Article 25807 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: honeybs@radix.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee Candy Recipe?
Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 11:14:54 GMT
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On Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:27:52 -0500, "nomad" <damon@lxucom.net> wrote:

>    Can anyone tell me a good formula for making "bee candy" used for
>feeding bees and sealing queen cages?
>
>    Also I noticed that a recipe for feeding bees called for powered sugar
>WITHOUT cornstarch; do they make such a thing, where could I find it, and is
>it really important enough for me to worry about. I think the recipe (maybe
>it was for dry pollen sub) was in TH&THB.
>
>    I'm also curious where I could find a small supply of HFCS; i just have
>6 hives and a don't need a tanker load. Is the stuff in the supermarket
>useable?
>
>Many thanks
>
>--
>to <reply>:
>
>My email mirrors my name:
>damon :: nomad
>
>
>
It's powdered sugar and numoline.

beekeep



Article 25808 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Michael Purcell <michael.purcell@mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: kudzu
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"Angela & Keith Copi" <copia@erols.com> wrote:

>Does anyone happen to know if honey bees work kudzu flowers?
>
>Keith
>
I've not seen this myself, but another beekeeper told me
some years ago that he actually had patches of kudzu honey
in the honey supers. He said the smell and flavor is
something like grape. Kudzu does not produce enough nectar
for the bees to collect much, and if it didn't bloom during
the August dearth, this beekeeper's story would be harder to
believe.

Michael


Article 25809 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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>Does anyone happen to know if honey bees work kudzu flowers?

   I've never seen a honeybee on them. I think the flower is too deep. 
Bumblebees and some solitary bees work them freely.


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Home Page:  http://pollinator.com

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


Article 25810 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Simon McKay-Mills <simon@cogentcom.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping,alt.hobbies.beekeeping
Subject: wanted - plans for a National Hive
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 10:00:15 +0100
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Hi,

I have searched high and low for the plans for a National hive with no
success.

Does anyone know where I might find one, or if they have an electronic
version that they could send to me - I would be much obliged.

easiest contact address is

smckaymills at hotmail dot com

thanks in advance

simon



Article 25811 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: rsbrenchley@aol.com (RSBrenchley)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Beginners question: on Brood & half method
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<The British
<National and the older wbc hive are OK <for a non-prolific bee, such as
<many colonies are when they are close <to native in character. So, a more
<prolific bee is given a larger hive, by <adding a super (5 1/2 inches
<instead of 8 1/2 inches) rather than <another brood chamber. It gives too
<many problems in my view and a two <chamber hive is probably better with
<2 equal size hive bodies and division <boards. If all colonies are more
<prolific, then a larger hive is called for. 

If using you're a double brood chamber, are standards or deeps better? I have
an American friend who swears by the method, but I'm not sure how to translate
from Langstroths into British Nationals.

Regards

Robert Brenchley

RSBrenchley@aol.com


Article 25812 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Mike Smith" <someone@thedoor.clara.co.uk>
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Subject: For Sale Extractor
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Hello Everybody
                           Due to upgrade I have a 3/6 Tangential Manual
Stainless Steel  Extractor for sale,£175 ono.

                                                   Thanks
                                                        Mike Smith




Article 25813 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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 Sorry I should have put in that I live in Surrey U.K.
                                                               Mike
"Mike Smith" <someone@thedoor.clara.co.uk> wrote in message
news:PKp75.796$7l6.96048@nnrp3.clara.net...
> Hello Everybody
>                            Due to upgrade I have a 3/6 Tangential Manual
> Stainless Steel  Extractor for sale,£175 ono.
>
>                                                    Thanks
>                                                         Mike Smith
>
>




Article 25814 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: npatt@snet.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Are my hives diseased??
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Background...
I made a split from an established hive

thought I got queen cells but didn't

ordered a Carniolan Queen from California documented to be disease free.


after the queen was out of the cage I checked 6 days later and there was eggs


checked on hive 15 days later larve and capped brood.


went in today 30 days later and found darker bees mixed with original bees.


very little brood


some larve was white but shrivelled.... wet not dry.


thought I found the queen, stared hard and believe I was looking at her.


What is this?  What do I do?  Will this effect the 2 other hives I have near by and do I need to move this hive?
Could I have mistaken a bee for a queen and is the queen dead?  (is this consistant with the brood problem?)


Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.


Norman Patterson

npatt@snet.net



Article 25815 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "George Styer" <gstyLer@worldnet.att.net>
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It doesn't sound like your experience is such that you can diagnose disease,
and I am not convinced by your description that there is anything unusual.

Carniolans are a darker bee. The "very little brood" could be because the
colony was queenless for a period of time. If you had ordered the queen
marked, you would know:

1. it is a queen
2. it is alive
3. it is the queen you introduced

--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To respond via email, get the "L" out of there


<npatt@snet.net> wrote in message
news:VEr75.448$0D.340093@typhoon.snet.net...
> Background...
> I made a split from an established hive
>
> thought I got queen cells but didn't
>
> ordered a Carniolan Queen from California documented to be disease free.
>
>
> after the queen was out of the cage I checked 6 days later and there was
eggs
>
>
> checked on hive 15 days later larve and capped brood.
>
>
> went in today 30 days later and found darker bees mixed with original
bees.
>
>
> very little brood
>
>
> some larve was white but shrivelled.... wet not dry.
>
>
> thought I found the queen, stared hard and believe I was looking at her.
>
>
> What is this?  What do I do?  Will this effect the 2 other hives I have
near by and do I need to move this hive?
> Could I have mistaken a bee for a queen and is the queen dead?  (is this
consistant with the brood problem?)
>
>
> Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
> Norman Patterson
>
> npatt@snet.net
>




Article 25816 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Rodney Isom" <rodneyi@nooospam.hiwaay.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Is it honey yet?
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 20:22:08 -0500
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Hi folks,

It's the beginning beekeeper again.  I have extracted my first super of
honey & it's a good bit thinner than some other honey I've gotten from other
places, but I would estimate 85% of the comb was capped and none would shake
out of the open cells when I tried.  (I believe the honey flow ended before
all the cells were filled and capped.)  Did I extract too early or is some
honey just thinner than others?  Does capped always mean ripe?

Also, I'm in north Alabama & the honey is light colored with a pretty mild
taste.  Any idea of what kind of flower(s) it came from?

Thanks for the advice,
Rodney

******************
Rodney Isom
Arab, AL
rodneyi@noooospam.hiwaay.net
(remove the obvious part to reply)









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 Simon
Try his link cost is £2.10p +  p+p
http://www.angus.co.uk/bibba/bibba2.html

                                                  Mike Smith

"Simon McKay-Mills" <simon@cogentcom.co.uk> wrote in message
news:395C619F.8C70CC0B@cogentcom.co.uk...
> Hi,
>
> I have searched high and low for the plans for a National hive with no
> success.
>
> Does anyone know where I might find one, or if they have an electronic
> version that they could send to me - I would be much obliged.
>
> easiest contact address is
>
> smckaymills at hotmail dot com
>
> thanks in advance
>
> simon
>




Article 25818 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Peter Edwards" <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: my bees are raising queens cells like billyho
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 23:26:59 +0100
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Tom

It is clear from your posting that you need help.  I suggest that you join
your local association and/or read some basic beekeeping books - your could
do worse than 'A Guide to Bees and Honey' by Ted Hooper or 'Practical
Beekeeping' by Clive de Bruyn.

Your bees were building queen cells because they wanted to swarm - which
they eventually did despite your efforts.  Now the parent colony (the one
that produced the swarm, need to raise a new queen - and it sounds as though
you are frustrating their efforts; no wonder they are bad tempered!

You should have created an artificial swarm when they first started
producing queen cells.

Let me know where you are located if you need help in contacting your local
association.
"Tom" <spec.leisNOspSPAM@btinternet.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:08b3ac62.29487593@usw-ex0109-068.remarq.com...
> I have a slightly errant colony of bees, they are not
> seriously bad tempered but you can't stay near them for too
> long. they are producing queen cells ten or twelve per week.
>
> I have introduced an extra super into the brood chamber but
> all they did was fill this with honey!! this colony swarmed
> and I collected them for a fresh hive but the original
> colony are still building queen cells. I don't like to keep
> on with the hatchet approach but am a little stuck for
> ideas any good suggestions will be appreciated
>
>
> * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find
related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is
Beautiful




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In article <TMp75.798$7l6.95997@nnrp3.clara.net>,
  "Mike Smith" <someone@thedoor.clara.co.uk> wrote:
>  Sorry I should have put in that I live in Surrey U.K.
>                                                                Mike
> "Mike Smith" <someone@thedoor.clara.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:PKp75.796$7l6.96048@nnrp3.clara.net...
> > Hello Everybody
> >                            Due to upgrade I have a 3/6 Tangential
Manual
> > Stainless Steel  Extractor for sale,£175 ono.
> >
> >                                                    Thanks
> >                                                         Mike Smith
> >How much in U.S. funds with shipping to N.W. Pennsylvania?
> >
>
>


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 25820 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
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Subject: Re: kudzu
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>Does anyone happen to know if honey bees work kudzu flowers?
>

they'll work it if'n its bloomimg when thar haint nuthin else
an make a good bit a honey outa it too, ifn ya got plenty a kud around.
i sure would na suggest plantin no more fer em though !!!


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC



Article 25821 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
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Subject: Re: A small smarm problem
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>
>I believe ammonia can be used to get rid of bee-go smell. Or is it vinegar?
>
>
>M

skunk mask's the smell pretty well !!!!!!
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC



Article 25822 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "nomad" <damon@lxucom.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee Candy Recipe?
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<honeybs@radix.net> wrote in message
news:395dd28d.41450359@news1.radix.net...
> On Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:27:52 -0500, "nomad" <damon@lxucom.net> wrote:
>
> >    Can anyone tell me a good formula for making "bee candy" used for
> >feeding bees and sealing queen cages?
> >
> >
> >
> It's powdered sugar and numoline.
>
> beekeep


    Ok...Whats numoline? And can you make your own bee candy with stuff from
the supermarket....?




Article 25823 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: Bee Candy Recipe?
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On Mon, 3 Jul 2000 00:14:20 -0500, "nomad" <damon@lxucom.net> wrote:

>
><honeybs@radix.net> wrote in message
>news:395dd28d.41450359@news1.radix.net...
>> On Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:27:52 -0500, "nomad" <damon@lxucom.net> wrote:
>>
>> >    Can anyone tell me a good formula for making "bee candy" used for
>> >feeding bees and sealing queen cages?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> It's powdered sugar and numoline.
>>
>> beekeep
>
>
>    Ok...Whats numoline? And can you make your own bee candy with stuff from
>the supermarket....?
>

Numoline is inverted sugar syrup used by bakeries.  W. T. Kelley also
sells it.

beekeep
>



Article 25824 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Paul Waites <prw3@york.ac.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Beginners question: on Brood & half method
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Hi all,

Thanks for the advice so far... I've had more correspondance over this
brood and a half issue than anything else and am rapidly coming to the
conclusion that its a double brood box for me. I was originally taught to
use brood and a half so that is what I've done so far.

I'm working away from home (& logging-on remotely) this week so I Hope
that the hives will be o.k. I removed 19 queen cells from the hive that
won't expand in the lower brood chamber. (I have now put the brood chamber
on top of the super). And removed a wopping 33 queen cells from the more
powerful hive. I guess the only answer is to put a brood box of foundation
on when I return.

I must confess that I would worry that putting another brood chamber on
may mean that I don't get any honey this year, and with only two hives.

Peter Edwards suggests that I make an artificial swarm: Sounds a good
idea, I'll have to read this up when I get home. The only scary bit is
that I've not done this before, and will it mean that again I'll loose all
chance of a honey crop.

And finally thanks once again for all the advice: James Kilty describes
me as a minimalist beekeeper... This is probably true, only my second full
year and still learning, Also beekeeping in the back garden I have to be
careful not to go mad on the expansions. (Any pointers for directions to
find out more about urban beekeeping would be welcomed). In addition,
having a busy job certainly gets in the way! (Boo). Even so I must try and
find an out apiary for next year, as these problems aside I've really got
into beekeeping, I don't know what I'd do without the things flying around
on a summers day....

Cheers,

Paul.


___________________________________________________



Article 25825 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: redshift17@aol.com.UghSpam (Erica )
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Bees attraction to light at night??
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This might sound like a moronic or weird question but... are bees attratced to
light? Recently, a swarm of bees decided to take up residence in my front yard
and every night, starting around 9pm, they decided to "attack" my front porch
light.. they climb all over the bulb and, I suppose they are burned to death,
because every day I find about 40 of them dead on my porch.

I have two proch lights.. and I've never seen them touch the one that doesn't
face their hive. Any reasons why?

Erica
redshift17@aol.com 
=============== remove .UghSpam to reply please. ;) =====
"I can only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow doesn't
look good either." 
 ======== http://www.geocities.com/kittygemini ===========




Article 25826 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: Bees attraction to light at night??
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Hi
    Absolutely no empirical research to support this but in my experience
bees are disturbed by and attracted to most of the light spectrum bar red.
    I use a red filtered torch when shifting hives or swarm boxes at night
and the bees don't take any notice of me, use a normal white light and watch
out
Barry
Erica <redshift17@aol.com.UghSpam> wrote in message
news:20000703042555.19265.00000602@ng-da1.aol.com...
> This might sound like a moronic or weird question but... are bees
attratced to
> light? Recently, a swarm of bees decided to take up residence in my front
yard
> and every night, starting around 9pm, they decided to "attack" my front
porch
> light.. they climb all over the bulb and, I suppose they are burned to
death,
> because every day I find about 40 of them dead on my porch.
>
> I have two proch lights.. and I've never seen them touch the one that
doesn't
> face their hive. Any reasons why?
>
> Erica
> redshift17@aol.com
> =============== remove .UghSpam to reply please. ;) =====
> "I can only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow
doesn't
> look good either."
>  ======== http://www.geocities.com/kittygemini ===========
>
>




Article 25827 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Larry W" <larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: leaving supers on all year
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 14:53:38 -0500
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Looking for pros and con for leaving a supers on a hive all year. I just
extracted my last super this year I think and thanks to the help here I
didn't break any wax this time. I have 4 hives and 3 of them have supers on
them with various amounts of honey from empty frames to full frames not all
capped. There has been no winter to speak of here in Alabama for the last
two years and I have left the supers on the hives. I plan on adding apstan
in early September.

Thanks

Larry




Article 25828 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Chilled Brood?
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2 days ago I pulled a beautiful frame of brood from a great hive for use in
an observation hive.  This is my first experience with an observation hive
and my first experience with any problems with my bees.  I took the frame
and all the bees on it, and placed it in the observation hive.  I had an old
queen from a hive I just requeened that I was going to use.  Unfortunately,
she had been removed from her hive a day and a half before and died in her
cage shortly after placing her in the observation hive.  The frame of brood
I used had some eggs in it so I decided to see if they would raise a new
queen as I thought this would be wonderful to watch.  Now (2 days later),
the larva are dying and turning black.  I'm wondering if this is a symptom
of chilled brood?  I brought the hive inside to an air conditioned house
from 90+ degree weather outside.  Is it possible that I didn't get enough
workers in the hive to properly take care of the brood?  Is it safe to
return this frame to the original hive with brood dying?  Does anybody have
any good instructions on how to properly start a flourishing observation
hive?
Any and help would be appreciated...




Article 25829 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: CAIR <cair1@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: What's happening in my hive?
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Hello

I went to my hive and found many bees, but few capped brood cells. In the past (I installed the
package of bees in April), there was a lot of capped brood.

Today, there were also three empty queen supercedure (sp?) cells on the side of one frame.

The bees see hard at work, but I am disturbed that that most of the cells that previously held brood
are empty.

I also noticed what I considered to be many drones. I saw at least a half dozen at the entrance to the
hive. Is this normal?

Also, I have a comb honey super on the hive, but the bees do not seem to want to go through the
queen excluder to start drawing comb.

And finally, why do the bees swarm over the side of the hive when I am checking the frames? 
What is happening?

Do I need to get another queen. (I have yet to see a queen, but that is because of my inexperience.)
What kind of queen should I get?

Please send a copy of posted advice directly to cair1@ix.netcom.com.

Ibrahim in Virginia


Article 25830 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bees attraction to light at night??
Date: 4 Jul 2000 12:25:53 -0400
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In article <gw%75.75$pq3.5349543@news.interact.net.au>,
Barry Metz <junee.apiaries@interact.net.au> wrote:
>Hi
>    Absolutely no empirical research to support this but in my experience
>bees are disturbed by and attracted to most of the light spectrum bar red.

Check out _Honey Bee Biology_.
citation at http://metalab.unc.edu/bees  click on FAQs

Or do a lit-search in agricola or biological abstracts for the keywords
light and bees/hymenoptera

Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein
adamf@radix.net
http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf


Article 25831 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Larry W" <larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <3960edb4_1@news.vic.com> <sm3n0ftgop330@corp.supernews.com>
Subject: Re: leaving supers on all year
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OK assuming I remove the supers, what do I do with the frames that have
partial honey in them. I have many that have 50% and more capped honey.
Should I extract them?

Larry

"Chris Sauer" <sauer@mwci.net> wrote in message
news:sm3n0ftgop330@corp.supernews.com...
> Not a good idea for several reasons.  First, the queen will end up laying
up
> in the supers and when you want to use them next year they'll be filled
with
> brood.  Even if you get them off after the brood hatches, they'll be very
> attractive homes for wax moths in the future.  Moths prefer the brood
> casings and you'll avoid alot of wax moth damage by keeping your supers
free
> of them.
>
> Last, when you treat with chemicals this year, you'll contaminate your
> supers.
>
> The best bet is to stack the supers and treat them for wax moths; supers
> with drawn comb are your most important resource as a honey producer!
>
> chris
> 85 hives in NE Iowa
> www.greathoney.com
> "Larry W" <larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net> wrote in message
> news:3960edb4_1@news.vic.com...
> > Looking for pros and con for leaving a supers on a hive all year. I just
> > extracted my last super this year I think and thanks to the help here I
> > didn't break any wax this time. I have 4 hives and 3 of them have supers
> on
> > them with various amounts of honey from empty frames to full frames not
> all
> > capped. There has been no winter to speak of here in Alabama for the
last
> > two years and I have left the supers on the hives. I plan on adding
apstan
> > in early September.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Larry
> >
> >
>
>




Article 25832 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Peter Amschel <amschelp@pe.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: leaving supers on all year
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I vote that you don't.



In article <39621bfb_2@news.vic.com>, larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net says...
> OK assuming I remove the supers, what do I do with the frames that have
> partial honey in them. I have many that have 50% and more capped honey.
> Should I extract them?
> 
> Larry
> 
> "Chris Sauer" <sauer@mwci.net> wrote in message
> news:sm3n0ftgop330@corp.supernews.com...
> > Not a good idea for several reasons.  First, the queen will end up laying
> up
> > in the supers and when you want to use them next year they'll be filled
> with
> > brood.  Even if you get them off after the brood hatches, they'll be very
> > attractive homes for wax moths in the future.  Moths prefer the brood
> > casings and you'll avoid alot of wax moth damage by keeping your supers
> free
> > of them.
> >
> > Last, when you treat with chemicals this year, you'll contaminate your
> > supers.
> >
> > The best bet is to stack the supers and treat them for wax moths; supers
> > with drawn comb are your most important resource as a honey producer!
> >
> > chris
> > 85 hives in NE Iowa
> > www.greathoney.com
> > "Larry W" <larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net> wrote in message
> > news:3960edb4_1@news.vic.com...
> > > Looking for pros and con for leaving a supers on a hive all year. I just
> > > extracted my last super this year I think and thanks to the help here I
> > > didn't break any wax this time. I have 4 hives and 3 of them have supers
> > on
> > > them with various amounts of honey from empty frames to full frames not
> > all
> > > capped. There has been no winter to speak of here in Alabama for the
> last
> > > two years and I have left the supers on the hives. I plan on adding
> apstan
> > > in early September.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Larry
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> 
> 


Article 25833 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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I guess you could extract half of them and then feed it back to them in a
feeder so they would finish the rest of the frames.
Darrell

Larry W <larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net> wrote in message
news:39621bfb_2@news.vic.com...
> OK assuming I remove the supers, what do I do with the frames that have
> partial honey in them. I have many that have 50% and more capped honey.
> Should I extract them?
>
> Larry
>
> "Chris Sauer" <sauer@mwci.net> wrote in message
> news:sm3n0ftgop330@corp.supernews.com...
> > Not a good idea for several reasons.  First, the queen will end up
laying
> up
> > in the supers and when you want to use them next year they'll be filled
> with
> > brood.  Even if you get them off after the brood hatches, they'll be
very
> > attractive homes for wax moths in the future.  Moths prefer the brood
> > casings and you'll avoid alot of wax moth damage by keeping your supers
> free
> > of them.
> >
> > Last, when you treat with chemicals this year, you'll contaminate your
> > supers.
> >
> > The best bet is to stack the supers and treat them for wax moths; supers
> > with drawn comb are your most important resource as a honey producer!
> >
> > chris
> > 85 hives in NE Iowa
> > www.greathoney.com
> > "Larry W" <larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net> wrote in message
> > news:3960edb4_1@news.vic.com...
> > > Looking for pros and con for leaving a supers on a hive all year. I
just
> > > extracted my last super this year I think and thanks to the help here
I
> > > didn't break any wax this time. I have 4 hives and 3 of them have
supers
> > on
> > > them with various amounts of honey from empty frames to full frames
not
> > all
> > > capped. There has been no winter to speak of here in Alabama for the
> last
> > > two years and I have left the supers on the hives. I plan on adding
> apstan
> > > in early September.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Larry
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>




Article 25834 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Honey filter
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What do you use to filter honey and how important is it to filter honey?
Darrell





Article 25835 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: AL <lithar@midwest.net>
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Subject: Re: Honey filter
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Darrell Gehlsen wrote:
> 
> What do you use to filter honey and how important is it to filter honey?
> Darrell

Depends on your customer.

Are they the "all natural food" types, or super market types. All
natural advocates will prefer unfiltered honey, super market types will
want it crystal clear. If you are submitting it for county fair judging,
go with crystal clear and use quality glass, not plastic, containers. 

To remove unsightly large objects, filter with a coarse screen. To
produce crystal clear honey, filter *several* times with the leg/foot
portion of panty hose.  (Yeah Skip, I know...)





AL


Article 25836 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "hans.wartena" <hans.wartena@ping.be>
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Subject: Bearing of extractor.
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Do you lubricate the lower bearing of an extractor, and if yes with what?





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The best filter, and probably the cheapest, I have ever seen work well,
believe it or not, is a "sausage" made of 7 layers of women's nylon
stockings.  The honey will need to be heated to 125 degrees (do not go
higher and risk scorching!) and run through the nylons.  Then let it sit
until the cloudiness (small air bubbles) has gone and bottle it up.  You
could really get by with very little filtering.  The biggest reason is for
presentation when selling it.  Most people expect clear honey.


"Darrell Gehlsen" <darrell@machinemaster.com> wrote in message
news:Hlq85.29575$NP5.857961@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
> What do you use to filter honey and how important is it to filter honey?
> Darrell
>
>
>




Article 25838 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Disclaimer: this is my second year keeping bees. There are certainly
more knowledgeable people on this list.

CAIR wrote:
> 
> Hello
> 
> I went to my hive and found many bees, but few capped brood cells. In the past (I installed the
> package of bees in April), there was a lot of capped brood.
> 
> Today, there were also three empty queen supercedure (sp?) cells on the side of one frame.

Ah-ha! It seems that your colony has superceded the queen. A little odd
for a new package, but I've heard that it happens.

> The bees see hard at work, but I am disturbed that that most of the cells that previously held brood
> are empty.

There is a period of time between when they kill the old queen and the
new one starts laying - that leaves time for brood to hatch out but
there's nothing to replace it.

It'll take a couple weeks for your new queen to be mated and start
laying. You should check back in 2 or 3 weeks and be sure that there is
a laying queen.

> I also noticed what I considered to be many drones. I saw at least a half dozen at the entrance to the
> hive. Is this normal?

Yes - if you need your new queen to mate, there needs to be plenty of
drones.
Just watch out that you start getting worker brood and don't have all
drone brood.

> Also, I have a comb honey super on the hive, but the bees do not seem to want to go through the
> queen excluder to start drawing comb.

A new package that has lost its queen doesn't have enough bees to do
much with a super. But even if they did, they may not go through the
excluder. Try rotating it 90 degrees (so the ends of the box is open to
the ones below) to allow more bees to go through.

> And finally, why do the bees swarm over the side of the hive when I am checking the frames?
> What is happening?

I don't know about that.

> Do I need to get another queen. (I have yet to see a queen, but that is because of my inexperience.)
> What kind of queen should I get?

I'd wait a couple of weeks and check for a good laying queen. If you
introduce a new queen when you have a virgin, the colony will kill your
new one (I know, by expensive experience).

-Steve

-- 
Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
ACE Kits, Support, Consulting             (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html


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Larry W wrote:
> 
> OK assuming I remove the supers, what do I do with the frames that have
> partial honey in them. I have many that have 50% and more capped honey.
> Should I extract them?

Extract the ones that are mostly capped, leave the rest on for the bees
to finish (assuming you have more time this year for the bees to fill
them up).

If it's the end of the year, take the extracted ones, and the partially
filled ones that you didn't extract, and put them in a super _above_ the
inner cover and put the outer cover over it. The bees will clean out all
of the honey from all of them and bring it down to store it.

-Steve

-- 
Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
ACE Kits, Support, Consulting             (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html


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You can use a food grade (approved) grease.




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From: Why@me.com (SomeOne)
Subject: Re: Honey filter
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In article <Hlq85.29575$NP5.857961@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net>, "Darrell Gehlsen" <darrell@machinemaster.com> wrote:
>What do you use to filter honey and how important is it to filter honey?
>Darrell
>
 I'm sure many others will check in but...
 
 I strain my honey through a nylon mesh. Nylon paint strainers work rather 
well. Then it is transferred to a settleing tank. There it sits for at least 
three days. We then bottle off the bottom. 
 I suppose, if you don't mind skimming the stuff off the top, you could go 
straight from the extractor to the settling tank. Then after a couple of days 
skim the crud off the top. 
 
IMNSHO filtering is different from straining. Filtering entails a much finer 
mesh ( kinda like the coffee filter ) normally it is required to heat the 
honey and thenpump it through the filter. 
 
I started keeping bees to get away from my paying job. I was no big fan of 
honey because all I had ever had was what was on the store shelves..Karo Syrup 
tasted the same and was cheaper to boot.... Of course when handleing a frame 
of honey I stuck my finger in it and tasted the sticky substance. I remember 
thinking 'WHOA...this isn't what I've been buying! '. 
 Part of that flavor is straining rather than filtering. 
 
To more directly answer your question... You may use the nylon paint strainer 
or a Stainless steel strainer available from many bee equipment suppliers. I 
have used both and they are fine. I prefer the paint strainers because I can 
put it in a 5 gal bucket ( with a gate at the bottom ) and extract into it. 
Set it aside and use a similar set up to keep going. If I use a SS strainer 
when it clogs I have to slow the flow down while it fills the bucket.
 
Remember I still let it settle in a SS tank to allow any really small bits of 
wax and the air induced in the extracting process to rise to the top.
 
Sorry for the huge message. Good luck to you!


Article 25842 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: pollen in super?
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I started from a nuc a few months ago and everything to date seems fine,
however, on inspection yesterday as well as finding the frames in the
super being filled with honey and some just beginning to be capped
off.........I also saw to my surprise some pollen being stored on a
couple of frames. Is this normal in a super or are my bees trying to
tell me something like they need more brood room?
Thankyou for your help.
Michael


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Honey
From: mead-maker@NOHYPHENSbell-atlantic.net (Trask)
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>Since many of us in this NG could be classified as hobbyist 1 - 6 hives, 
>wondering what you do with your honey? I got about 6 gals off one hive 
>am fixing to get about 10 more gallons off my other 3.

    While I don't have my own hives I've been making friends with those 
that do <G>...   I'm an amateur brewer (mostly mead, beer and few 
wines)

 In addition to the other replies, check out the following link to find a local 
brewing club - http://brewery.org/brewery/infobase/club/clublist.html 

  You could make some of your own mead (honey based wine - check 
out gotmead.com) or offer it for sale to those that brew.   We're always 
looking for good sources of honey and prefer to support those around us 
rather than some large conglomerate!

Wassail,
Chris
---
Head brewer/bottle-washer at Hummingbird Cellars (1 sip will leave 'ya 
humming)
What's Brewing? Cherry mead, Strawberry mead, Bavarian Wheat Beer, 
Braggot
What's Aging?   Apricot, Blackberry, Blueberry, Citrus-Ginger, Cyser, 
Methaglin, Peach, Plum, Pyment, Raspberry, Traditional, Vanilla, Framboise, 
Oatmeal Cream Stout



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From: "Chris Sauer" <sauer@mwci.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: leaving supers on all year
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Not a good idea for several reasons.  First, the queen will end up laying up
in the supers and when you want to use them next year they'll be filled with
brood.  Even if you get them off after the brood hatches, they'll be very
attractive homes for wax moths in the future.  Moths prefer the brood
casings and you'll avoid alot of wax moth damage by keeping your supers free
of them.

Last, when you treat with chemicals this year, you'll contaminate your
supers.

The best bet is to stack the supers and treat them for wax moths; supers
with drawn comb are your most important resource as a honey producer!

chris
85 hives in NE Iowa
www.greathoney.com
"Larry W" <larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net> wrote in message
news:3960edb4_1@news.vic.com...
> Looking for pros and con for leaving a supers on a hive all year. I just
> extracted my last super this year I think and thanks to the help here I
> didn't break any wax this time. I have 4 hives and 3 of them have supers
on
> them with various amounts of honey from empty frames to full frames not
all
> capped. There has been no winter to speak of here in Alabama for the last
> two years and I have left the supers on the hives. I plan on adding apstan
> in early September.
>
> Thanks
>
> Larry
>
>




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I'm a complete beginner. I have a standard National broodbox with 11 frames
of new foundation on it's stand with the roof on waiting for a swarm. Is it
ok like that or will the foundation get too hot, invaded by unwanted
organisms or anything else? What is my chance of getting a swarm and is it
too late to think of starting this year? If I do get a swarm will they
survive the winter? South England.






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From: "hans.wartena" <hans.wartena@ping.be>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: pollen in super?
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 23:37:10 +0200
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Yes some pollen in the supper is normal.
Have a good harvest (of honey)
mbarton15653@my-deja.com heeft geschreven in bericht
<8js9a1$2ah$1@nnrp1.deja.com>...
>I started from a nuc a few months ago and everything to date seems fine,
>however, on inspection yesterday as well as finding the frames in the
>super being filled with honey and some just beginning to be capped
>off.........I also saw to my surprise some pollen being stored on a
>couple of frames. Is this normal in a super or are my bees trying to
>tell me something like they need more brood room?
>Thankyou for your help.
>Michael
>
>
>Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
>Before you buy.




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From: James Kilty <honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: real beeswax comb
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 23:22:01 +0100
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In article <20000629042336.01817.00000631@ng-fs1.aol.com>, LKLarson1
<lklarson1@aol.com> writes
>By the way, any educational suggestions for presentations to classrooms--ideas,
>techniques, "catchy facts" you've used in your presentations to groups?
The British Beekeepers Association has a publication called "Bees in the
Curriculum" designed for under 11's. It is a hard ring file binder with
source material for activities, notes, pictures, and so on. It has a
list of good resources from booklets to videos. Try
http//:www.bbka.demon.co.uk. If you have problems come back to me and
I'll trace a supply person.
-- 
James Kilty


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From: James Kilty <honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Beginners question: on Brood & half method
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 23:14:17 +0100
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References: <395389A3.BAC0CB27@york.ac.uk>
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In article <Pine.SOL.3.95L.1000703190758.7235D-
100000@mailer.york.ac.uk>, Paul Waites <prw3@york.ac.uk> writes
>Peter Edwards suggests that I make an artificial swarm: Sounds a good
>idea, I'll have to read this up when I get home. The only scary bit is
>that I've not done this before, and will it mean that again I'll loose all
>chance of a honey crop.
It's far better than culling cells. You have a swarmy strain of bee. I'd
aim to requeen next year somehow. They will get you more honey than if
they swarm. One way to reduce the chances is to split the frames with
queen cells into a top box (leaving one frame with the queen below - you
can shake all the bees down into the original box and put the frames in
one by one - let young bees go up to the brood and cut the top box off a
few hours later - turn the whole thing round letting the flying bees go
to the top box entrance now at the front of the hive. The old queen is
below with a rear entrance. Cut queen cells down to one unsealed. Turn
them back a week later and hopefully the swarming tendency is gone. Cut
out all emergency cells and any you missed first time. The old queen
will have marked time somewhat with few bees and start up again. You can
use a Snelgrove board to let some of the bees back to the old queen or
give some brood and bees back but you can easily trigger the swarming
off again. Hopefully, they'll stay together in July and you'll have a
new laying queen in August to replace the old one. She *may* be less
swarmy.
>And finally thanks once again for all the advice: James Kilty describes
>me as a minimalist beekeeper... 
No - it was your advisor I thought might be from that school or his/her
advisor and so on back to the one who started it all.

I hope you can get something to work.
-- 
James Kilty


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From: James Kilty <honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: absolute beginner
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 23:37:29 +0100
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In article <rnm85.91$53.6919@news-1.opaltelecom.net>, Rookie
<vcivil@yahoo.com> writes
>I'm a complete beginner. I have a standard National broodbox with 11 frames
>of new foundation on it's stand with the roof on waiting for a swarm.
Swarms would be possible if you had one old used drawn frame.
> Is it
>ok like that or will the foundation get too hot, invaded by unwanted
>organisms or anything else? What is my chance of getting a swarm and is it
>too late to think of starting this year?
The chances are now low. Early May is the best time to put a bait hive
out.
> If I do get a swarm will they
>survive the winter? South England.
All swarms need feeding. They evolved in a non-agricultural environment
and not all British summers and autumns provide enough forage to see a
swarm to the stage they have enough comb and stores to survive a winter
and poor spring.
It is much better to purchase a nucleus from a local beekeeper or your
local association which I advise you to join.
-- 
James Kilty


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From: James Kilty <honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: leaving supers on all year
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 23:38:43 +0100
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In article <3960edb4_1@news.vic.com>, Larry W
<larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net> writes
>Looking for pros and con for leaving a supers on a hive all year.
Lots of locals here in West Cornwall leave supers on all through the
winter. They say it cuts down wax moth problems as it's either too cool
for them or the bees deal with them. They repair when they can and they
are there if they need to move honey up to give the queen space to lay.
They are there when needed. But it might be easier to remove the ones
you want to renew in the autumn. Of course you must keep the queen
excluder on. Even then, you can sometimes get the queen go up and then
you do have problems getting her back -  especially if you use drone
foundation in the supers!!!!!
-- 
James Kilty


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From: bebs63@my-deja.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Dead bees! (wild)
Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 22:48:33 GMT
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Yesterday (nice and sunny) I came across a mass
of bees (about 2 feet square) on the ground
beneath a tree near my house. They looked pretty
healthy (to my very untrained eye). Today, very
wet and a bit cooler, the whole mass is either
dead or just a few individuals still moving. This
is in the middle of farmland, but we use no
pesticides. Any ideas what might have happened?


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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Subject: dead wild bees
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Yesterday I found a swarm of wild honey bees on the track at my farm.
They were crawling around, and some were flying, (but not far). It
rained today and this evening when I checked they were all dead (or
dying). Does anyone know what might have happened to them all?


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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From: melissabee23@my-deja.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: bee art at burningman
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worker bees unite! hey, here is a happening to
pass on to all bee loving folks out there. this
year for the burningman event i am building an
art installation entitled temple of the
bee/shrine to the forgotten pollinators.  i am
building a huge bee out of natural materials. as
an end of the event, the art installation will be
burned. i am looking for fellow bee enthusiasts
to help with the constuction and burning
performance. for the performance, i am looking
for people in their beekeeping gear or dressed as
bees. contact melissa at melissawh23@yahoo.com if
you want to join me. more info about the
burningman event can be found at
www.burningman.com


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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From: rec01rec@my-deja.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Light, Heat and Location
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Hi Mike in VT,

To winter in New England (Portsmouth, NH) how many brood chambers
should I have for winter (I have been reading both 2 and 3 and not sure
which)?

Thanks

Ron

In article <8ip7un$8pt$1@nnrp1.deja.com>,
  kamtout@together.net wrote:
> Question,  When you place Tarpaper in order to help keep hive warm
> during cold
> > weather and what would happen if the bee fly out from the hive and
end
> up hit a
> > cold snap in the air?
> >                                  Tim
> >
> Tim,
> Normally bees don't fly about looking for honey until the temp is 51
or
> higher. But since they've been cooped up they will make short little
> runs for a 100 feet or so in quite cold weather since they need to
> defecate somewhere. If they hit a cold snap they fly back. Every
winter
> during one of these cleansing flights its not unheard of to see bees
> dead all over but the numbers are usually only a few hundred. And this
> is with quite a few hives about. They'll definitely die or get deathly
> ill if it's so cold they can't leave the hive for 2 months, but that
> would be due to nosema. The tarpaper doesn't keep the hive warm. It
does
> two things. #1 It provides a protection against wind. #2 it warms the
> hive to temperatures that allow the bees in the dead of a winter to
> slightly break cluster enough to let them move to another honey frame.
> Is it absolutely necessary? NO. This gets into a philosophical
approach
> for some. I have freinds that never wrap theirs and others with
HUNDREDS
> of hives and they feel the insurance of wrapping pays. It's time
> consuming more than expensive. One roll ($10.00) does about 20 hives.
> But in areas further north in Canada, wintering bees is a bit more
> serious. They experience colder temps (i.e. -30 to 40- below zero) on
a
> regular basis and some move their hive to wintering chambers where the
> wind and cold are not as extreme. I've even seen arguments for killing
> bees each year and taking the winter stores as honey in these cold
> areas as it's economically better. go figure.
> Others up here move their bees to Carolinas where they can winter them
> over on only one deep super and take the other as extracted honey
> because the winters are easier there.
> Back to your original question, bees die when they fly in winter but
> it's not like the whole hive gets flying at once and instantly turns
to
> crystal and drops in the field eh? Only a small bunch die in those
> flights.
>
> --
> Mike in VT
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.
>


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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I have 3 hives, all started from 4 frame nucs. With the crappy weather
we have had lately, I didn't know what to expect when I inspected them
today. Well one hive was going great guns, even making comb and storing
honey above the inner cover. Another was doing well, having drawn comb
out on all the frames. The 3rd was not doing as well but appeared to be
healthy. Anyway...My question is to do with invasive insects getting
into the hives. On #2 hive, I found webbing and a coccoon above the
inner cover. On #3 hive there were several Earwigs on top of the inner
cover. Should I have any concerns regarding these other bugs? Thanks,
Glen Archer, first year keeper in Ontario, Canada.


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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
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Subject: Re: Critters in my hives!
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> On #2 hive, I found webbing and a coccoon above the
>inner cover. On #3 hive there were several Earwigs on top of the inner
>cover. Should I have any concerns regarding these other bugs?

Since your hive are weak right now, I would clean out the webbing and coccoon
right of way. On your new nuc. you need to put a stick at the enter door and
leave about 1" open that way the Guard bee can cover the  most area. Later when
hive is getting strong and have many Guard bee, You can remove the stick.
Somebody in here may explain better then me.


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>i am looking for fellow bee enthusiasts
>to help with the constuction and burning
>performance. for the performance, i am looking
>for people in their beekeeping gear or dressed as
>bees. contact melissa at melissawh23@yahoo.com if
>you want to join me

 Sorry Melissa, I'm too busy eating my Honey!


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Subject: Re: What's happening in my hive?
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>> And finally, why do the bees swarm over the side of the hive when I am
>checking the frames?
>> What is happening?
>

I saw that happen one time. I pull that frame with most bees on it and found
new Queen cell.  
If I were you, I did wait two or three week like Steve said.
                          Tim


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From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter)
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Subject: Re: Critters in my hives!
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I usually knock the spiders off the covers and dump the ants and earwigs off
too. Weak colonies get wax moths so watch for them.


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


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Would beeswax work?


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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I posted a message asking for advice on beekeeping presentations and got the
first piece of advice fine (it was terrific) and before I read the second
reply, I got interrupted by 4th of July fireworks.  I got signed off.

When I came back to this site--my original question was no longer there and the
second reply (which I hadn't read) was gone.  Is there any way retriving the
question and the replies?

 


Article 25862 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Larry W" <larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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try to do a find from your email reader, looking for the subject. If not
kill the NG and reload it.

Larry

"LKLarson1" <lklarson1@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000705004812.09535.00000442@ng-ck1.aol.com...
> I posted a message asking for advice on beekeeping presentations and got
the
> first piece of advice fine (it was terrific) and before I read the second
> reply, I got interrupted by 4th of July fireworks.  I got signed off.
>
> When I came back to this site--my original question was no longer there
and the
> second reply (which I hadn't read) was gone.  Is there any way retriving
the
> question and the replies?
>
>




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From: Mark Veltman <mveltman@lambton.on.ca>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Critters in my hives!
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 08:50:04 -0400
Organization: IT Dept, Lambton College
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Glen & Zoe wrote:

> I have 3 hives, all started from 4 frame nucs. With the crappy weather
> we have had lately, I didn't know what to expect when I inspected them
> today. Well one hive was going great guns, even making comb and storing
> honey above the inner cover. Another was doing well, having drawn comb
> out on all the frames. The 3rd was not doing as well but appeared to be
> healthy. Anyway...My question is to do with invasive insects getting
> into the hives. On #2 hive, I found webbing and a coccoon above the
> inner cover. On #3 hive there were several Earwigs on top of the inner
> cover. Should I have any concerns regarding these other bugs? Thanks,
> Glen Archer, first year keeper in Ontario, Canada.

I too find a few spiders and lots of earwigs each time I open up the hive.
Always between th top of the inner cover and the lid..  I usually try to
kill as many of them as I can, but I haven't been too worried about them
since they dont appear to be inside the hive.  Which part of Ontario are
you from?  My hives are located about 40km west of London, Ontario.






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You can look for it at www.deja.com/usenet - they keep archives of many
newsgroups.

-Steve

LKLarson1 wrote:
> 
> I posted a message asking for advice on beekeeping presentations and got the
> first piece of advice fine (it was terrific) and before I read the second
> reply, I got interrupted by 4th of July fireworks.  I got signed off.
> 
> When I came back to this site--my original question was no longer there and the
> second reply (which I hadn't read) was gone.  Is there any way retriving the
> question and the replies?
> 
> 

-- 
Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
ACE Kits, Support, Consulting             (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html


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Mark,

I am in Guelph.

It seems that the insects are not a real problem, I was just worried
that perhaps there was an underlying reason for them being present (too
humid, not enough ventilation etc.) I feel better hearing from everyone
here.
Thanks,
Glen.


Mark Veltman wrote:
> 
> Glen & Zoe wrote:
> 
> > I have 3 hives, all started from 4 frame nucs. With the crappy weather
> > we have had lately, I didn't know what to expect when I inspected them
> > today. Well one hive was going great guns, even making comb and storing
> > honey above the inner cover. Another was doing well, having drawn comb
> > out on all the frames. The 3rd was not doing as well but appeared to be
> > healthy. Anyway...My question is to do with invasive insects getting
> > into the hives. On #2 hive, I found webbing and a coccoon above the
> > inner cover. On #3 hive there were several Earwigs on top of the inner
> > cover. Should I have any concerns regarding these other bugs? Thanks,
> > Glen Archer, first year keeper in Ontario, Canada.
> 
> I too find a few spiders and lots of earwigs each time I open up the hive.
> Always between th top of the inner cover and the lid..  I usually try to
> kill as many of them as I can, but I haven't been too worried about them
> since they dont appear to be inside the hive.  Which part of Ontario are
> you from?  My hives are located about 40km west of London, Ontario.


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From: Gary Johns <gpjohns@okstate.edu>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bearing of extractor.
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 09:06:27 -0500
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I heard that you should use honey.



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From: "Billy Y. Smart II" <Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com>
Subject: Package Hive Swarmed - Now What?
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Group,

I have had a package hive, installed April 8, swarm on me last week. It
had built up to two full deeps and I put another deep on with some
undrawn duraguilt foundation that I had purchased used from an
individual and had been stored in a barn for about 5 years. I left the
thing on the hive for a month and the bees never drew it out - not a
single cell. I must have left it on for too long because 3 weeks ago I
started finding swarm cells. I cut out the cells and reversed bodies and
then made up some comb foundation and put it on two weeks ago. When I
inspected the hive over last weekend I found the hive with a lot fewer
bees and a lot of chewed comb foundation in that week old super. Lots of
capped and emerging brood but no eggs or larva. They had drawn the comb
foundation a little but I think the weather is too hot for thin comb
foundation - a lot of warping. My other two hives are drawing it out
like mad though as we are in the midst of what I think to be a alfalfa
flow.  I think the queen finally gave up on me and left.

