds. > I placed a order for my first nuc today. > here is where I could use some advice. > I'm getting my queen marked but what about clipped? > I understand the reason for clipping but am wondering what problems it might > cause? > Is clipping just a shortcut around good swarm control? > just looking for some opinions. > thanks Dave > > > Article 23027 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!206.132.58.120!gw22.nn.bcandid.com!hub12.nn.bcandid.com!tw11.nn.bcandid.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: clipping Message-ID: References: Organization: All X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.20 Lines: 29 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.100.16.35 X-Trace: tw11.nn.bcandid.com 949795677 216.100.16.35 (Sat, 05 Feb 2000 17:07:57 MST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 17:07:57 MST Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 00:07:57 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23027 If I were you, I would dump my the bees from the nuc into a top bar hive, and then you don't have to worry so much about the colony running out of room. In the commercial frames, the bee spaces are pretty small so that the bees will fill up the spaces fast and then they will want to move into the next hive body so that if you don't have a next hive body already for them for more space for them then they are likely to swarm away whereas with a top bar hive they have more room top to bottom and side to side for their combs as they enjoy their increase. In article , Davec@net1plus.com says... > Hi all > I'll try not to start any fights today :) > This spring will be my first with bees, the excitement builds. > I placed a order for my first nuc today. > here is where I could use some advice. > I'm getting my queen marked but what about clipped? > I understand the reason for clipping but am wondering what problems it might > cause? > Is clipping just a shortcut around good swarm control? > just looking for some opinions. > thanks Dave > > > > Article 23028 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!newsfeed.icl.net!news-hub.cableinet.net!newspeer.clara.net!news.clara.net!nnrp4.clara.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Paul@D&G.com Newsgroups: alt.agriculture,alt.agriculture.beef,alt.agriculture.fruit,alt.agriculture.misc,bionet.agroforestry,sci.agriculture,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,uk.business.agriculture Subject: Re: Harvesting process and stripper design Sender: paul@D&G.com Reply-To: sidings@claranet.co.uk Message-ID: <389c1481.14091368@news.clara.net> References: <87f30l$r4i$1@news.rz.uni-karlsruhe.de> <87f8qk$9u$1@soap.pipex.net> <389B2CF0.C4850BB1@visi.net> X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/32.230 Lines: 46 Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 12:30:03 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 195.8.75.1 X-Complaints-To: abuse@clara.net X-Trace: nnrp4.clara.net 949753803 195.8.75.1 (Sat, 05 Feb 2000 12:30:03 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 12:30:03 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu alt.agriculture:4187 alt.agriculture.beef:2170 alt.agriculture.fruit:9842 alt.agriculture.misc:11687 bionet.agroforestry:14938 sci.agriculture:40402 sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23028 On Fri, 04 Feb 2000 19:49:38 GMT, Thom Bradley wrote: >Quit cross posting this to alt.agriculture.beekeeping . > >We don't use tractors to harvest. > >Thom's Honeybees Think he's telling you to BUZZ OFF > >David wrote: >> >> I think the whole stripper header development in UK, involving Shelbourne >> Renolds was a fiasco. They were determined to retain the combine, and stick >> it on the front. I always thought that it should have been a simple >> machine, trailed by a tractor, like a forager, blowing the stripped >> material into a trailer. Then the drum and cleaner etc. could have been >> fitted into the grainstore / dryer building, where the guts of an old >> combine could probably have been utilised. As well as the grain, the dry >> flag leaf is also stripped, and this represents most of the feed value of >> the straw, and this can be separated. Of course barn equipment will >> depreciate a lot slower that mobile plant. I don't know who you are, or >> what your legal position with previous developers of the system is, but I >> for one will watch with interest! >> >> Best Regards David. >> >> comp.robotics.misc wrote in message >> news:87f30l$r4i$1@news.rz.uni-karlsruhe.de... >> > Hello. >> > >> > Just take a look for pages: >> > http://www.belsonet.net/harvester/index.htm >> > http://www.belarus.net/PAG/Www/Default.htm >> > >> > Contacts in "Proposal to partners" >> > Thanks. >> > >> > >> > Paul Article 23029 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!nntp.abs.net!newshub2.home.com!news.home.com!news2.rdc1.on.home.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389CDBD0.DA6D678E@home.com> From: Glen & Zoe <6archers@home.com> Organization: @Home Network Member X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en]C-AtHome0405 (Win95; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Newbie question re: moving hives. Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 8 Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 02:17:05 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.112.144.102 X-Complaints-To: abuse@home.net X-Trace: news2.rdc1.on.home.com 949803425 24.112.144.102 (Sat, 05 Feb 2000 18:17:05 PST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 18:17:05 PST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23029 I hopefully will be getting into beekeeping this spring. Right now I live in southern Ontario, but I am trying to get a job in the north near Thunder Bay (north of Minnesota USA). My question is this - If I start a hive here and later on have to move north, should I move the hive (20hr. drive) or start a new one up there? If I start a hive up there, how late can I go in the year - I want to have as strong ahive as possible because the winters up there can be brutally cold. Thanks for any help, Glen. Article 23030 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsxfer.visi.net!firenze.visi.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389CEC9B.558298E6@visi.net> From: Thom Bradley X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: clipping References: <%i3n4.3733$Ks4.97551@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 54 Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 03:39:51 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp07.ts3-1.norfolk.visi.net NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 22:39:51 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23030 There is 1 other good reason for clipping. For those unfamiliar with handling queens, clipping may be a good idea as there is the possibility of having to release the queen from her cage. Nervousness and unfamiliarity could cause unnecessary clumsiness. Having her clipped will lessen the chance of loosing her prior to getting her safely into the hive body after releasing. Thom Bradley Chesapeake, VA George Styer wrote: > > I'm glad you understand the reason for clipping, because I don't. The only > value I can see is that it tells you odd or even year for her age but since > you are already getting her marked, clipping does nothing for you. Some feel > that clipping increases the likelihood of rejection but that doesn't apply > in your case (nuc). > > Does it have any value in swarm control? No, the swarm will abandon her in > the grass to die, return to the hive and then happily depart with the first > virgin to emerge. Risky for the swarm at best, fatal at worst. > > In theory, it sounds as good as putting a queen excluder between the bottom > board and hive body, but neither are effective for swarm control > > As a matter of personal opinion, I find it repulsive to intentionally > disfigure such a beautiful creature. I wouldn't cut off one of my dogs legs > to keep her from running away. > -- > Geo > Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley > "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" > gstyLer@worldnet.att.net > To respond via email, get the "L" out of there > > "Jenn C" wrote in message > news:s9p6toru98e171@corp.supernews.com... > > Hi all > > I'll try not to start any fights today :) > > This spring will be my first with bees, the excitement builds. > > I placed a order for my first nuc today. > > here is where I could use some advice. > > I'm getting my queen marked but what about clipped? > > I understand the reason for clipping but am wondering what problems it > might > > cause? > > Is clipping just a shortcut around good swarm control? > > just looking for some opinions. > > thanks Dave > > > > > > Article 23031 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!24.30.200.2!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Cluster not moving up Lines: 10 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 06 Feb 2000 03:02:42 GMT References: <48qm4.5495$OI1.244588@news5.giganews.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000205220242.27492.00001825@ng-fl1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23031 In "The Hive and the Honey Bee" on page 623 in the section under fall/winter management it says the following: "It is also helpful to arrange the frames so that the two middlemost frames in the upper super are only partially filled with honey. This will make it easier for the winter cluster to make the transition from the bottom unit to the top unit during the winter." However, I'm with most of the rest of the people who responded to this post; cutting open cells and leaving frames partially empty in the middle is too much fancy management by far. The bees will make that transition on their own. Don't believe everything you read. Article 23032 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!nntp.abs.net!feeder.qis.net!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQdQ!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: kent stienburg Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: clipping Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 22:16:34 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 16 Message-ID: <389CE792.9AFDAACE@kingston.net> References: <%i3n4.3733$Ks4.97551@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Reply-To: beeman@kingston.net X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Sender: "kent stienburg" <@mail.kingston.net> (Unverified) X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.61 [en]C-CCK-MCD IKEzilla/2 (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23032 Hi all, I was wondering about Georges response regarding the colony reswarming after the virgin queen hatchs. Since the hive is now queenless do you think that the bees will keep the queens apart?. I agree that to clip a queens wings is only part of 1 method of swarm control. That is like only checking once for swarm cells then not again. I have tried queens with clipped wings a couple of times. but I still check for swarm cells. When I find them I destroy all but the best looking one. My reasoning was to let the colony swarm, and as George said, once they realize they have no queen they will return and wait for the queen cell to hatch. Since there is only one cell the hive is requeened and it seems to satisfy the swarm urge. I also make sure they have lots of room as the swarming seems to stem from hive congestion in my experiences. I have been happy with the results so I am going to try this in all my hives in the next 2 years. Article 23033 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Books on Bees Lines: 23 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 06 Feb 2000 03:50:24 GMT References: <877tev$bkj$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000205225024.27497.00001991@ng-fl1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23033 <> I disagree that "The Beekeeper's Handbook" is the best beginner's book for these reasons: 1) There are no pictures anywhere in the book, only drawings. Every other current beekeeping manual writer (Morse, Bonney, Dadant) has included photos. Having never worked a beehive before, I found the pictures indespensible. The step-by-step photos showing how to hive a package of bees was very important to me the first time I took on that task. 2) It's not very readable. There is a bulleted list on every page of the book. I realize a beekeeping manual isn't supposed to be Hemmingway, but I compare the experience to trying to read a book of shopping lists. It's hard to learn from shopping lists. Sometimes there are lists within lists within lists. 3) Some of the techniques recommended have been discouraged by other writers. For example, under the managing queens chapter, it describes several methods of queen introduction, and includes the options of dipping her in honey or smoking the colony and running her in the front entrance to help the hive accept her. I've read elsewhere of these practices being discouraged and having a poor rate of success. The best two beginner's book I've come across are "Beekeeping: A Practical Guide" by Richard Bonney and "First Lessons in Beekeeping" by C.P. Dadant. Article 23034 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lauramleek@aol.com (LauraMLeek) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Lines: 10 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 06 Feb 2000 04:32:02 GMT References: <87i146$f8t$1@lure.pipex.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000205233202.20978.00003223@ng-cg1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23034 I realize many people believe you need to follow someone around for a year before you start keepng bees on your own. It probably is sound advice but I have yet to see another beekeeper at work. READ everything you can get your hands on, join a club. I haven't lost a hive yet (fingers are crossed) this winter and they were flying like mad today. Pollen sacs FULL so I imagine they are even queenright. Don't get discouraged because people think you need to bee taught with hands on from someone else because it aint necessarily so. Laura Article 23035 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsswitch.lcs.mit.edu!newsxfer.visi.net!firenze.visi.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389D648B.7DD8DA59@visi.net> From: Thom Bradley X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: dead hive References: <389D4A57.EF791416@athens.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 43 Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 12:11:29 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp04.ts1-1.norfolk.visi.net NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 07:11:29 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23035 John, In this context queens only lay eggs. There's not much laying in the winter. There obviously was some laying as there was emerging brood. Look closely, which end is pointing out, the front or the back. Your first reaction may be the correct one. Sounds as if they froze in place from lack of food. How much honey is left in the hive? Check your other hive to make sure it is heavy enough with food. Thom Bradley Chesapeake, VA Sandy & John wrote: > > A friend of mine gave me a swarm last spring and they produced well. > The hive appeared to be much stronger than my other hive that I started > bee-keeping with two years ago. I left plenty of honey for them in the > supers of both hives overwinter. > > Yesterday was the first in months that the daily temp rose above 35 > degrees, so I thought I'd check on them. Lo and behold the hive that > started from the swarm was dead. I've never seen anything like this, > they looked as if they were frozen in place, and I felt bad for the > little fellas. There were alot of bees in the hive and there were a 100 > or so cells of brood with a few in the process of emerging. I can only > guess that the queen died. > > Ironically I learned only weeks ago that a swarm consists of the queen > from the old hive which I didn't realize, I assumed a swarm had the new > queen not the old one. So perhaps my hive had an aged queen in need of > requeening. If I get another swarm this spring, should I re-queen > shortly thereafter to prevent this from happening. > > My other hive is going on its third season, would it be a good idea to > requeen that one as well? > > Thanks, > > John Vona Article 23036 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: vasak@aol.com (Vasak) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Lines: 44 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 06 Feb 2000 13:40:15 GMT References: <20000205134133.23222.00003165@ng-ch1.aol.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000206084015.21957.00002026@ng-fq1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23036 Dear Sparrow, You asked for advice from the pros and got a lot of it. All of it very good advice. I stayed out because I'm not a pro - not yet, but here is some advice from a beginner. My daughter and I started trying to be beekeepers when we discovered a hive in our wall in spring of 1998. We found a local beekeeper, bought a queen, got lots of free advice, and managed to start several hives from the wall bees. But then lost them all in late summer because we (I) made almost every mistake that could be made. Then in March 1999 we bought two packages of bees with queens and started over. Both hives are very strong now. Also we were given a colony that had been living in an old fuel tank for at least 15 years. We will try to move them into a regular hive box in a few weeks. The best advice you received was what Pamela said >>...So know before you start that it's only the bees that know how to do things,...<< Your job will be to respect the bees and learn from them as you provide a place for them to do what they do. To help you do that, you already have access to the greatest source of information in the world - THE INTERNET. Here are some web addresses to get you started. If you have any questions you think we can answer please write. Sincerely, Herb http://www.dreamscape.com/frankvad/search.html http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Beekeeping/weblinks.htm#ag http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Beekeeping/beephoto.htm http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Beekeeping/beevac.htm http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee/ http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/na/bgardn.html http://www.saunalahti.fi/~apither/Firstpage/ http://www.beemaster.com/ http://www.beemaster.com/honeybee/beehome.htm http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/index.htm http://metalab.unc.edu/pub/academic/agriculture/entomology/beekeeping/faqs /bookfaq1.html http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/bees/ Article 23037 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: Allen Dick Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Books on Bees Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 16:15:01 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 39 Message-ID: <87k6m2$u02$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <877tev$bkj$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <20000205225024.27497.00001991@ng-fl1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 198.161.229.180 X-Article-Creation-Date: Sun Feb 06 16:15:01 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.01; Windows 98; QuickBooks 6.0 Canada) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x23.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 198.161.229.180 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDallendick Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23037 > I disagree that "The Beekeeper's Handbook" is the best beginner's book for these reasons:... Good. These words are from a real beekeeper. I can tell, because beekeepers seldom agree on anything and can usually be counted upon to disagree. I don't agree with the writer's choice in books, of course, BUT... I'll say right now that all the books so far mentioned are excellent and any beginner should buy five or so books and read them all, and don't forget to subscribe to Bee Culture at http://bee.airoot.com/beeculture/index.htm or the ABJ at http://www.dadant.com/abj.htm . What will be learned is that there is no 'right' or 'wrong' way to do most bee management and that beekeeping is more art than science, even for a guy like me who has 3,000 hives and 4 full time helpers. That is not to say that you can just go out without experience and do anything you like with impunity, but if you read some books, make some friends, join or organise a club, and maintain a sense of humour -- and respect for the bees -- you will have a good time, do a public service, and maybe even make a little money. No matter how smart you are, reading will confuse you until you actually have hands-on experience. If you can convince an experienced beekeeper to allow you to tag along and help out, you will learn how the book knowledge fits into the real world and get more perspective in a day that in a year of reading and planning. allen ----- See if your questions have been answered in over a decade of discussions BEE-L archives & more: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Bee-l.htm Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 23038 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Gabe" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Hive body switching and spring management? Lines: 19 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 19:00:46 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 63.17.126.32 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 949863646 63.17.126.32 (Sun, 06 Feb 2000 19:00:46 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 19:00:46 GMT Organization: AT&T Worldnet Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23038 Hello, I keep a few hives in the eastern PA area, a bit west of philadelphia. Its mid February and was wondering if anyone in the area could tell me the best time to switch the brood from the top hive body to the lower. I want to do this early but don't want to freeze them out either. Last year I did it in march and all was well. I want to try to stop them from swarming like they did last year. Also, whens the best time to put on the first super? I did that a bit late last summer (I think) which may have contributed too the swarm I had. Eventually I managed to recombine, but would like to stop them before they split. Thanks Gabe Redler Eastern PA Article 23039 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!torn!news1.bellglobal.com!news20.bellglobal.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389DD416.675D5BFD@honeyroad.com> From: workerbee@honeyroad.com Organization: My Beekeeping Homepage: http://www.honeyroad.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Newbie question re: moving hives. References: <389CDBD0.DA6D678E@home.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 25 Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 20:07:07 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.172.218.237 X-Trace: news20.bellglobal.com 949867627 206.172.218.237 (Sun, 06 Feb 2000 15:07:07 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 15:07:07 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23039 Hi there Glen and Zoe, I'm Sault Ste Marie, and can help you out a bit. First of all, when are yo planning on moveing to Thunder Bay. Some of the area around Thunder Bay is still mite free I believe, and the locals might be offended by them being introduced. There are 2 quality bee breeder that I know of in the area, who should be more that able to set you up. Let me know if you have any more questions Allen B. Glen & Zoe wrote: > I hopefully will be getting into beekeeping this spring. Right now I > live in southern Ontario, but I am trying to get a job in the north near > Thunder Bay (north of Minnesota USA). My question is this - If I start a > hive here and later on have to move north, should I move the hive (20hr. > drive) or start a new one up there? If I start a hive up there, how late > can I go in the year - I want to have as strong ahive as possible > because the winters up there can be brutally cold. Thanks for any help, > Glen. Article 23040 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Books on Bees Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 06 Feb 2000 20:54:53 GMT References: <87k6m2$u02$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000206155453.27494.00001893@ng-fl1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23040 I should add that I'm also the kind of nut who tries to read every book cover-to-cover, especially when I'm keyed up about a subject like beekeeping. The lists in "The Beekeeper's Handbook" are full of good information, so much so that I went out and bought it. The writing is just not a format that worked very well for my reading style. Maybe it will work better for me during the season when I need a quick reference. I guess my recommendation would be, "If you buy more than one beekeeping manual, buy this book." John Article 23041 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!torn!news1.bellglobal.com!news20.bellglobal.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389DD321.E445E694@honeyroad.com> From: workerbee@honeyroad.com Organization: My Beekeeping Homepage: http://www.honeyroad.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin References: <20000204230954.00857.00000390@ng-fi1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 40 Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 20:06:45 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.172.218.237 X-Trace: news20.bellglobal.com 949867605 206.172.218.237 (Sun, 06 Feb 2000 15:06:45 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 15:06:45 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23041 Hi there, I my self began beekeeping 2 years ago, so I still have a good idea of what your looking for. For myself, when I looked at the starter kits, I found that I was better off spending the extra and getting upgraded articles, such as gloves, smoker, etc. All depends how much beekeeping you want to do, if you only want to keep a few hives, then the starter would probably be alright. But if your planning on expanding to severalk more hive, you might it more beneficial to do it right the first time. Where are you located, if you an get to a local beekeeper supply store, then atleast you can save on shipping, www.dadant.com has always seemed to have the better proces overall, but you can find some things cheaper at other supply stores. Go to http://www.beemaster.com/honeybee/beemail.htm for a complete list of bee supply stores. As far as getting disease from new equipment, the chances are pretty much nil. Getting disease and pests with the bees is far more likely. Hooking up with a local beekeeper who can show you the ropes and show you what to look for is probably the best advice of all. Feel free to ask me any questions yo might have, i'm always willing to help. Allen B Drivy19 wrote: > Hi everyone :) Thanks to everyone, or anyone, who responds. I will be > beginning my beekeeping this spring for the first time. But after doing some > basic research, I know I am way out of my league. Many sellers of start up kits > seem to offer different things. Does anybody have a recommendation on a good > start up kit which including the necessary tools to collect the honey? I see > there are two basic start up kits. One with only to get the colony going, the > other to allow you to actually make and collect the honey. I want the one able > to produce and collect honey. Any good companies to recommend? Trustworthy? And > what supplies do you pros feel are absolutely necessary for a newbie? Should I > worry about disease in a brand new hive? Thank you so much for answering! I > looked back in the newsgroup and couldn't find any answers to these..Not that I > would understand anyway ;) ~~~Sparrow Article 23042 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!paloalto-snf1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!webtv.net!not-for-mail From: tenmoku@webtv.net (Hank Mishima) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Queen Rearing w/o Grafting? Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 11:51:48 -0800 (PST) Organization: WebTV Subscriber Lines: 19 Message-ID: <17654-389B2DD4-22@storefull-102.iap.bryant.webtv.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAsAhQm1rLJ6G3csnypiHUvAUGC64/3UwIUBePKgEvNu1PQdasyBBlp2NOpilM= Content-Disposition: Inline Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23042 Hi All, I posted last week on splits but I am interested to see if many experienced beekeepers let their splits raise their own queens with good results. Are there many who use this is their primary method of queen rearing? I plan to try this when there is a good flow and good weather later in the spring in a yard with 10 other hives. I have researched the Bee L, books, and web sites. It has been suggested that one can place a frame of fresh eggs 24 hours after the split into the queenless hive. 4 days later the capped cells can be removed as well as others up until the 9th day so only a few of the most viable cells are left. Extra cells can be moved or placed in protectors. Thanks for any comments or advice. To contact your elected officials see www.vote-smart.org Article 23043 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!paloalto-snf1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!webtv.net!not-for-mail From: tenmoku@webtv.net (Hank Mishima) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 01:30:10 -0800 (PST) Organization: WebTV Subscriber Lines: 19 Message-ID: <15541-389BEDA2-1@storefull-104.iap.bryant.webtv.net> References: <20000204230954.00857.00000390@ng-fi1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAsAhRcRpC+Sezf6eqQok3FPXmkF/rTAQIUBjX3/gPXB9nZaCTXHlCoanF9YW0= Content-Disposition: Inline Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23043 1. Read as much as you are willing. Further down this list are several posts about what to read. 2, Use your search engine to find "beekeeping supplies", Most all of the main national suppliers have web sites with the exception of Walter T Kelley (502-242-2012). It will save you money to research prices for all items. 3. Join your local bee club or find beekeepers in your area who may have ways of setting you up with your first hive. Where do you live? Someone here may be able to point you in the right direction. 4. Get started now. I know that the thought of tasting honey from your own beehive is a very motivating factor but it doesn't happen by accident. Especially in your first year. I have just barely scratched the surface of beekeeping. Good luck. To contact your elected officials see www.vote-smart.org Article 23044 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: grichtmeye@aol.com (GRichtmeye) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Queen Rearing w/o Grafting? Lines: 4 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 05 Feb 2000 11:43:36 GMT References: <17654-389B2DD4-22@storefull-102.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000205064336.18964.00000214@ng-cs1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23044 I sell nucs every spring all my first nucs are start this way George's Apiary Noble Ok. GRichtmeye@aol.com Article 23045 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!newspeer1.nac.net!news1.radix.net!saltmine.radix.net!not-for-mail From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Breeders in SE FL Date: 5 Feb 2000 07:39:07 -0500 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 18 Message-ID: <87h5lb$do4$1@saltmine.radix.net> References: <389B60F1.7660DE04@bellsouth.net> Reply-To: adamf@radix.net NNTP-Posting-Host: saltmine.radix.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23045 In article <389B60F1.7660DE04@bellsouth.net>, Michael Franklin wrote: > >I've called 5 breeders in FL. 3 have gone out of business and 2 haven't >returned my calls. > >I'm looking for a package or nuc of italians from a local breeder. If >anyone can recommend someone, I'd appreciate it. At this point, I'd >even order from someone not local if anyone has one they really like. Hi. Where are you? Adam -- Adam Finkelstein adamf@radix.net http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 23046 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive body switching and spring management? Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 06 Feb 2000 22:10:30 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000206171030.21049.00000474@ng-bg1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23046 Supers go on when you see the first dandylion or a little sooner. Hive bodies get reversed when the brood is all in the upper box. Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 23047 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: clipping Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 22:03:00 +0000 Message-ID: References: <%i3n4.3733$Ks4.97551@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 949879225 nnrp-13:11313 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 27 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23047 In article <%i3n4.3733$Ks4.97551@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>, George Styer writes >I'm glad you understand the reason for clipping, because I don't. I haven't yet clipped a queen and each year keep promising myself this will be the year. I do weekly inspections for queen cells and respond according to situation. I am not the only person to have lost a valuable swarm because they went *before* the first cell was capped. I have even had swarms leave when no cell had been started. All cells discovered on the inspection were emergency (and yes the bees numbers were down somewhat - I didn't accidentally kill the queen). That has happened twice, once a swarm rehoused on the old site left after filling 3 frames with brood and just enough bees to cover them! I have also lost swarms after a car accident, not being able to get out for a couple of days. The old hands who do it seem to do a 9 or 10 day inspection. I suppose you could stretch it a little. If you aim for more frequent inspections, at least it gives you a bit of leeway. Yes, of course a swarm going off with the first virgin is a greater loss and clipping is not a form of swarm control at all. And if you have sealed cells, you may still have the old queen present. It does not always try to leave. They do have some sense. I suppose the real reason is to cut down the labour of beekeeping. Commercial beekeepers count time as money. More opinions welcome please. -- James Kilty Article 23048 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!howland.erols.net!news-out.worldnet.att.net.MISMATCH!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Gabe" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <20000206171030.21049.00000474@ng-bg1.aol.com> Subject: Re: Hive body switching and spring management? Lines: 12 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 00:00:20 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 63.17.126.71 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 949881620 63.17.126.71 (Mon, 07 Feb 2000 00:00:20 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 00:00:20 GMT Organization: AT&T Worldnet Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23048 Thanks! How do I know when the brood is all in the top box without tearing apart the hive? It's been pretty cold here for a few weeks now but has been a mild winter over all. Is it safe to open the hive on a warmer day? And how warm should it be when I do open it? 40's? 50's? Gabe Article 23049 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: pete Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 03:27:19 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 38 Message-ID: <87le2k$omq$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <20000204230954.00857.00000390@ng-fi1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 152.163.201.193 X-Article-Creation-Date: Mon Feb 07 03:27:19 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; AOL 4.0; Windows 95; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x39.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 152.163.201.193 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDhrogers000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23049 > drivy19@aol.com (Drivy19) wrote: >I want to produce and collect honey. Any good companies to recommend? >What supplies do you pros feel are absolutely necessary ~~~Sparrow ********************************************************************** Howdy Sparrow -- Best of luck to you. You're starting on an exciting journey. You already have a lot of good advice. It differs somewhat, but no matter. I know of no maneuver with only only way of doing it. Visiting, observing and talking with an experienced beekeeper is an excellent approach, but not an absolute necessity. If you do not have a mentor to guide you, alternate between reading and looking in your hive. When I started with my first hive in 1934 there were no other beekeepers anywhere near me. My first reading was from a Boy Scout Merit Badge book. It gave dimensions of a hive, so I make one to correct dimensions with only hand tools and scrap wood. It worked fine. There were plenty of bee gums or box hives on the surrounding farms, but of course the owners knew nothing about beekeeping. One of them just gave me a swarm in my home-made hive. I have helped many beginners get started and guided them. I have always recommended that they use only medium supers instead of hive bodies. Now days I recommend that they start with two 3 lb. packages of Italians. Hybrids have some advantages, but should be requeened with hybrids because of their inability to supply you with dependable offspring. Pete So much to learn - So little time ! ************************************************** Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 23050 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive body switching and spring management? Lines: 25 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 07 Feb 2000 03:58:26 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000206225826.27502.00002092@ng-fl1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23050 Gabe wrote: << How do I know when the brood is all in the top box without tearing apart the hive? >> Some beekeeps recommend splitting the brood nest when reversing as a sort of modified Demaree method; that is, it removes some brood from the brood area and places it very high in the hive. This is done while most of the brood is in the top super but some is still being raised in the bottom super of a 2-super hive. Roger Morse writes: Reversing also, temporarily at least, splits the existing brood nest. These two measures (that result from reversing), making room available above and splitting the existing brood nest, relieve the immediate congestion and deter the construction of queen cups and, later, queen cells. (From "The New Complete Guide to Beekeeping" Pg. 69.) On the other hand, Richard Bonney writes: Brood nest integrity is vital. At any time the size of the brood nest is a function of the size of the adult population. The colony will raise no more brood at any given time than they can feed and keep warm. The normal brood nest is sperical. This is the shape that gives the least surface area for the mass involved and is therefore the most efficient shape possible to keep warm. Breaking up the brood nest as can happen with indiscriminate reversing will probably destroy this efficiency. Coupled with cold weather, there is an excellent chance of losing brood. (From "Hive Management" Pg. 11-12). Just make sure if you do split the brood nest that it's not too cold. Article 23051 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!newspeer1.nac.net!yellow.newsread.com!netaxs.com!newsread.com!POSTED.monger.newsread.com!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389E2E8B.7F17DF49@athens.net> From: Sandy & John X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en] (Win95; I) MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: dead hive References: <389D4A57.EF791416@athens.net> <389D648B.7DD8DA59@visi.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 61 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 02:44:51 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 130.205.86.72 X-Complaints-To: Abuse Role , We Care X-Trace: monger.newsread.com 949891491 130.205.86.72 (Sun, 06 Feb 2000 21:44:51 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 21:44:51 EST Organization: Comstar Communications (comstar.net) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23051 Thom, There was a full super of honey for them to feed upon. It's been cold in Georgia but this isn't like Vermont weather. There was capped brood in the hive body in various stages of development, but it's been in the 20's and 30's for the last month, so it's inconceivable that the queen was laying. This leads me to believe that this hive has been dead for a while. There were a ton of bees on the floor of the hive but there were alot of dead workers with their heads burrowed into empty cells, which looks rather odd. I have one other hive also with a full super of honey and they are doing just fine. Is it true that if a queen dies the hive will die shortly thereafter? Is it possible that my queen died sometime ago? John Vona Athens, GA Thom Bradley wrote: > John, > In this context queens only lay eggs. There's not much laying in the > winter. There obviously was some laying as there was emerging brood. > Look closely, which end is pointing out, the front or the back. Your > first reaction may be the correct one. Sounds as if they froze in place > from lack of food. How much honey is left in the hive? Check your other > hive to make sure it is heavy enough with food. > > Thom Bradley > Chesapeake, VA > > Sandy & John wrote: > > > > A friend of mine gave me a swarm last spring and they produced well. > > The hive appeared to be much stronger than my other hive that I started > > bee-keeping with two years ago. I left plenty of honey for them in the > > supers of both hives overwinter. > > > > Yesterday was the first in months that the daily temp rose above 35 > > degrees, so I thought I'd check on them. Lo and behold the hive that > > started from the swarm was dead. I've never seen anything like this, > > they looked as if they were frozen in place, and I felt bad for the > > little fellas. There were alot of bees in the hive and there were a 100 > > or so cells of brood with a few in the process of emerging. I can only > > guess that the queen died. > > > > Ironically I learned only weeks ago that a swarm consists of the queen > > from the old hive which I didn't realize, I assumed a swarm had the new > > queen not the old one. So perhaps my hive had an aged queen in need of > > requeening. If I get another swarm this spring, should I re-queen > > shortly thereafter to prevent this from happening. > > > > My other hive is going on its third season, would it be a good idea to > > requeen that one as well? > > > > Thanks, > > > > John Vona Article 23052 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.cs.com!not-for-mail From: texasdrone@cs.combees (Robert Williamson) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: dead hive Lines: 14 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.cs.com X-Admin: news@cs.com Date: 07 Feb 2000 04:56:17 GMT References: <389E2E8B.7F17DF49@athens.net> Organization: CompuServe (http://www.compuserve.com/) Message-ID: <20000206235617.27280.00001617@ng-ft1.news.cs.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23052 >but there were alot of dead workers with their heads >burrowed into empty cells, which looks rather odd. This sounds like a classic case of starvation. Just because you have a full super of honey on a hive doesn't mean they were able to get to it. At temperatures like your describing the bees wouldn't have been able to break their cluster in order to find the food. Think back and see if you can remember how much honey was immediately around the dead bees. Robert Williamson Southeast Texas Honey Co. P.O. Box 176 Vidor, Tx. 77670 " A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any prince" Article 23053 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!europa.netcrusader.net!209.150.97.11!feeder.qis.net!yellow.newsread.com!netaxs.com!newsread.com!POSTED.monger.newsread.com!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389D4A57.EF791416@athens.net> From: Sandy & John X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en] (Win95; I) MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: dead hive Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 26 Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 11:30:40 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 207.42.201.46 X-Complaints-To: Abuse Role , We Care X-Trace: monger.newsread.com 949836640 207.42.201.46 (Sun, 06 Feb 2000 06:30:40 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 06:30:40 EST Organization: Comstar Communications (comstar.net) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23053 A friend of mine gave me a swarm last spring and they produced well. The hive appeared to be much stronger than my other hive that I started bee-keeping with two years ago. I left plenty of honey for them in the supers of both hives overwinter. Yesterday was the first in months that the daily temp rose above 35 degrees, so I thought I'd check on them. Lo and behold the hive that started from the swarm was dead. I've never seen anything like this, they looked as if they were frozen in place, and I felt bad for the little fellas. There were alot of bees in the hive and there were a 100 or so cells of brood with a few in the process of emerging. I can only guess that the queen died. Ironically I learned only weeks ago that a swarm consists of the queen from the old hive which I didn't realize, I assumed a swarm had the new queen not the old one. So perhaps my hive had an aged queen in need of requeening. If I get another swarm this spring, should I re-queen shortly thereafter to prevent this from happening. My other hive is going on its third season, would it be a good idea to requeen that one as well? Thanks, John Vona Article 23054 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Message-ID: <389F1999.D4271ED@cybertours.com> Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:14:33 -0500 From: Midnite Bee Reply-To: midnitebee@cybertours.com Organization: Holly-B Apiary X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: EAS 2000/George's Feb issue Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------5A5709FD6F169E24648E3C27" NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.222.80.140 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.222.80.140 X-Trace: 7 Feb 2000 14:06:27 -0500, 209.222.80.140 Lines: 48 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.98.63.6 Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.icl.net!netnews.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.cybertours.com!209.222.80.140 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23054 --------------5A5709FD6F169E24648E3C27 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings! The Bee Articles pages have been updated. "George Imirie's Feb. issue and EAS 2000 information". http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee Herb/Norma Holly-B Apiary PO Box 26 Wells,Maine 04090-0026 Midnite Bee http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee Stony Critters http://pages.ivillage.com/wh/stonycritters/ Old & Rare Beekeeping Books http://www.cybertours.com/%7Emidnitebee/html/books.html --------------5A5709FD6F169E24648E3C27 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings!
The Bee Articles pages have been updated.
"George Imirie's Feb. issue and EAS 2000 information".
http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee
 