My question is: Do I purchase another queen and kill the virgin queen or
do I let the hive be bees? I am worried that a virgin queen may take too
long to get mated and start laying eggs. I doubt I will get much honey
off this hive this year but I worry now if they will be able to build up
and store enough honey to get them through the winter. They do have two
deeps fully drawn and lots of stores but not enough for winter I don't
think.

I am located in S. Central Kansas.

--
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */





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From: "Daniel W." <Daniel.Vandewalle@ping.be>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Buckfast bees (which race)?
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 20:58:03 +0200
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Hi Gary,

The buckfast is a breeding between apis mellifera mellifera (male) and apis
ligustica (Italian bee)(female) (F1 level).  this first breeding took place
in 1917.  However, in 1930, a second breeding took place with a french apis
mellifera mellifera and males Buckfast F1 to produce F2 generation.  In
1952, new breeding between buckfast F2 and apis mellifera cecropia (Greek
bee) to reduce the aggressiveness( F3 generation).  In 1960 new breeding to
produce F4, between buckfast F3 and apis mellifera anatolia (Turkish bee).
Actually, buckfast bees are from this F4 breeding.

Try this link on brother Adam.  http://www.fundp.ac.be/~jvandyck/homage.html
Articles and bibliographies are well presented.

Best regards
Daniel
http://apibel.ibelgique.com (in french actually, english under construction)




Gary Johns <gpjohns@okstate.edu> a écrit dans le message :
3950D469.CD2EC696@okstate.edu...
> What race are Buckfast bees considered to be from originally? Apis
> Mellifera ???
>




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From: Jesse Hunter <jesse.hunter@bms.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bearing of extractor.
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 15:22:29 -0400
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Use a food grade grease. Its the same that they use for large blenders and
mixers. Should be able to buy it in a restaurant supply store.

"hans.wartena" wrote:

> Do you lubricate the lower bearing of an extractor, and if yes with what?



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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Goto deja.com  they have archieves of all newsgroup messages. You can search by
topic.  Good luck

LKLarson1 wrote:

> I posted a message asking for advice on beekeeping presentations and got the
> first piece of advice fine (it was terrific) and before I read the second
> reply, I got interrupted by 4th of July fireworks.  I got signed off.
>
> When I came back to this site--my original question was no longer there and the
> second reply (which I hadn't read) was gone.  Is there any way retriving the
> question and the replies?
>
>



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From: "Peter Edwards" <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: absolute beginner
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 21:39:43 +0100
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Too late for prime swarms but there are still cast about - I have picked up
three this week.

However, they will be small, will need constant feeding to build them up for
the winter and will probably not be from very good stock - colonies that
throw casts this late are generally from 'swarmy' bees.

There is an old saying which ends ' a swarm in July- let the b*****s fly'.

On the plus side, a cast now will have a young queen and may build into a
good colony for the spring.  You can always requeen it next year.

"Rookie" <vcivil@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:rnm85.91$53.6919@news-1.opaltelecom.net...
> I'm a complete beginner. I have a standard National broodbox with 11
frames
> of new foundation on it's stand with the roof on waiting for a swarm. Is
it
> ok like that or will the foundation get too hot, invaded by unwanted
> organisms or anything else? What is my chance of getting a swarm and is it
> too late to think of starting this year? If I do get a swarm will they
> survive the winter? South England.
>
>
>
>




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Subject: Re: pollen in super?
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If the brood box had foundation and the super was drawn comb then you will
get pollen in the super - nowhere else for the bees to put it!

This will happen if you make an artificial swarm using a brood box full of
foundation and put the supers on top.

<mbarton15653@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:8js9a1$2ah$1@nnrp1.deja.com...
> I started from a nuc a few months ago and everything to date seems fine,
> however, on inspection yesterday as well as finding the frames in the
> super being filled with honey and some just beginning to be capped
> off.........I also saw to my surprise some pollen being stored on a
> couple of frames. Is this normal in a super or are my bees trying to
> tell me something like they need more brood room?
> Thankyou for your help.
> Michael
>
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.




Article 25873 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: James Kilty <honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Dead bees! (wild)
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 23:34:25 +0100
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In article <8jtpk4$ces$1@nnrp2.deja.com>, bebs63@my-deja.com writes
>Yesterday (nice and sunny) I came across a mass
>of bees (about 2 feet square) on the ground
>beneath a tree near my house. They looked pretty
>healthy (to my very untrained eye). Today, very
>wet and a bit cooler, the whole mass is either
>dead or just a few individuals still moving. This
>is in the middle of farmland, but we use no
>pesticides. Any ideas what might have happened?
I had a student lose a swarm whilst on holiday and found a pile of dead
bees under a bush nearby. The weather had not been good and the swarm
must have hung and hung and hung using their stores up and eventually
starving to death. They would then lose their grip and fall. They would
be at similar stages of starvation since they share their food. So they
would all die together.

One solution if you find this again (unlikely) is to spray them lightly
with sugar syrup and put a hive next to them to crawl into.
-- 
James Kilty


Article 25874 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: James Kilty <honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Critters in my hives!
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 23:37:47 +0100
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In article <20000704222515.02727.00000006@ng-cd1.aol.com>, BeeCrofter
<beecrofter@aol.comBee> writes
>I usually knock the spiders off the covers and dump the ants and earwigs off
>too.
Yes to losing ants, earwigs, snails and so on, but spiders help with the
wax moth and take few bees as payment.

-- 
James Kilty


Article 25875 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: kent stienburg <beeman@kingston.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bearing of extractor.
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 02:17:07 -0400
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Well, if it's a sealed bearing then no.  But if not then use a food
grade grease as suggested. If the extractor was purchased from a
manufacture then there might be recommendations for preventative
maintenance.  When I built mine I used a sealed bearing for the top of
the spindle but I used a teflon bushing for the bottom.  Since it is
honey I'm curious if the lower bearing isn't sealed.  

Kent Stienburg


Article 25876 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: kent stienburg <beeman@kingston.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Critters in my hives!
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 02:37:06 -0400
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Well,  the first thing Glen is put a super on the one hive if they are
making comb above the inner cover.  You might want to think about
putting some screen across the opening in the inner covers. I'm in
Kingston Ontario and the weather has been very wet here also. As long as
the bugs are outside of the hive then I wouldn't get to worried yet.  I
occasionally find earwigs and ants on the top of the inner cover.  I
knock them off and kill them.  It has not become a real problem as there
is no place for them to get into the hive unless they use the front
door.  If they really bother you then put some thin sponge weather
stripping alone the top edge of the inner cover and the lid should seal
tight. I'm about 1.5 supers/hive behind last year.  But the sun has
shone here for 4 days straight and it's warmed up to summer like temps,
so the sweet clover is out.  Good luck.

Kent Stienburg


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From: c@usit.net (C)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: mad bees
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Greetings 

I am a first year bee keeper, and started two hives this spring. 

One hive is still small and seems weak but the bees are friendly and non
aggressive. On the other hand the other hive is strong appears healthy has
drawn out almost all frames in the brood box, but they are pissed off
every time I as much as remove the top cover of the hive. 

I feel like I jumped out into the middle of a gang of Crips and announced
that I am a Blood.....

Why are these so aggressive? 

All of the bees came from the same place at the same time. 

I realize that they are protecting their hive but this seems  a little
much. I have been a round other Italian bees that I did not even wear and
gloves or head cover.

Do I need to re Queen?  
These are Italian bees and Queens.

Thanks 

Charles


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I put supers on 2 of the three hives, and will monitor the third one.
I had enlarged the entrances 2 weeks ago, and have totally removed the
reducers now. I hope this warm and sunny weather continues, all the bees
are flying like crazy now.
Thanks for the input,
Glen Archer.

kent stienburg wrote:
> 
> Well,  the first thing Glen is put a super on the one hive if they are
> making comb above the inner cover.  You might want to think about
> putting some screen across the opening in the inner covers. I'm in
> Kingston Ontario and the weather has been very wet here also. As long as
> the bugs are outside of the hive then I wouldn't get to worried yet.  I
> occasionally find earwigs and ants on the top of the inner cover.  I
> knock them off and kill them.  It has not become a real problem as there
> is no place for them to get into the hive unless they use the front
> door.  If they really bother you then put some thin sponge weather
> stripping alone the top edge of the inner cover and the lid should seal
> tight. I'm about 1.5 supers/hive behind last year.  But the sun has
> shone here for 4 days straight and it's warmed up to summer like temps,
> so the sweet clover is out.  Good luck.
> 
> Kent Stienburg


Article 25879 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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C wrote:
> 
> Greetings
> 
> I am a first year bee keeper, and started two hives this spring.
> 
> One hive is still small and seems weak but the bees are friendly and non
> aggressive. On the other hand the other hive is strong appears healthy has
> drawn out almost all frames in the brood box, but they are pissed off
> every time I as much as remove the top cover of the hive.

Were they always this way?  Or did they suddenly start?

Check to see if there is another explanation for them being mean - do
they have mites? Are skunks bothering them every night? Is there a good,
laying queen there?

I had one hive which superceded its queen this past spring - they were a
mean bunch too while there was a virgin queen. As soon as the queen was
mated and got down to business, the hive turned gentle again.

If they were always mean, and your queen is healthy (good brood pattern)
and you have no other explanation, you could try to requeen. But be sure
there's no virgin queen in there, or they'll kill any queen you try to
give them.

-Steve

-- 
Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
ACE Kits, Support, Consulting             (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html


Article 25880 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "hans.wartena" <hans.wartena@ping.be>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bearing of extractor.
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 20:45:37 +0200
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Thank you Kent. The bearing is rather standard, at least here in and around
Belgium. Here a sketch
Hans.

kent stienburg heeft geschreven in bericht
<39642463.9C6E68F2@kingston.net>...
>Well, if it's a sealed bearing then no.  But if not then use a food
>grade grease as suggested. If the extractor was purchased from a
>manufacture then there might be recommendations for preventative
>maintenance.  When I built mine I used a sealed bearing for the top of
>the spindle but I used a teflon bushing for the bottom.  Since it is
>honey I'm curious if the lower bearing isn't sealed.
>
>Kent Stienburg


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end



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From: "Dale A. Scheidler" <dscheidl@wp.bsu.edu>
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C wrote:
> 
> Greetings
> 
> I am a first year bee keeper, and started two hives this spring.
> 
> One hive is still small and seems weak but the bees are friendly and non
> aggressive. On the other hand the other hive is strong appears healthy has
> drawn out almost all frames in the brood box, but they are pissed off
> every time I as much as remove the top cover of the hive.
> 
> I feel like I jumped out into the middle of a gang of Crips and announced
> that I am a Blood.....
> 
> Why are these so aggressive?
> 
> All of the bees came from the same place at the same time.
> 
> I realize that they are protecting their hive but this seems  a little
> much. I have been a round other Italian bees that I did not even wear and
> gloves or head cover.
> 
> Do I need to re Queen?
> These are Italian bees and Queens.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Charles
Charles:

Your mean colony likely has the "mean gene" present which comes from
your queen.  I had one like this a few years ago and requeening solved
the meaness problem.  I would suggest you take a look at the broom and
see if you have eggs and brood and that they look normal.


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Make sure there are no other problems like skunks or other animals
bothering the hive. 
Mine are fine if the weather is good, but are grumpy as hell on overcast
or rainy days.
I would make sure you check all the potential problems before
requeening. It would be a real annoyance to discover that the problem
still remains.
My opinion anyway. Regards, Glen Archer.

"Dale A. Scheidler" wrote:
> 
> C wrote:
> >
> > Greetings
> >
> > I am a first year bee keeper, and started two hives this spring.
> >
> > One hive is still small and seems weak but the bees are friendly and non
> > aggressive. On the other hand the other hive is strong appears healthy has
> > drawn out almost all frames in the brood box, but they are pissed off
> > every time I as much as remove the top cover of the hive.
> >
> > I feel like I jumped out into the middle of a gang of Crips and announced
> > that I am a Blood.....
> >
> > Why are these so aggressive?
> >
> > All of the bees came from the same place at the same time.
> >
> > I realize that they are protecting their hive but this seems  a little
> > much. I have been a round other Italian bees that I did not even wear and
> > gloves or head cover.
> >
> > Do I need to re Queen?
> > These are Italian bees and Queens.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Charles
> Charles:
> 
> Your mean colony likely has the "mean gene" present which comes from
> your queen.  I had one like this a few years ago and requeening solved
> the meaness problem.  I would suggest you take a look at the broom and
> see if you have eggs and brood and that they look normal.


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From: "Magic Kent" <bazz@andover111.freeserve.co.uk>
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Subject: Beekeeping articles wanted please ....
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andover2000.net is a non-profit making hobbies website. We try to include as
wide a range of subjects as is possible and it was suggested that we include
bee keeping while UK still has some !. Our bee population got hit by a mite
apparently and is / was in dire straits. I am sorry we cannot pay for
articles, but we would be very grateful for anything that you can offer
including photographs. Full credits will be given for all material
published. Thank you very much.




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Subject: Foundation support pins
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A question for the masses:  Does anyone use the foundation support pins sold by
Dadant as opposed to wiring their frames?  Looks pretty convienent, but was
thinking like any modern convienences there has to be some trade-off.

Bill




Article 25886 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Dave" <davekern@hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Package Hive Swarmed - Now What?
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 16:20:46 -0700
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I had a similar issue with my packaged hive superceding the old queen.  The
new queen is doing fantistic.  Many new eggs and lots of brood.  Some may
disagree, but if you have a lot of bees in the area, I feel they can take
care of there own problems assuming they have eggs to work with.

dave

Billy Y. Smart II wrote in message <3963727F.89FFC231@nospam.boeing.com>...
>Group,
>
>I have had a package hive, installed April 8, swarm on me last week. It
>had built up to two full deeps and I put another deep on with some
>undrawn duraguilt foundation that I had purchased used from an
>individual and had been stored in a barn for about 5 years. I left the
>thing on the hive for a month and the bees never drew it out - not a
>single cell. I must have left it on for too long because 3 weeks ago I
>started finding swarm cells. I cut out the cells and reversed bodies and
>then made up some comb foundation and put it on two weeks ago. When I
>inspected the hive over last weekend I found the hive with a lot fewer
>bees and a lot of chewed comb foundation in that week old super. Lots of
>capped and emerging brood but no eggs or larva. They had drawn the comb
>foundation a little but I think the weather is too hot for thin comb
>foundation - a lot of warping. My other two hives are drawing it out
>like mad though as we are in the midst of what I think to be a alfalfa
>flow.  I think the queen finally gave up on me and left.
>
>My question is: Do I purchase another queen and kill the virgin queen or
>do I let the hive be bees? I am worried that a virgin queen may take too
>long to get mated and start laying eggs. I doubt I will get much honey
>off this hive this year but I worry now if they will be able to build up
>and store enough honey to get them through the winter. They do have two
>deeps fully drawn and lots of stores but not enough for winter I don't
>think.
>
>I am located in S. Central Kansas.
>
>--
>Billy Y. Smart II
>/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
>/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
>/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */
>
>
>




Article 25887 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: D.F.S. <dfs@xmission.xmission.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Plastic Frames?
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I'm the guy with the swarm recovered from the porch column.

The took to the new hive OK.

I threaded wire along the outside edges of new, empty frames and
filled about 6 with comb from the hive in the column.

The queen died in the process, I found her a few days later
drown in honey.

June 17th I added a new queen.
2 days ago, 18 days later, I opened up the hive for a look.

They had extended the transplanted comb to the edges of the frames, 
but it is a bit uneven.

I left a frame out to allow space to hang the queen cage.
They built a comb hanging down from cover which filled the space
I left, and had it about 1/2 full of honey.

There is a fair amount of capped brood, but a relatively small number
of larva? 
This is relative to the percentages I saw in the original hive
as to the ratio of newer/older brood.

The queen was not marked.
There was no brood at all when I added her.
I think most of the young larva died in the process of relocation.
I didn't see any large cells at any time, and presume they couldn't
raise a new queen.

IF I can find new eggs, can I presume the queen, if I can locate her
is the new one I bought?

Should I be able to mark her?

What kind of paint should I use?

Is this done when she is cages seperately? If I do it now, would the
attendants simply remove, smear, get stuck and kill everyone concerned, 
whatever...


I had one box, one frame was undrawn alltogether.
there was probably another 2 frames of unused or partialy drawn
comb in addition to the 3/4 of a frame worth of new comb I previously
mentioned.

Did they simply get overcrowded and would the queen stop laying if
that was the case?
they were spread out somewhat, but I probably had 2 frames full of capped 
brood.

What limits the population in a healthy hive?

I bought a new box and an excluder.

I bought foundation with all the frames I bought to begin with.
It is duraguilt? plastic sheet with embossed wax cells in a sheet that
fits into the frames.

I have 6 unused sheets.

I would like to move the bees out of the old comb and replace it with the
new foundation.

I presume I can move those frames a few at a time into the upper box above
the excluder, let the brood emerge, let them fill the cells with honey, 
melt it down, and install the new foundation in the frames.

due to uneven surface, I'm afraid I'll kill too many bees or the queen moving
frames around as they stick out too far in spots.

Any problems with this approach?

I was afraid I was running short on space, and bought 10 frames of a solid
plastic design.
He was out of absolutely everything else.

How do the bees take to them?

Any pointers?

Would I be better off using them for supers or brood frames?


The bees appear to be very active, and busy.

watching them enter the hive, many appear to have have "Fat" squirrel
type cheeks.

I don't know exactly if it an illusion, my imagination, or a true
observation, but has anyone else seen this.

Cheeks are not a storage area for bees is it?

I'm afraid this is an indication of mites?


Marc



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Subject: Re: leaving supers on all year
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>
>If it's the end of the year, take the extracted ones, and the partially
>filled ones that you didn't extract, and put them in a super _above_ the
>inner cover and put the outer cover over it. The bees will clean out all
>of the honey from all of them and bring it down to store it.
>

 Right, or you could take an uncap comb  put in Refrigerator to keep it from
sour.


Article 25889 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Gary Johns <gpjohns@okstate.edu>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Package Hive Swarmed - Now What?
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 09:26:04 -0500
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Billy,

First, I would feed the bees you've got left until Winter. Either way
you decide (requeen or not) they'll still need food. With two drawn
brood supers you should be able to save them.

Second, don't plan on getting any honey from them this year. Make it
your goal of getting them through the winter. Then if you have a good
spring next year you'll probably get some honey. Remember they still
have to draw out foundation on their honey supers and feeding them sugar
syrup next spring will only help them to do this. Good Luck!

Gary J.



Article 25890 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Larry W" <larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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If I put it in a super ABOVE the inner cover and below the outer cover how
can the bees get to it. I suppose your inner covers have a hole in them?

Larry

"Steve Huston" <shuston@riverace.com> wrote in message
news:39624AFE.96A242FE@riverace.com...
> Larry W wrote:
> >
> > OK assuming I remove the supers, what do I do with the frames that have
> > partial honey in them. I have many that have 50% and more capped honey.
> > Should I extract them?
>
> Extract the ones that are mostly capped, leave the rest on for the bees
> to finish (assuming you have more time this year for the bees to fill
> them up).
>
> If it's the end of the year, take the extracted ones, and the partially
> filled ones that you didn't extract, and put them in a super _above_ the
> inner cover and put the outer cover over it. The bees will clean out all
> of the honey from all of them and bring it down to store it.
>
> -Steve
>
> --
> Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
> Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
> ACE Kits, Support, Consulting             (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
> Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html




Article 25891 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Honey Flow Beginning in Indiana?
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Fellow Beekeepers:
I think that the second honey flow is just beginning here in Indiana. 
We had a nice flow from latter April to May 25.  After May 25 NO surplus
honey was made in my apiary.  My observation hive is indicating that the
bees are now making surplus honey.  The flow last season began about
this time and lasted until late July.  

Best regards,
Dale


Article 25892 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "hans.wartena" <hans.wartena@ping.be>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Plastic Frames?
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 00:11:58 +0200
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That is a long story. I will try to give some comments:
D.F.S. heeft geschreven in bericht <8k37j1$ah4$1@news.xmission.com>...
>I'm the guy with the swarm recovered from the porch column.
>
>The took to the new hive OK.
>
>I threaded wire along the outside edges of new, empty frames and
>filled about 6 with comb from the hive in the column.
>
>The queen died in the process, I found her a few days later
>drown in honey.
>
>June 17th I added a new queen.
>2 days ago, 18 days later, I opened up the hive for a look.
>
>They had extended the transplanted comb to the edges of the frames,
>but it is a bit uneven.
>
>I left a frame out to allow space to hang the queen cage.
>They built a comb hanging down from cover which filled the space
>I left, and had it about 1/2 full of honey.
It is normal that bees build in the gap under the queen cage. Better take it
out as soon as Possible.
>
>There is a fair amount of capped brood, but a relatively small number
>of larva?
>This is relative to the percentages I saw in the original hive
>as to the ratio of newer/older brood.
Expect about 2 times more closed than open brood, as it is only open for 6
days and closed for 12.
>
>The queen was not marked.
>There was no brood at all when I added her.
>I think most of the young larva died in the process of relocation.
>I didn't see any large cells at any time, and presume they couldn't
>raise a new queen.
>
>IF I can find new eggs, can I presume the queen, if I can locate her
>is the new one I bought?
Yes
>
>Should I be able to mark her?
Yes
>
>What kind of paint should I use?

The simplest is to use white corrector, the stuff to cover wrong characters
using a typewriter.
Or use a kind of large felt pen, available in 5 colours.
And of course there are these tiny opatit disks with numbers on.

>
>Is this done when she is cages seperately? If I do it now, would the
>attendants simply remove, smear, get stuck and kill everyone concerned,
>whatever...
>
>
>I had one box, one frame was undrawn alltogether.
>there was probably another 2 frames of unused or partialy drawn
>comb in addition to the 3/4 of a frame worth of new comb I previously
>mentioned.
>
With a secure hand it can be done on the comb.
I prefer to take her indoors, close the windows, so she can’t fly away.
Let the paint dry for a minute or 2.
Many put here back in a cage, but I think, since the whole procedure takes
less than 15 minutes, it is save to set here back, eventually sprayed with e
drop of honey. Never lost a queen by doing so, toy toy.

>Did they simply get overcrowded and would the queen stop laying if
>that was the case?
No
>they were spread out somewhat, but I probably had 2 frames full of capped
>brood.
>
>What limits the population in a healthy hive?
>
>I bought a new box and an excluder.
>
>I bought foundation with all the frames I bought to begin with.
>It is duraguilt? plastic sheet with embossed wax cells in a sheet that
>fits into the frames.
>
>I have 6 unused sheets.
>
>I would like to move the bees out of the old comb and replace it with the
>new foundation.
>
>I presume I can move those frames a few at a time into the upper box above
>the excluder, let the brood emerge, let them fill the cells with honey,
>melt it down, and install the new foundation in the frames.
>
>due to uneven surface, I'm afraid I'll kill too many bees or the queen
moving
>frames around as they stick out too far in spots.
>
>Any problems with this approach?
>
>I was afraid I was running short on space, and bought 10 frames of a solid
>plastic design.
>He was out of absolutely everything else.
>
>How do the bees take to them?
>
>Any pointers?
>
>Would I be better off using them for supers or brood frames?
>
>
>The bees appear to be very active, and busy.
>
>watching them enter the hive, many appear to have have "Fat" squirrel
>type cheeks.
>
>I don't know exactly if it an illusion, my imagination, or a true
>observation, but has anyone else seen this.
>
Must be an illusion.

>Cheeks are not a storage area for bees is it?
No
>
>I'm afraid this is an indication of mites?

No mites, booth varoa and acariapis, look verry different
>
>
>Marc
>




Article 25893 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Larry W" <larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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OK I built my own and I didn't add holes. After reading this thread I was
going to take the 4 supers that I have and put a queen excluder between the
brood box on my 2 strongest hives and put 2 supers on each. However with
your Idea it will add more stores to each hive.

Thanks to all

Larry

"Steve Huston" <shuston@riverace.com> wrote in message
news:39662F72.C3ECCFD@riverace.com...
> Yes - my inner covers have an elongated hole. Not the migratory kind.
>
> -Steve
>
> Larry W wrote:
> >
> > If I put it in a super ABOVE the inner cover and below the outer cover
how
> > can the bees get to it. I suppose your inner covers have a hole in them?
> >
> > Larry
> >
> > "Steve Huston" <shuston@riverace.com> wrote in message
> > news:39624AFE.96A242FE@riverace.com...
> > > Larry W wrote:
> > > >
> > > > OK assuming I remove the supers, what do I do with the frames that
have
> > > > partial honey in them. I have many that have 50% and more capped
honey.
> > > > Should I extract them?
> > >
> > > Extract the ones that are mostly capped, leave the rest on for the
bees
> > > to finish (assuming you have more time this year for the bees to fill
> > > them up).
> > >
> > > If it's the end of the year, take the extracted ones, and the
partially
> > > filled ones that you didn't extract, and put them in a super _above_
the
> > > inner cover and put the outer cover over it. The bees will clean out
all
> > > of the honey from all of them and bring it down to store it.
> > >
> > > -Steve
> > >
> > > --
> > > Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
> > > Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
> > > ACE Kits, Support, Consulting             (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
> > > Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html
>
> --
> Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
> Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
> ACE Kits, Support, Consulting             (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
> Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html




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From: "Barry Metz" <junee.apiaries@interact.net.au>
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Subject: Biased Media Coverage
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Hi
Can someone help me?
Our Local paper has printed an article claiming that Cephalicia
tannourinensis is a cousin of the Bee, they allude that the Bee is the
honeybee but make no particular statement.  Cephalicia tannourinensis is
some sort of parasitic insect which is causing some considerable harm to the
Cedar trees of Lebanon.  I am becoming annoyed with that anti apiarist media
slant in our local area and would like to get some facts on the Cephalicia
tannourinensis and it's relationship (if any) to Apis Melifera.
Thanks

--
Barry Metz




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D.F.S. <dfs@xmission.xmission.com> wrote in message
news:8k37j1$ah4$1@news.xmission.com...
> I'm the guy with the swarm recovered from the porch column.
>
>
> IF I can find new eggs, can I presume the queen, if I can locate her
> is the new one I bought?

Probably safe to assume that, yes.

> Should I be able to mark her?

If you can locate and catch her (be carefull in handling) you can mark her.

> What kind of paint should I use?

Testors Model paint ... light blue for year 2000 queens.

> Is this done when she is cages seperately? If I do it now, would the
> attendants simply remove, smear, get stuck and kill everyone concerned,
> whatever...

If she is still in the cage with attendants and you are ready to put her in
the hive, normally you would take the attendants out of the cage before
placing her in the hive.  Take them out, mark the queen, put the queen back
in by herself and then place the cage in the hive for the bees to release
her.

> What limits the population in a healthy hive?

I'd say the biggest limits are space, queen's abilities and available food
supply.

> I presume I can move those frames a few at a time into the upper box above
> the excluder, let the brood emerge, let them fill the cells with honey,
> melt it down, and install the new foundation in the frames.
>
> due to uneven surface, I'm afraid I'll kill too many bees or the queen
moving
> frames around as they stick out too far in spots.
>
> Any problems with this approach?

Sounds pretty reasonable to me...

> Cheeks are not a storage area for bees is it?

No, honey is stored (carried) in a special "stomach" in their abdomin.

> I'm afraid this is an indication of mites?

Don't think so.  Adult mites can most commonly be found riding on the backs
of their thorax section.

While you can learn a lot using this newsgroup as a resource, I would
strongly suggest that you get a book or two on bees and read up.  All the
above are common topics in most books.  Personally, when I started into
bees, I read probably no less than 12 books, and I continue to read and
learn.

Have fun ...





Article 25896 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Billy Y. Smart II" <Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com>
Subject: Re: Foundation support pins
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WSkriba wrote:

> A question for the masses:  Does anyone use the foundation support pins sold by
> Dadant as opposed to wiring their frames?  Looks pretty convienent, but was
> thinking like any modern convienences there has to be some trade-off.
>
> Bill

I'm a newbe this year and I used support pins on my brood frames instead of wiring
on my 3 package colonies. I'd estimate 20% of my drawn brood frames are bowed -
even with the pins. It has been pretty hot here in Kansas over the last month or
so though. I plan to wire all my brood frames from now on.

--
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */





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From: "Thomas S. Allen" <tsallen@mediaone.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Ron,

Saw your post on the newsgroup. I've kept one colony here in southern NH
(Fremont and Exeter) for about 5 years. I've had 2 deeps and recently 3.
I've wrapped the hive, though not with tar paper, and I've left it
uncovered. Now I think it's most important to keep the hive out of the
prevailing winds, in the sun and ventilated. There are a lot of factors that
contribute to successful wintering over. A big one is the strength of the
colony going into the winter.

BTW - great picture of the bur comb and inner cover in your other post.

Tom


<rec01rec@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:8ju096$7qd$1@nnrp1.deja.com...
> Hi Mike in VT,
>
> To winter in New England (Portsmouth, NH) how many brood chambers
> should I have for winter (I have been reading both 2 and 3 and not sure
> which)?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ron
>
> In article <8ip7un$8pt$1@nnrp1.deja.com>,
>   kamtout@together.net wrote:
> > Question,  When you place Tarpaper in order to help keep hive warm
> > during cold
> > > weather and what would happen if the bee fly out from the hive and
> end
> > up hit a
> > > cold snap in the air?
> > >                                  Tim
> > >
> > Tim,
> > Normally bees don't fly about looking for honey until the temp is 51
> or
> > higher. But since they've been cooped up they will make short little
> > runs for a 100 feet or so in quite cold weather since they need to
> > defecate somewhere. If they hit a cold snap they fly back. Every
> winter
> > during one of these cleansing flights its not unheard of to see bees
> > dead all over but the numbers are usually only a few hundred. And this
> > is with quite a few hives about. They'll definitely die or get deathly
> > ill if it's so cold they can't leave the hive for 2 months, but that
> > would be due to nosema. The tarpaper doesn't keep the hive warm. It
> does
> > two things. #1 It provides a protection against wind. #2 it warms the
> > hive to temperatures that allow the bees in the dead of a winter to
> > slightly break cluster enough to let them move to another honey frame.
> > Is it absolutely necessary? NO. This gets into a philosophical
> approach
> > for some. I have freinds that never wrap theirs and others with
> HUNDREDS
> > of hives and they feel the insurance of wrapping pays. It's time
> > consuming more than expensive. One roll ($10.00) does about 20 hives.
> > But in areas further north in Canada, wintering bees is a bit more
> > serious. They experience colder temps (i.e. -30 to 40- below zero) on
> a
> > regular basis and some move their hive to wintering chambers where the
> > wind and cold are not as extreme. I've even seen arguments for killing
> > bees each year and taking the winter stores as honey in these cold
> > areas as it's economically better. go figure.
> > Others up here move their bees to Carolinas where they can winter them
> > over on only one deep super and take the other as extracted honey
> > because the winters are easier there.
> > Back to your original question, bees die when they fly in winter but
> > it's not like the whole hive gets flying at once and instantly turns
> to
> > crystal and drops in the field eh? Only a small bunch die in those
> > flights.
> >
> > --
> > Mike in VT
> >
> > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> > Before you buy.
> >
>
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.




Article 25898 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Barry Metz" <junee.apiaries@interact.net.au>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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I'm really very sorry that you believe this.
I tend to think that News Journalists have a Moral and Ethical
responsibility to report the News, NOT to slant it to their own Bias or
Agenda
C <c@usit.net> wrote in message
news:c-0807000526050001@dialup53.tnnas2.usit.net...
> Barry
>
> Please you must understand that the news media does not have to tell the
> truth, but only something that will sell news.
>
> C.
>
>
>
> In article <unA95.84$YQ5.11452523@news.interact.net.au>, "Barry Metz"
> <junee.apiaries@interact.net.au> wrote:
>
> > Hi
> > Can someone help me?
> > Our Local paper has printed an article claiming that Cephalicia
> > tannourinensis is a cousin of the Bee, they allude that the Bee is the
> > honeybee but make no particular statement.  Cephalicia tannourinensis is
> > some sort of parasitic insect which is causing some considerable harm to
the
> > Cedar trees of Lebanon.  I am becoming annoyed with that anti apiarist
media
> > slant in our local area and would like to get some facts on the
Cephalicia
> > tannourinensis and it's relationship (if any) to Apis Melifera.
> > Thanks
> >
> > --
> > Barry Metz




Article 25899 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: Why@me.com (SomeOne)
Subject: Re: Bee-go
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In article <8k6jdv$7o2$1@neptunium.btinternet.com>, "Peter Bennell" <Peter.Bennell@btinternet.com> wrote:
>I have seen some references to this.  Can anyone tell me what it is and
>where to get some?
>
>Thanks
Bee-Go is butyric anhydride. Basically it is labratory stink...and it lives 
up to it's name.:)
 
 You can get it from any of the bee catalogs if you can't get it at your 
regular dealer. Bee-Go and Honey Robber are the same chemical except Honey 
Robber adds a bit of a cherry smell added to it to make it nicer for humans.
 



Article 25900 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Jim Sharp" <jps@ticnet.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: AFB in my Apiary??
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I'm a pretty new beekeeper (2nd year). This year I bought
2 established hives from a retiring beekeeper. One was light
when I got it and it just didn't build up. Upon a recent inspection
and armed with some knowledge from James Tew's article in
the July 2000 "Bee Culture" - I strongly suspect a bad case
of AFT in the weak hive and probably some in the second
bought hive. I didn't see any symptoms in the 2 hives started
from packages, but I'm real nervous as I used 1 comb for each
package from the diseased hive to 'help' the packages.

Now what to do...?

There are still quite a few bees in the bad hive. I'm thinking of
shaking them into a package or onto foundation (& feeding)
as Mr. Tew did in the article. Then I guess burning the equipment,
but I've read something about boiling lye water can clean the
woodenware?

The stronger hive that has some light symptoms, I'm just not
sure what to do about them? As I'm writing this, I should've done
a more thorough inspection. The hive was pretty strong early,
but it could probably be stronger than it is now.

I'm just sick about this, I put 2 supers on the weak hive early
just to clean up and then put one each on the packages as they
got stronger than the diseased hive.

What to do now??

Jim
TX USA





Article 25901 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Murray McGregor <murray@denrosa.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Are my hives diseased??
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>> Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>>
>> Norman Patterson
>>
>> npatt@snet.net
>>
>
>

Add to the other points.

Has it got enough, or even any, food?

Suppressed brood rearing can have several causes and lack of nutrition
is one of the main ones. Thus it MAY need feeding. Nectar dearths are
common, even when you least expect them.
-- 
Murray McGregor


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From: c@usit.net (C)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Biased Media Coverage
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Agenda

You must not have to deal with them on a daily basis. Just for instance
have you ever been interviewed on TV or Radio? The interview may take ten
to fifteen minutes but there is only a twenty to thirty seconds of the
interview aired. Of this time on the air the questions that you are asked
and the answers that you give are not always left together. I have had one
question asked and another answer used for the question aired. I do not
give interviews nor do I make statements. If you do not say anything they
cannot change what you have said.....

I will say that not all reporters are bad, only the ones that want the
story no matter what the cost to the public to make their station or
publication get better ratings. Ratings is what it is all about......



In article <eLF95.90$c76.12091444@news.interact.net.au>, "Barry Metz"
<junee.apiaries@interact.net.au> wrote:

> I'm really very sorry that you believe this.
> I tend to think that News Journalists have a Moral and Ethical
> responsibility to report the News, NOT to slant it to their own Bias or
> Agenda
> C <c@usit.net> wrote in message
> news:c-0807000526050001@dialup53.tnnas2.usit.net...
> > Barry
> >
> > Please you must understand that the news media does not have to tell the
> > truth, but only something that will sell news.
> >
> > C.
> >
> >


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Greetings,
Can someone help me sort out what happened, I will try to make it short.

This has been an excellent year in this area,( 50 miles south of
Washington D.C. in Va.).Plenty of rain, warm temps, everything was as
good as it gets,BUT I did a little
experimentation, I'll explain!!
I have 6 hives of Buckfast bees,normally I do all the swarm prevention
thatmost people do and alittle more with good results (only 1 hive
swarmed this year).
After swarm season is over I have a year to think of something new to
try to help
reduce swarming. Last year it was "waiting 2 weeks after putting on
supers to add
queen excluders"( making sure the queen has not moved up). the reason
for this is
in the past I have noticed that if the workers are reluctant to move up
through the excluder,they soon get crowded and swarm. The idea is to let
them move freely
into the supers and become complacent, then add the restriction of the
excluder.
Well all this worked well this year as with last year, the new thing I
tried this year
was( new to me ) not to add queen excluder, just supers. So 5 hives had
excluders 1 did not. This hive was to say the least prolific. 6 supers
of capped and uncapped honey amonth ago.NOW the problems start!!! The
honey flow was over the last time I checked there were 4 capped supers 2
uncapped, approx...At that time I noticed a small patch (palm sized) of
worker and drone brood on one of the uncapped frames, and thought that
was going to be it.Over the past couple of weeks I noticed a reduction
of workers bearding on the outside of hive, so it was time for
inspection. Well to my surprise when I opened the hive to see masses of
drones and drone comb,AND almost all the honey capped and uncapped
GONE!!! This was my most populated hive so robbing is not a
consideration. The only thing I can think of is the mass of Drones ate
it. From 6 supers to 3, the rest was full of drones.Maybe the queen
failed or was superseded anyway I could not find my marked queen ( or
any queen that day) but there is normal amounts of worker brood, so
there is a queen there. Another thing not right here, for being such a
prolific queen and such a high pop. of workers, and such a good
honeyflow this year, the stores in the brood chambers are also gone,
nothing...
Can anyone shed some light on what may have happened, I am not disturbed
by this but I consider this another learning experience..
Thanks
L.E.G.




Article 25904 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Billy Y. Smart II" <Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com>
Subject: How do I recycle Black Perco?
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Group,

Remember me? I'm the poster who reported lots of burr comb being built
on some black perco frames that I had used in a bait hive. Anyway, I am
in the process of slowly working those braced combs out of the hive. I'm
not ready to give up on those frames though. Eventually I'm going to
have the bees clean the combs out, scrape the combs off the frames and I
want to recycle the frames and try it again.

How do I do this? Can I melt the wax and spray in on the plasic with a
sprayer? Is there a better way?

--
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */





Article 25905 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Charlie Kroeger <ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Biased Media Coverage
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Barry Metz apparently from Australia believes:

>I tend to think that News Journalists have a Moral and Ethical
>responsibility to report the News, NOT to slant it to their own Bias or
>Agenda

Maybe in Australia, but according to John Pilger, a journalist with those
qualities you think Journalist have elsewhere, he has as low a regard for
Australian journalism as he does for American journalism.  It all has
something to do with who 'owns' the news services, and money.  Moral and
Ethical?... Name three corporate owned newspaper or television 'journalist'
with these qualities, working today. 

Charlie Kroeger


Article 25906 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com>
Subject: Extracting Honey
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 18:20:03 -0700
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Hi,
I was wondering if anyone can offer advice for extracting honey, without
purchasing one of the (very expensive) extractors.  I would like to find a way
to get the honey off the frame without completely destroying the comb, so the
bees have to start from scratch rebuilding the comb too (if this is possible).
I tried scraping the caps off, and then laying the frame on a cookie sheet in
a very barely warm oven, but the whole comb fell off the foundation (plastic
foundation).  I've only kept bees for three years, mostly for pollination, but
would like to get a little honey.  The extractors I've seen are just so
expensive!  Thanks for any advice.

Niki

--


J & N F.

Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.





Article 25907 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Peter Amschel <amschelp@pe.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Extracting Honey
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There are plastic, hand-crank, two-frame extractors which work pretty 
well for a small-scale beekeeper. Moi, I first had a beekeeper friend 
extract my frames, then I went to the two-frame extractor and I finally 
settled on top bar hives down.





In article <eYmvSPU6$GA.292@cpmsnbbsa09>, 
johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com says...
> Hi,
> I was wondering if anyone can offer advice for extracting honey, without
> purchasing one of the (very expensive) extractors.  I would like to find a way
> to get the honey off the frame without completely destroying the comb, so the
> bees have to start from scratch rebuilding the comb too (if this is possible).
> I tried scraping the caps off, and then laying the frame on a cookie sheet in
> a very barely warm oven, but the whole comb fell off the foundation (plastic
> foundation).  I've only kept bees for three years, mostly for pollination, but
> would like to get a little honey.  The extractors I've seen are just so
> expensive!  Thanks for any advice.
> 
> Niki
> 
> --
> 
> 
> J & N F.
> 
> Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
> 
> 
> 
> 




Article 25908 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: kent stienburg <beeman@kingston.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: 6 full supers evaporated
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 23:02:13 -0400
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Well I'll take a stab :-)

You mentioned that when you inspected the nest you found no stores and
capped brood.  Did you see any eggs? Did you look for queen cells?  I
don't use a queen excluder and I have had little bit of brood up in the
first super, mostly worker though.  I'd be hesitant to suggest that
drones ate almost 3 boxes of honey.  How many frames of brood was
there?  I have had some  very large colonies consume alot of the surplus
in a dearth.  Can't say it was that much though.  I guess (and this is a
guess) I would think either one of 2 things from your info.  1. You've
had a swarm.  Or 2 the flow stopped a while back and you're very large
colony ate some of your surplus.  Think I might lean towards #2.  

Kent


Article 25909 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Extracting Honey
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>I was wondering if anyone can offer advice for extracting honey, without
>purchasing one of the (very expensive) extractors. 

   Find a local beekeeper who does custom extracting.  Decide beforehand who
keeps the cappings.  Rates run 5-10 cents per pound, depending on whether you
help, the size of the job, etc.

   I wouldn't set up a honey processing situation unless I had 50 or more
hives.  I have taken loads (more than I should have put on a pickup) of full
supers, and picked back up my empty supers and honey buckets the next day. The
hand crank extractors are just playthings that will wear you out.  Try doing it
in the kitchen and you'll wind up divorced.... 


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Home Page:  http://pollinator.com

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


Article 25910 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Teri Bachus" <bachmoz@aug.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: AFB in my Apiary??
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 22:10:54 -0400
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have another experienced beekeeper or your state inspector check it out to
confirm afb...
also recommend visit this site: http://www.nba.org.nz/pms/manual/ for the
excellent resource
"Pest Management Strategy - Elimination of American Foulbrood Without the
Use of Drugs            A Practical Manual for Beekeepers" from the National
Beekeepers' Assn. of New Zealand





Article 25911 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Barry Metz" <junee.apiaries@interact.net.au>
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The problem with the media today is that we permit them to make, slant and
subvert news to their own or their employers agenda.  I don't think that I
live in a 'fool's paradise' as some seem to think.
I feel that this and similar misreporting must be criticised and challenged
wherever possible
Charlie Kroeger <ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com> wrote in message
news:qpofmskhqgsoha7r0514puiflatnjq7av0@4ax.com...
> Barry Metz apparently from Australia believes:
>
> >I tend to think that News Journalists have a Moral and Ethical
> >responsibility to report the News, NOT to slant it to their own Bias or
> >Agenda
>
> Maybe in Australia, but according to John Pilger, a journalist with those
> qualities you think Journalist have elsewhere, he has as low a regard for
> Australian journalism as he does for American journalism.  It all has
> something to do with who 'owns' the news services, and money.  Moral and
> Ethical?... Name three corporate owned newspaper or television
'journalist'
> with these qualities, working today.
>
> Charlie Kroeger




Article 25912 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: honeybs@radix.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Anyone going to EAS?
Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 10:28:54 GMT
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It's been three years since I've been.  Being that it is in my home
state I decided to go.  Anyone else?

Greg the beekeep



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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: mad bees
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>
>I did have really mean bees this year and requeen with a Russian as a

Few question about Russian Queen, It is possible Rearing a Russian Queen on
your own after she laying an eggs? Does she have to be with an Russian Drones?
I was  thinking of raise a pure Russian Queen and place her in Italian hive. My
bees are friendy and calm. I don't think it would be wise to do so?
                          Tim


Article 25914 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "TJ" <terjoh54@hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Swarms
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 22:39:29 -0500
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A neighbor about 2 1/2 miles from me came and told me there was a swarm in
his birdhouse and wanted to know it I wanted it.  I caught the swarm without
any problems. Let the hive set there for a couple of days.  He called me and
said there was another swarm a lot smaller than the first back at the
birdhouse.  Does anyone think this is the part of the same swarm or a
different swarm?




Article 25915 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee-go
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> You can get it from any of the bee catalogs if you can't get it at your 
>regular dealer. Bee-Go and Honey Robber are the same chemical except Honey 
>Robber adds a bit of a cherry smell added to it to make it nicer for humans.
> 
>
 I think they call it liquid Smoke too. They works. I remove super with full of
honey and took another lid with a filter cloth( after spray Bee-go on it) on
the inside and lay it up aging the super, Lord behold, The bees jump out other
side like craze and fast as it can be.They really hate that smell.
Spray it at the shop before you take it at the site that way you won't spill
any inside your hive.
Brushy Mountain have it for $9.25 per pint.


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From: "Thomas S. Allen" <tsallen@mediaone.net>
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I have seen plans for building your own. Here's one
http://www.dansgardenshop.com/gardenshop/builyourownh.html
I was fortunate to get a stainless two frame hand cranked one from a
retiring beekeeper at a very low price. Perfect for my one colony. Good
luck.

----- Original Message -----
From: "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 9:20 PM
Subject: Extracting Honey


> Hi,
> I was wondering if anyone can offer advice for extracting honey, without
> purchasing one of the (very expensive) extractors.  I would like to find a
way
> to get the honey off the frame without completely destroying the comb, so
the
> bees have to start from scratch rebuilding the comb too (if this is
possible).
> I tried scraping the caps off, and then laying the frame on a cookie sheet
in
> a very barely warm oven, but the whole comb fell off the foundation
(plastic
> foundation).  I've only kept bees for three years, mostly for pollination,
but
> would like to get a little honey.  The extractors I've seen are just so
> expensive!  Thanks for any advice.
>
> Niki
>
> --
>
>
> J & N F.
>
> Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
>
>
>


"J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
news:eYmvSPU6$GA.292@cpmsnbbsa09...
> Hi,
> I was wondering if anyone can offer advice for extracting honey, without
> purchasing one of the (very expensive) extractors.  I would like to find a
way
> to get the honey off the frame without completely destroying the comb, so
the
> bees have to start from scratch rebuilding the comb too (if this is
possible).
> I tried scraping the caps off, and then laying the frame on a cookie sheet
in
> a very barely warm oven, but the whole comb fell off the foundation
(plastic
> foundation).  I've only kept bees for three years, mostly for pollination,
but
> would like to get a little honey.  The extractors I've seen are just so
> expensive!  Thanks for any advice.
>
> Niki
>
> --
>
>
> J & N F.
>
> Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
>
>
>




Article 25917 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 11:26:16 +0000
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Yes there were normal amounts of eggs and capped brood. This was a very very
populated hive, more than I have ever seen in one hive before. This queen is
(or was) a prolific layer. I am going to check again soon to see if I can
find her (or her daughter) in a couple of days, and I will let you know what
happens.Oh by the way I did not see any fully constructed queen cells. Only
what looked like starters (or maybe they had been used and were being
deconstructed)
Thanks all
L.E.G.

"L.E.G." wrote:

> Greetings,
> Can someone help me sort out what happened, I will try to make it short.
>
> This has been an excellent year in this area,( 50 miles south of
> Washington D.C. in Va.).Plenty of rain, warm temps, everything was as
> good as it gets,BUT I did a little
> experimentation, I'll explain!!
> I have 6 hives of Buckfast bees,normally I do all the swarm prevention
> thatmost people do and alittle more with good results (only 1 hive
> swarmed this year).
> After swarm season is over I have a year to think of something new to
> try to help
> reduce swarming. Last year it was "waiting 2 weeks after putting on
> supers to add
> queen excluders"( making sure the queen has not moved up). the reason
> for this is
> in the past I have noticed that if the workers are reluctant to move up
> through the excluder,they soon get crowded and swarm. The idea is to let
> them move freely
> into the supers and become complacent, then add the restriction of the
> excluder.
> Well all this worked well this year as with last year, the new thing I
> tried this year
> was( new to me ) not to add queen excluder, just supers. So 5 hives had
> excluders 1 did not. This hive was to say the least prolific. 6 supers
> of capped and uncapped honey amonth ago.NOW the problems start!!! The
> honey flow was over the last time I checked there were 4 capped supers 2
> uncapped, approx...At that time I noticed a small patch (palm sized) of
> worker and drone brood on one of the uncapped frames, and thought that
> was going to be it.Over the past couple of weeks I noticed a reduction
> of workers bearding on the outside of hive, so it was time for
> inspection. Well to my surprise when I opened the hive to see masses of
> drones and drone comb,AND almost all the honey capped and uncapped
> GONE!!! This was my most populated hive so robbing is not a
> consideration. The only thing I can think of is the mass of Drones ate
> it. From 6 supers to 3, the rest was full of drones.Maybe the queen
> failed or was superseded anyway I could not find my marked queen ( or
> any queen that day) but there is normal amounts of worker brood, so
> there is a queen there. Another thing not right here, for being such a
> prolific queen and such a high pop. of workers, and such a good
> honeyflow this year, the stores in the brood chambers are also gone,
> nothing...
> Can anyone shed some light on what may have happened, I am not disturbed
> by this but I consider this another learning experience..
> Thanks
> L.E.G.



Article 25918 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Article 25919 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Dale A. Scheidler" <dscheidl@wp.bsu.edu>
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Billy Y. Smart II wrote:
> 
> Group,
> 
> Remember me? I'm the poster who reported lots of burr comb being built
> on some black perco frames that I had used in a bait hive. Anyway, I am
> in the process of slowly working those braced combs out of the hive. I'm
> not ready to give up on those frames though. Eventually I'm going to
> have the bees clean the combs out, scrape the combs off the frames and I
> want to recycle the frames and try it again.
> 
> How do I do this? Can I melt the wax and spray in on the plasic with a
> sprayer? Is there a better way?
> 
> --
> Billy Y. Smart II
> /* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
> /*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
> /*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */
Billy:  
I have heard that you can brush melted beeswax on with a brush.  To me
this seems like it would work.


Article 25920 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Yes - my inner covers have an elongated hole. Not the migratory kind.

-Steve

Larry W wrote:
> 
> If I put it in a super ABOVE the inner cover and below the outer cover how
> can the bees get to it. I suppose your inner covers have a hole in them?
> 
> Larry
> 
> "Steve Huston" <shuston@riverace.com> wrote in message
> news:39624AFE.96A242FE@riverace.com...
> > Larry W wrote:
> > >
> > > OK assuming I remove the supers, what do I do with the frames that have
> > > partial honey in them. I have many that have 50% and more capped honey.
> > > Should I extract them?
> >
> > Extract the ones that are mostly capped, leave the rest on for the bees
> > to finish (assuming you have more time this year for the bees to fill
> > them up).
> >
> > If it's the end of the year, take the extracted ones, and the partially
> > filled ones that you didn't extract, and put them in a super _above_ the
> > inner cover and put the outer cover over it. The bees will clean out all
> > of the honey from all of them and bring it down to store it.
> >
> > -Steve
> >
> > --
> > Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
> > Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
> > ACE Kits, Support, Consulting             (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
> > Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html

-- 
Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
ACE Kits, Support, Consulting             (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html


Article 25921 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: c@usit.net (C)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Biased Media Coverage
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Barry

Please you must understand that the news media does not have to tell the
truth, but only something that will sell news. 

C.



In article <unA95.84$YQ5.11452523@news.interact.net.au>, "Barry Metz"
<junee.apiaries@interact.net.au> wrote:

> Hi
> Can someone help me?
> Our Local paper has printed an article claiming that Cephalicia
> tannourinensis is a cousin of the Bee, they allude that the Bee is the
> honeybee but make no particular statement.  Cephalicia tannourinensis is
> some sort of parasitic insect which is causing some considerable harm to the
> Cedar trees of Lebanon.  I am becoming annoyed with that anti apiarist media
> slant in our local area and would like to get some facts on the Cephalicia
> tannourinensis and it's relationship (if any) to Apis Melifera.
> Thanks
> 
> --
> Barry Metz


Article 25922 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: mad bees
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>I had one hive which superceded its queen this past spring - they were a
>mean bunch too while there was a virgin queen. As soon as the queen was
>mated and got down to business, the hive turned gentle again.
>

Same here.
                Tim


Article 25923 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Thomas S. Allen" <tsallen@mediaone.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <4y785.94262$5k2.194956@dfw-read.news.verio.net>
Subject: Re: Chilled Brood?
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Charles,

I have had the same experience, practically. I just made and populated my
observation hive. It has a medium frame I hope to have drawn out and filled
with honey. I put in 2 deep frames from a nuc with brood. The uncapped dried
up. Some turned black and some didn't. The workers have cleaned out the
cells. I don't think it's a case of disease, but I'm not sure. A few capped
cells have hatched. As for the queen, I couldn't find her in the nuc which
had sat for a week with the queen excluder over the entrance so I'm going to
watch them rear a new queen.

My obs. hive is in the garage and the temperature swings from 55 last night
to 92 in the day. I put an electronic indoor/outdoor thermometer (records
hi/low temp.) at the top vent. The inside and outside temp are usually
within a few degrees of each other. I asked an experienced beekeeper (former
state inspector) if I should put the covers on. The advice was that I
should - more for darkness than temperature!? My mini colony is busy but not
exactly thriving.

Good luck

Tom


"CharlesW" <charlesw@thegateway.net> wrote in message
news:4y785.94262$5k2.194956@dfw-read.news.verio.net...
> 2 days ago I pulled a beautiful frame of brood from a great hive for use
in
> an observation hive.  This is my first experience with an observation hive
> and my first experience with any problems with my bees.  I took the frame
> and all the bees on it, and placed it in the observation hive.  I had an
old
> queen from a hive I just requeened that I was going to use.
Unfortunately,
> she had been removed from her hive a day and a half before and died in her
> cage shortly after placing her in the observation hive.  The frame of
brood
> I used had some eggs in it so I decided to see if they would raise a new
> queen as I thought this would be wonderful to watch.  Now (2 days later),
> the larva are dying and turning black.  I'm wondering if this is a symptom
> of chilled brood?  I brought the hive inside to an air conditioned house
> from 90+ degree weather outside.  Is it possible that I didn't get enough
> workers in the hive to properly take care of the brood?  Is it safe to
> return this frame to the original hive with brood dying?  Does anybody
have
> any good instructions on how to properly start a flourishing observation
> hive?
> Any and help would be appreciated...
>
>




Article 25924 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Thomas S. Allen" <tsallen@mediaone.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <c-0607000724420001@216.80.155.178> <3964CEB2.A41183C5@riverace.com>
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Steve,

I had heard that while queens from supercede can be superior producers, they
often lack the qualities, particularly gentleness, of the former queen if
she was hybrid. Aren't all purchased queens hybrid? My one colony and five
years experience have not given me first hand experience on that one. I'll
check this out in my queenless observation hive that I just started.

I did have really mean bees this year and requeen with a Russian as a
measure against Veroa mites.....something about their grooming habits. They
are as calm as ever, now. I even introduced a small swarm, less queen, with
the one sheet of newspaper technique.

Tom


"Steve Huston" <shuston@riverace.com> wrote in message
news:3964CEB2.A41183C5@riverace.com...
> C wrote:
> >
> > Greetings
> >
> > I am a first year bee keeper, and started two hives this spring.
> >
> > One hive is still small and seems weak but the bees are friendly and non
> > aggressive. On the other hand the other hive is strong appears healthy
has
> > drawn out almost all frames in the brood box, but they are pissed off
> > every time I as much as remove the top cover of the hive.
>
> Were they always this way?  Or did they suddenly start?
>
> Check to see if there is another explanation for them being mean - do
> they have mites? Are skunks bothering them every night? Is there a good,
> laying queen there?
>
> I had one hive which superceded its queen this past spring - they were a
> mean bunch too while there was a virgin queen. As soon as the queen was
> mated and got down to business, the hive turned gentle again.
>
> If they were always mean, and your queen is healthy (good brood pattern)
> and you have no other explanation, you could try to requeen. But be sure
> there's no virgin queen in there, or they'll kill any queen you try to
> give them.
>
> -Steve
>
> --
> Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
> Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
> ACE Kits, Support, Consulting             (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
> Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html




Article 25925 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Biased Media Coverage
Date: 8 Jul 2000 08:43:38 -0400
Organization: Self-Organized.      Dig that.
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In article <c-0807000526050001@dialup53.tnnas2.usit.net>, C <c@usit.net> wrote:
>Barry
>
>Please you must understand that the news media does not have to tell the
>truth, but only something that will sell news. 
>

Yes and that they aren't biologists by any means.

To say that the _Cephalcia_ spp. and honey bees are "cousins" is like saying
that humans and Gerbils are cousins.

Both are in the same order: Hymenoptera, but the the pests your "erudite"
newspaper are glorifying, the Web-spinning and Leaf-Rolling Sawflies, are about
as distantly related as Apples are to Oranges. Seriously.

You can reference:
Borror, Triplehorn and Johnson, _An Introduction to the Study of Insects_,
6th edition, 1989, Saunders College Publishing, ISBN: 0-03-025397-7

Feel free to use this if you want to send it to them. Maybe they might have
consulted an entomologist first?
:-)
Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein
adamf@radix.net
http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf


Article 25926 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Biased Media Coverage
Date: 8 Jul 2000 08:53:40 -0400
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In article <8k77lq$did$1@saltmine.radix.net>,
Adam Finkelstein <adamf@radix.net> wrote:

>To say that the _Cephalcia_ spp. and honey bees are "cousins" is like saying
>that humans and Gerbils are cousins.

Poor analogy, sorry.
How about: Humans and Marmosets.

Funny though, within the class Insecta, divergence and taxonomic hierarchy
are much more severe and intense than in the class Mammalia (where Humans and
Mormosets reside). Since there are more insect species than all other species
on earth combined, making analogous geneological comparisons becomes "rough"
at best. Ask your newspaper if they keyed out the two hymenopterans: it would
be interesting to hear their response.

;)
Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein
adamf@radix.net
http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf


Article 25927 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Teri Bachus" <bachmoz@aug.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Biased Media Coverage
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 09:31:42 -0400
Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com
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Lab to Determine if Va. Bees Are Killer Swarm

By Steven Ginsberg
Washington Post Staff Writer
Saturday , July 8, 2000 ; B02

To Frank, the goat, they were killers for sure.

But Eric Day, a scientist, must approach the issue differently. He is trying
to figure out if the swarm that stung Frank to death
Wednesday in Southwest Virginia consisted of Africanized honeybees, more
commonly known as "killer bees."

James Downey, Frank's owner and a former beekeeper who was stung more than
35 times by the swarm, thinks it's a
distinction without a difference.

"They killed some goat, a powerful old goat," Downey said yesterday. "I
don't know how much more killer they got to be."

Day, however, said it is probable the swarm that killed Frank and attacked
several people was merely an extremely agitated
group of honeybees.

"I wouldn't expect to find Africanized bees at all," said Day, manager of
the insect identification lab at the Virginia Tech
Extension Service. "The way those bees were handled there, it's not out of
their realm. It was a cloudy, rainy day and that
makes bees more aggressive."

But he is checking, because a killer swarm could pose a threat to the
community and would be an alarming shift in the
migration pattern of the bees.

Africanized bees are slightly smaller than other bees, though they look
virtually identical. They are extremely belligerent and, in
some cases, kill humans and animals when provoked. They are descended from
African bees imported to Brazil and
accidentally released in 1957. Since then, they have been migrating north
and in the last decade have been found in Texas,
Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada and California.

Day said it was extremely unlikely they would make the jump to Virginia. His
lab won't know for certain until next week.

Whether Africanized bees or not, though, the bees livened up the lives of
Downey, his wife, Nannie, a handful of police, fire
and rescue personnel and a construction crew, one of whom, for all anyone
knows, may still be fleeing the swarm.

The bees got Downey's goat after he tied Frank near a briar patch in the
back of his house in Low Moor. He wanted the goat
to eat there but didn't know the briar patch was home to about 2,000 bees,
and they attacked the goat.

Alerted by a construction crew working on his house, Downey darted to
Frank's rescue--and became a target himself. One of
the construction workers tried to help by throwing a cooler of water on
Downey before being chased away by the bees.
Downey hasn't seen or heard from him since.

"The last time I seen him, he was running around the side of the house with
the bees running after him," Downey recalled. "That
man, you could send him to the Olympics the way he was moving. I don't know
when he'll ever come back."

The former beekeeper then ran into the house, bringing along a few bees that
stung his wife. He grabbed a protective hood, a
heavy winter coat and a pair of gloves before racing back outside to help
Frank. Meanwhile, his wife called the police.

Within minutes, police and fire and rescue personnel arrived, separating the
goat and Downey from the swarm some 20
minutes after the ordeal began.

"It just looked like a cloud coming toward me," Downey said. "If it hadn't
been for the fire company, I reckon they would
have killed me."

The Downeys and two police officers were taken to the hospital and released.
The goat, which was covered with stingers on
its ears and mouth, climbed a hill and later died.

"Lord, I'll tell you, I ain't never seen nothing like that," Downey said.

                                © 2000 The Washington Post Company






Article 25928 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Biased Media Coverage
Date: 8 Jul 2000 09:36:49 -0400
Organization: Self-Organized.      Dig that.
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Wow. That's the most action Eric Day has had in years! Where was Dr. Fell?
No comment?

I bet they fed them old New River Valley bees gunpwder to make 'em mean.
Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein
adamf@radix.net
http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf


Article 25929 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Peter Bennell" <Peter.Bennell@btinternet.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Bee-go
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I have seen some references to this.  Can anyone tell me what it is and
where to get some?

Thanks




Article 25930 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "George Styer" <gstyLer@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Just scrape them, no need to get them super clean or re-coat them with wax.
There will be residual wax from the scraping. All you need to do is remove
their "pattern" and let them start again. I suppose if you feel you need to
re-wax them you could rub them with a block of wax after you scrape them and
quickly pass over them with a propane torch. I can;t see how you would be
able to keep the wax molten long enough to spray it.

--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To respond via email, get the "L" out of there


"Billy Y. Smart II" <Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com> wrote in message
news:3965EE9A.8EF9176@nospam.boeing.com...
> Group,
>
> Remember me? I'm the poster who reported lots of burr comb being built
> on some black perco frames that I had used in a bait hive. Anyway, I am
> in the process of slowly working those braced combs out of the hive. I'm
> not ready to give up on those frames though. Eventually I'm going to
> have the bees clean the combs out, scrape the combs off the frames and I
> want to recycle the frames and try it again.
>
> How do I do this? Can I melt the wax and spray in on the plasic with a
> sprayer? Is there a better way?
>
> --
> Billy Y. Smart II
> /* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
> /*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
> /*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */
>
>
>




Article 25931 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: Why@me.com (SomeOne)
Subject: Re: Bee-go
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In article <20000709090249.04648.00002633@ng-fj1.aol.com>, bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) wrote:
>> You can get it from any of the bee catalogs if you can't get it at your 
>>regular dealer. Bee-Go and Honey Robber are the same chemical except Honey 
>>Robber adds a bit of a cherry smell added to it to make it nicer for humans.
>> 
>>
> I think they call it liquid Smoke too. They works. I remove super with full of
>honey and took another lid with a filter cloth( after spray Bee-go on it) on
>the inside and lay it up aging the super, Lord behold, The bees jump out other
>side like craze and fast as it can be.They really hate that smell.
>Spray it at the shop before you take it at the site that way you won't spill
>any inside your hive.
>Brushy Mountain have it for $9.25 per pint.
 
 No Liquid Smoke is a different product. It is designed to mimic the smell of 
smoke and they add wintergreen oil to it claiming it calms the bees so you can 
work with them.
 I had some and it was 'ok' . I still prefer my smoker, but if I was in a real 
fire prone area I might consider it as a sub. 


Article 25932 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: Why@me.com (SomeOne)
Subject: Re: Extracting Honey
References: <eYmvSPU6$GA.292@cpmsnbbsa09>
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In article <eYmvSPU6$GA.292@cpmsnbbsa09>, "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote:
>Hi,
>I was wondering if anyone can offer advice for extracting honey, without
>purchasing one of the (very expensive) extractors.  I would like to find a way
>to get the honey off the frame without completely destroying the comb, so the
>bees have to start from scratch rebuilding the comb too (if this is possible).
>I tried scraping the caps off, and then laying the frame on a cookie sheet in
>a very barely warm oven, but the whole comb fell off the foundation (plastic
>foundation).  I've only kept bees for three years, mostly for pollination, but
>would like to get a little honey.  The extractors I've seen are just so
>expensive!  Thanks for any advice.
>
>Niki
>
 Sorry Niki, but without destrying the comb there really isn't a good way to 
get it all out.
 I can understand not wishing to spend the money, but even Dadant has a small 
extractor for less than $100. 
 


Article 25933 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: CAIR <cair1@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Beginner questions
Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 19:10:43 GMT
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Hello

I went to check my hive today one week after finding empty queen supercedure cells and many bees but no brood. This time I found
only a few capped drone cells. One of these cells was hatching and I noticed a small round reddish insect emerge from the cell with the
drone. Is this a mite, and what should I do?

I also noticed that some cells had a milky substance, not larvae, in the bottom. Is this another disease?

And I also noticed some cells had a brownish (I am color-blind) substance at the bottom.

Do I re-queen, treat for mites or foulbrood, or what?


Article 25934 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: James Kilty <honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Beekeeping articles wanted please ....
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 00:57:54 +0100
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In article <8k2rl5$h55$1@news7.svr.pol.co.uk>, Magic Kent <bazz@andover1
11.freeserve.co.uk> writes
>andover2000.net is a non-profit making hobbies website. We try to include as
>wide a range of subjects as is possible and it was suggested that we include
>bee keeping while UK still has some !. Our bee population got hit by a mite
>apparently and is / was in dire straits.
Not really. Rumours about its death or difficulties are much
exaggerated. The mite is easy to control as there are many successful
approaches. The mite has been evident in Europe since the 30's and in
America since the 80's only arriving here in the 90's. So almost
everyone has it. Your posting is way off.

However, there is so much that could be said, it would be helpful if you
would be more precise. I attach the text going to press soon for our
next edition to show you at least what I do. I also attach an earlier
edition. Many local associations have a newsletter which includes
articles. Some only give events and reports on events with few articles.
Beekeepers are always exhorted to join a local association, most of
which are affiliated to the British Beekeepers Association. There is
even an exchange scheme for Newsletters between editors who then select
from contributing members' publications. Individual non-members can also
join the Central Association of Beekeepers. There are huge advantages
from so doing: courses, early knowledge of developments or new problems
and their solutions in beekeeping, bulk purchase schemes, apiary
meetings and talks, the network of willing helpers for newcomers and
non-newcomers and so it goes on.

Those who want to stay out of this and work independently are hardly
likely to look for a hobby web-site, especially given there are Usenet
groups such as this one, both International and UK, and excellent
beekeeping web-sites. Sorry if that seems like a wet blanket but most
Association members are hobbyists. Even with 50-odd hives, and though I
could join the Bee Farmers Association, I am still a hobbyist, albeit on
a much larger scale than most hobbyists.

A different idea might be thoughts for non-beekeepers or those beginning
to think about it or who might think about it if there was a basic
introductory set of articles to browse or accidentally stumble on. They
might range from "what I get out of beekeeping" to " gardening and
bees", "bees and the countryside", "honeybees, no longer truly a wild
species" and "thinking about beekeeping". BBKA leaflets could be a
useful source.

A posting to this effect might get some response.

-- 
James Kilty Ph.D.
phone/fax 01736 850373
Honey Mountain - selling honey locally
Beekeeper and Bee Centre Manager at the Trevarno Estate and Gardens
Librarian, Newsletter Editor and Basic Course Manager for the West Cornwall BKA


Article 25935 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Rob O'Hara" <rohara@nowonline.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: check-mite
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 19:57:09 -0400
Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com
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Hello all

Can someone please send me directions for use of check-mite
strips. I somehow misplaced them and they are not on the pkgs.

Bees in NE Ohio building up nicely this year. We had an abundance of rain,
which slowed down the hay-making but the bees made a nice crop of honey off
the uncut fields!  The weather hurt some and helped others.

If you are interested in beekeeping the Geauga County Beekeepers
Association would love to see you at their picnic July 16, 2000 at
Thompson's Ledges Park in NE Geauga County. 12:00 noon.

Thankyou


--
Rob O'Hara
rohara98@yahoo.com
4th Year ... 5 Hives
3rd String Hobbiest
Trying To Grow




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From: "Robert Talk" <rgtalk@hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: A beginner's top bar hive experiences
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This is a one-time post to annonce my web site devoted to keeping bees in a
top bar hive (TBH) in my backyard.

Please see it at http://beetalk.tripod.com

Please sign our guest book and leave us your comments.

Thanks,
Robert - a beeginner





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From: "Tom Allen" <tsallen@mediaone.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <eYmvSPU6$GA.292@cpmsnbbsa09>
Subject: Re: Extracting Honey
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Niki,

I found plans for a 20 frame extractor that look cool. A kit is available
for $20 from honeyhouse@mediaone.net, not including materials. Check it out
at http://www.beesource.com/plans/extractor_20.htm. You'll need Adobe
Acrobat to see/print the plans.

Tom

"J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
news:eYmvSPU6$GA.292@cpmsnbbsa09...
> Hi,
> I was wondering if anyone can offer advice for extracting honey, without
> purchasing one of the (very expensive) extractors.  I would like to find a
way
> to get the honey off the frame without completely destroying the comb, so
the
> bees have to start from scratch rebuilding the comb too (if this is
possible).
> I tried scraping the caps off, and then laying the frame on a cookie sheet
in
> a very barely warm oven, but the whole comb fell off the foundation
(plastic
> foundation).  I've only kept bees for three years, mostly for pollination,
but
> would like to get a little honey.  The extractors I've seen are just so
> expensive!  Thanks for any advice.
>
> Niki
>
> --
>
>
> J & N F.
>
> Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
>
>
>




Article 25938 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: HiStretch@GoStretch.com (Charles "Stretch" Ledford)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: mad bees
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:13:05 -0600
Organization: STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY
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I put in a swarm this spring, and I couldn't believe how aggressive the
bees continued to be, even several weeks after they were hived.  I would
regularly get stung doing the most simple manipulations of the hive.

After finding some queen cells and a patchy egg-laying pattern, I decided
to re-queen.  The change in the bees' mood was nearly immediate and quite
dramatic.  It's been a couple of weeks now and I'm opening up the hive in
running shorts and a tee shirt with no problems at all.

-- 
Charles "Stretch" Ledford
STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY
"North America and the Entire World"
http://www.GoStretch.com


Article 25939 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Billy Y. Smart II" <Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com>
Subject: Does age matter on plastic foundation?
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Group,

I purchased some used equipment from a individual that had been stored
in a barn for five years. The boxes and frames are in excellent shape
and have never been used in the field. The frames though had duraguilt
foundation inserted in them. During a recent flow I put several of these
boxes on, both deeps and supers, and have had dissapointing results to
say the least. None of the foundation was even touched in 3 of the 4
hives I had put boxes on. The one that did draw was a swarm hive working
on it's second deep and then it drew out only three frames over three
weeks. In one of the hives I supered with the duragilt, the queen
finally gave up on me and swarmed leaving not even a single cell drawn
in the super.

I have since installed wired beeswax foundation and all hives are
drawing it out really well. In fact I'll be taking some supers off this
weekend after only two weeks. This leads me to think that it is the
foundation that is the problem.

I wonder if my failure here was due to the age of the foundation. This
stuff was five years old, stored in a barn with temperatures exceeding
100 deg. in the summer months. They were covered well though, not even
any dust on them. Could age be the reason? Does beeswax lose it's
"juice" after a while?

--
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */





Article 25940 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Lowell and Diane Hutchison" <hutchiso@ccp.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: spun honey
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Can anyone give me the directions to produce spun or "cremed" honey?  I know
that you seed it with some spun honey and hold at cool temperature, but that
is all I know.  Thanks for the help.
hutchiso@ccp.com




Article 25941 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "mbelluso" <mbelluso@megsinet.com>
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Subject: queen raising
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Hoping that some in the group might share ideas or info related to raising
your own queens.  I have just started two hives this year, about one hour
south of Chicago, and am thinking of next season.  Perhaps too soon based on
experience, but I like to do my homework before I start a new project.  I'm
not planning on going commercial, sideliner probably at best.  Dadant, Mann
Lake, Jenter are a few systems currently on the market that I have seen
(catalogue only).  What works for you and why do you like it? Other systems
or suggestions? Any information you could pass along would be greatly
appreciated.           Thanks.  mb :-)

ymbelluso@yahoo.com




Article 25942 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Russian Queens--Any success stories with Varroa?
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Fellow Beekeepers:

I was wondering if any of you have tried the new Russian queens and if
you have noticed any improvement with your mite populations compared to
your other non russian hives.

Thanks,
Dale


Article 25943 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Karyn Plank" <kplank@pacbell.net>
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Subject: Question About Hive & Queen Excluder
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This is my first year keeping bees.  I have a hive derived from a captured
swarm in two brood boxes.  About 2 or 3 weeks ago, I added a medium super
with a queen excluder between the bottom two brood boxes and the new honey
super.

When I checked the hive about 5 days ago, there were very few bees in the
new super and they weren't doing much except mulling around.  Checking
today, I found about twice as many bees in there  (still only about
100-200?), but they two don't seem to be doing much except hanging out.
To date, the bees have not drawn any comb in the new box.

Is this because 1)  they can't fit well through the bars of the queen
excluder (about 1/4" from center of each bar to the next, or about 3/16"
actual space between bars), OR

2)  they're waiting until they finish drawing out all the comb in the bottom
two boxes (admittedly, there were still about 2 untouched frames in the top
brood box when I added the new honey super on top), OR

3)  something else?

Any suggestions for this rookie?  I just removed the queen excluder because
I wanted to measure the width of the bars.  Now what?  Should I put it back
and be patient?

Thanks for your advice.
Karyn




Article 25944 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter)
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Subject: Re: Does age matter on plastic foundation?
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It has been my experiance that even new duragilt just plain sucks in comparison
to wax,permadent,rite cell or pierco.
Perhaps they have much invested in it's production or perhaps they don't care.


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


Article 25946 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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I don't believe that age matters much ... as long as it is not completely
decomposed it's probably fine.
I too have had questionable luck with duraguilt.  I put it in a second hive
body and the bees took no interest in it for a long time.  I placed a super
on top of that with drawn comb already in it. Shortly after that, I
discovered the bees had come up into the second hive body, drawn almost all
of the duraguilt, and have filled better than half with honey.  I'm not sure
if it is the type of foundation that matters to them or if it just in the
timing and presentation?  I must say though, that once they did finally draw
it out, it is beautiful! Very even and uniform!  I've heard from another guy
I know, that his bees drew out duraguilt very uneven and ugly.  I think a
lot more real research would have to be done in order to say good or bad
about the foundations.  From what I'm hearing, it just depends on the bees.
It seems they all have different likes and dislikes?
It also seems to me, so far anyway, that the bees don't like the plasticell.
I put on a super filled with alternating drawn comb and plasticell
foundation.  The bees have completely filled and capped the frames with
drawn comb and have left the plasticell untouched. Even with it sandwiched
between the others, they have ignored it like it wasn't even there!
I suspect, that once you get the bees to draw out the foundation, that they
will show little preference for any one of them. But, until that happens,
they definately seem to like some foundations over others.  It also seems
that after hearing from different people, different colonies (races?) will
prefer different foundations.
It all seems kind of "luck of the draw" to me at this point.




Article 25947 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Tom <spec.leisNOspSPAM@btinternet.com.invalid>
Subject: newish beekeeper needs advice on comb please
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After extracting honey is it a good idea to cut the comb
back level with the frames to encourage a slightly neater
drawing of comb or will it just be drawn out mis-shapen
again this year? This is mostly on second year comb and is
making uncapping untidy, any thoughts please?


* Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful


Article 25948 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Sounds like they just don't need the space yet. They will go through the QX
when they need to but will be more reluctant to go to foundation. You can
leave the QX off and see if that makes a difference but once they start to
draw it, if the queen goes up she will lay in even the most shallow cells.
If you are trying for comb honey, this will be disastrous. You could also
try to move a frame of brood above the QX but if your brood boxes are deeps
you will have some adjusting to do to make it fit in the medium (you can use
a 3" feeder ring to effectively turn the medium into a deep). If you do put
the QX back on make sure there is an entrance above the QX. You can either
cut a slot in the rim of the QX if it is wood-bound, bore a hole in the
super or simply stagger the super.

And yes, be patient.

--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there


"Karyn Plank" <kplank@pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:mnpa5.21$Me7.31989@news.pacbell.net...
> This is my first year keeping bees.  I have a hive derived from a captured
> swarm in two brood boxes.  About 2 or 3 weeks ago, I added a medium super
> with a queen excluder between the bottom two brood boxes and the new honey
> super.
>
> When I checked the hive about 5 days ago, there were very few bees in the
> new super and they weren't doing much except mulling around.  Checking
> today, I found about twice as many bees in there  (still only about
> 100-200?), but they two don't seem to be doing much except hanging out.
> To date, the bees have not drawn any comb in the new box.
>
> Is this because 1)  they can't fit well through the bars of the queen
> excluder (about 1/4" from center of each bar to the next, or about 3/16"
> actual space between bars), OR
>
> 2)  they're waiting until they finish drawing out all the comb in the
bottom
> two boxes (admittedly, there were still about 2 untouched frames in the
top
> brood box when I added the new honey super on top), OR
>
> 3)  something else?
>
> Any suggestions for this rookie?  I just removed the queen excluder
because
> I wanted to measure the width of the bars.  Now what?  Should I put it
back
> and be patient?
>
> Thanks for your advice.
> Karyn
>
>




Article 25949 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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I just return them and let the bees worry about the engineering. They always
seem to get it right and some of it looks pretty bad after extracting,
especially those that get scratched in places.

--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there


"Tom" <spec.leisNOspSPAM@btinternet.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:288be9c4.794527e5@usw-ex0109-068.remarq.com...
> After extracting honey is it a good idea to cut the comb
> back level with the frames to encourage a slightly neater
> drawing of comb or will it just be drawn out mis-shapen
> again this year? This is mostly on second year comb and is
> making uncapping untidy, any thoughts please?
>
>
> * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find
related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is
Beautiful




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Why is it important to have an entrance above the qx???


George Styer <gstyLer@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:lsqa5.3800$bR6.305507@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> Sounds like they just don't need the space yet. They will go through the
QX
> when they need to but will be more reluctant to go to foundation. You can
> leave the QX off and see if that makes a difference but once they start to
> draw it, if the queen goes up she will lay in even the most shallow cells.
> If you are trying for comb honey, this will be disastrous. You could also
> try to move a frame of brood above the QX but if your brood boxes are
deeps
> you will have some adjusting to do to make it fit in the medium (you can
use
> a 3" feeder ring to effectively turn the medium into a deep). If you do
put
> the QX back on make sure there is an entrance above the QX. You can either
> cut a slot in the rim of the QX if it is wood-bound, bore a hole in the
> super or simply stagger the super.
>
> And yes, be patient.
>
> --
> Geo
> Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
> "Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
> gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
> To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there
>
>
> "Karyn Plank" <kplank@pacbell.net> wrote in message
> news:mnpa5.21$Me7.31989@news.pacbell.net...
> > This is my first year keeping bees.  I have a hive derived from a
captured
> > swarm in two brood boxes.  About 2 or 3 weeks ago, I added a medium
super
> > with a queen excluder between the bottom two brood boxes and the new
honey
> > super.
> >
> > When I checked the hive about 5 days ago, there were very few bees in
the
> > new super and they weren't doing much except mulling around.  Checking
> > today, I found about twice as many bees in there  (still only about
> > 100-200?), but they two don't seem to be doing much except hanging out.
> > To date, the bees have not drawn any comb in the new box.
> >
> > Is this because 1)  they can't fit well through the bars of the queen
> > excluder (about 1/4" from center of each bar to the next, or about 3/16"
> > actual space between bars), OR
> >
> > 2)  they're waiting until they finish drawing out all the comb in the
> bottom
> > two boxes (admittedly, there were still about 2 untouched frames in the
> top
> > brood box when I added the new honey super on top), OR
> >
> > 3)  something else?
> >
> > Any suggestions for this rookie?  I just removed the queen excluder
> because
> > I wanted to measure the width of the bars.  Now what?  Should I put it
> back
> > and be patient?
> >
> > Thanks for your advice.
> > Karyn
> >
> >
>
>




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From: Pete <hrogers@arkansas.net>
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Subject: Re: newish beekeeper needs advice on comb please
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>  Tom wrote:
> After extracting honey is it a good idea to cut the comb
> back level with the frames to encourage a slightly neater
> drawing of comb or will it just be drawn out mis-shapen
> again this year?
********************************************************

Howdy Tom --

  If you rest your uncapping knife against the top bar it will leave
the combs about equal thickness.  Then use 9 frames so the bees will
make the combs thicker next time.  Ths makes uncapping much easier.

       Pete

So much to learn - So little time !
**************************************************


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 25952 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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> I went to check my hive today one week after finding empty queen
supercedure cells and many bees but no brood. This time I found
> only a few capped drone cells. One of these cells was hatching and I
noticed a small round reddish insect emerge from the cell with the
> drone. Is this a mite, and what should I do?

Yes, that sounds like the varroa mite which does, incidently, like drone
cells over worker.

> I also noticed that some cells had a milky substance, not larvae, in the
bottom. Is this another disease?

Milky substance is more than likely just royal jelly ... normal.

> And I also noticed some cells had a brownish (I am color-blind) substance
at the bottom.

May have just been thin royal jelly in the bottom of a brown cell, still
probably nothing to worry about.

> Do I re-queen, treat for mites or foulbrood, or what?

Are drone cells all that you found? No eggs, larva or capped worker brood?
If you have no eggs or larva at all, you probably have no queen.  Have you
found your queen?
It sounds like you should probably seek the advice of an experienced
beekeeper in your area, who can come and look and show you what he/she sees.
If they are making honey that you wish to keep, they should probably not be
drugged, but if the mites are bad, you may want to forgo honey collection
and save your bees.
I would also suggest that you are serious about caring for your bees, find
some compehensive books about bees and read them cover to cover.  There is a
wealth of information to be had.




Article 25953 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "George Styer" <gstyLer@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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The entrance above the QX will not get them to draw the foundation any
faster, but once it is drawn or when supering with drawn comb the field bees
will return directly to the super(s) without having to pass through the QX.
--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there


"Charles W." <charlesw@asminc.net> wrote in message
news:8Hqa5.2796$wE2.6746@dfw-read.news.verio.net...
> Why is it important to have an entrance above the qx???
>
>
> George Styer <gstyLer@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> news:lsqa5.3800$bR6.305507@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > Sounds like they just don't need the space yet. They will go through the
> QX
> > when they need to but will be more reluctant to go to foundation. You
can
> > leave the QX off and see if that makes a difference but once they start
to
> > draw it, if the queen goes up she will lay in even the most shallow
cells.
> > If you are trying for comb honey, this will be disastrous. You could
also
> > try to move a frame of brood above the QX but if your brood boxes are
> deeps
> > you will have some adjusting to do to make it fit in the medium (you can
> use
> > a 3" feeder ring to effectively turn the medium into a deep). If you do
> put
> > the QX back on make sure there is an entrance above the QX. You can
either
> > cut a slot in the rim of the QX if it is wood-bound, bore a hole in the
> > super or simply stagger the super.
> >
> > And yes, be patient.
> >
> > --
> > Geo
> > Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
> > "Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
> > gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
> > To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there
> >
> >
> > "Karyn Plank" <kplank@pacbell.net> wrote in message
> > news:mnpa5.21$Me7.31989@news.pacbell.net...
> > > This is my first year keeping bees.  I have a hive derived from a
> captured
> > > swarm in two brood boxes.  About 2 or 3 weeks ago, I added a medium
> super
> > > with a queen excluder between the bottom two brood boxes and the new
> honey
> > > super.
> > >
> > > When I checked the hive about 5 days ago, there were very few bees in
> the
> > > new super and they weren't doing much except mulling around.  Checking
> > > today, I found about twice as many bees in there  (still only about
> > > 100-200?), but they two don't seem to be doing much except hanging
out.
> > > To date, the bees have not drawn any comb in the new box.
> > >
> > > Is this because 1)  they can't fit well through the bars of the queen
> > > excluder (about 1/4" from center of each bar to the next, or about
3/16"
> > > actual space between bars), OR
> > >
> > > 2)  they're waiting until they finish drawing out all the comb in the
> > bottom
> > > two boxes (admittedly, there were still about 2 untouched frames in
the
> > top
> > > brood box when I added the new honey super on top), OR
> > >
> > > 3)  something else?
> > >
> > > Any suggestions for this rookie?  I just removed the queen excluder
> > because
> > > I wanted to measure the width of the bars.  Now what?  Should I put it
> > back
> > > and be patient?
> > >
> > > Thanks for your advice.
> > > Karyn
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>




Article 25954 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com>
References: <eYmvSPU6$GA.292@cpmsnbbsa09>
Subject: Re: Extracting Honey
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Thanks to everyone who has offered suggestions (on group & email).  I didn't
realize other bee keepers would do extracting & for someone on a tiny scale
like myself, that is probably my best bet, at least for now.  I am going to
look into the other options as well.

As you have all been so very helpful, maybe some of you can give me some tips
on how you handle the frames of honey, etc. for storage or other needs.  I
find it difficult to know just what to do with them so as not to damage the
comb.  We took some out some time ago & since I cannot extract them, I decided
to freeze them to save for the bees (just in case) as suggested in one of the
books I read.  When working at the hive, I general stack frames standing
upright against each other on the upside down outer cover.  When it came to
freezing them, I was at a loss.  If you lay them on their side, the cells get
smushed, it is difficult to stack them without them sticking together or
damaging the wax.  and I had to piece together a couple cardboard boxes  to
end up with something large enough to set them in.  And as one person
mentioned, sticky honey leaking around the kitchen (or in the freezer) can
lead to marital discord!  Any tips & hints to make handling frames of honey a
little easier from you with more experience?

Niki

--


J & N F.

Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.




Article 25955 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: HiStretch@GoStretch.com (Charles "Stretch" Ledford)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Question About Hive & Queen Excluder
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:16:08 -0600
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In article <lsqa5.3800$bR6.305507@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
"George Styer" <gstyLer@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

If you do put
> the QX back on make sure there is an entrance above the QX. You can either
> cut a slot in the rim of the QX if it is wood-bound, bore a hole in the
> super or simply stagger the super.
> 


This is the first time I've heard that a QX needs an entrance above it. 
Wot's, ... uh the deal?

-- 
Charles "Stretch" Ledford
STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY
"North America and the Entire World"
http://www.GoStretch.com


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From: HiStretch@GoStretch.com (Charles "Stretch" Ledford)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Question About Hive & Queen Excluder
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:17:35 -0600
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In article <mnpa5.21$Me7.31989@news.pacbell.net>, "Karyn Plank"
<kplank@pacbell.net> wrote:

> Any suggestions for this rookie?  I just removed the queen excluder because
> I wanted to measure the width of the bars.  Now what?  Should I put it back
> and be patient?

What kind of foundation do you have in the honey super?  Have you tried
speading a bit of honey on the foundation, as an enticement for the girls
to get their butts up there?

-- 
Charles "Stretch" Ledford
STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY
"North America and the Entire World"
http://www.GoStretch.com


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From: "Karyn Plank" <kplank@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <mnpa5.21$Me7.31989@news.pacbell.net> <HiStretch-1007001917350001@pool-207-205-181-246.phnx.grid.net> <wnxa5.110$p07.118351@news.pacbell.net>
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Oops -- my big mistake.  I'm using Plasticell foundation not Duragilt. Sorry
for the confusion.

Karyn the obviously rookie beekeeper
(Help me get good at this, guys!)


"Karyn Plank" <kplank@pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:wnxa5.110$p07.118351@news.pacbell.net...
> The foundation is Duragilt.  I like the idea of spreading a little honey
on
> the foundation to get the ball rolling.  I'll give it a try.
>
> Karyn
>
>
> "Charles "Stretch" Ledford" <HiStretch@GoStretch.com> wrote in message
> news:HiStretch-1007001917350001@pool-207-205-181-246.phnx.grid.net...
> > In article <mnpa5.21$Me7.31989@news.pacbell.net>, "Karyn Plank"
> > <kplank@pacbell.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Any suggestions for this rookie?  I just removed the queen excluder
> because
> > > I wanted to measure the width of the bars.  Now what?  Should I put it
> back
> > > and be patient?
> >
> > What kind of foundation do you have in the honey super?  Have you tried
> > speading a bit of honey on the foundation, as an enticement for the
girls
> > to get their butts up there?
> >
> > --
> > Charles "Stretch" Ledford
> > STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY
> > "North America and the Entire World"
> > http://www.GoStretch.com
> >
>
>
>




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The foundation is Duragilt.  I like the idea of spreading a little honey on
the foundation to get the ball rolling.  I'll give it a try.

Karyn


"Charles "Stretch" Ledford" <HiStretch@GoStretch.com> wrote in message
news:HiStretch-1007001917350001@pool-207-205-181-246.phnx.grid.net...
> In article <mnpa5.21$Me7.31989@news.pacbell.net>, "Karyn Plank"
> <kplank@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
> > Any suggestions for this rookie?  I just removed the queen excluder
because
> > I wanted to measure the width of the bars.  Now what?  Should I put it
back
> > and be patient?
>
> What kind of foundation do you have in the honey super?  Have you tried
> speading a bit of honey on the foundation, as an enticement for the girls
> to get their butts up there?
>
> --
> Charles "Stretch" Ledford
> STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY
> "North America and the Entire World"
> http://www.GoStretch.com
>




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From: hamilton@pbssite.com (Dave Hamilton)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: queen raising
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If you search DejaNews you will see a couple methods out-lined and
discussed about a month ago.  One just labeled as "Bob's" method would
work very well for a small number.

The simplest way I have tried is from a University of Nebraska
visiting scholar who raises royal jelly in Egypt.  He gets excellent
numbers of queen cells.  This is the third method I have tried and it
works the best for me.