Herb/Norma
Holly-B Apiary
PO Box 26
Wells,Maine 04090-0026
Midnite Bee
http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee
Stony Critters
http://pages.ivillage.com/wh/stonycritters/
Old & Rare Beekeeping Books
http://www.cybertours.com/%7Emidnitebee/html/books.html
  --------------5A5709FD6F169E24648E3C27-- Article 23055 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-feed.fnsi.net!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.icl.net!newspeer.clara.net!news.clara.net!nnrp3.clara.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Nick Templar" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Tuesday 15 February 8.00 p.m. at Elmfield School, Love Lane Oldswinford UK Lines: 28 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: <4mFn4.190$s02.6492@nnrp3.clara.net> Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 19:50:24 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 195.8.84.57 X-Complaints-To: abuse@clara.net X-Trace: nnrp3.clara.net 949953024 195.8.84.57 (Mon, 07 Feb 2000 19:50:24 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 19:50:24 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23055 Hi folks On Tuesday 15 February at 8.00 p.m. at Elmfield School, Love Lane Oldswinford UK I will be giving a talk to the Hagley and Stourbridge Beekeepers Association on BEEKEEPING & COMPUTERS - and I need your help. Please attach to this message: The address of your favourite beekeeping Web site. Where can I find the best beekeeping photo's on the net? Have you come across any particularly interesting bee related sites? What beekeeping activity do you use your PC for? Where else on the internet is there useful beekeeping information? What question should I have asked you here that will enable you to dazzle my audience? Ok folks this isn't a competition but the more replies the merrier! Thanks, see you next week ... Nick Article 23056 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!baron.netcom.net.uk!netcom.net.uk!diablo.theplanet.net!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: drivy19@aol.com (Drivy19) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Lines: 7 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 08 Feb 2000 00:35:03 GMT References: <87le2k$omq$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000207193503.09931.00000001@ng-cg1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23056 Thank you so much Pete! You have given me more information. Much needed information! I think I have found a mentor who just moved into the area. He is currently in California allowing his bees to pollinate orchirds out there, but will soon be back. His wife said he is a 3rd generation beekeeper and would be happy to help me..:) I am very excited. I plan on sticking around here though and know that many, like you, will be of great assistance to me..Thank you again Pete! Happy Beekeeping! Sparrow Article 23057 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!24.30.200.2!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: drivy19@aol.com (Drivy19) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Lines: 7 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 08 Feb 2000 00:43:50 GMT References: <20000205233202.20978.00003223@ng-cg1.aol.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000207194350.09931.00000005@ng-cg1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23057 Thank you Laura! You must be in a winter wonderland!? We have five foot drifts out here and it is hard to imagine any green under that white. I know April is supposed to be the time out here to get going with the bees..and hopefully with this new mentor, I will be okay. I do know I need to let the bees work their magic, but would feel horrible if they got sick, died, or failed because of me. I hope my poor bees don't suffer because of me..Good luck to you and it sure sounds like you have the right touch with your little buzzers...:) Sparrow Article 23058 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.axxsys.net!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bobpursley@aol.com (Bob Pursley) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Newbie question re: moving hives. Lines: 18 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 06 Feb 2000 14:06:14 GMT References: <389CDBD0.DA6D678E@home.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com X-Newsreader: Session Scheduler Message-ID: <20000206090614.19678.00000655@nso-fe.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23058 In article <389CDBD0.DA6D678E@home.com>, Glen & Zoe <6archers@home.com> writes: > >I hopefully will be getting into beekeeping this spring. Right now I >live in southern Ontario, but I am trying to get a job in the north near >Thunder Bay (north of Minnesota USA). My question is this - If I start a >hive here and later on have to move north, should I move the hive (20hr. >drive) or start a new one up there? If I start a hive up there, how late >can I go in the year - I want to have as strong ahive as possible >because the winters up there can be brutally cold. Thanks for any help, >Glen. > > And the pilgrims moved them across the North Atlantic on very small bobbing ships, without hive cleats, straps, nor nets. bob Article 23059 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: FW: Research Funding Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 08:47:46 -0700 Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy Lines: 83 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: postnews.dejanews.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To: "sci.ag.bee" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) Importance: Normal X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 X-DejaID: _xiz/AIPid6x1J8dpOcUJSI/DdPbSJ+1n?= Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23059 From: Allen Dick [mailto:allend@internode.net] Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2000 8:44 AM To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Subject: RE: Research Funding > ....entirely too much emphasis is placed on the practical value of research. > ...I only bring this up because it seems to be central to his and Dr. Rosin's > argument against the idea that bees communicate through dancing... Well, I personally don't get that understanding from what they are saying, or think they are implying any disrespect for pure science or pure research. Au contraire. I see them as simply observing that any pure discovery of any importance usually finds at least some minor applications and spawns more discoveries. This observation actually reinforces the importance of pure science. Their only stipulation is that pure science must also be good science, and this is where the differences of opinion start in reference to bee language. Adrian's criticism -- if I understand correctly -- is simply that, if the dance phenomenon exists and is correctly understood, and if the theory is sound, then -- given the immense significance it should have practically, philosophically, and politically -- much more should have been expected to have come of its discovery by now. This is not necessarily always the case, I do understand, but it is hard to think of pure discoveries that do not lead to something else over a few decades. The lack of offspring in this instance does tend to look a little suspicious. It seems that the bee language theory remains essentially barren. Such an apparently pivotal discovery -- if valid -- should well have been expected to bear a lot of fruit over almost a half century since its discovery, both in useful applications and in further discoveries in related and unrelated fields. Instead it seems to have some fundamental problems, and to be at a dead end. The obvious lack of further discoveries and useful applications arising from such a fundamental and amazing phenomenon tends to bring into question whether we actually are interpreting the phenomenon correctly and whether we are able to test and replicate it with the reliability -- either theoretically or in the lab -- that we can even with sub-atomic events and distant phenomena off-planet. Unfortunately the dance language theory is 'cute'. It has a lot of intrinsic appeal to humans. This appeal is entirely independent of the theory's ability to be proven conclusively or put to use, and attracts people to the theory in much the same way as a religion does. This alone should, and does, concern some scientists. Scientists, to be worthy of that name, must be ready to cheerfully change their cherished beliefs in the face of new evidence and suspend judgement where there is lack of sufficient evidence or reason for doubt no matter how attractive the theory. In science, Doubt is a virtue, and Faith is a vice. Adrian and his cohorts -- right or wrong -- do us all a service, often at a personal cost, by demanding and testing proof. As for pure science and funding, I share your concerns, but IMO that is an entirely separate matter. For anyone who thinks about these things, I recommend Mark Winston's book, "From Where I Sit", for some good perspectives on the question of the mutual responsibilities between researchers and the society in which they live, and many other current topics of interest to many of us who like bees. Oh, and BTW, Mark and his scientist friends at CAPA -- along with a hundred or more Canadian volunteers -- just raised over $400,000 CAD for bee research using their own entrepreneurial efforts putting on the best Apimondia Congress ever. Beekeepers worldwide will benefit. This money, when combined with funds generously donated by Canadian beekeepers will bring the CBRF about halfway to its $1,000,000 goal. The money will be leveraged with government and private foundation money to do a lot of research, both pure and applied. Some pictures of the presentation of the checks to the Canadian Bee Research Fund and other hyjinks at the joint SBA/CHC/CAPA meeting in Saskatoon this week are accessible from http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/ by visiting the 'What's New' link (first item). Sorry, no captions yet, but lots of snapshots. allen ---- See if your questions have been answered in over a decade of discussions. BEE-L archives & more: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Bee-l.htm Search sci.agriculture.beekeeping at http://www.deja.com/ or visit http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee to access both on the same page. Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 23060 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!24.30.200.2!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <%i3n4.3733$Ks4.97551@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <389CEC9B.558298E6@visi.net> Subject: Re: clipping Lines: 32 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 05:24:30 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.50.192 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 949814670 12.72.50.192 (Sun, 06 Feb 2000 05:24:30 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 05:24:30 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23060 This is a valid point, but not in the context of the original post as a nuc would not have a caged queen. As I was writing my first response, I thought that perhaps it might be helpful to clip a $500 breeder but I have a hard enough time keeping my posts brief as it is and don't know much about birthin' no queen bees. As far as loosing a queen, I think it was Andy N. that just popped them in his mouth when his hands were full. Maybe a legend but I guess you would never loose one unless you swallowed. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "Thom Bradley" wrote in message news:389CEC9B.558298E6@visi.net... > There is 1 other good reason for clipping. > > For those unfamiliar with handling queens, clipping may be a good idea > as there is the possibility of having to release the queen from her > cage. Nervousness and unfamiliarity could cause unnecessary clumsiness. > Having her clipped will lessen the chance of loosing her prior to > getting her safely into the hive body after releasing. > > Thom Bradley > Chesapeake, VA > Article 23061 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: drivy19@aol.com (Drivy19) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Lines: 14 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 08 Feb 2000 00:40:48 GMT References: <20000206084015.21957.00002026@ng-fq1.aol.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000207194048.09931.00000003@ng-cg1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23061 >The best advice you received was what Pamela said >>...So know >before you start that it's only the bees that know how to do things,...<< I have always admired Mother Nature and know I am NO match for her wisdom. As a Master Gardener, I know to watch the miracles unfold and leave them be!!! LOL My muddling will only make more work for everyone (and everything).. I have proven this many times over.. And thank you so much Herb for all your links and taking the time to write! I have already read one FAQ, one book, and poured over these messages. I am getting better because of nice people like you who take the time to help another. Thank you again Herb! May your kindness be returned soon.. Sparrow Article 23062 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!nntp.primenet.com!nntp.gctr.net!newsxfer.visi.net!firenze.visi.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389F9EDF.100384D7@visi.net> From: Thom Bradley X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: clipping References: <%i3n4.3733$Ks4.97551@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <389CEC9B.558298E6@visi.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 11 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 04:44:55 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp18.ts2-1.norfolk.visi.net NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 23:44:55 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23062 No. And normally the clipping is only done on 1 wing. Not necessary to do both. : ) Thom Peter Amschel wrote: > > Do the wings grow back in, as with human fingernails and hair? > > In article <389CEC9B.558298E6@visi.net>, > Thombradnospamination@visi.net says... > > Having her clipped will lessen the chance of loosing her prior to > > getting her safely into the hive body after releasing. > > > > Article 23063 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!news-was.dfn.de!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: RE: Feeding bees at dawn Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 07:11:30 -0700 Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy Lines: 62 Message-ID: References: <200002081214.HAA18514@listserv.albany.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: postnews.dejanews.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To: "Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology" , "sci.ag.bee" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 In-Reply-To: <200002081214.HAA18514@listserv.albany.edu> Importance: Normal X-DejaID: _xiz/AIPid6wTxF+kfZGwaxDc4nbEV1Dh?= Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23063 > Isn't it a pity that hindsight is never around when you need it!! That's why we have the BEE-L logs. sci.agriculture.beekeeping also has searchable logs. Feeding and robbing has been discussed many times over the years on each of these resources, and just about every method and timing imaginable has been strongly advocated by some and equally strongly condemned by others. The responses vary form uninformed nonsense to well thought out technical explanations of the advantages and the pitfalls. The wide range of opinions and experiences detailed there are available 24 hours a day and seven days a week for anyone to access by a reasonably simple search. In contrast, asking a question 'live' on the list is risky if you need a quick answer. Such a request will bring some answers, but oftentimes, those who have written on the topic before will not reply, especially if they have previously gone to lengths to ensure a comprehensive and balanced explanation is made. Our Mennonite neighbours have an expression that goes somewhat thus: "Strangers rush in to help, but neighbours take time to dress". Those who think a topic is simple will rattle off a quick and simple reply, while those who are aware that there are too many parameters involved for simple statements to be truthful have to decide whether to prepare their thoughts and to spend an hour or two writing a response that does the topic justice. > I fed the bees just after dawn. Just after I had fed them the first e mail > arrived warning me not to do it. There was no problem from the bees for the > first three hours or so and then mayhem broke out. Bees flying in large > numbers, every hive being buzzed by robbers yours truly stung incessantly. Too bad. Our logs contain a simple and effective method for stopping robbing dead in its tracks. > To those who said do not feed at dawn, thank you kindly. To those who said > feed at dawn, take the advice of someone who now knows, and do not do it. We commercial beekeepers feed our bees anytime, including dawn -- if we are up that early, or still up that late. We don't know what you fed, or how you fed it, but -- trust me -- the time of day was likely not the largest factor in your debacle. There is far more to feeding bees than the time of day -- or any other one simple factor. Feeding bees is a complex and technical problem that won't be adequately covered in a few paragraphs, or even a few pages. The method selected, the weather, the presence or absence of flowers in the neighbourhood, the type of bees, the absolute and relative strengths of the hives, the hive design, the entrance size, the feed chosen and its odor, recent history, the amount of feed already in the hives, the geographical location and time of year, and many, many more factors will influence the outcome. An experienced beekeeper will size up the situation without even being aware of it and be able to see if feeding wise or if it is folly, and the best method and timing to use. It is a much tougher decision for the inexperienced. allen ----- See if your questions have been answered in over a decade of discussions. BEE-L archives & more: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Bee-l.htm Search sci.agriculture.beekeeping at http://www.deja.com/ or visit http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee to access both on the same page. Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 23064 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed1.earthlink.net!newsfeed2.earthlink.net!newsfeed.earthlink.net!nntp.earthlink.net!newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A079CD.39702592@sprintmail.com> From: Jon Iverson Organization: from Little Norway, poulsbo, Washington X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Looking for work References: <873f3h$tah$1@nebula.dnttm.ro> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 20 NNTP-Posting-Host: 168.191.237.94 X-Complaints-To: abuse@earthlink.net X-Trace: newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net 950041073 168.191.237.94 (Tue, 08 Feb 2000 12:17:53 PST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 12:17:53 PST X-ELN-Date: Tue Feb 8 12:17:53 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 20:17:53 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23064 Take a look at: http://www.beekeeping.com/cgi-local/view.cgi?action=view&Department=Jobs Jabba wrote: > Hi, > if you need help in managing your bee-related enterprise/hobby, and if > you're interested in a 50 years old,Romanian,hard-working, retired man, with > 40 years experience in beekeeping, once delivering 1 tone of honey per > ear( and now disilusionated because of the fall of the prices of Romanian > honey market ), or if you're simply interested in getting some quality > honey, contact me at mailto:mircea@level7.datagroup.ro > I am looking for a way to round up my incomes - just send an offer and > we can discuss it. > Europe solicitors preffered - but not necesarry. > > Regards, > Cornel. Article 23065 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!paloalto-snf1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!webtv.net!not-for-mail From: tenmoku@webtv.net (Hank Mishima) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need some advice from the pros on how to begin Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 19:09:46 -0800 (PST) Organization: WebTV Subscriber Lines: 7 Message-ID: <23343-389E377A-26@storefull-101.private.bryant.webtv.net> References: <20000205133728.23222.00003163@ng-ch1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAsAhQr2ZBsAXhztTzSrbuRP4pZu0AF8gIUA3WtEHa1dxPkteKTYw9wGzm+XNw= Content-Disposition: Inline Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23065 A good supplier in your area is Western Bee supplies: http://www.ptinet.net/~stinger. They are in Polson, MT. There prices are very good and you may even be willing to drive there. They probably know of beekeepers near you who could get you started. To contact your elected officials see www.vote-smart.org Article 23066 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!outfeed1.news.cais.net!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What do you think Honeybs Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 22:59:55 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 26 Message-ID: <87q6c6$1sl$1@news1.Radix.Net> References: <389BE229.FB487EC0@crosslink.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: p8.a2.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23066 "L.E.G." wrote: >Hello Greg, >I addressed this to you 'cause you keep talking about Maveric for >control of varroa,but what does your info tell you of the Checkmite >strips.Expensive , I know but what are some of the other pro's and >con's.I used them last fall "after " the apistan and still got a 25 >count on stickyboard. Obviously it killed mites that Apistan couldn't. One would have to think that the second kill was somewhat resistant to fluvalinate. Using two miticides (at different times) just makes good sense. It is the only way we can prevent resistance. Greg the beekeep // Bee Just & Just Bee! =8{ })))- Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA \\ www.radix.net\~honeybs Article 23067 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed1.earthlink.net!nntp.earthlink.net!newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Kellen" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Submit your beekeeping site to GrowSearch - farm and garden Lines: 17 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.179.121.91 X-Complaints-To: abuse@earthlink.net X-Trace: newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net 950044270 209.179.121.91 (Tue, 08 Feb 2000 13:11:10 PST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 13:11:10 PST Organization: EarthLink Network, Inc. X-ELN-Date: Tue Feb 8 13:11:10 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 21:11:10 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23067 Hello, I am inviting you to submit your ag-related website to GrowSearch, a new search engine for farm and garden. It only takes a second and could lead to some increased traffic to your site. GrowSearch had over 15,000 visitors last month and it was the first month it was online! Click here to submit your site: http://growsearch.hypermart.net/search.pl?action=addurl or check out the auctual search engine at: http://growsearch.hypermart.net Thanks and Best of Luck! -Kellen Weissenbach GrowSearch Admin Article 23068 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newspeer1.nac.net!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: clipping Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 23:07:21 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 32 Message-ID: <87q6q5$1sl$2@news1.Radix.Net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: p8.a2.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23068 "Jenn C" wrote: >Hi all >I'll try not to start any fights today :) >This spring will be my first with bees, the excitement builds. >I placed a order for my first nuc today. >here is where I could use some advice. >I'm getting my queen marked but what about clipped? >I understand the reason for clipping but am wondering what problems it might >cause? >Is clipping just a shortcut around good swarm control? >just looking for some opinions. >thanks Dave You wouldn't cut the tail off of a prime stud bull, so why would you maim your queen? Bees can sense when the queen is not perfect. Greg the beekeep // Bee Just & Just Bee! =8{ })))- Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA \\ www.radix.net\~honeybs Article 23069 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.atl!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp.frontiernet.net!nntp.gctr.net!news.frontiernet.net!not-for-mail From: "busybee" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: She will be a Honey of a Queen! Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 05:56:14 -0600 Organization: Frontier GlobalCenter Inc. Lines: 8 Message-ID: <87mbr7$31a0$1@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 209-130-165-37.nas1.lec.gblx.net X-Trace: node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net 949924519 99648 209.130.165.37 (7 Feb 2000 11:55:19 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@frontiernet.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 7 Feb 2000 11:55:19 GMT X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23069 At the recent ABF National meeting in Texas this past January, Minnesota's Angie Olson was crowned American Honey Queen! She will be a superb spokesperson for our industry! Way to go Angie! Congratulations and Best Wishes to you! --Busybee (Swenson Apiaries) Article 23070 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Helpful device Lines: 4 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 07 Feb 2000 12:04:42 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000207070442.25669.00002167@ng-cf1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23070 Here's a helpful device if your bee yards are kind of far out, or if you're the kind who just can't wait. http://www.bumperdumper.com/bumper2.htm Article 23071 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!feeder.qis.net!yellow.newsread.com!netaxs.com!newsread.com!POSTED.monger.newsread.com!not-for-mail Message-ID: <389EE990.DD6C26F7@BEEMASTER.COM> From: John Clayton X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: My FREE on-line Beekeeping Course Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 18 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 15:46:44 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 151.198.241.123 X-Complaints-To: Abuse Role , We Care X-Trace: monger.newsread.com 949938404 151.198.241.123 (Mon, 07 Feb 2000 10:46:44 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 10:46:44 EST Organization: CSI Online Services (csionline.net) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23071 Please Visit my site if you are new to beekeeping or just need information for school projects. My Novice Beekeeping Course is 22 pages, 120 photos and lots of information to use as reference. Awesome close-up photography of my bees, larva, etc.. The beekeeping course address is http://www.beemaster.com/honeybee/beehome.htm But feel free to visit my COMPLETE site with over 120 pages, 550 photos and 35 educational topics for the whole family at http://www.beemaster.com Please let me know you found me here in NEWS GROUPS and let me know if you found my site helpful. John the Beemaster Article 23072 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: dead hive Lines: 21 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 07 Feb 2000 17:23:37 GMT References: <389E2E8B.7F17DF49@athens.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000207122337.27004.00001938@ng-cj1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23072 >Thom, >There was a full super of honey for them to feed upon. It's been cold in >Georgia >but this isn't like Vermont weather. There was capped brood in the hive body >in >v Ya know i get the feeling that an old nemeisis has wipped you out !! Trachea mites will wipe out a hive like this in dead winter. Had one just like it this year myself no obvious reason for death other than they was dead. Trachea mites will do a very quick kill like this sometimes. Now a days folks would say that you're better off without that hive anyway. Since the newness has worn off ( beekeeper 6 years) I have found this to be somewhat true. But for someone new with only a couple of hives it can sure seem like a total castrophe ! Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC Article 23073 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsswitch.lcs.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!news-out.nntp.airnews.net.MISMATCH!cabal10.airnews.net!news.airnews.net!cabal1.airnews.net!news-f.iadfw.net!usenet From: Steve & Meneese Wall Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: New to beekeeping Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 21:42:38 +0000 Organization: Fastlane Communications (using Airnews.net!) Lines: 39 Message-ID: X-Orig-Message-ID: <38A08DCC.7B7C8145@fastlane.net> References: <38A03B72.D711168E@epix.net> Reply-To: thewalls@fastlane.net Abuse-Reports-To: abuse at fastlane.net to report improper postings NNTP-Proxy-Relay: 204.181.96.50 NNTP-Posting-Time: Tue Feb 8 21:41:47 2000 NNTP-Posting-Host: !_4^j3I`0]b(A_^ (Encoded at Airnews!) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23073 Jamie- First of all, your bees are probably just fine. New beekeepers tend to worry too much. What you might want to do is wait 'till the temp. gets to about 50╟F, open the top of the hive and look down between the frames. No need to pull any frames. Look at the combs toward the top of the frames that the bees are on. If they are capped, then the bees will find them. If they are uncapped, the bees have eaten the honey in them and need to be fed. Sugar syrup is not very helpful this time of year, especially in colder climates. The best way to feed is with frames of capped honey. Bob Horr describes how to do this in the latest issue of American Bee Journal (February 2000 page 123). Often you can just rearrange the frames to get capped honey nearer the cluster. If they've eaten all their stores, Try feeding bee candy. There is a recipe listed in in Jerry Hayes' column "The Classroom", in the same issue of ABJ. Like someone else told you, dead bees in front of the hive is normal. In fact, it can be good news. Healthy, populous hives clean out the dead and dump them in front of the hive. Starved bees in a weak hive just stay where they are, in the hive. Hope this helps. -Steve Wall Jamie wrote: > This is my first winter with bee's. I try to look at the hive every week > to make sure everything looks ok with it. I listen through the side with > a stethoscope and i know where the cluster it..... but yesterday when I > was checking on it, I saw dead bee's in the snow !! I would see bee's > fly out and drop and never get back up...and I can hear bee's near the > top of the hive buzzing?? should I look in it for food stores? its been > cold here in the low 30's that day. > I hope some one can help > Thanks > Jamie Article 23074 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!logbridge.uoregon.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: FW: Varroa Test Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 07:55:19 -0700 Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy Lines: 25 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: postnews.dejanews.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To: "BEE-L" , "sci.ag.bee" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Importance: Normal X-DejaID: _xiz/AIPid6zAW/GCgzRwE5RS0lFGGLXm?= Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23074 Forwarded From: beekeeping@onelist.com Author: docbull Subject: NEW VARROA MITE FIELD TEST An easier, safer "for the bees" method for determining level of Mite infestation in your bees. Like so many other procedures and methods, you wonder why you didn't think of it yourself. Place a tablespoonful of confectionary sugar in a pint jar along with approximately 200 honeybees, close and shake vigorously, leave for several minutes, afterwards empty container onto a white paper. The bees will fly away and the mites will be left behind for easy indexing. A technique that should be used anytime you suspect an infestation exists. This procedures appeals to me, I never liked the idea of killing honeybees. ------- Don't know how well this works, but thought it worth passing on. allen Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 23075 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!chnws03.mediaone.net!24.128.1.101!chnws05.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.44.7!wbnws01.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!schapin From: schapin@mindspring.com (Steve Chapin) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Winter Hive Kill Message-ID: Organization: Chapin Consulting X-Newsreader: MT-NewsWatcher 2.4.4 Lines: 38 Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 19:43:06 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.218.82.151 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: wbnws01.ne.mediaone.net 950125386 24.218.82.151 (Wed, 09 Feb 2000 14:43:06 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 14:43:06 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23075 I opened up my hive today and found that it was dead. Here is the history of the hive: Hive was created from a package of Buckfast bees last April. It is located in Northeastern MA. Initially the hive was fed with syrup and fumadil. All summer and early fall, the hive was extremely strong. It produced 4 supers of honey (about 125 lbs.) After I removed the supers, the remaining two hive bodies weighed about 140 lbs. In the fall, after the honey was off, I used Apistan for about 45 days. At the same time, I added a Terramycin patty. The last time I saw bee activity was in beginning of Nov, when I removed the Apistan strips. I opened the hive today as it is warm (40 degrees) and found a clump of dead bees on the top of the second hive body. I expected to find the bees in a clump, but they seemed to be scattered over the hive. One frame had many bees with their heads down in the comb, looking like they were eating honey. There was still a lot of honey in that hive body, as it weighed about 40-50 lbs. I pulled 5 frames and found much the same; lots of honey and some bees head down in the comb. The lower hive body had less honey as it was mostly empty brood cells. When I removed the top hive body, I found more dead bees on the top of the frames. There was also a fine light colored powder. I looked much like fine sawdust. It was the heaviest on the center frames. The winter here was cold, with many days below zero, with a wind. The hive consisted of two hive bodies, an inner cover (inverted so the side cutout acted as a vent), then a empty super with fiberglass insulation and finally the top cover. There is an entrance reducer, 3/4 inch opening exposed and facing upward. I never used a queen excluder on the hive. The bees and comb appeared to be intact, no evidence of predation. So, my question is, What happened?? Cheers Steve Chapin Article 23076 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!outfeed1.news.cais.net!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: FW: Varroa Test Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 21:05:35 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 39 Message-ID: <87sk20$lp$2@news1.Radix.Net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: p8.a2.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23076 "Allen Dick" wrote: >Forwarded From: beekeeping@onelist.com >Author: docbull >Subject: NEW VARROA MITE FIELD TEST >An easier, safer "for the bees" method for determining level of Mite >infestation in your bees. Like so many other procedures and methods, you >wonder why you didn't think of it yourself. >Place a tablespoonful of confectionary sugar in a pint jar along with >approximately 200 honeybees, close and shake vigorously, leave for >several minutes, afterwards empty container onto a white paper. The bees >will fly away and the mites will be left behind for easy indexing. A >technique that should be used anytime you suspect an infestation exists. >This procedures appeals to me, I never liked the idea of killing >honeybees. >------- >Don't know how well this works, but thought it worth passing on. >allen Even easier, put the bees in a jar with a screen top. Heat the jar to 40+ degrees centigrade. Turn the jar over a white sheet of paper and tap it a couple of times. Count the mites! Varroa mites die at 40 degrees! Greg the beekeep // Bee Just & Just Bee! =8{ })))- Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA \\ www.radix.net\~honeybs Article 23077 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!howland.erols.net!europa.netcrusader.net!206.132.58.120!gw22.nn.bcandid.com!hub12.nn.bcandid.com!tw11.nn.bcandid.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bee Keeping in your garden Message-ID: References: <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net> Organization: All X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.20 Lines: 31 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.100.16.37 X-Trace: tw11.nn.bcandid.com 950130639 216.100.16.37 (Wed, 09 Feb 2000 14:10:39 MST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 14:10:39 MST Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 21:10:39 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23077 Yes, no problem. Use a top bar hive, provide water for them and provide screens so they will have to fly up about 8' to start foraging. This keeps them out of your neighbors' direct flight path and keeps them out of your neighbors' water sources. Give comb to your neighbors. In article <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net>, dianewaller@beeb.net says... > Hello, > > Can I ask for the readers views on keeping bees in your garden, one possibly > two hives. Needless to say there seem to be two schools of thought here, one > saying "Yes, no problem." and the other saying "No." > > Here in England we tend to have fairly small gardens but just how small does > a garden have to be before a hive would be impractical ? Our garden is > roughly 25 feet by 100 feet with neighbours either side. One neighbour has a > sun house at the bottom of the garden which they do use during the summer > months. > > It would be interesting to hear peoples comments on the viability of a hive > in the garden... > > Many thanks... > > -- > Diane > > > Article 23078 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.beeb.net!not-for-mail From: "Diane Waller" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Bee Keeping in your garden Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 19:37:26 -0000 Organization: A Beeb User Sender: dianewaller@host-77a-181.dial.beeb.net Message-ID: <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: host-77a-181.dial.beeb.net X-Trace: news.beeb.net 950125026 16800 62.56.36.181 (9 Feb 2000 19:37:06 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@beeb.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 9 Feb 2000 19:37:06 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Lines: 21 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23078 Hello, Can I ask for the readers views on keeping bees in your garden, one possibly two hives. Needless to say there seem to be two schools of thought here, one saying "Yes, no problem." and the other saying "No." Here in England we tend to have fairly small gardens but just how small does a garden have to be before a hive would be impractical ? Our garden is roughly 25 feet by 100 feet with neighbours either side. One neighbour has a sun house at the bottom of the garden which they do use during the summer months. It would be interesting to hear peoples comments on the viability of a hive in the garden... Many thanks... -- Diane Article 23079 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news.gate.net!news.digizen.net!209.194.78.58 From: "John A. Taylor" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: ISO: Propolis for sale? Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 18:04:54 -0500 Organization: CyberGate, Inc. Lines: 2 Message-ID: <38A1F296.9D9792BE@digizen.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: news.digizen.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: news.gate.net 950136999 88964 209.194.78.12 (9 Feb 2000 22:56:39 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@gate.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 9 Feb 2000 22:56:39 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en,pdf Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23079 Anybody know a source for purchasing propolis? Article 23080 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!24.30.200.2!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: dead hive Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 08 Feb 2000 00:57:39 GMT References: <20000207122337.27004.00001938@ng-cj1.aol.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000207195739.23610.00001677@ng-fu1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23080 Hey Guys what are considered to be reasonable winter losses these days? USDA zone6 SE CT USA Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 23081 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!206.132.58.120!gw22.nn.bcandid.com!hub12.nn.bcandid.com!tw11.nn.bcandid.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: clipping Message-ID: References: <%i3n4.3733$Ks4.97551@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <389CEC9B.558298E6@visi.net> Organization: All X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.20 Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.100.16.35 X-Trace: tw11.nn.bcandid.com 949971799 216.100.16.35 (Mon, 07 Feb 2000 18:03:19 MST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 18:03:19 MST Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 01:03:19 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23081 Do the wings grow back in, as with human fingernails and hair? In article <389CEC9B.558298E6@visi.net>, Thombradnospamination@visi.net says... > Having her clipped will lessen the chance of loosing her prior to > getting her safely into the hive body after releasing. > > Article 23082 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQdQ!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "DP" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: My FREE on-line Beekeeping Course Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 20:23:29 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 29 Message-ID: References: <389EE990.DD6C26F7@BEEMASTER.COM> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3612.1700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3612.1700 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23082 John, I have to tell you you have a really nice site!! Keep up the great work! Don. John Clayton wrote in message <389EE990.DD6C26F7@BEEMASTER.COM>... >Please Visit my site if you are new to beekeeping or just need >information for school projects. My Novice Beekeeping Course is 22 >pages, 120 photos and lots of information to use as reference. Awesome >close-up photography of my bees, larva, etc.. > >The beekeeping course address is >http://www.beemaster.com/honeybee/beehome.htm > >But feel free to visit my COMPLETE site with over 120 pages, 550 photos >and 35 educational topics for the whole family at >http://www.beemaster.com > >Please let me know you found me here in NEWS GROUPS and let me know if >you found my site helpful. > >John the Beemaster > > Article 23083 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newspeer1.nac.net!news-FFM2.ecrc.net!news.mindspring.net!firehose.mindspring.com!not-for-mail From: "Oliver Frank" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: frame spacers Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:50:34 -0800 Organization: MindSpring Enterprises Lines: 8 Message-ID: <87nt2j$6mc$1@nntp4.atl.mindspring.net> References: <3889b4c6.46935294@news.ntplx.net> <3887D2D8.D2C6B24E@bellsouth.net> <3889E20A.C642FBFC@twcny.rr.com> <388B05C8.79971E29@kingston.net> Reply-To: "Oliver Frank" NNTP-Posting-Host: c7.ae.c7.da Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Server-Date: 8 Feb 2000 01:55:31 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23083 I've been using both nine frame and eight frame spacers in the honey suppers for thirty years, and prefer the eight frames spacing. I get huge fat combs that are very easy to uncap, and produce more honey for the amount of effort involved. The burr comb is irrelevant, as I clean it all up as I uncap. The Stoller spacers do get a bit gummed up with propolis, but the frames still can be jammed back in easily enough even after 25 years of propolis accumulation. Article 23084 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Commercial pollen supplements Lines: 11 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 08 Feb 2000 13:14:57 GMT References: <38979EEB.309C9CD5@bellsouth.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000208081457.27486.00002372@ng-fl1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23084 Bill Daniels wrote: <> HI Bill, I see no one has responded to your questions on-list. Did you get any replies off-list, and if so, what were they? An important part of your question it seems to me is why someone prefers a particular pollen supplement. John Article 23085 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!news-xfer.epix.net!news1.epix.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A03B72.D711168E@epix.net> From: Jamie X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en]C-CCK-MCD {TLC;RETAIL} (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: New to beekeeping Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 11 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 14:52:06 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.74.26.68 X-Complaints-To: abuse@epix.net X-Trace: news1.epix.net 950021526 209.74.26.68 (Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:52:06 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:52:06 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23085 This is my first winter with bee's. I try to look at the hive every week to make sure everything looks ok with it. I listen through the side with a stethoscope and i know where the cluster it..... but yesterday when I was checking on it, I saw dead bee's in the snow !! I would see bee's fly out and drop and never get back up...and I can hear bee's near the top of the hive buzzing?? should I look in it for food stores? its been cold here in the low 30's that day. I hope some one can help Thanks Jamie Article 23086 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsxfer.visi.net!firenze.visi.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A03BD2.689FC08@visi.net> From: Thom Bradley X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Commercial pollen supplements References: <38979EEB.309C9CD5@bellsouth.net> <20000208081457.27486.00002372@ng-fl1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 21 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 15:54:34 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp38.ts2-1.norfolk.visi.net NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 10:54:34 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23086 I see Dadant just offered up a new pollen substitute (their claim). They call it Brood Builder. It is soy, sucrose and yeast. The Amino acid list is impressive. Just under a US$/ lb at 25# bag. Has anyone seen any field trial experimentation with this? Thom Bradley Chesapeake, VA JMitc1014 wrote: > > Bill Daniels wrote: > < supplements or substitutes available from U.S. dealers? Are the syrup moistened > pollen patties the way to go once I start stimulative syrup feeding? >> > > HI Bill, > I see no one has responded to your questions on-list. Did you get any replies > off-list, and if so, what were they? An important part of your question it > seems to me is why someone prefers a particular pollen supplement. > > John Article 23087 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news-feed.fnsi.net!newsxfer.visi.net!firenze.visi.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A03C39.8ABA9C0F@visi.net> From: Thom Bradley X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: New to beekeeping References: <38A03B72.D711168E@epix.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 19 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 15:56:17 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp38.ts2-1.norfolk.visi.net NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 10:56:17 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23087 Just lift the back of the hive to feel the weight. Lift the bottom with one hand. If you left it easily, add sugar. If it is heavy, the food level is good. Thom Bradley Chesapeake, VA Jamie wrote: > > This is my first winter with bee's. I try to look at the hive every week > to make sure everything looks ok with it. I listen through the side with > a stethoscope and i know where the cluster it..... but yesterday when I > was checking on it, I saw dead bee's in the snow !! I would see bee's > fly out and drop and never get back up...and I can hear bee's near the > top of the hive buzzing?? should I look in it for food stores? its been > cold here in the low 30's that day. > I hope some one can help > Thanks > Jamie Article 23088 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!torn!news1.bellglobal.com!news20.bellglobal.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A03F49.4AA0C8D5@honeyroad.com> From: workerbee@honeyroad.com Organization: My Beekeeping Homepage: http://www.honeyroad.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: New to beekeeping References: <38A03B72.D711168E@epix.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 24 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 16:06:51 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.172.183.149 X-Trace: news20.bellglobal.com 950026011 206.172.183.149 (Tue, 08 Feb 2000 11:06:51 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 11:06:51 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23088 Hey there Jamie, Pilles of dead bees in front of the hive is quite normal. You'll loose about 35% over the winter on average ( I beleive) It's just natural atrition, that is, the older bees fly out and die to be less of a burden on the ret of the hive, that plus some bees fly out to deficate, and never make it back. Openning your hive now could be quite detrimental. Where ar you located? Allen B Jamie wrote: > This is my first winter with bee's. I try to look at the hive every week > to make sure everything looks ok with it. I listen through the side with > a stethoscope and i know where the cluster it..... but yesterday when I > was checking on it, I saw dead bee's in the snow !! I would see bee's > fly out and drop and never get back up...and I can hear bee's near the > top of the hive buzzing?? should I look in it for food stores? its been > cold here in the low 30's that day. > I hope some one can help > Thanks > Jamie Article 23089 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newshub.northeast.verio.net!verio!news-feeds.jump.net!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: southbee@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Breeders in SE FL Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 02:49:45 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 14 Message-ID: <87t908$eu4$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <389B60F1.7660DE04@bellsouth.net> <87h5lb$do4$1@saltmine.radix.net> <389C4E13.57CD311B@bellsouth.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 157.238.208.169 X-Article-Creation-Date: Thu Feb 10 02:49:45 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.7 [en]C-gatewaynet (Win98; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x34.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 157.238.208.169 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDsouthbee Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23089 Michael, Don't know of any in S. FL, but there is a company in N. Central FL in Howey in the Hills that my brother-in-law who is a commercial beekeeper gets his bees from every year. I get mine from Rossman Apiaries in Georgia and recommend them. Sincerely, southbee Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 23090 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: southbee@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Brood in moth, beetle infested frames Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 02:58:41 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 17 Message-ID: <87t9h0$f46$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 157.238.208.169 X-Article-Creation-Date: Thu Feb 10 02:58:41 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.7 [en]C-gatewaynet (Win98; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x34.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 157.238.208.169 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDsouthbee Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23090 Just found out that wax moth and hive beetles have been consuming the wax and winter stores in one of my colonies (which 99% of bees left). I stacked the top super, that had about 30-50 bees left, on the strong colony. However, don't know what to do with the brood in the infested frames that is in different stages. Really don't want to lose them. Put them in separate hive box with a few bees for now. If I put in a couple of healthy, bee covered frames will it be enough to rid the other 8 frames or will I lose these too? Thanks. southbee Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 23091 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!24.30.200.2!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 10 Feb 2000 03:04:47 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000209220447.25723.00002304@ng-ff1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23091 In order not to starve, the bees need to be able to warm up enough to move to the honey in a cold snap like our recent one (I am in Eastern Massachusetts). If you paint the brood chamber boxes a dark color, they absorb a little more heat from the sun on cold winter days, increasing the likelihood of bees moving to the food. I painted mine a sort of dark brown color. I painted my supers white however, because in the summer I want as little heat retention as possible. What color are your hives painted? Article 23092 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net> Subject: Re: Bee Keeping in your garden Lines: 63 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 04:04:04 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.48.190 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 950155444 12.72.48.190 (Thu, 10 Feb 2000 04:04:04 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 04:04:04 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23092 To me it is impractical to have a hive if the available space is too small for the physical dimensions of the hive plus some room to work around it, so I would say no to a yard any smaller than say 10 sq ft. My point is that even most apartment balconies are suitable. I have 2 hives on a 30 x 40 ft lot with neighbors on both sides and in the rear so your lot is looking pretty farm-like to me. As long as you act responsibly, you should have no problems. Some ideas: 1. Don't try to conceal your activity from your neighbors. You have nothing to hide and they nothing to fear. 2. Educate them so they understand the benefit to them and their garden. 3. Share some honey with them. 4. Plan a flight path using plants, fences etc. so they are well above humans when the leave your garden. 5. Maintain a good temperament and requeen if they start to get aggressive. 6. Don't let them swarm. 7. Provide a water source for your bees. 8. Provide a water source for your bees. 9. Provide a water source for your bees. 10. Provide a water source for your bees. I think you get the point. If your neighbor drinks lots of Bass ale and hangs out in the sunroom in the buff then all bets are off. Act irresponsibly and hope he moves. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "Diane Waller" wrote in message news:87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net... > Hello, > > Can I ask for the readers views on keeping bees in your garden, one possibly > two hives. Needless to say there seem to be two schools of thought here, one > saying "Yes, no problem." and the other saying "No." > > Here in England we tend to have fairly small gardens but just how small does > a garden have to be before a hive would be impractical ? Our garden is > roughly 25 feet by 100 feet with neighbours either side. One neighbour has a > sun house at the bottom of the garden which they do use during the summer > months. > > It would be interesting to hear peoples comments on the viability of a hive > in the garden... > > Many thanks... > > -- > Diane > > Article 23093 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newspeer1.nac.net!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Von Frish wrong on bee distances Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 12:37:52 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 21 Message-ID: <87uam4$hlh$1@news1.Radix.Net> NNTP-Posting-Host: p13.a1.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23093 Mandyan V. Srinivasan of the Australian National University has shown that honeybees do not guage distance by stomac pressure as Von Frish believed. Bees were made to fly through a six foot tunnel with a random checker board pattern to get to the food. The visual pattern created an illusion of a lot of distance going by as the bee flew. When the bee got back to the hive it's dance indicated that the food was 31 times the actual distance! The full article can be found in Feb. 5, 2000 Science News. Greg the beekeep // Bee Just & Just Bee! =8{ })))- Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA \\ www.radix.net\~honeybs Article 23094 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Brood in moth, beetle infested frames Lines: 33 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 10 Feb 2000 15:51:33 GMT References: <87t9h0$f46$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000210105133.01205.00000476@ng-fc1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23094 >Just found out that wax moth and hive beetles have been consuming the >wax and winter stores in one of my colonies (which 99% of bees left). I >stacked the top super, that had about 30-50 bees left, on the strong >colony. However, don't know what to do with the brood in the infested >frames that is in different stages. Really don't want to lose them. Put >them in separate hive box with a few bees for now. If I put in a couple >of healthy, bee covered frames will it be enough to rid the other 8 >frames or will I lose these too? You may be able to get bees to clean it up if they are strong. Be sure to clear out all the webbing that you can, as it will entangle bees and protect the worms. If you have significant brood on a particular frame, you may wish to do this. Here in SC, worms will freeze on a cold night, but they tend to cluster together (just like bees) and the webbing provides insulation. If you clean up most of this webbing, shake off as many worms as you can, then leave it out on a cold night, you may not kill every last worm, but you'll get most of them. Alternatively, if you are in an area which doesn't have cold winter nights, put the frames in a freezer. Also be sure to identify the reason your hive was weak enough to let the worms get a foothold. Queenless? starvation? varroa? Or more to the point - american foulbrood. If there is AFB scale, burn the frames, wax worms and all. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Scene: http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 23095 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!nuq-peer.news.verio.net!news.verio.net!iad-read.news.verio.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A2F712.65CB177F@publicwelfare.org> From: Rebecca Davis Organization: Public Welfare Foundation X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.08 [en] (Win95; I) MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Hive-killer Mockingbird? Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 12 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 12:36:18 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 207.32.85.162 X-Complaints-To: abuse@verio.net X-Trace: iad-read.news.verio.net 950204230 207.32.85.162 (Thu, 10 Feb 2000 17:37:10 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 17:37:10 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23095 Would a hungry mockingbird be enough to do in a healthy hive? When I was home at Christmas time (we had a warm spell, in the 50s and 60s) I noticed that a mockingbird was frequently on the hive. Took me a few hours, but I finally realized that he was up to no good, and watched him hunting bees. I think he just picked them off as they emerged or returned from their cleansing flights. I quickly made a scarecrow out of shiny ribbons and he disappeared after that, but the hive was dead within a week or two. The hive was a little light on bees going into the winter, but healthy and with good stores. Maybe the mockingbird just picked off the bees until their numbers were too low to sustain a cluster. Anyone else have trouble with birds? Article 23096 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bobpursley@aol.com (Bob Pursley) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive-killer Mockingbird? Lines: 14 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 10 Feb 2000 19:37:25 GMT References: <38A2F712.65CB177F@publicwelfare.org> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com X-Newsreader: Session Scheduler Message-ID: <20000210143725.09817.00000236@nso-bg.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23096 In article <38A2F712.65CB177F@publicwelfare.org>, Rebecca Davis writes: > Maybe the mockingbird >just picked off the bees until their numbers were too low to sustain a >cluster. Anyone else have trouble with birds? > > > I have watched a number of birds feed on hives at the entrances, and a few do it in flight. Barn Swallows will catch bees in the air if larger insects (ie dragonflys) are not readily available, especially when the swallows are feeding young. Article 23097 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!berfa.demon.co.uk!dag From: David Gladstone Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bee Keeping in your garden Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 18:14:06 +0000 Organization: berfa - where computers have attitude Message-ID: References: <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: berfa.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: berfa.demon.co.uk:158.152.69.159 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 950206832 nnrp-11:8552 NO-IDENT berfa.demon.co.uk:158.152.69.159 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 U Lines: 47 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23097 I kept bees in suburban Bristol UK for 3 years before my neighbours learned about them from the window-cleaner who got stung by a wasp intent on raiding my hives. I would recommend a level of openness, perhaps with a jar of honey. Some people (including myself) believe that local honey, propolis, wax etc. are beneficial in some instances of eczema, hayfever and some forms of asthma. I have only limited anecdotal evidence but believe it to be beneficial. The main suggestions such as giving the bees plenty of lift and a safe watering place have been already covered by other respondents. I would like to add a comment about the value of membership of an affiliated beekeeping association (BBKA). Membership often includes both disease and third party insurance. Good luck and enjoy. In article <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net>, Diane Waller writes >Hello, > >Can I ask for the readers views on keeping bees in your garden, one possibly >two hives. Needless to say there seem to be two schools of thought here, one >saying "Yes, no problem." and the other saying "No." > >Here in England we tend to have fairly small gardens but just how small does >a garden have to be before a hive would be impractical ? Our garden is >roughly 25 feet by 100 feet with neighbours either side. One neighbour has a >sun house at the bottom of the garden which they do use during the summer >months. > >It would be interesting to hear peoples comments on the viability of a hive >in the garden... > >Many thanks... > >-- >Diane > > -- Dr David A Gladstone - Hon Secretary Bristol Beekeepers Association, Bristol UK web site www.bristol-beekeepers.freeserve.co.uk Article 23098 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bee Keeping in your garden Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:46:29 +0000 Message-ID: References: <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 950209273 nnrp-03:2209 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 59 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23098 In article , George Styer writes >1. Don't try to conceal your activity from your neighbors. You have nothing >to hide and they nothing to fear. Good advice. It is possible to work with high walls out of sight (if the site allows) but when the bees cause a problem or two, the reaction is going to be a lot stronger than if your neighbours were brought into the discussion. If they say no, then you are stuck. >2. Educate them so they understand the benefit to them and their garden. >3. Share some honey with them. >4. Plan a flight path using plants, fences etc. so they are well above >humans when the leave your garden. >5. Maintain a good temperament and requeen if they start to get aggressive. >6. Don't let them swarm. >7. Provide a water source for your bees. >8. Provide a water source for your bees. >9. Provide a water source for your bees. >10. Provide a water source for your bees. All good advice along with all other postings. The temperament is the key. Then you'll be into the debate on the best bees!! Crosses tend to produce bad temper. So, you must either import new queens to replace the old ones regularly so you stay in control, or you have a fall back position. Join your local association and work with other beekeepers to maintain a good tempered stock. I prefer to work with as near native bees as I can. Unless we control the matings, we are always liable to bad temper in a new generation. Then another site to move them to becomes important. Most of my bees are quiet and easy to work with after 9 years. But I have had to move a complete apiary because the lady of the house attracted bees (and wasps) which stung her badly and her reaction was almost to the point of anaphylactic shock. Many will argue to import Carniolan or Italian bees on account of temperament, but they will be a constant source of cross fertilisation for everyone else's bees in the locality and bad temper is thus perpetuated. Brother Adam wrote off the native bee because of temper. He did *not* take into account the persistent inter-racial crossing we have been subjected to. Neighbours using tools which vibrate at a low rate, like a mattock or rotovator or tractor chugging on idle, can attract bees to the area and sting anyone there. A local farmer, working two fields away was attacked just after I worked my hives at the bottom of the garden. I am fortunate to live in the country usually without problems and I know many people are very successful in towns. A famous case of Parisian honey from 3 hives on the roof of a famous building comes to mind. So, high up, if you can. But then you may be more visible and there may be more people to object. Remember too, that certain scents worn by both men and women have solvents which mimic bees own scent designed to attract other bees to sting, if the offending animal didn't go away. Hence you hear about occasional cases where someone is attacked by large numbers of bees, especially if it was the beekeeper opening the hive which caused them to feel under attack. Joining your association will give you insurance to cover claims against you carrying out normal beekeeping. Good luck. Let's hear from successful garden beekeepers. -- James Kilty Article 23099 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!europa.netcrusader.net!24.30.200.2!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.cs.com!not-for-mail From: hollesj@cs.com (Hollesj) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bee Keeping in your garden Lines: 6 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.cs.com X-Admin: news@cs.com Date: 10 Feb 2000 22:30:16 GMT References: <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net> Organization: CompuServe (http://www.compuserve.com/) Message-ID: <20000210173016.05415.00000241@ng-cf1.news.cs.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23099 I kept a single hive with no trouble at all in a small suburban backyard. My bees were Italians and so gentle I never got stung at all in working them, though I was a novice (still am) and very clumsy. Perhaps their extremely patient nature was why I had such an easy time with the neighbors. Try two hives, you'll learn more and have a better chance for success. Jane in Colorado Article 23100 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "princeton" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 00:29:58 -0000 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 41 Message-ID: <87vlb7$t7l$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <20000209220447.25723.00002304@ng-ff1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-225.hydrogen.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news8.svr.pol.co.uk 950229159 29941 62.136.0.225 (11 Feb 2000 00:32:39 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 11 Feb 2000 00:32:39 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23100 Hi there, Well your bees definitely starved despite there being sufficient stores. To get through a very severe winter several factors are important :- General good health of the colony; plenty of capped stores; a large enough colony genetically appropriate to the environment. It's clear that your colony satisfied the first two. It seems unlikely that a colony capable of producing so well in the summer would be too small to get through a winter. Maybe your Buckfast strain was not right for your location. Might I suggest you check with other keepers in your area to see if they have had similar problems and if there are any common factors. bets wishes Freddie Cooke Steve Chapin wrote in message news:schapin-1002000839470001@h000502d05653.ne.mediaone.net... > In article <20000209220447.25723.00002304@ng-ff1.aol.com>, > jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) wrote: > > > In order not to starve, the bees need to be able to warm up enough to move > > to the honey in a cold snap like our recent one (I am in Eastern > > Massachusetts). > > If you paint the brood chamber boxes a dark color, they absorb a > little more > > heat from the sun on cold winter days, increasing the likelihood of bees > moving > > to the food. I painted mine a sort of dark brown color. > > I painted my supers white however, because in the summer I want as little > > heat retention as possible. > > What color are your hives painted? > > The hive bodies are painted white. They are on two cement blocks, which > are about 4 inches in the ground. The ground is slightly inclined facing > toward the south. I was also concerned about the summer heat, which is > why I used white paint. Even on our hottest days this summer, they seemed > to cope well. > > Cheers > Steve Article 23101 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!newsfeed2.news.nl.uu.net!sun4nl!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "princeton" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bee Keeping in your garden Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 00:40:25 -0000 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 48 Message-ID: <87vlur$ths$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-225.hydrogen.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news8.svr.pol.co.uk 950229787 30268 62.136.0.225 (11 Feb 2000 00:43:07 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 11 Feb 2000 00:43:07 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23101 Dear Dianne, I am in Wolverhampton and am unable to keep bees in my garden 60m x 40m due to my neighbours sensitivity to stings. I did keep them at my last place which had proportions the same as yours and much the same things going on around it. For a couple of years all went well until the temperament of the bees altered drastically. For the next three years life was difficult and I had some real problems with neighbours in the swarming season. Following two visits by council officials and a complaints from the neighbourhood watch group I did the sensible thing. I now have my colonies divided between two apiaries in Shropshire about seven miles away from home. They cost nothing because I give the farmers the produce of one hive based on the average yield. It makes for really happy bee keeping. Whatever else you do check with your local association or bee officer if there is one and they can advise you about any local bye-laws. Regards, Freddie Cooke Diane Waller wrote in message news:87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net... > Hello, > > Can I ask for the readers views on keeping bees in your garden, one possibly > two hives. Needless to say there seem to be two schools of thought here, one > saying "Yes, no problem." and the other saying "No." > > Here in England we tend to have fairly small gardens but just how small does > a garden have to be before a hive would be impractical ? Our garden is > roughly 25 feet by 100 feet with neighbours either side. One neighbour has a > sun house at the bottom of the garden which they do use during the summer > months. > > It would be interesting to hear peoples comments on the viability of a hive > in the garden... > > Many thanks... > > -- > Diane > > Article 23102 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Larvin 3.2 & bees Lines: 53 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 11 Feb 2000 17:26:31 GMT References: <20000211110145.21809.00000161@ng-fi1.aol.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000211122631.27204.00002995@ng-cc1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23102 From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) > I've made arrangements with a farmer to put bees in one of his fields, >where >one of the crops is corn. He says, however, that he sprays the corn with >something called Larvin 3.2. The label says it's toxic to honey bees. > He said he would be willing to move around his spraying time to avoid >flying >bees, and I said I would ask other beekeepers who are doing pollination if >they >have any experience managing bees around this pesticide. >What's the best tactic to avoid this pesticide, and will the bees be affected >regardless of what time he sprays? First question: Are the bees going to be in the corn when he sprays? Bees will sometimes gather pollen from sweet corn during tassel, I've not seen them in field corn though I've heard they also can gether pollen here. If the corn is not in tassel, and there are no blooming weeds in the field (or margins, if it is an aerial application) , there will not be bees in the field, so there is no problem. If bees are present in the field, then the label is the compelling item. You can get a copy of the label of most pesticides at Crop Data Management Systems: http://www.cdms.net/manuf/manuf.asp Download a copy of the label and check the environmental hazards, which is where bee directions are placed. The applicator is required by law to follow these directions whether the beehives are on the property or not. You see the directions refer entirely to the *foraging* bees, not the hives. If you look at the Larvin label you can divide it into the two main types. This one says it is toxic to bees by direct contact; it does not mention residues. This simplifies the directions, which state that application is not allowed when bees are visiting the treatment area. It is only necessary to know when bees are visiting. Many applicators simply spray late in the day, after all bee activity is done. Or they could monitor and spray when no more pollen is being brought to the entrance of the hives. Without trying to offend your farmer, you should make it clear that bee protection is required by law, by compliance with label directions, no matter what the source of the bees that visit. Visiting bees have the legal "right of way." And this is urgently needed to be made clear, in the light of dwindling pollinator populations. Protecting honeybees will also tend to protect other pollinators. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 23103 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Larvin 3.2 & bees Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 11 Feb 2000 16:01:45 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000211110145.21809.00000161@ng-fi1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23103 I've made arrangements with a farmer to put bees in one of his fields, where one of the crops is corn. He says, however, that he sprays the corn with something called Larvin 3.2. The label says it's toxic to honey bees. He said he would be willing to move around his spraying time to avoid flying bees, and I said I would ask other beekeepers who are doing pollination if they have any experience managing bees around this pesticide. What's the best tactic to avoid this pesticide, and will the bees be affected regardless of what time he sprays? Article 23104 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bobpursley@aol.com (Bob Pursley) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Larvin 3.2 & bees Lines: 25 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 11 Feb 2000 18:54:37 GMT References: <20000211122631.27204.00002995@ng-cc1.aol.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com X-Newsreader: Session Scheduler Message-ID: <20000211135437.19010.00000116@nso-co.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23104 > >From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) > >> I've made arrangements with a farmer to put bees in one of his fields, >>where >>one of the crops is corn. He says, however, that he sprays the corn with >>something called Larvin 3.2. The label says it's toxic to honey bees. >> He said he would be willing to move around his spraying time to avoid >>flying >>bees, and I said I would ask other beekeepers who are doing pollination if >>they >>have any experience managing bees around this pesticide. >>What's the best tactic to avoid this pesticide, and will the bees be >affected >>regardless of what time he sprays? > My thought is why are you moving bees there? You need forage (nectar and pollen) for your bees. Are the cultivated crops there honey plants? Corn is not, and the pollen is not very valuable for bees (comes late in the season, and is not good for raising brood (as I remember my pollen nutrition readings)). Cultivated fields are monocrop, which means if the crop is not a honey plant, there will be no honey. Think it out if you really want bees in that location. And then the pesticide cost on your production. Article 23105 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Message-ID: <38A4628E.F41494D0@cybertours.com> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 14:27:10 -0500 From: Midnite Bee Reply-To: midnitebee@cybertours.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: book on bees and Romania Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------077FB7CD5B1843D58D2FB3A9" NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.222.109.92 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.222.109.92 X-Trace: 11 Feb 2000 14:18:50 -0500, 209.222.109.92 Lines: 83 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.98.63.6 Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.cybertours.com!209.222.109.92 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23105 --------------077FB7CD5B1843D58D2FB3A9 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings! We received this message in our web page guest book: Name: J. Beth Ciesielski Website: Bridges for Education Referred by: From a Friend From: USA Time: 2000-02-08 16:30:30 Comments: Dear Bee Friends, I am writing a book on bees and Romania. Two dissidents became beekeepers after they were fired from their jobs as physicists in Bucharest...true story. I would like to learn more about the hidden world of bees and bee keepers during the hard years of Ceauceseu..a metaphor for Romania, a country which I love. I have visited the Bee Research Institute in Bucharest and they are helpful very warm to this idea. But I am still searching for stories to include of those days. Thank you for your help, Best wishes, Beth -- Herb/Norma Holly-B Apiary PO Box 26 Wells,Maine 04090-0026 Midnite Bee http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee Stony Critters http://pages.ivillage.com/wh/stonycritters/ Old & Rare Beekeeping Books http://www.cybertours.com/%7Emidnitebee/html/books.html --------------077FB7CD5B1843D58D2FB3A9 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit  
Greetings!
We received this message in our web page guest book:
 Name: J. Beth Ciesielski
 Website: Bridges for Education
 Referred by: From a Friend
 From: USA
 Time: 2000-02-08 16:30:30
 Comments: Dear Bee Friends, I am writing a book on bees and Romania. Two dissidents became
beekeepers after they
 were fired from their jobs as physicists in Bucharest...true story. I would like to learn more
about the hidden world of
 bees and bee keepers during the hard years of Ceauceseu..a metaphor for Romania, a country
which I love. I have visited
 the Bee Research Institute in Bucharest and they are helpful very warm to this idea. But I am
still searching for stories to
 include of those days. Thank you for your help, Best wishes, Beth

--
Herb/Norma
Holly-B Apiary
PO Box 26
Wells,Maine 04090-0026
Midnite Bee
http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee
Stony Critters
http://pages.ivillage.com/wh/stonycritters/
Old & Rare Beekeeping Books
http://www.cybertours.com/%7Emidnitebee/html/books.html
  --------------077FB7CD5B1843D58D2FB3A9-- Article 23106 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Message-ID: <38A46504.A76F3125@cybertours.com> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 14:37:40 -0500 From: Midnite Bee Reply-To: midnitebee@cybertours.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: book on bees and Romania References: <38A4628E.F41494D0@cybertours.com> Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------6CC3F5008AC33A88CCC84D76" NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.222.109.92 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.222.109.92 X-Trace: 11 Feb 2000 14:29:20 -0500, 209.222.109.92 Lines: 118 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.98.63.6 Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.cybertours.com!209.222.109.92 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23106 --------------6CC3F5008AC33A88CCC84D76 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit OOPS!! J. Beth Ciesielski email address:jbc@buffalo.edu Midnite Bee wrote: > > Greetings! > We received this message in our web page guest book: > Name: J. Beth Ciesielski > Website: Bridges for Education > Referred by: From a Friend > From: USA > Time: 2000-02-08 16:30:30 > Comments: Dear Bee Friends, I am writing a book on bees and Romania. > Two dissidents became > beekeepers after they > were fired from their jobs as physicists in Bucharest...true story. I > would like to learn more > about the hidden world of > bees and bee keepers during the hard years of Ceauceseu..a metaphor > for Romania, a country > which I love. I have visited > the Bee Research Institute in Bucharest and they are helpful very > warm to this idea. But I am > still searching for stories to > include of those days. Thank you for your help, Best wishes, Beth > > -- > Herb/Norma > Holly-B Apiary > PO Box 26 > Wells,Maine 04090-0026 > Midnite Bee > http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee > Stony Critters > http://pages.ivillage.com/wh/stonycritters/ > Old & Rare Beekeeping Books > http://www.cybertours.com/%7Emidnitebee/html/books.html > -- Herb/Norma Holly-B Apiary PO Box 26 Wells,Maine 04090-0026 Midnite Bee http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee Stony Critters http://pages.ivillage.com/wh/stonycritters/ Old & Rare Beekeeping Books http://www.cybertours.com/%7Emidnitebee/html/books.html --------------6CC3F5008AC33A88CCC84D76 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit OOPS!!