Mahmoud's method
Take a 2 brood box strong hive and remove the queen and 3 frames of
brood to a nuc box.  You have 20 frames total.

In the bottom box put a division board feeder and one or two frames of
pollen .. no brood.  This box is empty except for these two frames and
the feeder.  Fill the feeder (he mentioned once that sometimes he puts
2 feeders in this box).

Shake all the bees from the other 15 frames into this bottom box.   It
is now boiling with bees with nothing to do, but raise queen cells.

Give the 15 bee-less frames you shook the bees off of, to another
colony to tend.

Graft your cells as in all methods and put the graft frame into the
single box with all the bees. 

Count days and remove the queen cells after 10-11 days. 

 You can then return the queen/nuc and 15 frames to this hive to put
it back into production or you can use it for a second round of
grafting.





 

On Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:56:55 -0500, "mbelluso" <mbelluso@megsinet.com>
wrote:

>Hoping that some in the group might share ideas or info related to raising
>your own queens.  I have just started two hives this year, about one hour
>south of Chicago, and am thinking of next season.  Perhaps too soon based on
>experience, but I like to do my homework before I start a new project.  I'm
>not planning on going commercial, sideliner probably at best.  Dadant, Mann
>Lake, Jenter are a few systems currently on the market that I have seen
>(catalogue only).  What works for you and why do you like it? Other systems
>or suggestions? Any information you could pass along would be greatly
>appreciated.           Thanks.  mb :-)
>
>ymbelluso@yahoo.com
>
>





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From: "we-c" <engcal@snip.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Does age matter on plastic foundation?
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 10:33:39 -0400
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I was at a bee course recently at a local agricultural college, and both the
professor and a local professional beekeeper recommended plasticell, and
very highly at that. But all three of the course participants who had tried
plasticell (all of them relatively experienced keepers, but not
"professionals") had NO success with it. One woman had five hives with mixed
plasticell/wax foundation frames, and her bees had completely ignored the
plasticell over two seasons, while filling the wax frames. In every case the
bees were Italians.

I don't know about plasticell, I just know that wax foundations seem right
for me. They even smell right.

BC






Article 25961 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "steve hird" <hird@hp.com.no>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: I need bees
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 11:41:00 -0600
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Well I had hundreds of pounds of honey and the hives where booming
so of coarse a bear came along and cllimbed a five foot fence and
ate my honey and killed the bees.
I am not motivated to start from scratch anyone know of where I can get bees
in the Northern Colorado, Southern Wyoming area.
Thanks ...
   Steve Hird




Article 25962 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Charlie Kroeger <ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Foundation support pins
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I use them but buy them from Kelly, more for less.  I have this simple
system..I use the split bottom bars type of frame. (also Kelly) I clip off the
annoying wire 'hook' (for removable top bar 'wedges') flush with the
foundation making a 'flat' sheet, with no protruding wires; i then 'drop in'
the foundation from the bottom and hold it in place with the split pins.  I
also have a small pre drilled hole in the middle of the two bottom bars.  I
put a one inch #4 phillips pan head screw there to securely hold the
foundation between the split bars and let the split pins hold it from the
sides. I let the 'top' stay loose in the groove.  It might seem that this is
pretty fragile, but if the bees go on and fill in the foundation as they are
want to do, I've never had a 'structural' failure yet.  I even use unwired
foundation with the above method on large swarms.

Do not plan however, to be extracting honey from this type of frame and comb
combination, at least in a centrifugal extractor, it works nicely if you want
to squeeze it by hand. (no stiff wires to stick in your hand) and lots of
possibilities for cutting a long comb out for a tall gift bottle of honey.

This method also makes it easy to 'recycle' old frames, I boil them in a vat
until all the old comb is gone, leaving just the frame,  and split pins (and
those little curly golden wires) I then use compressed air to blow off the
remaining bits while the frame is still hot.  When the frame is dry, and now
nicely coated with wax, I pull the pins out enough to clear a new sheet of
foundation, drop it in, push the pens back and secure the bottom bars with the
screw.

Works for me.

C.K.


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From: Charlie Kroeger <ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: AFB in my Apiary??
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:14:02 -0500
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As soon as you 'see' infected cells, 'sunken covered brood usually with a pin
hole in the middle of the cover'; use the toothpick method for conformation.
(pulling out a 'snotty' strand of former healthy brood) Don't leave things so
long that you actually start smelling the hive (the foul smell of foul brood)

>Now what to do...?

I would keep a close watch on the hives you suspected, as soon as you find
sign of infection, (as above)  take out that frame and burn it up.  You can
boil infected wooden ware in a solution of caustic soda, but it's not worth
it. 

(1 cup caustic soda crystals to 4 gallons water, very strong and dangerous to
use. Never adding the water to the crystals but the other way around)

Sometimes bees will recover from foul brood if you keep their hive free of
infected cells, clean and full of bees.  (adding bees divided between a sheet
of newspaper will allow them to 'chew through' and join up without the
fighting)

I know what you're thinking, you have already ordered Terramycin and you're
going to use it.  It's up to you, but I don't recommend it or any of that
stuff.  Just keep the infection cleared out by frequent inspections of your
bees.  If they pull through, good enough, if they don't, sterilize everything
you want to save in that solution above, and start over.

By screwing around with antibiotics you may incur a false sense that all is
well, and risk the chance of AFB creating spores that last 60 years.  It was
once thought that no resistance to Terramycin had ever developed in the 30 odd
years it has been used, but now there's doubt about that.

C.K.






Article 25964 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:01:40 EDT
From:  <ftekpuentes@UBmail.ubalt.edu>
Subject: VA Killer Bees???
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Paul Harvey had a little blip on his show a few days ago about a
particular hive being investigated for unusal agressiveness not to far
from DC in VA. Does anyone know anything about this???

thanks,

joseph in NC








Article 25965 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Jan @ Lando" <janc@lando.co.za>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: mad bees
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:51:28 +0200
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I have 35 hives of pure-bred African Bees and find that amongst them any 34
will be quite happy to part with their honey without much fuss. One will
fight like hell to keep it. My problem is that it is not always the same one
that shows this character, therefore I cannot blame the queen. It is
interesting to learn that the so-called "timid" strains of bees also
displays aggressiveness!

Jan Coetsee
janc@lando.co.za

--
"Charles "Stretch" Ledford" <HiStretch@GoStretch.com> wrote in message
news:HiStretch-1007000913060001@pool-207-205-179-41.phnx.grid.net...
> I put in a swarm this spring, and I couldn't believe how aggressive the
> bees continued to be, even several weeks after they were hived.  I would
> regularly get stung doing the most simple manipulations of the hive.
>
> After finding some queen cells and a patchy egg-laying pattern, I decided
> to re-queen.  The change in the bees' mood was nearly immediate and quite
> dramatic.  It's been a couple of weeks now and I'm opening up the hive in
> running shorts and a tee shirt with no problems at all.
>
> --
> Charles "Stretch" Ledford
> STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY
> "North America and the Entire World"
> http://www.GoStretch.com




Article 25966 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Chris Sauer" <sauer@mwci.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: spun honey
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 07:29:11 -0500
Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com
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You need to use about 10% seed honey, Stoller's is great if you can get it.
The ideal temp is 57 deg F.  When mixing, avoid bubbles by keeping your
spoon below the surface.

Good Luck!

Chris Sauer
www.greathoney.com

"Lowell and Diane Hutchison" <hutchiso@ccp.com> wrote in message
news:3969e590@super...
> Can anyone give me the directions to produce spun or "cremed" honey?  I
know
> that you seed it with some spun honey and hold at cool temperature, but
that
> is all I know.  Thanks for the help.
> hutchiso@ccp.com
>
>




Article 25967 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "N Gravel" <ngravel@direct.ca>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <3969F008.CEFD573A@nospam.boeing.com> <j_pa5.2782$wE2.7609@dfw-read.news.verio.net>
Subject: Re: Does age matter on plastic foundation?
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    Age would matter if your foundation has become brittle.
    When there is a "good flow", bees will draw "anything" but one way you
can help them is by spraying sugared water on the frames.
    I think I would call it more a lack of patience than a failure.
    As for swarming, adding a super of foundation won't solve your problem.
And sometimes, anything you do won't stop them to swarm,  but you can always
try as best you can with other swarm control techniques.
    Unless you increase the amount of your colonies next year, you will have
drawn combs to play with instead of foundation, and life will be easier, Use
those caught new swarm to draw, they're always keen to do so.
    I might be wrong because bees are bees but I hope this will help
    Normand




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From: "Teri Bachus" <bachmoz@aug.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: VA Killer Bees???
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 17:56:43 -0400
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see the recent thread on "biased media coverage" in this newsgroup, or go
directly to the source at:
http://washingtonpost.com:80/wp-dyn/articles/A3506-2000Jul8.html
"Lab to Determine if Va. Bees Are Killer Swarm"...any further updates would
bee most appreciated!




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From: leggsafton@my-deja.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: VA Killer Bees???
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 02:18:48 GMT
Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy.
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In article <smn63pm1nd686@corp.supernews.com>,
  "Teri Bachus" <bachmoz@aug.com> wrote:
> see the recent thread on "biased media coverage" in this newsgroup,
or go
> directly to the source at:
> http://washingtonpost.com:80/wp-dyn/articles/A3506-2000Jul8.html
> "Lab to Determine if Va. Bees Are Killer Swarm"...any further updates
would
> bee most appreciated!
> The news today mentioned something about the hives being burned but
that was it.   The bees supposedly swarmed all over a goat and killed
it and attacked the people trying to rescue the goat.  Have not heard
results of lab tests.
>


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 25970 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "nomad" <damon@lxucom.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: an answer to the 1:1 2:1 fomorula question
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 11:15:45 -0500
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I found the following in the Brushy Bee Mnt Catalouge:

    "To make 1:1 syrup combine one pound of sugar with one pint of water To
make 2:1 syrup combine 5 pounds  of sugar with 2.5 pints of  BOILING water.
Always let syrup cool before putting on the [hive]."




Article 25971 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Charlie Kroeger <ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: an answer to the 1:1 2:1 fomorula question
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 14:07:30 -0500
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This formula has always done well at any time of year, it makes a 'light'
syrup. Don't forget the thymol (5cc of 2% thymol sol. per gallon U.S.) which
will prevent the solution from fermenting too soon, and apparently is hell on
both type of mites.

To 3 pounds sugar and water to create one U.S. Gallon.

Forget the boiling, it isn't necessary, waste fuel, and time.

Word to wise newbies: don't dump a lot of granulated sugar into water and then
go off for a drink. You'll have a portland cement like lump in the bottom of
your mixing vessel that is very hard to deal with. Granulated sugar really is
dangerous stuff and should be a controlled substance, while decriminalizing
that other stuff.  

Best way: put in a half a gallon of water first and continuously stir while
pouring in the sugar.  Continue to stir the water and sugar until the water
'clears'; after that, add sufficient water to make up one gallon; takes about
5 minutes, add the thymol, feed directly to the bees.

C.K.


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From: tenmoku@webtv.net (Hank Mishima)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Foundation support pins
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I have good results using pins with medium wax foundation both for cut
comb and extracting.

One idea for cut comb is to flip the small wood strip from the frame
sideways so you can nail through the wax foundation. Use two pins. On
one side place the pin in the top hole and on the other place it in the
bottom. This helps avoid warping of the foundation.

---------------------------------------------------------------

To contact your elected officials see www.vote-smart.org



Article 25973 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: NZ to _manage_ Varroa
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:19:24 +1200
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Greetings All
Hot of the press !!!!!!!
drum roll please

Announced today rather than destroy the colonies the NZ Govt has decided to
manage Varroa mite.

Some time ago posters in this ng said they would email the appropriate
people in NZ of their experience and opinions,  accordingly i posted some
email addresses here.Thanks to anyone who may have followed up on that,
every bit helps.

Apparently, according to press reports, many beekeepers here are disgruntled
by the decision not to exterminate.
it is my thought that some of them may have been influenced toward the
eradication approach because financial compensation  was suggested as part
of the eradication plan....then beekeepers could have been compensated for
the loss of hives and income.

Some of the Beekeepers i have talked to were adamant they wanted  all hives
destroyed and were advocating the eradication process.  I repeated to them
as verbatim as i could,  the opinions that i had gleaned in this ng,
regarding eradication.
The MAF officers had also established that the success rate of capturing all
of the mite infestations would have been only 50-70% and they considered the
cost was too high for that type of marginal success.

Time for me to study hard now,  i have been sitting back adopting the 'wait
and see' attitude while the decision was in the balance,  looks like it's
time to get cracking !!

many thanks also for all the advice
and the hope... that there is life after Varroa

carman




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From: Charlie Kroeger <ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: VA Killer Bees???
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 10:19:45 -0500
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>Paul Harvey had

Paul Harvey...ho ho...you won't get the news from Paul Harvey.  Better listen
to "all things considered" if they do a story about Africanized bees in
Virginia that would probably be worth a listen.

C.K.


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From: Charlie Kroeger <ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: FYI: Gardeners and Sevin Dust: posted to garden groups
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Jesse Hunter ask:

>What then is a good insecticide to use in my garden?

Insecticidal soaps actually work pretty well if your problem is soft-bodied
insects like aphids, mealybug, scales, thrips, whiteflies, and mites.  My
biggest problem here is grasshoppers, however, soap is pretty effective on
them especially in the 1st and 2nd instars. (small) as grasshoppers go, soap
is  slower than say malathion, but small grasshoppers will eventually die.
Soap is not good to use on plants with thin cuticles, such as beans, Chinese
cabbage, cucumbers, ferns, gardenias, Japanese maples, nasturtiums, and young
peas.  Tomatoes and potatoes are less susceptible to damage and cabbages are
impervious.  Soap kills insects on contact by paralyzing them, disrupting
membranes, and affecting their growth and development. Beetles are less
susceptible to soap, so lady beetles are relatively safe, but soap spray will
kill their larvae.

home-mixed soap sprays are just as effective as commercial insecticidal soaps
like 'safer.'  You can use household soaps like 'Ivory Snow', 'Ivory Liquid,'
or 'Shakelee's Basic H.'  You can also make your own soap with olive oil and
lye.

olive oil soap:  (mix in glass)

3 tablespoons water

4 tablespoons lye (dissolve in water, this mixture will get hot)

after lye is dissolved, slowly pour in:

1 cup olive oil while stirring constantly.

continue to stir for 5 minutes.

pour the soap into plastic (no.2) container or glass

this recipe produces 1-1/4 cups of solid soap

To make an insecticidal spray:  mix from 1 level teaspoon to 1 tablespoon of
(the above) soap per gallon (U.S) of rain or distilled water (this is
important)

If plants are undamaged and insect control is not satisfactory, try doubling
the concentration. 

A good rule is to use no more than three successive sprays on any particular
plant because soaps are contact insecticides, spray both upper and lower sides
of leaves thoroughly to maximize contact with insects.  To avoid leaf damage,
spray soap on overcast days or in the evening.

There are also Alcohol sprays, garlic oil sprays, and herbal sprays.  There is
'hot dust' black pepper, chili pepper, dill, ginger, paprika, and red pepper
all contain capsicum, a compound shown to repel insects. There is also 'bug
juice' sprays (see EPA warning 1972) but that's another post.

From my own experience and the help of 'Rodale's chemical-free yard and
garden'
1991 (ISBN 0-87857-951-6 hard cover)

>Are there any chemicals that the farmer who is renting this field
>from me might use that could hurt my bees?

Ask him, tell him your concerns.  If he isn't an asshole, as some farmer are,
he will tell you when he is going to spray and what and how long it will stay
around.  You can keep your bees in that day. (using plenty of ventilation,
like screened inner covers, and shade and if it is a hot day with several good
sprays of water) if he is an 'enlightened farmer' kind of rare I know, but if
he is, he will use an insecticide that doesn't stay around long; the best are
sprayed in the morning and gone by lunch,  of course these cost more than the
older compounds that stay around two weeks or longer, sad isn't it.

Then Glenn West said: (regarding the safety label on Sevin 'dust' )

>Isn't this kind of like preaching to the choir?  

Does this suggest that is pointless to tell people they are in violation of
pesticide usage (unenforceable laws) if they don't care or don't read? " The
National Water Quality Assessment " says that nearly all of the streams and
half of the wells sampled in the United States are contaminated with
pesticides.  Atrazine and Simazine were two of the most common herbicides
detected, Diazinon, Chlorpyrifos (Dursban) and Carbaryl (Sevin) were among the
most common insecticides.  On average, seven to eight pesticides were found in
each stream, and levels often exceeded 'safe' drinking water standards.

What this tells me (if you choose to believe the NWQA) is that when the rot is
at the top nothing that happens down below should be surprising.

C.K.

-
EPA’s SCIENTIFIC ROLE COMES UP FOR A HOUSE HEARING
The National Academy of Science released a report suggesting that the EPA 
needs to develop a new high-level office to take control of the EPA’s 
scientific activities.  The House is holding a hearing this week to examine 
these recommendations and hear testimony.  Although the report concluded 
that EPA’s scientific practices have improved, its main criticism was that 
EPA data are manipulated, consciously or unconsciously, to fit public 
policy.

source: www.lcv.org

For full profiles of the Dirty Dozen candidates, please visit LCV’s Web 
site at: http://www.lcv.org/campaigns/index.htm?0622

"Candidates named to the Dirty Dozen share the dishonorable distinction of 
waging assaults on the environment by catering to corporate polluters and 
standing in the way of cleaner air and water protections," said LCV 
political director Betsy Loyless. "We need members of the U.S. Congress who 
work to give Americans cleaner air to breathe and safer water to drink. 
These Dirty Dozen candidates put polluters before people and it's time that 
voters in their states and districts put them out of a job."
    



Article 25976 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: John Edwards <edwards@tucson.ars.ag.gov>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: an answer to the 1:1 2:1 formula question
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 11:08:19 -0700
Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona
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Charlie Kroeger wrote:

> This formula has always done well at any time of year, it makes a 'light'

> syrup. Don't forget the thymol (5cc of 2% thymol sol. per gallon U.S.)

> <SNIP>
> , add the thymol, feed directly to the bees.
>
> C.K.

- and please don't sell any "honey" produced this way.

-- John
-----------------------------------------------------------
John F. Edwards
Biological Lab. Technician
Carl Hayden Bee Research Center
Agricultural Research Service - USDA
Tucson, Arizona 85719
http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/home/edwards/edwards.html




Article 25977 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: James Kilty <honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: NZ to _manage_ Varroa
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 00:12:10 +0100
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In article <8kh0sd$8f3$1@news.wave.co.nz>, Carman <calm@wave.co.nz>
writes
>Greetings All
>Hot of the press !!!!!!!
>drum roll please
>
>Announced today rather than destroy the colonies the NZ Govt has decided to
>manage Varroa mite.
Excellent news.
>Some time ago posters in this ng said they would email the appropriate
>people in NZ of their experience and opinions,  accordingly i posted some
>email addresses here.Thanks to anyone who may have followed up on that,
>every bit helps.
I sent 3. Two were returned as undeliverable. One got through. I had a
considered reply.
>The MAF officers had also established that the success rate of capturing all
>of the mite infestations would have been only 50-70%
exactly.
> and they considered the
>cost was too high for that type of marginal success.
exactly.
>Time for me to study hard now,  i have been sitting back adopting the 'wait
>and see' attitude while the decision was in the balance,  looks like it's
>time to get cracking !!
>
>many thanks also for all the advice
>and the hope... that there is life after Varroa
Indeed.
-- 
James Kilty


Article 25978 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Rodney Isom" <rodneyi@nooospam.hiwaay.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Is it honey yet?
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 19:09:25 -0500
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Hi again,

I posted this on 7/1 and then had to go to Mexico until today, and don't see
my message on the group.  I've had problems with getting stuff to post
correctly the first time, so if you've already seen this & replied, please
post your replies again.  If this is the first time, thanks in advance for
the advice.

Rodney

****Original posting*****


Hi folks,

It's the beginning beekeeper again.  I have extracted my first super of
honey & it's a good bit thinner than some other honey I've gotten from other
places, but I would estimate 85% of the comb was capped and none would shake
out of the open cells when I tried.  (I believe the honey flow ended before
all the cells were filled and capped.)  Did I extract too early or is some
honey just thinner than others?  Does capped always mean ripe?

Also, I'm in north Alabama & the honey is light colored with a pretty mild
taste.  Any idea of what kind of flower(s) it came from?

Thanks for the advice,
Rodney

******************
Rodney Isom
Arab, AL
rodneyi@noooospam.hiwaay.net
(remove the obvious part to reply)






Article 25979 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Chris Sauer" <sauer@mwci.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Does age matter on plastic foundation?
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 19:59:40 -0500
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References: <3969F008.CEFD573A@nospam.boeing.com> <j_pa5.2782$wE2.7609@dfw-read.news.verio.net> <27Ga5.13092$BS1.352435@brie.direct.ca>
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I've found that plasticell, ritecell and permadent get drawn out by my
italians when I'm either feeding them or there is a good flow on.  The
advantages definitely, IMHO, outweigh the cons.  We had a couple of frames
with wax moth damage last year and just scraped the comb down to the plastic
and, voila, a couple of days later new, white comb was there.

Chris
85 hives of plastic-loving italians in NE Iowa
www.greathoney.com


"N Gravel" <ngravel@direct.ca> wrote in message
news:27Ga5.13092$BS1.352435@brie.direct.ca...
>     Age would matter if your foundation has become brittle.
>     When there is a "good flow", bees will draw "anything" but one way you
> can help them is by spraying sugared water on the frames.
>     I think I would call it more a lack of patience than a failure.
>     As for swarming, adding a super of foundation won't solve your
problem.
> And sometimes, anything you do won't stop them to swarm,  but you can
always
> try as best you can with other swarm control techniques.
>     Unless you increase the amount of your colonies next year, you will
have
> drawn combs to play with instead of foundation, and life will be easier,
Use
> those caught new swarm to draw, they're always keen to do so.
>     I might be wrong because bees are bees but I hope this will help
>     Normand
>
>




Article 25980 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re-Queening
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:16:15 -0700
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I know I read here a thread about re-queening, but cannot find it now. What is
the recommendation for how much time (hours/days) before installing a new
queen to remove the queen you are replacing?  If it is too many days, will it
be more difficult to get the new queen accepted?  I've got a queen ordered and
now have the daunting task of finding the unmarked queen buried in the mass of
ornery bees, whose stinky attitude I'm hoping  to improve.  I ordered a
buckfast queen.

Niki

--


J & N F.

Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.





Article 25981 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "gene/janice" <e-jeve@spiritone.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Fertile Queen?
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 19:15:56 -0700
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Captured a swarm of 6+ pounds.   About 10 days ago there were several
frames of sealed brood so I put a honey super on top of 2 deeps.
Went in today, the 2 deeps are full of honey and bees are into the super but
no sealed brood.   There was one circle of brood about 4 inches in dia. on
one side of one frame.   Some very small on up to almost ready to cap.  No
drone brood.   I caged the quite large, healthy looking queen and put a
frame
of brood from another hive in there.   My question is---how do I know if the
old
queen is any good?    Could this be a young queen just starting.   So much
to
learn.   Could someone help me please

                     Gene.




Article 25982 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hamilton@pbssite.com (Dave Hamilton)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Re-Queening
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I would introduce the new queen into a 4 frame nuc and get her laying.
Then put all 4 frames in the hive you are requeening.

If you have problems finding the queen in a large colony you can put
an empty box above a queen excluder and shake the frames. Workers will
quicky go back down into their hive leaving queen on excluder.

Dave

On Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:16:15 -0700, "J & N F."
<johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote:

>I know I read here a thread about re-queening, but cannot find it now. What is
>the recommendation for how much time (hours/days) before installing a new
>queen to remove the queen you are replacing?  If it is too many days, will it
>be more difficult to get the new queen accepted?  I've got a queen ordered and
>now have the daunting task of finding the unmarked queen buried in the mass of
>ornery bees, whose stinky attitude I'm hoping  to improve.  I ordered a
>buckfast queen.
>
>Niki
>
>--
>
>
>J & N F.
>
>Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
>Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
>
>
>





Article 25983 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Where?

http://www.giniss.net/

enjoy

Doris


Article 25984 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "nomad" <damon@lxucom.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee-go
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 01:49:17 -0500
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"SomeOne" <Why@me.com> wrote in message
news:SW3a5.7$Hg4.1142@jump.innerx.net...
> In article <20000709090249.04648.00002633@ng-fj1.aol.com>,
bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) wrote:
> >> You can get it from any of the bee catalogs if you can't get it at your
> >>regular dealer. Bee-Go and Honey Robber are the same chemical except
Honey
> >>Robber adds a bit of a cherry smell added to it to make it nicer for
humans.
> >>
> >>
> > I think they call it liquid Smoke too. They works. I remove super with
full of
> >honey and took another lid with a filter cloth( after spray Bee-go on it)
on
> >the inside and lay it up aging the super, Lord behold, The bees jump out
other
> >side like craze and fast as it can be.They really hate that smell.
> >Spray it at the shop before you take it at the site that way you won't
spill
> >any inside your hive.
> >Brushy Mountain have it for $9.25 per pint.
>
>  No Liquid Smoke is a different product. It is designed to mimic the smell
of
> smoke and they add wintergreen oil to it claiming it calms the bees so you
can
> work with them.
>  I had some and it was 'ok' . I still prefer my smoker, but if I was in a
real
> fire prone area I might consider it as a sub.

    Liquid smoke is alright i guess for keeping them calm but it sure
doesn't turn them around or move them out of your way like the real thing.
Next time i need some LS i'm going to just mix up that supermarket liquid
smoke (from the cooking aisle) and maybe add some spearmint oil. I think
that it would be more economical than the $30 concentrate i purchased.

--
to <reply>:

My email mirrors my name:
damon :: nomad





Article 25985 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com>
References: <#VK3kgG7$GA.288@cpmsnbbsa09> <396dba55.226910765@west.usenetserver.com>
Subject: Re: Re-Queening
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Thank you, sounds good.  I kind of figured I'd have to set up a nuc,
especially after we spent an hour last evening trying to find the queen, to no
avail.  The nuc should have frames of honey/pollen & brood, & extra bees,
correct?  I have a small 5-frame box just right for this.   How far from the
existing hive should I set the nuc up, so the bees don't all run back to the
existing hive?  As far as finding the old queen, just so I understand, I have
two hive bodies in the existing hive, the brood nest is in the bottom.  I
should take maybe the top hive body, set it on a bottom board, then place a
queen excluder above it.  Then set the bottom hive body above that, and remove
the frames one at a time, brushing the bees onto the queen excluder?  If that
part is correct, should I do this at the same time I've set up the nuc, or
should I wait until some specified time before I'm ready to introduce the 4
frame nuc back into the remaining colony?  I do appreciate your help, I keep
re-reading applicable sections in the books I have, but am inexperienced, so
unsure of what I'm doing.  I'm nursing a very swollen ankle today from
yesterdays interaction with them.   When I bend & move, sometimes the bee suit
pulls upward and exposes my ankles (even though it seems plenty big).
Yesterday I thought I was smart & duct taped the coveralls to the shoe.  That
was even worse, since when it pulled up, the duct tape kept me from pulling
the coveralls back down over the shoe & it was hard to get hold of the tape
with the gloves on!  So the little stinkers kept stinging until I finally got
the duct tape off.  Oh well!

Niki
--


J & N F.

Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.


"Dave Hamilton" <hamilton@pbssite.com> wrote in message
news:396dba55.226910765@west.usenetserver.com...
> I would introduce the new queen into a 4 frame nuc and get her laying.
> Then put all 4 frames in the hive you are requeening.
>
> If you have problems finding the queen in a large colony you can put
> an empty box above a queen excluder and shake the frames. Workers will
> quicky go back down into their hive leaving queen on excluder.
>
> Dave
>
> On Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:16:15 -0700, "J & N F."
> <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote:
>
> >I know I read here a thread about re-queening, but cannot find it now. What
is
> >the recommendation for how much time (hours/days) before installing a new
> >queen to remove the queen you are replacing?  If it is too many days, will
it
> >be more difficult to get the new queen accepted?  I've got a queen ordered
and
> >now have the daunting task of finding the unmarked queen buried in the mass
of
> >ornery bees, whose stinky attitude I'm hoping  to improve.  I ordered a
> >buckfast queen.
> >
> >Niki
> >
> >--
> >
> >
> >J & N F.
> >
> >Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> >Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>



Article 25986 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Message-ID: <396E0EC0.C5995587@cybertours.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 14:47:29 -0400
From: Midnite Bee <midnitebee@cybertours.com>
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Greetings!

George Imirie's "Managing Your Bees For the Next 9 Months " is located
here:

http://www.cybertours.com/%7Emidnitebee/html/July2000.htm

Herb/Norma Bee
Holly-B Apiary
PO Box 26
Wells,Maine 04090-0026
"an educated consumer is YOUR best customer"
The Beekeeper's Home on the Internet
http://www.mainebee.com
Stony Critters
http://www.stonycritters.com




Article 25987 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "George Styer" <gstyLer@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Subject: Re: Re-Queening
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You will need to locate the queen when you set up the nuc. Don't want to get
her in the nuc.

--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there


"J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
news:#mIHb8O7$GA.328@cpmsnbbsa08...
> Thank you, sounds good.  I kind of figured I'd have to set up a nuc,
> especially after we spent an hour last evening trying to find the queen,
to no
> avail.  The nuc should have frames of honey/pollen & brood, & extra bees,
> correct?  I have a small 5-frame box just right for this.   How far from
the
> existing hive should I set the nuc up, so the bees don't all run back to
the
> existing hive?  As far as finding the old queen, just so I understand, I
have
> two hive bodies in the existing hive, the brood nest is in the bottom.  I
> should take maybe the top hive body, set it on a bottom board, then place
a
> queen excluder above it.  Then set the bottom hive body above that, and
remove
> the frames one at a time, brushing the bees onto the queen excluder?  If
that
> part is correct, should I do this at the same time I've set up the nuc, or
> should I wait until some specified time before I'm ready to introduce the
4
> frame nuc back into the remaining colony?  I do appreciate your help, I
keep
> re-reading applicable sections in the books I have, but am inexperienced,
so
> unsure of what I'm doing.  I'm nursing a very swollen ankle today from
> yesterdays interaction with them.   When I bend & move, sometimes the bee
suit
> pulls upward and exposes my ankles (even though it seems plenty big).
> Yesterday I thought I was smart & duct taped the coveralls to the shoe.
That
> was even worse, since when it pulled up, the duct tape kept me from
pulling
> the coveralls back down over the shoe & it was hard to get hold of the
tape
> with the gloves on!  So the little stinkers kept stinging until I finally
got
> the duct tape off.  Oh well!
>
> Niki
> --
>
>
> J & N F.
>
> Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
>
>
> "Dave Hamilton" <hamilton@pbssite.com> wrote in message
> news:396dba55.226910765@west.usenetserver.com...
> > I would introduce the new queen into a 4 frame nuc and get her laying.
> > Then put all 4 frames in the hive you are requeening.
> >
> > If you have problems finding the queen in a large colony you can put
> > an empty box above a queen excluder and shake the frames. Workers will
> > quicky go back down into their hive leaving queen on excluder.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > On Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:16:15 -0700, "J & N F."
> > <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote:
> >
> > >I know I read here a thread about re-queening, but cannot find it now.
What
> is
> > >the recommendation for how much time (hours/days) before installing a
new
> > >queen to remove the queen you are replacing?  If it is too many days,
will
> it
> > >be more difficult to get the new queen accepted?  I've got a queen
ordered
> and
> > >now have the daunting task of finding the unmarked queen buried in the
mass
> of
> > >ornery bees, whose stinky attitude I'm hoping  to improve.  I ordered a
> > >buckfast queen.
> > >
> > >Niki
> > >
> > >--
> > >
> > >
> > >J & N F.
> > >
> > >Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> > >Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>




Article 25988 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "George Styer" <gstyLer@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: Fertile Queen?
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You'll never know if she is any good if you cage her. What was the reason
for caging her and introducing a frame of brood from another colony? We are
missing some information in your post. Are you seeing any eggs? How long
before your inspection of 10 days ago did you hive the swarm? Is there any
evidence of queen rearing such as empty queen cells? It is impossible to
determine from the information you provide whether or not it is possible
that this is a new queen.

--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there


"gene/janice" <e-jeve@spiritone.com> wrote in message
news:8kjamb02u7d@enews2.newsguy.com...
> Captured a swarm of 6+ pounds.   About 10 days ago there were several
> frames of sealed brood so I put a honey super on top of 2 deeps.
> Went in today, the 2 deeps are full of honey and bees are into the super
but
> no sealed brood.   There was one circle of brood about 4 inches in dia. on
> one side of one frame.   Some very small on up to almost ready to cap.  No
> drone brood.   I caged the quite large, healthy looking queen and put a
> frame
> of brood from another hive in there.   My question is---how do I know if
the
> old
> queen is any good?    Could this be a young queen just starting.   So much
> to
> learn.   Could someone help me please
>
>                      Gene.
>
>




Article 25989 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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--------------E56A2975C590739114C0BE92
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

 I have six hives and live in the San Joaquin Valley.  I got my hives
about three months ago.  I bought 4 established hives, and picked up 2
swarms.  I have been feeding my bees sugar water.  How do I stop feeding
them.  They are healthy and very busy.
Thank you, Sharon

--------------E56A2975C590739114C0BE92
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<i>&nbsp;</i>I have six hives and live in the San Joaquin Valley.&nbsp;
I got my hives about three months ago.&nbsp; I bought 4 established hives,
and picked up 2 swarms.&nbsp; I have been feeding my bees sugar water.&nbsp;
How do I stop feeding them.&nbsp; They are healthy and very busy.
<br>Thank you, Sharon</html>

--------------E56A2975C590739114C0BE92--



Article 25990 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hamilton@pbssite.com (Dave Hamilton)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Re-Queening
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If you put brood into the nuc and shake bees into the nuc box through
the QE, the field bees will drift back to their hive but the nurse
bees will stay with the brood,  I have my nucs set right by the hive
this way. Young nurse bees are more likely to accept your new
expensive queen.  The bees will need the nector and pollen frames in
the nuc.  You can leave the frames of capped honey with the field bees
in the original hive.   

Dave

On Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:23:34 -0700, "J & N F."
<johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote:

>Thank you, sounds good.  I kind of figured I'd have to set up a nuc,
>especially after we spent an hour last evening trying to find the queen, to no
>avail.  The nuc should have frames of honey/pollen & brood, & extra bees,
>correct?  I have a small 5-frame box just right for this.   How far from the
>existing hive should I set the nuc up, so the bees don't all run back to the
>existing hive?  As far as finding the old queen, just so I understand, I have
>two hive bodies in the existing hive, the brood nest is in the bottom.  I
>should take maybe the top hive body, set it on a bottom board, then place a
>queen excluder above it.  Then set the bottom hive body above that, and remove
>the frames one at a time, brushing the bees onto the queen excluder?  If that
>part is correct, should I do this at the same time I've set up the nuc, or
>should I wait until some specified time before I'm ready to introduce the 4
>frame nuc back into the remaining colony?  I do appreciate your help, I keep
>re-reading applicable sections in the books I have, but am inexperienced, so
>unsure of what I'm doing.  I'm nursing a very swollen ankle today from
>yesterdays interaction with them.   When I bend & move, sometimes the bee suit
>pulls upward and exposes my ankles (even though it seems plenty big).
>Yesterday I thought I was smart & duct taped the coveralls to the shoe.  That
>was even worse, since when it pulled up, the duct tape kept me from pulling
>the coveralls back down over the shoe & it was hard to get hold of the tape
>with the gloves on!  So the little stinkers kept stinging until I finally got
>the duct tape off.  Oh well!
>
>Niki
>--
>
>
>J & N F.
>
>Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
>Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
>
>
>"Dave Hamilton" <hamilton@pbssite.com> wrote in message
>news:396dba55.226910765@west.usenetserver.com...
>> I would introduce the new queen into a 4 frame nuc and get her laying.
>> Then put all 4 frames in the hive you are requeening.
>>
>> If you have problems finding the queen in a large colony you can put
>> an empty box above a queen excluder and shake the frames. Workers will
>> quicky go back down into their hive leaving queen on excluder.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> On Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:16:15 -0700, "J & N F."
>> <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> >I know I read here a thread about re-queening, but cannot find it now. What
>is
>> >the recommendation for how much time (hours/days) before installing a new
>> >queen to remove the queen you are replacing?  If it is too many days, will
>it
>> >be more difficult to get the new queen accepted?  I've got a queen ordered
>and
>> >now have the daunting task of finding the unmarked queen buried in the mass
>of
>> >ornery bees, whose stinky attitude I'm hoping  to improve.  I ordered a
>> >buckfast queen.
>> >
>> >Niki
>> >
>> >--
>> >
>> >
>> >J & N F.
>> >
>> >Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
>> >Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>





Article 25991 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Diane Christison" <dianechristison@lineone.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Beekeeping in Scotland
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My email address is dianechristison@lineone.net and not the address 
which appeared on the previous message.  Any replies should be sent
to this address.   Thanks


Diane

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------

Hello,

I am a beekeeper in the North East of Scotland.  I wonder if there are any
other Scottish Beekeepers who read this newsgroup?  

My father and I have 9 hives between us.  This year has so far been a
really bad season for us with poor honey production presumably due to the
bad weather.  Another strange thing is that none of our hives are producing
queen cells which is really unusual for this time of year.  Two of the
hives are not doing very well and we are having to feed them.

I'd like to hear from any other Scottish Beekeepers who are experiencing
similar problems?



Diane 




Article 25992 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hcampb@my-deja.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Is it honey yet?
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 22:12:41 GMT
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In article <smq1rt8ond6139@corp.supernews.com>,
  "Rodney Isom" <rodneyi@nooospam.hiwaay.net> wrote:
> Hi again,
>
> I posted this on 7/1 and then had to go to Mexico until today, and
don't see my message on the group. ...

 Did I extract too early or is some
> honey just thinner than others?  Does capped always mean ripe?
>
> Also, I'm in north Alabama & the honey is light colored with a pretty
mild taste.  Any idea of what kind of flower(s) it came from?
>
> Thanks for the advice,
> Rodney
>
    Hi Rodney,
    Just returned from a trip to NM and Colo to find your question.
    I'm in southern Alabama (actually the panhandle of Florida), but
I'm sure we have many of the same plants.  Our honey is lighter and
milder in summer and comes from ti-ti, gallberry, and probably Magnolia
and Crepe Myrtle blooms.
     You may have extracted too soon. Even when the main honey flow is
over the bees will continue to fill frames and cap cells. I'd wait
until the whole frame is capped. We took some bees out of a wall
recently and mistakenly mixed uncapped and capped honey. It was very
thin.
     Hope this helps,
                      Herb Campbell   e-mail Vasak@aol.com


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: VA Killer Bees???
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Hi Guys,
 Alleghany County in not too far from us. The Samples was sent to Va. Tech. and
then forwarded to a lab in Maryland for DNA analysis. They said the resultal
may take several weeks.
Richard Fell, an entomologist  at Va. Tech and the resident bee specialist,
said he has seen nothing to indiacate that the bee were anything other than
garden variety European  honeybees, but he needs conclusibve results from the
lab before he can be certain. Fell said European honeybees hives can react
aggressively to stimuli under the right cirumstances.
" Certain hives can be aggressive, particularly if there's not much in the way
of a nectar flow. When they're actively collecting nectar they tend to be happy
little bees," Said Fell. " The condition have been a little slow lately". What
this amounts to, said Fell, is a sort of "cabin fever". 
Fell and Day poured a cup of gasoline inside the bee boxes and closed the lid,
trapping the colony inside. Fell said there is no reason to set a hive on fire
as gasoline fumes will kill the colony.

I will keep ya'll post for an update as soon we heard something.
Over here this week, The worker drive all the Drone out and kill few of it. I
think the nectar is getting real slow here because of all the rain and cloudy
that we have this pass two month.
Oh, BTW, My bees are still friendy as so far.
                       Tim


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Am interested in beekeeping as a hobby and was interested in starting this
year. What I'm finding out is that most bee suppliers will not ship bees
after June. Is it too late to start this year? Any suggestions on getting
started?  Was thinking about getting some beginners books - any suggested
titles? Any help/suggestions/comments would be greatly appreciated. Can
respond directly to my email address:  Jaxjaguarz@worldnet.att.net

Thanks!
Eddie
Richmond, Virginia




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>Pierco is the name of a company that makes all plastic
>frames/foundations, in one piece. the bees don't all do well in
>plastic. Are you using plastic foundation then?
>Mike

No, it was all homemade wood frame. I think I know what cause it, Some of the
bees cheat on their work was eating foundation and when down to the brood
chamber to build combs and others build combs cross way because there is no
foundation up there. 


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I check the Super today and there were 85% capped, and 15% bottom is not
capped. If I shake it or bump it to see if it still wet, if not. Is it safe to
take the honey or should I wait few more week? The honey is all clear white and
has a white combs, It was never was sugar feeds. Boy, I can't wait to taste it.
Rackon it would be worth more than a Sour wood?
                                                              Tim


Article 25997 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 21:47:03 EDT
From:  <ftekpuentes@UBmail.ubalt.edu>
Subject: RE: VA Killer Bees/thanks
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I just wanted to hear the story from those more experienced than I. I know
that the verdict is still out but thank you all for leading me in the
direction of where to find the facts when they are available.

thanks,

joseph in NC








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I bought mine in June from Draper Super Bee (www.draperbee.com) and I think
York Bee Company (www.yorkbee.com) might have bees for sale.

Robert



Edward L. Hope, Jr. <Jaxjaguarz@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:hKtb5.1968$tI4.100427@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> Am interested in beekeeping as a hobby and was interested in starting this
> year. What I'm finding out is that most bee suppliers will not ship bees
> after June. Is it too late to start this year? Any suggestions on getting
> started?  Was thinking about getting some beginners books - any suggested
> titles? Any help/suggestions/comments would be greatly appreciated. Can
> respond directly to my email address:  Jaxjaguarz@worldnet.att.net
>
> Thanks!
> Eddie
> Richmond, Virginia
>
>




Article 25999 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: craig1966@my-deja.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Re-Queening
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 02:35:48 GMT
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Niki,  I know bees up the britches are no fun.  I now wear tube socks
of some sort and pull them up over the bottom of the bee suit pant
legs.  Good luck from a fellow beginner.  Craig



Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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In article <8knm7h$cbr$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk>, 
davidhennessey@nittin.freeserve.co.uk says...
> Do you sell your honey, what do you do with the wax
> are there any bee groups where you live ?
> 
> 
Moi, I distributed my honeycomb harvest out of my top bar hive last month 
to my eight neighbors on our little cul-de-sac. I am also humbled by what 
the bees can do. Pete @ Socal.
 


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I wish I had a digital camera. I would send you some pics of some Pierco
that might change your mind. Worker cells to the four corners.

--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there


"JPA555" <jpa555@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000714093147.13955.00000650@ng-fs1.aol.com...
> I have seen alot of Durgilt that was drawn out quite nice and I have seen
some
> that was pretty bad but I haven't see any Pierco that was drawn out that
would
> pass my inspections..... I guess that I am just spoiled with crimped wire
> foundation it is alot more work but well worth it
> Jim




Article 26002 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "David Hennessey" <davidhennessey@nittin.freeserve.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Beekeeping in Scotland
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Well hello a fellow Scottish bee keeper at last.

I totally agree with what you said about this year apart from having a swarm
at the beginning of May (yes! the 1st. May).

My thoughts on this, for what it's worth is surely the bees only produce
Q/cells when there is adequate honey stores/production. This also bring in
the question of the weather. Bees are attuned to it and surely they must
know that good weather is needed for a mating flight. Could it be that there
was some Q/cells made but when the weather wasn't quite right were broken
down. I have observed this myself.

What a wealth of local information we could have if there was a Scottish
or regional web site for us.

I'm no expert (you may have gathered) but just an observer and happy to be.
I am humbled at what the bees can do and happy to let them do it.

I have four hive in three different areas and been bee keeping for five
years now and love it. Do you sell your honey, what do you do with the wax
are there any bee groups where you live ?

Hope to hear from you soon.

David (10 miles from Edinburgh)
Charles Cameron <thedooman@lineone.net> wrote in message
news:01bfed0a$f36e2100$5908063e@default...
> Hello,
>
> I am a beekeeper in the North East of Scotland.  I wonder if there are any
> other Scottish Beekeepers who read this newsgroup?
>
> My father and I have 9 hives between us.  This year has so far been a
> really bad season for us with poor honey production presumably due to the
> bad weather.  Another strange thing is that none of our hives are
producing
> queen cells which is really unusual for this time of year.  Two of the
> hives are not doing very well and we are having to feed them.
>
> I'd like to hear from any other Scottish Beekeepers who are experiencing
> similar problems?
>
>
>
> Diane




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From: John Edwards <edwards@tucson.ars.ag.gov>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: VA Killer Bees???
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 12:38:26 -0700
Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona
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Blue Taz37 wrote:

> Hi Guys,
>  Alleghany County is not too far from us. The Samples was sent to Va. Tech. and
> then forwarded to a lab in Maryland for DNA analysis. They said the results
> may take several weeks.

A little background info :
   When DNA tests were proposed to identify africanized bees, the main selling
point was speed, with reports of 40-50 samples per day completed. The funding was
supplied on this basis, even though the DNA test results are sometimes difficult to
understand.

Two small questions :
      With a sample this important, why wasn't it sent to one of the several U.S.
federal and state labs with specialists in USDAID, the standard morphometrics
program ? The DNA could always be done as a backup, and, to the best of my
knowledge, USDAID is still the "Supreme Court" for honey bee identification. The
samples can be dissected, mounted, analysed, and transmitted back to the locality
within one day in serious cases (fatal stingings, mass attacks).
      Was the simple, do-it-anywhere FABIS (Fast Africanized Bee Identification
System) analysis developed at Baton Rouge, LA, used on these bees ? If not, why not
? It involves simple wing length and width measurements, and although not as
reliable as USDAID, it will surely work on "pioneering swarms", which occur in
advance of the main colonization, and are usually pure african. This analysis can
easily be done on a ten-bee sample within one hour, and is often used to determine
whether to devote one day's time to USDAID.

Basically, the difference between these two tests (USDAID and DNA) is analogous to
the two human identification tests, fingerprinting and DNA.
-----------------------------------------------------------
John F. Edwards
Biological Lab. Technician
"Feral Bee Tracker and AHB Identifier"
Carl Hayden Bee Research Center
Agricultural Research Service - USDA
2000 E. Allen Road
Tucson, Arizona 85719

http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/home/edwards/edwards.html




Article 26004 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Hugh Kernohan" <kernohan@netcomuk.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Time for a super?
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 22:22:34 +0100
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I'm a brand new and indeed accidental beekeeper, having had a prime swarm
land in the garden in early June which I have subsequently hived in a
British National.  I gave them 11 frames of foundation and from week 2 on
have had a block of bee candy in over the glass quilt as the summer here in
the UK has been unreliable, wet and cold.  As of last weekend, they had
established well with the extreme end frame on either end still untouched,
but the inner face of the next frame in on either side being drawn out.
There's plenty of brood and they are storing some honey.  When should I put
on a super?

I've read that I'm not likely to be able to remove honey this year but want
them to store enough from the late July/August flowering to be able to tide
them over the winter.

Supplementary question - should I assume that I have to requeen next spring?
Opinion seems to be divided as to whether it's an old or young queen that
will have been in the swarm, but with the balance on the old queen.

I live in South East London (and have made contact with the Bromley
Beekeepers Club who have been very helpful).

Anyone know where I can buy second hand kit eg a second hive and supers for
this one?

Thanks
SJL




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From: "gene/janice" <e-jeve@spiritone.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Fertile Queen?
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 22:11:31 -0700
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George,   I caged her to to be out of he way when I added the brood with
eggs.
Was that wrong ?    Later had 2nd thoughts so asked for advice. I put the
queen
in another hive to be feed.     The swarm had been hived about a month and
as
I said there were several frames of capped brood 10 days ago.   Now nothing
except that small circle that had very small to large brood.    My eyes can
see the
V. mite ok but I couldn't see any eggs in that circle.   There were no
complete
queen cells but 2 started about 1/4 inch deep or less.
Hope that helps.    Thanks so much.
                     Gene

George Styer wrote in message ...
>You'll never know if she is any good if you cage her. What was the reason
>for caging her and introducing a frame of brood from another colony? We are
>missing some information in your post. Are you seeing any eggs? How long
>before your inspection of 10 days ago did you hive the swarm? Is there any
>evidence of queen rearing such as empty queen cells? It is impossible to
>determine from the information you provide whether or not it is possible
>that this is a new queen.
>
>--
>Geo
>Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
>"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
>gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
>To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there
>
>
>"gene/janice" <e-jeve@spiritone.com> wrote in message
>news:8kjamb02u7d@enews2.newsguy.com...
>> Captured a swarm of 6+ pounds.   About 10 days ago there were several
>> frames of sealed brood so I put a honey super on top of 2 deeps.
>> Went in today, the 2 deeps are full of honey and bees are into the super
>but
>> no sealed brood.   There was one circle of brood about 4 inches in dia.
on
>> one side of one frame.   Some very small on up to almost ready to cap.
No
>> drone brood.   I caged the quite large, healthy looking queen and put a
>> frame
>> of brood from another hive in there.   My question is---how do I know if
>the
>> old
>> queen is any good?    Could this be a young queen just starting.   So
much
>> to
>> learn.   Could someone help me please
>>
>>                      Gene.
>>
>>
>
>




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The message <01bfed0e$516d35e0$5908063e@default>
  from  "Diane Christison" <dianechristison@lineone.net> contains these words: 


> I'd like to hear from any other Scottish Beekeepers who are experiencing
> similar problems?

Terrible year for bees here in the far north (Sutherland), mainly due 
to the very low temperatures.  Feeding all four of my hives at the 
moment.  One small swarm in early June, wrapped itself round the 
trunk of a young birch tree and stayed there for ten days despite 
being within  20 feet of a prepared `bait' hive.  Finally moved into 
the hive when the weather turned really foul, but even with feeding 
seem unlikely to survive this year.

Phil.








Article 26007 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:46:02 -0600
From: Joe <joepaw@connect.ab.ca>
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I need a small inexpensive extractor, for full size frames.

Joe

Edmonton Alberta Canada.



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This happened to me also.....

The only thing we can think of is the hive swarmed...after the swarm new
workers hatched....drones take longer to hatch so thats why you see only
drone brude.

They then hatched a queen and the bees ate the honey to make room for her
egg laying.

Just an idea!

L.E.G. wrote in message <39677B06.2427F072@crosslink.net>...
>Greetings,
>Can someone help me sort out what happened, I will try to make it short.
>
>This has been an excellent year in this area,( 50 miles south of
>Washington D.C. in Va.).Plenty of rain, warm temps, everything was as
>good as it gets,BUT I did a little
>experimentation, I'll explain!!
>I have 6 hives of Buckfast bees,normally I do all the swarm prevention
>thatmost people do and alittle more with good results (only 1 hive
>swarmed this year).
>After swarm season is over I have a year to think of something new to
>try to help
>reduce swarming. Last year it was "waiting 2 weeks after putting on
>supers to add
>queen excluders"( making sure the queen has not moved up). the reason
>for this is
>in the past I have noticed that if the workers are reluctant to move up
>through the excluder,they soon get crowded and swarm. The idea is to let
>them move freely
>into the supers and become complacent, then add the restriction of the
>excluder.
>Well all this worked well this year as with last year, the new thing I
>tried this year
>was( new to me ) not to add queen excluder, just supers. So 5 hives had
>excluders 1 did not. This hive was to say the least prolific. 6 supers
>of capped and uncapped honey amonth ago.NOW the problems start!!! The
>honey flow was over the last time I checked there were 4 capped supers 2
>uncapped, approx...At that time I noticed a small patch (palm sized) of
>worker and drone brood on one of the uncapped frames, and thought that
>was going to be it.Over the past couple of weeks I noticed a reduction
>of workers bearding on the outside of hive, so it was time for
>inspection. Well to my surprise when I opened the hive to see masses of
>drones and drone comb,AND almost all the honey capped and uncapped
>GONE!!! This was my most populated hive so robbing is not a
>consideration. The only thing I can think of is the mass of Drones ate
>it. From 6 supers to 3, the rest was full of drones.Maybe the queen
>failed or was superseded anyway I could not find my marked queen ( or
>any queen that day) but there is normal amounts of worker brood, so
>there is a queen there. Another thing not right here, for being such a
>prolific queen and such a high pop. of workers, and such a good
>honeyflow this year, the stores in the brood chambers are also gone,
>nothing...
>Can anyone shed some light on what may have happened, I am not disturbed
>by this but I consider this another learning experience..
>Thanks
>L.E.G.
>
>




Article 26009 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hamilton@pbssite.com (Dave Hamilton)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: how long do you feed bees?
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When there is a nector flow on, they will stop eating the syrup you
feed them.  

Dave

On Thu, 13 Jul 2000 14:19:31 -0700, Sharon Pollack
<playadeo@lightspeed.net> wrote:

>
>--------------E56A2975C590739114C0BE92
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> I have six hives and live in the San Joaquin Valley.  I got my hives
>about three months ago.  I bought 4 established hives, and picked up 2
>swarms.  I have been feeding my bees sugar water.  How do I stop feeding
>them.  They are healthy and very busy.
>Thank you, Sharon
>
>--------------E56A2975C590739114C0BE92
>Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
><!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
><html>
><i>&nbsp;</i>I have six hives and live in the San Joaquin Valley.&nbsp;
>I got my hives about three months ago.&nbsp; I bought 4 established hives,
>and picked up 2 swarms.&nbsp; I have been feeding my bees sugar water.&nbsp;
>How do I stop feeding them.&nbsp; They are healthy and very busy.
><br>Thank you, Sharon</html>
>
>--------------E56A2975C590739114C0BE92--
>





Article 26010 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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If there is a Beekeeper in your area that sells equipment he probleys sells
Nukes and it is just about at the end of the time in which to start a new hive
Good Luck
Jim


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The problem with starting this late, especially with a package, is that they
may not have enough time to build up sufficiently to live through the
winter, and you definately would not harvest any honey this year.

If you were to collect a swarm, you might have a little better chance of
keeping them through the winter as a swarm is programed biologically to
build up fast (or faster anyway). A swarm this time of year would also more
than likely have a young queen, although in many cases you would still want
to replace her with known good stock after they have taken to their new
home.  Still expect no honey and to probably have to feed them.

If you REALLY want to start this year, by far your best bet (not your
cheapest), would be to find a local beekeeper willing to sell you a well
established colony of bees.  That way the bees would not have to build up
and it is possible that they would collect enough winter stores as to not
require feeding.

Hope this helps and good luck!

Edward L. Hope, Jr. <Jaxjaguarz@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:hKtb5.1968$tI4.100427@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> Am interested in beekeeping as a hobby and was interested in starting this
> year. What I'm finding out is that most bee suppliers will not ship bees
> after June. Is it too late to start this year? Any suggestions on getting
> started?  Was thinking about getting some beginners books - any suggested
> titles? Any help/suggestions/comments would be greatly appreciated. Can
> respond directly to my email address:  Jaxjaguarz@worldnet.att.net
>
> Thanks!
> Eddie
> Richmond, Virginia
>
>




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I have seen alot of Durgilt that was drawn out quite nice and I have seen some 
that was pretty bad but I haven't see any Pierco that was drawn out that would
pass my inspections..... I guess that I am just spoiled with crimped wire
foundation it is alot more work but well worth it
Jim


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Date: 15 Jul 2000 07:12:56 GMT
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The British education publication, you mentioned, is simply excellent--ordered
some time back and have been using.

Thanks for the great suggestion and I hope lots of other beekeepers who are
volunteering their time for the "kids" might see this "Bees in the Curriculum"
material.




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same as apistan, 2 strips per brood box,in opposite corners close to cluster,45
to 50 days

Rob O'Hara wrote:

> Hello all
>
> Can someone please send me directions for use of check-mite
> strips. I somehow misplaced them and they are not on the pkgs.
>
> Bees in NE Ohio building up nicely this year. We had an abundance of rain,
> which slowed down the hay-making but the bees made a nice crop of honey off
> the uncut fields!  The weather hurt some and helped others.
>
> If you are interested in beekeeping the Geauga County Beekeepers
> Association would love to see you at their picnic July 16, 2000 at
> Thompson's Ledges Park in NE Geauga County. 12:00 noon.
>
> Thankyou
>
> --
> Rob O'Hara
> rohara98@yahoo.com
> 4th Year ... 5 Hives
> 3rd String Hobbiest
> Trying To Grow



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Frankly, I find this the best site!  I enjoy reading Allen Dick (he has a
wonderful net site, diary, links, archives, etc.), also.  
I might suggest, if you don't already take "Bee Culture",  looking up their
site (it is a magazine)--has a great archive of prior issues of the magazine
and lots of articles for fun reading, too.

Best.

Buzzylee




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Subject: add supers - still feed?
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Hi

I am about to add a super to my hive...I assume this means I should
stop feeding but am unsure? (They are still taking some sugar...)

pics http://www.rec,cnchost.com/bees/

ron


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From: "Teri Bachus" <bachmoz@aug.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: VA Killer Bees???
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John Edwards wrote:
Was the simple, do-it-anywhere FABIS (Fast Africanized Bee Identification
System) analysis...<snip>...used on these bees ? If not, why not?

maybee it's the inscrutable politics of beekeeping, or the lingering
uncertainties of bee science ("b.s."
some would say)...for more details see the past thread in this newsgroup on
"ahb in southwest usa":
http://www.remarq.com/read/4586/qA3H3jnmE7AwAAAAA?idx=0&si=group&sg=sci%2Eag
riculture%2Ebeekeeping&q=ahb+in+southwest+usa&srn=FIRST

for a somewhat similar scenario in florida see the following "africanized
honey bees" thread: http://www.entomon.net/dcforum/DCForumID142/1.html#

and for even more historical background see "Killer Bees Live Calmly in
U.S." from 1991:
http://beesource.com/news/article/azrepublic.htm




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CURRENTLY ACTIVE WARNINGS AND ALERTS
Warning active at 18:00 UTC, 15 July

 (The X5 shockwave plows head-on into Earth
 circa 4 PM Eastern Standard Time, USA)
------------------------------------

Active Warnings:

* Potential Short Wave Fadeout
* Potential Major Solar Flare Warning
* Middle Latitude Auroral Activity Warning active at 18:00 UTC, 15 July
  through 16 July
* Low Latitude Auroral Activity Watch active at 18:00 UTC, 15 July
through 16 July.
* Potential severe geomagnetic storm warning for 16 July.
* Satellite Anomaly Warning for 14-16 July.

Active Alerts:

* Major X5-Class Proton Flare Alert - 14 July
* Satellite Proton Event at > 10 and > 100 MeV Alert - 14 July

********************(BLACKOUT CONDITIONS)************************

POTENTIAL RISK FOR GEOSYNCHRONOUS MAGNETOPAUSE CROSSINGS:    80%

EST. POTENTIAL GEOMAGNETIC IMPACT       EST. POTENTIAL IONOSPHERIC
IMPACT
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
       SEVERE STORM : 50 %                 LOW LATITUDES : MINOR
        MAJOR STORM : 40 %              MIDDLE LATITUDES : MAJOR
        MINOR STORM : 10 %                HIGH LATITUDES : MAJOR
     ACTIVE OR LESS :  0 %               POLAR LATITUDES : MAJOR
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
 PROBABLE SI ASSOCIATION : 95%    ESTIMATED GLOBAL IMPACT: MAJOR

ESTIMATED FORECAST PEAK PLANETARY 24-HOUR A-INDEX DURING STORM: 90-140
                   ----           ---------------

COMMENTS:

     This is a serious event and may have the potential of being one of
the largest geomagnetic storms to be observed this solar cycle.
Satellite operators, hydro operators, pipeline owners and radio
communicators may be affected by this event.
================================================================

footnotes:

(antiferromagnetic materials in a non-uniform magnetic field)
Université Louis Pasteur (Strasbourg I)

"Neutrino in a strong magnetic field" / Aurora Pérez Martinez
... - La Habana : ICIMAF, 1997. - 11 S.

"Taking the magnetic signature at EARTH LEVEL using our
 knowledge of the flare disturbances (CMEs) in the sun"

[Their team had no need of satellites, whatsoever, to take these
measurments, perhaps even more accurate than any and all satellite
observations combined.]

During periods of solar-induced activity, additional electrons from
outer space increase the conductivity of the ionosphere and hence the
quantity of electricity produced. The magnetic fields produced by these
varying currents interfere with the Earth's own magnetic field, and
such disturbances can be detected at ground level.

A MAGNETIC CROCHET is a disturbance found only on the dayside of the
Earth, caused by a burst of ultraviolet light increasing ionospheric
conductivity. A sudden impulse is due to the Earth's magnetic field
being struck by a shock wave in the solar wind, leading to compression
and intensification of the field strength. A storm sudden commencement
is a sudden impulse followed by a magnetic storm, when equatorial
currents develop to weaken the Earth's magnetic field.

A magnetic storm can develop without a storm sudden commencement or the
impact of a shock wave. The orientation of the interplanetary magnetic
field embedded in the solar wind plays a major role in determining what
happens in auroral and magnetic activity.

Magnetic activity may be caused by the Earth finding itself in the path
of particles discharged from transient solar
events - such as flares, coronal mass ejections, disappearing filaments
and the like - or recurrent events such as high
speed particle streams blown out from coronal holes, particularly in
the declining years of the sunspot cycle.

NATO Advanced Research Workshop
Institut d'Etudes Scientifiques de Cargese
Seminar,  August 21-26, 2000,Cargese, France

          "DYNAMO AND DYNAMICS,
         A MATHEMATICAL CHALLENGE"

     The onset and  dynamics of  a   magnetic  field  sustained  by
the  motion of  an electrically  conducting   fluid   (the  dynamo
problem), is  typically  one in  which a  multidisciplinary  expertise
 is  very  important  in  order to solve  even  the  most  basic
questions.   We at NATO facilitate  interaction  and discussions
among  three major research areas related to the dynamo problem,
because WE ARE REALLY STUMPED:

We have gotten NOWHERE in these three areas:

                         1) large scale simulations
                         2) nonlinear dynamics - bifurcations, chaos
                            and spatio-temporal data analysis
                         3) laboratory scale experiments

ALUMINUM & HYDROELECTRICS:

Did you know???  ---

Alcan had its beginnings in Shawinigan, Quebec, where hydroelectric
power facilities had earlier been developed. The first primary aluminum
in Canada was produced on October 22, 1901. The operation was then a
subsidiary of Aluminum Company of America (Alcoa), the pioneer
producer on the North American continent.

                  Alcan's first smelter was built in Shawinigan,
Quebec, at the turn of the century.

                  The Canadian operation was incorporated in
                  1902 as Northern Aluminum Company, but in
                  1925 its name was changed to Aluminum
                  Company of Canada, Limited. It was also in
                  1925 that the rights were acquired to develop the
                     Chute-à-Caron and
                  Shipshaw power sites on the Saguenay River, some 241
                  kilometres northeast of Shawinigan. To utilize the
                  massive and largely unused hydroelectric potential of
                  the Saguenay — Lac- Saint-Jean region, the
                  Company built and started its second aluminum smelter
                  in 1926 at a new town called Arvida, today part of
                  the city of Jonquière.

BATTLE OF THE PLANETS

*robot gold grab
*the jupiter moon menace
*magnetic attraction
*swarms of robot ants
*the galaxy girls
*demons of the desert
*prisoners in space

Most butterflies diurnal;  most ALL moths nocturnal.
Moths can hear each other, other animals, particularly ultrasound (eg,
like BATS).

Butterflies navigate by magnetic field detection.

Moth ears mostly tympanum (membrane stretched across space with
sensors) based, and use sound mimicry - mimic sound of distasteful
species.

Giant Silk Moths --- like BATS
     In tropical rain forest, can be BAT-sized.
     Hercules moth of Australia has wingspan ~12 ins.
     In US polyphemus, luna, cecropia, ceanothus

SILK MOTHS are among the
biggest night-flying insects.

The silkworm larvae emerges from its cocoon as a moth, NOT a butterfly
[after having engorged itself on thousands of mulberry leaves]

SERICULTURE - Bombyx mori (L.)

     +Sole living species, family Bombycidae

     Domesticated so long- probably no longer survives in wild.
     Chinese records- discovery of silk production
     from B. mori ~ 2,700 B.C.

Question:  Did you ever see a butterfly eat your clothes?
           Have you ever seen a butterfly attracted to a candle?

Did you know that butterfly caterpillars nearly all have colorful
plummage and have a weakness for carrot, celery, and dill??

Did you know that nearly all moth larvae [i.e. moth "caterpillars"]
rememble grubworms and leeches more than anything else?


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>I know I read here a thread about re-queening, but cannot find
it now. What is the recommendation for how much time hours/days)
before installing a new queen to remove the queen you are
replacing?  If it is too many days, will it be more difficult to
get the new queen accepted

Because the circumstances can vary a lt over the year and
between locales, general principles are easiest to discuss.

Introducing a new queen is easiest into small hives with young
bees and/or emerging brood and, not large hives or hives
dominated by old bees. Hives that are getting plenty of feed are
more friendly to new queens that those which are not.

Large hives can be split temporarily to make a smaller unit with
young bees for accepting the new queen plus a second unit
consisting of the rest of the hive.  As soon as the new queen is
accepted, the parts can be recombined.  This can be done either
with or without finding the original queen.

Here is one way to do this:

First make up a single brood chamber with some brood and bees.
If the hive is huge, just lay it down on its back (use a ladder
or board for support so it does not fall apart) and pry off the
bottom box, then set the bottom aside several feet away and
facing a different direction on a new floor and supply a lid.
Stand the rest of the hive up on the original stand.

Assuming the bees are flying freely and foraging a bit
(conditions essential to good acceptance of new queens) the
older bees will go home to the original stand and the number of
bees will be much reduced in the smaller unit.  At this point,
check the small hive carefully for a queen.  Hopefully, the
queen will be in the other hive.  If you have doubts, note the
brood area and wait up to 4 days, then check again.

If there are no new eggs, then the queen is not there.
Introduce your new queen.  The young bees will accept her.

If there are new eggs, then the queen is there and you must find
her or repeat the procedure on the large hive using the second
brood box instead.

After the new queen is well accepted and laying, there are
several options:

* Just put a queen excluder on top of the small hive and put the
larger hive on top.  Use newspaper too if the bees seem at all
cross.  Both queens will continue to work and you will have a
two queen colony. Who cares if the old queen is not perfect?
She will eventually disappear.

* Switch the colonies on a good flying day and put the supers
from the large unit onto the new queen (if you are using an
excluder).  The remaining brood chamber with the old queen and
reduced populations can easily be dequeened and combined if
desired.

* You can choose other options to suit your tastes and
circumstances.

I write about my daily beekeeping experiences in the diary (URL
below) and cover many frequently mentioned topics there,
including this one.

allen
---
A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/
Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss,
fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping
bees, hive splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily
mumblings and more... Thousands served...


-----------------------------------------------------------

Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com.
Up to 100 minutes free!
http://www.keen.com



Article 26020 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Message-ID: <3971175B.2C5E9AF9@a1usa.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 22:01:00 -0400
From: David Hiebert <hiebert@a1usa.net>
Organization: The DeskTop
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Subject: Re: Screen saver Bees?
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Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:26020

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFCC" link="#0000EE" vlink="#551A8B" alink="#FF0000">
One question:
<p>Do you want this to be a moving beehive back there when the screen saver
comes up or just a picture of bees?
<p>Blue Taz37 wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>Hi Guys,
<br>&nbsp; Does any one of you have Screen saver bees that showing a moving
brood on a
<br>comb section? I just though it would be real cute. Anybody whom walk
by my
<br>computer will think a real bee hive stand on my desk with clear glass
watch
<br>brood working. Thanks!
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Tim</blockquote>
--
<br>David
</body>
</html>



Article 26021 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: root@radioactivex.lebesque-al.net (Bilge)
Newsgroups: sci.physics.electromag,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,sci.mech.fluids,sci.physics.particle
Subject: Re: HEAD-ON COLLISION WITH EARTH, 4PM, SATURDAY
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 03:04:08 GMT
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magnesia_magneto_man@my-deja.com said some stuff about
HEAD-ON COLLISION WITH EARTH, 4PM, SATURDAY to usenet:
 >CURRENTLY ACTIVE WARNINGS AND ALERTS
 >Warning active at 18:00 UTC, 15 July
 >
 > (The X5 shockwave plows head-on into Earth
 > circa 4 PM Eastern Standard Time, USA)
 >------------------------------------


	What strength sun block would this imply?



Article 26022 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: John Edwards <edw1@azstarnet.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: HEAD-ON COLLISION WITH EARTH, 4PM, SATURDAY
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 21:28:31 -0700
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Bilge wrote:

> magnesia_magneto_man@my-deja.com said some stuff about
> HEAD-ON COLLISION WITH EARTH, 4PM, SATURDAY to usenet:
>  >CURRENTLY ACTIVE WARNINGS AND ALERTS
>  >Warning active at 18:00 UTC, 15 July
>  >
>  > (The X5 shockwave plows head-on into Earth
>  > circa 4 PM Eastern Standard Time, USA)
>  >------------------------------------
>
>         What strength sun block would this imply?

Sorry, I must have nodded off ........ what does all this have to do
with beekeeping, since it's now 9:25 p.m. PST and we all seem to still
be here ?
   - John Edwards, Tucson
           (by the way, I AM an unapologetic Art Bell fan, but this was
a little much even for Art).



Article 26023 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "eri" <chris@privateer.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: HEAD-ON COLLISION WITH EARTH, 4PM, SATURDAY
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 08:50:53 +0100
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Erm.... Its the next morn, and I was up all night to wait for the bees to
react.. perhaps I missed the point!

John Edwards <edw1@azstarnet.com> wrote in message
news:397139ED.C92572A8@azstarnet.com...
>
>
> Bilge wrote:
>
> > magnesia_magneto_man@my-deja.com said some stuff about
> > HEAD-ON COLLISION WITH EARTH, 4PM, SATURDAY to usenet:
> >  >CURRENTLY ACTIVE WARNINGS AND ALERTS
> >  >Warning active at 18:00 UTC, 15 July
> >  >
> >  > (The X5 shockwave plows head-on into Earth
> >  > circa 4 PM Eastern Standard Time, USA)
> >  >------------------------------------
> >
> >         What strength sun block would this imply?
>
> Sorry, I must have nodded off ........ what does all this have to do
> with beekeeping, since it's now 9:25 p.m. PST and we all seem to still
> be here ?
>    - John Edwards, Tucson
>            (by the way, I AM an unapologetic Art Bell fan, but this was
> a little much even for Art).
>




Article 26024 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Chris Sauer" <sauer@mwci.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: add supers - still feed?
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 07:03:06 -0500
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Ron,

If you feed with supers on your hive, even ones with foundation, you risk
adulterating your honey with sugar.  The bees will store extra feed even as
they are drawing out the foundation.  If your frames are 80 to 90 percent
drawn in the second brood box, it's time to add a super.

chris
www.greathoney.com

<rec01rec@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:8kpp9j$6r3$1@nnrp1.deja.com...
> Hi
>
> I am about to add a super to my hive...I assume this means I should
> stop feeding but am unsure? (They are still taking some sugar...)
>
> pics http://www.rec,cnchost.com/bees/
>
> ron
>
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.




Article 26025 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Biased Media Coverage
Lines: 15
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com
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Date: 16 Jul 2000 12:18:25 GMT
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>Wow. That's the most action Eric Day has had in years! Where was Dr. Fell?
>No comment?
>
 Still have not heard anything yet. Maybe next week. They should have the
answer by now.
>I bet they fed them old New River Valley bees gunpwder to make 'em mean.
>Adam

LOL, I know what you're talk about. Radford Plant! Must have eating
Nitroglycerin  in farmer barn!
                Tim
>-- 
>Adam Finkelstein




Article 26026 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Screen saver Bees?
Lines: 19
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>One question:
>
>Do you want this to be a moving beehive back there when the screen saver
>comes up or just a picture of bees?
>
>Blue Taz37 wrote:
><blockquote TYPE=CITE>Hi Guys,
>
>&nbsp; Does any one of you have Screen saver bees that showing a movingbrood
>on a
>comb section? I just though it would be real cute. Anybody whom walkby my
>computer will think a real bee hive stand on my desk with clear glasswatch
>brood working. Thanks!

Moving brood would be great. This is the one I was working on. I just finish
hand record my bees hive front enter were all the brood done hatch and were
swarm over hang front of the hive and you can see the nurs. bee cleaning young
bees. I still have not found anybody yet to download it.
                                   Tim


Article 26027 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: James Kilty <honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Time for a super?
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 00:33:36 +0100
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In article <8ko05j$p3p$1@taliesin2.netcom.net.uk>, Hugh Kernohan
<kernohan@netcomuk.co.uk> writes
>There's plenty of brood and they are storing some honey.  When should I put
>on a super?
Now. Give them room. The main problem starting is you don't have any
drawn comb to help them along. But you should have lots of young bees
ready to draw comb for you. If you have lots of flying bees they can
draw the comb on the flow which should last a while yet. Did you feed it
syrup at least for the first week or two?
>I've read that I'm not likely to be able to remove honey this year but want
>them to store enough from the late July/August flowering to be able to tide
>them over the winter.
Do you get much ivy in your area? If so, you can get more winter stores
from mid-September to mid-October.
>Supplementary question - should I assume that I have to requeen next spring?
>Opinion seems to be divided as to whether it's an old or young queen that
>will have been in the swarm, but with the balance on the old queen.
Did she start to lay as soon as there was drawn comb? If so, she was an
old queen. (I could ask was she marked but I won't!) Did she start to
lay *at least* a week after you hived it having had empty drawn comb
ready? If so, it was a virgin when you got it. (Expect 12 days or more
from emergence to laying).
>I live in South East London (and have made contact with the Bromley
>Beekeepers Club who have been very helpful).
Join them.
>Anyone know where I can buy second hand kit eg a second hive and supers for
>this one?
Via Bromley BKA. Take great care with second hand equipment. It should
be bought from someone who has *never* had AFB and preferably not EFB.
It should also be sterilised by at least flame treatment. If you can use
caustic soda even better!
-- 
James Kilty


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From: Kaimbridge <kaimbridge@my-deja.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: HEAD-ON COLLISION WITH EARTH, 4PM, SATURDAY
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 13:29:05 GMT
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In article <397139ED.C92572A8@azstarnet.com>,
  John Edwards <edw1@azstarnet.com> wrote:
>
>
> Bilge wrote:
>
> > magnesia_magneto_man@my-deja.com said some stuff about
> > HEAD-ON COLLISION WITH EARTH, 4PM, SATURDAY to usenet:
> >  >CURRENTLY ACTIVE WARNINGS AND ALERTS
> >  >Warning active at 18:00 UTC, 15 July
> >  >
> >  > (The X5 shockwave plows head-on into Earth
> >  > circa 4 PM Eastern Standard Time, USA)
> >  >------------------------------------
> >
> >         What strength sun block would this imply?
>
> Sorry, I must have nodded off ........ what does all this have to do
> with beekeeping, since it's now 9:25 p.m. PST and we all seem to still
> be here ?
>    - John Edwards, Tucson
>            (by the way, I AM an unapologetic Art Bell fan, but
> this was a little much even for Art).

Sounds like a *stinging* condemnation to me!   P=)   P=)   P=)

     ~Kaimbridge~

--
UBasic Programming Forum:  http://www.InsideTheWeb.com/mbs.cgi/mb426556

   Geographical Math Forum:
- http://forum.geography.com.sg/community/scripts/topics.pl?NodeID=93941

Global 2000 Spheroid [G2KS]: a = 6378.135, b = 6356.75, Gr = 6372.7994


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 26029 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Bob Rush" <Bob@WebmastersChoice.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Software?
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Does anyone know of a good program that I can use to keep track of my hives?

Bob Rush





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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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After the definite failure of Y2K doom, Those eternal worriers need
something (like whatever you can find on the internet)
I think it goes back to Gallic times when people were afraid that the sky
was going to fall on their heads...
We have enough problems with Varroa and such to worry about the sun. I bet
you can find something about moon flares which will influence the
reproduction of some kind of superbug which will attack all flowers of
municipalities that do have bylaws against beekeeping
You just read it on the internet, would you like me to put it on a website
so you really believe in it.
Normand




Article 26031 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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>After the definite failure of Y2K doom, Those eternal worriers need
>something (like whatever you can find on the internet)
>I think it goes back to Gallic times when people were afraid that the sky
>was going to fall on their heads...

>After the definite failure of Y2K doom, Those eternal worriers need
>something (like whatever you can find on the internet)
>I think it goes back to Gallic times when people were afraid that the sky
>was going to fall on their heads...

Surely that goes back to a kid's book from the fifties or Sixties - was it
Chicken Licken? An acorn fell on her head and she thought it was the sky. Yes,
OK, joke over, solar flares (which is what I imagine this to be about) can be
dangerous to electronic communications. But really, a doomsday scenario?

Regards,

Robert Brenchley

RSBrenchley@aol.com


Article 26032 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Tom Allen" <tsallen@mediaone.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Are there reasons not to add suppers too soon i.e. before the brood box is
drawn out? I wintered over with 3 deeps here in southern NH (seacoast area)
for extra stores. Its been a slow spring with a recent requeening. I put
both my shallow and medium supers on my one hive a couple of weeks ago. The
colony has since become "queenright" and expect the supers to be drawn out
soon. I've been tempted to put a feeder on to speed up the drawing out. What
do you think?

Tom


"Chris Sauer" <sauer@mwci.net> wrote in message
news:sn38t9rind6147@corp.supernews.com...
> Ron,
>
> If you feed with supers on your hive, even ones with foundation, you risk
> adulterating your honey with sugar.  The bees will store extra feed even
as
> they are drawing out the foundation.  If your frames are 80 to 90 percent
> drawn in the second brood box, it's time to add a super.
>
> chris
> www.greathoney.com
>
> <rec01rec@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:8kpp9j$6r3$1@nnrp1.deja.com...
> > Hi
> >
> > I am about to add a super to my hive...I assume this means I should
> > stop feeding but am unsure? (They are still taking some sugar...)
> >
> > pics http://www.rec,cnchost.com/bees/
> >
> > ron
> >
> >
> > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> > Before you buy.
>
>




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From: Pete <hrogers@arkansas.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Requeening-Without destroying Old Queen
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 15:05:59 GMT
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  dscheidl@wp.bsu.edu wrote:
> Fellow Beekeepers:
> I have successfully reared  a few queens (by grafting from my favorite
> hive) and once mated in my nucs, I caged and put into established
> hives.
> One of the hives I could not find the old queen after a great deal of
> searching on two consecutive days so I went ahead and installed the
> queen cage.  There are many eggs present neatly laid and I think that
> maybe the old queen recently died (no emergency cells though).  My
> question is will the new queen win the death fight with the old queen
> always?  Is it an even chance that this new queen is the winner?  I
> remember reading somewhere that you don't have to destroy the old
> queen when requeening.  This seems hard for me to accept though.  Your
> thoughts will be appreciated.

> Dale, Indiana
********************************************************

Howdy Dale --

   Experience is hard to beat when it comes to battle.  Could be the
old queen realized you were out to get her and started doing a better
job.

   Let us know when you know for sure.

           Pete
So much to learn - So little time !
**************************************************


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 26034 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Karyn Plank" <kplank@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Keeping Bumble bees
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My curiousity has been aroused.  I've seen a lot of bumble bees in my garden
seemingly collecting pollen just like honey bees and I also saw a post here
a while ago from someone asking about keeping bumble bees.   Do people
actually keep hives of bumble bees and are their any rewards for doing so?
I have no desire to do this, but like I said, I'm curious.  Any websites
with more information?

Thanks.
Karyn




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From: "Tom Allen" <tsallen@mediaone.net>
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I've heard and can imagine that a fight to the death would take a toll on
the winner, old or new, and should be avoided for queen health and
prosperity.


"Dale Scheidler" <dscheidl@wp.bsu.edu> wrote in message
news:39731526.BD9@wp.bsu.edu...
> Fellow Beekeepers:
> I have successfully reared  a few queens (by grafting from my favorite
> hive) and once mated in my nucs, I caged and put into established hives.
> One of the hives I could not find the old queen after a great deal of
> searching on two consecutive days so I went ahead and installed the
> queen cage.  There are many eggs present neatly laid and I think that
> maybe the old queen recently died (no emergency cells though).  My
> question is will the new queen win the death fight with the old queen
> always?  Is it an even chance that this new queen is the winner?  I
> remember reading somewhere that you don't have to destroy the old queen
> when requeening.  This seems hard for me to accept though.  Your
> thoughts will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dale, Indiana




Article 26036 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Tom Allen" <tsallen@mediaone.net>
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I found these bumble bee nest plans the other day.
http://members.aol.com/beetools/bumble.htm
Enjoy.

Tom


"Karyn Plank" <kplank@pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:3FIc5.33$PB4.28847@news.pacbell.net...
> My curiousity has been aroused.  I've seen a lot of bumble bees in my
garden
> seemingly collecting pollen just like honey bees and I also saw a post
here
> a while ago from someone asking about keeping bumble bees.   Do people
> actually keep hives of bumble bees and are their any rewards for doing so?
> I have no desire to do this, but like I said, I'm curious.  Any websites
> with more information?
>
> Thanks.
> Karyn
>
>




Article 26037 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "David Eyre" <info@beeworks.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Keeping Bumble bees
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 22:18:48 -0400
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Bumble bees are very good at pollinating tomatoe plants, seems they buzz
pollinate which disturbs the pollen which can rise in clouds. So, bumble
bees are kept for green house pollination.
    Honey crops not much to talk about.  ;-))
David Eyre,
http://www.beeworks.com
admin@beeworks.com



"Tom Allen" <tsallen@mediaone.net> wrote in message
news:T6Kc5.32236$DJ2.154332@typhoon.ne.mediaone.net...
> I found these bumble bee nest plans the other day.
> http://members.aol.com/beetools/bumble.htm
> Enjoy.
>
> Tom
>
>
> "Karyn Plank" <kplank@pacbell.net> wrote in message
> news:3FIc5.33$PB4.28847@news.pacbell.net...
> > My curiousity has been aroused.  I've seen a lot of bumble bees in my
> garden
> > seemingly collecting pollen just like honey bees and I also saw a post
> here
> > a while ago from someone asking about keeping bumble bees.   Do people
> > actually keep hives of bumble bees and are their any rewards for doing
so?
> > I have no desire to do this, but like I said, I'm curious.  Any websites
> > with more information?
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Karyn
> >
> >
>
>




Article 26038 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: bhogan@bjgate.com (Brian Hogan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: How to entice bees to swarm to hive
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I have a very well established colony of bees in a make-shift hive (no
frames, just basically a wooden box). They swarmed three times this
year (back in early May) and are heavily bearding on the outside of
the hive, obviously over crowded again. They seemed to try to swarm on
Sunday, but it didn't amount to much. I've got a regular hive with a
few frames and wax-coated foundation about 80 feet away in the shade
on a 4 foot tall hive stand. Aside from using pheremone lures, is
there a way for me to get them to swarm to THAT hive?

Will placing raw honey and comb in and around the entrance to the hive
train them to swarm to it?

I've got some bait hives in the tree that the bees swarmed to before.
Bait hives have no lures, but face south, are about 15 feet off the
ground, have a 12" diameter, and have a volume of 1.4 cubic feet. Will
they swarm to these bait hives rather than the other hive which is
closer to the ground and a little farther away?

Thanks for any help.
Brian


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From: Peter Amschel <amschelp@pe.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to entice bees to swarm to hive
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That's an interesting situation, Brian. What R U trying to do, propogate 
colonies of bees for fun? Have you thought of drawing off some comb from 
your box hive so as to give mehr liebensraum to them?
 


In article <3973eb36.38197986@news.ipass.net>, bhogan@bjgate.com says...
> I have a very well established colony of bees in a make-shift hive (no
> frames, just basically a wooden box). They swarmed three times this
> year (back in early May) and are heavily bearding on the outside of
> the hive, obviously over crowded again. They seemed to try to swarm on
> Sunday, but it didn't amount to much. I've got a regular hive with a
> few frames and wax-coated foundation about 80 feet away in the shade
> on a 4 foot tall hive stand. Aside from using pheremone lures, is
> there a way for me to get them to swarm to THAT hive?
> 
> Will placing raw honey and comb in and around the entrance to the hive
> train them to swarm to it?
> 
> I've got some bait hives in the tree that the bees swarmed to before.
> Bait hives have no lures, but face south, are about 15 feet off the
> ground, have a 12" diameter, and have a volume of 1.4 cubic feet. Will
> they swarm to these bait hives rather than the other hive which is
> closer to the ground and a little farther away?
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> Brian
> 


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Fellow Beekeepers:
I have successfully reared  a few queens (by grafting from my favorite
hive) and once mated in my nucs, I caged and put into established hives.
One of the hives I could not find the old queen after a great deal of
searching on two consecutive days so I went ahead and installed the
queen cage.  There are many eggs present neatly laid and I think that
maybe the old queen recently died (no emergency cells though).  My
question is will the new queen win the death fight with the old queen
always?  Is it an even chance that this new queen is the winner?  I
remember reading somewhere that you don't have to destroy the old queen
when requeening.  This seems hard for me to accept though.  Your
thoughts will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dale, Indiana


Article 26041 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Hi Brian,

Brian Hogan wrote:
> 
> I have a very well established colony of bees in a make-shift hive (no
> frames, just basically a wooden box). They swarmed three times this
> year (back in early May) and are heavily bearding on the outside of
> the hive, obviously over crowded again. They seemed to try to swarm on
> Sunday, but it didn't amount to much. I've got a regular hive with a
> few frames and wax-coated foundation about 80 feet away in the shade
> on a 4 foot tall hive stand. Aside from using pheremone lures, is
> there a way for me to get them to swarm to THAT hive?

Assuming you want the bees in the regular hive, why don't you just
exchange positions of the hives during the day? The field force will end
up in your real hive. You can also try to cut any comb out of the wooden
box and prop it up in the new hive. That should get your queen to the
real box as well as preserving any brood, and giving them some pollen
and honey to use to get going.

You didn't mention where you are, but you might want to also feed them
in the new hive - esp since they have to draw new comb and winter's
coming.

-Steve

-- 
Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
ACE Kits, Support, Consulting             (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html


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>I feed my bees until they draw the second deep and I add a super. I know
>that there is probably some syrup still stored in the deeps and the bees
>may be moving this up to the super. I didn't add any dye to my syrup.
>How can I tell if the stuff being stored in my supers is honey and not
>just syrup moved up from the lower brood boxes.

if your honey is generally darker you can tell by color. Most syrup is clear
while honey is amber. You can also tell by tasting it. If you are still unsure
you can look up Thorne. its a beekeeping supply company in England. They sell a
PH tester for honey to tell whether its mostly syrup or honey.


Robert Williamson
Southeast Texas Honey Co.
P.O. Box 176
Vidor, Tx. 77670
" A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any prince"


Article 26043 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Masahiro Hasegawa" <hasegawa@atago.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How do I know if I have Honey or Syrup?
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Robert Williamson <texasdrone@cs.combees> wrote in message
news:20000718220818.25437.00001347@ng-fn1.news.cs.com...
> >I feed my bees until they draw the second deep and I add a super. I know
> >that there is probably some syrup still stored in the deeps and the bees
> >may be moving this up to the super. I didn't add any dye to my syrup.
> >How can I tell if the stuff being stored in my supers is honey and not
> >just syrup moved up from the lower brood boxes.
>
> if your honey is generally darker you can tell by color. Most syrup is
clear
> while honey is amber. You can also tell by tasting it. If you are still
unsure
> you can look up Thorne. its a beekeeping supply company in England. They
sell a
> PH tester for honey to tell whether its mostly syrup or honey.
>
>
> Robert Williamson


Hello, everyone.


How about using a refractometer?
Can it be used instead of pH tester??

It may be a stupid question but I am just curious.

In case both the syrup and the honey are of the same concentration (Brix
value), refractometer can't be applicable of course.

I would appreciate any comments.



Masahiro

hasegawa@atago.net





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From: npatt@snet.net
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Subject: UNUSUAL BEE TRAPPING PROBLEM
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7/19/00

Here's the deal...

I have one weak hive with a relatively new queen.


A scout camp nearby has a hive in the walls of a bunk house.


I do not have some frames of brood to spare at this time of year to trap the bees out of the walls.



Is there any way to get the bees in the bunk house to go into my weak hive using the method of a screen cone over the entrance to the bunk house hive?