J. Beth Ciesielski email address:jbc@buffalo.edu

Midnite Bee wrote:

 
Greetings!
We received this message in our web page guest book:
 Name: J. Beth Ciesielski
 Website: Bridges for Education
 Referred by: From a Friend
 From: USA
 Time: 2000-02-08 16:30:30
 Comments: Dear Bee Friends, I am writing a book on bees and Romania. Two dissidents became
beekeepers after they
 were fired from their jobs as physicists in Bucharest...true story. I would like to learn more
about the hidden world of
 bees and bee keepers during the hard years of Ceauceseu..a metaphor for Romania, a country
which I love. I have visited
 the Bee Research Institute in Bucharest and they are helpful very warm to this idea. But I am
still searching for stories to
 include of those days. Thank you for your help, Best wishes, Beth

--
Herb/Norma
Holly-B Apiary
PO Box 26
Wells,Maine 04090-0026
Midnite Bee
http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee
Stony Critters
http://pages.ivillage.com/wh/stonycritters/
Old & Rare Beekeeping Books
http://www.cybertours.com/%7Emidnitebee/html/books.html
 

--
Herb/Norma
Holly-B Apiary
PO Box 26
Wells,Maine 04090-0026
Midnite Bee
http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee
Stony Critters
http://pages.ivillage.com/wh/stonycritters/
Old & Rare Beekeeping Books
http://www.cybertours.com/%7Emidnitebee/html/books.html
  --------------6CC3F5008AC33A88CCC84D76-- Article 23107 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!logbridge.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Lines: 81 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 22:31:41 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.49.201 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 950135501 12.72.49.201 (Wed, 09 Feb 2000 22:31:41 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 22:31:41 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23107 You don't say when in the fall you treated with Apistan. You may have been too late. I lost my strongest hive because a back injury prevented me from doing the requires work for a week. The bigger they are, the harder they fall and in this case 1 week made a dramatic difference. Decline due to PMS seems to work on a logarithmic scale. But I don't think this is what happened. Heads down in cells is typical of starvation and just because the hive is heavy it does not mean that the bees can get to it. Bees will tend to move up to their stores and unless there is honey above them, it may be out of their reach. Anyone who has been keeping bees for some time has seen the remains of a starved cluster inches away from a honey motherlode. But if they can't break cluster to get to it, it may as well be laying out in the snow. Those bees you found scattered were probably in a desperate hunt for food. Old timers will tell you that cold does not kill bees, moisture does (and beekeepers too). To the contrary, you want a good cold period so the bees don't go through their stores like wild fire before it is time to rear brood. Simple fact is that warm (active) bees consume a lot more than cool (clustered) bees. IMO, the super packed with insulation was unnecessary and probably contributed to the downfall. If you have the opportunity next winter try a little experiment with 2 colonies of approximate equal size, health and stores. Leave 1 uninsulated with an upper vent (such as a matchstick under the corners of the inner cover). On the other duplicate what you did this year. You will probably find that of the two the one that fares the best is the one with the least pampering. The fine powdered stuff could be mold or bits of wax. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "Steve Chapin" wrote in message news:schapin-0902001443060001@h000502d05653.ne.mediaone.net... > I opened up my hive today and found that it was dead. Here is the history > of the hive: > > Hive was created from a package of Buckfast bees last April. It is > located in Northeastern MA. Initially the hive was fed with syrup and > fumadil. All summer and early fall, the hive was extremely strong. It > produced 4 supers of honey (about 125 lbs.) After I removed the supers, > the remaining two hive bodies weighed about 140 lbs. > > In the fall, after the honey was off, I used Apistan for about 45 days. > At the same time, I added a Terramycin patty. The last time I saw bee > activity was in beginning of Nov, when I removed the Apistan strips. > > I opened the hive today as it is warm (40 degrees) and found a clump of > dead bees on the top of the second hive body. I expected to find the bees > in a clump, but they seemed to be scattered over the hive. One frame had > many bees with their heads down in the comb, looking like they were eating > honey. There was still a lot of honey in that hive body, as it weighed > about 40-50 lbs. I pulled 5 frames and found much the same; lots of honey > and some bees head down in the comb. > > The lower hive body had less honey as it was mostly empty brood cells. > When I removed the top hive body, I found more dead bees on the top of the > frames. There was also a fine light colored powder. I looked much like > fine sawdust. It was the heaviest on the center frames. > > The winter here was cold, with many days below zero, with a wind. The > hive consisted of two hive bodies, an inner cover (inverted so the side > cutout acted as a vent), then a empty super with fiberglass insulation and > finally the top cover. There is an entrance reducer, 3/4 inch opening > exposed and facing upward. I never used a queen excluder on the hive. > > The bees and comb appeared to be intact, no evidence of predation. > > So, my question is, What happened?? > > Cheers > Steve Chapin Article 23108 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!24.30.200.2!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bobpursley@aol.com (Bob Pursley) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bee Keeping in your garden Lines: 17 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 09 Feb 2000 23:30:02 GMT References: <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com X-Newsreader: Session Scheduler Message-ID: <20000209183002.19010.00000001@nso-co.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23108 In article <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net>, "Diane Waller" writes: > >Here in England we tend to have fairly small gardens but just how small does >a garden have to be before a hive would be impractical ? Our garden is >roughly 25 feet by 100 feet with neighbours either side. One neighbour has a >sun house at the bottom of the garden which they do use during the summer >months. > >It would be interesting to hear peoples comments on the viability of a hive >in the garden... You will be restricted on using power implements in the garden, Bees dont like them. You need to face the hives toward a fence, so they are forced to fly upwards away from pedistrans. Working an a garden , sweaty, dont mix with bees coming home, if they fly above you, it is better. Article 23109 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!nntp.frontiernet.net!nntp.gctr.net!news.frontiernet.net!not-for-mail From: "busybee" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 18:27:49 -0600 Organization: Frontier GlobalCenter Inc. Lines: 52 Message-ID: <87t0ke$7e4m$1@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: 209-130-165-99.nas2.lec.gblx.net X-Trace: node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net 950142414 243862 209.130.165.99 (10 Feb 2000 00:26:54 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@frontiernet.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 10 Feb 2000 00:26:54 GMT X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23109 It sounds like a fluvalinate resistance or that the strips were not in place in time. Strips should be in place as soon as the honey is taken off...so the young bees will have the benefit of a full apistan treatment. Could have been starvation...you did not say what size the cluster was. Wintering bees in a climate with snow and cold as yours---you should begin winter with a large cluster (doubling hives if you have to). --Busybee Steve Chapin wrote in message ... >I opened up my hive today and found that it was dead. Here is the history >of the hive: > >Hive was created from a package of Buckfast bees last April. It is >located in Northeastern MA. Initially the hive was fed with syrup and >fumadil. All summer and early fall, the hive was extremely strong. It >produced 4 supers of honey (about 125 lbs.) After I removed the supers, >the remaining two hive bodies weighed about 140 lbs. > >In the fall, after the honey was off, I used Apistan for about 45 days. >At the same time, I added a Terramycin patty. The last time I saw bee >activity was in beginning of Nov, when I removed the Apistan strips. > >I opened the hive today as it is warm (40 degrees) and found a clump of >dead bees on the top of the second hive body. I expected to find the bees >in a clump, but they seemed to be scattered over the hive. One frame had >many bees with their heads down in the comb, looking like they were eating >honey. There was still a lot of honey in that hive body, as it weighed >about 40-50 lbs. I pulled 5 frames and found much the same; lots of honey >and some bees head down in the comb. > >The lower hive body had less honey as it was mostly empty brood cells. >When I removed the top hive body, I found more dead bees on the top of the >frames. There was also a fine light colored powder. I looked much like >fine sawdust. It was the heaviest on the center frames. > >The winter here was cold, with many days below zero, with a wind. The >hive consisted of two hive bodies, an inner cover (inverted so the side >cutout acted as a vent), then a empty super with fiberglass insulation and >finally the top cover. There is an entrance reducer, 3/4 inch opening >exposed and facing upward. I never used a queen excluder on the hive. > >The bees and comb appeared to be intact, no evidence of predation. > >So, my question is, What happened?? > >Cheers > Steve Chapin Article 23110 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!paloalto-snf1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!webtv.net!not-for-mail From: tenmoku@webtv.net (Hank Mishima) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: ISO: Propolis for sale? Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 23:49:10 -0800 (PST) Organization: WebTV Subscriber Lines: 4 Message-ID: <481-38A26D76-27@storefull-103.iap.bryant.webtv.net> References: <38A1F296.9D9792BE@digizen.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAsAhRp8n1iwDuM7BtkCGKMa61fUail3AIUBWag+5cSWEo+ITK6QTPQ2y6QrEI= Content-Disposition: Inline Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23110 Ruhl Bee Supply had a few bags today. Phone 503-256-4231 n Portland, OR. To contact your elected officials see www.vote-smart.org Article 23111 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!ptdnetS!newsgate.ptd.net!nnrp1.ptd.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Royal W. Draper" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <38A1F296.9D9792BE@digizen.net> Subject: Re: Propolis for sale? Lines: 16 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Message-ID: Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 13:00:23 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.186.180.40 X-Complaints-To: abuse@ptd.net X-Trace: nnrp1.ptd.net 950187623 204.186.180.40 (Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:00:23 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:00:23 EST Organization: PenTeleData http://www.ptd.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23111 We have a large inventory of different grades of Propolis. Visit our website or give us a call. Royal W. Draper Draper's Super Bee Apiaries, Inc. 800-233-4273 draperb@ptd.net www.draperbee.com John A. Taylor wrote in message news:38A1F296.9D9792BE@digizen.net... > Anybody know a source for purchasing propolis? > Article 23112 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Brood in moth, beetle infested frames Lines: 18 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 10 Feb 2000 13:26:36 GMT References: <87t9h0$f46$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000210082636.27481.00002730@ng-fl1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23112 There is a product that was sold a few years ago under the name Certan that was sold to beekeepers to control wax moth infestations. The active ingredient was Btk, a beneficial organism (bacteria) that could be sprinkled on the combs and which infests the gut of the wax moth larvae, killing them. It's harmless to bees, though (not sure about bee brood though). Perhaps Btk could be used to kill Small Hive Beetle larvae, too. However, Btk (that's Bt type k), to my knowledge, has not been tested on SHB. I am currently in the process of ordering the latest configuration of Certan for beekeepers from an out-of-country supplier. It is now called Bee 401, and is manufactured in France. For some reason, no American beekeeping supplier stocks it. Since I don't have a copy of the label, I don't know what the instructions for use are, and whether or not it is harmful to bee brood. I'll let you know when it arrives. In the meantime, if you wanted to try out Btk, it is available in several forms from many different garden suppliers as it controls a variety of pests by attacking them in the larval stage. This may be cheaper in the long run than getting sometihing specially marketed to beekeepers. John Article 23113 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!chnws03.mediaone.net!24.128.1.101!chnws05.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.44.7!wbnws01.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!schapin From: schapin@mindspring.com (Steve Chapin) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Message-ID: References: <87t0ke$7e4m$1@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net> Organization: Chapin Consulting X-Newsreader: MT-NewsWatcher 2.4.4 Lines: 64 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 13:39:37 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.218.82.151 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: wbnws01.ne.mediaone.net 950189977 24.218.82.151 (Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:39:37 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:39:37 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23113 The apistan strips were put in just after I removed the last super. That would have been Sept 10 (I kept notes). When I opened the hive there was still plenty of honey, in total probably 10 full frames. I have no idea how big the cluster was. How would I determine this? Is this basically the same as estimating the size of the colony? That is, remove all the frames and estimate from that? Cheers Steve In article <87t0ke$7e4m$1@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net>, "busybee" wrote: > It sounds like a fluvalinate resistance or that the strips were not in place > in time. Strips should be in place as soon as the honey is taken off...so > the young bees will have the benefit of a full apistan treatment. > > Could have been starvation...you did not say what size the cluster was. > Wintering bees in a climate with snow and cold as yours---you should begin > winter with a large cluster (doubling hives if you have to). > > --Busybee > > > Steve Chapin wrote in message ... > >I opened up my hive today and found that it was dead. Here is the history > >of the hive: > > > >Hive was created from a package of Buckfast bees last April. It is > >located in Northeastern MA. Initially the hive was fed with syrup and > >fumadil. All summer and early fall, the hive was extremely strong. It > >produced 4 supers of honey (about 125 lbs.) After I removed the supers, > >the remaining two hive bodies weighed about 140 lbs. > > > >In the fall, after the honey was off, I used Apistan for about 45 days. > >At the same time, I added a Terramycin patty. The last time I saw bee > >activity was in beginning of Nov, when I removed the Apistan strips. > > > >I opened the hive today as it is warm (40 degrees) and found a clump of > >dead bees on the top of the second hive body. I expected to find the bees > >in a clump, but they seemed to be scattered over the hive. One frame had > >many bees with their heads down in the comb, looking like they were eating > >honey. There was still a lot of honey in that hive body, as it weighed > >about 40-50 lbs. I pulled 5 frames and found much the same; lots of honey > >and some bees head down in the comb. > > > >The lower hive body had less honey as it was mostly empty brood cells. > >When I removed the top hive body, I found more dead bees on the top of the > >frames. There was also a fine light colored powder. I looked much like > >fine sawdust. It was the heaviest on the center frames. > > > >The winter here was cold, with many days below zero, with a wind. The > >hive consisted of two hive bodies, an inner cover (inverted so the side > >cutout acted as a vent), then a empty super with fiberglass insulation and > >finally the top cover. There is an entrance reducer, 3/4 inch opening > >exposed and facing upward. I never used a queen excluder on the hive. > > > >The bees and comb appeared to be intact, no evidence of predation. > > > >So, my question is, What happened?? > > > >Cheers > > Steve Chapin Article 23114 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!chnws02.mediaone.net!chnws05.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.44.7!wbnws01.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!schapin From: schapin@mindspring.com (Steve Chapin) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Message-ID: References: <20000209220447.25723.00002304@ng-ff1.aol.com> Organization: Chapin Consulting X-Newsreader: MT-NewsWatcher 2.4.4 Lines: 23 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 13:39:45 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.218.82.151 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: wbnws01.ne.mediaone.net 950189985 24.218.82.151 (Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:39:45 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:39:45 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23114 In article <20000209220447.25723.00002304@ng-ff1.aol.com>, jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) wrote: > In order not to starve, the bees need to be able to warm up enough to move > to the honey in a cold snap like our recent one (I am in Eastern > Massachusetts). > If you paint the brood chamber boxes a dark color, they absorb a little more > heat from the sun on cold winter days, increasing the likelihood of bees moving > to the food. I painted mine a sort of dark brown color. > I painted my supers white however, because in the summer I want as little > heat retention as possible. > What color are your hives painted? The hive bodies are painted white. They are on two cement blocks, which are about 4 inches in the ground. The ground is slightly inclined facing toward the south. I was also concerned about the summer heat, which is why I used white paint. Even on our hottest days this summer, they seemed to cope well. Cheers Steve Article 23115 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: FW: Varroa Test Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:29:19 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 20 Message-ID: <8821nc$l77$1@news1.Radix.Net> References: <87sk20$lp$2@news1.Radix.Net> NNTP-Posting-Host: p16.a4.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23115 "Jason Wilson" wrote: >Not trying to start a fight but....... > Where I live we had numerous days of 104 -106 degree weather. >If they die at 104 why did I still have mites? Because the bees have A/C! They won't let the cluster or brood nest get above 35 degrees centigrade. Greg the beekeep // Bee Just & Just Bee! =8{ })))- Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA \\ www.radix.net\~honeybs Article 23116 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!telocity-west!TELOCITY!remarQ73!remarQ.com!supernews.com!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "C.K." Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.fruit,alt.agriculture.misc,alt.sustainable.agriculture,sci.agriculture,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.fruit,alt.agriculture.technology Subject: Re: Vibrational Agriculture Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 23:03:03 GMT Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 5 Message-ID: References: <8vji4.8502$3b6.38943@ozemail.com.au> <3889EE9F.41F9DE9A@cyclewise.com> <86ddal$rtg@titan.oit.unc.edu> Reply-To: nitetran@operamail.com X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset = US-ASCII X-Newsreader: News Rover 5.3.1 (http://www.NewsRover.com) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu alt.agriculture.fruit:9853 alt.agriculture.misc:11692 alt.sustainable.agriculture:23197 sci.agriculture:40541 sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23116 sci.agriculture.fruit:3381 alt.agriculture.technology:506 Hummm...a reply can appear on one server carrying sci.agriculture.beekeeping, but not another...and they say there is no tampering with usenet... C.K. Article 23117 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Larvin 3.2 & bees Lines: 26 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 12 Feb 2000 00:45:00 GMT References: <20000211135437.19010.00000116@nso-co.aol.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000211194500.27087.00002910@ng-fm1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23117 Bob Pursley wrote: <> Actually, I have no interest in the corn. This farmer cultivates pumpkin there too. Actually, a variety of crops are cultivated around this area, but the site is nearly adjacent to a river. And around it grows dense stands of purple loosestrife. I have developed quite a taste for loosestrife honey, and everybody I've given samples or sold it to says they want more. I think the market I'm reaching is bored with clover honey. Anything that tastes different from clover honey seems exotic and upscale to them. There are sites nearby that I am looking into that are neither cultivated nor sprayed, but I'm not sure if it might not be a better idea to have my bee's in the farmer's fields. That way, he will be aware of the physical presence of bees in the vicenity (out of sight is out of mind), and be motivated and reminded to alter his methods to ensure minimum harm to the bees. Paradoxally, by keeping my bees nearer to the source of the pesticide, I am able to exert more control over its use and better protect the bees. On the other hand, all the studies I've seen of bee foraging habits indicate that their pattern is haphazard at best. If the hives are a little ways upriver, the bees may choose to forage exclusively in another direction, and never go near the sprayed fields. Anyway, I'm still trying to figure out what's best here... Article 23118 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "LWakefield" Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.fruit,alt.agriculture.misc,alt.sustainable.agriculture,sci.agriculture,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.fruit,alt.agriculture.technology References: <8vji4.8502$3b6.38943@ozemail.com.au> <3889EE9F.41F9DE9A@cyclewise.com> <86ddal$rtg@titan.oit.unc.edu> Subject: Re: Vibrational Agriculture Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 06:54:27 -0500 Lines: 13 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 NNTP-Posting-Host: max337.mix-net.net Message-ID: <38a3f603@news.mix-net.net> X-Trace: 11 Feb 2000 06:44:03 -0500, max337.mix-net.net Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!pullfeed!news.mix-net.net!max337.mix-net.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu alt.agriculture.fruit:9856 alt.agriculture.misc:11693 alt.sustainable.agriculture:23198 sci.agriculture:40546 sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23118 sci.agriculture.fruit:3384 alt.agriculture.technology:507 C.K. wrote in message news:sa3sh0qf53n47@corp.supernews.com... > Hummm...a reply can appear on one server carrying > sci.agriculture.beekeeping, but not another...and > they say there is no tampering with usenet... > > C.K. And I am trailing the pack here still trying to figure out exactly what vibrational agriculture is- is it from the humming of the bees, or what... Article 23119 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!nntp.newsfirst.net!dingus.crosslink.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A4831B.AA8D254F@crosslink.net> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 21:46:03 +0000 From: "L.E.G." Reply-To: gmt@crosslink.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Zero Varroa Count Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Organization: CrossLink Internet Services 1-888-4-CROSSLINK Cache-Post-Path: pizza.crosslink.net!unknown@dyn18.c5200-2.king-george.246.crosslink.net X-Cache: nntpcache 2.3.3 (see http://www.nntpcache.org/) Lines: 18 NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.246.124.14 X-Trace: dingus.crosslink.net 950323082 10703 206.246.124.14 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23119 Hello Group!! Here is a bit of info. for the group to chew on... This past week was a good warmup here in the Northern Neck of Virginia.So I took the time to inspect hives and insert "Checkmite Strips". I used checkmite last fall and got 28 count varroa on stickyboard. The previous mite killer was apistan. This time the stickyboard had nothing after 24hrs. so I replaced it for another 24hrs.,still nothing!! I really dont know what to think about this.The clusters are very large(almost the entire top box is full) and the stores are plenty. The big question is, Is it possible to wipe out varroa in an isolated apiary??? I also gave them some candy for kicks, mainly because it is so warm or should I say warmer than it was. Honeybs: I think you are right "EARLY SPRING" thanks folks L.E.G. Article 23120 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!europa.netcrusader.net!206.132.58.120!gw22.nn.bcandid.com!hub12.nn.bcandid.com!tw11.nn.bcandid.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Zero Varroa Count Message-ID: References: <38A4831B.AA8D254F@crosslink.net> Organization: All X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.20 Lines: 6 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.100.16.37 X-Trace: tw11.nn.bcandid.com 950328423 216.100.16.37 (Fri, 11 Feb 2000 21:07:03 MST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 21:07:03 MST Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 04:07:03 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23120 In article <38A4831B.AA8D254F@crosslink.net>, gmt@crosslink.net says... > I also gave them > some candy for kicks, > Was it peppermint candy? Article 23121 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Lines: 25 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 12 Feb 2000 04:59:04 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Message-ID: <20000211235904.01138.00000347@ng-cb1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23121 Steve wrote: <> There was a gentleman who used to post on this group by the name of Jack Griffes who had a very cogent and persuasive theory on winter dead outs and varroa. He has a web site but I no longer have the url. The idea is simple: Scientists have proven that bees which mature with a varroa mite in their cell have a reduced lifespan and ability to feed brood. So if you need a bee to live six months to survive the winter and varroa has shortened your bees' lifespans to four months ≈ or damaged the brood food glands of the bees nursing them ≈ then the overwinterers will start dying en masse at exactly the point when they are most needed to started rearing the new bees that will carry the hive through to spring. His thought was that if you treat for varroa after August 15, it's as bad as leaving the hive untreated because by then, the damage is done as far as the overwintering bees are concerned. Since you didn't start treatment until Sept. 10th, it could be the bees you took into the winter were already doomed by the ravages of varroa. I took Griffes' advice, pulled supers, and started treating prior to August 15th (around August 9th), and I haven't had any of the mysterious winter dead outs that have been described here. However, my tale is anecdotal, not scientific, and lacks control colonies, so take it for what it's worth. Article 23122 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!titan.oit.unc.edu!usenet From: adamf@metalab.unc.edu (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.fruit,alt.agriculture.misc,alt.sustainable.agriculture,sci.agriculture,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.fruit,alt.agriculture.technology Subject: Re: Vibrational Agriculture Date: 12 Feb 2000 06:49:37 -0500 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 23 Message-ID: <883hch$5cn@titan.oit.unc.edu> References: <8vji4.8502$3b6.38943@ozemail.com.au> <86ddal$rtg@titan.oit.unc.edu> <38a3f603@news.mix-net.net> Reply-To: adamf@metalab.unc.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: titan.oit.unc.edu X-Trace: news2.isis.unc.edu 950356178 12617 152.2.22.14 (12 Feb 2000 11:49:38 GMT) X-Complaints-To: usenet@news2.isis.unc.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 12 Feb 2000 11:49:38 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu alt.agriculture.fruit:9859 alt.agriculture.misc:11696 alt.sustainable.agriculture:23201 sci.agriculture:40556 sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23122 sci.agriculture.fruit:3386 alt.agriculture.technology:509 In article <38a3f603@news.mix-net.net>, LWakefield wrote: > >C.K. wrote in message >news:sa3sh0qf53n47@corp.supernews.com... >> Hummm...a reply can appear on one server carrying >> sci.agriculture.beekeeping, but not another...and >> they say there is no tampering with usenet... >> >> C.K. > >And I am trailing the pack here still trying to figure out exactly what >vibrational agriculture is- is it from the humming of the bees, or what... Hi. http://metalab.unc.edu/bees search for vibrational Adam -- ___________________________________________________________________________ Adam Finkelstein Internet Apiculture and Beekeeping Archive adamf@metalab.unc.edu http://metalab.unc.edu/bees Article 23123 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!ptdnetP!ptdnetS!newsgate.ptd.net!nnrp1.ptd.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Royal W. Draper" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Bees, Bee Supplies, Used Equipment and more Lines: 14 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 16:08:00 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.186.180.24 X-Complaints-To: abuse@ptd.net X-Trace: nnrp1.ptd.net 950371680 204.186.180.24 (Sat, 12 Feb 2000 11:08:00 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 11:08:00 EST Organization: PenTeleData http://www.ptd.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23123 Check out our webpage for used equipment and beekeeping related items. You may want to bookmark our site as new items are always coming in. The following link will take you directly to the bee supply part of our site, you will need to hit the home button to get the normal frames view. http://www.draperbee.com/beesupplies/supplies.htm Thank You! Royal W. Draper Draper's Super Bee Apiaries, Inc. 800-233-4273 Article 23124 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.cwix.com!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.vt.edu!not-for-mail From: jrlong@vt.edu (Jerome R. Long) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Provide a Water Source...how? Date: 12 Feb 2000 17:39:11 GMT Organization: Virginia Tech Lines: 8 Message-ID: <8845rv$si8$2@solaris.cc.vt.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: t80ad3758.async.vt.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset=US-ASCII X-Trace: solaris.cc.vt.edu 950377151 29256 128.173.55.88 (12 Feb 2000 17:39:11 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@vt.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 12 Feb 2000 17:39:11 GMT X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.99.8 (x86 32bit) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23124 Over and over one sees the admonition to provide a water source. It isn't so easy if your hive(s) are located some distance from water sources. How should one best do it, especially if one isn't at the hive(s) every day? I know you just drown bees if you put out a bucket of water. I have tried putting a large celulose sponge in a large potted plant dish of water. It doesn't take long for the green algae to take over. What is the best way to supply a successful low maintenance water supply that is safe for the bees? Article 23125 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A5B33F.B9AD01FE@twcny.rr.com> From: JGinNY X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill References: <87t0ke$7e4m$1@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 49 Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 19:17:26 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.105 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 950383046 24.92.236.105 (Sat, 12 Feb 2000 14:17:26 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 14:17:26 EST Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23125 busybee wrote: > It sounds like a fluvalinate resistance or that the strips were not in place > in time. < ... In this case, I would still suspect acarine as the major culprit. When tracheal mites first arrived and decimated so many colonies around here, a very common symptom was the loose and scattered appearance of the cluster -- like it had "exploded." Also, the large abundance of unused winter stores still remaining in the combs. From the description given, starvation of the colony was quite unlikely, IMO. Even if there had been a spell of extreme cold. There were plenty of stores right above their heads, so there was no lateral shift required for the cluster to access food. However, if the cluster was too small, due to dwindling caused by either of the mites, it might not have had enough bees left to maintain the temperature needed for survival. (Q: Steve -- about how many combs were the masses of dead bees covering?) Having had the hive painted a dark color certainly wouldn't have made any considerable difference. When it is really cold, the amount of heat absorbed by a dark-painted hive can do very little to change the interior temp. Besides, it would have to be in full sun anyway; on overcast days or at night the color of the hive would be of no consequence. The outer layers of bees in a winter cluster serve as its own insulation, often some distance away from the actual walls of the hive body, and buffered by intervening combs. Varroa? It may have contributed (alone or with t. m.), by causing some marked dwindling even before the worst of winter arrived. The timing of the Apistan treatments has been brought up, with suggestions that they were too late. It might have made a difference, _but_ then again, a lot of northeastern beekeepers (incl. yours truly) still don't treat for varroa until much later -- after the close of the goldenrod flow (allowing for a fall crop). Regardless, that hasn't resulted in the mass demise of all those colonies. Hardly. Anyway, it sounds as if the colony was well cared for, prepared and provisioned. My l.d.d. would be tracheal mites, given the conditions described, but varroa and viruses are certainly not out of the question. In any case, very frustrating to lose a starter colony so soon(!), but chances are, the new bees installed to replace them will be much less susceptible and won't have the same fate next time around. (...hopefully!) Article 23126 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!gw12.bcandid.com.MISMATCH!gw22.nn.bcandid.com!hub12.nn.bcandid.com!tw11.nn.bcandid.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Provide a Water Source...how? Message-ID: References: <8845rv$si8$2@solaris.cc.vt.edu> Organization: All X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.20 Lines: 20 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.100.16.35 X-Trace: tw11.nn.bcandid.com 950383837 216.100.16.35 (Sat, 12 Feb 2000 12:30:37 MST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 12:30:37 MST Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 19:30:37 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23126 Tom Glenn uses water gardens. These are containers such as 1/2 of an oak barrel in which water plants are planted. I put sand in a container and kept it wet with my drip irrigation system but the bees ignor it. They like the box where my sprinkler valves are located where there are many moist surfaces. Next I may try gravel kept wet by the irrigation. I have tried wooden chips floating in a bucket, but they ignored that too. In article <8845rv$si8$2@solaris.cc.vt.edu>, jrlong@vt.edu says... > Over and over one sees the admonition to provide a water source. It isn't so > easy if your hive(s) are located some distance from water sources. How should > one best do it, especially if one isn't at the hive(s) every day? I know you > just drown bees if you put out a bucket of water. I have tried putting a large > celulose sponge in a large potted plant dish of water. It doesn't take long > for the green algae to take over. What is the best way to supply a successful > low maintenance water supply that is safe for the bees? > > Article 23127 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <20000211235904.01138.00000347@ng-cb1.aol.com> Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Lines: 58 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 21:48:00 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.49.83 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 950392080 12.72.49.83 (Sat, 12 Feb 2000 21:48:00 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 21:48:00 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23127 Unfortunately, Jack's Tripod links no longer work so he may have changed ISPs. Try the new search of the archives at http://metalab.unc.edu/bees If you do find his treatment timing tips, remember that absolute dates are not always real useful because of geographic and racial differences. If I treated in August, I wouldn't have a crop and have determined that Oct 1 is generally early enough. But Jack lives in MI and I am in CA. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "JMitc1014" wrote in message news:20000211235904.01138.00000347@ng-cb1.aol.com... > Steve wrote: > > < would have been Sept 10 (I kept notes). >> > > There was a gentleman who used to post on this group by the name of Jack > Griffes who had a very cogent and persuasive theory on winter dead outs and > varroa. He has a web site but I no longer have the url. > The idea is simple: Scientists have proven that bees which mature with a > varroa mite in their cell have a reduced lifespan and ability to feed brood. So > if you need a bee to live six months to survive the winter and varroa has > shortened your bees' lifespans to four months - or damaged the brood food > glands of the bees nursing them - then the overwinterers will start dying en > masse at exactly the point when they are most needed to started rearing the new > bees that will carry the hive through to spring. > His thought was that if you treat for varroa after August 15, it's as bad as > leaving the hive untreated because by then, the damage is done as far as the > overwintering bees are concerned. > Since you didn't start treatment until Sept. 10th, it could be the bees you > took into the winter were already doomed by the ravages of varroa. > I took Griffes' advice, pulled supers, and started treating prior to August > 15th (around August 9th), and I haven't had any of the mysterious winter dead > outs that have been described here. > However, my tale is anecdotal, not scientific, and lacks control colonies, > so take it for what it's worth. Article 23128 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8845rv$si8$2@solaris.cc.vt.edu> Subject: Re: Provide a Water Source...how? Lines: 33 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 21:48:04 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.49.83 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 950392084 12.72.49.83 (Sat, 12 Feb 2000 21:48:04 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 21:48:04 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23128 Try a gallon container inverted over a pan of sand. The sand should stay damp and the water held back by vacuum. I don't see any reason why this method wouldn't work with a 2 or even 5 gallon bucket if you make infrequent visits or live in an area of high evaporation. The initial tipping of a 5 gallon bucket may take some practice. As far as safe for bees, they actually seem to prefer what we would consider gross. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "Jerome R. Long" wrote in message news:8845rv$si8$2@solaris.cc.vt.edu... > Over and over one sees the admonition to provide a water source. It isn't so > easy if your hive(s) are located some distance from water sources. How should > one best do it, especially if one isn't at the hive(s) every day? I know you > just drown bees if you put out a bucket of water. I have tried putting a large > celulose sponge in a large potted plant dish of water. It doesn't take long > for the green algae to take over. What is the best way to supply a successful > low maintenance water supply that is safe for the bees? > Article 23129 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <38A4831B.AA8D254F@crosslink.net> Subject: Re: Zero Varroa Count Lines: 34 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 21:48:02 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.49.83 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 950392082 12.72.49.83 (Sat, 12 Feb 2000 21:48:02 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 21:48:02 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23129 Sounds like the fall treatment knocked them down. If your queen shut down for the winter and there has been little or no brood, it wouldn't surprise me that you are mite-free for now. But they will be back. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "L.E.G." wrote in message news:38A4831B.AA8D254F@crosslink.net... > Hello Group!! > Here is a bit of info. for the group to chew on... This past week was a > good warmup here in the Northern Neck of Virginia.So I took the time to > inspect hives and insert "Checkmite Strips". I used checkmite last fall > and got 28 count varroa on stickyboard. The previous mite killer was > apistan. This time the stickyboard had nothing after 24hrs. so I > replaced it for another 24hrs.,still nothing!! I really dont know what > to think about this.The clusters are very large(almost the entire top > box is full) and the stores are plenty. The big question is, Is it > possible to wipe out varroa in an isolated apiary??? I also gave them > some candy for kicks, mainly because it is so warm or should I say > warmer than it was. > > Honeybs: I think you are right "EARLY SPRING" > > thanks folks > L.E.G. > Article 23130 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!newsfeed.enteract.com!news.enteract.com!not-for-mail From: Barry Birkey Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Zero Varroa Count Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 22:33:04 -0600 Organization: EnterAct L.L.C. Turbo-Elite News Server Lines: 16 Message-ID: References: <38A4831B.AA8D254F@crosslink.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.80.34.26 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.0 (1513) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23130 Not an unusual event in my area. One mite treatment in the fall is all I do and I don't ever start seeing Varroa until middle summer. Barry -- www.beesource.com www.bee-l.com > inspect hives and insert "Checkmite Strips". I used checkmite last fall > and got 28 count varroa on stickyboard. The previous mite killer was > apistan. This time the stickyboard had nothing after 24hrs. so I > replaced it for another 24hrs.,still nothing!! I really dont know what > to think about this.The clusters are very large(almost the entire top Article 23131 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Lines: 27 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Feb 2000 05:37:39 GMT References: <38A5B33F.B9AD01FE@twcny.rr.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Message-ID: <20000213003739.10195.00000505@ng-cu1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23131 JGinNY wrote: <> As surely as the snow and ice have melted off my black driveway and my black roof, dark-colored hive walls will absorb and retain heat. Maybe not much, but maybe enough to allow movement to the food. <> The natural condition of the eastern United States is deciduous forest. Meadows and clearings are also mostly populated with deciduous plants. Whatever grows around your hives in the summer loses its leaves come winter ≈ along with whatever shade it threw on your hives. Consequently, the hives get more sun exposure in the winter. Sure, bees won't be able to move much at night, but the idea is that they will have repositioned themselves during the day to make it through the night. Direct sunlight is intermittent, not constant, due to overcast days. So what? Our best management techniques only increase the odds of colony survival. Very few of our practices (if any) guarantee success. In all things agricultural, there's no accounting for the weather. However, if your apiary gets sun all day in the summer (I try to find sites with afternoon shade ≈ I'm expanding my operation.), maybe dark colors aren't the choice for you. You may have to experiment a little. <<...and buffered by intervening combs.>> If combs were a great obstacle to heat, clustering on them would be inefficient. Article 23132 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: vasak@aol.com (Vasak) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: FW: Varroa Test Lines: 20 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Feb 2000 13:47:38 GMT References: <8821nc$l77$1@news1.Radix.Net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000213084738.05439.00001137@ng-bg1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23132 Jason >>If they die at 104 why did I still have mites? > Greg >Because the bees have A/C! They won't let the cluster or brood nest get above 35 degrees centigrade. > My first reaction was, "Well how did mites get on the bees in the first place? The mites outside the hive should have already been dead at those temperatures." But then I realized that just because the outside temperature is 104 to 106 does not mean that it is that hot everywhere. Mites can probably find cooler places to wait for a piggy-back ride back to the hive. And of course on the way back the air blowing by would keep them cooler even though they are in direct sunlight. In other words mites are tough and persistent. :-) Herb Article 23133 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive-killer Mockingbird? Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 22:05:03 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 28 Message-ID: <87vbtm$t4d$1@news1.Radix.Net> References: <38A2F712.65CB177F@publicwelfare.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: p18.a3.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23133 Rebecca Davis wrote: >Would a hungry mockingbird be enough to do in a healthy hive? When I >was home at Christmas time (we had a warm spell, in the 50s and 60s) I >noticed that a mockingbird was frequently on the hive. Took me a few >hours, but I finally realized that he was up to no good, and watched him >hunting bees. I think he just picked them off as they emerged or >returned from their cleansing flights. I quickly made a scarecrow out of >shiny ribbons and he disappeared after that, but the hive was dead >within a week or two. The hive was a little light on bees going into >the winter, but healthy and with good stores. Maybe the mockingbird >just picked off the bees until their numbers were too low to sustain a >cluster. Anyone else have trouble with birds? I would doubt that one little bird could do any significant damage. It takes a skunk awhile to do in a hive and he has a much bigger appetite. Greg the beekeep // Bee Just & Just Bee! =8{ })))- Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA \\ www.radix.net\~honeybs Article 23134 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!colt.net!news-lond.gip.net!news.gsl.net!gip.net!netnews.globalip.ch!news.vtx.ch!not-for-mail From: "Martin-Paul Broennimann" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bee Keeping in your garden Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 23:34:32 +0100 Organization: VTX Services SA Lines: 37 Message-ID: <87veef$ku57@news.vtx.ch> References: <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: ge-dial-6-p41.vtx.ch X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23134 I'd say it is not the size of the garden which determines the number of hives you can have. It has more to do with the surroundings, if there is a good flying opening etc, keeping in mind that the hives are best off facing east. And of course if there are no sensitive areas or people in the general flying angle. Don't forget the shelter from wind and the availablility of water. Diane Waller a Иcrit dans le message : 87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net... > Hello, > > Can I ask for the readers views on keeping bees in your garden, one possibly > two hives. Needless to say there seem to be two schools of thought here, one > saying "Yes, no problem." and the other saying "No." > > Here in England we tend to have fairly small gardens but just how small does > a garden have to be before a hive would be impractical ? Our garden is > roughly 25 feet by 100 feet with neighbours either side. One neighbour has a > sun house at the bottom of the garden which they do use during the summer > months. > > It would be interesting to hear peoples comments on the viability of a hive > in the garden... > > Many thanks... > > -- > Diane > > Article 23135 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!EU.net!newsfeed.esat.net!diablo.theplanet.net!remarQ-uK!supernews.com!remarQ.com!rQdQ!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: Tobi Elmore Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Hive is dead Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 18:35:19 -0500 Organization: Arsenal Technical High School Lines: 7 Message-ID: <38A34B36.E589B7DF@indy.net> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23135 It warmed up to the 50's in Indianapolis today so we went out to the hives to check on them. We now have one hive instead of two. Our italian hive went into winter with a small cluster. It looks like they froze to death. We taped the hive up until a nice warm non dreary day. Tobi Article 23136 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!news-was.dfn.de!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "princeton" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive-killer Mockingbird? Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 00:12:37 -0000 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 32 Message-ID: <87vkao$sn5$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <38A2F712.65CB177F@publicwelfare.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-225.hydrogen.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news8.svr.pol.co.uk 950228119 29413 62.136.0.225 (11 Feb 2000 00:15:20 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 11 Feb 2000 00:15:20 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23136 Hi Rebecca, I live in the UK and due to the flourishing population of Robins, Wrens and other insect eating I have to put guards in front of the hives. Now I have a woodpecker too so I am now making some mesh cages to fit round the whole hives. Four winters ago a hive that had gone into winter quite strong was made non-viable by a single pair of robins who took turns to sit on the flight board to pick off all emerging bees. The mesh I am using is called chicken wire here and is made of calvanised wire made up into a honeycomb mesh with holes about 3cm across. I mounted the wire on simple frames and just leant them against the hive front. Now it will form a box over three hives to keep off the woodpecker too. It will solve your problem. best Wishes Freddie Cooke. Rebecca Davis wrote in message news:38A2F712.65CB177F@publicwelfare.org... > Would a hungry mockingbird be enough to do in a healthy hive? When I > was home at Christmas time (we had a warm spell, in the 50s and 60s) I > noticed that a mockingbird was frequently on the hive. Took me a few > hours, but I finally realized that he was up to no good, and watched him > hunting bees. I think he just picked them off as they emerged or > returned from their cleansing flights. I quickly made a scarecrow out of > shiny ribbons and he disappeared after that, but the hive was dead > within a week or two. The hive was a little light on bees going into > the winter, but healthy and with good stores. Maybe the mockingbird > just picked off the bees until their numbers were too low to sustain a > cluster. Anyone else have trouble with birds? > Article 23137 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "princeton" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: NewBee Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 01:20:42 -0000 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 102 Message-ID: <87voac$ukb$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <86gek7$1d6$3@nw003t.infi.net> <86hdgv$74$1@news1.Radix.Net> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-225.hydrogen.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news8.svr.pol.co.uk 950232204 31371 62.136.0.225 (11 Feb 2000 01:23:24 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 11 Feb 2000 01:23:24 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23137 Hi Kevin and family, Most of your questions can be answered by going to a few sites on the net but start with these and just link on from there. Some of them are a UK in origin but they also provide links to other countries' sites. http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Beekeeping/weblinks.htm http://www.beemaster.com/honeybee/beehome.htm http://www.lib.ox.ac.uk/internet/news/faq/archive/beekeeping-faq.html http://www.angus.co.uk/bibba/ http://www.cardiff.ac.uk/ibra/index.html http://www.bbka.demon.co.uk/index.htm http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Cliffs/1028/beekeeping/apiary/index.htm I would also recommend Ted Hooper' and Roger Morse's Encyclopaedia of Beekeeping ISBN 0 7137 1624 X Published in 1985 by Blandford Press. Almost everything you will ever need to know in one source and you can at least read it in bed. More important than anything make contact with any beekeepers in your locality, especially any associations or clubs. There is nothing better than knowledgeable friends to take you through the basics and then the not so basics. They, I hope, will also let you have or buy your first bees which in preference should be a local strain. I would be very wary of imports because of acclimatisation problems. As well as all the obvious advantages about beekeeping, you know the honey, wax and all the fun, the biology of bees is very fascinating and will provide you with a great deal of interest and insight into the natural world. Take it slow and easy the first year and just have a have a really good time with all the new friends you will make. Best wishes, Freddie Cooke. Wolverhampton. UK. honeybs wrote in message news:86hdgv$74$1@news1.Radix.Net... > "Shearer Family" wrote: > > >Friends: > > >As a rookie hoping to start my first year of beekeeping this year (2000) I > >have many questions. > > >Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. > > >1. What are pros / cons of buying bees ? (versus attempting to capture a > >swarm) > > >2. What is difference between Itialian / Carolian / Buckfast ? (Or any > >others ?) > > >3. Are there any precautions / procedures or practices I should observe > >in setting up my first hive in prepartion for reciept of bees ? > > >4. What are considerations for hive locations ? > > >5. How do I locate reputable bee suppliers ? > > >6. Any suggestions on log / record keeping ? > > >7. Any good software I should look into ? > > >8. Which magazines / publications are good for a rookie ? > > >9. Any suggestions on how to help my children (ages 5 - 11) to better > >participate, understand and enjoy. > > >10. Any other suggestions or ideas to help me enjoy this awesome > >activity. > > >Thanks in advance. > > >Kev 01/23/2000 20:35 > > >Kevin Shearer > > >kevmarie@roanoke.infi.net > >Troutville, VA 24175 > >37╟ 21' 32" N > >79╟ 50' 45" W > > I don't know for sure but I would be willing to bet that > there is a big building in your town full of books and video > tapes called a library. That would be a good place to start > as most of your questions will be answered with a "little" > effort on your part. To expect someone to write a book here > is a little ridiculous. > > Greg the beekeep > > > > > // Bee Just & Just Bee! > =8{ })))- Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA > \\ www.radix.net\~honeybs > > > Article 23138 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!EU.net!newsfeed.esat.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "princeton" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Can we block this stuff in future? Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 01:24:08 -0000 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 49 Message-ID: <87vogq$un2$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <23010013.3133@nntp.8m.com> <20000123200139.26200.00000234@nso-ci.aol.com> <949266236.25592.0.nnrp-06.9e9850d5@news.demon.co.uk> <8Pym4.20$_u6.234458148@news.interact.net.au> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-225.hydrogen.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news8.svr.pol.co.uk 950232410 31458 62.136.0.225 (11 Feb 2000 01:26:50 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 11 Feb 2000 01:26:50 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23138 Is there some way we can block this kind of contact or at least get rid of it a soon as its spotted? I think there is every chance kids will be referred here and we don't want them to have to find this kind of message here. Barry Metz wrote in message news:8Pym4.20$_u6.234458148@news.interact.net.au... > Doesn't he know that the subject females (Queens) in this forum are at their > most photogenic at about 3-5 days and I've never heard of one living as long > as 14 years > > -- > Barry Metz > Brian Clark wrote in message > news:949266236.25592.0.nnrp-06.9e9850d5@news.demon.co.uk... > > > > what the hell use is it looking here ! > > > > > > a derrrr! > > > > Bob Pursley wrote in message > > <20000123200139.26200.00000234@nso-ci.aol.com>... > > >In article <23010013.3133@nntp.8m.com>, alt.make.money.fast@nntp.8m.com > > writes: > > > > > >> > > >>I am looking for young models (prefer early teen 14-16 year old female) > > for > > >>nude and semi-nude photography. This is a great way for me to update my > > >>portfolio, and also a great way for you to get a free portfolio, too! > This > > >>could lead to employment in the Adult XXX entertainment business. What a > > >>great way to make money! > > >> > > > > > > > > > Somebody sic the feds on this guy. Quickly. > > > > > > > > > Article 23139 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!remarQ70!remarQ.com!supernews.com!remarQ69!WReNclone!WReNphoon4.POSTED!WReN!not-for-mail X-Originating-Host: 209.74.174.86 Organization: http://www.remarq.com: The World's Usenet/Discussions Start Here Subject: Re: NewBee Lines: 20 From: dave Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Message-ID: <07505418.908720a3@usw-ex0102-013.remarq.com> References: <86gek7$1d6$3@nw003t.infi.net> <86hdgv$74$1@news1.Radix.Net> <87voac$ukb$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> Bytes: 736 X-Wren-Trace: eN/60tPKjceMm8rB34z+1czI35TVyZiJiIOJkoGfiM6HjdGGhw== Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 20:05:13 -0800 NNTP-Posting-Host: 10.0.2.13 X-Complaints-To: wrenabuse@remarq.com X-Trace: WReNphoon4 950241836 10.0.2.13 (Thu, 10 Feb 2000 20:03:56 PST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 20:03:56 PST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23139 Hey Kevin, Since Richard Bonney just WON'T plus his books I'm gonna. I went to the library here and checked out Richard's "Hive Management". Read it over a two week period and as a novice found it extremly helpful. Now for the part that Richard is really going to like.... Since I took it back to the library I miss it. I'm going to have to buy the darn thing for a reference. It's a very good book. He's got another one also but I haven't read it. Try amazon.com or one of the other booksellers. I bet they have it.. Above all, don't lose your enthusiasim... Dave * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet's Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free! Article 23140 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newshub.northeast.verio.net!verio!newsfeed.gamma.ru!Gamma.RU!news1.relcom.ru!news.intercom.ru!newsserv From: "Igor" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: We offer: apitoxin, bee venom (see article) Date: 11 Feb 2000 11:46:16 +0300 Organization: personal_person Lines: 18 Sender: newsserv@news.intercom.ru Distribution: world Message-ID: References: Reply-To: av@rada1.saratov.su NNTP-Posting-Host: news.intercom.ru Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Return-Path: rada1!rada1.saratov.su!av@access.intercom.ru Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23140 Pharmaceutical company offers on a regular basis: Apitoxin, Dry bee venom (initial lot, 100g) Cetificate 1. Appearance: light yellow, straw-colored; 2. Shrinkage (weight decrease) - 2.4% at desiccation; 3. Insoluble impurities - 2.5% 4. Authenticity (haemolysis time) 440s 5. General ashes - 3.2% 6. Phosphalybasis activity - a2 160ms Quantities are unlimited. Contact us: av@rada1.saratov.su Article 23141 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newshub.northeast.verio.net!verio!netnews.com!newspeer1.nac.net!newsfeed.wirehub.nl!bullseye.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive-killer Mockingbird? Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 00:28:19 +0000 Message-ID: References: <38A2F712.65CB177F@publicwelfare.org> <20000210143725.09817.00000236@nso-bg.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 950266018 nnrp-09:26024 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 19 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23141 In article <20000210143725.09817.00000236@nso-bg.aol.com>, Bob Pursley writes >In article <38A2F712.65CB177F@publicwelfare.org>, Rebecca Davis > writes: >>Anyone else have trouble with birds? >Barn Swallows will catch bees in the air two years ago I was convinced that swallows were not only getting workers or drones but also queens!! That year the 2 became 12 with 3 lots of eggs! A colleague reported the same. In apiaries where swallows were not obviously present matings went well. In one other, where there were a lot of swallows, mating was very poor and a great disappointment. I cannot let myself stop them coming back to nest in the garage (with a hole made for them in the door) and we had to move the bees anyway because both my four year old and my wife were stung. So, I am hopeful I have removed part of the problem. -- James Kilty Article 23142 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!newsfeed01.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!newsrouter.chello.at!newsfeed03.univie.ac.at!news.highway.telekom.at!newsreader.vienna.highway.telekom.at!not-for-mail From: "Franz Gindl" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Varroa - treatment Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 15:39:10 +0100 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.71.1712.3 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.71.1712.3 Lines: 4 Message-ID: <38a41f8b$0$77128@SSP1NO17.highway.telekom.at> NNTP-Posting-Host: 195.3.73.201 X-Trace: newsreader.vienna.highway.telekom.at 950280075 77128 195.3.73.201 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23142 VGhlcmUgc2hvdWxkIGJlIGEgdmFycm9hLXRyZWF0bWVudCBpbiBlYXN0ZXJuIEV1cm9wZSB3aXRo IHNvIGNhbGxlZCAgIkFtaXRyYXoiLg0KRG9lcyBzb21ib2R5IGhhdmUgZXhwZXJpZW5jZSBieSB0 aGlzICBtZWRpY2luZT8gDQoNCkZyYW56DQoNCm1haWx0bzogYmVla2VlcGVyQGFvbi5hdA0KDQo= Article 23143 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!skynet.be!newspeer.clara.net!news.clara.net!colt.net!easynet-uk!easynet.net!peer1.news.dircon.net!peer2.news.dircon.net!reader.news.dircon.net!not-for-mail From: steven.turner@zbee.com (Steven Turner) To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Lectures in London and kent Message-ID: <950459129@zbee.com> Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 16:25:29 +0000 Distribution: world Organization: ZbeeNet computer networking for beekeepers X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 194.112.43.78 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 194.112.32.19 Lines: 25 NNTP-Posting-Host: newsread3.dircon.co.uk X-Trace: reader.news.dircon.net 950461808 28170 194.112.32.19 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23143 Forward message.......... These are a few items I have received in the last week. London Beekeepers Association. AGM On Tuesday 28th March at 6.30pm in the club room. The October Gallery, 24 Old Gloucester Street, W.C.1. Near Holborn Underground Station.Michael Badger will give a talk on his life-times experiences in beekeeping. Talk will start about 6.50pm 2UKP towards refreshments and hire of hall. Ashford Branch. Lecture at Wye college near Ashford on Friday 28th April at 7.30pm. Lecture being given by Mr Ian McLean. Subject Queen Rearing on the medium scale. Cost of admission 3UKP. Regards Barbara Hon Sec. --- STEVEN TURNER Beenet UK Host. http://www.kentbee.com/ Email: st@zbee.com ... Platinum Xpress, Wildcat 5, Mailtraq......What else! Article 23144 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!chnws02.mediaone.net!chnws05.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.44.7!wbnws01.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!schapin From: schapin@mindspring.com (Steve Chapin) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Message-ID: References: <87t0ke$7e4m$1@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net> <38A5B33F.B9AD01FE@twcny.rr.com> Organization: Chapin Consulting X-Newsreader: MT-NewsWatcher 2.4.4 Lines: 22 Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 18:24:49 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.218.82.151 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: wbnws01.ne.mediaone.net 950466289 24.218.82.151 (Sun, 13 Feb 2000 13:24:49 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 13:24:49 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23144 In article <38A5B33F.B9AD01FE@twcny.rr.com>, JGinNY wrote: > busybee wrote: (Q: Steve -- about how many combs were the masses of dead bees covering?) > About 3 Combs. In the discussion about when to put in the Apistan, it was noted that Mid - Aug. was a good time. Around here golden rod and purple loosestrife are out in full force. I added a good 1 1/2 supers of honey during this period. In had I left the supers on longer, I think I could have filled another one. I treated for tracheal mites with terramycin/crisco/sugar patties. I was also under the impression that the buckfast bees were more resistant to tracheal mites. Some of the local folks here have lost hives also, which I found out after the first post. The consensus here is that the extreme and prolonged cold snap we had was a major factor. Article 23145 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!chnws02.mediaone.net!chnws05.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.44.7!wbnws01.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!schapin From: schapin@mindspring.com (Steve Chapin) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Message-ID: References: <87t0ke$7e4m$1@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net> <38A5B33F.B9AD01FE@twcny.rr.com> Organization: Chapin Consulting X-Newsreader: MT-NewsWatcher 2.4.4 Lines: 22 Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 18:28:21 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.218.82.151 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: wbnws01.ne.mediaone.net 950466501 24.218.82.151 (Sun, 13 Feb 2000 13:28:21 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 13:28:21 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23145 In article <38A5B33F.B9AD01FE@twcny.rr.com>, JGinNY wrote: > busybee wrote: (Q: Steve -- about how many combs were the masses of dead bees covering?) > About 3 Combs. In the discussion about when to put in the Apistan, it was noted that Mid - Aug. was a good time. Around here golden rod and purple loosestrife are out in full force. I added a good 1 1/2 supers of honey during this period. In had I left the supers on longer, I think I could have filled another one. I treated for tracheal mites with terramycin/crisco/sugar patties. I was also under the impression that the buckfast bees were more resistant to tracheal mites. Some of the local folks here have lost hives also, which I found out after the first post. The consensus here is that the extreme and prolonged cold snap we had was a major factor. Article 23146 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Lines: 29 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Feb 2000 18:42:44 GMT References: <38A5B33F.B9AD01FE@twcny.rr.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000213134244.27088.00003505@ng-fm1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23146 JGinNY wrote: <> Not mass demise. The last statistics I heard bandied about were that winter kill averages were running 20 to 50% nationally (That is, one-fifth to one-half of a beekeeper's colonies die over winter for whatever reason). That figure is certainly higher than what it was pre-varroa. I missed the goldenrod and aster flow totally by putting my Apistan strips in early. That's the hard thing about Griffes' recommendation: If you treat early, you have to walk away from a honey flow. That may be survivable for a hobbyist like me, but commercial guys live and die (economically) by the harvest. I'm going to be my own devil's advocate here and bring up some other drawbacks: 1) I've seen recommendations more than a few times not to leave goldenrod and aster honey on the hive (which I did) for winter feed because it granulates quickly. Some say it causes bees to need more cleansing flights, too. On the other hand, I don't want quick granulating honey for myself, so what am I going to do with it? I'd rather my bees were eating granulated honey in February than granulated sugar that I put in to thwart starvation. 2) Due to the fact that we had a long warm fall, the season of varroa collapse for feral hives and poorly managed hives was twice as long. Since I put my strips in early, I had to put new ones in to last until the bees finally stopped flying. Doubling your treatment costs may be ok with a few hives, but again, for commercial guys and sideliners, that's prabably implausible. John Article 23147 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp.newsfirst.net!dingus.crosslink.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A6BAA8.CE49421D@crosslink.net> Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 14:07:36 +0000 From: "L.E.G." Reply-To: gmt@crosslink.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Zero Varroa Count References: <38A4831B.AA8D254F@crosslink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Organization: CrossLink Internet Services 1-888-4-CROSSLINK Cache-Post-Path: pizza.crosslink.net!unknown@dyn57.c5200-1.king-george.246.crosslink.net X-Cache: nntpcache 2.3.3 (see http://www.nntpcache.org/) Lines: 19 NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.246.124.14 X-Trace: dingus.crosslink.net 950468408 14512 206.246.124.14 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23147 James Kilty wrote: > In article <38A4831B.AA8D254F@crosslink.net>, L.E.G. > writes > >apistan. This time the stickyboard had nothing after 24hrs. so I > >replaced it for another 24hrs.,still nothing!! I really dont know what > >to think about this.The clusters are very large(almost the entire top > Don't forget that mites go straight into the early brood to reproduce. > Early testing should therefore miss all the varroa. Have you any sealed > brood? > -- > James Kilty Yes there is brood in all stages , just not that much, maybe 4 palm sized groups in center of cluster. It is still too cold for much more than that... Article 23148 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!pitt.edu!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!micro-heart-of-gold.mit.edu!newsswitch.lcs.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.nacamar.de!newsfeed.icl.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Zero Varroa Count Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 17:50:03 +0000 Message-ID: References: <38A4831B.AA8D254F@crosslink.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 950464511 nnrp-12:25337 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 10 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23148 In article <38A4831B.AA8D254F@crosslink.net>, L.E.G. writes >apistan. This time the stickyboard had nothing after 24hrs. so I >replaced it for another 24hrs.,still nothing!! I really dont know what >to think about this.The clusters are very large(almost the entire top Don't forget that mites go straight into the early brood to reproduce. Early testing should therefore miss all the varroa. Have you any sealed brood? -- James Kilty Article 23149 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!newspeer1.nac.net!news1.radix.net!saltmine.radix.net!not-for-mail From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Good News! Search for beekeeping information on the net Date: 12 Feb 2000 06:27:22 -0500 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 20 Message-ID: <883g2q$otf$1@saltmine.radix.net> Reply-To: adamf@metalab.unc.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: saltmine.radix.net Summary: New and improved search engine on metalab.unc.edu/bees for beekeeping and bee information Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23149 Hello. I've put up a new and improved search engine on the Internet Apiculture and Beekeeping page: http://metalab.unc.edu/bees You can search by keyword all the archived bee-l logs and sci.agriculture.beekeeping articles together. It actually works! The search turns up the archived weekly log file or monthly news article file. Then, using your web-browser, you search the page you've turned up with the same keyword. Try it! Please send me feedback, suggestions etc. Sincerely, Adam -- Adam Finkelstein adamf@radix.net http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 23150 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.vt.edu!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!newsfeed.tli.de!newsfeed01.sul.t-online.de!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "princeton" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Provide a Water Source...how? Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 01:42:42 -0000 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 29 Message-ID: <887mo1$1vt$1@news7.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <8845rv$si8$2@solaris.cc.vt.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-33.magnesium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news7.svr.pol.co.uk 950492737 2045 62.136.11.33 (14 Feb 2000 01:45:37 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 14 Feb 2000 01:45:37 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23150 Hi there Jerome, I had this problem a few years ago. My solution gave me about a weeks supply from a two gallon plastic can. get a plastic bowl or tray at least 4ins deep and fill it with stones then water. Take a 2 gallon plastic cannister, ( the sort you get engine oil is fine but make sure you have washed it out very well), filled with water and quickly upend it whilst inserting its neck in the bowl of water. As the water evapourates so the cannister will keep it topped up. The stones allow the bees to walk down to the edge to drink and also a means of escape the ones that simply fly into the water. Best wishes Freddie Jerome R. Long wrote in message news:8845rv$si8$2@solaris.cc.vt.edu... > Over and over one sees the admonition to provide a water source. It isn't so > easy if your hive(s) are located some distance from water sources. How should > one best do it, especially if one isn't at the hive(s) every day? I know you > just drown bees if you put out a bucket of water. I have tried putting a large > celulose sponge in a large potted plant dish of water. It doesn't take long > for the green algae to take over. What is the best way to supply a successful > low maintenance water supply that is safe for the bees? > Article 23151 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!nntp.flash.net!news.flash.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A76A98.AA2BE9BA@flash.net> From: Joe Esposito X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.08 [en] (Win16; I) MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Chicagoland beekeepers looking for a field? Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 13 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 02:39:59 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.215.20.239 X-Complaints-To: abuse@flash.net X-Trace: news.flash.net 950495999 216.215.20.239 (Sun, 13 Feb 2000 20:39:59 CST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 20:39:59 CST Organization: FlashNet Communications, http://www.flash.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23151 I have a six-acre clover field that I would allow beekeepers to place thier hives. It's approx one mile from the North Aurora auto mall. It's dedicated to Illinois Acres for Wildlife and it's surrounded by soybean, corn, and five to ten-acre ranches. There would be no charge of course, but I think my insurance carrier would want a signed release or something. And space is limited.What do I get out of it? A tax break. If anyone's interested or knows someone who might be, please e-mail me at the above address, as I don't usually read this group before the messages expire. Thanks in advance Joe Article 23152 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.vt.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!torn!sodalite.nbnet.nb.ca!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A771F8.61586E05@nbnet.nb.ca> From: Gunter Vautz X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Candy Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 2 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 03:08:32 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 207.179.147.83 X-Complaints-To: abuse@nbnet.nb.ca X-Trace: sodalite.nbnet.nb.ca 950497712 207.179.147.83 (Sun, 13 Feb 2000 23:08:32 AST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 23:08:32 AST Organization: NBTel Internet Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23152 Could somebody help me out with a recipe for sugar candy? Thanks Gunter Article 23153 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!europa.netcrusader.net!204.127.161.3!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <20000213211751.24980.00003269@ng-ci1.aol.com> Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Lines: 68 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 03:50:04 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.48.95 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 950500204 12.72.48.95 (Mon, 14 Feb 2000 03:50:04 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 03:50:04 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23153 > < ones for another 6 - 8 weeks?>> > Yes. In the future, if faced with the same situation, I would use an > alternative treatment with formic acid to avoid encouraging resistance to > fluvinate. Faced with what situation? Bees still flying? How did you determine that your first application did not knock them down? Prophylactic treatment is worse than no treatment at all, IMO. I think you are over-treating. > < milestone for treating?