I guess the problem is the scent of the two queens.  Is there any way to put these two hives in close proximity and trap the bees out of the bunk house into my weak 
hive and then rob out the bunk house hive?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

If you could E-mail me with suggestions I'd appreciate it


Norm

npatt@snet.net





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From: hamilton@pbssite.com (Dave Hamilton)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Re-Queening
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Have you checked for "critter tracks" around the hive .. maybe they
are having a nightly visitor like a skunk .. this makes them real
upset

Dave

On Tue, 18 Jul 2000 11:00:19 -0700, "J & N F."
<johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote:

>I have installed my new buckfast queen in a single hive body with
>brood/pollen, etc.; I brushed the bees through an excluder, sadly still not
>finding the old queen (filtered out quit a few drones!).  She may have been in
>the upper hive body.  The original hive stands on its original location, the
>new single is oriented differently.  Its been a few days,  I'll be checking to
>see she is released from her cage soon & then I'll check the old hive to see
>if the original queen is still active (or maybe I did her in during one of my
>searches, wouldn't hurt my feelings).  The original bees are so nasty.  Two
>days after one of my searches (which would understandably upset them, but two
>days later) I stood about 75' away  from the hive to check a young redwood
>tree I've planted.  Within 30 seconds I was being hit on the head, bees flying
>into my hair.  I first thought one was tangled in my hair & tried 'fluffing'
>it out so the bee could get away.  the loud angry sound should have given her
>away though!  I started walking further from the hive, numerous bees joined in
>the attack & by the time I got far enough away I had 4 stings in the neck.
>Yesterday I wanted to hang the irrigation hose up on the fence about 50' from
>the hive.  I stood deliberating whether to walk that close when one hit me in
>the head in an angry voice, so I left the hose on the ground a got away.  If
>the new queen doesn't improve the attitude, I'm afraid these guys are history.
>I can't have this kind of stuff going on.  There's so much in bloom & they
>have plenty of honey, etc. and the yellow jackets aren't bad yet, so I see no
>real reason from their rotten temperament.  I'll post back after my next
>'inspection'
>
>Niki
>
>--
>
>
>J & N F.
>
>Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
>Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
>
>
>"Allen Dick" <allendNOalSPAM@internode.net.invalid> wrote in message
>news:2594cf54.603ff047@usw-ex0105-035.remarq.com...
>> >I know I read here a thread about re-queening, but cannot find
>> it now. What is the recommendation for how much time hours/days)
>> before installing a new queen to remove the queen you are
>> replacing?  If it is too many days, will it be more difficult to
>> get the new queen accepted
>>
>> Because the circumstances can vary a lt over the year and
>> between locales, general principles are easiest to discuss.
>>
>> Introducing a new queen is easiest into small hives with young
>> bees and/or emerging brood and, not large hives or hives
>> dominated by old bees. Hives that are getting plenty of feed are
>> more friendly to new queens that those which are not.
>>
>> Large hives can be split temporarily to make a smaller unit with
>> young bees for accepting the new queen plus a second unit
>> consisting of the rest of the hive.  As soon as the new queen is
>> accepted, the parts can be recombined.  This can be done either
>> with or without finding the original queen.
>>
>> Here is one way to do this:
>>
>> First make up a single brood chamber with some brood and bees.
>> If the hive is huge, just lay it down on its back (use a ladder
>> or board for support so it does not fall apart) and pry off the
>> bottom box, then set the bottom aside several feet away and
>> facing a different direction on a new floor and supply a lid.
>> Stand the rest of the hive up on the original stand.
>>
>> Assuming the bees are flying freely and foraging a bit
>> (conditions essential to good acceptance of new queens) the
>> older bees will go home to the original stand and the number of
>> bees will be much reduced in the smaller unit.  At this point,
>> check the small hive carefully for a queen.  Hopefully, the
>> queen will be in the other hive.  If you have doubts, note the
>> brood area and wait up to 4 days, then check again.
>>
>> If there are no new eggs, then the queen is not there.
>> Introduce your new queen.  The young bees will accept her.
>>
>> If there are new eggs, then the queen is there and you must find
>> her or repeat the procedure on the large hive using the second
>> brood box instead.
>>
>> After the new queen is well accepted and laying, there are
>> several options:
>>
>> * Just put a queen excluder on top of the small hive and put the
>> larger hive on top.  Use newspaper too if the bees seem at all
>> cross.  Both queens will continue to work and you will have a
>> two queen colony. Who cares if the old queen is not perfect?
>> She will eventually disappear.
>>
>> * Switch the colonies on a good flying day and put the supers
>> from the large unit onto the new queen (if you are using an
>> excluder).  The remaining brood chamber with the old queen and
>> reduced populations can easily be dequeened and combined if
>> desired.
>>
>> * You can choose other options to suit your tastes and
>> circumstances.
>>
>> I write about my daily beekeeping experiences in the diary (URL
>> below) and cover many frequently mentioned topics there,
>> including this one.
>>
>> allen
>> ---
>> A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/
>> Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss,
>> fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping
>> bees, hive splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily
>> mumblings and more... Thousands served...
>>
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com.
>> Up to 100 minutes free!
>> http://www.keen.com
>>
>





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From: hcampb@my-deja.com
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Subject: Re: Great!
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 15:18:33 GMT
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In article <8l2sio$kgf$1@nnrp1.deja.com>,
  Pete <hrogers@arkansas.net> wrote:
>
>
>   ppataz@aol.com (PPatAZ) wrote:
> > HOW TO TURN 10 DOLLARS INTO 50,000.00
> ****************************************************
>
>   Howdy PP --
>
>    This is a forum for BEE FOLKS.  Please don't waste our
>    space and time!
>
>          Pete
>

    Right you are, Pete!!!!   If we wanted to get rich we sure wouldn't
be working with bees. LOL

    I heard that there is a lot of money in bee keeping - and most of
it comes out of the bee keeper's pocket. How true that is!  But I'm
fascinated with the little critters anyway.

                      Herb


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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I would like to know what happens when you have a clipped queen and the
hive "wants -needs to swarm" Since the Queen cannot fly and the old
queen is supposed to leave with the swarm.. how can they swarm. or what
does happen...
Carol Martin



Article 26048 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hamilton@pbssite.com (Dave Hamilton)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Clipped Queen.
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How about "what is suppose to happen"?

The queen exits but can't fly .. drops into the grass in front of hive
.. she crawls back to hive.  Swarm realizes the queen isn't with them
and returns.

Sounds like a fairy tale to me.

Dave

On Wed, 19 Jul 2000 12:39:27 -0500, Carol Martin
<carmar@goin.missouri.org> wrote:

>I would like to know what happens when you have a clipped queen and the
>hive "wants -needs to swarm" Since the Queen cannot fly and the old
>queen is supposed to leave with the swarm.. how can they swarm. or what
>does happen...
>Carol Martin
>





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From: Paul Petty <paulp@ims.com>
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Subject: Re: Clipped Queen.
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I don't clip my queens, but a fellow beekeeper who does reports it
begins like this, with the swarm issuing and returning.  The bees will
just wait a few days or a week for a virgin queen to emerge and then
they swarm out with her.  He says it just delays the inevitable, but the
delay may give him time to do something about it.

Paul
>How about "what is suppose to happen"?
>
>The queen exits but can't fly .. drops into the grass in front of hive
>.. she crawls back to hive.  Swarm realizes the queen isn't with them
>and returns.
>
>Sounds like a fairy tale to me.
>
>Dave
>
>On Wed, 19 Jul 2000 12:39:27 -0500, Carol Martin
><carmar@goin.missouri.org> wrote:
>
>>I would like to know what happens when you have a clipped queen and
the
>>hive "wants -needs to swarm" Since the Queen cannot fly and the old
>>queen is supposed to leave with the swarm.. how can they swarm. or
what
>>does happen...
>>Carol Martin
>>







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Clipping is all well and good for the short term to prevent a swarm from
leaving.  But, it just postpones the inevitable.  Not too long after they
return to the hive, the new queens will be emerging and kill the old one.
Then if they are still crowded, the new unclipped queen will lead the swarm.


Dave Hamilton <hamilton@pbssite.com> wrote in message
news:3975efe1.764906703@west.usenetserver.com...
> How about "what is suppose to happen"?
>
> The queen exits but can't fly .. drops into the grass in front of hive
> .. she crawls back to hive.  Swarm realizes the queen isn't with them
> and returns.
>
> Sounds like a fairy tale to me.
>
> Dave
>
> On Wed, 19 Jul 2000 12:39:27 -0500, Carol Martin
> <carmar@goin.missouri.org> wrote:
>
> >I would like to know what happens when you have a clipped queen and the
> >hive "wants -needs to swarm" Since the Queen cannot fly and the old
> >queen is supposed to leave with the swarm.. how can they swarm. or what
> >does happen...
> >Carol Martin
> >
>
>
>




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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: 20 Jul 2000 02:29:35 GMT
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Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Subject: Re: How do I know if I have Honey or Syrup?
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>I didn't add any dye to my syrup.
>How can I tell if the stuff being stored in my supers is honey and not
>just syrup moved up from the lower brood boxes?
>

I didn't know you can use Dye mix in Sugar Syrup? Does it works? What color?
                                   Tim


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From: texasdrone@cs.combees (Robert Williamson)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Book
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Hi,

I'm looking for a book published by Eva Crane entitled Honey: A comprehensive
study. Would be most grateful if some one could direct me where I could find a
copy or would be ecstatic to purchase it from someone who wants to sell theirs.



Robert Williamson
Southeast Texas Honey Co.
P.O. Box 176
Vidor, Tx. 77670
" A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any prince"


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Hi:
Try Larry Connor of Wicwas Press in CT., ljconnor@aol.com , or IBRA in
Gr.Br. ibra@cardiff.ac.uk .




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From: leggsafton@my-deja.com
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Subject: Re: VA Killer Bees???
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 15:58:00 GMT
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It was confirmed by state entomologists yesterday that they ARE "Killer
Bees" and are believed to have hitchiked here.


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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From: "Billy Y. Smart II" <Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com>
Subject: Re: How do I know if I have Honey or Syrup?
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Blue Taz37 wrote:

> I didn't know you can use Dye mix in Sugar Syrup? Does it works? What color?
>                                    Tim

I learned it from hk1beeman. Don't think it matters much what color, but it
will be visible in a capped frame. The reason I didn't put any in mine is that
all the books say not to expect honey from a package colony the first year. I
pulled my first super of comb off last weekend after installing 3 packages in
early April. I still have suflower, cotton, aster, and goldenrod flows to come
before the end of the season.

My books also say that bees don't read books.        ;-)

--
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */





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From: Charlie Kroeger <ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Keeping Bumble bees
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 14:02:29 -0500
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>My curiousity has been aroused.

I get called out this time of year to 'remove' bumblebee colonies.  Last year
I collected 4 in late summer.  With Bumbles it kind of depends on where you
live.  I see from you post header that you are in the 'pacbell' region, and
that can only mean the west coast of the U.S. and I don't know how the bumble
bees are out there, but in Amarillo, Texas they are big and dangerous.  I
cannot approach them in the day even wearing the capable Sheriff bee suit made
of a gossamer nylon that bees supposedly are unable to land;  this being true
for honeybees, it is not for our local Bumbles.

I have this infallible technique.  It involves a modified shop vac and a box
that will become the bumbles home.  I then remove the hive at NIGHT using a
red light.  The bees don't see the light and me and consequently they don't
fly.  They do however 'boil' out and crawl all over the place, (including the
beekeeper) and buzz and burrow in an unnerving way while doing so.  This was
the reason for the shop vac.  Now the job is simple.  I go at night, uncover
the entrance, give the hive a jolt and out they come like a bad nightmare.  

All the bees get sucked (gently) into a 'cage' until there are no more
crawling.  I then have to go in and remove their 'nest' of eggs that appear to
be made of wax, and look like small bird eggs all stuck together in 'sheets.'
The size of these sheets of eggs can be as large as a square foot, or just a
few eggs in a cluster.

These bees save no honey or pollen but put what they collect into the eggs
they raise or for their own use. That's pretty much the description of a
bumblebee colony in Amarillo, Texas.  They are 'messy' and trash the area they
use, then move on.  A good solution I think.

I've removed these bees from (thoughtlessly left) piles of cut grass in
alleys, holes in the ground, flower pots with plastic flowers on front
porches, and backyard storage sheds, where a large nest was in the arm of an
old couch, (maybe 300 bumblebees)  They take to their new boxes well, that is
the one they get sucked into, and carry on until winter.  None of them have
'over wintered' and none have come back to create a new colony in the old box.

They must however be somewhere near, as the bumblebee population has increased
around our house, as I see a lot more bumble bees now than before last year. 

They are the best pollinators, the 'pit bulls' of the pollinator world.  When
an Alfalfa blossom smacks a honey bee on the head, she's gone.  When a bumble
bee arrives, it likes it. It is this same toughness and indifference to being
threatened, that makes them so impressive when one disturbs their modest
colony.

Their hives are small and light as you might expect so they would be perfect
for transporting to greenhouses.  The Europeans already do this in a big way.
Check back last year in the archives for some interesting threads on raising
bumblebees commercially.  The secret is apparently out of the bag.

C.K.





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From: Charlie Kroeger <ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Book
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 14:24:39 -0500
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>Hi,

>I'm looking for a book published by Eva Crane entitled Honey: A comprehensive
>study.

Robert go to:

http://dogbert.abebooks.com/abe/BookSearch

I see they have 4 copies.

C.K.


 1. 
Crane Eva Walker Penelope: Directory Of Important World Honey Sources
Int Bee Research Ass1984 1st edition soft card covers very good 1984 . Book #
772
Price: US$ 26.86 convert currency
Presented by Trinity Rare Books, Carrick-on-Shannon, Leitr, Ireland
order options
  
 
 
 2. 
CRANE, Eva. THE WORLD HISTORY OF BEEKEEPING AND HONEY HUNTING.
Duckworth. London, 1999. First edition. Hardback. Dust jacket. 4to. xxi,682pp.
Many b/w illustrations, appendix, bibliography, indexes. Comprehensive history
from prehistoric times. Fine in about fine dustjacket. Book # A7675
Price: £ 60.00 (approx. US$ 89.54) convert currency
Presented by Any Amount of Books, London, ., United Kingdom
order options
  
 
 
 3. 
Crane, Eva. A Book Of Honey.
NY: Charles Scribner, (1980). First Edition. Octavo, brown paper covered
boards with gilt spine titles. 193pp. with index. A little gem with a
comprehensive treatment of every facet of honey including entomology, chemical
analyses as well as history and a number of classic and some obscure recipes.
Mead anyone? A tight clean volume with just a bit of yellowing to page edges
(acid paper) in a very near fine dust jacket with just a touch of edgewear. A
great copy of a scarce title. Book # 01697
Price: US$ 35.00 convert currency
Presented by Philip K. Core, Bookseller, Edgewood, PA, U.S.A.
order options
  
 
 
 4. 
Crane, Eva. The world history of beekeeping and honey hunting.
London: Duckworth, 1999. many illustrations. 682 pp., The first book to
explore in detail the world history of man's use of bees, from prehistoric
honey hunting to the modern industry. Bees, honey and wax have special
symbolic significance in both early beliefs and later world religions. Honey
hunting is shown in the rock art of four continents. Pictures of beekeeping
survive from Ancient Egypt, and hives or parts of them from Greece, Crete,
pre-Roman Spain and the Maya region of Mesoamerica. Binding is Quarto,
dustwrapper,. Book # 12879
Price: A$ 250.00 (approx. US$ 146.05) convert currency
Presented by Andrew Isles Natural History Books, Prahran, VIC, Australia
order options


Article 26058 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: c@usit.net (C)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: VA Killer Bees???
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Please tell us where here is.....


Thanks 

C.

In article <8l77hr$qk7$1@nnrp1.deja.com>, leggsafton@my-deja.com wrote:

> It was confirmed by state entomologists yesterday that they ARE "Killer
> Bees" and are believed to have hitchiked here.
> 
> 
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.


Article 26059 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Charlie Kroeger <ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: UNUSUAL BEE TRAPPING PROBLEM
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 14:18:09 -0500
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>Here's the deal...
>I have one weak hive with a relatively new queen.
>A scout camp nearby has a hive in the walls of a bunk house.
>I do not have some frames of brood to spare at this time of year to trap the bees out of the walls.

Forget about all that, a waste of time.  Just go in, remove the walls, and the
bees. 

refer to an earlier thread of 6.22.00 called:

>BEES IN OLD HOUSE HOW CAN I GET THEM OUT????

I described my method of removing bees from a wall cavity.

C.K.



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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Update Va. Killer bees
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Ok, Guys...A swarm of aggressive bees that killed a goat has been indentified
as Africanized bees. They are also reluctant to speculate much on How
Africanized honeybees, an Ill-tempered hybrid of African bees, found their way
to the area. They did say it had to be a case of "human-assisted transport". or
hives hitching a ride on ships, tractor-trailers ( I-64 is about mile there)
and train cars.
They were apparently a mixed colony said Day, who explained that old, abandoned
bee hives on Downey's property had been taken over by European honeybees. The
Africanized bees were found "bearding" or hanging in a clump' outside the hive.
" it appears that Africanized bees were taking over the European colony," said
Day. Back in January 96' said a swarm of Africanized honeybees was found in
Maine and traced back to a ship that had last docked in Norfolk, Va. Those bees
were simply put outside, where they froze. Also said there have been four
human-assisted transports of Africanized bees in  the Midwest and Mid-Atlantic
areas of the country since Jan. 2000. One in Huntington, West Va. involved a
hive found in a boxcar that came from San Antonio and is believed to have
originated in Brazil.
USDA officials said two nests were identified in Illinois, but Scott Frank of
the Illinois Agriculture Department said one in Decatur involved bees that were
already dead and he is unaware of a second finding.


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Subject: Re: How do I know if I have Honey or Syrup?
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>Don't think it matters much what color, but it
>will be visible in a capped frame.

You mean the comb will have color dye in it too after all by sugar feed mixed
with dye?
                      Tim


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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: 21 Jul 2000 02:32:10 GMT
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Subject: Black Drones
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 I just have a few question regard three band ltalian bees. I like the light
brown gold color Drones and I have some with dark black Drone. I was wonder if
I use a hand held Vac,. with little hose attactment to suck up black Drones and
save the others ( Gold color). That way when the Queen mate by gold band drones
and it might improvement more of gold color worker. Will it works? It just a
though. 
                                                                Tim


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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: 21 Jul 2000 02:41:07 GMT
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I've got six more week lelf, I check the super and it was full except 20% ( top
of the combs ) only caps. The rest of it still open. When six week are up,
maybe by then it will be 80% caps off, What should I do with other 20% that
were not cap? I don't want to end up sour honey. I though I should cut out the
cap and feed the rest uncap back to the hive ( after mix 50/50 water honey).
Thanks.
                                                             Tim


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From: "Tom" <beehive@apiary2.freeserve.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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"C" <c@usit.net> wrote in message
news:c-0807000526050001@dialup53.tnnas2.usit.net...
> Barry
>
> Please you must understand that the news media does not have to tell the
> truth, but only something that will sell news.
>
> C.
> > Please you must understand that the news media does not have to tell the
> truth, but only something that will sell news.
>
> C.
>
>Very much like Hollywood, judging by the latest film releases.
T





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From: "Chris Sauer" <sauer@mwci.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: add supers - still feed?
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Tom,

I think it was Dave Green who posted that he has dyed his syrup to see how
much goes up into the supers and mixes with the honey.  Even when no feeding
takes place with supers on, bees will move their stores up from the brood
boxes and we have to be careful not to adulterate our honey.  I usually stop
feeding before the flow starts and make sure the division board feeders are
empty before adding supers.

If you add more foundation before the bees have drawn 80-90% of the second
box, you risk them not finishing the job and going into winter with
foundation in the brood boxes.  You can speed things up by moving frames
with foundation towards the middle positions of the box.  Be sure not to
move frames with brood to the outer, cooler positions or you may get chilled
brood for your efforts.

Isn't this beekeeping stuff a blast?

chris
NE Iowa - 85 hives
www.greathoney.com




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From: "Bob Young" <boby@lakecountry.net>
Subject: Belize trip
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I am going to Belize, Central America, in October. I was wondering if
anyone had any beekeeper contacts there.
Bob Young
Lindale, TX



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If your makeshift hive is roughly the same dimensions as a standard hive, and
also has a removable top, you might want to place your empty hive body on top
and let them move up into that when they expand.

Otherwise, I would swap the locations of the two hives, letting the field bees
return to the old location with the standard hive body on it.  It would be
easier to requeen at the same time rather than trying to find your existing
queen; but if you have the time and the wherewithal to find her then you could
save a few bucks too.

It also my work simply by moving the old hive a few feet forward and turning it
around, then placing the new hive where the old hive was.  after a few days
most of your field bees should be in the new hive body.  Then you will have
fewer bees to mess with when you try to find your old queen.

Good luck.


Article 26068 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com>
References: <#VK3kgG7$GA.288@cpmsnbbsa09> <2594cf54.603ff047@usw-ex0105-035.remarq.com>
Subject: Re: Re-Queening
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 11:00:19 -0700
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I have installed my new buckfast queen in a single hive body with
brood/pollen, etc.; I brushed the bees through an excluder, sadly still not
finding the old queen (filtered out quit a few drones!).  She may have been in
the upper hive body.  The original hive stands on its original location, the
new single is oriented differently.  Its been a few days,  I'll be checking to
see she is released from her cage soon & then I'll check the old hive to see
if the original queen is still active (or maybe I did her in during one of my
searches, wouldn't hurt my feelings).  The original bees are so nasty.  Two
days after one of my searches (which would understandably upset them, but two
days later) I stood about 75' away  from the hive to check a young redwood
tree I've planted.  Within 30 seconds I was being hit on the head, bees flying
into my hair.  I first thought one was tangled in my hair & tried 'fluffing'
it out so the bee could get away.  the loud angry sound should have given her
away though!  I started walking further from the hive, numerous bees joined in
the attack & by the time I got far enough away I had 4 stings in the neck.
Yesterday I wanted to hang the irrigation hose up on the fence about 50' from
the hive.  I stood deliberating whether to walk that close when one hit me in
the head in an angry voice, so I left the hose on the ground a got away.  If
the new queen doesn't improve the attitude, I'm afraid these guys are history.
I can't have this kind of stuff going on.  There's so much in bloom & they
have plenty of honey, etc. and the yellow jackets aren't bad yet, so I see no
real reason from their rotten temperament.  I'll post back after my next
'inspection'

Niki

--


J & N F.

Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.


"Allen Dick" <allendNOalSPAM@internode.net.invalid> wrote in message
news:2594cf54.603ff047@usw-ex0105-035.remarq.com...
> >I know I read here a thread about re-queening, but cannot find
> it now. What is the recommendation for how much time hours/days)
> before installing a new queen to remove the queen you are
> replacing?  If it is too many days, will it be more difficult to
> get the new queen accepted
>
> Because the circumstances can vary a lt over the year and
> between locales, general principles are easiest to discuss.
>
> Introducing a new queen is easiest into small hives with young
> bees and/or emerging brood and, not large hives or hives
> dominated by old bees. Hives that are getting plenty of feed are
> more friendly to new queens that those which are not.
>
> Large hives can be split temporarily to make a smaller unit with
> young bees for accepting the new queen plus a second unit
> consisting of the rest of the hive.  As soon as the new queen is
> accepted, the parts can be recombined.  This can be done either
> with or without finding the original queen.
>
> Here is one way to do this:
>
> First make up a single brood chamber with some brood and bees.
> If the hive is huge, just lay it down on its back (use a ladder
> or board for support so it does not fall apart) and pry off the
> bottom box, then set the bottom aside several feet away and
> facing a different direction on a new floor and supply a lid.
> Stand the rest of the hive up on the original stand.
>
> Assuming the bees are flying freely and foraging a bit
> (conditions essential to good acceptance of new queens) the
> older bees will go home to the original stand and the number of
> bees will be much reduced in the smaller unit.  At this point,
> check the small hive carefully for a queen.  Hopefully, the
> queen will be in the other hive.  If you have doubts, note the
> brood area and wait up to 4 days, then check again.
>
> If there are no new eggs, then the queen is not there.
> Introduce your new queen.  The young bees will accept her.
>
> If there are new eggs, then the queen is there and you must find
> her or repeat the procedure on the large hive using the second
> brood box instead.
>
> After the new queen is well accepted and laying, there are
> several options:
>
> * Just put a queen excluder on top of the small hive and put the
> larger hive on top.  Use newspaper too if the bees seem at all
> cross.  Both queens will continue to work and you will have a
> two queen colony. Who cares if the old queen is not perfect?
> She will eventually disappear.
>
> * Switch the colonies on a good flying day and put the supers
> from the large unit onto the new queen (if you are using an
> excluder).  The remaining brood chamber with the old queen and
> reduced populations can easily be dequeened and combined if
> desired.
>
> * You can choose other options to suit your tastes and
> circumstances.
>
> I write about my daily beekeeping experiences in the diary (URL
> below) and cover many frequently mentioned topics there,
> including this one.
>
> allen
> ---
> A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/
> Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss,
> fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping
> bees, hive splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily
> mumblings and more... Thousands served...
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------
>
> Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com.
> Up to 100 minutes free!
> http://www.keen.com
>



Article 26069 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Steve Newport <steven@freenetname.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Belize trip
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:31:54 +0100
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Suggest you try these addresses. They may be able to help.

Embassy of the United States in Belize Gabourel Lane and Hutson Street
P.O. Box 286 Belize City, Belize, C.A. Telephone: (501 2) 77161
Facsimile: (501 2) 30802

Embassy of Belize in the United States 2535 Massachusetts Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20008 Telephone: (202) 332-9636 Facsimile: (202)
332-6888

Belize Chamber of Commerce and Industry 63 Regent Street P.O. Box 291
Belize City, Belize, C.A. Telephone: (501 2) 74394 / 75108 Facsimile:
(501 2) 74984




On Tue, 18 Jul 2000 13:22:06 GMT, "Bob Young" <boby@lakecountry.net>
wrote:

>I am going to Belize, Central America, in October. I was wondering if
>anyone had any beekeeper contacts there.
>Bob Young
>Lindale, TX



Article 26070 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Billy Y. Smart II" <Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com>
Subject: How do I know if I have Honey or Syrup?
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Group,

I feed my bees until they draw the second deep and I add a super. I know
that there is probably some syrup still stored in the deeps and the bees
may be moving this up to the super. I didn't add any dye to my syrup.
How can I tell if the stuff being stored in my supers is honey and not
just syrup moved up from the lower brood boxes?

--
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */





Article 26071 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Pete <hrogers@arkansas.net>
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Subject: Re: Great!
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 00:26:15 GMT
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  ppataz@aol.com (PPatAZ) wrote:
> HOW TO TURN 10 DOLLARS INTO 50,000.00
****************************************************

  Howdy PP --

   This is a forum for BEE FOLKS.  Please don't waste our
   space and time!

         Pete

So much to learn - So little time !
**************************************************


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 26072 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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>West Va. involved a
>hive found in a boxcar that came from San Antonio and is believed to have
>originated in Brazil.

Wow they tracked them all the way from Brazil.

C.K.


Article 26073 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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>But I'm
>fascinated with the little critters anyway.
>
>                      Herb

Beekeepers are born and not made Herb, you were just unlucky.

C.K.


Article 26074 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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>They were apparently a mixed colony said Day, who explained that old,
>abandoned
>bee hives on Downey's property had been taken over by European honeybees. The
>Africanized bees were found "bearding" or hanging in a clump' outside the
>hive.
>" it appears that Africanized bees were taking over the European colony,"

How would they do this? Anybody know?

Regards,

Robert Brenchley

RSBrenchley@aol.com


Article 26075 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 07:23:42 EDT
From:  <ftekpuentes@UBmail.ubalt.edu>
Subject: Bee Museum
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I found this on the Agrisynergy list.

joseph in NC


----------
From: "ARS News Service" <isnv@ars-grin.gov>
To: "ARS News List" <ars-news@ars-grin.gov>
Subject: Bee Museum Houses World-Class Collection
Date: Thu, Jul 20, 2000, 6:36 AM


STORY LEAD:
Bee Museum Houses World-Class Collection

___________________________________________

ARS News Service
Agricultural Research Service, USDA
Marcia Wood, (510) 559-6070, mwood@asrr.arsusda.gov
July 20, 2000
___________________________________________

One of the world's top 10 bee museums--the U.S. National Pollinating
Insects
Collection in Logan, Utah--safeguards specimens of nearly 1 million bees,
wasps and other insects. The collection not only houses little-known bees
that are native to the United States, but also boasts a unique array of
colorful, exotic bees from around the world including Mexico, Costa Rica
Argentina, and Spain.

The collection is part of the Agricultural Research Service's Bee Biology
and Systematics Laboratory, located on the campus of Utah State University
in Logan.  ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief research
agency.

Bees repose snugly in neat arrays within the museum's 1,600 drawers.  The
insects  range in size from the petite Perdita minima, a light tan,
1/8-inch-long bee that lives in the Sonoran and Mojave Deserts, to the
imposing 1.5-inch-long Xylocopa frontalis, or carpenter bee, a brown or
blackish-brown insect from Central and South America.

A steady stream of requests to help identify bees pours into the
laboratory
all year, according to curator Terry L. Griswold, a research entomologist.
In 1999, the museum identified a record-breaking 15,100 specimens sent in
from all over the world plus an additional 75,000 specimens collected by
Griswold and colleagues.

Some requests come from beekeepers who need help identifying strange bees
that have wandered into wooden blocks meant to house other species. Other
inquiries come from agricultural officials who inspect cargo at airports
and
shipping terminals, looking for invasive insects that could threaten
America's fields and orchards.

Homeowners beleaguered by bees that have taken up residence in the walls
of
a bedroom or garage similarly want to know the identity of the unwanted
house guests. And, researchers eager to learn about bees they've recently
collected from places near and far will often find out from Griswold that
they've discovered a new species.


___________________________________________

Scientific contact: Terry L. Griswold, ARS Bee Biology and Systematics
Laboratory, Logan, Utah, phone (435) 797-2524, fax (435) 797-0461,
beeweb@cc.usu.edu.
___________________________________________
This item is one of the news releases and story leads that ARS Information
distributes on weekdays to fax and e-mail subscribers. You can also get
the
latest ARS news on the World Wide Web at
www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm.
* Feedback and questions to ARS News Service via e-mail:
isnv@ars-grin.gov.
* ARS Information Staff, 5601 Sunnyside Ave., Room 1-2251, Beltsville MD
20705-5128, (301) 504- 1617, fax (301) 504-1648.








Article 26076 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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We are fast approaching the season for menthol T-mite treatments.
However, a friend warned that the use of menthol when the weather is too
hot can cause the bees to abandon their hive.  Does anyone know if this
is true?  The menthol packets say not to use them unless the daytime
temperatures are >70F but don't indicate a maximum temperature.  Our
temperatures in the Memphis, Tennessee, USA area can fluctuate wildly in
the early fall, easily moving from 70s to 90s in a couple of days.  Will
this be problematic?

Thanks,

Bill Daniels



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From: "Billy Y. Smart II" <Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com>
Subject: Re: How do I know if I have Honey or Syrup?
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Blue Taz37 wrote:

> >Don't think it matters much what color, but it
> >will be visible in a capped frame.
>
> You mean the comb will have color dye in it too after all by sugar feed mixed
> with dye?
>                       Tim

Don't know about that. I have never actually tried it.

--
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */





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Looking for advice after an 'oops'...

I had 40+ pounds of newly-extracted honey sitting in a plastic barrel,
tightly covered (but probably not airtight), in a room in my house
waiting for the bubbles/foam to gather on the surface before bottling.
Someone started using that room to stain wood using oil-based gel stain.
Before I realized what was going on, it had gotten kind of stinky in
there from the stain. We opened more windows and used a fan to ventilate
the room quicker, but it had probably been a few hours of stinkiness
before I realized what was going on.

I tasted some of the honey and I don't notice anything odd, but I'm
wondering if anyone has good info on whether it's likely that the honey
is no longer suitable for sale or eating.

Any info or advice is greatly appreciated... thanks in advance.

-Steve


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In article <3978C2F2.28886DCB@riverace.com>, Steve Huston
<shuston@riverace.com> writes:

>
>I tasted some of the honey and I don't notice anything odd, but I'm
>wondering if anyone has good info on whether it's likely that the honey
>is no longer suitable for sale or eating.
>

honey can pick up off flavors this way, ask 2-3 folks to independently taste
the honey, dont tell them why, just ask them to describe the taste, smell, etc.
If it has an off flavor, they should tell you.    


Article 26080 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "David Eyre" <info@beeworks.com>
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Subject: Re: Revised site.
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For those interested in such things, I have just put up a revised web site.
Our 'Hints & Tips' pages are well worth a visit.
    Vistors Welcome.
David Eyre
http://www.beeworks.com
admin@beeworks.com





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From: Pete <hrogers@arkansas.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Does honey pick up fumes?
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 22:40:21 GMT
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  Steve Huston <shuston@riverace.com> wrote:

> I tasted some of the honey and I don't notice anything odd, but I'm
> wondering if anyone has good info on whether it's likely that the
> honey is no longer suitable for sale or eating.

>Steve
*********************************************************

   Howdy Steve --

   If you and your family can not detect the taste or odor, it was
probably not absorbed.

  A beekeeper told me that he had made bottom and top boards from
aromatic red cedar and that it did flavor the honey.  Probably because
the odor was present during the entire process of ripening nectar and
reducing it to honey.

        Pete

So much to learn - So little time !
**************************************************


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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From: Peter Amschel <amschelp@pe.net>
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Subject: Re: Keeping Bumble bees
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Too cool Charlie, you should submit that advanced bumblebee knowledge 
information to the Encyclopedia Britannica



In article <qfgens0kmm95abs6lbtc5l94bbgk1vnuf8@4ax.com>, 
ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com says...
> >My curiousity has been aroused.
> 
> I get called out this time of year to 'remove' bumblebee colonies.  Last year
> I collected 4 in late summer.  With Bumbles it kind of depends on where you
> live.  I see from you post header that you are in the 'pacbell' region, and
> that can only mean the west coast of the U.S. and I don't know how the bumble
> bees are out there, but in Amarillo, Texas they are big and dangerous.  I
> cannot approach them in the day even wearing the capable Sheriff bee suit made
> of a gossamer nylon that bees supposedly are unable to land;  this being true
> for honeybees, it is not for our local Bumbles.
> 
> I have this infallible technique.  It involves a modified shop vac and a box
> that will become the bumbles home.  I then remove the hive at NIGHT using a
> red light.  The bees don't see the light and me and consequently they don't
> fly.  They do however 'boil' out and crawl all over the place, (including the
> beekeeper) and buzz and burrow in an unnerving way while doing so.  This was
> the reason for the shop vac.  Now the job is simple.  I go at night, uncover
> the entrance, give the hive a jolt and out they come like a bad nightmare.  
> 
> All the bees get sucked (gently) into a 'cage' until there are no more
> crawling.  I then have to go in and remove their 'nest' of eggs that appear to
> be made of wax, and look like small bird eggs all stuck together in 'sheets.'
> The size of these sheets of eggs can be as large as a square foot, or just a
> few eggs in a cluster.
> 
> These bees save no honey or pollen but put what they collect into the eggs
> they raise or for their own use. That's pretty much the description of a
> bumblebee colony in Amarillo, Texas.  They are 'messy' and trash the area they
> use, then move on.  A good solution I think.
> 
> I've removed these bees from (thoughtlessly left) piles of cut grass in
> alleys, holes in the ground, flower pots with plastic flowers on front
> porches, and backyard storage sheds, where a large nest was in the arm of an
> old couch, (maybe 300 bumblebees)  They take to their new boxes well, that is
> the one they get sucked into, and carry on until winter.  None of them have
> 'over wintered' and none have come back to create a new colony in the old box.
> 
> They must however be somewhere near, as the bumblebee population has increased
> around our house, as I see a lot more bumble bees now than before last year. 
> 
> They are the best pollinators, the 'pit bulls' of the pollinator world.  When
> an Alfalfa blossom smacks a honey bee on the head, she's gone.  When a bumble
> bee arrives, it likes it. It is this same toughness and indifference to being
> threatened, that makes them so impressive when one disturbs their modest
> colony.
> 
> Their hives are small and light as you might expect so they would be perfect
> for transporting to greenhouses.  The Europeans already do this in a big way.
> Check back last year in the archives for some interesting threads on raising
> bumblebees commercially.  The secret is apparently out of the bag.


Article 26083 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Steven Elmore <sbelmoreNOsbSPAM@usa.net.invalid>
Subject: Bulgarian Honey
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I have been working with an Bulgarian beekeeper on the
north Black Sea coast.  He has an expected yield of 3500 kg
of honey from about 100 hives for this year.  This has been
a bad drought year (70 days without any rain), but no sugar
supplements have been given, regardless.  Four types of
honey have been produced: rapeseed, acacia, mixed herb, and
sunflower.  In addition to honey, 1/2 kg of wax per hive is
extracted and sold.  About 200 queens a year are produced
in this apiary and supplied to local beekeepers.

This beekeeper has produced a film of his works that is
available to those who are interested.  Bulgaria has a
great climate for beekeeping as the biodiversity here is
some of the richest in Europe.

In general, what is the average yeild per hive in America?
Europe?  Australia?  What are the main flowers used for
honey production (America and elsewhere)?  How often are
queens changed (America and elsewhere)?  What is an average
price per kilo a beekeeper can expect to get for honey in
bulk?

Any information you can supply would be excellent.
Cheers,
Steve




* Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful


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From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1)
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Subject: Hive Scale
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Where can you find one?  Have looked all over the place and can't find.   Can
you rig up home bathroom scale(s) so they might do the trick?  Thnx!




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thanks for the update...do you have a source (ideally available on-line) for
the information?




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Subject: Re: Can menthol cause hive abandonment?
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menthol works well as a bee repellent when volatilizing rapidly and can
cause temporary hive abandonment or even possible absconding depending on
concentration/ambient temperatures...
suggest a maximum in the 80's, but you'd have to monitor them carefully, not
always easy to do.




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LKLarson1 <lklarson1@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000722052900.04587.00000344@ng-fh1.aol.com...
> Where can you find one?  Have looked all over the place and can't find.
Can
> you rig up home bathroom scale(s) so they might do the trick?  Thnx!
>

According to articles in Bee Culture written by Lloyd Spears, a regular
bathroom scale can be used.  Put a piece of 2x4 under one end of the hive,
then the scale under the other end.  The weight times two, minus 20 lbs per
deep hive body ,approximately equals the amount of honey.>




Article 26088 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com>
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Well, we do have skunks in our area (just ask our one dog who goes wacko
whenever she gets a whiff of one, even though she's chased them down & been
badly sprayed several times!).  I don't seen any signs of molestation around
the hive, but I'm not sure what I'd be seeing.  There is a lot of dry grass,
reasonably tall, so tracks would not show up.  What does a skunk do to the
hive?  I could visualize a raccoon sticking his paw in there, but don't know
what kind of irritation the skunk could do (other than the obvious smell).
North of us in the mountains, beekeepers have their hives overturned by bears
at night, wouldn't that be terrible to have to deal with!  The hive is behind
our house nearest our bedroom window, which is always open, so I think I might
smell a visiting skunk.  The chicken yard is between the hive & the house as
well, for the same reason that I can hopefully hear if marauding foxes come to
eat chickens during the night!

I visited the hives yesterday, & they were noticeably less hostile, perhaps
because I had divided them up to establish the nuc colony, so there were less
of them in each hive (you know, that divide & conquer mentality).  I'm happy
to say my new buckfast queen was released from her cage & is busily laying
eggs.  The frames had many bees & they weren't too ornery either (it is odd,
they've been ornery since last year, and worse the last 6 weeks or so).  The
original hive, I had to search for the queen again, since I had not found her.
As I had suspected (when searching the hive body last time), she had moved up
to the upper hive body, and yesterday, I discovered she was up in the first
honey super, where I found & removed her.  She was a big red one.  Since I've
never handled the queens before, I took the opportunity to practice, knowing
if something bad happened, I was intending to be rid of her anyway.  I know
queens have stings & read they only use them to fight off challenging queens,
but was still nervous (been stung too many times the last month or so).  I let
her crawl on my hand until I could hold the three legs on one side of the body
& also marked her with typewriter correction fluid (as my one book said that
was OK to use).  All went well, I had her in a jar in the house for a couple
hours (one with holes in the lid).  About an hour after I had marked her I
noticed she was becoming lethargic & looking poorly.  I thought maybe she had
become cold, being in a glass jar & without her attendants.  In fact as I
watched, she looked like she was about dead.  As an experiment, I retrieved
half a dozen bees from the hive & placed them with her.  They immediately
surrounded her and began grooming her, and she looked very dead.  Then after a
few minutes she began moving & crawling around as their attentions continued.
How long can a queen survive without attendants?  I know they always ship the
queen with attendants.  I was very careful not to hold her body, just the legs
on one side of the body.  As I said, I just wanted to use the opportunity to
practice & learn some about the queen, but any thoughts about why she began to
die like that would be helpful.  I don't know how sensitive they are to
temperature & glass is cold, or maybe the stress of me keeping her confined &
handling her for that long.  Any thoughts for my own education are
appreciated.

 All in all, things went well yesterday, my new queen is set up, I placed the
remaining hive body & supers on top of the buckfasts' hive & am looking
forward to how they develop.  It was a good day!
Niki

--


J & N F.

Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.


"Dave Hamilton" <hamilton@pbssite.com> wrote in message
news:3975a764.746349937@west.usenetserver.com...
> Have you checked for "critter tracks" around the hive .. maybe they
> are having a nightly visitor like a skunk .. this makes them real
> upset
>
> Dave
>
> On Tue, 18 Jul 2000 11:00:19 -0700, "J & N F."
> <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote:
>
> >I have installed my new buckfast queen in a single hive body with
> >brood/pollen, etc.; I brushed the bees through an excluder, sadly still not
> >finding the old queen (filtered out quit a few drones!).  She may have been
in
> >the upper hive body.  The original hive stands on its original location,
the
> >new single is oriented differently.  Its been a few days,  I'll be checking
to
> >see she is released from her cage soon & then I'll check the old hive to
see
> >if the original queen is still active (or maybe I did her in during one of
my
> >searches, wouldn't hurt my feelings).  The original bees are so nasty.  Two
> >days after one of my searches (which would understandably upset them, but
two
> >days later) I stood about 75' away  from the hive to check a young redwood
> >tree I've planted.  Within 30 seconds I was being hit on the head, bees
flying
> >into my hair.  I first thought one was tangled in my hair & tried
'fluffing'
> >it out so the bee could get away.  the loud angry sound should have given
her
> >away though!  I started walking further from the hive, numerous bees joined
in
> >the attack & by the time I got far enough away I had 4 stings in the neck.
> >Yesterday I wanted to hang the irrigation hose up on the fence about 50'
from
> >the hive.  I stood deliberating whether to walk that close when one hit me
in
> >the head in an angry voice, so I left the hose on the ground a got away.
If
> >the new queen doesn't improve the attitude, I'm afraid these guys are
history.
> >I can't have this kind of stuff going on.  There's so much in bloom & they
> >have plenty of honey, etc. and the yellow jackets aren't bad yet, so I see
no
> >real reason from their rotten temperament.  I'll post back after my next
> >'inspection'
> >
> >Niki
> >
> >--
> >
> >
> >J & N F.
> >
> >Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> >Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
> >
> >
> >"Allen Dick" <allendNOalSPAM@internode.net.invalid> wrote in message
> >news:2594cf54.603ff047@usw-ex0105-035.remarq.com...
> >> >I know I read here a thread about re-queening, but cannot find
> >> it now. What is the recommendation for how much time hours/days)
> >> before installing a new queen to remove the queen you are
> >> replacing?  If it is too many days, will it be more difficult to
> >> get the new queen accepted
> >>
> >> Because the circumstances can vary a lt over the year and
> >> between locales, general principles are easiest to discuss.
> >>
> >> Introducing a new queen is easiest into small hives with young
> >> bees and/or emerging brood and, not large hives or hives
> >> dominated by old bees. Hives that are getting plenty of feed are
> >> more friendly to new queens that those which are not.
> >>
> >> Large hives can be split temporarily to make a smaller unit with
> >> young bees for accepting the new queen plus a second unit
> >> consisting of the rest of the hive.  As soon as the new queen is
> >> accepted, the parts can be recombined.  This can be done either
> >> with or without finding the original queen.
> >>
> >> Here is one way to do this:
> >>
> >> First make up a single brood chamber with some brood and bees.
> >> If the hive is huge, just lay it down on its back (use a ladder
> >> or board for support so it does not fall apart) and pry off the
> >> bottom box, then set the bottom aside several feet away and
> >> facing a different direction on a new floor and supply a lid.
> >> Stand the rest of the hive up on the original stand.
> >>
> >> Assuming the bees are flying freely and foraging a bit
> >> (conditions essential to good acceptance of new queens) the
> >> older bees will go home to the original stand and the number of
> >> bees will be much reduced in the smaller unit.  At this point,
> >> check the small hive carefully for a queen.  Hopefully, the
> >> queen will be in the other hive.  If you have doubts, note the
> >> brood area and wait up to 4 days, then check again.
> >>
> >> If there are no new eggs, then the queen is not there.
> >> Introduce your new queen.  The young bees will accept her.
> >>
> >> If there are new eggs, then the queen is there and you must find
> >> her or repeat the procedure on the large hive using the second
> >> brood box instead.
> >>
> >> After the new queen is well accepted and laying, there are
> >> several options:
> >>
> >> * Just put a queen excluder on top of the small hive and put the
> >> larger hive on top.  Use newspaper too if the bees seem at all
> >> cross.  Both queens will continue to work and you will have a
> >> two queen colony. Who cares if the old queen is not perfect?
> >> She will eventually disappear.
> >>
> >> * Switch the colonies on a good flying day and put the supers
> >> from the large unit onto the new queen (if you are using an
> >> excluder).  The remaining brood chamber with the old queen and
> >> reduced populations can easily be dequeened and combined if
> >> desired.
> >>
> >> * You can choose other options to suit your tastes and
> >> circumstances.
> >>
> >> I write about my daily beekeeping experiences in the diary (URL
> >> below) and cover many frequently mentioned topics there,
> >> including this one.
> >>
> >> allen
> >> ---
> >> A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/
> >> Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss,
> >> fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping
> >> bees, hive splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily
> >> mumblings and more... Thousands served...
> >>
> >>
> >> -----------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com.
> >> Up to 100 minutes free!
> >> http://www.keen.com
> >>
> >
>
>
>



Article 26089 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Teri Bachus" <bachmoz@aug.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Update Va. Killer bees
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 14:49:07 -0400
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wonder how the finding of ahb will affect the plight of beekeeping in
va./usa?

Killer bees blamed for attack in Virginia
http://www.spokane.net:80/news-story-body.asp?Date=072100&ID=s828974&cat=

Bees Lose Sting
Mites From Asia Kill Off the Bee Colonies
http://abcnews.go.com:80/sections/science/DailyNews/bees_disappear000719.htm
l





Article 26090 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: rec01rec@my-deja.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: definition of drawn comb
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 19:22:17 GMT
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does drawn comb mean just that the bees have made comb on a frame, or
does it imply that they have done more (like brood, pollen, honey, etc)?
(for example when they say put on an additonal brood chamber when bees
have drawn 7 or 8 frames what do they mean by drawn)

thanks - stupid question but am curious

ron


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 26091 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Jorn Johanesson" <Jorn_Johanesson@apimo.dk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Nordic beekeeping
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Hello beekepers!

At Apimondia in Vancouver CA a publication was put up for free about
beekeeping in scandinavia. You can get this as a PDF file (Adobe Acrobat) on
my webside.

While you are at it take a look at the Whats new page to see what is goingg
on with the EDBi beekeeping sogtware.

I have also made online a bugreport page and a suggestion page to make it
eseay for you to get bugs fixed and suggestion brought into new editions of
the software.

The hot news is paperfree hivenote taking.

Please help me to get this software the best you can get.

best regards

--
 EDBi = multilingual Beekeeping software since 1987
 http://apimo.dk (USA)
Jorn_Johanesson@apimo.dk




Article 26092 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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"J & N F." wrote:

> I don't seen any signs of molestation around the hive, but I'm not sure what I'd
> be seeing.

>  What does a skunk do to the hive?

Hello Niki,

I saw a skunk working one of my hives last year.  It would scratch at the entrance
and the bees would
come out to see what was going on.  Then the skunk would smash the bees and eat
them.  If you see
dirty paw prints on the landing board or around the entrance it could be a skunk.


Jerry





Article 26093 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: definition of drawn comb
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My interpretation would be that the bees have drawn the comb out and have used
it for storage or brood.


Article 26094 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Formic acid results from NC
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Good to be back from a spell i guess, hope ya'll are well.

As for the Apicure Formic acid treatment.

It arrived far too late, was a pain to use, evaporated within 18 days.

Result : 6 out of 25 hives DEAD, the remainder may build back up in time to
survive the winter. The formic acid  along with the mites will decimate a weak
hive, not even worth trying. while a slightly weak hive next to it with apistan
will survive.

I will not order it again, I hope never to use it again. Never again will I put
my trust in a promised delivery date on a untried product. ( I had a choice of
course, more expensive apistan or cheaper apicure) believe me Back ordered
apicure turned out to be far more expensive in the long run !!

No there was no beach trip this year, and there won't be honey money for
christmas presents this year either.

Oh Btw, I couldn't afford to keep buying the materials for so many bee vac's at
one time anymore so Brushy Mtn has stopped selling them.
If any of ya still want one let me know, guess i could build a couple at a
time.

well thats bout it i guess, ya'll take care
Big Johnson out............


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC



Article 26095 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Peter Amschel <amschelp@pe.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Formic acid results from NC
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Buck up, hk1beeman! Where I come from, up in the Bighorns in north 
central Wyoming, we never allow a discouraging word to be heard. You 
survived that incredible flood which swamped all those dirty jewish hog 
farms, don't forget. Your spell was probably jewish sewage hog poisoning 
syndrom (JSHPS), which at least goes away and which is at least not as 
bad as jewish mad cow disease (JBSBD)(jewish bovine spongiform brain 
disease). 
Like my mom always says: "there's nothing so bad but what it couldn't get 
worse" or "aside from that, Mrs. Lincoln, how did you enjoy the play?"


In article <20000723003040.15190.00000641@ng-cf1.aol.com>, 
hk1beeman@aol.com says...
> Good to be back from a spell i guess, hope ya'll are well.
> 
> As for the Apicure Formic acid treatment.
> 
> It arrived far too late, was a pain to use, evaporated within 18 days.
> 
> Result : 6 out of 25 hives DEAD, the remainder may build back up in time to
> survive the winter. The formic acid  along with the mites will decimate a weak
> hive, not even worth trying. while a slightly weak hive next to it with apistan
> will survive.
> 
> I will not order it again, I hope never to use it again. Never again will I put
> my trust in a promised delivery date on a untried product. ( I had a choice of
> course, more expensive apistan or cheaper apicure) believe me Back ordered
> apicure turned out to be far more expensive in the long run !!
> 
> No there was no beach trip this year, and there won't be honey money for
> christmas presents this year either.
> 
> Oh Btw, I couldn't afford to keep buying the materials for so many bee vac's at
> one time anymore so Brushy Mtn has stopped selling them.
> If any of ya still want one let me know, guess i could build a couple at a
> time.
> 
> well thats bout it i guess, ya'll take care
> Big Johnson out............
> 
> 
> Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC
> 
> 


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bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) wrote:
>
> I just have a few question regard three band ltalian bees. I
like the light
>brown gold color Drones and I have some with dark black Drone.
I was wonder if
>I use a hand held Vac,. with little hose attactment to suck up
black Drones and
>save the others ( Gold color). That way when the Queen mate by
gold band drones
>and it might improvement more of gold color worker..


Tim  The characteristics of your drones are determined by the
Queen only as they are reared from unfertilized eggs.  if you
want to keep the strain you like then requeening is the way to
go. Removing the Drones won't change this bunch of workers
regardless  It is unlikely that the Dark Drones would be the
only ones available for future queen mating flight.    If you
have a hive that you would like to duplicate, make a nuc  with a
frame of eggs and let the bees raise a Queen for you.  Watch the
new queen's brood in a month and a half and see if they're what
you wanted.
 Best of luck to you

Keith



-----------------------------------------------------------

Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com.
Up to 100 minutes free!
http://www.keen.com



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From: "mbelluso" <mbelluso@megsinet.com>
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Subject: Is this a disease?
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Hello all,

This is my first year and for the most part my bees (NWC) are doing quite
well.  However, when I went into the hive recently, I noticed something that
resembled sawdust on the upper portion of the comb on one frame.  I suppose
it might have been fine crumbles of wax when I pulled out the honey laiden
frame.  Never having seen this before this season or in any of the books
/web that I have read, I was hoping that someone might bear with me long
enough  to pass on some experienced suggestions or possibilities.  The hive
seems to be strong with many workers and drones.  There were some uncapped
(larva/eggs) but not as many as I thought there should be.  I did not see my
marked queen that day, but was not too concerned, she likes to hide
sometimes.  I figured the new larva were good enough.

So, my questions?  1.  Ideas about the (sawdust?)
 2. How do I decide whether my first year queen is laying adequately or
whether I should requeen?
 3.  When requeening, must I use the same breed for acceptance or would
Italian or Buckfast etc. be okay?

Sorry if my ignorance is showing, but sometimes we all need a little help or
advice.  Thanks much.
--
Michael & Yolanda Belluso
3889 S. Rte 115
Kankakee, IL  60901-7184
815-935-2650
ymbelluso@yahoo.com





Article 26098 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Teri Bachus" <bachmoz@aug.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: bad tempered bees
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suggest you contact appropriate state/federal authorities and make samples
available to them for "positive" identification...see article "Wayward
Killer Bees Blamed for Va. Attack" online at:
http://search.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/WPlate/2000-07/20/326l-072000-idx.ht
ml

for more details on the problematic methodologies for official ahb/ehb
determinations, see earlier threads in this newsgroup on "VA killer bees???"
and "ahb in southwest usa"...better safe than sorry!




Article 26099 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hamilton@pbssite.com (Dave Hamilton)
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Subject: Re: Re-Queening
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Glad to hear everything went well .. I think introducing queens into a
nuc is the best way.

Skunks leave behind characteristic little balls of chewed up bees

Dave




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From: "Teri Bachus" <bachmoz@aug.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Formic acid results from NC
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sorry to hear about your losses...formic acid, much like menthol and other
essential oils, is highly dependent on concentration/release rates which
vary with delivery methods/ambient temperatures (suppossedly in the 70's is
optimal)...there's a fine line between effectiveness (mite control) and
toxicity (bee kills)...btw, what are you asking for the bee vacs (instead of
brushy mntn.'s inflated prices?)





Article 26101 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: n.s.birchall@lboro.ac.uk (Stephen Birchall)
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Subject: Borage Honey
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 15:15:35 +0100
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I recently bought a jar of honey in Nottinghamshire (UK) that was labelled
as borage honey. I find this surprising, as borage isn't one of the
regularly listed forage plants in the UK. The honey is fairly light and
tasteless and I am wondering if it is authentic.

Does anybody out there produce borage honey ?

Any other comment ?

Steve


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Sawdust is likely insect frass perhaps a spot in the hive inaccessable to bees
harbored a wax moth.

Once things are cooking in the hive you should see.

eggs
2x as many uncapped larvae as eggs
2x as many capped larvae as uncapped

3 days as an egg
6 days as uncapped larvae
12 days as capped larvae

21 days and emerge


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


Article 26103 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Oh please! Is this drivel really necessary? Is this cowboy logic, or Arian Nation
poison?

Peter Amschel wrote:

> Buck up, hk1beeman! Where I come from, up in the Bighorns in north
> central Wyoming, we never allow a discouraging word to be heard. You
> survived that incredible flood which swamped all those dirty jewish hog
> farms, don't forget. Your spell was probably jewish sewage hog poisoning
> syndrom (JSHPS), which at least goes away and which is at least not as
> bad as jewish mad cow disease (JBSBD)(jewish bovine spongiform brain
> disease).
> Like my mom always says: "there's nothing so bad but what it couldn't get
> worse" or "aside from that, Mrs. Lincoln, how did you enjoy the play?"
>
> In article <20000723003040.15190.00000641@ng-cf1.aol.com>,
> hk1beeman@aol.com says...
> > Good to be back from a spell i guess, hope ya'll are well.
> >
> > As for the Apicure Formic acid treatment.
> >
> > It arrived far too late, was a pain to use, evaporated within 18 days.
> >
> > Result : 6 out of 25 hives DEAD, the remainder may build back up in time to
> > survive the winter. The formic acid  along with the mites will decimate a weak
> > hive, not even worth trying. while a slightly weak hive next to it with apistan
> > will survive.
> >
> > I will not order it again, I hope never to use it again. Never again will I put
> > my trust in a promised delivery date on a untried product. ( I had a choice of
> > course, more expensive apistan or cheaper apicure) believe me Back ordered
> > apicure turned out to be far more expensive in the long run !!
> >
> > No there was no beach trip this year, and there won't be honey money for
> > christmas presents this year either.
> >
> > Oh Btw, I couldn't afford to keep buying the materials for so many bee vac's at
> > one time anymore so Brushy Mtn has stopped selling them.
> > If any of ya still want one let me know, guess i could build a couple at a
> > time.
> >
> > well thats bout it i guess, ya'll take care
> > Big Johnson out............
> >
> >
> > Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC
> >
> >





Article 26104 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Christopher Dainton" <dainton@globalnet.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: badgers
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 18:34:37 +0100
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A friend has obtained a site for bees which is near a badger set.
Would this matter.
Do badgers bother bee hives
Thanks for any advice
Chris
Gloucester UK




Article 26105 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: 24 Jul 2000 00:01:31 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Subject: two queens + earwigs
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I have a hive with two queens (one entrance).  About 6 weeks ago , I found
brood way upstairs (third level), found the queen and moved her to the bottom,
put on a queen excluder, added a comb super and called it a day.   Several
weeks ago (maybe it was close to a month, I noticed there was still brood
upstairs, but thought it was left over youngsters that hadn't hatched yet.  
Today, not only was there loads of brood (below and above) but two queens!  
They can't get at each other except through the excluder but obviously haven't
done so.

My question--with one entrance, wouldn't the field bees be fighting?  I have
noticed when walking by some "commotion" before, thinking it was just the hot
weather, etc.   What I'm thinking of doing is removing the queen excluder,
putting the upper level over the brood chamber and letting them fight it out,
with the excluder on the top of these two (practically full) hive bodies and
putting an empty one on top.   Do you agree with the logic?   Both bees seem to
have good brood patterns, although the lower one has more drone cells.

As a "PS" question, when I opened this hive, lots of earwigs scrambled for
cover(  on the top of the inner cover)--do they hurt anything and should I be
concerned?

Thanks!

P.S.--I did get some great comb honey today and gorged myself on this
mid-summer harvest.   Happy tasting to you.




Article 26106 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Billy Y. Smart II" <Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com>
Subject: Black stuff in cells around brood
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Group,

Was inspecting a hive over the weekend and in on I found a brood comb
that had a layer of cells filled with a black liquid. It surrounded the
brood in a way I expect to see pollen. Any ideas as to what it is? There
was only one comb with it. The colony is strong otherwise.

--
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */





Article 26107 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: gfdavis@usit.net"
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Subject: bad tempered bees
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		I was tending to my hives and had placed some bottom
boards on three hives and added 4 supers to other hives. I had one
hive that had swarmed in early spring I had put a hive top for a
bottom board  and was going to replace. I lifted the whole hive up and
over and the bees poured out and  I was stung through my suit and one
even cgot inside my veil. They followed me and were quite persistent,
they also stung my dog . I then got my smoker going and went back and
smoked them good.  I live in southwest va. and I am a little skidish
since hearing of the ahb near by. I have read that skunks visting
hives can make them cross and have smelled one at times lately. The
other hives were calm and I had done simular things to other hives
with out a problem. How can I tell if ahb are present? Would there be
alot of ehb dead on the ground if ahb take over, are they colored up
like ehb, and if skunk problem will putting down lime around hives
keep him away?


Article 26108 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How do I know if I have Honey or Syrup?
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>> >Don't think it matters much what color, but it
>> >will be visible in a capped frame.
>>
>> You mean the comb will have color dye in it too after all by sugar feed
>mixed
>> with dye?
>>                       Tim

greetings ya'll from the ol fart his self !!!

the use of simple food coloring works very well. buy it at any super market,
usually in the cake decorating area.

after they consume the syrup the cell will be clean, no color remains unless
it's been there over a couple of years.


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC



Article 26109 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: mbarton15653@my-deja.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: pollen identification
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 18:17:38 GMT
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Amazed by the variety of pollen colours being brought back to the hive!-
can anyone suggest a good classification chart/book which would help me
identify the sources?
Thanks, Mick (Manchester UK


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 26110 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Charlie Kroeger <ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Formic acid results from NC
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 14:31:33 -0500
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>Oh please! Is this drivel really necessary? Is this cowboy logic, or Arian Nation
>poison?

I thought it was pretty funny.  He was relating to earlier post from way back
last year.  I don't think 'Jewish' owned hog farms necessarily points to arian
nation type propaganda, it's just a joke.

This group is weak in humour; when it is posted, it's always taken wrong by
someone.  The age of information doesn't mean the age of understanding.

You were however right about drivel, it is the age of drivel.

C.K.

-- 
"It is dangerous to be right when the government is wrong." - Voltaire




Article 26111 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "rpned" <rpned@starwon.com.au>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Extracter
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Some one locally, Western Australia, asked me to look up an extracter
capable of spinning the honey and wax of plastic foundation combs.

Apparently he has heard they exist.

A quick search hasn't turned it up.

Any info would be appreciated. Please reply direct as well as to the list,
as am not able to get on line on a daily basis.

Regards

Robert P. Nederpelt
http://www.starwon.com.au/~rpned/
"Government is not reason, it is not eloquence, it is force;
like fire, a troublesome servant and a fearful master."
-- George Washington, speech of January 7, 1790





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From: "Barry Metz" <junee.apiaries@interact.net.au>
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I'd expect that it wouldn't be necessary to by a purpose built machine but
rather change the pulleys on an existing extractor to increase the rpm to a
sufficient level.
The mechanics of it are not that difficult but you can contact me if you
need any further info.

--
Barry Metz
rpned <rpned@starwon.com.au> wrote in message
news:397b9f01@usenet.per.paradox.net.au...
> Some one locally, Western Australia, asked me to look up an extracter
> capable of spinning the honey and wax of plastic foundation combs.
>
> Apparently he has heard they exist.
>
> A quick search hasn't turned it up.
>
> Any info would be appreciated. Please reply direct as well as to the list,
> as am not able to get on line on a daily basis.
>
> Regards
>
> Robert P. Nederpelt
> http://www.starwon.com.au/~rpned/
> "Government is not reason, it is not eloquence, it is force;
> like fire, a troublesome servant and a fearful master."
> -- George Washington, speech of January 7, 1790
>
>
>




Article 26113 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Keith B. Forsyth" <ad387@hwcn.org>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: pollen identification
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 16:37:51 -0400
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Here are the titles of 3 texts that may be of help:
A Colour Guide to Pollen Loads of the Honey Bee-William Kirk
The Pollen Loads of the Honey -Bee Dorothy Hodges
Pollen Identification for  Beekeepers- Rex Sawyer
Try IBRA for availability, email ibra@cardiff.ac.uk .
Keith




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Where are you located?


Article 26115 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter)
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Subject: Re: Formic acid results from NC
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Free Ham


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


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From: "Peter Edwards" <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: badgers
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They don't bother them - they just destroy them!

"Christopher Dainton" <dainton@globalnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8lhvkt$sfq$1@gxsn.com...
> A friend has obtained a site for bees which is near a badger set.
> Would this matter.
> Do badgers bother bee hives
> Thanks for any advice
> Chris
> Gloucester UK
>
>




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From: "Peter Edwards" <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Borage Honey
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 23:43:56 +0100
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Borage  is being grown commercially in the UK for the health food market -
the oil is sold as Star Flower Oil - mainly, I think, in the North East and
the East Midlands.

The crop can be very good (up to 200lbs per hive), although this year the
unseasonable weather will not help (the crop is in flower now, but will
probably be cut - swathed - very soon).

The honey is very pale, almost silvery white, and has a very high sucrose
content (up to 28% has been recorded, although the average is probably under
15%) and this has caused great problems for beekeepers as the 'honey' is
illegal under EC regulations.  Trading standards officers have, however,
agreed to allow sales until the legal situation is resolved (a derogation
has recently been agreed).  It does not set easily, as would be expected for
a low glucose, very high sucrose honey.

The flavour is, to my taste, very poor indeed - rather like eating sugar
syrup - although it is apparently popular with some customers.

There is anecdotal evidence that bees do not winter well on  it.

"Stephen Birchall" <n.s.birchall@lboro.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:n.s.birchall-2407001515350001@pmac-cdnsb.lut.ac.uk...
> I recently bought a jar of honey in Nottinghamshire (UK) that was labelled
> as borage honey. I find this surprising, as borage isn't one of the
> regularly listed forage plants in the UK. The honey is fairly light and
> tasteless and I am wondering if it is authentic.
>
> Does anybody out there produce borage honey ?
>
> Any other comment ?
>
> Steve




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From: "Christopher Dainton" <dainton@globalnet.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: badgers
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 23:49:10 +0100
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Oh dear
Its a bit like the bear debate again
Would it be worth putting a fence around?

Peter Edwards wrote in message <8lihj7$t8n$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk>...
>They don't bother them - they just destroy them!
>
>"Christopher Dainton" <dainton@globalnet.co.uk> wrote in message
>news:8lhvkt$sfq$1@gxsn.com...
>> A friend has obtained a site for bees which is near a badger set.
>> Would this matter.
>> Do badgers bother bee hives
>> Thanks for any advice
>> Chris
>> Gloucester UK
>>
>>
>
>




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From: Pete <hrogers@arkansas.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to remove a hive from my deck
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 01:41:24 GMT
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>  "Terisa"  wrote:
> Hello all you bee experts!
> I have recently found this huge bee hive under my back deck. Is there
> any way to get them to abandon the hive ?
>
> Terisa
*****************************************************

Howdy Terisa --

   Inquire locally about a beekeeper to get them out.  Water will not
drive them away (after all, that's their only home). They can not
survive the winter where they are, and the season is far advanced.
They need to be recovered quickly so they can build up for winter.

  It is good that you do not want to kill them.  We need all the
colonies we can get.  Pollination is of utmost importance.

          Pete

So much to learn - So little time !
**************************************************


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: definition of drawn comb
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 > rec01rec@my-deja.com wrote:
> does drawn comb mean just that the bees have made comb on a frame, or
> does it imply that they have done more (like brood, pollen, honey,
> etc)? (for example when they say put on an additonal brood chamber
> when >bees have drawn 7 or 8 frames what do they mean by drawn)
******************************************************

  Howdy recrec --

  It might help to use the term "drawn foundation".  We give frames
containing foundation (which is just the imprint of the BASE of the
cells). The bees use the wax they secrete to build out the walls of the
cells.  Thus it is drawn.  The cells are put to use before they reach
full depth, for storing nectar, pollen, and brood.

          Pete

So much to learn - So little time !
**************************************************


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Mead recipes?
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Hello,

I've had a great year (for me with only one hive) this summer. Thought I
would try my hand at a mead with some of the surplus. Does anyone have a
great Raspberry melomel recipe? Or any other relatively easy one that I
could take a crack at? Please any info will help. In the mean time I scour
the net.

Thanks
Gabe Redler






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From: Pete <hrogers@arkansas.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: bad tempered bees
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> gfdavis wrote:
> 		I was tending to my hives and had placed some bottom
> boards on three hives and added 4 supers to other hives. I had one
> hive that had swarmed in early spring I had put a hive top for a
> bottom board  and was going to replace. I lifted the whole hive up and
> over and the bees poured out and  I was stung through my suit and one
> even got inside my veil. They followed me and were quite persistent,
> they also stung my dog . I then got my smoker going and went back and
> smoked them good.  I live in southwest va. and I am a little skidish
> since hearing of the ahb near by. I have read that skunks visting
> hives can make them cross and have smelled one at times lately. The
> other hives were calm and I had done simular things to other hives
> with out a problem. How can I tell if ahb are present? Would there be
> alot of ehb dead on the ground if ahb take over, are they colored up
> like ehb, and if skunk problem will putting down lime around hives
> keep him away?
****************************************************************

   Howdy gf --

  Remember that all the guard bees are on the bottom board.  The only
thing I know of which will make them madder is to let a hive fall out of
the truck when being moved.

  A little smoke BEFORE the storm does wonders.

           Pete
So much to learn - So little time !
**************************************************


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: 25 Jul 2000 02:19:51 GMT
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Subject: Re: Extracter
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>Some one locally, Western Australia, asked me to look up an extracter
>capable of spinning the honey and wax of plastic foundation combs.
>
>Apparently he has heard they exist.
>

I've had a Webs site how to build your own Extracter with 2,4,6,8 and 10 frame.
After I just bought new computer, Dang, done lost it. I'm just about to finish
my homemade Extracter for less than $60.00.


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From: "Dave" <davekern@hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Is there something going on?
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Strange, for the past two weeks or so I have noticed a little more entrance
standing than normal.  On one side of the landing about 20 bees are hanging
around.  Three or four of them have their rumps in the air and are fanning
(like they would when you first hive them).  During the middle of the day I
have noticed a lot of activity, many bees much pollen.  In the evenings,
even though it is warm, it is a little slower, only a bee or two every five
seconds or so.

Can anyone suggest a cause for all the landing pad party?

Thanks,
Dave





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Well, Any answer about save uncapped? 

                                    >maybe by then it will be 80% caps off,
What should I do with other 20% that
>were not cap? I don't want to end up sour honey.
                                 Tim



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From: "Shari Sanford" <sanford@monmouth.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: rose honey
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Has anyone found their ladies storing a lovely rose pink honey with a very
floral-almost lavender scent and well rounded kind of flavor?  When I opened
up my TBH last week there were several normal-light wild flower honey combs
but also 5 lovely bars of this pretty pink stuff.  Even in the comb it is
pronouncedly pink  No, I didn't feed red syrup... Any ideas?  I'm in NJ and
this is a hive just started this spring from a Nuc.  They are going like
gangbusters and making their neighbors (my first hive) look lazy!

Shari




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Hello,

I've had a great year (for me with only one hive) this summer. Thought I
would try my hand at a mead with some of the surplus. Does anyone have a
great Raspberry melomel recipe? Or any other relatively easy one that I
could take a crack at? Please any info will help. In the mean time I scour
the net.

Thanks
Gabe Redler






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From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to entice bees to swarm to hive
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Brian Hogan <bhogan@bjgate.com> wrote in message
news:3973eb36.38197986@news.ipass.net...
> I have a very well established colony of bees in a make-shift hive (no
> frames, just basically a wooden box). They swarmed three times this
> year (back in early May) and are heavily bearding on the outside of
> the hive, obviously over crowded again. They seemed to try to swarm on
> Sunday, but it didn't amount to much. I've got a regular hive with a
> few frames and wax-coated foundation about 80 feet away in the shade
> on a 4 foot tall hive stand. Aside from using pheremone lures, is
> there a way for me to get them to swarm to THAT hive?
>
> Will placing raw honey and comb in and around the entrance to the hive
> train them to swarm to it?
>
> I've got some bait hives in the tree that the bees swarmed to before.
> Bait hives have no lures, but face south, are about 15 feet off the
> ground, have a 12" diameter, and have a volume of 1.4 cubic feet. Will
> they swarm to these bait hives rather than the other hive which is
> closer to the ground and a little farther away?
>
> Thanks for any help.
> Brian

I am only going on the information you have given thus far, it may be that
there are details you have omitted,  but under regular circumstances this is
what i would do,  artificially swarm them.
I am assuming the hive to where you wish to move them presently isn't
populated...?
i would move the permanent hive to where the make shirt hive now stands and
simply shake the bees into the permanent hive.
Better still if the bees have built comb in the make shift one, find some
comb with larvae in it move it to the new hive, shake the bees into the hive
and place the old box near the new entrance,  the bees should follow the
others in, especially if some larvae comb has been transferred.
Bees are attracted by larvae.
hope that helps
carman






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From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Hobby Beekeeping in the UK ..?
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 17:40:10 +1200
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Greetings All
I have been reading my latest edition of out local Beekeepers newsletter.
There is a comment in it which says that in the UK,  the majority of
hobbyist Beekeepers quit beekeeping because of the problems associated with
Varroa Mite.
Is this correct?
I'm interested in the UK experience
and the experience anywhere else for that matter
many thanks
carman





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From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Varroa & Nasturtiums
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Greetings All
i recently heard a fellow hobbyist telling of someone who grows nasturtiums
all around their beehives,  the nasturium grower is said to never hade an
attack of Varroa Mite,  he put this down to the naturtiums.

I am wondering if it is possible that nasturtiums somehow repell the varroa.
I know nasturtiums have a peppery flavour and i'm wondering if that
flavour... or aroma... would somehow repel Varroa
and
whether there would also be other plants that the bees come in contact with
that may have similar effetc
anyone know?
carman




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From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Essential oils and Varroa...?
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Greetings All
I found a website with "results of research using essential oils for Honey
Bee Mite control"

http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/varroa/varroa2.htm#Timing

I am interested to know whether anyone here has tried these?
many thanks
carman






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Gabe,
Here are a couple of web pages about about mead you can start scouring:
http://www.eklektix.com/gfc/mead/
http://www.circus.com/~omni/mead.html

Please share with the group if you happen upon a terrific raspberry melomel
recipe.
Good luck!

Karyn


"gabeX" <shrikez@aol.com> wrote in message news:9u6f5.575$GY5.7517@news02...
> Hello,
>
> I've had a great year (for me with only one hive) this summer. Thought I
> would try my hand at a mead with some of the surplus. Does anyone have a
> great Raspberry melomel recipe? Or any other relatively easy one that I
> could take a crack at? Please any info will help. In the mean time I scour
> the net.
>
> Thanks
> Gabe Redler
>
>
>
>
>




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From: Pete <hrogers@arkansas.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Is there something going on?
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> "Dave"wrote:
> Strange, for the past two weeks or so I have noticed a little more
>entrance standing than normal.  On one side of the landing about 20
>bees are hanging around.  Three or four of them have their rumps in the
>air and are fanning (like they would when you first hive them).  During
>the middle >of the day I have noticed a lot of activity, many bees much
>pollen.  In the evenings, even though it is warm, it is a little
>slower, only a bee >or two every five seconds or so.
> Can anyone suggest a cause for all the landing pad party?

> Dave
**********************************************************

   Howdy Dave -

     Sounds like the fanning is just getting their air conditioning
(circulation) going because of the summer temperatures.

    Rememer that the nectar will evaporate after enough exposure to high
summer temperatures.  This may account for the slow-down in late
afternoon.

                 Pete
So much to learn - So little time !
**************************************************


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I started 2 new hives this season in NW New Jersey from nucs, brand new
outfit, no drawn comb to start with ..

I now have 2 full brood boxes on each hive with 1 honey super on each
hive with the comb almost all drawn out and getting full with honey ...

2 questions, when do I add the next honey super?, when the most of the
comb is capped? at present most of the 9 frames have been drawn and are
getting heavy ...

next question ... do I leave 1 honey super on each hive to ensure enough
food over the winter (in addition to the 2 brood boxes) or can I harvest
all of the honey supers?

I read the thread on leaving the honey supers on all year and consensus
seems to be that ..that honey supers should be removed and harvested, I
want to make sure that I'm leaving enough for the colonies over winter.

Ed


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Stephen Birchall wrote:

> Does anybody out there produce borage honey ?


Yep.

> 
> Any other comment ?

We don't have a lot of borage so I'm probably overstating to say that
we produce borage honey as such,  but it does flower during a lull in
the other flows here and the bees love to work it.  It gets mixed into
what we call "Clover & Herb" honey and the total mixture is quite
good.  Sorry I can't be of any more help than that...

Skip


Skip and Christy Hensler
THE ROCK GARDEN
Newport, Wash.
http://www.povn.com/rock


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From: "Graham Read" <graham_read@hotmail.com>
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You best bet for second hand equpment is your local club, but check out
www.hampshirebka.freeserve.co.uk - follow link (on the left) to Beekeeping
equipment suppliers. There are several auctions of beekeeping equipment held
in Hampshire. There might be some more local to you aswell perhaps.

Always get a more experienced beekeeper to check the equipment for you
before buying - you can pick up some good second equipment, but you (your
bees that is!) can also pick up some nasty bee disease if your unlucky.
Sterilise all equipment with a blow torch or caustic soda (some local pine
stripping companies might allow use of their caustic soda tanks).

Happy beekeeping
Graham (Hampshire, UK)

Hugh Kernohan <kernohan@netcomuk.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8ko05j$p3p$1@taliesin2.netcom.net.uk...
> I'm a brand new and indeed accidental beekeeper, having had a prime swarm
> land in the garden in early June which I have subsequently hived in a
> British National.  I gave them 11 frames of foundation and from week 2 on
> have had a block of bee candy in over the glass quilt as the summer here
in
> the UK has been unreliable, wet and cold.  As of last weekend, they had
> established well with the extreme end frame on either end still untouched,
> but the inner face of the next frame in on either side being drawn out.
> There's plenty of brood and they are storing some honey.  When should I
put
> on a super?
>
> I've read that I'm not likely to be able to remove honey this year but
want
> them to store enough from the late July/August flowering to be able to
tide
> them over the winter.
>
> Supplementary question - should I assume that I have to requeen next
spring?
> Opinion seems to be divided as to whether it's an old or young queen that
> will have been in the swarm, but with the balance on the old queen.
>
> I live in South East London (and have made contact with the Bromley
> Beekeepers Club who have been very helpful).
>
> Anyone know where I can buy second hand kit eg a second hive and supers
for
> this one?
>
> Thanks
> SJL
>
>




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John F. Killick
2200 Queen  Street
Regina, Saskatchewan
Canada S4T 4C5
Phone: (306) 522-0243

Attention Amsoil Dealers:

You are in danger of losing your Business.   This is not a Hoax.  Get up to
speed on the events that are threatening your business and your income check
out my site at: http://www.geocities.com/johnkillick/documents_1.html

This could be the most import mouse click you will ever make

zo330125









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For info:
Hampshire Beekeepers' Association web site is available at:
www.hampshirebka.freeserve.co.uk. Primarily aimed at beekeepers in and
around Hampshire, UK, but I hope there's something of interest for everyone.
Graham






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>They followed me and were quite persistent,
>they also stung my dog . I then got my smoker going and went back and
>smoked them good.

Why do you keep a smoker?
Smoke first then fool around in the hive.
Sounds like you have a hive a little more defensive than most good candidate
for a new queen.


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


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Tom Allen wrote:
> 
> I've heard and can imagine that a fight to the death would take a toll on
> the winner, old or new, and should be avoided for queen health and
> prosperity.
> 
> "Dale Scheidler" <dscheidl@wp.bsu.edu> wrote in message
> news:39731526.BD9@wp.bsu.edu...
> > Fellow Beekeepers:
> > I have successfully reared  a few queens (by grafting from my favorite
> > hive) and once mated in my nucs, I caged and put into established hives.
> > One of the hives I could not find the old queen after a great deal of
> > searching on two consecutive days so I went ahead and installed the
> > queen cage.  There are many eggs present neatly laid and I think that
> > maybe the old queen recently died (no emergency cells though).  My
> > question is will the new queen win the death fight with the old queen
> > always?  Is it an even chance that this new queen is the winner?  I
> > remember reading somewhere that you don't have to destroy the old queen
> > when requeening.  This seems hard for me to accept though.  Your
> > thoughts will be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dale, Indiana
I wrote this original thread here.  I checked that hive where I
introduced my marked queen that I produced and it was not accepted!  The
queen present was an unmarked one and I believe that she was there when
searching for the "old"queen, but was small and very young and I could
not see her.  The whole personality of this hive made me think that the
queen was not there.  Oh well, this endeavor was a great learning
experience.
Thanks,
Dale,Indiana


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Hello all you bee experts!
I have recently found this huge bee hive under my back deck. Is there any
way to get them to abandon the
hive with out killing them all or hiring someone to come in an remove it. We
really don't have the money to
higher someone and was looking for any suggestions. If I flood it from above
with water will they leave? I really
don't want to kill them with anything just want to relocate them.

Thanks for any suggestions,

Terisa





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You bet
Lots of badgers here in the UK
Big debate as to whether they should be protected or culled
Went to a badger watch last week
Saw 12 at a protected badger set
Fascinating
Dont think Ill keep bees near that place though

Perhaps my friend will put a small fence around his nuc box and see how it
goes
Cheers
Chris
>
>This is OT but I am curious. Are there badgers in the UK? I thought they
>were a product of the Americas.






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Subject: Re: Essential oils and Varroa...?
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In article <8lj9ds$rub$1@news.wave.co.nz>,
  "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote:
> Greetings All
> I found a website with "results of research using essential oils for
Honey
> Bee Mite control"
>
> http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/varroa/varroa2.htm#Timing
>
> I am interested to know whether anyone here has tried these?
> many thanks
> carman
>
   We tried it during 1999 and believe it works. My daughter and I
haven't worked up enough courage yet to try a hive without Apistan or
Bayer strips to see if the oil alone will protect from mites, but we
are sure it helps in the manner described on the site you furnished. ie
interfering with the reproductive cycle of the mites.
    The method we use is to mix about 40 drops of wintergreen oil in a
few spoonfuls of honey and then add that mixture to a gallon of syrup
after it has cooled from boiling, but is still warm. Then we feed the
syrup in entrance feeders.  We fed syrup for several months during the
winter even though here in NW Florida there were not many days that the
bees did not forage.
     Every so often we check bottom boards and usually find no more
than a couple of mites. We got all excited a few weeks ago when we
found 8 Varroa mites on the bottom board of a fairly large colony. But
then read here where someone wrote about finding 130 and the hive was
still doing fine. So I guess 8 is OK.
Sincerely,

   Herb and Cindy


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Thanks, I thought about the fanning to cool the hive, but wasn't sure they
would do it so late in the day.  I did not know that fact about nector.

Thanks again,
Dave

Pete wrote in message <8lja0a$vcu$1@nnrp1.deja.com>...
>
>
>> "Dave"wrote:
>> Strange, for the past two weeks or so I have noticed a little more
>>entrance standing than normal.  On one side of the landing about 20
>>bees are hanging around.  Three or four of them have their rumps in the
>>air and are fanning (like they would when you first hive them).  During
>>the middle >of the day I have noticed a lot of activity, many bees much
>>pollen.  In the evenings, even though it is warm, it is a little
>>slower, only a bee >or two every five seconds or so.
>> Can anyone suggest a cause for all the landing pad party?
>
>> Dave
>**********************************************************
>
>   Howdy Dave -
>
>     Sounds like the fanning is just getting their air conditioning
>(circulation) going because of the summer temperatures.
>
>    Rememer that the nectar will evaporate after enough exposure to high
>summer temperatures.  This may account for the slow-down in late
>afternoon.
>
>                 Pete
>So much to learn - So little time !
>**************************************************
>
>
>Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
>Before you buy.




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From: rec01rec@my-deja.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Weird Looking Comb (pic attached)
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 23:37:40 GMT
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One of my hives has some really weird looking comb on one of the
frames...it sticks out further than all the other comb and seems to
have a tunnel in it that bees fly in and out of. (All my other comb is
normal).

weird comb pic at - http://www.rec.cnchost.com/bees/sc00010.jpg
general hive pics  at - http://www.rec.cnchost.com


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 26147 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Christopher Petree" <ingenbees@mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Beekeepers Needed
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 21:54:30 -0400
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Hello Everyone! I would like to announce InGen Bees new message board.
Simply go to www.InGenBees.com and you will find a link to the board on the
main page. I need some experienced beekeepers as well as others to answer
questions people have. Any help would be most useful!

Thanks,

Pete
InGen Beekeeping Supplies Co.





Article 26148 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Essential oils and Varroa...?
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 14:28:01 +1200
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Most excellent !!
thanks for sharing your story
I shall save the details of how you have used the wintergreen
and invest in some post haste
also open to any further suggestions
carman


<hcampb@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:8ll5v9$dc1$1@nnrp1.deja.com...
> In article <8lj9ds$rub$1@news.wave.co.nz>,
>   "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote:
> > Greetings All
> > I found a website with "results of research using essential oils for
> Honey
> > Bee Mite control"
> >
> > http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/varroa/varroa2.htm#Timing
> >
> > I am interested to know whether anyone here has tried these?
> > many thanks
> > carman
> >
>    We tried it during 1999 and believe it works. My daughter and I
> haven't worked up enough courage yet to try a hive without Apistan or
> Bayer strips to see if the oil alone will protect from mites, but we
> are sure it helps in the manner described on the site you furnished. ie
> interfering with the reproductive cycle of the mites.
>     The method we use is to mix about 40 drops of wintergreen oil in a
> few spoonfuls of honey and then add that mixture to a gallon of syrup
> after it has cooled from boiling, but is still warm. Then we feed the
> syrup in entrance feeders.  We fed syrup for several months during the
> winter even though here in NW Florida there were not many days that the
> bees did not forage.
>      Every so often we check bottom boards and usually find no more
> than a couple of mites. We got all excited a few weeks ago when we
> found 8 Varroa mites on the bottom board of a fairly large colony. But
> then read here where someone wrote about finding 130 and the hive was
> still doing fine. So I guess 8 is OK.
> Sincerely,
>
>    Herb and Cindy
>
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.




Article 26149 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: 26 Jul 2000 02:17:24 GMT
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Subject: Re: Essential oils and Varroa...?
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Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:26149

> The method we use is to mix about 40 drops of wintergreen oil in a
>few spoonfuls of honey and then add that mixture to a gallon of syrup
>after it has cooled from boiling, but is still warm. Then we feed the
>syrup in entrance feeders

I use 4 Wintergreen or Peppermint candy in a cup of hot water and let it set
overnight and than mix it in gallon syrup. They really love it. I think it alot
cheaper that way?


Article 26150 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: 26 Jul 2000 02:22:43 GMT
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Subject: Re: Varroa & Nasturtiums
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Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:26150

>I am wondering if it is possible that nasturtiums somehow repell the varroa.
>I know nasturtiums have a peppery
 

 I don't know for sure, I have few Beekeeping ask for my Peppermint Plants  at
the creek. I can smell it 20yd. before u know it was there. I was thinking of
grin up leaves and mix it in sugar water.
                           Tim


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The Great Walter Kelly said "a clipped queen is unstable on the
comb and is subject to supercedure sooner than an unclipped".
I'm not sure if that holds true today, but since a clipped queen
will surely die if the hive decides to swarm, I do not clip
queens.  I feel that if she has served me well, and I'm not
sharp enough to keep her from swarming, then by all means, have
your freedom.  If I lose my bees to a swarm, it's my fault, not
hers.


-----------------------------------------------------------

Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com.
Up to 100 minutes free!
http://www.keen.com



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Subject: Re: Mead recipes?
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There is an easy one at

www.libertybee.com

Dave

On Tue, 25 Jul 2000 01:57:25 GMT, "gabeX" <shrikez@aol.com> wrote:

>Hello,
>
>I've had a great year (for me with only one hive) this summer. Thought I
>would try my hand at a mead with some of the surplus. Does anyone have a
>great Raspberry melomel recipe? Or any other relatively easy one that I
>could take a crack at? Please any info will help. In the mean time I scour
>the net.
>
>Thanks
>Gabe Redler
>
>
>
>





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For On-Line Information click on the URL below:
http://www.cam.org/~biology
 



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From: Steve Newport <steven@freenetname.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Hobby Beekeeping in the UK ..?
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Membership over all I believe has fallen. Certainly has in Sussex

On Wed, 26 Jul 2000 09:58:47 +0100, "Graham Read"
<graham_read@hotmail.com> wrote:

>I'd echo Peters reply. Our local membership numbers have dropped a similar
>level - i.e about halved, but now are also recovering slightly. On a related
>note in Hampshire (UK) we've just completed a survey of most hampshire
>clubs, the
>age profile of beekeepers, type of work they do etc if your interested - see
>http://www.hampshirebka.freeserve.co.uk/BeeTalk/2000/March/Article_117_01_00
>_1.html
>


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From: Steve Newport <steven@freenetname.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Borage Honey
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:20:43 +0100
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On Mon, 24 Jul 2000 23:43:56 +0100, "Peter Edwards"
<edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:

>Borage  is being grown commercially in the UK for the health food market -
>the oil is sold as Star Flower Oil - mainly, I think, in the North East and
>the East Midlands.

I believe research is being done in Essex, with test crops being
grown. The intention is to replaceg oil seed rape with borage. The
reason is that the oil content is far higher per tonne than with Rape.
However, the seed ripens unevenly making it difficult to harvest.

A good amount of Borage comes from New Zealand.


Article 26156 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Teri Bachus" <bachmoz@aug.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Update Va. Killer bees
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 08:43:13 -0400
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still more details on ahb find/stinging incident:
Goat's attackers were 'killer bees' / They're unlikely to stay in Va.
http://www.timesdispatch.com/virginia/arch/bees20.shtml

quote from TIM MACK Virginia Tech Entomologist:

Yesterday, Mack cautioned Virginians not to overreact to news of killer bees
by wiping out hives of European honey bees, which are already under stress
from the mites. "We're asking everyone to stay calm, relax, and if they see
a bee
or wasp, not to panic. There are lots of things out there," he said, "that
are not killer bees."





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References: <20000720224107.01521.00000903@ng-da1.aol.com> <20000724223733.17655.00000539@ng-cb1.aol.com>
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Hi there,
I read that you can stager your supers and blow air with a fan on them until
the uncapped honey becomes dry enough to extract (+/- 18% water content).
Of course, you need an instrument to test the water content.
I don't know if that will help cause I've never done it myself but good
luck.
Normand




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From: "Peter Edwards" <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: badgers
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 07:08:08 +0100
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Perhaps.  Probably unnecessary to electrify it though.

"Christopher Dainton" <dainton@globalnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8lii2l$8co$1@gxsn.com...
> Oh dear
> Its a bit like the bear debate again
> Would it be worth putting a fence around?
>
> Peter Edwards wrote in message <8lihj7$t8n$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk>...
> >They don't bother them - they just destroy them!
> >
> >"Christopher Dainton" <dainton@globalnet.co.uk> wrote in message
> >news:8lhvkt$sfq$1@gxsn.com...
> >> A friend has obtained a site for bees which is near a badger set.
> >> Would this matter.
> >> Do badgers bother bee hives
> >> Thanks for any advice
> >> Chris
> >> Gloucester UK
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>




Article 26159 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: James Kilty <honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: two queens + earwigs
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 16:25:30 +0100
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In article <20000723200131.10566.00000288@ng-ci1.aol.com>, LKLarson1
<lklarson1@aol.com> writes
>My question--with one entrance, wouldn't the field bees be fighting?
Why should they. They all have the same scent.
>  I have
>noticed when walking by some "commotion" before, thinking it was just the hot
>weather, etc.   What I'm thinking of doing is removing the queen excluder,
>putting the upper level over the brood chamber and letting them fight it out,
>with the excluder on the top of these two (practically full) hive bodies and
>putting an empty one on top.   Do you agree with the logic? 
No. IMHO either split and create a new colony (sell it?) or leave as a 2
queen colony. Keep a QX over the upper colony. Get some advice in this
newsgroup about how to manage 2-queens. Previous postings have talked
about the system. Or you should choose what you think is the better
queen. Others might well advise differently.
>  Both bees seem to
>have good brood patterns, although the lower one has more drone cells.
Do you have any indication that the lower one is the older?
-- 
James Kilty


Article 26160 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: James Kilty <honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: bad tempered bees
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 16:36:24 +0100
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In article <397b9357.48390642@news.usit.net>, gfdavis@usit.net writes
>               I had one
>hive that had swarmed in early spring I had put a hive top for a
>bottom board  and was going to replace. I lifted the whole hive up and
>over and the bees poured out and  I was stung through my suit and one
>even cgot inside my veil.
Sorry to ask, but you don't say if you have confirmed that the new queen
is laying. If not ....
-- 
James Kilty


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From: "Tom Allen" <tsallen@mediaone.net>
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Subject: Nuc making
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My observation hive is struggling to make a new queen. There hasn't been a
queen for 2-3 weeks. A couple of superceedure cells appear to have been
still born. Best I can tell, a third is being fed before capping. Would it
be OK to combine that frame in a nuc with some bees and brood or do I need
to do a newspaper thing? (I've used a sheet of newspaper when combining a
queenless swarm with a colony. The new bees, trapped in a brood chamber, eat
through the sheet in a day or so to the main hive. Something about
pheromones and acceptance.)