>> > Varroa mites are a communicable disease between colonies of bees. Varroa > mite load is highest in the summer. There is a great chart in "The Beekeeper's > Handbook" (Sammataro and Avitabile, pg. 140) that illustrates the research that > has shown this. Varroa is a parasite that increases the bees susceptibility to disease, not a disease itself. > The combination of high mite loads coupled with less brood rearing (the > queen slows her egg laying considerably in prep. for winter) overwhelms > colonies, killing them in the fall. I don't 100% agree with this because the end result does not have to be a crash in the fall. Yes, there is a point where a colony will not survive. In my location with Italians (which go into winter with a large cluster) fall is the ideal time to treat and is the only treatment I do (Oct 1st). The queens are still laying like maniacs. Timing is everything and you may need to treat earlier. One week late may spell doom. Are you keeping Carniolans that might be shutting down early? > When the colonies finally crash, the remaining bees, which could number in > the thousands, go home-seeking for other colonies to join. If a feral colony > (or a poorly managed one) near your bee yard dies out, hundreds - maybe > thousands - of mite-infested bees may show up on your hives' landing boards. In > this way, your hives could go from no infestation to severe infestation ve ry > quickly in the fall. > Once it becomes too cold for bees to fly, you don't have to worry about this > kind of thing. > John Waiting for the bees to stop flying here would necessitate nearly year-round treatment. Is the lack of flying milestone your theory or are there some studies to support a claim that you should treat until the bees are no longer flying? -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there Article 23154 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!bignews.mediaways.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Freddie Cooke" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Larvin 3.2 & bees Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 02:13:58 -0000 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 59 Message-ID: <887oil$rqh$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <20000211135437.19010.00000116@nso-co.aol.com> <20000211194500.27087.00002910@ng-fm1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-33.magnesium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news8.svr.pol.co.uk 950494613 28497 62.136.11.33 (14 Feb 2000 02:16:53 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 14 Feb 2000 02:16:53 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23154 Hi There, I have lost bees from crop spray a few times. In the UK if you make farmers aware of your hives presence in their locality they are required to notify you before spraying so that you can take evasive action. I have always found them very helpful since they know the value of bee pollination. I keep a set of transport covers which are mostly made up of fine mesh. The night before I put a frameless super, stand a dish of water on the cover board and place the mesh cover on top then I place a strip of mesh over the entrance. I then shade the hives if necessary. They remain closed up for two whole days. You will find they are a little upset when you take the covers off but they soon settle down. Best wishes, Freddie. JMitc1014 wrote in message news:20000211194500.27087.00002910@ng-fm1.aol.com... > Bob Pursley wrote: > > < there will be no honey. Think it out if you really want bees in that location. > And then the pesticide cost on your production.>> > > Actually, I have no interest in the corn. This farmer cultivates pumpkin > there too. Actually, a variety of crops are cultivated around this area, but > the site is nearly adjacent to a river. And around it grows dense stands of > purple loosestrife. I have developed quite a taste for loosestrife honey, and > everybody I've given samples or sold it to says they want more. > I think the market I'm reaching is bored with clover honey. Anything that > tastes different from clover honey seems exotic and upscale to them. > There are sites nearby that I am looking into that are neither cultivated nor > sprayed, but I'm not sure if it might not be a better idea to have my bee's in > the farmer's fields. > That way, he will be aware of the physical presence of bees in the vicenity > (out of sight is out of mind), and be motivated and reminded to alter his > methods to ensure minimum harm to the bees. Paradoxally, by keeping my bees > nearer to the source of the pesticide, I am able to exert more control over its > use and better protect the bees. > On the other hand, all the studies I've seen of bee foraging habits indicate > that their pattern is haphazard at best. If the hives are a little ways > upriver, the bees may choose to forage exclusively in another direction, and > never go near the sprayed fields. > Anyway, I'm still trying to figure out what's best here... Article 23155 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!logbridge.uoregon.edu!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Lines: 25 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 14 Feb 2000 02:17:51 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Message-ID: <20000213211751.24980.00003269@ng-ci1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23155 George Styer wrote: <> Yes. In the future, if faced with the same situation, I would use an alternative treatment with formic acid to avoid encouraging resistance to fluvinate. <> Varroa mites are a communicable disease between colonies of bees. Varroa mite load is highest in the summer. There is a great chart in "The Beekeeper's Handbook" (Sammataro and Avitabile, pg. 140) that illustrates the research that has shown this. The combination of high mite loads coupled with less brood rearing (the queen slows her egg laying considerably in prep. for winter) overwhelms colonies, killing them in the fall. When the colonies finally crash, the remaining bees, which could number in the thousands, go home-seeking for other colonies to join. If a feral colony (or a poorly managed one) near your bee yard dies out, hundreds ≈ maybe thousands ≈ of mite-infested bees may show up on your hives' landing boards. In this way, your hives could go from no infestation to severe infestation very quickly in the fall. Once it becomes too cold for bees to fly, you don't have to worry about this kind of thing. John Article 23156 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!newsfeed.usit.net!news1.usit.net!not-for-mail From: "Jason Wilson" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <87sk20$lp$2@news1.Radix.Net> Subject: Re: FW: Varroa Test Lines: 26 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 02:40:48 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.80.145.221 X-Complaints-To: abuse@usit.net X-Trace: news1.usit.net 950150448 216.80.145.221 (Wed, 09 Feb 2000 21:40:48 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 21:40:48 EST Organization: U. S. Internet, Inc. Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23156 Not trying to start a fight but....... Where I live we had numerous days of 104 -106 degree weather. If they die at 104 why did I still have mites? Starr Mtn. > > >Even easier, put the bees in a jar with a screen top. Heat >the jar to 40+ degrees centigrade. Turn the jar over a >white sheet of paper and tap it a couple of times. Count >the mites! Varroa mites die at 40 degrees! > >Greg the beekeep > > > > // Bee Just & Just Bee! > =8{ })))- Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA > \\ www.radix.net\~honeybs > > > Article 23157 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!logbridge.uoregon.edu!europa.netcrusader.net!206.132.58.120!gw22.nn.bcandid.com!hub12.nn.bcandid.com!tw11.nn.bcandid.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: help Message-ID: References: <887nej$rbh$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> Organization: All X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.20 Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.100.16.35 X-Trace: tw11.nn.bcandid.com 950496654 216.100.16.35 (Sun, 13 Feb 2000 19:50:54 MST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 19:50:54 MST Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 02:50:54 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23157 Could it be that in actuality U are not really U In article <887nej$rbh$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk>, rprinceton@hotmail.com says... > why is it showing previous owners name not mine > > > Article 23158 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.vt.edu!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!iol.ie!news-lond.gip.net!news.gsl.net!gip.net!easynet-uk!easynet.net!peer1.news.dircon.net!peer2.news.dircon.net!reader.news.dircon.net!not-for-mail From: christopher.slade@zbee.com (Christopher Slade) To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive-killer Mockingbird? Message-ID: <950484704@zbee.com> Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 00:17:42 +0000 Distribution: world Organization: ZbeeNet computer networking for beekeepers CHRS: IBMPC 2 CODEPAGE: 850 MSGID: 240:244/186 86604278 REPLY: 240:44/0 5d216483 PID: FDAPX/w 1.13 UnReg(88) X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 194.112.43.78 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 194.112.32.19 Lines: 6 NNTP-Posting-Host: newsread3.dircon.co.uk X-Trace: reader.news.dircon.net 950509876 28170 194.112.32.19 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23158 I once set a mouse trap at the entrance to a hive but caught a blue tit instead. Chris Slade --- * Origin: Beenet Point (240:244/186) Article 23159 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive-killer Mockingbird? Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 14 Feb 2000 11:48:12 GMT References: <87vkao$sn5$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000214064812.28805.00003404@ng-fw1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23159 >Now I have >a woodpecker too so I am now making some mesh cages to fit round the whole wouldn't a shotgun work a little better ???? Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC Article 23160 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!logbridge.uoregon.edu!remarQ70!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQ66!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "news" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: John Deere Tractor Auction Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 11:36:47 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 23 Message-ID: X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23160 For Auction: this is a very rare tractor orchard muffler PRICE NEGOTIABLE. PLEASE CALL FOR FUTHER INFORMATION. (616) 944-1566 Seller ID: fairview Location: Eau Claire, MI Starting Date: 02/06/2000 05:01 p.m. EST Ending Date: 03/07/2000 01:30 a.m. EST Time Left: 21 days, 14 hours, 46 minutes Quantity Available: 1 1 Condition: excellent Starting Bid: $13500.00 Current Bid: $13500.00 Bid Increment: $270.00 http://www.comauction.com/com/plsql/ShowItem?ItemId=02062000612791959-JOHN-D EERE-330 Article 23161 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!newspeer1.nac.net!news.new-york.net!remarQ-easT!remarQ.com!supernews.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lauramleek@aol.com (LauraMLeek) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive-killer Mockingbird? Lines: 3 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 14 Feb 2000 17:22:54 GMT References: <38a7f5fa.141811132@news1.radix.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000214122254.02356.00000737@ng-cg1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23161 Or maybe they are just smarter than the birds. Laura Article 23162 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!newsxfer.visi.net!firenze.visi.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A8640D.52ECEBC5@visi.net> From: Thom Bradley X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Candy References: <38A771F8.61586E05@nbnet.nb.ca> <38A84319.FDE4E737@raytheon.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 11 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 20:22:40 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp32.ts1-1.norfolk.visi.net NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 15:22:40 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23162 No, no, no. Don't use marshmallows. The impurities in the marshmallows can cause serious problems. Alot of discussion has occurred in the past re: the recipe for sugar candy. Run a search on the Bee-L archives or run a Deja search to get lots of good advice. Thom Bradley Chesapeake, VA "Larry S. Farris" wrote: > > > Could somebody help me out with a recipe for sugar candy? > > Marshmallows Article 23163 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!hydra.cs.rochester.edu!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news.idt.net!peerfeed.news.psi.net!psinr!nr1.ottawa.istar.net!not-for-mail From: "Michel Crichton" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Question about moving hives Lines: 23 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3612.1700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3612.1700 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 15:36:20 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 198.53.180.130 NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 10:36:20 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23163 Hi all, Well we are in the deep throws of winter here in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. The bees have been nestled in their hives since Oct-Nov. Temperatures averages around -10 to -15C (- F) during the day. A friend of mine wants to move some of his hives about 500km south later this month. Temperatures will be the same then as they are now. We will of course pick a sunny day and all but I doubt it will be much warmer than I've stated above. I am a little worried that it may be too cold to do the move and disturbing the bees in this weather may make them break the cluster and lead to the death of the hive. My friend says it's the only weekend he can do it so it's now or never. What do you think? Is it safe to move the hives in this weather? Any tips and tricks when moving hives. I've read many things on it but experience is always the best way to have learned. Thanks for any help, Michel Crichton Article 23164 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.vt.edu!news.netins.net!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <20000214082321.03817.00000345@ng-fc1.aol.com> Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Lines: 19 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 21:17:12 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.42.88 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 950563032 12.72.42.88 (Mon, 14 Feb 2000 21:17:12 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 21:17:12 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23164 Race can matter. I asked about Carniolan because they shut down sooner and go into winter with a small cluster so it would reason that you would have to treat sooner to ensure a large enough population to winter successfully. Other studies have shown that the shorter brood cycle of Scutella retards the build-up of mite populations. And of course the Asian races have co-evolved with the mite. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there > <> > I am keeping a variety of bees, but I don't know if race matters. Article 23165 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!logbridge.uoregon.edu!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Zero Varroa Count Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 19:42:19 +0000 Message-ID: References: <38A4831B.AA8D254F@crosslink.net> <38A6BAA8.CE49421D@crosslink.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 950558521 nnrp-09:9528 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 9 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23165 In article <38A6BAA8.CE49421D@crosslink.net>, L.E.G. writes >Yes there is brood in all stages , just not that much, maybe 4 palm sized >groups in center of cluster. It is still too cold for much more than >that... and that's enough to absorb several hundred varroa! Not that you'll have that many after autumn treatment if it is still potent. -- James Kilty Article 23166 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!pitt.edu!newsflash.concordia.ca!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.gamma.ru!Gamma.RU!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 19:52:05 +0000 Message-ID: References: <38A5B33F.B9AD01FE@twcny.rr.com> <20000213134244.27088.00003505@ng-fm1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 950558522 nnrp-09:9528 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 31 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23166 In article <20000213134244.27088.00003505@ng-fm1.aol.com>, JMitc1014 writes > I missed the goldenrod and aster flow totally by putting my Apistan strips in >early. That's the hard thing about Griffes' recommendation: If you treat early, >you have to walk away from a honey flow. so what about the treatment not needing a "withdrawal period" (i.e. you can put it in and *still* take honey. >1) I've seen recommendations more than a few times not to leave goldenrod and >aster honey on the hive (which I did) for winter feed because it granulates >quickly. Some say it causes bees to need more cleansing flights, too. only if the honey left between the grains of crystallised sugars is too watery so the bees get bloated. > On the >other hand, I don't want quick granulating honey for myself, so what am I going >to do with it? I'd rather my bees were eating granulated honey in February than >granulated sugar that I put in to thwart starvation. so would I. It must be very similar to the bees, which have been around a lot longer than humans and must have met this situation before. >2) Due to the fact that we had a long warm fall, the season of varroa collapse >for feral hives and poorly managed hives was twice as long. Since I put my >strips in early, I had to put new ones in to last until the bees finally >stopped flying. Doubling your treatment costs may be ok with a few hives, but >again, for commercial guys and sideliners, that's prabably implausible. Did you confirm that you had an influx? what method did you use? On a different note for the more experienced reading this, does prolonging the treatment using two sets of inserts lead to quicker resistance development? -- James Kilty Article 23167 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!EU.net!newsfeed2.news.nl.uu.net!sun4nl!newsfeed.icl.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!denrosa.demon.co.uk!murray From: Murray McGregor Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bee Keeping in your garden Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 08:29:34 +0000 Organization: Denrosa Ltd Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: denrosa.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: denrosa.demon.co.uk:194.222.100.90 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 950430909 nnrp-11:25270 NO-IDENT denrosa.demon.co.uk:194.222.100.90 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Version 3.04 Lines: 63 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23167 In article <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net>, Diane Waller writes >Hello, > >Can I ask for the readers views on keeping bees in your garden, one possibly >two hives. Needless to say there seem to be two schools of thought here, one >saying "Yes, no problem." and the other saying "No." > >Here in England we tend to have fairly small gardens but just how small does >a garden have to be before a hive would be impractical ? Our garden is >roughly 25 feet by 100 feet with neighbours either side. One neighbour has a >sun house at the bottom of the garden which they do use during the summer >months. > >It would be interesting to hear peoples comments on the viability of a hive >in the garden... > >Many thanks... > >-- >Diane > > I generally would say you should not do it. Given the narrowness of your garden you will be at most 12 feet from your neighbours boundary even if you put it right in the middle of the garden. Most of the time it will be no trouble, but inevitably there will be other times when it will. One point to remember is that you will get replies from beekeepers in countries where they use extremely gentle bees and can work happily with little protective clothing. The British bee is GENERALLY not like that, with much of its genetic base being from the northern european black bee, and they are, even in the best circumstances, a little more tetchy than some other races. You could certainly buy bees of a very gentle strain, and maintain that behaviour buy only buying queens (annually) from the same breeder, but if you let them raise their own the vagaries of natural mating come into play and you will have no guarantee of the temperament of the progeny. General bee behaviour can also cause friction. Spring time spotting, of cars, windows and washing is probably the worst thing for relationships with the neighbours, apart of course from the occasional stings. Water gathering can also give rise to concern. I do not know how far you are from the countryside, but local farmers or landowners are usually very accommodating about giving you a place to put a hive or two on their land. I hope this helps a bit Good luck Murray McGregor -- Murray McGregor Article 23168 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!newsfeed.tli.de!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!berfa.demon.co.uk!dag From: David Gladstone Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Pollinator Publishes Children's Story Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 18:33:44 +0000 Organization: berfa - where computers have attitude Message-ID: References: <19990104204733.29630.00006174@ng108.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: berfa.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: berfa.demon.co.uk:158.152.69.159 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 950435797 nnrp-08:907 NO-IDENT berfa.demon.co.uk:158.152.69.159 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 U Lines: 29 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23168 I am always looking for new ways to introduce new beekeepers and I believe in the power of telling them while they are young. So many children are put off by their parents. Please send me a copy of your book. If you intend to publish the book on the web then please let me know so that I can put a link in the Bristol Beekeepers website. I can do some simple text-> HTML (webspeak) conversions if you need help in making a website. In article <19990104204733.29630.00006174@ng108.aol.com>, Pollinator writes > > If you'd like a copy of this 24 page book, illustrated with photos from my >files, check with Jan at the address below, or e-mail me for details. > >Jan's Sweetness & Light Shop >http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm > >Pollinator@aol.com > -- Dr David A Gladstone - Hon Secretary Bristol Beekeepers Association, Bristol UK web site www.bristol-beekeepers.freeserve.co.uk Article 23169 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!news-kar1.dfn.de!news-fra1.dfn.de!news.man.poznan.pl!news.icm.edu.pl!orion.cst.tpsa.pl!news.tpnet.pl!not-for-mail From: "antany" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Anybody from Poland Lines: 5 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2417.2000 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 11:24:20 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 213.25.63.110 X-Complaints-To: abuse@tpsa.pl X-Trace: news.tpnet.pl 950441060 213.25.63.110 (Sun, 13 Feb 2000 12:24:20 MET) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 12:24:20 MET Organization: TPNET - http://www.tpnet.pl Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23169 Czy jest na tej liscie ktos z Polski? Andrzej z Katowic Article 23170 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A863FF.A351514D@twcny.rr.com> From: JGinNY X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill References: <20000214082321.03817.00000345@ng-fc1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Lines: 49 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 20:15:54 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.54 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 950559354 24.92.236.54 (Mon, 14 Feb 2000 15:15:54 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 15:15:54 EST Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23170 JMitc1014 wrote: > If a hive crashes nearby, your colonies could be significantly reinfested > fairly quickly ≈ after your fall treatment. Good point, but then I have never seen adjacent colonies crash in the Fall. It could (might, maybe - !) happen, I suppose. > < are over-treating.>> > That is a danger, yes. And the reasons why it is a danger are these: > 1) Fluvinate is toxic to bees, but it's more toxic to mites. If I treat twice > with fluvinate, then I may be reaching the toxic threshold for the bees. > 2) Formic acid can have detrimental effects on bees too. I don't know enough > about it yet to be able to articulate it here. Anybody out there have any > knowledge about potential harmful side effects of formic acid? I have heard or read that it can cause marked supersedure problems. (Is this common?) It is caustic stuff, anyway. Causes your frame nails to oxidize. Yikes. > > The important question, in my mind, is how well my colonies survive and > continue to thrive. It would be irresponsible to post about this theory here > and not let you know what the results are. After one season, so far, so good. Well, keep us posted. That it's shown excellent results to this point is very promising. > <> > I am keeping a variety of bees, but I don't know if race matters. Carnies and others (e.g., Yugo's) start to shut down brood rearing much earlier than even moderately prolific Italians. Some Italians can have a surprisingly large amount of brood even into Oct. The difference in the volume of brood between races (seems to me) could make a huge difference on treatment efficacy, again depending on the timing. > I've tried > to preface my remarks with words like could, might and maybe, because I'm not > citing scientific studies Where is Jack these days, anyway...? It would be interesting to hear his own input on this stuff. Oh Jaaaaaaaaack.... ? Article 23171 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!SonOfMaze.dpo.uab.edu!news.uah.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newspump.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!bignews.mediaways.net!blackbush.xlink.net!rz.uni-karlsruhe.de!schlund.de!news.online.de!not-for-mail From: "M@rkus" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Question about moving hives Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 21:50:57 +0100 Organization: 1&1 Telekommunikation GmbH Lines: 11 Message-ID: <889prj$nh3$1@news.online.de> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: pc19f852b.dip0.t-ipconnect.de X-Trace: news.online.de 950561459 24099 193.159.133.43 (14 Feb 2000 20:50:59 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@online.de NNTP-Posting-Date: 14 Feb 2000 20:50:59 GMT X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23171 Hi, if the bees much fodder credit deal and with caution That is not a problem. Already repeatedly, hir in Germany however there is not not as cold it made as in Canada. It knows times a trying, hope finally gehts well. I require and bees to you viell luck. I hope I wrote, my English am not not so good correctly. Greeting Markus. Article 23172 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A86F00.45341301@twcny.rr.com> From: JGinNY X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill References: <38A5B33F.B9AD01FE@twcny.rr.com> <20000213003739.10195.00000505@ng-cu1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 69 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 21:02:52 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.54 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 950562172 24.92.236.54 (Mon, 14 Feb 2000 16:02:52 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 16:02:52 EST Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23172 JMitc1014 wrote: > < considerable difference.>> > As surely as the snow and ice have melted off my black driveway and my black > roof, dark-colored hive walls will absorb and retain heat. Maybe not much, but > maybe enough to allow movement to the food. Well, OK, on a still day, with full sun, it could make some difference. Some hives up in Alaska get painted black. I'm just not sure how much of the heat would affect the actual hive interior. Especially when there many combs full of cold honey in there. > the hives get more sun > exposure in the winter. Yep. Our hives are dark brown, mostly, and one thing I _can_ say is that the snow and ice at the front of the hives does tend to melt away when there is substantial sun and the temps aren't too cold. It helps to keep the front of the hives clearer, for cleansing flights. > the idea is that they > will have repositioned themselves during the day to make it through the night I agree, an opportunity to shift cluster positioning can make an important difference. That is why an occasional warm day under certain winter conditions can be a lifesaver. Nevertheless, if a cluster is too small, or has dwindled a lot (already has other disease/parasite problems), they are much more at risk. Dark paint on the hive, plus long periods of full sun, plus lack of wind chill *might* help save them, if it's at the right time, and if they are really lucky! > . Direct sunlight is intermittent, not constant, due to overcast days. So > what? Our best management techniques only increase the odds of colony survival. Every little bit helps, but to have healthy full-strength colonies going INto winter is the main thing. "Take your losses in the Fall" is still the best advice. Trouble is, now we have mite infestations and sometimes-unexpected colony crashes late in the year, throwing a monkey-wrench into the works. > Very few of our practices (if any) guarantee success. In all things > agricultural, there's no accounting for the weather. I'm still working on my ultra-low-frequency climate altering pulse transmitter network. Once I get the kinks worked out... > maybe dark colors aren't > the choice for you. You may have to experiment a little. I have seen a few black hives in the summer here, in full sun. The bees do have to put effort into fanning, and temp. control inside the hive (everything inside is already warm enough!), but they manage fine. That was in central NY State, and in an area that tends to have a lot of overcast days. (Although I wouldn't go painting all the hives black. The bees would really have their work cut out for them on the hot days. And btw, on the hottest summer days, in many hours of full sun, combs above a bee-escape _can_ break down, if there are no bees up there! I had a number of really nice round sections ruined one time) A simple tar-paper wrap can put a black exterior on any hive, for the winter. That is one way to do it (although if it is _too_ tight, it can be a moisture barrier, causing excessive condensation underneath). > <<...and buffered by intervening combs.>> > If combs were a great obstacle to heat, clustering on them would be > inefficient. Combs of honey outside the cluster are freezing cold much of the time and a high-density heat sink. Article 23173 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!newsfeed.usit.net!cyclone.pbi.net!151.164.30.35!cyclone.swbell.net!bos-service1.ext.raytheon.com!dfw-service2.ext.raytheon.com!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A84319.FDE4E737@raytheon.com> From: "Larry S. Farris" Reply-To: lsfarris@raytheon.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en,ru MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Candy References: <38A771F8.61586E05@nbnet.nb.ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 6 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 12:02:01 -0600 NNTP-Posting-Host: 147.25.198.43 X-Complaints-To: news@icg.raytheon.com X-Trace: dfw-service2.ext.raytheon.com 950551219 147.25.198.43 (Mon, 14 Feb 2000 12:00:19 CST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 12:00:19 CST Organization: Raytheon Company Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23173 > Could somebody help me out with a recipe for sugar candy? Marshmallows Article 23174 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <887nej$rbh$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> Subject: Re: help Lines: 20 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 21:17:11 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.42.88 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 950563031 12.72.42.88 (Mon, 14 Feb 2000 21:17:11 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 21:17:11 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23174 If you want to change "princeton": In IE go to "tools,accounts" and change the properties. Netscape is in "edit,preferences". -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there "princeton" wrote in message news:887nej$rbh$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk... > why is it showing previous owners name not mine > > Article 23175 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news-FFM2.ecrc.net!news-MUC.ecrc.net!newsfeed.icl.net!newspeer.clara.net!news.clara.net!nnrp3.clara.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Nick Templar" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Need your input - with only 24 hours to go! Lines: 32 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: <3G%p4.5613$s02.153911@nnrp3.clara.net> Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 22:51:43 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 195.8.86.70 X-Complaints-To: abuse@clara.net X-Trace: nnrp3.clara.net 950568703 195.8.86.70 (Mon, 14 Feb 2000 22:51:43 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 22:51:43 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23175 Hi folks On Tuesday 15 February at 8.00 p.m. at Elmfield School, Love Lane Oldswinford UK I will be giving a talk to the Hagley and Stourbridge Beekeepers Association on BEEKEEPING & COMPUTERS - and I need your help! Please attach to this message: The address of your favourite beekeeping Web site. Where can I find the best beekeeping photo's on the net? Have you come across any particularly interesting bee related sites? What beekeeping activity do you use your PC for? Where else on the internet is there useful beekeeping information? What question should I have asked you here that will enable you to dazzle my audience? Ok folks this isn't a competition but the more replies the merrier! Thanks, see you next week ... Nick Originally posted on 7 February but amazingly no one responded Article 23176 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.vt.edu!newspump.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news-lond.gip.net!news.gsl.net!gip.net!netnews.globalip.ch!news.vtx.ch!not-for-mail From: "Martin-Paul Broennimann" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Question about moving hives Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 23:01:07 +0100 Organization: VTX Services SA Lines: 34 Message-ID: <889tvt$oak1@news.vtx.ch> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: ge-dial-5-p56.vtx.ch X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23176 It is madness. Leave them alone. Michel Crichton a Иcrit dans le message : UhVp4.334$R2.28025853@nr1.ottawa.istar.net... > Hi all, > > Well we are in the deep throws of winter here in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. > The bees have been nestled in their hives since Oct-Nov. Temperatures > averages around -10 to -15C (- F) during the day. A friend of mine wants > to move some of his hives about 500km south later this month. Temperatures > will be the same then as they are now. We will of course pick a sunny day > and all but I doubt it will be much warmer than I've stated above. > > I am a little worried that it may be too cold to do the move and disturbing > the bees in this weather may make them break the cluster and lead to the > death of the hive. My friend says it's the only weekend he can do it so > it's now or never. > > What do you think? Is it safe to move the hives in this weather? Any tips > and tricks when moving hives. I've read many things on it but experience is > always the best way to have learned. > > > Thanks for any help, > Michel Crichton > > Article 23177 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.gamma.ru!Gamma.RU!newsfeed.online.be!uunet!ams.uu.net!ffx.uu.net!news.laserlink.net!not-for-mail From: "djchild" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Lost hives Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 16:49:14 -0600 Organization: laserlink.net Lines: 15 Message-ID: <889t13$l7g$1@news.laserlink.net> Reply-To: "djchild" X-Trace: news.laserlink.net 950564708 21744 63.21.119.87 (14 Feb 2000 21:45:08 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@laserlink.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23177 Need a little advice. I took honey late this year and it looks like I didn't leave enough for the winter. I have lost two hives and my guess is that I starved them out. When I went to check on the hives, they were totally empty with no dead bees on the bottom board. Nothing left in the cells. Two questions: Do you think they starved rather than died of disease? Would there be a problem using the same comb when I replace the hive in the spring? Thanks. David Childers Roanoke, VA Article 23178 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!fr.usenet-edu.net!usenet-edu.net!proxad.net!grolier!club-internet!not-for-mail From: "apipop" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Varroa - treatment Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 23:22:05 +0100 Organization: Club-Internet (France) Lines: 47 Message-ID: <889vhf$12b$1@front1m.grolier.fr> References: <38a41f8b$0$77128@SSP1NO17.highway.telekom.at> Reply-To: "apipop" NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp-44-28-240.wmar.club-internet.fr X-Trace: front1m.grolier.fr 950567279 1099 213.44.28.240 (14 Feb 2000 22:27:59 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 14 Feb 2000 22:27:59 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23178 Hi everybody, Here in France and also in Italy we have been experiencing for two or three years a dramatic problem of varroa resistance to Fluvalinate thus APISTAN. It is so true that Apistan manufacturer (SWARM) has eventually published a one page advertising on the subject in january issue of our bee magazines. Well... they first recognize that resistances have been proved in some area and recommend to alternate with an other active molecule. But then they add that those using AMITRAZE should be cautious because some efficiency losses are reported about it ;-))). Finally they announce a development underway " APIGUARD" which is a thymol based product but not yet legally approved. Now we have in France only two approved product : Apistan (Fluvlinate ) or Apivar (Amitraze). Apivar is packaged in plastic strips like Apistan. Two of them must be inserted inside the brood area and left for at least 6 to 8 weeks. It is not as powerful as Apistan was but it works. Of course as the price is also pretty high some people are using Amitraze by evaporation. The product (Taktic) is available from veterinary who sell it to treat dogs against fleas (in the bath). You have just to pour ten drops (.5 milliliter) on a greased sheet of white material (aluminum for ex.) and insert it on the hive floor then the varroas drop down and are glued in the grease (butter, lard). With a grid floor it is convenient to use the drawer. It is working too and very much cheaper. Treatment must be done once a week three times preferably when no brood is present in the hive. -- apipop N 43.64╟ / E 3.96╟ [WGS84] _ Franz Gindl a Иcrit dans le message : 38a41f8b$0$77128@SSP1NO17.highway.telekom.at... > There should be a varroa-treatment in eastern Europe with so called "Amitraze". > Does somebody have experience by this medicine? > > Franz > > mailto: beekeeper@aon.at > > Article 23179 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!news-FFM2.ecrc.net!news-MUC.ecrc.net!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Freddie Cooke" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive-killer Mockingbird? Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 23:59:44 -0000 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 19 Message-ID: <88a538$h3a$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <87vkao$sn5$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> <20000214064812.28805.00003404@ng-fw1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-88.titanium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk 950572968 17514 62.136.21.88 (15 Feb 2000 00:02:48 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 15 Feb 2000 00:02:48 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23179 Hi Kevin, Thankfully we have both very effective gun laws and woodpeckers are a protected specie here in the UK. However I have to say that after the first flush of admiration for their cunning images of guns came into my mind quite vividly. The cages work very well. Best wishes Freddie. Hk1BeeMan wrote in message news:20000214064812.28805.00003404@ng-fw1.aol.com... > >Now I have > >a woodpecker too so I am now making some mesh cages to fit round the whole > > wouldn't a shotgun work a little better ???? > > > Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC > Article 23180 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Lines: 22 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 15 Feb 2000 00:55:10 GMT References: <38A863FF.A351514D@twcny.rr.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000214195510.03457.00000453@ng-fb1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23180 JGin NY wrote: <> That's good information. I didn't have that. Thanks. <> I was aware that they winter over with much fewer bees, but I was not aware that they shut down sooner. Could this account for the reason why Italians have a rep for robbing (more bees late in the fall when there is no nectar flow? <> And is the Honey bee Improvement Program still going strong? Cheers, John Article 23181 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 15 Feb 2000 01:15:00 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000214201500.28350.00003450@ng-cd1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23181 George Styer wrote: <<...it would reason that you would have to treat sooner to ensure a large enough population to winter successfully.>> I didn't consider this. Do you treat at different times for different races? Cheers, John Article 23182 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!news0.de.colt.net!colt.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Freddie Cooke" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: help Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 23:55:29 -0000 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 30 Message-ID: <88a4r9$guk$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <887nej$rbh$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-88.titanium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk 950572713 17364 62.136.21.88 (14 Feb 2000 23:58:33 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 14 Feb 2000 23:58:33 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23182 Thanks George, Yes I eventually figured it out. I took this computer over from a friend and he left all his stuff on for me to use. Hopefully all my emails will carry my own name from here in. Best wishes Freddie. George Styer wrote in message news:rh_p4.9457$LC4.248095@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... > If you want to change "princeton": > > In IE go to "tools,accounts" and change the properties. > Netscape is in "edit,preferences". > > -- > Geo > Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley > "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" > gstyLer@worldnet.att.net > To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there > > > "princeton" wrote in message > news:887nej$rbh$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk... > > why is it showing previous owners name not mine > > > > > > Article 23183 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Lines: 29 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 15 Feb 2000 01:37:36 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000214203736.28350.00003457@ng-cd1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23183 <> I don't want fluvinate-contaminated combs in my supers. And sometimes I don't have enough extra brood boxes floating around to stick one on each hive. As it is, I just let them plug out the two brood boxes for winter with the aster and goldenrod honey. > Perhaps. But if goldenrod and aster are North American natives (Anybody with a field guide who can confirm this?), then the honey bees were only introduced to them a few hundred years ago. Maybe the honey bees evolved to overwinter on slower granulating honey. <> In one yard, I discovered varroa mites on drone brood in the burr comb. I also saw some bees with deformed wings on a second hive, which was (is) my strongest, most populous hive. I have read more than a few times that it is the strongest colonies that get hit hardest by varroa. I assumed another hive at that site would be infested. At another location where I keep two hives, I actually saw two varroa mites on the landing board. I also saw a few bees with shriveled wings. At a third site between the first two, I had no confirmation, but since it was book-ended between the other two varroa-infested apiaries, treatment seemed prudent. Cheers, John Article 23184 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!diablo.theplanet.net!colt.net!easynet-uk!easynet.net!btnet-feed2!newreader.ukcore.bt.net!btnet-feed1!btnet!landlord!stones.POSTED!not-for-mail From: beeman@beeman.free-online.co.uk Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive-killer Mockingbird? Message-ID: <38a8a01e.39508265@news.free-online.net> References: <87vkao$sn5$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> <20000214064812.28805.00003404@ng-fw1.aol.com> <38a7f5fa.141811132@news1.radix.net> X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.21/32.243 Lines: 17 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 01:16:50 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 212.159.70.240 X-Complaints-To: abuse@plus.net.uk X-Trace: stones 950577275 212.159.70.240 (Tue, 15 Feb 2000 01:14:35 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 01:14:35 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23184 On Mon, 14 Feb 2000 12:33:57 GMT, honeybs@radix.net wrote: >On 14 Feb 2000 11:48:12 GMT, hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan) wrote: > >>>Now I have >>>a woodpecker too so I am now making some mesh cages to fit round the whole >> >>wouldn't a shotgun work a little better ???? >> >> >>Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC >> >I don't think the UK has the "Right to bear arms" that we do. > >Greg the beekeep > Thank god! Article 23185 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A8ADA7.A0C81138@twcny.rr.com> From: JGinNY X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Lost hives References: <889t13$l7g$1@news.laserlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 38 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 01:30:12 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.54 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 950578212 24.92.236.54 (Mon, 14 Feb 2000 20:30:12 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 20:30:12 EST Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23185 Is there any honey left in there? If the bees are almost all gone, it sounds like they had a bad mite infestation. With tracheal mites, sometimes the infected bees just leave and crawl away, and over time most of them just disappear. But when did you last check them? Did they look OK a month or two ago? Did you treat for varroa a/o tracheal mites in the fall? It does seem alarming that so many bees are gone. I once had a very strong colony that swarmed in late Sept. (in NY), leaving 5 supers of honey AND even sealed brood behind. They completely deserted the hive. Strangest thing. They had been badly infested with varroa mites, despite the large late-summer population, and it seems that had something to do with the absconding. (That was the easiest hive I ever harvested full supers from...!) If your colonies starved, there would most likely be a lot of dead bees crammed in the cells. They die in there when the last traces of honey are used up. And there'd probably be piles of them on the floor. Brush out whatever dead bees are left (except any that are inside cells) and secure the hive entrances against mice. The combs will be just fine for a new colony, so by all means re-stock the hive, come spring. djchild wrote: > Need a little advice. I took honey late this year and it looks like I > didn't leave enough for the winter. I have lost two hives and my guess is > that I starved them out. When I went to check on the hives, they were > totally empty with no dead bees on the bottom board. Nothing left in the > cells. > > Two questions: Do you think they starved rather than died of disease? > Would there be a problem using the same comb when I > replace the hive in the spring? > > Thanks. > David Childers > Roanoke, VA Article 23186 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need your input - with only 24 hours to go! Lines: 14 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 15 Feb 2000 02:57:13 GMT References: <3G%p4.5613$s02.153911@nnrp3.clara.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000214215713.27201.00003854@ng-cc1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23186 From: "Nick Templar" twentyone@clara.co.uk >Please attach to this message: >The address of your favourite beekeeping Web site. Some of mine are at: http://pollinator.com/beekper_resources.htm Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 23187 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A8DD99.154ACB9E@twcny.rr.com> From: JGinNY X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill References: <20000214203736.28350.00003457@ng-cd1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 51 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 04:54:51 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.54 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 950590491 24.92.236.54 (Mon, 14 Feb 2000 23:54:51 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 23:54:51 EST Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23187 JMitc1014 wrote: > < put it in and *still* take honey.>> > I don't want fluvinate-contaminated combs in my supers. And sometimes I don't > have enough extra brood boxes floating around to stick one on each hive. As it > is, I just let them plug out the two brood boxes for winter with the aster and > goldenrod honey. What John describes is certainly not a bad situation, either. The hives end up good and heavy, and spring feeding is hardly ever required. Colonies so well provisioned are apt to be really strong once spring breaks, without needing any special TLC. Once in a while they will end up in a honey-bound condition in the spring, if the colony didn't require so much food over winter, but by reversing brood chambers most of the excess stores get freed up and used, or moved up, getting work initiated early in the honey supers. Letting them have all the fall honey is good insurance, and even if some colonies die off before spring, the leftover honey and pollen are like money in the bank to new colonies. New bees installed in the hives really "take off" with those food stores already in place. It's said that in some areas, goldenrod/aster is the "main" crop, so it is counted on to provide the harvested surplus. Seems such a situation would complicate things, if timely (early) varroa treatments were to be administered. Fluvalinate-contaminated combs -- It's been shown that residues do get into the wax. It is a concern, but the formulation in Apistan is not water-soluble (unless I am mistaken - ?). So it should not show up as residues in the honey. Of course, the mfr. directions state that the strips are not to be in the hive when honey is being stored in the surplus supers. Why this would make much difference is not clear (--to me), as nectar is first stored in lower (brood chamber) combs by house-bees before being moved up into the supers. The brood combs having been exposed to fluvalinate before, they would be expected to have some residue in them. So it is still coming in contact with the nectar, no matter what. > if goldenrod and aster are North American natives (Anybody with > a field guide who can confirm this?), then the honey bees were only introduced > to them a few hundred years ago. Maybe the honey bees evolved to overwinter on > slower granulating honey. Aster and goldenrod both native spp. When there are large quantities of granulated stores in the hives in the spring, the bees put a LOT of effort into gathering water. They can often be seen all over the ground on warm days in Mar./Apr., near spots where there are springs, sun-warmed puddles, or areas of water-saturated grass. Evidently they deposit water in the cells of granulated honey and can dissolve or dilute the crystals. The behavior is to me remarkable -- I'm not sure just what they do to accomplish this, & wonder if it has been described in detail. (Has anyone on ng ever made observations on this?) Article 23188 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!remarQ70!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQ66!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: Chris Sauer Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need your input - with only 24 hours to go! Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 10:00:45 -0600 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 9 Message-ID: <38A9782D.DD9A9E26@mwci.net> References: <3G%p4.5613$s02.153911@nnrp3.clara.net> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.51 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23188 We have some pictures up at our site. http://www.greathoney.com/About_Us/about_us.html Chris and Janet Sauer Greathoney.com > Article 23189 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bobpursley@aol.com (Bob Pursley) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Candy Lines: 17 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 15 Feb 2000 18:59:11 GMT References: <38A986D8.672AC92B@raytheon.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com X-Newsreader: Session Scheduler Message-ID: <20000215135911.19678.00001229@nso-fe.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23189 In article <38A986D8.672AC92B@raytheon.com>, "Larry S. Farris" writes: > >Thom Bradley wrote: > >> No, no, no. Don't use marshmallows. The impurities in the >marshmallows >> can cause serious problems > >Not correct, I've been using marshmallow for many years without >ANY problems whatsoever! I'm sorry, but your comments about >"impurities" in marshmallow is just unfounded. > I dont think the starch in marshmallows is digestable for the bees, but I have used the miniture marshmellow without adverse effects in queen introduction. Article 23190 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.algonet.se!algonet!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.icl.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!vislearn.demon.co.uk!jonathan From: Jonathan Robbins Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive-killer Mockingbird? Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 20:13:38 +0000 Organization: The Talent Centre Ltd Message-ID: References: <87vkao$sn5$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> <20000214064812.28805.00003404@ng-fw1.aol.com> <38a7f5fa.141811132@news1.radix.net> Reply-To: Jonathan NNTP-Posting-Host: vislearn.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: vislearn.demon.co.uk:158.152.219.58 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 950601448 nnrp-09:22345 NO-IDENT vislearn.demon.co.uk:158.152.219.58 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 U <95WUkXGnMKbsXE9+K9TaH3GuUd> Lines: 21 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23190 In article <38a7f5fa.141811132@news1.radix.net>, honeybs@radix.net writes >On 14 Feb 2000 11:48:12 GMT, hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan) wrote: > >>>Now I have >>>a woodpecker too so I am now making some mesh cages to fit round the whole >> >>wouldn't a shotgun work a little better ???? >> >> >>Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC >> >I don't think the UK has the "Right to bear arms" that we do. > >Greg the beekeep > Don't have the bears either! Jonathan - keeping bees on a micro scale in sunny Dorset - some winter days. Jonathan Article 23191 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <38A5B33F.B9AD01FE@twcny.rr.com> <20000213134244.27088.00003505@ng-fm1.aol.com> Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Lines: 22 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 20:37:39 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.49.157 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 950474259 12.72.49.157 (Sun, 13 Feb 2000 20:37:39 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 20:37:39 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23191 > Since I put my > strips in early, I had to put new ones in to last until the bees finally > stopped flying. Doubling your treatment costs may be ok with a few hives, but > again, for commercial guys and sideliners, that's prabably implausible. > John Not sure what you are saying here. Did you treat for 6 - 8 weeks, then immediately replace the strips with new ones for another 6 - 8 weeks? What is your thinking here and why do you use the lack of flying as a milestone for treating? -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there Article 23192 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!portc05.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Provide a Water Source...how? Lines: 11 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Feb 2000 21:29:04 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000213162904.14714.00000062@ng-cu1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23192 2 concrete blocks in a 5 gallon bucket work well and provide footing and refill from the rain. I use floating plants in plastic barrel bottoms with a goldfish or two for skeeter control. Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 23193 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!newsfeed.tli.de!newsfeed01.sul.t-online.de!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "princeton" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: help Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 01:54:44 -0000 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 3 Message-ID: <887nej$rbh$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-33.magnesium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news8.svr.pol.co.uk 950493459 28017 62.136.11.33 (14 Feb 2000 01:57:39 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 14 Feb 2000 01:57:39 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23193 why is it showing previous owners name not mine Article 23194 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!remarQ70!remarQ.com!supernews.com!remarQ69!WReNclone!WReNphoon1.POSTED!WReN!not-for-mail From: Peter Hawkey & Keith Weeks Subject: Re: Bee Keeping in your garden Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Message-ID: <0146ce5a.21b28076@usw-ex0110-076.remarq.com> Lines: 15 Bytes: 533 X-Originating-Host: 195.171.12.102 Organization: http://www.remarq.com: The World's Usenet/Discussions Start Here References: <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net> X-Wren-Trace: eAQhCQgRVhxXTl4EAFMOCA83FhUIDlAXEwYOE0MTEklLUx1QRBVGW0ZUUk9bFEU= Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 07:34:34 -0800 NNTP-Posting-Host: 10.0.2.76 X-Complaints-To: wrenabuse@remarq.com X-Trace: WReNphoon1 950801757 10.0.2.76 (Thu, 17 Feb 2000 07:35:57 PST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 07:35:57 PST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23194 Dianne I have kept one hive of bees in my back garden for a year now. I live in Aberdeenshire so there is plenty of room for the bees to get about but I put a high (2.5m) fence around the side that has neighbours and there has been no trouble at all. I find that bribing my neighbours with a pot of honey every now and then seems to do the trick. Good luck Peter * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping. Smart is Beautiful Article 23195 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!newshost.nmt.edu!newshost.lanl.gov!logbridge.uoregon.edu!isdnet!wanadoo.fr!not-for-mail From: "RATIA Gilles" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Free Beekeeping Classified Ads Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 21:04:35 +0100 Organization: APISERVICES Lines: 34 Message-ID: <88hkct$dc9$1@wanadoo.fr> NNTP-Posting-Host: pau-9-96.abo.wanadoo.fr X-Trace: wanadoo.fr 950818013 13705 164.138.183.96 (17 Feb 2000 20:06:53 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@wanadoo.fr NNTP-Posting-Date: 17 Feb 2000 20:06:53 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23195 Have a look at http://www.beekeeping.com/photoads/ Lots and lots of good things Gilles RATIA Beekeeping Consultant Webmaster of the "Virtual Beekeeping Gallery" President of the Apimondia Standing Commission on Beekeeping Technology and Equipment APISERVICES Beekeeping Development "Le Terrier" F-24420 Coulaures - FRANCE Phone: +33 (0)5 53 05 91 13 Mobile: +33 (0)6 07 68 49 39 Fax: +33 (0)5 53 05 44 57 Do not dial (0) out of France Email: gilles.ratia@apiservices.com Web: http://www.beekeeping.com and http://www.beekeeping.org and http://www.apiculture.com and http://www.apicultura.com and http://www.imkerei.com and http://www.apiservices.com Latitude : N 45╟ 17' Longitude : E 001╟ 01' _________________________________________ Article 23196 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!faatcrl.faa.gov!hammer.uoregon.edu!newshub.northeast.verio.net!verio!news.idt.net!newsfeed.usit.net!news1.usit.net!not-for-mail From: gfdavis@usit.net" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: splitting hives Message-ID: <38ac93e5.784971@news.usit.net> X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/32.230 Lines: 7 Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 00:48:05 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.80.168.186 X-Complaints-To: abuse@usit.net X-Trace: news1.usit.net 950834885 216.80.168.186 (Thu, 17 Feb 2000 19:48:05 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 19:48:05 EST Organization: U. S. Internet, Inc. Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23196 Hello, I have 2 stong hives with one in it's second year. It swarmed twice last year, but seemed to build back up good. I am interested in making a split to expand. I also have two other hives that are doing well for their first year so far still in hives no honey from them last year. I want to produce a good honey crop this year I left supers on all 4 hives for the winter. What is my best bet for the upcoming year. Article 23197 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!remarQ70!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQ66!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: C.K. Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Haiku---------Bless You Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 01:57:45 GMT Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 15 Message-ID: References: <20000204202342.23220.00003209@ng-ch1.aol.com> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable MIME-Version: 1.0 Distribution: world X-Newsreader: NWReader V 0.9.7.102 BETA (c) 1999 by Stefan Reck Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23197 In article <20000204202342.23220.00003209@ng-ch1.aol.com> LauraMLeek wrote: > Mild February > bees flying today > Life is good 82F new record bees flying no rain no snow no nectur life is uncertain C.K. Article 23198 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Message-ID: <38A995CF.96A49866@zzclinic.net> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 13:07:11 -0500 From: Bill Truesdell X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.61 [en] (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Candy References: <38A771F8.61586E05@nbnet.nb.ca> <38A84319.FDE4E737@raytheon.com> <38A8640D.52ECEBC5@visi.net> <38A986D8.672AC92B@raytheon.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit NNTP-Posting-Host: d-p1-11.clinic.net X-Trace: 15 Feb 2000 18:06:21 GMT, d-p1-11.clinic.net Lines: 31 Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!newshost.nmt.edu!pants.skycache.com!newsfeed.skycache.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!News.Destek.net!d-p1-11.clinic.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23198 "Larry S. Farris" wrote: > > Thom Bradley wrote: > > > No, no, no. Don't use marshmallows. The impurities in the marshmallows > > can cause serious problems > > Not correct, I've been using marshmallow for many years without > ANY problems whatsoever! I'm sorry, but your comments about > "impurities" in marshmallow is just unfounded. All depends on when you use them. They probably do cause some bee kill but not that you would notice, which is normal for a lot of feeds used for bees. For many years I kept bees as instructed by some local beekeepers. I would lose a hive or two each winter- so would they. I harvested about 20lbs of honey each year, the State average, so I thought I was doing well without any problems. I listened to George Imire and Tony Jadczak on how they kept bees. I shifted and have not lost a hive in the past five winters. I average 75lbs to 150lbs per hive, three or more times the State average. Obviously I did have problems but never saw them, becasue I only knew what I and those who did as I did experienced. Long way to say that you may not see a problem where there is one. Many controlled scientific studies show that the best winter and spring feed is granualted sugar in over 30% solution, but not high enough to crystallize. Anything else is lower on the food chain, including honey! Bill T bath, ME -- If there is a zz before clinic.net, remove it to reply directly. Article 23199 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!nntp.primenet.com!nntp.gctr.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!qichina.demon.co.uk!not-for-mail From: Godfrey Bartlett Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Essex Beekeeping WebSite Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 18:33:29 +0000 Message-ID: <38A99BF9.8AA23EA1@qichina.demon.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: qichina.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: qichina.demon.co.uk:194.222.176.192 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 950639624 nnrp-12:28697 NO-IDENT qichina.demon.co.uk:194.222.176.192 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 5 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23199 The Essex BeeKeepers Association (UK) now has a website at : http://www.qichina.demon.co.uk/ebka Best, Godfrey Bartlett Article 23200 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!news.sgi.com!nntp.primenet.com!nntp.gctr.net!logbridge.uoregon.edu!hardy.tc.umn.edu!lynx.unm.edu!news.plk.af.mil!not-for-mail From: "Carl Overstreet" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: looking for beeswax Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:48:25 -0700 Organization: Air Force Phillips Lab. Lines: 7 Message-ID: <88c76r$kec$1@pr1.plk.af.mil> NNTP-Posting-Host: overstrc-95.plk.af.mil X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.2120.0 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.2120.0 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23200 I'm not a beekeeper but am looking for a source to purchase beeswax over the net. Blocks or any other form would be fine. Please email me directly at overstrc@plk.af.mil Thank you, Carl Overstreet Article 23201 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!news-was.dfn.de!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: pete Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: splitting hives Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 23:48:50 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 33 Message-ID: <88klp2$oog$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <38ac93e5.784971@news.usit.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.152.6.100 X-Article-Creation-Date: Fri Feb 18 23:48:50 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.7 [en]C-CCK-MCD snapN45b1 (Win95; U) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x24.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 216.152.6.100 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDhrogers000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23201 gfdavis@usit.net" wrote: > Hello, > I have 2 stong hives with one in it's second year. It swarmed twice > last year, but seemed to build back up good. I am interested in making > a split to expand. I also have two other hives that are doing well for > their first year so far still in hives no honey from them last year. I > want to produce a good honey crop this year I left supers on all 4 > hives for the winter. What is my best bet for the upcoming year. ******************************************************* Howdy GF -- If you are not familiar with George Imirie's writings, go to: http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee/articles.html He is a prolific writer with many years experience and gives some very good advice. Search in his articles to find his description of how to prevent swarming by splitting and recombining after the spring flow. This would give you a choice of leaving them divided for increase or recombine to retain strength yet prevent swarming. Lots of Luck. Pete So much to learn - So little time ! ************************************************** Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 23202 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!diablo.theplanet.net!colt.net!easynet-uk!easynet.net!btnet-feed2!newreader.ukcore.bt.net!btnet-feed1!btnet!landlord!stones.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Old Drone Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Local Beekeeping Association Subscriptions. Message-ID: <922ras0b0m7p54m1toe9m13gastvrqic3v@4ax.com> X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.7/32.534 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 11 Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 18:15:04 +0000 NNTP-Posting-Host: 212.159.69.248 X-Complaints-To: abuse@plus.net.uk X-Trace: stones 950897555 212.159.69.248 (Fri, 18 Feb 2000 18:12:35 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 18:12:35 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23202 Dear all, I am researching the cost of being a member of Local Beekeeping Associations. (Not National ones) Primarily I am interested in British ones, but any information from elsewhere, gratefully received. Of further interest is, what do you get, in return for your money? Members nights, lectures, demonstrations, loan of equipment, loan of bees, club apiaries etc. If there is sufficient information I will endeavour to do a small breakdown and post it. Many thanks in advance. Pete. Article 23203 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!news.sgi.com!csulb.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: Glenn West Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need your input - with only 24 hours to go! Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 20:11:26 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 64 Message-ID: <88cbta$tmi$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <3G%p4.5613$s02.153911@nnrp3.clara.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.228.142.1 X-Article-Creation-Date: Tue Feb 15 20:11:26 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 4.01; Windows 95) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x26.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 199.228.142.1 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDwestxga Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23203 In article <3G%p4.5613$s02.153911@nnrp3.clara.net>, "Nick Templar" wrote: > Hi folks > > On Tuesday 15 February at 8.00 p.m. at Elmfield School, Love Lane > Oldswinford UK I will be giving a talk to the Hagley and Stourbridge > Beekeepers Association on BEEKEEPING & COMPUTERS - and I need your help! > > Please attach to this message: > The address of your favourite beekeeping Web site. www.beesource.com/index.shtml > Where can I find the best beekeeping photo's on the net? Dunno, I usually just read the articles... > Have you come across any particularly interesting bee related sites? The University of Montana has an interesting site showing the coming and going of bees from an observation hive over time. The Java guages for current weather conditions is cool (although many, like barometric pressure don't seem to function) as is the plot of bees exiting and entering the hives. You'll probably want to view the spring and summer plots in the "flight archives" section. > What beekeeping activity do you use your PC for? Reading news groups like this one and gleaning info from other web sites, especially constructing beekeeping equipment. > Where else on the internet is there useful beekeeping information? Many. Just use your favorite search engine and use "beekeeping" for the search word/phrase. The BEE-L mail newsgroup has a lot of interesting and varied discussions. > What question should I have asked you here that will enable you to dazzle my > audience? What's the square root of three? Oh, you probably meant beekeeping questions. The BEE-L group has had a recent discussion on remote monitoring of hives. > > Ok folks this isn't a competition but the more replies the merrier! > > Thanks, see you next week ... > > Nick > > Originally posted on 7 February but amazingly no one responded Saw the original post and am guessing no one responded because of the general nature of the question. > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 23204 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newshub.northeast.verio.net!verio!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!torn!news1.bellglobal.com!news20.bellglobal.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38AE084E.B8971C88@honeyroad.com> From: workerbee@honeyroad.com Organization: My Beekeeping Homepage: http://www.honeyroad.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en,fr MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: New Hobbyist Equipment Question References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 33 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 03:04:02 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.172.183.113 X-Trace: news20.bellglobal.com 950929442 206.172.183.113 (Fri, 18 Feb 2000 22:04:02 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 22:04:02 EST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23204 I am considering the same this year. If you buy from the right supplier, the price of a medium will be substantially cheaper than the deep, but will still cost more overall to set up. I am in northern Ontario, and they say theat the advantage of the 3 med, is that the bees can move more freely between the frames during winter months. And the reduced wight of the full supper is a nice advantage aswell, not as back breaking. Allen B Barry Meltzer wrote: > I am just getting into beekeeping and was wondering what the groups > opinions/experiences are with standardizing on medium height supers? > > I see as advantages: > Reduced weight of 3 mediums instead of 2 larges for the main hive (I > live in Massachusetts). > This would hopefully help when my boys get big enough to work on > the hives, if they are interested. > Standardizing on only one size of equipment. > Added flexibility and interchangeability. > Less invested over the long run in different size spare parts. > > The disadvantages: > Less equipment made for the mediums (ie feeders) > ?? > > What do you think? > > Thanks, > Barry Article 23205 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!chnws02.mediaone.net!cyclone.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.8.202!typhoon.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Barry Meltzer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: New Hobbyist Equipment Question Lines: 22 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 02:16:21 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.128.21.130 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: typhoon.ne.mediaone.net 950926581 24.128.21.130 (Fri, 18 Feb 2000 21:16:21 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 21:16:21 EST Organization: Road Runner Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23205 I am just getting into beekeeping and was wondering what the groups opinions/experiences are with standardizing on medium height supers? I see as advantages: Reduced weight of 3 mediums instead of 2 larges for the main hive (I live in Massachusetts). This would hopefully help when my boys get big enough to work on the hives, if they are interested. Standardizing on only one size of equipment. Added flexibility and interchangeability. Less invested over the long run in different size spare parts. The disadvantages: Less equipment made for the mediums (ie feeders) ?? What do you think? Thanks, Barry Article 23206 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsswitch.lcs.mit.edu!newsfeed.usit.net!news1.usit.net!not-for-mail From: gfdavis@usit.net" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: blueridge beekeepers Message-ID: <38adfc77.3618145@news.usit.net> X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/32.230 Lines: 6 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 02:24:24 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.80.168.136 X-Complaints-To: abuse@usit.net X-Trace: news1.usit.net 950927064 216.80.168.136 (Fri, 18 Feb 2000 21:24:24 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 21:24:24 EST Organization: U. S. Internet, Inc. Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23206 Hello, I am looking for email address for blueridge beekeepers association. GD :) Article 23207 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmaster1!bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: Subject: Re: New Hobbyist Equipment Question Lines: 41 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 03:02:17 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.205.17 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 950929337 12.72.205.17 (Sat, 19 Feb 2000 03:02:17 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 03:02:17 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23207 Kind or ironic but as your boys get older the deeps will get lighter. As you get older they get heavier. My bulged disc says go with the mediums. I think the weight/standard issue far outweigh any disadvantages. Other than frames and division board feeders, I can't think of other equipment where the vertical dimension makes a difference, but I am sure there are some. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "Barry Meltzer" wrote in message news:V1nr4.1877$Py3.33659@typhoon.ne.mediaone.net... > I am just getting into beekeeping and was wondering what the groups > opinions/experiences are with standardizing on medium height supers? > > I see as advantages: > Reduced weight of 3 mediums instead of 2 larges for the main hive (I > live in Massachusetts). > This would hopefully help when my boys get big enough to work on > the hives, if they are interested. > Standardizing on only one size of equipment. > Added flexibility and interchangeability. > Less invested over the long run in different size spare parts. > > The disadvantages: > Less equipment made for the mediums (ie feeders) > ?? > > What do you think? > > Thanks, > Barry > > Article 23208 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!hydra.cs.rochester.edu!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.icl.net!colt.net!nyc-news-feed1.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!lsanca1-snf1!news.gtei.net!newsfeed2.earthlink.net!newsfeed.earthlink.net!nntp.earthlink.net!newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Kellen" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Thank You From GrowSearch Lines: 50 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0075_01BF77A4.D99621A0" X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.179.121.118 X-Complaints-To: abuse@earthlink.net X-Trace: newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net 950633842 209.179.121.118 (Tue, 15 Feb 2000 08:57:22 PST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 08:57:22 PST Organization: EarthLink Network, Inc. X-ELN-Date: Tue Feb 15 08:57:22 2000 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 16:57:22 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23208 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0075_01BF77A4.D99621A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable GrowSearch - Search Engine for Farm and Garden GrowSearch is growing by leaps and bounds! Thank you everyone for = stopping by and checking us out. Feel free to stop by anytime at: = http://growsearch.hypermart.net . Take Care! Kellen Weissenbach GrowSearch Admin ------=_NextPart_000_0075_01BF77A4.D99621A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

------=_NextPart_000_0075_01BF77A4.D99621A0-- Article 23209 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!hydra.cs.rochester.edu!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!newsfeed.enteract.com!hermes.visi.com!news-out.visi.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cambridge1-snf1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!bos-service1.ext.raytheon.com!dfw-service2.ext.raytheon.com!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38A986D8.672AC92B@raytheon.com> From: "Larry S. Farris" Reply-To: lsfarris@raytheon.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en,ru MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Candy References: <38A771F8.61586E05@nbnet.nb.ca> <38A84319.FDE4E737@raytheon.com> <38A8640D.52ECEBC5@visi.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 11 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:03:20 -0600 NNTP-Posting-Host: 147.25.198.43 X-Complaints-To: news@icg.raytheon.com X-Trace: dfw-service2.ext.raytheon.com 950634090 147.25.198.43 (Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:01:30 CST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:01:30 CST Organization: Raytheon Company Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23209 Thom Bradley wrote: > No, no, no. Don't use marshmallows. The impurities in the marshmallows > can cause serious problems Not correct, I've been using marshmallow for many years without ANY problems whatsoever! I'm sorry, but your comments about "impurities" in marshmallow is just unfounded. Article 23210 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!news.sgi.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!remarQ70!remarQ.com!supernews.com!remarQ69!gxsn.com!not-for-mail From: "Christopher Dainton" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bee Keeping in your garden Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 22:55:42 -0000 Organization: GXSN Lines: 17 Message-ID: <88cm4q$6g$1@gxsn.com> References: <87sfl2$gd0$1@news.beeb.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 195.147.120.44 X-Trace: 950655962 1NNUCNF1G782CC393C gxsn.com X-Complaints-To: abuse@gxsn.com X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.5 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23210 Perhaps this might help if you find your garden is not suitable My friend put a notice in the window of a rural post office and was surprised at the favourable response by some local farmers. He now keeps his bees in a fruit growers orchard. Best wishes Chris Murray McGregor wrote in message ... >>It would be interesting to hear peoples comments on the viability of a hive >>in the garden... >> Article 23211 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!newshost.nmt.edu!newshost.lanl.gov!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newspeer1.nac.net!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive-killer Mockingbird? Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 12:33:57 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 14 Message-ID: <38a7f5fa.141811132@news1.radix.net> References: <87vkao$sn5$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> <20000214064812.28805.00003404@ng-fw1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p14.a1.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23211 On 14 Feb 2000 11:48:12 GMT, hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan) wrote: >>Now I have >>a woodpecker too so I am now making some mesh cages to fit round the whole > >wouldn't a shotgun work a little better ???? > > >Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC > I don't think the UK has the "Right to bear arms" that we do. Greg the beekeep Article 23212 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!remarQ70!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQ66!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: Judy and Dave Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: New Hobbyist Equipment Question Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 09:01:11 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 45 Message-ID: <38AEA227.52FDEA53@fuse.net> References: Reply-To: dublgully@fuse.net X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en]C-CCK-MCD compaq (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23212 Barry: We are hobbyist beekeepers. 7 hives overwintered. We use deep boxes for the bees brood and food boxes. All of our honey supers are Illinois depth. If we were MORE organized, we would consider starting with all Illinois supers. However, being as we are, grabbing a box when we need it. Hiving a swarm as quickly as can be. And all kinds of other excuses. We have to keep our supers and our hive bodies identified easily. We know that the supers have never had any treatments in them or on when they were on. All of the hive bodies and drawn frames are contaminated. The super boxes, frames and drawn wax are clean. And can be used for honey/eating. It is as simple as being disorganized. If you use all the same size, remember that you need to separate your treatment boxes from your honey boxes. Judy in Kentucky Barry Meltzer wrote: > I am just getting into beekeeping and was wondering what the groups > opinions/experiences are with standardizing on medium height supers? > > I see as advantages: > Reduced weight of 3 mediums instead of 2 larges for the main hive (I > live in Massachusetts). > This would hopefully help when my boys get big enough to work on > the hives, if they are interested. > Standardizing on only one size of equipment. > Added flexibility and interchangeability. > Less invested over the long run in different size spare parts. > > The disadvantages: > Less equipment made for the mediums (ie feeders) > ?? > > What do you think? > > Thanks, > Barry Article 23213 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Message-ID: <38AE9747.D637162D@together.net> Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 08:14:47 -0500 From: Michael Palmer Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Organization: French Hill Apiaries X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-DIAL (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: splitting hives References: <38ac93e5.784971@news.usit.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-102-tnt-btvt-01.ramp.together.net X-Trace: 19 Feb 2000 08:23:58 -0500, dial-102-tnt-btvt-01.ramp.together.net Lines: 37 Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!news-out.uswest.net!news.together.net!dial-102-tnt-btvt-01.ramp.together.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23213 First, how strong is strong? Here in northern Vermont, I evaluate my colonies strength at the beginning of the first major flow of the season(dandelion). Through experience, I know that a colony with a good queen, and 5 or 6 frames of brood, will build up to full strength for the main flow in June, without swarming. Colonies much stronger than this are at risk of swarming after dandelions, so I split them. That being said, here's how I make my splits. I remove 2 or 3 frames of brood from the parent colony. One should be a good larvae filled frame. Shake all the bees back into the parent, and place them into an empty hive body. Next to the larvae frame, place a frame of pollen. On the other side of the brood, place a comb of honey. Replace the combs taken with comb or foundation(center remaining brood first). Place a queen excluder on the parent. Place your hive body with the beeless brood on top of the excluder. Fill the remaining spaces in the nuc with combs. Cover. Remove nuc the next day. It will be filled with bees, but no queen. Nurse bees will have gone through the excluder to care for the brood, and they will stay with the nuc(old bees will fly home). Place nuc on a new stand, and give a caged queen, cell, or let them raise a new queen. This nuc can also be placed above a colony that needs to be requeened. Place it on top of the inner cover(close the escape hole with two or three layers of duct tape). Place the nuc's entrance to the back. In three weeks or so, you'll have a nice requeening unit. Remember, do it early enough so the parent can get built back up in time for the main flow. Mike gfdavis@usit.net wrote: > Hello, > I have 2 stong hives with one in it's second year. It swarmed twice > last year, but seemed to build back up good. I am interested in making > a split to expand. I also have two other hives that are doing well for > their first year so far still in hives no honey from them last year. I > want to produce a good honey crop this year I left supers on all 4 > hives for the winter. What is my best bet for the upcoming year. Article 23214 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38AEA464.C11BFB99@hotmail.com> From: JGinNY X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Question about moving hives References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 23 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 14:04:10 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.136 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 950969050 24.92.236.136 (Sat, 19 Feb 2000 09:04:10 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 09:04:10 EST Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23214 Michel- No, I wouldn't advise moving them now! You are right, the clusters will become very disturbed. If you were picking them up and moving them a couple hundred feed that would be OK, but in or on a vehicle, for that large distance, no way. They will be all discombobulated (love that word) within a very short time. The clusters will break up, and the bees will get all panicky. I can't say for sure, but my guess is that they would not re-cluster for several hours after coming to rest, if at all. At those temperatures, and especially if they were to be moved on an open vehicle, there's no way. The _best_ thing to do is wait until mid-April, and screen them off in the evening, the day before a day when the weather will be well above 55 degrees. Then when they get to the new site, it will be warm enough for them to cluster back up with no problem. Besides, the hives will be considerably lighter by then, and easier to move. Good luck with 'em. Joel nr. Ithaca, NY Article 23215 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38AEA9FC.FEFACF44@hotmail.com> From: JGinNY X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: New Hobbyist Equipment Question References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 46 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 14:28:03 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.136 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 950970483 24.92.236.136 (Sat, 19 Feb 2000 09:28:03 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 09:28:03 EST Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23215 Some main disadvantages of medium-depth brood chambers would be: - more expensive per unit of comb area -30 combs vs. 20 (if you're talking about 3 med.'s vs. 2 deeps); can take more time to assess colony condition, or find queen -more inevitable burr comb between stories (the bees connect the brood frames together, vertically, to some extent) Also, there is more frame wood in the brood nest, which some say can interrupt the queen's laying pattern. It's probably not a big deal, though. In any case, the many advantages do out"weigh" the disadvantages, for many, and LOTS of people are just using mediums now, exclusively. I know a couple of commercial guys who are gradually switching over their apiaries, getting rid of the deep equipment. ONE more point in favor of the mediums for brood: You can get grooved top-bar/grooved bottom-bar frames, and use good old crimp-wired beeswax foundation, very easily. Obtain the foundation *without* the hooks at the top of the sheets. (Last I knew, Dadant offers it.) To install the foundation in a frame, just bow the sheet a little, and pop it into the top and bottom frame grooves. From what I'm told, that's all that is necessary. (No cross-wiring, wedge-nailing or whatever.) The foundation is so shallow, the vertical wires hold it securely, and it sets straight in the frame. The bees cement it all up when they draw the foundation, and so the resulting comb is plenty strong. You could also pop a couple of bobby pins thru the end bars, to slip over the edges of the sheet, and that will also help to hold it vertically in the frame. It also adds some structural strength. The shallower bodies can make for better overwintering, it's claimed, because the cluster has the breaks between the boxes in which to move hoizontally. They can reposition themselves more easily than with deep chambers. It helps the cluster to migrate sideways to food stores, and maintains its continuity a little better. If I were starting from scratch, I'd go with the mediums, too. Joel nr. Ithaca, NY (... & once from Woburn) Article 23216 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!pitt.edu!newsflash.concordia.ca!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!logbridge.uoregon.edu!nntp.newsfirst.net!dingus.crosslink.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38AC6153.D8612600@crosslink.net> Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 21:00:04 +0000 From: "L.E.G." Reply-To: gmt@crosslink.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: swarm control Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Organization: CrossLink Internet Services 1-888-4-CROSSLINK Cache-Post-Path: pizza.crosslink.net!unknown@dyn07.c5200-1.king-george.246.crosslink.net X-Cache: nntpcache 2.3.3 (see http://www.nntpcache.org/) Lines: 21 NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.246.124.14 X-Trace: dingus.crosslink.net 950838755 27572 206.246.124.14 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23216 Hello Group!! I read a book on Beekeeping at Buckfast Abbey by Brother Adam, and it had some interesting points on swarm prevention. I will try to make this short.. 1. Reversing at proper time. 2. Making each hive draw at least 4 frames of wax in each box (which are modified 12 frame Dadant hives), making the wax switch at the time of reversing. 3. Also at time of reversing replace bottom board with freash clean one, this is not only for swarm control, but to knock down diseases. All of these points seem to lean toward the fact that bees seem to like a nice clean, freash and tidy place to stay. Once they have trashed one place to live they look for another clean one .. I'm not sure if this makes sense to any one else, but I'll try it this year and report back in June.. Any feedback or info. is needed and welcome... Thanks L.E.G. Article 23217 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!nyc-news-feed1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!colt.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Winter Hive Kill Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 11:00:07 +0000 Message-ID: <9NcKrMA3Moq4EwP1@kilty.demon.co.uk> References: <20000214203736.28350.00003457@ng-cd1.aol.com> <38A8DD99.154ACB9E@twcny.rr.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 950699572 nnrp-14:5593 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 56 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23217 In article <38A8DD99.154ACB9E@twcny.rr.com>, JGinNY writes >Fluvalinate-contaminated combs -- It's been shown that residues do get into the >wax. early work in Europe showed this. The suspicion was always that it was associated with home-made treatments using miticides for sheep. > It is a concern, but the formulation in Apistan is not water-soluble >(unless >I am mistaken - ?). > So it should not show up as residues in the honey. nor has it, so far as I know Of >course, the mfr. directions state that the strips are not to be in the hive when >honey is being stored in the surplus supers. The instructions are actually tougher than I originally thought: honey supers are supposed to be removed throughout the time of treatment. This would mean mid October for us over here in West Cornwall (UK). We could just get a treatment going between the beginning of August and the middle of September. But this conflicts with the instructions to treat *after* the last honey flow. I will now have to go back to the publications on it. Please help with this issue. Why this would make much >difference >is not clear (--to me), as nectar is first stored in lower (brood chamber) combs >by house-bees before being moved up into the supers. The brood combs having >been >exposed to fluvalinate before, they would be expected to have some residue in >them. So it is still coming in contact with the nectar, no matter what. > >> if goldenrod and aster are North American natives (Anybody with >> a field guide who can confirm this?), then the honey bees were only introduced >> to them a few hundred years ago. Maybe the honey bees evolved to overwinter on >> slower granulating honey. ivy here in UK also granulates in the comb along with some other honeys. >Aster and goldenrod both native spp. >When there are large quantities of granulated stores in the hives in the spring, >the bees put a LOT of effort into gathering water. They can often be seen all >over the ground on warm days in Mar./Apr., near spots where there are springs, >sun-warmed puddles, or areas of water-saturated grass. Evidently they deposit >water in the cells of granulated honey and can dissolve or dilute the crystals. >The behavior is to me remarkable -- I'm not sure just what they do to accomplish >this, & wonder if it has been described in detail. (Has anyone on ng ever made >observations on this?) no, but I have read articles suggesting bees work best when fed sugar at 50 percent. Higher concentrations (including honey stores used for producing brood food) means water to dilute it first. I have seen no work on how they add the water and it would be interesting to hear about observations on this. -- James Kilty Article 23218 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!nyc-news-feed1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!colt.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Need your input - with only 24 hours to go! Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 11:06:39 +0000 Message-ID: References: <3G%p4.5613$s02.153911@nnrp3.clara.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 950699573 nnrp-14:5593 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 18 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23218 In article <3G%p4.5613$s02.153911@nnrp3.clara.net>, Nick Templar writes >Originally posted on 7 February but amazingly no one responded I did on 8th Feb. Here's a copy. "keeping records with excel usenet (this newsgroup) making up our association's monthly newsletter emailing fiends/committee members to organise events orders for my beekeeping needs making up brochures on my Bee Centre making up a display of pictures and text to show to visitors to my Bee Centre while I am not there (most of the time) Enjoy yourself" -- James Kilty Article 23219 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!pitt.edu!newsflash.concordia.ca!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!chnws02.mediaone.net!cyclone.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.8.202!typhoon.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Barry Meltzer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <38AEA227.52FDEA53@fuse.net> Subject: Re: New Hobbyist Equipment Question Lines: 68 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 19:42:02 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.128.21.130 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: typhoon.ne.mediaone.net 950989322 24.128.21.130 (Sat, 19 Feb 2000 14:42:02 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 14:42:02 EST Organization: Road Runner Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23219 OK, so here is where my ignorance becomes apparent. They have not covered treatments yet in the classes I am attending (put on by the local beekeepers association). So, what kind of treatments would there be that would contaminate the equipment? This could be a serious concern. Thanks, Barry Judy and Dave wrote in message news:38AEA227.52FDEA53@fuse.net... > Barry: > > We are hobbyist beekeepers. 7 hives overwintered. > > We use deep boxes for the bees brood and food boxes. All of our honey supers > are Illinois depth. > > If we were MORE organized, we would consider starting with all Illinois supers. > However, being as we are, grabbing a box when we need it. Hiving a swarm as > quickly as can be. And all kinds of other excuses. We have to keep our supers > and our hive bodies identified easily. We know that the supers have never had > any treatments in them or on when they were on. All of the hive bodies and > drawn frames are contaminated. The super boxes, frames and drawn wax are > clean. And can be used for honey/eating. > > It is as simple as being disorganized. If you use all the same size, remember > that you need to separate your treatment boxes from your honey boxes. > > Judy in Kentucky > > Barry Meltzer wrote: > > > I am just getting into beekeeping and was wondering what the groups > > opinions/experiences are with standardizing on medium height supers? > > > > I see as advantages: > > Reduced weight of 3 mediums instead of 2 larges for the main hive (I > > live in Massachusetts). > > This would hopefully help when my boys get big enough to work on > > the hives, if they are interested. > > Standardizing on only one size of equipment. > > Added flexibility and interchangeability. > > Less invested over the long run in different size spare parts. > > > > The disadvantages: > > Less equipment made for the mediums (ie feeders) > > ?? > > > > What do you think? > > > > Thanks, > > Barry > > > Article 23220 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!nyc-news-feed1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!colt.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Candy Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 11:19:39 +0000 Message-ID: References: <38A771F8.61586E05@nbnet.nb.ca> <38A84319.FDE4E737@raytheon.com> <38A8640D.52ECEBC5@visi.net> <38A986D8.672AC92B@raytheon.com> <38A995CF.96A49866@zzclinic.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 950703221 nnrp-03:25641 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 13 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23220 In article <38A995CF.96A49866@zzclinic.net>, Bill Truesdell writes >I listened to George Imire and Tony Jadczak on how they kept bees. Is this published anywhere? >Many controlled scientific studies show that the best winter and spring >feed is granualted sugar in over 30% solution, but not high enough to >crystallize. Anything else is lower on the food chain, including honey! Can you dig out references (I mentioned 50 % as optimal in another thread). Thanks (I teach a course and edit a newsletter so any info like this will be passed on to students and members. They will appreciate it). -- James Kilty Article 23221 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38AF20BD.AB365EBF@hotmail.com> From: JGinNY X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: New Hobbyist Equipment Question References: <38AEA227.52FDEA53@fuse.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 33 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 22:54:41 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.136 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 951000881 24.92.236.136 (Sat, 19 Feb 2000 17:54:41 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 17:54:41 EST Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23221 Judy and Dave wrote > > > > remember that you need to separate your treatment boxes from your honey > boxes. > Nope! --> Not at all necessary, and usually not considered a concern, either. Miticides are not supposed to be in the hive when honey-supers are on, and _honey_ does not pick up residues from it anyway. It can't. If you were going to eat the comb (comb honey), or even if you were planning to extract it, Apistan would not be present the hive when the combs were being drawn, filled and capped. Still, newly gathered nectar is stored in brood combs, before being moved up into the honey supers. The nectar _is_ coming in contact with brood-comb wax, whether you care or not. And therefore, it's possible (or rather probable) that the nectar is coming in contact with wax containing at least some fluvalinate residues. It isn't a problem, because they don't diffuse into the nectar. The fluvalinate formulation in Apistan is not water-soluble. Don't worry about keeping equipment separated for this reason. A _good_ reason to keep the honey-super combs separate from brood combs (whenever you can) is that the super combs will remain very light, without accumulations of coccoons and pollen. This will make them MUCH less attractive to wax moths. Consolidate super combs that have never had brood in them together, when you are storing them, to help prevent moth-larvae damage. Article 23222 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38AF2B93.19AB34F1@hotmail.com> From: JGinNY X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: New Hobbyist Equipment Question References: <38AEA227.52FDEA53@fuse.net> <38AF2186.9C4EB26F@fuse.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 14 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 23:40:57 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.136 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 951003657 24.92.236.136 (Sat, 19 Feb 2000 18:40:57 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 18:40:57 EST Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23222 > Tests have been done and I think some wax can contain some residuals of the > treatments. That is why you would never use a box that had treatments in it to > gather honey for your own use. Makes no difference. Not anything to be concerned about. Are people teaching this? If you are making comb honey, the combs are constructed while apistan is absent from the hive. Comb honey consists of newly-built (sometimes called "virgin") comb. You wouldn't want to eat comb that had ever been used previously, or (esp.) any that had been used for brood before. It would be way too tough. Article 23223 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Bill Skriba" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Michigan Beekepeers Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 15:45:57 -0500 Lines: 9 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.18.227.48 Message-ID: <38ac5dda@news.sensible-net.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.18.236.12 X-Trace: 17 Feb 2000 14:35:13 -0600, 208.18.236.12 Organization: Newsfeeds.com http://www.newsfeeds.com 73,000+ UNCENSORED Newsgroups. X-Report: Report abuse to abuse@newsfeeds.com X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers, INCLUDING the body X-Abuse-Info2: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!feed.newsfeeds.com!newsfeeds.com!pull.newsfeeds.com.!news.sensible-net.com!208.18.227.48 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23223 Hello Again, a couple months back I was interested in hearing from beekeepers in Michigan. I thank the gentlemen that replied, but could you please resend your email addresses to me privately, as my system crashed and all my addresses were deleted. Thanks again, Bill Skriba Ithaca, MI -----------== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News ==---------- http://www.newsfeeds.com The Largest Usenet Servers in the World! ------== Over 73,000 Newsgroups - Including Dedicated Binaries Servers ==----- Article 23224 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!remarQ70!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQ66!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: Judy and Dave Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: New Hobbyist Equipment Question Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 18:04:38 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 91 Message-ID: <38AF2186.9C4EB26F@fuse.net> References: <38AEA227.52FDEA53@fuse.net> Reply-To: dublgully@fuse.net X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en]C-CCK-MCD compaq (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23224 I can understand this. We, also, will not be covering treatments, diseases and pest until next month. Honeybees are subject to many different diseases and also to mites. There is great discussion concerning whether or not a beekeeper should treat his hives to help his bees survive. Our advice to new beekeepers is to treat. You can always change and not treat in the future. But, at this time, why take the chance. For an established beekeeper to lose a hive or two, oh well. But, for a new beekeeper to lose his only hive can be disheartening. There are some really great books and pamphlets that go into detail about each of the diseases, syndromes, pests and predators. I will just touch on the few that are almost always mentioned. American Foulbrood - Foulbrood spores live for almost forever. If you start with brand new equipment and have no neighbors that are beekeepers or ever were and have no equipment stored in their barns and garages, you have a good chance of never seeing any foulbrood. The Bee Lab at Beltsville has some foulbrood spores that are, I think, at least over 75 years old. They bring it out once a year and test for viability. It is still viable. The treatment, Terramycin, is what Americans use for the disease. Terramycin will not kill the foulbrood, but it can control the disease to the extent that if hives have it, they will not die from it. The common way to treat is mixed with powdered sugar and sprinkled around the perimeter of the brood nest frames. Nosema - Nosema is a disease that weakens the bees. It is common in wet weather or wet locations. Cool, damp locations are also known for it. Nosema can be caused by stress. (Bees that are shipped in a small wire cage for 2 or 3 days are, in my opinion, stressed) Bees that have Nosema usually have dysentery. They are very weak and crawl around in front of the hive. They often lose their sting reflex. Fumidil B is used to treat the Nosema. The common way to treat is mixed with sugar syrup and fed to the hives. Tracheal mites - These mites are microscopic and live in the trachea of the honeybee. They weaken the bees and open the hive to other disorders. The common treatment for these mites is Menthol, (usually a packet set on the frames and allowed to evaporate to make fumes that the bees breathe). Crisco patties mixed with sugar can be fed to the bees, these patties usually don't kill the mites, but help to control them. Varroa mites - These little mites can be seen with the naked eye. Usually found in brood cells. Best is drone cells. Heavy infestations, the mites can be seen on the forward portion of the thorax of the bees. There are currently 3 treatments that can be used for varroa treatment. Not all are approved in all states. Your beekeeping assoc. will know which is approved and which is not. These would be Apistan strips, Coumaphos and Formic Acid Gel. Small Hive Beetle. I am not sure where you are located. We have not yet found the small hive beetle in Ky. Coumaphos is used for this bug, also. Of all of the above treatments, NONE should be on the hive when you are collecting honey. All but the crisco grease patty, MAY NOT be present in the hive when you are collecting honey. Each of the treatments have different time frames for use. But the package inserts all stress to remove honey supers before treatment and wait a certain amount of time after treatment to put the supers back on. Tests have been done and I think some wax can contain some residuals of the treatments. That is why you would never use a box that had treatments in it to gather honey for your own use. I am sure that there is much I have skimmed over. And I, again, am only relating what we tell our local new beekeepers. Once you have more experience, you may want to test the alternative methods to control diseases and pests. Bottom line is, you never want to have any of these treatments present in any of the honey that you eat, or sell. I am sorry that my use of the contaminate was a bit shocking. It is the only way I know to avoid problems later. ;o} Of course, your hive bodies can be cleaned or scorched or bleached. I was generally referring to the drawn combs in the frames with the term equipment. But, once you have your drawn foundation, you will want to treat it as gold. It has just about that much value. Hope this helps. Judy in Kentucky Barry Meltzer wrote: > OK, so here is where my ignorance becomes apparent. They have not covered > treatments yet in the classes I am attending (put on by the local beekeepers > association). > > So, what kind of treatments would there be that would contaminate the > equipment? This could be a serious concern. > > Thanks, > Barry Article 23225 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Message-ID: <38AAD4EE.DF4D5165@zzclinic.net> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 11:48:46 -0500 From: Bill Truesdell X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.61 [en] (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping To: James Kilty Subject: Re: Candy References: <38A771F8.61586E05@nbnet.nb.ca> <38A84319.FDE4E737@raytheon.com> <38A8640D.52ECEBC5@visi.net> <38A986D8.672AC92B@raytheon.com> <38A995CF.96A49866@zzclinic.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit NNTP-Posting-Host: d-p4-71.clinic.net X-Trace: 16 Feb 2000 16:47:55 GMT, d-p4-71.clinic.net Lines: 43 Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!nyc-news-feed1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!colt.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!News.Destek.net!d-p4-71.clinic.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23225 James Kilty wrote: > > In article <38A995CF.96A49866@zzclinic.net>, Bill Truesdell t@zzclinic.net> writes > >I listened to George Imire and Tony Jadczak on how they kept bees. > Is this published anywhere? > >Many controlled scientific studies show that the best winter and spring > >feed is granualted sugar in over 30% solution, but not high enough to > >crystallize. Anything else is lower on the food chain, including honey! > Can you dig out references (I mentioned 50 % as optimal in another > thread). Thanks (I teach a course and edit a newsletter so any info like > this will be passed on to students and members. They will appreciate > it). > -- > James Kilty Here is what I recently posted on the Bee List. Bill T HCFS is not as good as granulated sugar for bee feed. But it is not as bad as other feeds. But if not prepared properly, can be deadly. Studies by Baily writing in the 1966 Journal of Apiculture Research in England showed that all the other winter feeds caused increased bee mortality to some degree. In many cases, you will never see it because the normal time for feeding is spring buildup and it is warm enough for bees to void as well as die outside the hive. When you are talking about a buildup of thousands, some hundreds will never be seen by the bee keeper. The studies included honey, sugar, sugar with additives and HCFS. The final conclusion was sugar dissolved in water was the best feed, as long as the solution is greater than 30% sugar. Too thin a syrup was bad. Which is why honey that crystallizes easily is bad for overwintering. The bees eat the non-crystalized, diluted syrup. Even boiling was worse than dissolving at temp. High HMF seemes to be the culprit in causing problems. Some HCFS, if processed incorrectly or by acid hydrolysis will have high concentrations of HMF wich will bring on dysentary and bee deaths. We have gone over this often in the past, and most who see no problem live in climates that allow winter clensing flights. Like politics, All beekeeping is local. Bill Truesdell Bath, ME -- If there is a zz before clinic.net, remove it to reply directly. Article 23226 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!nyc-news-feed1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!colt.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!remarQ70!remarQ.com!supernews.com!rQ66!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "WEC" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Candy Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 17:46:58 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 51 Message-ID: References: <38A771F8.61586E05@nbnet.nb.ca> <38A84319.FDE4E737@raytheon.com> <38A8640D.52ECEBC5@visi.net> <38A986D8.672AC92B@raytheon.com> <38A995CF.96A49866@zzclinic.net> <38AAD4EE.DF4D5165@zzclinic.net> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23226 Is that over 30% by volume, i.e. 3+ parts sugar to 7 parts water? BC Bill Truesdell wrote in message <38AAD4EE.DF4D5165@zzclinic.net>... >James Kilty wrote: >> >> In article <38A995CF.96A49866@zzclinic.net>, Bill Truesdell > t@zzclinic.net> writes >> >I listened to George Imire and Tony Jadczak on how they kept bees. >> Is this published anywhere? >> >Many controlled scientific studies show that the best winter and spring >> >feed is granualted sugar in over 30% solution, but not high enough to >> >crystallize. Anything else is lower on the food chain, including honey! >> Can you dig out references (I mentioned 50 % as optimal in another >> thread). Thanks (I teach a course and edit a newsletter so any info like >> this will be passed on to students and members. They will appreciate >> it). >> -- >> James Kilty > >Here is what I recently posted on the Bee List. >Bill T > >HCFS is not as good as granulated sugar for bee feed. But it is not as bad >as other feeds. But if not prepared properly, can be deadly. >Studies by Baily writing in the 1966 Journal of Apiculture Research in >England showed that all the other winter feeds caused increased bee >mortality to some degree. In many cases, you will never see it because the >normal time for feeding is spring buildup and it is warm enough for bees to >void as well as die outside the hive. When you are talking about a buildup >of thousands, some hundreds will never be seen by the bee keeper. >The studies included honey, sugar, sugar with additives and HCFS. The final >conclusion was sugar dissolved in water was the best feed, as long as the >solution is greater than 30% sugar. Too thin a syrup was bad. Which is why >honey that crystallizes easily is bad for overwintering. The bees eat the >non-crystalized, diluted syrup. Even boiling was worse than dissolving at >temp. High HMF seemes to be the culprit in causing problems. Some HCFS, if >processed incorrectly or by acid hydrolysis will have high concentrations >of HMF wich will bring on dysentary and bee deaths. >We have gone over this often in the past, and most who see no problem live >in climates that allow winter clensing flights. >Like politics, All beekeeping is local. >Bill Truesdell >Bath, ME > >-- >If there is a zz before clinic.net, remove it to reply directly. Article 23227 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!newspeer.monmouth.com!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: jhdavila Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: find where to buy queens in Mexico Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 19:08:50 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 10 Message-ID: <88pe41$nsh$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 148.233.196.87 X-Article-Creation-Date: Sun Feb 20 19:08:50 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; Windows 95; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x28.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 148.233.196.87 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDjhdavila Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23227 Please if some know where to buy good queens in Mexico and frames I appreciate any information. Thanks Javier Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 23228 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!SonOfMaze.dpo.uab.edu!news.uah.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <38B046A7.A1177E9E@hotmail.com> From: JGinNY X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: swarm control References: <38AC6153.D8612600@crosslink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 52 Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 19:48:36 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.136 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 951076116 24.92.236.136 (Sun, 20 Feb 2000 14:48:36 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 14:48:36 EST Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23228 > > 1. Reversing at proper time. Well, if the colony is in double brood chambers. During winter the bees tend to migrate up into the upper box, as they consume their winter food supplies. In temperate areas, at least. When brood rearing resumes, then, it is usually mainly in the upper box. If the chambers aren' reversed in the spring, the bees can be reluctant to make good use of the available comb space downstairs. (They tend to expand the nest "upward" and are slow to move back down on their own.) > 2. Making each hive draw > at least 4 frames of wax in each box (which are modified 12 frame Dadant > hives), making the wax switch at the time of reversing. A 12- frame "Buckfast Dadant" hive (or 11-fr. Modified Dadant hive) is intended to be used as a single brood-chamber hive only. Management for these large hives is somewhat different than for double-brood chambers. Reversing is not done, rather, the brood is gradually "spread" during the spring, so the bees are allowed to occupy more and more combs, until the nest fills the entire chamber. Basically. the only time reversing might be resorted to with the large hives would be when a shallow super of honey was left on as extra food reserves over winter). Another way to allow the bees to satisfy their comb-building ambitions is to use widely-spaced frames in the honey-supers. Such as 8 frames spaced evenly across a 10-fr. super. The bees can then build out the combs so they are very thick. It makes uncapping easier later on. > 3. Also at time of > reversing replacebottom board with freash clean one, this is not only for > swarm control, > but to knock down diseases. My impression is that this would have little or nothing at all to do with the urge for swarming. It is a good idea to have clean floors, but all the beekeepers I know just scrape the litter off of them during the first spring inspection. That's the extent of it. If a bottom-board is really soaked and mildewy I might replace it with a clean, dry one, but in time they dry off OK anyway. > All of these points seem to lean toward the fact that > bees seem to like a nice clean, freash and tidy place to stay. Once they > have trashed one place to live they look for another clean one . Hmmm. I dunno. Never heard that theory before. I have seen colonies in some pretty ugly trees that were pretty filthy inside, and as far as I know they didn't swarm very often. I've also seen swarms take up residence in old equipment that was pretty damn foul, and they seemed to be content with their home just the same ( if a bunch of bees can be content...). Article 23229 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!rutgers!news.sgi.com!newshub.sdsu.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.netins.net!uunet!ffx.uu.net!xyzzy!nntp From: "Billy Y. Smart II" Subject: Re: FW: Varroa Test X-Nntp-Posting-Host: rs496769.ks.boeing.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------6597A1CBC54963AA65248C99" Message-ID: <38AB859A.80DAE920@nospam.boeing.com> Sender: nntp@news.boeing.com (Boeing NNTP News Access) Organization: Tooling Numeric Control Programming - Wichita Division X-Accept-Language: en References: Mime-Version: 1.0 Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 05:22:34 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.61 [en] (X11; U; AIX 4.3) Lines: 42 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23229 --------------6597A1CBC54963AA65248C99 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Allen Dick wrote: > Place a tablespoonful of confectionary sugar in a pint jar along with What is confectionary sugar? -- Billy Y. Smart II /* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the */ /* Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental. */ /* Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply */ --------------6597A1CBC54963AA65248C99 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Allen Dick wrote:
Place a tablespoonful of confectionary sugar in a pint jar along with



What is confectionary sugar?



-- 
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */    
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */

 

--------------6597A1CBC54963AA65248C99--



Article 23230 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "bissomoro" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <38A771F8.61586E05@nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: R: Candy 
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Gunter Vautz  wrote in message
38A771F8.61586E05@nbnet.nb.ca...
> Could somebody help me out with a recipe for sugar candy?
> Thanks Gunter
Hi; put normal sugar and mill it till castor sugar into a coffe-mill or
similar; on the other side prepare your own honey (or of known provenance,
to prevent disease transmission): if honey is crystallized, warm it in water
(max 40╟C) till it turns fluid. Mix sugar (1 Kg.) and honey (0,3 Kg.)
together till you obtain a compact dough; cut it into nylon bags; cut a hole
on the bag and put it on the top of the hive, over the feed hole. If bees
don't eat candy, it means that they aren't hungry.
Good luck.
Giorgio Perissinotto, Venice




Article 23231 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Peter Amschel 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: New Hobbyist Equipment Question
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References:  
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In article , 
bmeltz@mediaone.net says...
> Given that the part of the hive in question is really for the bee's use,
> which method (2 deeps or 3 mediums) do you think they would prefer?
> 
IMO for a hobby user I think they prefer the TBH



Article 23232 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: froggy4450@aol.com (Froggy4450)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Lost hives
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djchild wrote:
<>

   How did the hives look in the fall? If there was no honey left, and no bees
either, it is possible that the hives collapsed in the fall and were robbed
out.
   The way you can tell is by looking at the comb where honey was stored. Do
the edges appear frayed, or roughly torn open? The evidence of robbing will be
on the combs.
   I got a vivid robbing lesson last year when I saw two of an associate of
mine's hives collapse in a robbing spree. Since he keeps his hives near my
work, I could walk out at lunch and watch the travesty unfold. 
   He placed wet supers about 6 feet in front of the two hives to be robbed.
The activity quickly moved to the hives, which we found out later both had bad
infestations of American foulbrood. 
   It wasn't just bees robbing. Yellowjackets, bumblebees and bald-faced
hornets were also busy.
   For the sake of accuracy, several weeks ago I posted to this ng about a
potential mentor who had two hives collapse from American foulbrood. That was
not, in fact, what I think killed them. They did have the foulbrood pretty bad,
but it was the robbing that did them in.
John


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From: "Freddie Cooke" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Candy
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 21:52:22 -0000
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I would say it depends on the make.
Naturally constituted Marsh mallow made from pure cane sugars and tincture
of the herb may well have a beneficial effect.
To be frank I wouldn't eat the stuff they sell by that name in my local
supermarket myself because of the number of synthetic colourants and flavour
enhancers.
Based solely on my own experiences using candy in the past I found that one
made using pure cane sugars in the form of a powder used for making fondant
icing made a really good mix.  I usually get it for free from a local
industrial bakery.  They discard any they have left over at the end of the
day.
I have seen a number of accounts in books and papers dating back to the
beginning of the century where Icing Sugar has been recommended because it
is so much easier to make into a candy.  I presume this is something to do
with the particle size and how it affect water absorption.
Generally, as long as the bees can fly every day to evacuate you will not
have any enteric problems.  Fondant is recommended in winter solely because
of its low water content compared with syrup and the benefits this has on
humidity in the hive and the lower levels of fanning required.  the bees are
able to feed without raising the levels of colony activity too high I guess.
 with Larry S. Farris  wrote in message
news:38A986D8.672AC92B@raytheon.com...
> Thom Bradley wrote:
>
> >         No, no, no. Don't use marshmallows. The impurities in the
marshmallows
> > can cause serious problems
>
> Not correct, I've been using marshmallow for many years without
> ANY problems whatsoever!  I'm sorry, but your comments about
> "impurities" in marshmallow is just unfounded.
>
>
>




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From: Glenn West 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: New Hobbyist Equipment Question
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 02:44:36 GMT
Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy.
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In article ,
  "Barry Meltzer"  wrote:
> OK, so here is where my ignorance becomes apparent.  They have not
covered
> treatments yet in the classes I am attending (put on by the local
beekeepers
> association).
>
> So, what kind of treatments would there be that would contaminate the
> equipment?  This could be a serious concern.

Apistan for varroa mite treatment.

>
> Thanks,
> Barry
>
> Judy and Dave  wrote in message
> news:38AEA227.52FDEA53@fuse.net...
> > Barry:
> >
> > We are hobbyist beekeepers.  7 hives overwintered.
> >
> > We use deep boxes for the bees brood and food boxes.  All of our
honey
> supers
> > are Illinois depth.
> >
> > If we were MORE organized, we would consider starting with all
Illinois
> supers.
> > However, being as we are, grabbing a box when we need it.  Hiving a
swarm
> as
> > quickly as can be.  And all kinds of other excuses.  We have to
keep our
> supers
> > and our hive bodies identified easily.  We know that the supers
have never
> had
> > any treatments in them or on when they were on.  All of the hive
bodies
> and
> > drawn frames are contaminated.  The super boxes, frames and drawn
wax are
> > clean.  And can be used for honey/eating.
> >
> > It is as simple as being disorganized.  If you use all the same
size,
> remember
> > that you need to separate your treatment boxes from your honey
boxes.
> >
> > Judy in Kentucky
> >
> > Barry Meltzer wrote:
> >
> > > I am just getting into beekeeping and was wondering what the
groups
> > > opinions/experiences are with standardizing on medium height
supers?
> > >
> > > I see as advantages:
> > >     Reduced weight of 3 mediums instead of 2 larges for the main
hive (I
> > > live in Massachusetts).
> > >             This would hopefully help when my boys get big enough
to
> work on
> > > the hives, if they are interested.
> > >     Standardizing on only one size of equipment.
> > >             Added flexibility and interchangeability.
> > >             Less invested over the long run in different size
spare
> parts.
> > >
> > > The disadvantages:
> > >     Less equipment made for the mediums (ie feeders)
> > >     ??
> > >
> > > What do you think?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Barry
> >
> >
> >
>
>


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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From: Chad Howell 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: super protection
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I was wondering if it's ok to coat new hive bodies with an oil bases
stain with a wood protectant in it. It gets very tiresome priming and
then painting wooden ware. The stain would be much quicker.



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From: "Ernie Scofield" 
Subject: Re: super protection
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I use 8% copper napthanate (Termin-8 from the local Ace hardware, they may
have to order it) mixed at the ratio of 1 part copper to two parts mineral
spirits. Let them dry a month or so.

-- 
Ernie Scofield
Virginia Beach, VA USA

Please remove "nospam"
from my return address to reply.

Chad Howell  wrote in article
<38B09AC8.9E3949A@netnitco.net>...
> I was wondering if it's ok to coat new hive bodies with an oil bases
> stain with a wood protectant in it. It gets very tiresome priming and
> then painting wooden ware. The stain would be much quicker.
> 
> 


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From: "Barry Metz" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping,sci.bio.botany
Subject: can someone please help: Pollen Beetles
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I recently read somewhere of bees being used as a delivery vehicle for a
biological control in the management of Pollen Beetle in Canola Crops.  I
need to know if this pollen beetle is, Meligethes planiusculus.
    The 'pollen beetle Meligethes planiusculus' is being trialled as a
biological control to eliminate a 'weed' Patterson's curse that has become
one of the major honey & pollen sources in SE Australia, where by the way a
lot of Canola is grown.

--
Barry Metz




Article 23238 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Dennis Crutchfield" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: newbee question
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 06:44:02 -0600
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How many of you guys have trouble with bees around your maple taps in early
spring? I was wondering if maple water , has any valuable use. And If a
person was to tap and leave for the bees , will they use it for early spring
sugar. Just a thought
preacher




Article 23239 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Old Drone 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Mesquite Honey.
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Dear All,
Can anyone give me an acurate description of the colour, flavour and
properties of this honey. I need to surprise someone with "knowledge."
My books mention it but it is literally just a mention.
ASAP Please.
Thanks in advance,
Pete.


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From: qualityram@yahoo.ie (Quality RAM)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Lost hives - AFB can(will) follow Varroa
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Just for another tip - Varroasis will bring on all kinds of disease -
AFB included.   Varroa will demoralize the hive to such an extent that
disease will run unchecked.  Robbing is usually an after-thought since
the bees can't defend their home.  AFB is a real killer and robbing
can devastate a full hive in 1-2 days, but varroa is likely the start
of things to come.  

Pay close attention to the health of your hives along with Apistan
resistance.  Attention to detail (pollen substitute, Terramycin,
Crisco, Fumidil-B, multiple approach to varroa - drone trapping,
Apistan, Mineral Oil, etc. etc) and timing on when to give your bees
what they need, when they need it.  If you start with 'mite-resistant'
strains, your bees are already at an advantage.
 (example - check out Sue Cobey's NWC bees at:
http://IRIS.biosci.ohio-state.edu:80/honeybee/breeding/
- among many others selecting for T&V mite resistance).

Two years ago I purchased 30 deeps from a New Mexico beekeeper.  His
claim was that he was an 'organic' beekeeper - meaning no treatment of
any kind for anything.  'WAS' being the key operative here as all of
his hives and his neighbors were dead from 'varroa'.  His hives were
alive that spring but completely demoralized.  He let them limp along
until AFB set in and devastated them.  I picked them up cheap and
quickly came up to speed on AFB - burning & charring all the
woodenware.  Knowing what I do now, buying AFB at any price isn't
'cheap'.

Every now & then I'll pull out a feral hive which has heavy varroa and
those are ALWAYS diseased.  The good news is I'm finding less & less
varroa-infested feral hives than 2-3 years ago.

Matthew  Westall - Castle Rock, CO 


>   For the sake of accuracy, several weeks ago I posted to this ng about a
>potential mentor who had two hives collapse from American foulbrood. That was
>not, in fact, what I think killed them. They did have the foulbrood pretty bad,
>but it was the robbing that did them in.
>John



Article 23241 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Peter Amschel 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Lost hives - AFB can(will) follow Varroa
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In article <38b5043a.199903@news.earthlink.net>, 
qualityram@yahoo.ie says...
> The good news is I'm finding less & less
> varroa-infested feral hives than 2-3 years ago.
> 
> 
I'll make a note of that.


Article 23242 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Craig" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: re: At The Hive Entance book
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 19:10:09 -0500
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I lost the original posting of someone looking for Storchs book At The Hive
Entrance. Dose anyone have the posters e-mail address or know if they found
a copy? The 1999 copy of Betterbee catalog has a reprint for $12.95+sh
1-800-632-3379.

                 Bee well,
                     Craig




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From: Bill Wallace 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: rearing queens
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I would like some info on running  a two queen colony.  If anyone has
had experance with this it. your input would be quite helpful I lost
most of my bees last year tring to rebuild this year. thank you



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From: "Anton Marais" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Feeding Bees
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 10:48:01 +0200
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Hi All

Could anyone comment on feeding bees with fruit.
Most fruit has its own sugars and bees ARE attracted to
broken (sliced) fruit, so why can't you feed them by putting
it in the vicinity of the hive.  Does anyone have experience
with these methods and what will the honey taste like?

Cheers
Anton





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From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: find where to buy queens in Mexico
Date: 22 Feb 2000 08:05:32 -0500
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In article <88pe41$nsh$1@nnrp1.deja.com>,
jhdavila   wrote:
>Please if some know where to buy good queens in Mexico and frames I
>appreciate any information.

http://www.netcall.com.mx/abejas/en/aztec.html

Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein
adamf@radix.net
http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf


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From: "John A. Taylor" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Carnolian Queens?
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 09:29:56 -0500
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Also, check out the web page for the New World Carniolan Breeding Project:
http://iris.biosci.ohio-state.edu/honeybee/breeding/NWCmain.html

terry wrote:

> I am hobbiest beekeep in north GA and am interested in trying a new
> breed of bee.  There is an old timer in the area that says that he likes
> Carnolian bees but I wonder if what he really has are Carnolians.  His
> bees are a very yellow and I understand that Carnolians are a darker
> race.  My Question: are Carnolians suited to the hot summers of GA?  And
> Do they have peak numbers in July when the area sourwood is in bloom?
> Where is there a good source of Crnln queens in the south east?
>
> Any experience in these areas is GREATLY appreciated.
>
> terry
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.



Article 23247 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: Paul Petty 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Paramoth and honey
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 12:37:33 -0800
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I've got some boxes/ frames containing some honey that I need to store
for awhile.  (A couple of winter deadouts I just discovered.)  I know
that parachlorodibenzyne (Paramoth) isn't supposed to get into the wax,
but what about the honey?

Paul




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From: pete 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Paramoth and honey
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 23:41:10 GMT
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>  Paul Petty  wrote:
> I've got some boxes/ frames containing some honey that I need to store
> for awhile.  (A couple of winter deadouts I just discovered.)  I know
> that parachlorodibenzyne (Paramoth) isn't supposed to get into the
> wax, but what about the honey?
>
> Paul
****************************************************
Howdy Paul --

I assume that you want to store the combs/honey from the
deadouts to put back with bees later rather than to extract
the honey.  I have stored this type of salvage and put
back with bees without airing out the combs (contrary to
all advice).  No ill effects noted with the bees.

          Pete
So much to learn - So little time !
**************************************************


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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From: "Barry Metz" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Not being a chemist but rather a beekeeper I suspect that
parachlorodibenzine is a rather potent organo chloride with a hydrocarbon
based base.  This being the case then you will cause contamination of the
wax and honey if you store full combs and I really think that it would
contaminate drawn comb as well and if these were not aired out prior to
being placed in  hive then this would cause some contamination of the honey
as well.  Lets try and keep the honey away from heavy metals and organo
chlorides

--
Barry Metz
pete  wrote in message
news:88v6qm$onk$1@nnrp1.deja.com...
>
>
> >  Paul Petty  wrote:
> > I've got some boxes/ frames containing some honey that I need to store
> > for awhile.  (A couple of winter deadouts I just discovered.)  I know
> > that parachlorodibenzyne (Paramoth) isn't supposed to get into the
> > wax, but what about the honey?
> >
> > Paul
> ****************************************************
> Howdy Paul --
>
> I assume that you want to store the combs/honey from the
> deadouts to put back with bees later rather than to extract
> the honey.  I have stored this type of salvage and put
> back with bees without airing out the combs (contrary to
> all advice).  No ill effects noted with the bees.
>
>           Pete
> So much to learn - So little time !
> **************************************************
>
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.




Article 23250 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: HiStretch@GoStretch.com (Charles "Stretch" Ledford)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Winter Feeding
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 19:02:18 -0600
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Greetings, all... 

What's the best way to feed a hive during winter, when sub-freezing temps
will freeze sugar water placed near a hive?

Thanks in advance.

-- 
Charles "Stretch" Ledford
STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY
"North America and the Entire World"
http://www.GoStretch.com


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From: "news" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: WOODS-10'offset-brushcopper
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http://www.comauction.com/com/plsql/showitem?ItemId=1130199932272WOODS-10'of
fset-brushcopper
--
Katy McKenzie Brezger
Sales, Farm Equipment
ComAuction.com




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The bag goes on top of the two brood boxes. You don't want to split the
brood with your feeder.

The answer to your second question is yes. If you stimulate brood rearing
too early or too late you are producing "consumers" instead of "producers".
Keep in mind that it takes about 40 days from egg to forager. If your flow
begins around April 10 and the queen had not started laying well before
March 1, the colony will not have a large force of foragers. Ideally, the
forager population will peak with the flow. Of course all this build up will
induce the colony to swarm right before the flow so keep that in mind.

You may also need to feed pollen or a substitute depending on what is
available in or out of the hive.
--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To respond via email, get the "L" out of there


"Charles "Stretch" Ledford"  wrote in message
news:HiStretch-2102002054500001@pool-207-205-182-199.phnx.grid.net...
>
> The bag is placed between or on top of the two brood boxes?  Or does it
matter?
>
> Also, you mention that this type of feeding stimulates brood rearing...
> Could it  therefore possibly be counter productive to begin this type of
> feeding too early in the year?
>
> Thanks again.
>
> --
> Charles "Stretch" Ledford
> STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY
> "North America and the Entire World"
> http://www.GoStretch.com




Article 23253 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 06:25:42 -0500
From: Bill Truesdell 
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Paul Petty wrote:
> 
> I've got some boxes/ frames containing some honey that I need to store
> for awhile.  (A couple of winter deadouts I just discovered.)  I know
> that parachlorodibenzyne (Paramoth) isn't supposed to get into the wax,
> but what about the honey?
> 
> Paul

As long as you eat it and give it to your kids and immediate family there
should be no problems for the rest of us.
That was with tounge in cheek. I would not. The reason is that there only
may be a trace of chemicals in the honey or wax. But that may be enough to
start a small cell mutation that will sit there for a bit. You will never
know what caused that cancer.
Most benzine compounds are troublesome.
Bill Truesdell
Bath,ME

-- 
If there is a zz before clinic.net, remove it to reply directly.


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From: "Louis" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Carniolan
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Genuine - original CARNIOLAN BEE  on the internet:

http://apiphyt.com/carnica

Louis from France and orig from Upper Carniola in Slovenia- in the sunny
side of Alps




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Hi Paul,

   Parachlorodibenzyne is approved for use in bee hives as a fumigant for honey
bee combs. Having said that, I agree with the others that it is a wretched
choice of chemicals to use anywhere near a human food.
   But if you look in "The Hive and the Honey Bee" under the heading "Wax moth"
you'll find mention of a produce called Certan, which was a beneficial
organism, Bt, that was also approved for use as a honey comb fumigant. The
manufacturer, unfortunately, took it off the U.S. market. It can still be
purchased though in the U.S. (I'm not sure they ever stopped using it in Europe
and Canada) and is available from a French manufacturer via a Canadian bee
supply company (The Bee Works  (705)326 7171, http://www.beeworks.com). 
   You might even be able to find the Bt in a generic form at a garden supply
outfit. The Bt type is Bacillus thuringiensis Berliner var. aizawa. It comes in
a liquid form and is mixed one part Bt to 19 parts water. It is sprayed on the
combs. You must ensure that it hits all parts of the comb, as the wax moth
larva must eat it to be affected by it. 
   I've only just purchased it and don't know what the drawbacks, if any, are.
Any European or Canadian beekeeps out there have any comment on the use of this
product?
John




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From: Murray McGregor 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Mesquite Honey.
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 15:02:54 +0000
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>
>Having bees surrounded by mesquite but other acacia types as well, it is always 
>hard to be precise as there are really three different types of honey that is 
>saved here during the season.  However as Mesquite blooms in good years (years 
>with rain in April, May, and June) it fairly safe to say the honey that comes in 
>during that time is the best of the three and that would be predominately 
>mesquite.
>
>Having said that: I would just say that Acacia honey is the best in the world, 
>(Steve Tabor agrees) and Mesquite is an Acacia. 

Only one snag with the above. Acacia honey, as generally marketed around
the world, does not come from acacia plants.

It actually comes from Robinia pseudacacia (sp?), or the false acacia. I
have been told that it is known as Black Locust in North America.

In its pure form from certain origins it is truly excellent.

-- 
Murray McGregor


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From: "John A. Taylor" taylaw@digizen.net 

>I also had my first starvation death this year (in a hive I thought had
>sufficient stores).
>Is it necessary to remove each dead bee from each cell... or can you put them
>on
>another colony and let them "bring out your dead" ?

   The bees can clean them out, but I prefer to brush off the ones that come
off easily, to reduce mold, and to make less work for the bees. I don't bother
with the ones that are stuck in the cells, as they are harder to get out.


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Home Page:  http://pollinator.com

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


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  shelley corbin  wrote:
> Has anybody tried liquid smoke?  I definitely want to try it. my
>family complain the shed smells like smoke, with the reg. smoker, and i
>have had a time finding decent fuel. i only have one hive right now, so
>it should last a decent time. how much does it cost, anyway?
******************************************************
Howdy Shelley --

I tried a home-made liquid smoke for a while and did not
like it, so went back to pine straw. The liquid smoke I made
was a mixture of 1/3 liquid smoke from the grocery store and
2/3 water.  It did not dissipate quickly and I did not want
to keep the bees exposed to it for that long. Cheap though.

If you have pine trees where you live, find a driveway in
pine trees and collect the stuff after it has been run over
many times by cars.  Best material I have ever used.

        Pete
So much to learn - So little time !
**************************************************


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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From: shelley corbin 
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Subject: hive is alive, hurray! what to feed? 
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well, we got a warm spell today, my bees are out and about already,what
a relief to know my single hive didnt die. i guess i will have to start
feeding them until spring, correct? we are going to have warm weather
(50 degrees) the next 5 days. should i use 2 to 1 syryp or 1 to 1 in
late Feb?

svcorbin@usol.com



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From: Old Drone 
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Subject: Mesquite Honey anyone??
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Come on folks,
Some one must be able to describe this honey. Just a quick description
please.
Pete.


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Hi again, Dennis.....Well, here in Western Washington, there are a LOT of
pollen sources.  My "Girls"  were all out today...a mild day...the Pussy
willows are SUPER  in pollen, right now, my Bride's  Filbert  (Hazelnut)
trees don't make many nuts, but BOY do the "girls" LOVE the pollen in those
blossoms...and of course, the early flowers...I think they are called
Crocus's... are in bloom.....At the Hive stand....amazingly LOADED
bees....Count yourself blessed...I understand that some folks  have to use a
Pollen Substitute......

Also....HERE..... bees bringing in pollen is a sure sign of queen
laying/brood rearing... HOORAY!  Maybe we beat the @#$%%  mites this  year!
"DM"




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You don't say what kind of stores they have so I can't tell you if you will
have too feed them; however, if you want them to explode, feed them 1:1. You
may not need to feed them at all for their survival but 1:1 now will get the
queen laying for the upcoming flow.

--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To respond via email, get the "L" out of there


"shelley corbin"  wrote in message
news:38B33305.AB7F041F@usol.com...
> well, we got a warm spell today, my bees are out and about already,what
> a relief to know my single hive didnt die. i guess i will have to start
> feeding them until spring, correct? we are going to have warm weather
> (50 degrees) the next 5 days. should i use 2 to 1 syryp or 1 to 1 in
> late Feb?
>
> svcorbin@usol.com
>




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From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014)
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James wrote:
Yes. Very happy with it (Bt).

Some questions occur to me. Thanks in advance if you can give any feedback on
them:

1) I understand the length of time it remains active is limited. How long is
one application good for?

2) Since wax moth larvae must eat it (Bacillus thuringiensis Berliner var.
aizawa) off the comb, how much damage are the larvae capable of before the
larvae die? 

3) Does spraying the combs with the water/Bt mixture cause mold to grow?

4) Is anybody aware of whether testing is being done anywhere to see what it
does to the Small Hive Beetle?


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George, Question#1 Feeding syrup this early in the year, will it stimulate the
swarming urge?
L.E.G.

George Styer wrote:

> You don't say what kind of stores they have so I can't tell you if you will
> have too feed them; however, if you want them to explode, feed them 1:1. You
> may not need to feed them at all for their survival but 1:1 now will get the
> queen laying for the upcoming flow.
>
> --
> Geo
> Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
> "Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
> gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
> To respond via email, get the "L" out of there
>
> "shelley corbin"  wrote in message
> news:38B33305.AB7F041F@usol.com...
> > well, we got a warm spell today, my bees are out and about already,what
> > a relief to know my single hive didnt die. i guess i will have to start
> > feeding them until spring, correct? we are going to have warm weather
> > (50 degrees) the next 5 days. should i use 2 to 1 syryp or 1 to 1 in
> > late Feb?
> >
> > svcorbin@usol.com
> >



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Rule of Thumb has been that you put the Queen you WANT  in the top section
of the colony...that would put your queenless gang on the  bottom....BUT!
I'll bet you a gallon of honey that  there will be B-Zillions of other
opinions!     "DM"




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hot water if possible 75C - 85C will flush the wax off

--
Barry Metz
Patrick M. Hennessey  wrote in message
news:38b49c84.23659005@news.ncweb.com...
> What is the best/easiest way to remove beeswax from glassware and
> stainless steel when they have cooled?  I have a glass Dutch oven that
> I use to melt wax cappings with and I am looking for an easy way to
> clean it.  I also use a few wax molds that I need to clean.  Thank you
> for the help.
>
> Pat
>




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Subject: Newbee Question - buying Nucs/packages etc.
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I am going to get into beekeeping this year and I just received some old
beekeeping journals where there is an offer of Hives and Colonies for
sale. I know what a nuc and a package are, but how is a colony or hive
sold? One ad says "Strong, Heavy 2 storey Beehives, Ready to split".....
Another ad states "Colonies $***, Nucs 9 frame $***... with naturally
raised queens".  Would I have to show up with a hive body or asome kind
of package? I am not looking at buying from these people as I am in
Ontario Canada and they are in the USA, I would ask them if they had
e-mail. Also - what is a 'naturally produced queen'? Everything I have
read says get a well-bred queen. They say that queens that are
superseded are not as desirable. What is the consensus here? Thanks for
any help, Glen.


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From: phennessey@ncweb.com (Patrick M. Hennessey)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Cleaning glassware
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On Thu, 24 Feb 2000 16:40:07 +1100, "Barry Metz"
 wrote:

>hot water if possible 75C - 85C will flush the wax off
I guess I need to rephrase this slightly.  After I have most of the
wax off there is a wax residue left.  How can I get this off so my
wife will not disown me.

Pat



Article 23269 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 10:54:37 +0000
From: "L.E.G." 
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Well there George ! This has been a very warm winter here 50 miles south of
Wash. D.C. in Va., most of the time Feb. is down right cold (below freezing),
and March is a little warmer(40 to 50). In about 1 of 4 years April is cold. I
have been out cutting wood in the first week of April and had ice on my
mustache. I think this is a situation that calls for some guesswork and luck on
predicting the break in the weather. we are goig to be in the 60's today, but we
could still get a cold snap through the end of march.
L.E.G.

George Styer wrote:

> Absolutely! They will want to swarm just before the flow. If they are
> successful, you will have wasted some good sugar. Stimulative feeding will
> force you to become a better beekeeper or an annoyance to your neighbors.
>
> You call it early, I call it late. I start Feb 1, otherwise I get next to
> nothing from the citrus.
>
> --
> Geo
> Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
> "Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
> gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
> To respond via email, get the "L" out of there
>
> "L.E.G."  wrote in message
> news:38B43FD6.D94E6B22@crosslink.net...
> > George, Question#1 Feeding syrup this early in the year, will it stimulate
> the
> > swarming urge?
> > L.E.G.
> >



Article 23270 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Message-ID: <38AD4D3F.D98B713B@together.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 08:46:40 -0500
From: Michael Palmer 
Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net
Organization: French Hill Apiaries
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Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23270

I used to "sugar" extensively. Got up to 5500 taps. Boiling all that sap at
night (staring at all those bubbles, while breathing that sugary steam) gets ont
to pondering. The decision to get into commercial beekeeping, and out of
commercial sugaring was easy. So, I had bees and maple for awhile. Never had any
"problem" with bees around the taps. I used mostly tubing,  but rarely saw bees
around the buckets (or open taps). My main holding tank was a swimming pool.
Ocasionally, I would see a couple dead bees in the pool, but certainly no
"problem". I think the bees aren't so strong at "sugaring time," and the sap
really isn't very sweet. Maple sap is from 1% to 3% sugar. What is nectar? I
think from 10% to 15%? Also, I wouldn't boil it and make it thicker to feed it
to bees. Maple syrup is caramelized sugar, and gives bees dysentary.

> How many of you guys have trouble with bees around your maple taps in early
> spring? I was wondering if maple water , has any valuable use. And If a
> person was to tap and leave for the bees , will they use it for early spring
> sugar. Just a thought
> preacher





Article 23271 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Mark Nelsen" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Friday Forecast
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 07:32:09 -0800
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Today:
Sunny...Still Smoggy
High:  54   Light Wind

Tonight:
Clear & Cool
Low:  32 in City, 25-30 outlying areas

Tomorrow:
Sunny...No Haze...Warmer/Windy
High:  60  Wind: E 15-30 & Gusty


Friday:            --/54     Sunny
Saturday:        32/60    Sunny
Sunday:          34/56    Partly Cloudy
Monday:         42/52   Showers     (use sun w/shower)
Tuesday:         39/51   Rainy




Article 23272 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Judy and Dave 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Honey Queen/Princess
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 15:56:41 -0500
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Hi all.

I have assumed the responsibility of updating Kentucky's Honey
Queen/Princess program.

If you are, or if you know someone who is, in charge of or help out with
your state's Honey Queen/Princess program, would you contact me.

Thanks for your time.

Judy in Kentucky



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From: gfdavis@usit.net"
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: It's started!!!
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I noticed my bee's also collecting somethung from somewhere.
I live in southwest va.

On Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:20:35 +0000, "L.E.G." 
wrote:

>Mine too, I have two large Maples in front yard, I walked past and had
>to stop and look, the bee's were working them so much it sounded like a
>swarm. These Buckfast bee's have already exploded!!
>L.E.G.
>
>honeybs@radix.net wrote:
>
>> The bees were bringing in pollen today.  Maple and something else,
>> maybe skunk cabbage.  All hell is getting ready to break loose.  We
>> can get out of the house and back to beekeeping again!
>>
>> Greg the beekeep
>



Article 23274 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: Charlie Kroeger 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Mesquite Honey.
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In article <+DOVYGAea$s4EwPS@denrosa.demon.co.uk>
Murray McGregor  wrote:

> >
> >Having bees surrounded by mesquite but other acacia types as well, it is=
 always=20
> >hard to be precise as there are really three different types of honey th=
at is=20
> >saved here during the season.  However as Mesquite blooms in good years =
(years=20
> >with rain in April, May, and June) it fairly safe to say the honey that =
comes in=20
> >during that time is the best of the three and that would be predominatel=
y=20
> >mesquite.
> >
> >Having said that: I would just say that Acacia honey is the best in the =
world,=20
> >(Steve Tabor agrees) and Mesquite is an Acacia.=20
>=20
> Only one snag with the above. Acacia honey, as generally marketed around
> the world, does not come from acacia plants.
>=20
> It actually comes from Robinia pseudacacia (sp?), or the false acacia. I
> have been told that it is known as Black Locust in North America.
>=20
> In its pure form from certain origins it is truly excellent.
>=20
> --=20
> Murray McGregor

watch this space.


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From: phennessey@ncweb.com (Patrick M. Hennessey)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Cleaning glassware
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 12:56:28 GMT
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On Thu, 24 Feb 2000 16:40:07 +1100, "Barry Metz"
 wrote:

>hot water if possible 75C - 85C will flush the wax off
I guess I need to rephrase this slightly.  After I have most of the
wax off there is a wax residue left.  How can I get this off so my
wife will not disown me.

Pat



Article 23269 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 10:54:37 +0000
From: "L.E.G." 
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Subject: Re: hive is alive, hurray! what to feed?
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Well there George ! This has been a very warm winter here 50 miles south of
Wash. D.C. in Va., most of the time Feb. is down right cold (below freezing),
and March is a little warmer(40 to 50). In about 1 of 4 years April is cold. I
have been out cutting wood in the first week of April and had ice on my
mustache. I think this is a situation that calls for some guesswork and luck on
predicting the break in the weather. we are goig to be in the 60's today, but we
could still get a cold snap through the end of march.
L.E.G.

George Styer wrote:

> Absolutely! They will want to swarm just before the flow. If they are
> successful, you will have wasted some good sugar. Stimulative feeding will
> force you to become a better beekeeper or an annoyance to your neighbors.
>
> You call it early, I call it late. I start Feb 1, otherwise I get next to
> nothing from the citrus.
>
> --
> Geo
> Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
> "Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
> gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
> To respond via email, get the "L" out of there
>
> "L.E.G."  wrote in message
> news:38B43FD6.D94E6B22@crosslink.net...
> > George, Question#1 Feeding syrup this early in the year, will it stimulate
> the
> > swarming urge?
> > L.E.G.
> >



Article 23270 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Message-ID: <38AD4D3F.D98B713B@together.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 08:46:40 -0500
From: Michael Palmer 
Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net
Organization: French Hill Apiaries
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-DIAL  (Win95; U)
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:23270

I used to "sugar" extensively. Got up to 5500 taps. Boiling all that sap at
night (staring at all those bubbles, while breathing that sugary steam) gets ont
to pondering. The decision to get into commercial beekeeping, and out of
commercial sugaring was easy. So, I had bees and maple for awhile. Never had any
"problem" with bees around the taps. I used mostly tubing,  but rarely saw bees
around the buckets (or open taps). My main holding tank was a swimming pool.
Ocasionally, I would see a couple dead bees in the pool, but certainly no
"problem". I think the bees aren't so strong at "sugaring time," and the sap
really isn't very sweet. Maple sap is from 1% to 3% sugar. What is nectar? I
think from 10% to 15%? Also, I wouldn't boil it and make it thicker to feed it
to bees. Maple syrup is caramelized sugar, and gives bees dysentary.

> How many of you guys have trouble with bees around your maple taps in early
> spring? I was wondering if maple water , has any valuable use. And If a
> person was to tap and leave for the bees , will they use it for early spring
> sugar. Just a thought
> preacher





Article 23271 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Mark Nelsen" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Friday Forecast
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 07:32:09 -0800
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
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Today:
Sunny...Still Smoggy
High:  54   Light Wind

Tonight:
Clear & Cool
Low:  32 in City, 25-30 outlying areas

Tomorrow:
Sunny...No Haze...Warmer/Windy
High:  60  Wind: E 15-30 & Gusty


Friday:            --/54     Sunny
Saturday:        32/60    Sunny
Sunday:          34/56    Partly Cloudy
Monday:         42/52   Showers     (use sun w/shower)
Tuesday:         39/51   Rainy




Article 23272 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Judy and Dave 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Honey Queen/Princess
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 15:56:41 -0500
Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com
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Hi all.

I have assumed the responsibility of updating Kentucky's Honey
Queen/Princess program.

If you are, or if you know someone who is, in charge of or help out with
your state's Honey Queen/Princess program, would you contact me.

Thanks for your time.

Judy in Kentucky



Article 23273 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: gfdavis@usit.net"
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: It's started!!!
Message-ID: <38b5ddfb.5243937@news.usit.net>
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I noticed my bee's also collecting somethung from somewhere.
I live in southwest va.

On Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:20:35 +0000, "L.E.G." 
wrote:

>Mine too, I have two large Maples in front yard, I walked past and had
>to stop and look, the bee's were working them so much it sounded like a
>swarm. These Buckfast bee's have already exploded!!
>L.E.G.
>
>honeybs@radix.net wrote:
>
>> The bees were bringing in pollen today.  Maple and something else,
>> maybe skunk cabbage.  All hell is getting ready to break loose.  We
>> can get out of the house and back to beekeeping again!
>>
>> Greg the beekeep
>



Article 23274 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: Charlie Kroeger 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Mesquite Honey.
References:  <+DOVYGAea$s4EwPS@denrosa.demon.co.uk>
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In article <+DOVYGAea$s4EwPS@denrosa.demon.co.uk>
Murray McGregor  wrote:

> >
> >Having bees surrounded by mesquite but other acacia types as well, it is=
 always=20
> >hard to be precise as there are really three different types of honey th=
at is=20
> >saved here during the season.  However as Mesquite blooms in good years =
(years=20
> >with rain in April, May, and June) it fairly safe to say the honey that =
comes in=20
> >during that time is the best of the three and that would be predominatel=
y=20
> >mesquite.
> >
> >Having said that: I would just say that Acacia honey is the best in the =
world,=20
> >(Steve Tabor agrees) and Mesquite is an Acacia.=20
>=20
> Only one snag with the above. Acacia honey, as generally marketed around
> the world, does not come from acacia plants.
>=20
> It actually comes from Robinia pseudacacia (sp?), or the false acacia. I
> have been told that it is known as Black Locust in North America.
>=20
> In its pure form from certain origins it is truly excellent.
>=20
> --=20
> Murray McGregor

watch this space.


Article 23275 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: ^ngravel@direct.ca^ (Normand)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Plastic frames cleaning
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Hi you all. I inherited old plastic frames ravaged by waxmoths (all
dead frozen here in Canada) lots of the cells are deformed or 
covered with mold because there was honey that got uncapped by wasps
and there was pollen which is wasted.
All of it (20 supers) heavily propolised up to 1/4 of an inch in the
frame.
Scraping works relatively good except for the bottom of the cells
where there is propolis and also what seams like rotted pollen
(yellow and foul smelling).
	Should I let the bees clean them (seems like a lot of work)?
	Should I try to clean them better (Please tell me how)?
	or should I assume that the frames are garbage?

Thanks, Normand.


Article 23276 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green)
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>Tomorrow I will be moving 3 hives 500km here is what I plan to do:
>
>1. secure the hives in the back of a pick up with a tarp over them
>
>2. close off the hive entrance
>the temperature will be around 5-10 celcius.
>Any other tips out there for a first time hive mover?

   Closing the entrance (as with duct tape, or rags, etc. will present the
possibility of suffocation, although the cool temps will help.

   I never close hives, but especially would not do so in warm weather.  As
long as one is moving, bees will not venture out.  When temps are near or below
freezing, I face entrances backwards to reduce drafts; in warmer weather I face
entrances forward to improve ventilation.

   If it is cold enough for bees to be in cluster, be careful not to bump the
hives enough to break cluster. Some of the dropped bees may be unable to move
back to the cluster.


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Home Page:  http://pollinator.com

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


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Sounds like AFB in the bottom of those cells. There was a reason the wasps and
wax moths were allowed to take over this hive and with yellow rotten smelling
stuff on the bottom of the cell...........I was trash them. Someone else have
an opinion?
Laura


>Hi you all. I inherited old plastic frames ravaged by waxmoths (all
>dead frozen here in Canada) lots of the cells are deformed or 
>covered with mold because there was honey that got uncapped by wasps
>and there was pollen which is wasted.
>All of it (20 supers) heavily propolised up to 1/4 of an inch in the
>frame.
>Scraping works relatively good except for the bottom of the cells
>where there is propolis and also what seams like rotted pollen
>(yellow and foul smelling).
>	Should I let the bees clean them (seems like a lot of work)?
>	Should I try to clean them better (Please tell me how)?
>	or should I assume that the frames are garbage?
>




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From: "Kevin" 
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Subject: Expanding Hives
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I am entering my 2nd year with my apiary.  First year went great with only
one hive.  I would like to up it to two or three this year.  Where is a good
source for equipment?  I have the Walter T Kelley 2000 catalog. $49.00 for
complete hive body (deep super with frames, cover, and bottom board) and
$16.00 for shallow super with frames.  Is that the best way to go?

thanks in advance.....

Kevin




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>"Barry Meltzer"  wrote:
> I am just getting into beekeeping and was wondering what the groups
> opinions/experiences are with standardizing on medium height supers?
> Barry
******************************************************************
Howdy Barry --

I became acquainted with "medium supers only" in 1937 while working with
S.E. McGregor in experimental work with AFB.
I have used the one size only ever since. The advantages far outweigh
any disadvantages.

Several times I have bought out small beekeepers with a wide mixture of
sizes. As soon as was practical I emptied the combs and melted them down
and cut the deep supers to 6 5/8" if they were useable. I encourage all
the beginners I work with to start out with mediums only.

Good Luck

                         Pete
So much to learn - So little time !
**************************************************


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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In article <896ikj$ef9$1@nntp2.atl.mindspring.net>,
  "Kevin"  wrote:
> I am entering my 2nd year with my apiary.  First year went great with
only
> one hive.  I would like to up it to two or three this year.  Where is
a good
> source for equipment?  I have the Walter T Kelley 2000 catalog.
$49.00 for
> complete hive body (deep super with frames, cover, and bottom board)
and
> $16.00 for shallow super with frames.  Is that the best way to go?
>
> thanks in advance.....
>
> Kevin
>
> Kevin, I've found that buying beekeeping equipment is just like
buying stereo equipment or anything else. SHOP AROUND. Some places will
give you a better price on clothing while another may be better for
boxes and frames, etc. You may also be lucky enough to find a local
beekeeper who is retired and builds boxes to sell. I found a person
here in Maine who does just that. I buy his boxes with 10 standard
frames with foundation for about half the price of Dadant equipment. It
doesn't take long to make a difference in your wallet.
  You could also shop around via internet for other places like:
Betterbee
Brushy Mountain
Dadant
  Just use a search engine and look for "beekeeping supplies", you'll
end up with more listings than you have time to investigate.

Good Luck
Paul


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: I Live in Greenville, South Carolina
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 17:26:45 -0500
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I did forget to mention that.

I am in Easley which is outside Greenville, South Carolina


"BeeCrofter"  wrote in message
news:20000225155638.01220.00000539@ng-fs1.aol.com...
> Kevin
> Shipping costs are a major portion of equipment costs.
> Where do you live?
>
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com




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Kevin
Shipping costs are a major portion of equipment costs. 
Where do you live?


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


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From: Murray McGregor 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Mesquite Honey.
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In article <38b5ea67.0@usenet.lexmark.com>, Charlie Kroeger
 writes
>> >Having said that: I would just say that Acacia honey is the best in the 
>world, 
>> >(Steve Tabor agrees) and Mesquite is an Acacia. 
>> 
>> Only one snag with the above. Acacia honey, as generally marketed around
>> the world, does not come from acacia plants.
>> 
>> It actually comes from Robinia pseudacacia (sp?), or the false acacia. I
>> have been told that it is known as Black Locust in North America.
>> 
>> In its pure form from certain origins it is truly excellent.
>> 
>> -- 
>> Murray McGregor
>

>watch this space.


Find below a snip from Apis of June 1997. All credit for the piece to
M.T.Sanford

FALSE ACACIA: ONE OF MANY NEW WORLD FRENCH CONNECTIONS 
The "acacia" flow is over here in southern France. As is done each year,
beekeepers are now estimating how good the final crop will be. This is
one of the finest of ProvenГal honeys and commands a premium price in
most markets. The plant is grown all across Europe as well. I remember
during the Hungarian Apimondia meeting in 1983, when participants were
given a tour of the acacia groves there. It was the only time I have
ever seen a program designed to systematatically improve nectar
production in a plant. At that time, Hungarians were attempting to both
increase nectar secretion and timber quality from this important plant.
Thus, I was pleased to see my plant friend again when I came to France.
The story of this plant is admirably told in the 1978 edition of the
Bulletin Technique Apicole, published by O.P.I.D.A (L'office pour
l'information et la documentation en apiculture). It is "Fiche
Technique" found in Volume 5 (No. 4), pp. 33-40, authored by J.
Albisetti. 
Imagine the surprise of a newcomer here from the United States,
therefore, upon discovering this plant isn't "acacia" at all. It's
really "false acacia," Robinia pseudacacia, and wonder of wonders, was
originally transported around the world from its native habitat in the
Allegany and Appalachian mountains. The King's gardener, J. Robin,
introduced the plant to France in 1601. It is in fact known as "black
locust" in its native regions, I was informed by Steve Taber, who
recently left France to return to his southern roots. It is the same
plant I remember growing on the high banks of the Ohio River where the
old National Road crosses that waterway at Wheeling, West Virginia. 

The "robiniers" as they are called here in France are in the rose order
and legume family. Three species of the twenty that exist worldwide have
been naturalized in the country. In general, they are not well exploited
by bees because of their early and short flowering time. I remember the
black locust flow as notoriously unpredictable and tempermental on the
banks of the Ohio. The later it flowers in France, the more nectar
collecting possibilities occur, about 7.5 percent increase per day
delayed, acccording to the article. The French are also aware of the
history of their Hungarian cousins in culturing the acacia, and data
show that a silvo-apicultural program is possible here too, the article
concludes. 

The honey bee's yearly gathering of Robinia pseudacacia honey in Europe
is just one of many interesting results of human intervention in the
biology of planet earth. The French-American relationship is filled with
these as well. It ranges from American root stock in French vineyards to
the fine Franco-grape varieties now grown in California. Beekeeping in
southern France really has few monofloral crops to look forward to;
prospects would be much poorer without this American vegetational
heritage. For that matter, where would U.S. beekeeping be without
introduction of that most ubiquitous of old world insects, Apis
mellifera? 

-- 
Murray McGregor


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*What is the best/easiest way to remove beeswax from glassware and
*stainless steel when they have cooled?

Wipe out as much bees wax as possible with a paper towel while the stainless
is still hot.  I wear leather gloves.  Then wipe out the residue with a
little kerosene or alcohol.  Then wash well with detergent (also the
stainless).
If you want to keep peace, buy your bee stuff at a garage sale and never
take any of it near the kitchen.
I have a little hot plate in the garage with a double boiler made from two
stainless steel bowels I bought for almost nothing at a garage sale.
I would advise against glassware, what if it breaks?
Pete





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From: gwongdung@aol.com (Gwongdung)
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Subject: Hives in Shed ?
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Hello.  I will be new to beekeeping this spring and have a question.  Can I
successfully keep a hive in a shed, so to conceal the fact that I have bees ? 
(I live in an urban area that prohibits beekeeping).  Perhaps  I could install
a tube of PVC pipe or another material from the hive entrance to a discrete
hole outside of the shed.

Thanks for your input.


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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: newbee question
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In article <38AD4D3F.D98B713B@together.net>, Michael Palmer
 writes
> Maple sap is from 1% to 3% sugar. What is nectar? I
>think from 10% to 15%?
Nectar varies and can get to 70% in a small number of plants. Mostly it
is 30-50%. Bees don't go for low levels of sugar. It doesn't give a good
return for the energy expended in flight and evaporation. Hence you can
use jam jars with water in to trap wasps and catch no bees.

-- 
James Kilty


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-They were approved by our local inspector. So no AFB I hope
-The wasps got to them while they were stored outside but not on a hive.
-There was no fresh brood in the lot so I didn't do the matchstick test.
-Those supers were right beside a hive with a colony that swarmed and
kept on going with a new queen of their own and they are wintering fine.
-I am situated 100 mi. North of Vancouver and I think the West Coast climate
and the set up of the previous owner just molded the remaining honey and
pollen. I am a newbie myself and I could be wrong...
-Would the bees draw on framews cleaned with bleach by example???
-I have now a few broken frames all dirty I am ready to try anything
-Anybody ?




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From: "Barry Metz" 
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All I can say to you is that if beekeeping is prohibited in your area, which
is residential, by local law.  Then if you do keep hives in this area then
you are just giving the rest of us a bad name, and possibly opening yourself
to fines and litigation.  Think about it

--
Barry Metz
Gwongdung  wrote in message
news:20000226005654.24201.00001993@ng-ck1.aol.com...
> Hello.  I will be new to beekeeping this spring and have a question.  Can
I
> successfully keep a hive in a shed, so to conceal the fact that I have
bees ?
> (I live in an urban area that prohibits beekeeping).  Perhaps  I could
install
> a tube of PVC pipe or another material from the hive entrance to a
discrete
> hole outside of the shed.
>
> Thanks for your input.




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From: "Nick Templar" 
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Here is an extract from this years membership application.

Also see  http://members.tripod.co.uk/hsbka/index.html


ABOUT YOUR HIVES
Your membership entitles you to free insurance for up to two hives of bees.
To enjoy insurance cover for more than two hives please indicate how many
hives you wish to insure and enter the amount in the appropriate section.

BANDS COST
3 to 5 hives ё1.50
6 to 10 hives ё3.50
11 to 15 hives ё5.00
16 to 20 hives ё6.00
21 to 25 hives ё6.50
26 to 39 HIVES @ ё0.30 per hive

ABOUT YOUR MEMBERSHIP
Your membership entitles you to join in all the activities of the Hagley and
Stourbridge Beekeepers Association and all the other clubs in the
Worcestershire Beekeepers Association.  You will enjoy free insurance for up
to two hives of bees and four news letters.  Full members also make an
inclusive donation of ё1.50 to the charity Bees for Development.

Hope this helps

Regards

Nick

Secretary







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Maybe something along the lines of a drip irrigation system might work. It
could drip onto some sort of surface the bees can easily land on. Set the drip
so that evaporation is such that there is no real build up of water. 

I have never raised bees so I do not know if this is practical of not.

Good Luck




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From: "Bram Borg" 
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Ter overname aangeboden bijenstal met vijf gezonde volken in de omgeving van
Groot-Ammers. Met mogelijkheid opslag materialen en reserve delen. Verder
een grote hoeveelheid reservedelen voor kasten, honingslinger,
zonnewassmelter etc, etc. Bram Borg e-mail: bramborg@planet.nl




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I'm looking for a small two frame extractor at a good price.  I'd like
to find a good used handcrank extractor.  I'm in northern Indiana.
Please let me know if anyone has any leads.
Erick



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I would scrape as much as possible. Put them in the freezer for a while then
gently rap them to dislodge propolis, although I doubt that it is propolis
in the bottom of the cells. This is an unusual place to be propolized. Some
of the older plastic frames become quite brittle when cold so try freezing
just a couple first. Other than that, let the bees clean them. They will
clean out the grossest stuff a hive has to offer. It may seem like a lot of
work to you but most house bees spend an awful lot of time doing nothing. It
will build their character and you get to relax.

--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To respond via email, get the "L" out of there


"Normand" <^ngravel@direct.ca^> wrote in message
news:38b6971a.134113999@news.direct.ca...
> Hi you all. I inherited old plastic frames ravaged by waxmoths (all
> dead frozen here in Canada) lots of the cells are deformed or
> covered with mold because there was honey that got uncapped by wasps
> and there was pollen which is wasted.
> All of it (20 supers) heavily propolised up to 1/4 of an inch in the
> frame.
> Scraping works relatively good except for the bottom of the cells
> where there is propolis and also what seams like rotted pollen
> (yellow and foul smelling).
> Should I let the bees clean them (seems like a lot of work)?
> Should I try to clean them better (Please tell me how)?
> or should I assume that the frames are garbage?
>
> Thanks, Normand.




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have two small extractor one new one used
 one stainless one galvanized you
can email or call (405)872-8385 
GRichtmeye@aol.com 


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From: honeybs@radix.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Carnolian Queens?
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 21:57:16 GMT
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On Sat, 26 Feb 2000 17:21:24 GMT, Terry 
wrote:

>In article <38b7e92b.165860482@news1.radix.net>,
>  honeybs@radix.net wrote:
>> On Sat, 26 Feb 2000 08:05:53 -0600, "Mark G Spagnolo"
>>  wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >Carniolans were developed in cold weather areas.  They are well
>known for
>> >their wintering ability.
>> >
>> >This is not to say they won't do well in a warm weather area, but
>Italians
>> >will do better in most cases!
>>
>> If you have only a spring flow then the carnies are the way to go.
>>
>For my purposes, only the sourwood flow which is in July/August is
>desirable.
>
>Terry
>
Carni's build up early and will shut down just as fast if the nectar
stops coming in.  They also tend to swarm so most will have left for a
July/Aug flow.  On the other hand if you like a sweet gentle bee that
is frugal with its winter stores then you might want to try one or
two.  Stimulas feeding can have them ready for a flow.

Greg the beekeep



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So far in the past six months I have posted numerous requests for any
information on pollen, propolis, and any recipes involving beeswax. To date I
have gotten 0 replies. You would think that with all the subscribers to this
newsgroup there would be at least one person with some useful information. 
Robert Williamson
Southeast Texas Honey Co.
P.O. Box 176
Vidor, Tx. 77670
" A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any prince"


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I saw this email and my heart skipped a beat!  I though Andy was back.....


Old Drone  wrote in message
news:922ras0b0m7p54m1toe9m13gastvrqic3v@4ax.com...
> Dear all,
> I am researching the cost of being a member of Local Beekeeping
> Associations. (Not National ones)
> Primarily I am interested in British ones, but any information from
> elsewhere, gratefully received. Of further interest is, what do you
> get, in return for your money? Members nights, lectures,
> demonstrations, loan of equipment, loan of bees, club apiaries etc.
> If there is sufficient information I will endeavour to do a small
> breakdown and post it.
> Many thanks in advance.
> Pete.




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Bees will find water if it is available.  Usually they find water in places
you didn't even know existed!

 Occasionally they will cause problems.  Bees "drinking" out of a dog's dish
would be an example!

I have used large plastic Rubbermain stock tanks.  They work well, but you
have to put something in the water that the bees can land on. I have used
water hyacinth plants.  They will grow in the water and provide an excellent
"landing pad" for the bees.  Also, I have put one or two fish, goldfish work
well, in the tank.  They help keep the water cleaner.

Even though the tanks are located right in the beeyard, the bees tend to
ignore them if another water source is available.


"L.E.G."  wrote in message
news:38AF1AA2.7B2FBACC@crosslink.net...
> Don't worry about the algae the bees seem to like stagnant, slighly dirty
water.
> Iuse birdbath insummer and bees dont like it when it is too clean!!
>
> "Jerome R. Long" wrote:
>
> > Over and over one sees the admonition to provide a water source. It
isn't so
> > easy if your hive(s) are located some distance from water sources. How
should
> > one best do it, especially if one isn't at the hive(s) every day? I know
you
> > just drown bees if you put out a bucket of water. I have tried putting a
large
> > celulose sponge in a large potted plant dish of water. It doesn't take
long
> > for the green algae to take over. What is the best way to supply a
successful
> > low maintenance water supply that is safe for the bees?
>




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Super-combs that have contained brood, or those that even have some miticide
residues in the wax,
are still fine for extracting supers.
The chemicals do ..not.. end up dissolved in the honey, so contamination isn't a
risk.



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Shelley -

Where are you?  If in the north, it might not be a good idea to give them
syrup yet.  You'd be introducing a lot of moisture into the hive, and that
can stress them.  It depends on what part of the country you are in.
There may be a 50-degree spell, but if the temps are going to crash again,
and winter weather will predominate for a couple more months, feed them
dry sugar instead of syrup.

But, even before you consider it -- is the hive is still fairly heavy with
winter stores?   If so, there's no need to disturb them or feed them in
the first place.

Bear in mind that early supplemental syrup feeding will stimulate the
colony, resulting in more early brood production.  This in itself is not
bad, but once they get going they will use up the food they have,
faster.   So you'll want to keep an eye on them, and make sure they
maintain a good reserve of food from here on out.

More importantly, if there are no pollen sources in bloom for a couple
months, they will quickly exhaust the available pollen supply in the combs
once they are rearing a good amount of new brood.  Once the pollen runs
out, they will start eating the young brood in the hive, for lack of
available protein.

So, again, either way, keep an eye on 'em.  It is still pretty early,
unless you are in a more southern area, where fresh pollen is already (or
will soon be) available.

J.

shelley corbin wrote:

> well, we got a warm spell today, my bees are out and about already,what
> a relief to know my single hive didnt die. i guess i will have to start
> feeding them until spring, correct? we are going to have warm weather
> (50 degrees) the next 5 days. should i use 2 to 1 syryp or 1 to 1 in
> late Feb?
>
> svcorbin@usol.com



Article 23301 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: danaclarke@ideationtriz.com
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Dana Clarke
Director of Education
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Article 23302 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "busybee" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Dissappointment
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 06:49:38 -0600
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Robert Williamson wrote in message
<20000226193619.02785.00001690@ng-ft1.news.cs.com>...
>So far in the past six months I have posted numerous requests for any
>information on pollen, propolis, and any recipes involving beeswax. To date
I



Try to be more specific on what you are looking for.  I don't believe anyone
has the time to sit down and post general knowlege or information.

I'm sure 99% of us on this newsgroup would be happy to reply if you could be
more specific in what you are looking for.

Please re-submit your questions.

>have gotten 0 replies. You would think that with all the subscribers to
this
>newsgroup there would be at least one person with some useful information.
>Robert Williamson
>Southeast Texas Honey Co.
>P.O. Box 176
>Vidor, Tx. 77670
>" A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any prince"




Article 23303 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: Dissappointment
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On Sun, 27 Feb 2000 06:49:38 -0600, "busybee" 
wrote:

>
>Robert Williamson wrote in message
><20000226193619.02785.00001690@ng-ft1.news.cs.com>...
>>So far in the past six months I have posted numerous requests for any
>>information on pollen, propolis, and any recipes involving beeswax. To date
>I
>
>
>
>Try to be more specific on what you are looking for.  I don't believe anyone
>has the time to sit down and post general knowlege or information.
>
>I'm sure 99% of us on this newsgroup would be happy to reply if you could be
>more specific in what you are looking for.
>
>Please re-submit your questions.
>
>>have gotten 0 replies. You would think that with all the subscribers to
>this
>>newsgroup there would be at least one person with some useful information.
>>Robert Williamson
>>Southeast Texas Honey Co.
>>P.O. Box 176
>>Vidor, Tx. 77670
>>" A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any prince"
>
>
Humm, I wonder if Vidor TX doesn't have a libray or is he just too
lazy to use it?

Greg the beekeep



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From: "jfl.711" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: THE NEXT BULL MARKET-SOYBEANS
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 10:47:26 -0600
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GET READY FOR THE SPRING AND SUMMER RALLY

http://soybeanmarket.com    for free report




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Don't worry about the algae the bees seem to like stagnant, slighly dirty water.
Iuse birdbath insummer and bees dont like it when it is too clean!!

"Jerome R. Long" wrote:

> Over and over one sees the admonition to provide a water source. It isn't so
> easy if your hive(s) are located some distance from water sources. How should
> one best do it, especially if one isn't at the hive(s) every day? I know you
> just drown bees if you put out a bucket of water. I have tried putting a large
> celulose sponge in a large potted plant dish of water. It doesn't take long
> for the green algae to take over. What is the best way to supply a successful
> low maintenance water supply that is safe for the bees?



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www.entomon.net
'Entomology Discussion Groups'

A free board featuring dedicated conferences and forums for each major
insect order and family, plus a wide variety of other entomology sub
topics - all under one roof.




Article 23307 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Judy and Dave 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Provide a Water Source...how?
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And then there are those of us that use the 2 or 3 gallon chicken waterers.
They basically have a tray on the bottom and the tank is filled from the top and
turned upside down to fill the tray.  We put washed gravel in the tray to keep
the bees up out of the water, also prevents the dogs from drinking it all too
fast.  The tray holds about 2 pints or so and the water can last awhile
depending on the weather.

Judy in Kentucky

Mark G Spagnolo wrote:

> Bees will find water if it is available.  Usually they find water in places
> you didn't even know existed!
>
>  Occasionally they will cause problems.  Bees "drinking" out of a dog's dish
> would be an example!
>
> I have used large plastic Rubbermain stock tanks.  They work well, but you
> have to put something in the water that the bees can land on. I have used
> water hyacinth plants.  They will grow in the water and provide an excellent
> "landing pad" for the bees.  Also, I have put one or two fish, goldfish work
> well, in the tank.  They help keep the water cleaner.
>
> Even though the tanks are located right in the beeyard, the bees tend to
> ignore them if another water source is available.
>
> "L.E.G."  wrote in message
> news:38AF1AA2.7B2FBACC@crosslink.net...
> > Don't worry about the algae the bees seem to like stagnant, slighly dirty
> water.
> > Iuse birdbath insummer and bees dont like it when it is too clean!!
> >
> > "Jerome R. Long" wrote:
> >
> > > Over and over one sees the admonition to provide a water source. It
> isn't so
> > > easy if your hive(s) are located some distance from water sources. How
> should
> > > one best do it, especially if one isn't at the hive(s) every day? I know
> you
> > > just drown bees if you put out a bucket of water. I have tried putting a
> large
> > > celulose sponge in a large potted plant dish of water. It doesn't take
> long
> > > for the green algae to take over. What is the best way to supply a
> successful
> > > low maintenance water supply that is safe for the bees?
> >





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From: "John D'Amico" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: THE NEXT BULL MARKET-SOYBEANS
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 17:09:40 -0500
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BTW, this guy also is spamming misc. invest.stocks with this same BS.

John




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From: Tobi Elmore 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: FW: Varroa Test
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 11:48:17 -0500
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Powdered sugar.

"Billy Y. Smart II" wrote:

> Allen Dick wrote:
>
>> Place a tablespoonful of confectionary sugar in a pint jar along
>> with
>
> What is confectionary sugar?
>
> --
> Billy Y. Smart II
> /* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
> /*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
> /*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */
>
>



Article 23310 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: James Kilty 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: lost queen
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 20:43:30 +0000
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In article , dm
 writes
>Rule of Thumb has been that you put the Queen you WANT  in the top section
>of the colony...that would put your queenless gang on the  bottom....BUT!
>I'll bet you a gallon of honey that  there will be B-Zillions of other
>opinions!     "DM"
As you say. I do it the other way in every case of uniting. The good
queen below and the queenless colony above the newspaper.
-- 
James Kilty


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The spot I want to set hives up in is approximately 500yds. from a
reservoir dam and river. Is that close enough for the bees to utilize?
Glen Archer 
PS - I am a newbie and have posted a couple of questions that went
unanswered. I see the above post where someone complains about lack of
responses and others question the laziness of the original person. I
have read a ton of books, both of Bonneys, the Handbook etc. that give
good information, but I want specific answers to specific questions -
that's all! Thanks, Glen.


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From: James Kilty 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Cleaning glassware
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 20:51:30 +0000
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In article ,
Pete Wolcott  writes
>*What is the best/easiest way to remove beeswax from glassware and
>*stainless steel when they have cooled?
After reading a lot of answers here's another thought. If you can get
your waxed things cold, it peels off (or breaks off when very cold).
-- 
James Kilty


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On Tue, 22 Feb 2000 21:08:54 -0600, Chad Howell 
wrote:

>Today I checked on my hives and found three dead ones. What is puzzling
>to me is that it looks like starvation. The middle frames of two bodies
>were eaten up the middle about 20 cells wide and the rest of the frame
>wasn't touched along with the other 5 frames. I found bees head first in
>cells. I guess my question is, can I install packages into those hives
>and let them feed off the honey left in them. The honey isn't fit for
>consumption due to medications given in the fall. Thanks for any
>insight. Today was a very sad day for me. I mourn the loss of three fine
>colonies.
>Chad Howell
>
I can't think of a better situation for a package of bees.  They will
explode!

Greg the beekeep



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hhurley@cix.compulink.co.uk wrote:

> > Article: 22410 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
> > Path: >
> > nME-Version: 1.0
> > Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
> > Subject: swarm control
> >race: dingus.crosslink.net 950838755 27572 206.246.124.14
> > Xref: news.cix.co.uk sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22410
> >
> > Hello Group!!
> > I read a book on Beekeeping at Buckfast Abbey  by Brother Adam, and it
> > had some interesting points on swarm prevention.
> > I will try to make this short.. 1. Reversing at proper time.  2. Making
> > each hive draw  at least 4 frames of wax in each box (which are
> >modified 12 frame Dadant hives),
> > making the wax switch at the time of reversing.
>
> > Any feedback or info. is needed and welcome...
> > Thanks
> > L.E.G.
>
> Am in full agreement that giving the bees foundation to draw in the
> spring is a deterrent to swarming but dot not understand what you mean
> about "reversing"
>
> Michael
>
> "There are only 24 hours in the day and 7 days in the week."

Hello Mike!
Reversing: When using two  brood boxes, take the top one and put it on
bottom, and the bottom becomes the top.Since most of the bees are in top box
during winter feeding on surplus honey, when you reverse the brood boxes the
bees think there is alot of new unused room above them and move up and
spreadout. This has to be done a couple of week prior to first honeyflow
which varies from area to area.
I hpoe my explanation made sense to you. Maybe someone else could go into
more detail.Nothing is 100% effictive when it come to swarm control..



Article 23315 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: texasdrone@cs.combees (Robert Williamson)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Water - how far is too far?
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>The spot I want to set hives up in is approximately 500yds. from a
>reservoir dam and river. Is that close enough for the bees to utilize?

Hello Glen,

Sounds like you have an excellent location. Just be sure that no ones dog dish
or swimming pool isn't closer. You could experience problems if they are. Bees
will not fly farther than they have to for water. Most of the water gatherers
are the older bees. They generally home in on the nearest RELIABLE source of
water. Something that is always there. Thats why you have problems when its
someones swimming pool. Once they find it..its theirs. The best locations I
have are about 25 yards away from ponds. So any way despite the long
windedness. Yes it should be an excellent location.


Robert Williamson
Southeast Texas Honey Co.
P.O. Box 176
Vidor, Tx. 77670
" A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any prince"


Article 23316 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: gfdavis@usit.net"
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Subject: reversing hives
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I still don't feel comfortable reverseing hives. I have 9 5/8 with a
super on top for the winter. I checked my four hives and 1 had bees
covering at least 4 super frames other three have bees scattered on
the super and most of the stores gone cone looks like they have
cleaned it up.  I put 1 to 1 sugar water on all hives. All hives are
going out and coming back with a white looking polen. I read that if
they were bringing in there was a queen present. I didn't check down
in the hive for brood and queen. The wind was blowing and they were
pretty mad. Do I need to feed beepro also?
GD 


Article 23317 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "George Styer" 
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References: 
Subject: Re: Winter Feeding
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That depends on what you want the feeding to accomplish. If I recall you are
in Colorado. You should be getting some mild days now and this time of year
you should start feeding with thin syrup inside the hive to stimulate brood
rearing. A large zip-lock laid on the top bars above the cluster with about
3 slits works fine. The rising heat of the cluster will prevent freezing.

To ward off starvation in the dead of winter, granulated sugar on top of the
inner cover works fine. You can go to more trouble by making candy. Note
that this type of feeding does nothing for brood rearing and it is probably
getting too close to Spring for this.

This is also the time of year when the newsgroup gets a flood of inquiries
as to the proper proportions of sugar:water for syrup so let me start the
debate. I use the terms "thin" and "thick". Thin means 40:60, 50:50, 60:40,
or even 34:66. You don't need kitchen scales, measuring cups, logarithmic
scales or anything else. It doesn't make a bit of difference if it is by
weight, volume, or mixed in zero gravity. Just use your eyes and make it
"thin" in the ballpark of 50:50. All you are trying to do is simulate a
nectar flow and bees don't wait until there is a nectar source present in
nature that is exactly 50% sugar to begin building. "Thick" means that no
more sugar will go into solution, add sugar till it no longer dissolves.
Simple.

--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To respond via email, get the "L" out of there


"Charles "Stretch" Ledford"  wrote in message
news:HiStretch-2002001902180001@209.138.180.189...
> Greetings, all...
>
> What's the best way to feed a hive during winter, when sub-freezing temps
> will freeze sugar water placed near a hive?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> --
> Charles "Stretch" Ledford
> STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY
> "North America and the Entire World"
> http://www.GoStretch.com




Article 23318 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Bull is right.

Thom

"jfl.711" wrote:
> 
> GET READY FOR THE SPRING AND SUMMER RALLY
> 
> http://soybeanmarket.com    for free report


Article 23319 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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In the context which you pose the question (from the bees preference), I
think location and race need to be figured into the decision of deep vs
medium. For example, how do the different races differ in their wintering
strategies and how is their natural biology adapted to 3 medium vs 2 deep?
Does it make a difference if I am in South Carolina or Massachusetts? I
don't have the answer but just throw it out for discussion.

--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To respond via email, get the "L" out of there


"Barry Meltzer"  wrote in message
news:PsYr4.3193$Py3.63396@typhoon.ne.mediaone.net...
> Sorry to be a pest, but I just thought of the question from a different
> angle, and thought I would bounce it off the group...
>
> Given that the part of the hive in question is really for the bee's use,
> which method (2 deeps or 3 mediums) do you think they would prefer?  Which
> configuration would keep them the healthiest and give them the best
> over-wintering capability?  We live in Massachusetts SSW of Boston.
>
> If this is belaboring the point to much, just let me know.
>
> Thanks,
> Barry
>
> Barry Meltzer  wrote in message
> news:V1nr4.1877$Py3.33659@typhoon.ne.mediaone.net...
> > I am just getting into beekeeping and was wondering what the groups
> > opinions/experiences are with standardizing on medium height supers?
> >
> > I see as advantages:
> >     Reduced weight of 3 mediums instead of 2 larges for the main hive (I
> > live in Massachusetts).
> >             This would hopefully help when my boys get big enough to
work
> on
> > the hives, if they are interested.
> >     Standardizing on only one size of equipment.
> >             Added flexibility and interchangeability.
> >             Less invested over the long run in different size spare
parts.
> >
> > The disadvantages:
> >     Less equipment made for the mediums (ie feeders)
> >     ??
> >
> > What do you think?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Barry
> >
> >
>
>




Article 23320 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: honeybs@radix.net
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Subject: Re: lost queen
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 01:00:21 GMT
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On Sun, 27 Feb 2000 20:43:30 +0000, James Kilty
 wrote:

>In article , dm
> writes
>>Rule of Thumb has been that you put the Queen you WANT  in the top section
>>of the colony...that would put your queenless gang on the  bottom....BUT!
>>I'll bet you a gallon of honey that  there will be B-Zillions of other
>>opinions!     "DM"
>As you say. I do it the other way in every case of uniting. The good
>queen below and the queenless colony above the newspaper.
>-- 
>James Kilty

Be careful with the newspaper.  I did it once and used the funny
sheets.  The bees got to laughing so bad the whole hive shook!  I
thought they would never settle down.

Newspaper?  Bees can't read.  

Greg the beekeep



Article 23321 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: texasdrone@cs.combees (Robert Williamson)
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Subject: Re: Dissappointment
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>Humm, I wonder if Vidor TX doesn't have a libray or is he just too
>lazy to use it?
>
>Greg the beekeep
>

It sure does greg. And I have read every book on bees in it along with all of
the other local cities. It was the very first thing I did when I got involved
in beekeeping. Lazy...
Ha...that does give me a good laugh. How many other two man teams do you know
that maintain 3700 hives and produce between 500 ,000 and 600,000 pounds of
honey a year with the help of a few high school kids in the summer. Thats my
day job. After I'm through there I run an additional 150 hives on my own. On
the weekends I have taken to galavanting around the state at trade days to seek
a decent price for my bee products and in doing so also spread the wonder of
bees to many people. I have even visited several major French beekeepers in
search of knowledge. I got more information from them than anyone else and I
don't even speak the language. 

Lazy is not the word I would choose to describe my self.

 I have recently started pollen and propolis collections. I have built up a
large consumer base for my pollen. My questions are simple and can't readily be
answered by a book.

1. Does anyone else collect pollen. If so what are your daily averages per
hive. 

2. Does anyone else collect propolis? If so how much do you average per hive.

3. Does anyone have any recipes for beeswax polishes or creams.

In all my quests for knowledge I have accepted the fact that not everything is
found in a book...greg. The best knowledge is found in the heads of
experimentors and old timers and that is what I'm looking for.

I seem to remember you  making a comment the other day that now that it is warm
we can get back to keeping bees. Well good beekeeping is year round. We see our
bees at least once a month sometimes twice. Forgive me if that comment was not
yours, but I seem to associate it with your name.

Before you judge a man you need to spend a day in his boots. 

Robert Williamson
Southeast Texas Honey Co.
P.O. Box 176
Vidor, Tx. 77670
" A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any prince"


Article 23322 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hhurley@cix.compulink.co.uk
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: swarm control
Date: 20 Feb 2000 14:07:12 GMT
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> Article: 22410 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
> Path: >
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> Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
> Subject: swarm control
>race: dingus.crosslink.net 950838755 27572 206.246.124.14
> Xref: news.cix.co.uk sci.agriculture.beekeeping:22410
> 
> Hello Group!!
> I read a book on Beekeeping at Buckfast Abbey  by Brother Adam, and it
> had some interesting points on swarm prevention.
> I will try to make this short.. 1. Reversing at proper time.  2. Making
> each hive draw  at least 4 frames of wax in each box (which are 
>modified 12 frame Dadant hives),
> making the wax switch at the time of reversing. 

> Any feedback or info. is needed and welcome...
> Thanks
> L.E.G.

Am in full agreement that giving the bees foundation to draw in the 
spring is a deterrent to swarming but dot not understand what you mean 
about "reversing"

Michael



"There are only 24 hours in the day and 7 days in the week."


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Subject: Re: New Hobbyist Equipment Question
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> Article: 22414 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
> Path: 
>  Subject: Re: New Hobbyist Equipment Question
>  
> Some main disadvantages of medium-depth brood chambers would be:
> 



> If I were starting from scratch, I'd go with the mediums, too.
> 

Under this heading there has been a lot of discussion on the pros and 
cons of Deeps, Medium and Shallows.

Do all these refer to the Langstroth width with deeps MD size 11 1/4 
inch, 9 1/4 for Medium and 6 1/4 deep MD shallow and 5 1/2 for 
Langstroth shallow ?.

Though I use 10 Frame Langstroth brood most people in these 
climates (Ireland and the UK) use National or the larger Commercial 
frames in single brood boxes which is all that out broken summers and 
dark bees can cope with.

Michael (from Dublin)



"There are only 24 hours in the day and 7 days in the week."


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In article <89cc4d$rae$1@bob.news.rcn.net>, julie.john@erols.com 
says...
> I am pleased to report
> that the bees are out and about!
> 
> 
Cool, man, cool!


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From: "Clark" 
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Subject: A place to buy/sell/trade entomologcal specimens and related items -
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A web site for insect dealers and traders, entomological suppliers, insect
hobbyists, collectors, etc. The place where buyers and sellers meet:

www.InsectNet.com
Buy/sell/trade entomological specimens and related items. Free Insect
Classifieds. Supplier listings, message board, links, bookstore, and more.
We can also host mini-web pages for those who would like to post extended
price lists.




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Hi Michael -

Referring to 6 5/8" supers, with length and width of regular (10-frame)
Langstroth size.
They take 6 1/4" frames.  They are sometimes called
"medium-depth,"three-quarter-depth," "Illinois," or "Dadant-depth
shallow."

The "deeps" referred to are the standard 10-fr Lanstroth deep chambers,
9 5/8" deep, and taking 9 1/8" frames.

The Modified Dadant and Jumbo Langstroth brood chambers using 11+ inch
frames are not used much anymore, on this side of the pond.  One
supplier in Quebec still offers Jumbo's, or did last I knew.  I have
come across a few of them, but they were very old.

For surplus honey storage, some people still prefer the Langstroth
shallow super (usually deemed a "shallow super", as opposed to a
"medium").  It is a somewhat lighter in weight when full of  honey,
being 5 11/16" deep.

We don't have the variety of hives over here that you do in UK.
By the way, one question:  which is more popular there -- the Br.
commercial brood chamber, or the 10 (or 11) frame Langstroth?
There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of difference in volume between the
two.  (But then the Br. comm. is compatible with the common "Br.
modified-national" size floors and roofs, so there is some
interchangeability there --  right?)

later,
Joel




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Chad,

Give it a good check for foul brood and then put in your new package.  The
new bees will clean out the old ones and take care of the honey left in the
hive.  Be sure to feed them too.

chris
Chris and Janet Sauer
Colesburg Apiaries
www.greathoney.com

Chad Howell wrote:

> Today I checked on my hives and found three dead ones. What is puzzling
> to me is that it looks like starvation. The middle frames of two bodies
> were eaten up the middle about 20 cells wide and the rest of the frame
> wasn't touched along with the other 5 frames. I found bees head first in
> cells. I guess my question is, can I install packages into those hives
> and let them feed off the honey left in them. The honey isn't fit for
> consumption due to medications given in the fall. Thanks for any
> insight. Today was a very sad day for me. I mourn the loss of three fine
> colonies.
> Chad Howell



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From: terry 
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Subject: Carnolian Queens?
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 22:23:36 GMT
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I am hobbiest beekeep in north GA and am interested in trying a new
breed of bee.  There is an old timer in the area that says that he likes
Carnolian bees but I wonder if what he really has are Carnolians.  His
bees are a very yellow and I understand that Carnolians are a darker
race.  My Question: are Carnolians suited to the hot summers of GA?  And
Do they have peak numbers in July when the area sourwood is in bloom?
Where is there a good source of Crnln queens in the south east?

Any experience in these areas is GREATLY appreciated.


terry


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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<>

   If it's 2 hives you're uniting and they both have queens, put the one on top
that you want to survive. The top queen will have the advantage as she drops
down onto her opponent. At least that's the reasoning as I read it somewhere.
Others caution that sometimes both queens are killed in the battle so it's
risky.
   If it's a queenless colony you're uniting with a queenright colony, you can
put the queenless bunch on top. I did that last year with a "swarm" that turned
out to be the foraging force of a tree hive that someone had dumped pesticide
in at noon. By 5 p.m., there were thousands of angry bees hanging out at the
edge of a hole so toxic they wouldn't even try to crawl back in. A word to the
wise: One of the questions you should ask before helping someone with a swarm
is if anybody has been using pesticide on the bees.
   Anyway, those bees pumped up a small afterswarm hive real well. I cut one
little slit in the newspaper and by the next morning they were all down with
their new family.
Cheers,
John


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Subject: Re: Carnolian Queens?
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On Mon, 21 Feb 2000 22:23:36 GMT, terry 
wrote:

>I am hobbiest beekeep in north GA and am interested in trying a new
>breed of bee.  There is an old timer in the area that says that he likes
>Carnolian bees but I wonder if what he really has are Carnolians.  His
>bees are a very yellow and I understand that Carnolians are a darker
>race.  My Question: are Carnolians suited to the hot summers of GA?  And
>Do they have peak numbers in July when the area sourwood is in bloom?
>Where is there a good source of Crnln queens in the south east?
>
>Any experience in these areas is GREATLY appreciated.
>
>
>terry
>
Try Busby's Apiaries.  His Carnis are so gentle you can work them
stark naked without smoke!  504 735-5330 is his number.

Greg the beekeep


  


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The bees were bringing in pollen today.  Maple and something else,
maybe skunk cabbage.  All hell is getting ready to break loose.  We
can get out of the house and back to beekeeping again!

Greg the beekeep



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Here is way I have use when it gets hot
here in Oklahoma I use two boardman
entrance feeders pr. hive


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Sorry to be a pest, but I just thought of the question from a different
angle, and thought I would bounce it off the group...

Given that the part of the hive in question is really for the bee's use,
which method (2 deeps or 3 mediums) do you think they would prefer?  Which
configuration would keep them the healthiest and give them the best
over-wintering capability?  We live in Massachusetts SSW of Boston.

If this is belaboring the point to much, just let me know.

Thanks,
Barry

Barry Meltzer  wrote in message
news:V1nr4.1877$Py3.33659@typhoon.ne.mediaone.net...
> I am just getting into beekeeping and was wondering what the groups
> opinions/experiences are with standardizing on medium height supers?
>
> I see as advantages:
>     Reduced weight of 3 mediums instead of 2 larges for the main hive (I
> live in Massachusetts).
>             This would hopefully help when my boys get big enough to work
on
> the hives, if they are interested.
>     Standardizing on only one size of equipment.
>             Added flexibility and interchangeability.
>             Less invested over the long run in different size spare parts.
>
> The disadvantages:
>     Less equipment made for the mediums (ie feeders)
>     ??
>
> What do you think?
>
> Thanks,
> Barry
>
>




Article 23334 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: HiStretch@GoStretch.com (Charles "Stretch" Ledford)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Winter Feeding
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 18:49:40 -0600
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In article ,
"George Styer"  wrote:

> That depends on what you want the feeding to accomplish. If I recall you are
> in Colorado. You should be getting some mild days now and this time of year
> you should start feeding with thin syrup inside the hive to stimulate brood
> rearing. A large zip-lock laid on the top bars above the cluster with about
> 3 slits works fine. The rising heat of the cluster will prevent freezing.

You have a good memory!  I'm indeed in Colorado Springs.

I opened the hive today for the first time since fall, and there is what
seems to me a good amount of capped honey in there.  Not many frames that
are completely full, but many that are half or more than half full.

There are also a lot of uncapped cells that have what I what I think is a
mixture of pollen and honey in them.

Interestingly, when I had the hive open, I saw one bee flying around with
pollen on her legs.  Given the time of year, this surprised me.  I didn't
see her actually bringing it INTO the hive, so I suppose she could be
moving around pollen that was already in the hive.  Any ideas?  Is there
pollen to be gathered  at this time of the year at 6500 feet?  (Matthew
Westall, are you out there?)

I was pleasantly surprised by how healthy the colony seemed to be.  Lots
of bees flying around and getting semi-pissed that I was opening their
home.  I took this level of activity to be a good sign.

I put a fair amount of granulated sugar on the inner cover, just for good
measure.

I'm curious about your zip-lock suggestion.  If I understand correctly,
you're saying to put it on top of the bottom brood box, yes?  This is
where I put a Crisco patty in the fall.  If this is the place, I would
imagine that the bag would have to have not very much syrup in it so as to
not burst under the weight of the top brood box, yes?  Should the slits be
facing up or down?

Finally, one interesting point:

I have an indoor-outdoor thermometer set up to measure the temp outside
the hive and the temp inside.  The sensor for the inside rests right
between the two brood boxes, near what's left of the Crisco patty.  We had
a real cold snap a couple of weeks ago, and the thermometer indicated that
the temp inside the hive was below freezing!  This scared the crap out of
me, and I thought the girls might've frozen to death.

Today's foray into the hive seems to disprove this assumption, but I'm
curious how the temp could get down so low inside the hive, and the colony
still survive.  I thought they had to keep it up in the 50s...

Thanks for your suggestions and patience.

-- 
Charles "Stretch" Ledford
STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY
"North America and the Entire World"
http://www.GoStretch.com


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From: HiStretch@GoStretch.com (Charles "Stretch" Ledford)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: super protection
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 18:57:08 -0600
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In article <38B09AC8.9E3949A@netnitco.net>, Chad Howell
 wrote:

> I was wondering if it's ok to coat new hive bodies with an oil bases
> stain with a wood protectant in it. It gets very tiresome priming and
> then painting wooden ware. The stain would be much quicker.

Before she would let me put a hive in our back yard, my wife made me
promise her that it wouldn't "look like those ugly white boxes" other
beekeepers have.

I used a common, clear varnish on all the outer wood surfaces.  Happy
wife, happy bees, happy beekeeper!  ;)

-- 
Charles "Stretch" Ledford
STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY
"North America and the Entire World"
http://www.GoStretch.com


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From: texasdrone@cs.combees (Robert Williamson)
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Hi group, 

Just wondering if anyone else has tried collecting pollen and propolis. I need
to know about how much propolis I can expect to harvest from a single hive. I
am also interested in knowing what the maximum amount of pollen you should be
able to collect. I've only been able to collect about a pouind a day from a
strong hive. Would appreciate an help. Oh I am also interested in beeswas
polish and soap recipes.

Thanks
Robert Williamson
Southeast Texas Honey Co.
P.O. Box 176
Vidor, Tx. 77670
" A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any prince"


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>I still don't feel comfortable reverseing hives. 

Hi gang,

I kinda wanted to jump on the wagon here just a min.
The process of reversing hives is not just a every hive thing. You have to
inspect your hives in the early spring late winter and see if it's needed.

I went through 17 hives last Sat. Of the 17 only 5 needed reversing.
If the queen is laying in the bottom box and everything looks ok then do not
reverse.
If you do reverse and it's not needed you will be causing the problem that
reversing is designed to prevent !!!

Oh Btw, NO HIVE BEETLES FOUND !!!!!!

Yahooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC



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A picture is worth 1,000 words. Notice the feeder ring, a super will work
too.
http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/feeding.htm

My wife just bought me some 2 gallon bags that are about 13 x 15 that work
great.

--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To respond via email, get the "L" out of there


"Charles "Stretch" Ledford"  wrote in message
news:HiStretch-2102001849400001@209.138.165.161...
> I'm curious about your zip-lock suggestion.  If I understand correctly,
> you're saying to put it on top of the bottom brood box, yes?  This is
> where I put a Crisco patty in the fall.  If this is the place, I would
> imagine that the bag would have to have not very much syrup in it so as to
> not burst under the weight of the top brood box, yes?  Should the slits be
> facing up or down?





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From: HiStretch@GoStretch.com (Charles "Stretch" Ledford)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Winter Feeding
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 20:54:49 -0600
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In article ,
"George Styer"  wrote:

> A picture is worth 1,000 words. Notice the feeder ring, a super will work
> too.
> http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/feeding.htm
> 
> My wife just bought me some 2 gallon bags that are about 13 x 15 that work
> great.
> 
> --
> Geo
> Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
> "Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
> gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
> To respond via email, get the "L" out of there
> 
> 
> "Charles "Stretch" Ledford"  wrote in message
> news:HiStretch-2102001849400001@209.138.165.161...
> > I'm curious about your zip-lock suggestion.  If I understand correctly,
> > you're saying to put it on top of the bottom brood box, yes?  This is
> > where I put a Crisco patty in the fall.  If this is the place, I would
> > imagine that the bag would have to have not very much syrup in it so as to
> > not burst under the weight of the top brood box, yes?  Should the slits be
> > facing up or down?

Thanks for that link, George!  Couple of final questions... 

The bag is placed between or on top of the two brood boxes?  Or does it matter?

Also, you mention that this type of feeding stimulates brood rearing...
Could it  therefore possibly be counter productive to begin this type of
feeding too early in the year?

Thanks again.

-- 
Charles "Stretch" Ledford
STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY
"North America and the Entire World"
http://www.GoStretch.com


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Hey Thanks JGinNY
Good Job with reply!! I'll also bet you type faster than I do!!

JGinNY wrote:

> >
> >  1. Reversing at proper time.
>
> Well, if the colony is in double brood chambers.  During winter the bees
> tend to migrate up into the upper box, as they consume their winter food
> supplies.  In temperate areas, at least.  When brood rearing resumes, then,
> it is usually mainly in the upper box.  If the chambers aren' reversed in
> the spring, the bees can be reluctant to make good use of the available
> comb space downstairs.  (They tend to expand the nest "upward" and are slow
> to move back down on their own.)
>
> > 2. Making each hive draw
> > at least 4 frames of wax in each box (which are modified 12 frame Dadant
> > hives), making the wax switch at the time of reversing.
>
> A 12- frame "Buckfast Dadant" hive (or 11-fr. Modified Dadant hive) is
> intended to be used as a single brood-chamber hive only.
> Management for these large hives is somewhat different than for
> double-brood chambers.  Reversing is not done, rather, the brood is
> gradually "spread" during the spring, so the bees are allowed to occupy
> more and more combs, until the nest fills the entire chamber.
> Basically. the only time reversing might be resorted to with the large
> hives would be when a shallow super of honey was left on as extra food
> reserves over winter).
>
> Another way to allow the bees to satisfy their comb-building ambitions is
> to use widely-spaced frames in the honey-supers.  Such as 8 frames spaced
> evenly across a 10-fr. super.  The bees can then build out the combs so
> they are very thick.  It makes uncapping easier later on.
>
> > 3. Also at time of
> > reversing replacebottom board with freash clean one, this is not only for
> > swarm control,
> > but to knock down diseases.
>
> My impression is that this would have little or nothing at all to do with
> the urge for swarming.  It is a good idea to have clean floors, but all the
> beekeepers I know just scrape the litter off of them during the first
> spring inspection.  That's the extent of it.  If a bottom-board is really
> soaked and mildewy I might replace it with a clean, dry one, but in time
> they dry off OK anyway.
>
> > All of these points seem to lean toward the fact that
> > bees seem to like a nice clean, freash and tidy place to stay. Once they
> > have trashed one place to live they look for another clean one .
>
> Hmmm.  I dunno.  Never heard that theory before.  I have seen colonies in
> some pretty ugly trees that were pretty filthy inside, and as far as I know
> they didn't swarm very often.  I've also seen swarms take up residence in
> old equipment that was pretty damn foul, and they seemed to be content with
> their home just the same ( if a bunch of bees can be content...).



Article 23341 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Kellen" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Add your beekeeping site to GrowSearch
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GrowSearch
Search Engine for Farm and Garden

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------

=20
Hello,
I would like to invite you to add your ag related website to GrowSearch. =
 GrowSearch is a search engine for farmers and gardeners.  It's =
absolutely free, and it only takes a few seconds.  We had 15,000 hits =
last month (our first month online).  We expect well over 30,000 this =
month!  This is an easy way to get some extra traffic to your site for =
free!
Go to: http://growsearch.hypermart.net then click on "Add URL"

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=20
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 GrowSearch Admin


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GrowSearch


Search =
Engine for Farm=20
and Garden








 


Hello,


I would like to invite you to add your ag related =
website to=20
GrowSearch.  GrowSearch is a search engine for farmers and =
gardeners. =20
It's absolutely free, and it only takes a few seconds.  We had =
15,000 hits=20
last month (our first month online).  We expect well over 30,000 =
this=20
month!  This is an easy way to get some extra traffic to your site =
for=20
free!


Go to: http://growsearch.hypermart.net<=
/A> then=20
click on "Add URL"


 


Best of Luck!


 


-Kellen Weissenbach


 GrowSearch Admin


 


------=_NextPart_000_005F_01BF7CBE.EF6A1300--



Article 23342 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: C.K. 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Mesquite Honey.
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 05:59:02 GMT
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In article 
Old Drone  wrote:

> Dear All,
> Can anyone give me an acurate description of the colour, flavour and
> properties of this honey. I need to surprise someone with "knowledge."
> My books mention it but it is literally just a mention.

Having bees surrounded by mesquite but other acacia types as well, it is al=
ways hard to be precise as there are really three different types of honey =
that is saved here during the season.  However as Mesquite blooms in good y=
ears (years with rain in April, May, and June) it fairly safe to say the ho=
ney that comes in during that time is the best of the three and that would =
be predominately mesquite.

Having said that: I would just say that Acacia honey is the best in the wor=
ld, (Steve Tabor agrees) and Mesquite is an Acacia.  The honey in it's fine=
ry is golden in color with a mysteriously translucent effect when held up t=
o the light. After  aging of several months the aroma is somewhat like the =
blossoms themselves, and that is hard to describe but imagine a very expens=
ive perfume purchased in a very expensive store in Paris and you know how i=
t kind of goes on too strong at first but then settles down and you only ge=
t a whiff when you're very close and the effect is electrifying and immedia=
tely brings forth a feeling of wellbeing and that's the effect of the aroma=
 of mesquite honey but indeed it is mixed acacias and all that which blooms=
 briefly in a desert setting.  Possibly you should request a sample of this=
 magic stuff and try it for yourself, and if there is any poet in you, well=
, you may be able to describe it and if you could your book would be very m=
uch worth a read.

C.K.



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Subject: Re: THE NEXT BULL MARKET-SOYBEANS
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Wonder if this is reliable enough to buy a new tractor on?

On Sun, 27 Feb 2000 10:47:26 -0600, "jfl.711" 
wrote:

>GET READY FOR THE SPRING AND SUMMER RALLY
>
>http://soybeanmarket.com    for free report
>
>





Article 23344 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: honeybs@radix.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Dissappointment
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On Mon, 28 Feb 2000 22:29:52 +0000, James Kilty
 wrote:

>In article <20000227200643.14207.00002146@ng-ce1.news.cs.com>, Robert
>Williamson  writes
>>3. Does anyone have any recipes for beeswax polishes or creams.
>I haven't got the book to hand, but from memory this one has some. If
>the group doesn't come up with more, I'll have a look in our library and
>see what I can dig out. This is my year to make and sell some.
>White E.C., Super Formulas (Arts and Crafts), Valley Hills Press, 1993
>
>-- 
>James Kilty
Yep and it is listed in all the major bee supply catalogs.

Greg the beekeep



Article 23345 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Thom Bradley 
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Do not use anything to melt wax that you ever want to use for something
else. the wax removal is just too difficult.

Thom

"Patrick M. Hennessey" wrote:
> 
> What is the best/easiest way to remove beeswax from glassware and
> stainless steel when they have cooled?  I have a glass Dutch oven that
> I use to melt wax cappings with and I am looking for an easy way to
> clean it.  I also use a few wax molds that I need to clean.  Thank you
> for the help.
> 
> Pat


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Subject: Re: Dissappointment
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>Maybe your request was too broad.

My request are broad hoping someone will see an opportunity to share some info.
I am interested in Beeswax furniture polish and soap recipes. 

The recipes are the least of my concerns though I was hoping to start a
dialogue with someone who collects pollen. Yes Greg I understand that with bees
everything is regional. Pollen however is pretty universal especially during
the spring  and summer months. My questions and concerns dealing with pollen
are.

What is the effectiveness of your trap. Mine is under 50%
A hive must have between 1 to 1.5 pounds of pollen per day this time of year to
survive on. So you don't want too effective of a trap. 

Has anyone left their pollen traps active for an lengthy duration at one time.
So far the longest that I  have left them on is for five days straight and went
in to study. I found ample pollen stores and 12 frames of brood including eggs.
I am worried about taking to much pollen from them because the result is the
canibalization of brood for protein and the Queen ceasing to lay eggs. Has any
one else had this problem. 

How does one prevent moisture damage to the pollen if you let the traps go
unattended for say a week? Is there a way?

Does anyone have an effective way to clean the pollen other than using air to
blow the particles out. While in france I visited the Domain de Chezelles. They
can be found on the internet. They use a large many layered grain sifter to
sort out barrels of pollen. After that they use an interesting machine which
consists of a parabolic disc which rotates slowly causing the heavier pollen
particles to migrate down to a chute while the trash stays toward the top. 

Pollen really is natures super food. I would recommend that all beekeepers
should be taking it given the cost effectiveness;) 

I would be really interested in talking with someone with some knowledge on
this subject. Until recently I have been strictly a Honey producer. This is the
only beekeeping I am used to. Taking pollen from a hive is an all together
different type of beekeeping. Your hives have to be stronger earlier and later
and by taking pollen from the hive you are causing them to slow down their
build up process. Everything you do is different compared to just harvesting
honey. Taking maximum pollen while getting maximum honey is a good trick. I was
hoping someone might shed some light and experience on me.

Propolis...well I'm just curious is someone actually sells  it and in what
form. Propolis production is mainly based on the type of bee rather than Regio
and does not affect the hive to much. I keep three banded Italians. They are
not known for their propolis skills but I say they do try.

I appreciate the fact the I have finally gotten some responses and there are
people who want to help. I thank you. In response to another letter. I say
this. I have many books. Some of which you name. (although I don't find Dr.
Roger Morse very good reading or informative, especially his Mead making book) 
I prefer the Mead that I found in france made by a old man who cannot even
write. I'll be glad to share it when I have had time to sit down a recreate it.
I am always looking and searching for what is not found in those books. I would
rather have something that someone has tried and that has had success. I know
of two different  soap makers who make the most wonderful honey and beeswax
soaps. I have not been able to recreate them. Mostly because they refuse to
give up their secrets. I'm  one of  their biggest customers and resale most of
what I buy. That is the biggest problem with talking with local people...The
competition. I had hoped that over the internet people would be more willing to
share because there is no threat of competition.

This summer I would like to buy a couple of barrels of honey from someone. I am
looking for a different taste to market. Does anyone have a unique flavor of
honey? Honey is an amazing thing. 

I started beekeeping six years ago and have been hooked ever since. I am now 26
as of the 14th. So far I'm the youngest beekeeper in my area. Theres not alot
of new blood coming into the business. Kids just aren't interested. Anyway its
time to go. I hope I haven't bored you to much with specifics.

Happy Splitting

 (we're making a 1000:(   tough year with resistance)




Robert Williamson
Southeast Texas Honey Co.
P.O. Box 176
Vidor, Tx. 77670
" A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any prince"


Article 23347 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: lauramleek@aol.com (LauraMLeek)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: reversing hives
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where are your hives located? It's kinda hard to answer specific bee questions
if we don't know where your hives are.

Laura


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From: christopher.slade@zbee.com (Christopher Slade)
To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Hives in Shed ?
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Yes and no.  Yes, plenty of people keep hives in sheds successfully and it is
the standard method in parts of continental Europe.  No, you are unlikely to
keep it secret for long; somebody (probably you) will talk.  However I have
heard of a lady who kept bees in the attic of her house without the knowledge
of her husband who had said she shouldn't have bees so all things are possible.
Chris Slade

---
 * Origin: Beenet Point (240:244/186)


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From: shelley corbin 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: liquid smoker
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i tried to use an onion bag, but it wouldnt burn at all. will keep
trying decent cloth too, although i am going to try that liquid smoke
too.



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From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Larvin 3.2 & bees
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<>

   I talked to a hobbyist with one hive about a mile south of the farmer's
field where the Larvin is being sprayed. She says she used to pull as much as
300 pounds off this one hive, but starting about three years ago, the hive
started dying off in the summertime and early fall. "The bees would just
disappear," she said. The remaining ones would crawl around and look weak.
   Coincidentally, the leases on farmed fields owned by the nearby town comes
up every 5 years, and 3 years ago was about the last time all the fields had
their leases renewed, or new farmers took over. I am located in Eastern Mass.
   She said the bee inspector had come out and blamed mites, saying that there
were some hives from Mexico brought into the area with some really bad mites.
   Does what she describe sound like a pesticide kill? Is it possible that when
people talk about "disappearing bees" and mites, they are really encountering a
pesticide hit?
John


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From: "Jenn C" 
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Subject: Re: Dissappointment
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:)




honeybs@radix.net wrote in message <38b93758.251409136@news1.radix.net>...
>On Sun, 27 Feb 2000 06:49:38 -0600, "busybee" 
>wrote:
>
>>
>>Robert Williamson wrote in message
>><20000226193619.02785.00001690@ng-ft1.news.cs.com>...
>>>So far in the past six months I have posted numerous requests for any
>>>information on pollen, propolis, and any recipes involving beeswax. To
date
>>I
>>
>>
>>
>>Try to be more specific on what you are looking for.  I don't believe
anyone
>>has the time to sit down and post general knowlege or information.
>>
>>I'm sure 99% of us on this newsgroup would be happy to reply if you could
be
>>more specific in what you are looking for.
>>
>>Please re-submit your questions.
>>
>>>have gotten 0 replies. You would think that with all the subscribers to
>>this
>>>newsgroup there would be at least one person with some useful
information.
>>>Robert Williamson
>>>Southeast Texas Honey Co.
>>>P.O. Box 176
>>>Vidor, Tx. 77670
>>>" A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any
prince"
>>
>>
>Humm, I wonder if Vidor TX doesn't have a libray or is he just too
>lazy to use it?
>
>Greg the beekeep
>




Article 23352 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Paul Petty 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Package bees by mid March?
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:15:07 -0800
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I'm looking for about 6 bee packages to be shipped to me by mid March.
I'm near Portland, Oregon.  The packages we get here usually come from
northern California, but they aren't available until about April 1.  I
would like to get an earlier start on a few if possible.  If you have
some, or know of a supplier who will ship here, please let me know
privately.

Thanks,
Paul Petty
paulp@ims.com



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I have a friend who has one for sale.  I'll forward this on to him .....

Erick and Wendy Platt wrote:

> I'm looking for a small two frame extractor at a good price.  I'd like
> to find a good used handcrank extractor.  I'm in northern Indiana.
> Please let me know if anyone has any leads.
> Erick



Article 23354 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Entomology Discussion Groups
Date: 22 Feb 2000 08:01:55 -0500
Organization: Self-Organized.      Dig that.
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In article ,
Clark  wrote:
>www.entomon.net
>'Entomology Discussion Groups'
>
>A free board featuring dedicated conferences and forums for each major
>insect order and family, plus a wide variety of other entomology sub
>topics - all under one roof.

Cool. Who sponsors this site?
Adam

-- 
Adam Finkelstein
adamf@radix.net
http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf


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From: Glen & Zoe <6archers@home.com>
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Just a short note to say thanks to the people who have taken the time to
respond to my newbie questions, either on here or by e-mail. Nice to see
that there are people willing to help newcomers. Thanks folks. Regards,
Glen Archer.  PS - Still would like a response to the question about
buying a colony I posted earlier.


Article 23356 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: christopher.slade@zbee.com (Christopher Slade)
To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: rearing queens
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Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 23:47:20 +0000
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To make a 2 queen colony, make an artificial swarm with the queen in a new
brood box on the old stand. Add QE and super, then a board with a top entrance
and the old brood box with all the brood.  The top box has no flying bees so
make sure it has plenty of stores: feed may well be a good idea.  They will
raise queen cells. You can use some of these elsewhere but leave a good one to
emerge and mate from the top entrance. When she is laying, replace the board
with a QE with a top entrance.  When convenient, unite the two halves and the
new queen wil usually replace her mother.
That is a 7 sentence digest of the idea.  For more detail read Ron Brown's
little publication "A simple 2 queen system"
Chris Slade

---
 * Origin: Beenet Point (240:244/186)


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From: "Genuine Telecron Movement" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: HoneyBees as Anti-personnel mine detectors?
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Found this curious story on The Matt Drudge Report page. Enjoy!

www.drudgereport.com


--------------cut---------------------


Honeybees May Aid Landmine Detection

By Paul Recer
AP Science Writer

Monday, Feb. 21, 2000; 6:54 p.m. EST

WASHINGTON √√ Scientists are investigating the keen noses of honeybees and
other insects as a possible way to detect landmines, a remnant of war that
kills thousands of people every year.

Honeybees have such an exquisite sense of smell that they can detect the
vapor that wafts from the ground from the explosives in buried landmines.
Traces of the chemicals are then carried by the bee back to its hive.

Jerry J. Bromenshenk, speaking at the national meeting of the American
Association for the Advancement of Science, said Monday that researchers now
hope to exploit this remarkable talent of the honeybee to identify areas
that have been mined and, perhaps, even pinpoint individual mines.

"Honeybees can pick up traces of all sorts of contaminants," said
Bromenshenk, a researcher at the University of Montana in Missoula. "Our
studies have shown that they can distinguish individual explosive
compounds."

The trick, he said, is getting this information from the bees.

Under a contract with the U.S. Army, Bromenshenk and a group of researchers
have already shown that by putting sensors inside beehives they can tell if
a bee foraging in the field has detected an explosive compound and carried
traces of it back to the hive.

The next step is to follow the bee back to the place where it found the
explosive.

Bromenshenk said his group has developed tiny antennae that can be placed on
individual bees, allowing them to be tracked electronically as far as 900
feet from the hive.

For now, the antennae are too large to be practical, but the scientists are
working on a radio frequency chip that could be quickly glued on and easily
carried by the insect.

Researchers are also trying to exploit the keen senses of cockroaches and
wasps to detect landmines, said Bromenshenk. The bees also are being trained
to seek out the distinctive odor of explosives.

"They are easy to train," said Bromenshenk, adding that all that's needed is
to give the insect a sugar water reward for flying to the target and
returning the hive.

He said it is clear that a hive of bees could be used to detect the presence
of explosives in an area of about one square mile. Using a series of
electronically-equipped hives, he said it would be possible to narrow down
the presence of mines to an area the size of a room.

"Whether or not they can be used to pinpoint the explosive is still an open
question," he said.

Landmines left behind in abandoned battlefields are a major health threat in
many countries of the world, said Regina Dugan of the Defense Advanced
Research Projects Agency.

She said American soldiers had to contend with more than 2 million landmines
left in Bosnia. In Cambodia, where war raged for years, one in every 236
civilians has been killed or wounded by a land mine. Thousands of people
annually, in dozens of countries, fall victim to land mines, she said.

Current land mine removal systems use metal detectors to locate the mines.
Clearing teams then must use sharp sticks to investigate the buried object
that triggered the metal detector, said Dugan. This is extremely tedious
work because the metal detectors give scores of false alarms for every mine
detected -- and each false alarm can cost the mine clearing teams about 10
minutes to investigate.

"The holy grail of mine detection," she said, is a system that would respond
to vapor given off by the explosive within the mine. This would prevent
false signals from thousands of bits of metal from spent shells that
commonly litter a battlefield.

While work with bees continues, Dugan said a device, called a nuclear
quadrupole resonance, or NQR, also has been developed that can successfully
detect the common type of explosives used in landmines. This concept has
been successfully tested and units may be ready for field use within three
years, she said.





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From: "John D'Amico" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Water - how far is too far?
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 18:32:24 -0500
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Glen & Zoe <6archers@home.com> wrote in message
<38B9B152.84A0936F@home.com>...
>The spot I want to set hives up in is approximately 500yds. from a
>reservoir dam and river. Is that close enough for the bees to utilize?

Yes.

>PS - I am a newbie and have posted a couple of questions that went
>unanswered. I see the above post where someone complains about lack of
>responses and others question the laziness of the original person. I
>have read a ton of books, both of Bonneys, the Handbook etc. that give
>good information, but I want specific answers to specific questions -
>that's all! Thanks, Glen.

You have a cross section of people from many walks of life, different
temperaments, etc. so any type of a response on a newsgroup is possible.
I've been away from this NG since last year but I've found that most
questions get answered and the general tone on this particular newsgroup is
usually good with many willing to help if they can.  BTW, here in South
Jersey we have had a few days of warm weather and I am pleased to report
that the bees are out and about!

John




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From: bobpursley@aol.com (Bob Pursley)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: rearing queens
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In article <38B1EA89.B9BE3AC4@winco.net>, Bill Wallace 
writes:

>
>I would like some info on running  a two queen colony.  If anyone has
>had experance with this it. your input would be quite helpful I lost
>most of my bees last year tring to rebuild this year. thank you
>
>
>
>

The USDA printed an excellent handbook on this, I recommend you get it.  Call
your local Ag agent.


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From: James Kilty 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Winter Feeding
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 22:29:57 +0000
Message-ID: 
References: 
 
 
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In article , Charles
"Stretch" Ledford  writes
>the temp inside the hive was below freezing!  This scared the crap out of
>me, and I thought the girls might've frozen to death.
>
>Today's foray into the hive seems to disprove this assumption, but I'm
>curious how the temp could get down so low inside the hive, and the colony
>still survive. 

Marvellous creatures are they not. Inside the cluster is where the
action is - up to 36 degrees C if there is brood. Once again we see that
bees are their own best insulators. The clustering conserves heat
incredibly well. That's where the warmth is. A little honey digested
produces enough for them to keep warm with no brood - a lot more for the
higher temperatures with brood and the brood food.

-- 
James Kilty


Article 23361 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "William Cantrell" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Screen bottoms and Fire Ants
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 21:34:27 -0500
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Is there anyone on the NG who uses screen hive bottoms in an area with where
Fire Ants are located?
If so, do the ants bother your bees?

William
North GA Mtns.




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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Screen bottoms and Fire Ants
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In article <38bc818e_2@news3.paonline.com>, "William Cantrell"
 writes:

>
>Is there anyone on the NG who uses screen hive bottoms in an area with where
>Fire Ants are located?
>If so, do the ants bother your bees?
>

I have quit feeding any type of syrup, on the front, on top, or in hive bodies.
Fire ants are a real pain (PUN intended).  And, I have had them kill out hives
in late summer, actually cleaning out the honey, and eating brood. Real
friends.

 I am learning what kind of fire ant poision I can put out and kill the ants
with little harm to the bees, but I haven't found the right product yet.  


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From: Chad Howell 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: dead hives
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 21:08:54 -0600
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Today I checked on my hives and found three dead ones. What is puzzling
to me is that it looks like starvation. The middle frames of two bodies
were eaten up the middle about 20 cells wide and the rest of the frame
wasn't touched along with the other 5 frames. I found bees head first in
cells. I guess my question is, can I install packages into those hives
and let them feed off the honey left in them. The honey isn't fit for
consumption due to medications given in the fall. Thanks for any
insight. Today was a very sad day for me. I mourn the loss of three fine
colonies.
Chad Howell



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From: "Rahmatulin S. N." 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Пчелопакеты
Date: 1 Mar 2000 06:48:09 GMT
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Кто знает? Сколько будут стоить
4-х рамочные пчелопакеты
карпатской породы.

С уважением Андрей.