Tom




Article 26162 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Billy Y. Smart II" <Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com>
Subject: Re: badgers
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Peter Edwards wrote:

> Perhaps.  Probably unnecessary to electrify it though.
>
>
> >

Peter,

This is OT but I am curious. Are there badgers in the UK? I thought they
were a product of the Americas.

--
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
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/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */





Article 26163 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
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J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
news:eQP6NQy9$GA.77@cpmsnbbsa08...
> I didn't think honeybees had facilities for biting.  Where did you read
about
> this?
> Niki
>
of course they have facility for biting
how do you think they shape and mould wax?
and deal with propolis
i am guessing you are not a beekeeper....?
if you are an experienced beekeeper
you would know they chew thru paper when you are uniting hives
they can even chew wood
carman

>
> J & N F.
>
> Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
>
>
> "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> news:8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz...
> > Greetings All
> >
> > Apparently the bees who display excellent cleaning habits are able to
build
> > resistence to Varroa.... catching the mite and biting them.
> >
> > There is talk here about breeding and queen selection based on good hive
> > cleaning habits.
> >
> > The research i have seen so far indicates that the way to select queens
to
> > breed populations of good cleaning habit, is to take a frame of capped
> > brood,  using a needle, pin or other sharp object puncture about 9
cappings
> > to form a circle of exposed brood.
> > leave for 2-3 days, then return to inspect the frame.
> > if the bees have superior cleaning habit, the larvae inside the
punctured
> > cappings would have been removed and there should be a clearly visible
> > circle of empty brood chamber.
> > This is the recommended way to select a queen to increase the
possibility of
> > superior cleaning behaviour ... bees of this trait are said to have
better
> > chance at increased resistence to the mite.
> >
> > Do others here select based on that trait?
> > Are you finding good success rate for mite resistence?
> > (this is sssssoh fun,   i tell people here that  i talk to bee keepers
from
> > the rest of the world, they think it's cool !)
> > many thanks
> > carman
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>






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From: "Peter Edwards" <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Arthritis
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:17:36 +0100
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There was a report in the British Medical Journal recently that bee stings,
far from alleviating arthritis as many of us thought, can actually cause it.

Apparently a study was based on a village in Spain where a large number of
the population are beekeepers.  Interestingly, blood tests for arthritis
were negative (apparently this can happen with certain types of arthritis).

I also heard a report on the radio this week which confirmed this view and
suggested that bee stings can cause AND relieve arthritis - they relieve it
away from the sting site, but cause it around the area that has been stung.

This item was particularly interesting to me as I have been suffering from
painful joints recently.

This might be a good area for our national associations to investigate, but
in the meantime could we take a quick poll of this newsgroup?  If everyone
reading this replies with a 'yes' or 'no' we might get some idea whether
this is a problem or not.  At least we would find out how many read the
newsgroup!

So do you suffer from arthritis (or suspect that you might)?




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(Ed - sent this to you directly but it bounced back.)

Regarding winter stores:

If you harvest all the honey supers after the fall blossoms are all done,
and the bees haven't socked a lot of food away in the upper brood chamber
by then, they will be in trouble.

Thing is, with super space above, they sometimes run all their honey up
there, and neglect to fill their own winter storehouse with provisions.  SO
it is important to pay attention to what is going on in there, from late
Aug. through Oct.

In our region of the world, we are fortunate to have all the goldenrods,
asters and other fall flowers that bloom in Sept. and Oct.  The key is to
exploit this fall honey flow in such a way that the bees fill the upper
brood chamber with the winter stores they will need.  If they put all that
honey up into honey supers, it isn't going to be in the hive when and where
they need it.

The fall flows are not always consistent, so that is why you want to make
sure and keep an eye on things.  Basically, once the goldenrods are really
starting to bloom heavily in Sept., go into the 2nd brood chamber and see
how much honey is sealed there.  If the box isn't abt. 2/3 full of honey
(which will be very heavy), then get your honey supers off.  Harvest them,
leaving just the 2 brood boxes.  That will force the girls to pack away the
fall honey and pollen for winter.

On the other hand, if the upper brood box is good and heavy with honey
(with little brood remaining up there), then go ahead and provide them the
equiv. of, say, 2 honey supers' space to catch the fall surplus.  (BTW I'm
referring to shallow or medium supers.)  They may or may not fill them, but
if the flow is substantial you will be able to take advantage of the late
crop.

Point is, you have to play it by ear.  Many beginners (and others of us!)
have made the mistake of harvesting the honey supers in late fall, just
presuming that the bees have plenty of honey in their two brood chambers.
Only to have the bees starve out very soon.  This happens when the bees
keep rearing brood in the upper brood box into the fall.  Naturally they
store the honey above that.  That's where the honey supers are.  Bingo -you
take away the honey supers, you take away their food supply.

 Conservative and attentive supering at the beginning of the fall honey
flows forces the bees to put honey where they need it -- in the upper part
of their winter hive.  The accumulation of honey in the cells up there will
gradually "push" all the brood-rearing down below, into the bottom box, for
the rest of the fall.  There is plenty of room, as egg laying starts to
taper off considerably, and so the result is a well-provisioned colony with
plenty of good food, positioned properly "above their heads," all ready for
the long winter.

Keep this basic idea in mind, every year, after the end of Aug., and take
the appropriate measures, depending on the conditions, and you will always
have them in fine shape once winter arrives.  When in doubt, it is always
better to leave them with too much honey than with too little.  Many folks
just take all supers off in Aug. and let the bees have ALL the fall honey
for storing in the brood chambers.  But IMHO it is much better and more
profitable to take note of what the situation actually exists in the hive
in Sept., and take action accordingly.  Some years the fall honey flows can
be ideal, nice and heavy, and if there is surplus to be had (in excess of
the bees' winter requirements), no sense forfeiting that.

cul
joel g.
nr. Ithaca, NY

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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
(Ed - sent this to you directly but it bounced back.)
<p><i>Regarding winter stores:</i>
<p>If you harvest all the honey supers after the fall blossoms are all
done, and the bees haven't socked a lot of food away in the upper brood
chamber by then, they will be in trouble.
<p>Thing is, with super space above, they sometimes run all their honey
up there, and neglect to fill their own winter storehouse with provisions.&nbsp;
SO it is important to pay attention to what is going on in there, from
late Aug. through Oct.
<p>In our region of the world, we are fortunate to have all the goldenrods,
asters and other fall flowers that bloom in Sept. and Oct.&nbsp; The key
is to exploit this fall honey flow in such a way that the bees fill the
upper brood chamber with the winter stores they will need.&nbsp; If they
put all that honey up into honey supers, it isn't going to be in the hive
when and where they need it.
<p>The fall flows are not always consistent, so that is why you want to
make sure and keep an eye on things.&nbsp; Basically, once the goldenrods
are really starting to bloom heavily in Sept., go into the 2nd brood chamber
and see how much honey is sealed there.&nbsp; If the box isn't abt. 2/3
full of honey (which will be very heavy), then get your honey supers off.&nbsp;
Harvest them, leaving just the 2 brood boxes.&nbsp; That will force the
girls to pack away the fall honey and pollen for winter.
<p>On the other hand, if the upper brood box is good and heavy with honey
(with little brood remaining up there), then go ahead and provide them
the equiv. of, say, 2 honey supers' space to catch the fall surplus.&nbsp;
(BTW I'm referring to shallow or medium supers.)&nbsp; They may or may
not fill them, but if the flow is substantial you will be able to take
advantage of the late crop.
<p>Point is, you have to play it by ear.&nbsp; Many beginners (and others
of us!) have made the mistake of harvesting the honey supers in late fall,
just presuming that the bees have plenty of honey in their two brood chambers.&nbsp;
Only to have the bees starve out very soon.&nbsp; This happens when the
bees keep rearing brood in the upper brood box into the fall.&nbsp; Naturally
they store the honey above that.&nbsp; That's where the honey supers are.&nbsp;
Bingo -you take away the honey supers, you take away their food supply.
<p>&nbsp;Conservative and attentive supering at the beginning of the fall
honey flows forces the bees to put honey where they need it -- in the upper
part of their winter hive.&nbsp; The accumulation of honey in the cells
up there will gradually "push" all the brood-rearing down below, into the
bottom box, for the rest of the fall.&nbsp; There is plenty of room, as
egg laying starts to taper off considerably, and so the result is a well-provisioned
colony with plenty of good food, positioned properly "above their heads,"
all ready for the long winter.
<p>Keep this basic idea in mind, every year, after the end of Aug., and
take the appropriate measures, depending on the conditions, and you will
always have them in fine shape once winter arrives.&nbsp; When in doubt,
it is always better to leave them with too much honey than with too little.&nbsp;
Many folks just take all supers off in Aug. and let the bees have ALL the
fall honey for storing in the brood chambers.&nbsp; But IMHO it is much
better and more profitable to take note of what the situation actually
exists in the hive in Sept., and take action accordingly.&nbsp; Some years
the fall honey flows can be ideal, nice and heavy, and if there is surplus
to be had (in excess of the bees' winter requirements), no sense forfeiting
that.
<p>cul
<br>joel g.
<br>nr. Ithaca, NY</html>

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Article 26166 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Essential oils and Varroa...?
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 15:55:59 +1200
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Blue Taz37 <bluetaz37@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000726220907.13807.00000054@ng-da1.aol.com...
> >what is wintergreen candy?
> >do you mean like sweets?
> >carman
> >
>
> Yep. They are green and white or Red and white candy that sell in Store.
Near
> Fall's season when I go out shopping, Most Store Mang. have a basket of
candy
> on the counter ( free) I just grab few handful for my bees. :-)
>                         Tim

are you on the hexamine again tim?

i seriously doubt that store brought striped candy will save your bees from
varroa mite
but look if you want to be serious for a minute about
*true* possible alternatives
then get these:-
SuperforageTM
A preparation of anti-fungal and anti-bacterial herbs in a soft candy
Recommended for spring and fall feedings (before and after honeyflow).
if you want more info go here

http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/varroa/varroa2.htm

i doubt the striped candy that you purchase at the local store will have
anymore impact on your varroa mites than say ... chocolate
carman




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Subject: Re: Arthritis
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Hum, I think my arthritis on my hands cause be use Smoker and on my elbows
cause by use Honey Extractors But, Not from a Sting.
 Maybe from Old Wife Tale?


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>several normal-light wild flower honey combs
>but also 5 lovely bars of this pretty pink stuff.  Even in the comb it is
>pronouncedly pink  No, I didn't feed red syrup... Any ideas?  I'm in NJ 

Wonder if it were draw from "wild flower" where VDOT Planting near interstate
Highway? If watch were the bees go to and from to, You might find the loaction
of what plant's it was coming from? Please don't quote me on this, It is just
my guess.


Article 26169 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Collect an honey
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Thanks Normand, I just done finish help the old beekeeping collect some honey
last weekend. He put uncapped in Ref. to use first and Full Capped on the
shelf. This coming weekend, I'm going to cut out capped to keep it and feeds
the rest uncapped back to the hives with some water mix in it.


Article 26170 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com>
References: <8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz> <eQP6NQy9$GA.77@cpmsnbbsa08> <8lnish$t8i$1@news.wave.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
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"In the fall, when fruit is ripe, yellow jackets will feed on the juices of
fruits with broken skins.  They may also bite and break fruit skins, something
that honey bees cannot do because their mandibles are not of the biting type"

Quoted from:
ABC and XYZ of Bee Culture, 40th edition; written by Roger A. Morse; copyright
1990;
page 278, second column, third paragraph.

I had only asked where you read about it, & yes, I am a beekeeper.

Niki



--


J & N F.

Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.


"Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
news:8lnish$t8i$1@news.wave.co.nz...
>
> J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
> news:eQP6NQy9$GA.77@cpmsnbbsa08...
> > I didn't think honeybees had facilities for biting.  Where did you read
> about
> > this?
> > Niki
> >
> of course they have facility for biting
> how do you think they shape and mould wax?
> and deal with propolis
> i am guessing you are not a beekeeper....?
> if you are an experienced beekeeper
> you would know they chew thru paper when you are uniting hives
> they can even chew wood
> carman
>
> >
> > J & N F.
> >
> > Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> > Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
> >
> >
> > "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> > news:8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz...
> > > Greetings All
> > >
> > > Apparently the bees who display excellent cleaning habits are able to
> build
> > > resistence to Varroa.... catching the mite and biting them.
> > >
> > > There is talk here about breeding and queen selection based on good hive
> > > cleaning habits.
> > >
> > > The research i have seen so far indicates that the way to select queens
> to
> > > breed populations of good cleaning habit, is to take a frame of capped
> > > brood,  using a needle, pin or other sharp object puncture about 9
> cappings
> > > to form a circle of exposed brood.
> > > leave for 2-3 days, then return to inspect the frame.
> > > if the bees have superior cleaning habit, the larvae inside the
> punctured
> > > cappings would have been removed and there should be a clearly visible
> > > circle of empty brood chamber.
> > > This is the recommended way to select a queen to increase the
> possibility of
> > > superior cleaning behaviour ... bees of this trait are said to have
> better
> > > chance at increased resistence to the mite.
> > >
> > > Do others here select based on that trait?
> > > Are you finding good success rate for mite resistence?
> > > (this is sssssoh fun,   i tell people here that  i talk to bee keepers
> from
> > > the rest of the world, they think it's cool !)
> > > many thanks
> > > carman
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>



Article 26171 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 21:12:46 +1200
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J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
news:O2ZGq749$GA.318@cpmsnbbsa08...
> "In the fall, when fruit is ripe, yellow jackets will feed on the juices
of
> fruits with broken skins.  They may also bite and break fruit skins,
something
> that honey bees cannot do because their mandibles are not of the biting
type"
>
> Quoted from:
> ABC and XYZ of Bee Culture, 40th edition; written by Roger A. Morse;
copyright
> 1990;
> page 278, second column, third paragraph.
>
> I had only asked where you read about it, & yes, I am a beekeeper.
>
> Niki
>

hehe
i think that is a different type of biting
but i know they sure love to suck up the juice of fruits once the birds and
insects have open them up
Our MAF officer visited a club evening and we were discussing that if bees
are selected by strain for their good cleaning habits, they  are able to
catch the mites and they  most certainly will bite them.

have you ever united a hive?
have you seen how quickly the bees will chew through the paper
it only takes a matter of hours before they completely ngaw thru it

highly efficient chewing devices

and if you would like a reference regarding the chewing devices try "the
hive and the Honey Bee"   isbn 0 915698 09-9 Joe M Graham Dadant and Sons
this is the Beekeepers bible over here and the text used by Telford Rural
Polytech.
page 116 "the worker bee uses uses it's mandables for eating pollen, workig
the wax in the comb building ... and for doing the chores about the hive
that require a pair of grasping instruments"
carman

>
> --
>
>
> J & N F.
>
> Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
>
>
> "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> news:8lnish$t8i$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> >
> > J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
> > news:eQP6NQy9$GA.77@cpmsnbbsa08...
> > > I didn't think honeybees had facilities for biting.  Where did you
read
> > about
> > > this?
> > > Niki
> > >
> > of course they have facility for biting
> > how do you think they shape and mould wax?
> > and deal with propolis
> > i am guessing you are not a beekeeper....?
> > if you are an experienced beekeeper
> > you would know they chew thru paper when you are uniting hives
> > they can even chew wood
> > carman
> >
> > >
> > > J & N F.
> > >
> > > Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> > > Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
> > >
> > >
> > > "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> > > news:8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz...
> > > > Greetings All
> > > >
> > > > Apparently the bees who display excellent cleaning habits are able
to
> > build
> > > > resistence to Varroa.... catching the mite and biting them.
> > > >
> > > > There is talk here about breeding and queen selection based on good
hive
> > > > cleaning habits.
> > > >
> > > > The research i have seen so far indicates that the way to select
queens
> > to
> > > > breed populations of good cleaning habit, is to take a frame of
capped
> > > > brood,  using a needle, pin or other sharp object puncture about 9
> > cappings
> > > > to form a circle of exposed brood.
> > > > leave for 2-3 days, then return to inspect the frame.
> > > > if the bees have superior cleaning habit, the larvae inside the
> > punctured
> > > > cappings would have been removed and there should be a clearly
visible
> > > > circle of empty brood chamber.
> > > > This is the recommended way to select a queen to increase the
> > possibility of
> > > > superior cleaning behaviour ... bees of this trait are said to have
> > better
> > > > chance at increased resistence to the mite.
> > > >
> > > > Do others here select based on that trait?
> > > > Are you finding good success rate for mite resistence?
> > > > (this is sssssoh fun,   i tell people here that  i talk to bee
keepers
> > from
> > > > the rest of the world, they think it's cool !)
> > > > many thanks
> > > > carman
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>




Article 26172 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Message-ID: <39800D27.2564BABF@zzclinic.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 06:21:27 -0400
From: Bill Truesdell <mister-t@zzclinic.net>
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Saw some posts about an oxalic acid drip treatment for varroa. What is the
mechanism, for applying the oxalic acid? where does it drip in the hive?
Bill T
-- 
If there is a zz before clinic.net, remove it to reply directly.


Article 26173 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
Date: 27 Jul 2000 06:50:58 -0400
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There's a mid- 90's paper done by Ruttner et al on mandible SHAPE and efficacy
for varroa biting by _Apis mellifera_. Shape of mandible is compared to _Apis
cerana_ mandibles. 

Varroa tolerence will most likely be a combination of hygenic traits, shorter
development time, and mandible shape. Selecting for these traits and other
generally positive traits should prove interesting. 

I've not seen much "I'm a beekeeper because I know blah blah blah"
flames on this newsgroup before. I'd urge posters to continue with the trend.
Have a happy day. :-)

Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein
adamf@radix.net
http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf


Article 26174 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Teri Bachus" <bachmoz@aug.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: re:Anyone going to EAS?
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 08:37:19 -0400
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Greg the beekeep wrote on 07/09/2000:

> It's been three years since I've been. Being that it is in my home state I
decided to go. Anyone else?

hope to bee there for the american bee research conference, aug.4-5...any
others planning to go?








Article 26175 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "rpned" <rpned@starwon.com.au>
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Thanks for Info.

Passed it on.

Regards

Robert P. Nederpelt
http://www.starwon.com.au/~rpned/
"Government is not reason, it is not eloquence, it is force;
like fire, a troublesome servant and a fearful master."
-- George Washington, speech of January 7, 1790







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From: Pete <hrogers@arkansas.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Weird Looking Comb (pic attached)
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 02:29:08 GMT
Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy.
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> rec01rec wrote:
> One of my hives has some really weird looking comb on one of the
> frames...it sticks out further than all the other comb and seems to
> have a tunnel in it that bees fly in and out of. (All my other comb is
> normal).
*********************************************************

   Howdy recrec --

   Looks like you are using Duragilt which the bees do not like unless
there is a very good flow on.  The extra comb built alongside the plasic
is drone comb full of drone brood.

   If you check the posts you will find that most experienced beekeepers
are not fond of Duragilt.

           Pete
So much to learn - So little time !
**************************************************


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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"Eddie P." wrote:
...
>2 questions, when do I add the next honey super?, when the most of the
>comb is capped? at present most of the 9 frames have been drawn and are
>getting heavy ...

A popular rule (and good) of thumb is, add another super on top when the
topmost
one is half full or more.  It being the height of the summer right now, you
should
definitely get another honey super on there, pronto, and depending on
conditions they may need another in a week or two. Check the top one abt.
every
2 weeks and add another when necessary, for the rest of the summer.

>next question ... do I leave 1 honey super on each hive to ensure enough
>food over the winter (in addition to the 2 brood boxes) or can I harvest
>all of the honey supers?

Where you are, the double- brood-chamber will hold _pleny_ of winter
stores.
The usual practice is to harvest all remaining honey supers at the end of
the
productive season, leaving the two brood chambers for the bees to live in
over
winter.  This works out well for overwintering, as long as you make sure
the
two boxes contain plenty of stores by the end of Fall.

>I read the thread on leaving the honey supers on all year and consensus
>seems to be that ..that honey supers should be removed and harvested, I
>want to make sure that I'm leaving enough for the colonies over winter.

Well, Ed, in the fall, if you are conservative about adding honey supers
(--
perhaps leaving them only one honey super (or none), once the fall flowers
have come into bloom) the bees will store the late-season honey in the
upper
brood chamber, so it is full or nearly so.  That is really what you want --

40, 50 lbs of sealed honey in the upper box by the time winter comes on.
If
the fall honey flows don't turn out to be very productive, then you can
still
feed them to top up their winter food stores, if need be.


->>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<-
Joel Govostes
Tech. Svcs. Support Unit
Cornell University Library
107E Olin Library
jwg6@cornell.edu




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You don't need to use the newspaper at all.  Just put them together.  There
won't be any trouble.  Hopefully the queen will develop successfully, emerge,
mate and lay eggs OK.

One thing, though -- don't count on a very productive queen being reared from
such a tiny colony.  She might end up a dud.  "Emergency" queens from a very
small colony are often reared with insufficient feeding, and so end up "runty.'

It is not _always_ the case, though.  You never know.  Give her a shot, and you
just might be surprised...

Good luck --

jwg
nr. Ithaca, NY

Tom Allen wrote:

> My observation hive is struggling to make a new queen. There hasn't been a
> queen for 2-3 weeks. A couple of superceedure cells appear to have been
> still born. Best I can tell, a third is being fed before capping. Would it
> be OK to combine that frame in a nuc with some bees and brood or do I need
> to do a newspaper thing? (I've used a sheet of newspaper when combining a
> queenless swarm with a colony. The new bees, trapped in a brood chamber, eat
> through the sheet in a day or so to the main hive. Something about
> pheromones and acceptance.)
>
> Tom



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Subject: Re: Weird Looking Comb (pic attached)
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Ugh -- they did a crappy job drawing out that Duragilt!  Sometimes
happens.  Unfortunately, you can't really rectify it now, the way they
have constructed things.

Move that comb to one of the outside positions ASAP.  That is, against
one of the side walls, with the ugly side facing the wall.  Then, when
the brood has all emerged in 3-4 weeks, get the frame out of there, and
re-fit it with new foundation.  Then replace the frame, at one of the
center positions, for the bees to draw the new sheet of fdn.   The old
comb can be set near the hive for the bees to salvage the honey.

A misshapen comb like that is a real problem in the hive, as the adjacent
combs will be chewed away or distorted to preserve the natural bee space.
Better to let them start over on that one.  You want all nice, even combs
in there, so they are all interchangeable.

As Pete mentioned, the wacky comb-drawing is sometimes a drawback with
the Duragilt, if conditions aren't just right.   Usually I find they do a
good job on it, though.

jwg
nr. Ithaca, NY

rec01rec@my-deja.com wrote:

> One of my hives has some really weird looking comb on one of the
> frames...it sticks out further than all the other comb and seems to
> have a tunnel in it that bees fly in and out of. (All my other comb is
> normal).
>
> weird comb pic at - http://www.rec.cnchost.com/bees/sc00010.jpg
> general hive pics  at - http://www.rec.cnchost.com
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.



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From: "George Styer" <gstyLer@worldnet.att.net>
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A good pic of some poorly drawn DandantGuilt, err...I mean DuraGilt. Lots of
drone brood. You will have to replace it with either wax or plastic as
DuraGilt won't be drawn out again if it is scraped off. Also make sure the
frames are tight up against each other until they are drawn.

--
Geo
Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley
"Honey is sweet but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
To respond via email, get the "L" out of there


<rec01rec@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:8ll8c4$f50$1@nnrp1.deja.com...
> One of my hives has some really weird looking comb on one of the
> frames...it sticks out further than all the other comb and seems to
> have a tunnel in it that bees fly in and out of. (All my other comb is
> normal).
>
> weird comb pic at - http://www.rec.cnchost.com/bees/sc00010.jpg
> general hive pics  at - http://www.rec.cnchost.com
>
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.




Article 26181 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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"Billy Y. Smart II" wrote:

> Group,
>
> Was inspecting a hive over the weekend and in on I found a brood comb
> that had a layer of cells filled with a black liquid. It surrounded the
> brood in a way I expect to see pollen. Any ideas as to what it is? There
> was only one comb with it. The colony is strong otherwise.
>
> --

may be Tiger Lily pollen, which as I recall is just black
they are in bloom now, at least in NE USA

pollen doesn't usu. appear as "liquid", but..might have a layer of nectar
or honey on the surface (?)

hard to say, but there's a possibility

honey from some sources can be quite dark as well.  buckwheat might appear
very dark.
(got any buckwheat or knapweed/knotweed around?)



Article 26182 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Peter Edwards" <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Essential oils and Varroa...?
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 22:56:51 +0100
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This is very old material - try this one:

http://www.apis.admin.ch/

I have used thymol before/after the honey flow combined with oxalic acid
drip treatment in November exclusively for the three years since first
finding varroa.

Thymol (1 teaspoonful) is placed in an old honey jar lid resting on the
queen excluder and is topped up weekly for 4 weeks.  Oxalic 60g, water 1
litre, sugar 300g is dripped at the rate of 5cc per seam of bees.

Until last week when I found half a dozen on the screen under one hive, I
have been unable to find any varroa this year; all other screens were clear.


"Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
news:8lj9ds$rub$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> Greetings All
> I found a website with "results of research using essential oils for Honey
> Bee Mite control"
>
> http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/varroa/varroa2.htm#Timing
>
> I am interested to know whether anyone here has tried these?
> many thanks
> carman
>
>
>
>




Article 26183 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Peter Edwards" <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Hobby Beekeeping in the UK ..?
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Our local association membership has fallen from a peak of 112 to about 50 -
but does now show some signs of increasing slightly.

"Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
news:8lj7js$rg4$2@news.wave.co.nz...
> Greetings All
> I have been reading my latest edition of out local Beekeepers newsletter.
> There is a comment in it which says that in the UK,  the majority of
> hobbyist Beekeepers quit beekeeping because of the problems associated
with
> Varroa Mite.
> Is this correct?
> I'm interested in the UK experience
> and the experience anywhere else for that matter
> many thanks
> carman
>
>
>




Article 26184 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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I'd echo Peters reply. Our local membership numbers have dropped a similar
level - i.e about halved, but now are also recovering slightly. On a related
note in Hampshire (UK) we've just completed a survey of most hampshire
clubs, the
age profile of beekeepers, type of work they do etc if your interested - see
http://www.hampshirebka.freeserve.co.uk/BeeTalk/2000/March/Article_117_01_00
_1.html

The good news is that as a county as a whole varroa does not seem to have
stemmed the number of new recruits.
Graham

Peter Edwards <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in
message news:8llufp$rgt$2@news6.svr.pol.co.uk...
> Our local association membership has fallen from a peak of 112 to about
50 -
> but does now show some signs of increasing slightly.
>
> "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> news:8lj7js$rg4$2@news.wave.co.nz...
> > Greetings All
> > I have been reading my latest edition of out local Beekeepers
newsletter.
> > There is a comment in it which says that in the UK,  the majority of
> > hobbyist Beekeepers quit beekeeping because of the problems associated
> with
> > Varroa Mite.
> > Is this correct?
> > I'm interested in the UK experience
> > and the experience anywhere else for that matter
> > many thanks
> > carman
> >
> >
> >
>
>








Article 26185 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Essential oils and Varroa...?
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Blue Taz37 <bluetaz37@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000725221724.28401.00000052@ng-cu1.aol.com...
> > The method we use is to mix about 40 drops of wintergreen oil in a
> >few spoonfuls of honey and then add that mixture to a gallon of syrup
> >after it has cooled from boiling, but is still warm. Then we feed the
> >syrup in entrance feeders
>
> I use 4 Wintergreen or Peppermint candy in a cup of hot water and let it
set
> overnight and than mix it in gallon syrup. They really love it. I think it
alot
> cheaper that way?

what is wintergreen candy?
do you mean like sweets?
carman





Article 26186 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa & Nasturtiums
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 00:15:27 +1200
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Blue Taz37 <bluetaz37@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000725222243.28401.00000055@ng-cu1.aol.com...
> >I am wondering if it is possible that nasturtiums somehow repell the
varroa.
> >I know nasturtiums have a peppery
>
>
>  I don't know for sure, I have few Beekeeping ask for my Peppermint Plants
at
> the creek. I can smell it 20yd. before u know it was there. I was thinking
of
> grin up leaves and mix it in sugar water.
>                            Tim


that might be a good idea
worth a try
i have peppermint gerraniums
and they are apparently edible
so might do some experimenting
i also have peppermint - mint
thanks again
carman






Article 26187 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Breeding for Varroa resistence
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Greetings All

Apparently the bees who display excellent cleaning habits are able to build
resistence to Varroa.... catching the mite and biting them.

There is talk here about breeding and queen selection based on good hive
cleaning habits.

The research i have seen so far indicates that the way to select queens  to
breed populations of good cleaning habit, is to take a frame of capped
brood,  using a needle, pin or other sharp object puncture about 9 cappings
to form a circle of exposed brood.
leave for 2-3 days, then return to inspect the frame.
if the bees have superior cleaning habit, the larvae inside the punctured
cappings would have been removed and there should be a clearly visible
circle of empty brood chamber.
This is the recommended way to select a queen to increase the possibility of
superior cleaning behaviour ... bees of this trait are said to have better
chance at increased resistence to the mite.

Do others here select based on that trait?
Are you finding good success rate for mite resistence?
(this is sssssoh fun,   i tell people here that  i talk to bee keepers from
the rest of the world, they think it's cool !)
many thanks
carman








Article 26188 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com>
References: <8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
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I didn't think honeybees had facilities for biting.  Where did you read about
this?
Niki

--


J & N F.

Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.


"Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
news:8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz...
> Greetings All
>
> Apparently the bees who display excellent cleaning habits are able to build
> resistence to Varroa.... catching the mite and biting them.
>
> There is talk here about breeding and queen selection based on good hive
> cleaning habits.
>
> The research i have seen so far indicates that the way to select queens  to
> breed populations of good cleaning habit, is to take a frame of capped
> brood,  using a needle, pin or other sharp object puncture about 9 cappings
> to form a circle of exposed brood.
> leave for 2-3 days, then return to inspect the frame.
> if the bees have superior cleaning habit, the larvae inside the punctured
> cappings would have been removed and there should be a clearly visible
> circle of empty brood chamber.
> This is the recommended way to select a queen to increase the possibility of
> superior cleaning behaviour ... bees of this trait are said to have better
> chance at increased resistence to the mite.
>
> Do others here select based on that trait?
> Are you finding good success rate for mite resistence?
> (this is sssssoh fun,   i tell people here that  i talk to bee keepers from
> the rest of the world, they think it's cool !)
> many thanks
> carman
>
>
>
>
>
>



Article 26189 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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You don't really believe they got pregnant from the bee sting do you?

<honeybs@radix.net> wrote in message
news:397ffcd3.37802735@news1.radix.net...

> I have shipped bees to over 2000 people for bee venom therapy and have
> never heard of this problem.  I have gotten a lot of calls from people
> with MS using the bees that have said their arthritis has disappeared.
> Women suddenly getting pregnant is also a side effect of the bee
> stings!
>
> beekeep
>




Article 26190 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com>
References: <8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz> <eQP6NQy9$GA.77@cpmsnbbsa08> <8lnish$t8i$1@news.wave.co.nz> <O2ZGq749$GA.318@cpmsnbbsa08> <8losj7$7ur$1@news.wave.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
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Carmen,
Thank you for the Dadant reference, I have two Dadant books, but do not have
that one.  I will look into it.

The reason I was familiar with the quote regarding inability to 'bite' is
because last fall the yellow jackets were incredibly bad & they spent all day
hanging outside the hives grabbing honey bees as they returned, and they were
seemingly defenseless, as the yellow jackets do have biting mandibles & would
grab a honey bee and sever it in two.  The honey bees, of course, tried to
defend themselves, but were not able to 'sever' any piece of the yellow
jackets (they certainly are able to grasp & drag, sometimes things larger than
themselves).  Pieces of dead bees littered the ground outside the hive.  I
went to the books to see if there was anything I could do to help my honey
bees in this assault they were going through, and read up on yellow jackets,
which is where I came upon that information.

When you said what you did about the bees biting, all I said was I didn't
think they could bite (based on what research I'd done) & asked where you read
about it, so I could do more reading about it.  Instead of telling me where
your information came from, you told me I must not be a bee keeper or I'd
know better.  Yes, I am aware honey bees chew & have grasping mandibles,
though as far as chewing wood or metal, as has been mentioned, I've seen no
evidence of that personally (not in honey bees, anyway).  Perhaps it is the
degree of grasping ability, i.e. strength and/or sharpness, which may enhance
it's abilities to the point of being referred to as 'biting'.  I was not
challenging your knowledge or experience, but attempting to expand my own.
Just taking my question at face value, your answer was not helpful and
somewhat insulting, which is why I quoted where my information had come from,
and in fact was all I wanted from you, a source for further research.   I
certainly to not consider myself an expert on bee anatomy (I'm sure I never
will be), but attempt to learn as I go through life.   As soon as I know it
all, I'll quit asking questions & reading books.

Niki
--


J & N F.

Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.


"Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
news:8losj7$7ur$1@news.wave.co.nz...
>
> J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
> news:O2ZGq749$GA.318@cpmsnbbsa08...
> > "In the fall, when fruit is ripe, yellow jackets will feed on the juices
> of
> > fruits with broken skins.  They may also bite and break fruit skins,
> something
> > that honey bees cannot do because their mandibles are not of the biting
> type"
> >
> > Quoted from:
> > ABC and XYZ of Bee Culture, 40th edition; written by Roger A. Morse;
> copyright
> > 1990;
> > page 278, second column, third paragraph.
> >
> > I had only asked where you read about it, & yes, I am a beekeeper.
> >
> > Niki
> >
>
> hehe
> i think that is a different type of biting
> but i know they sure love to suck up the juice of fruits once the birds and
> insects have open them up
> Our MAF officer visited a club evening and we were discussing that if bees
> are selected by strain for their good cleaning habits, they  are able to
> catch the mites and they  most certainly will bite them.
>
> have you ever united a hive?
> have you seen how quickly the bees will chew through the paper
> it only takes a matter of hours before they completely ngaw thru it
>
> highly efficient chewing devices
>
> and if you would like a reference regarding the chewing devices try "the
> hive and the Honey Bee"   isbn 0 915698 09-9 Joe M Graham Dadant and Sons
> this is the Beekeepers bible over here and the text used by Telford Rural
> Polytech.
> page 116 "the worker bee uses uses it's mandables for eating pollen, workig
> the wax in the comb building ... and for doing the chores about the hive
> that require a pair of grasping instruments"
> carman
>
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> > J & N F.
> >
> > Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> > Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
> >
> >
> > "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> > news:8lnish$t8i$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> > >
> > > J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
> > > news:eQP6NQy9$GA.77@cpmsnbbsa08...
> > > > I didn't think honeybees had facilities for biting.  Where did you
> read
> > > about
> > > > this?
> > > > Niki
> > > >
> > > of course they have facility for biting
> > > how do you think they shape and mould wax?
> > > and deal with propolis
> > > i am guessing you are not a beekeeper....?
> > > if you are an experienced beekeeper
> > > you would know they chew thru paper when you are uniting hives
> > > they can even chew wood
> > > carman
> > >
> > > >
> > > > J & N F.
> > > >
> > > > Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> > > > Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> > > > news:8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz...
> > > > > Greetings All
> > > > >
> > > > > Apparently the bees who display excellent cleaning habits are able
> to
> > > build
> > > > > resistence to Varroa.... catching the mite and biting them.
> > > > >
> > > > > There is talk here about breeding and queen selection based on good
> hive
> > > > > cleaning habits.
> > > > >
> > > > > The research i have seen so far indicates that the way to select
> queens
> > > to
> > > > > breed populations of good cleaning habit, is to take a frame of
> capped
> > > > > brood,  using a needle, pin or other sharp object puncture about 9
> > > cappings
> > > > > to form a circle of exposed brood.
> > > > > leave for 2-3 days, then return to inspect the frame.
> > > > > if the bees have superior cleaning habit, the larvae inside the
> > > punctured
> > > > > cappings would have been removed and there should be a clearly
> visible
> > > > > circle of empty brood chamber.
> > > > > This is the recommended way to select a queen to increase the
> > > possibility of
> > > > > superior cleaning behaviour ... bees of this trait are said to have
> > > better
> > > > > chance at increased resistence to the mite.
> > > > >
> > > > > Do others here select based on that trait?
> > > > > Are you finding good success rate for mite resistence?
> > > > > (this is sssssoh fun,   i tell people here that  i talk to bee
> keepers
> > > from
> > > > > the rest of the world, they think it's cool !)
> > > > > many thanks
> > > > > carman
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>



Article 26191 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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On Thu, 27 Jul 2000 18:03:32 GMT, "Darrell Gehlsen"
<darrell@machinemaster.com> wrote:

>You don't really believe they got pregnant from the bee sting do you?
>
No.  These are women that have not been able to get pregnant so they
don't bother using any birth control.  This doesn't seem to be a fluke
as it has happened four or five times.

beekeep


><honeybs@radix.net> wrote in message
>news:397ffcd3.37802735@news1.radix.net...
>
>> I have shipped bees to over 2000 people for bee venom therapy and have
>> never heard of this problem.  I have gotten a lot of calls from people
>> with MS using the bees that have said their arthritis has disappeared.
>> Women suddenly getting pregnant is also a side effect of the bee
>> stings!
>>
>> beekeep
>>
>
>



Article 26192 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:21:50 +1200
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Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:26192


Adam Finkelstein <adamf@saltmine.radix.net> wrote in message
news:8lp46i$akn$1@saltmine.radix.net...
> There's a mid- 90's paper done by Ruttner et al on mandible SHAPE and
efficacy
> for varroa biting by _Apis mellifera_. Shape of mandible is compared to
_Apis
> cerana_ mandibles.
>
> Varroa tolerence will most likely be a combination of hygenic traits,
shorter
> development time, and mandible shape. Selecting for these traits and other
> generally positive traits should prove interesting.

great info !
it is quite possible there is some degree of natural selection happening
anyway, i guess those bees who already have the desirable traits are the
ones who have managed to still survive thru the varroa mite arrival in each
country

> I've not seen much "I'm a beekeeper because I know blah blah blah"
> flames on this newsgroup before. I'd urge posters to continue with the
trend.
> Have a happy day. :-)

hahahaha....yep that's the way keep everyone on their toes !
beekeepers need a bit of a rev up every now and then
sides we gotta keep all the wanna-bees alert
make sure they're not dozing off at the keyboard after all the heavy box
lifting
hahahaha
truth of the matter
i been in some very flameful ng's (nz.politics whooooee)
gonna take me a while to 'come down' from that
carman

> Adam
> --
> Adam Finkelstein
> adamf@radix.net
> http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf




Article 26193 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:29:24 +1200
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Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:26193

what's a yellow jacket?
and
regarding your comment
"you told me I must not be a bee keeper or I'd
 know better.  "
actually
i believe i didn't say anything like that
i said " i am guessing ..."
mainly because i have seen evidence of bees chewing thru all sorts of things
quite regularly
,maybe e have different type of bees from you guys
we have the italian ones
but anyway i sympathise if you felt insulted by my words
carman


J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
news:OtW6th$9$GA.585@cpmsnbbsa08...
> Carmen,
> Thank you for the Dadant reference, I have two Dadant books, but do not
have
> that one.  I will look into it.
>
> The reason I was familiar with the quote regarding inability to 'bite' is
> because last fall the yellow jackets were incredibly bad & they spent all
day
> hanging outside the hives grabbing honey bees as they returned, and they
were
> seemingly defenseless, as the yellow jackets do have biting mandibles &
would
> grab a honey bee and sever it in two.  The honey bees, of course, tried to
> defend themselves, but were not able to 'sever' any piece of the yellow
> jackets (they certainly are able to grasp & drag, sometimes things larger
than
> themselves).  Pieces of dead bees littered the ground outside the hive.  I
> went to the books to see if there was anything I could do to help my honey
> bees in this assault they were going through, and read up on yellow
jackets,
> which is where I came upon that information.
>
> When you said what you did about the bees biting, all I said was I didn't
> think they could bite (based on what research I'd done) & asked where you
read
> about it, so I could do more reading about it.  Instead of telling me
where
> your information came from, you told me I must not be a bee keeper or I'd
> know better.  Yes, I am aware honey bees chew & have grasping mandibles,
> though as far as chewing wood or metal, as has been mentioned, I've seen
no
> evidence of that personally (not in honey bees, anyway).  Perhaps it is
the
> degree of grasping ability, i.e. strength and/or sharpness, which may
enhance
> it's abilities to the point of being referred to as 'biting'.  I was not
> challenging your knowledge or experience, but attempting to expand my own.
> Just taking my question at face value, your answer was not helpful and
> somewhat insulting, which is why I quoted where my information had come
from,
> and in fact was all I wanted from you, a source for further research.   I
> certainly to not consider myself an expert on bee anatomy (I'm sure I
never
> will be), but attempt to learn as I go through life.   As soon as I know
it
> all, I'll quit asking questions & reading books.
>
> Niki
> --
>
>
> J & N F.
>
> Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
>
>
> "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> news:8losj7$7ur$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> >
> > J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
> > news:O2ZGq749$GA.318@cpmsnbbsa08...
> > > "In the fall, when fruit is ripe, yellow jackets will feed on the
juices
> > of
> > > fruits with broken skins.  They may also bite and break fruit skins,
> > something
> > > that honey bees cannot do because their mandibles are not of the
biting
> > type"
> > >
> > > Quoted from:
> > > ABC and XYZ of Bee Culture, 40th edition; written by Roger A. Morse;
> > copyright
> > > 1990;
> > > page 278, second column, third paragraph.
> > >
> > > I had only asked where you read about it, & yes, I am a beekeeper.
> > >
> > > Niki
> > >
> >
> > hehe
> > i think that is a different type of biting
> > but i know they sure love to suck up the juice of fruits once the birds
and
> > insects have open them up
> > Our MAF officer visited a club evening and we were discussing that if
bees
> > are selected by strain for their good cleaning habits, they  are able to
> > catch the mites and they  most certainly will bite them.
> >
> > have you ever united a hive?
> > have you seen how quickly the bees will chew through the paper
> > it only takes a matter of hours before they completely ngaw thru it
> >
> > highly efficient chewing devices
> >
> > and if you would like a reference regarding the chewing devices try "the
> > hive and the Honey Bee"   isbn 0 915698 09-9 Joe M Graham Dadant and
Sons
> > this is the Beekeepers bible over here and the text used by Telford
Rural
> > Polytech.
> > page 116 "the worker bee uses uses it's mandables for eating pollen,
workig
> > the wax in the comb building ... and for doing the chores about the hive
> > that require a pair of grasping instruments"
> > carman
> >
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > >
> > > J & N F.
> > >
> > > Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> > > Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
> > >
> > >
> > > "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> > > news:8lnish$t8i$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> > > >
> > > > J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:eQP6NQy9$GA.77@cpmsnbbsa08...
> > > > > I didn't think honeybees had facilities for biting.  Where did you
> > read
> > > > about
> > > > > this?
> > > > > Niki
> > > > >
> > > > of course they have facility for biting
> > > > how do you think they shape and mould wax?
> > > > and deal with propolis
> > > > i am guessing you are not a beekeeper....?
> > > > if you are an experienced beekeeper
> > > > you would know they chew thru paper when you are uniting hives
> > > > they can even chew wood
> > > > carman
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > J & N F.
> > > > >
> > > > > Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the
truth;
> > > > > Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> > > > > news:8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz...
> > > > > > Greetings All
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Apparently the bees who display excellent cleaning habits are
able
> > to
> > > > build
> > > > > > resistence to Varroa.... catching the mite and biting them.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > There is talk here about breeding and queen selection based on
good
> > hive
> > > > > > cleaning habits.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The research i have seen so far indicates that the way to select
> > queens
> > > > to
> > > > > > breed populations of good cleaning habit, is to take a frame of
> > capped
> > > > > > brood,  using a needle, pin or other sharp object puncture about
9
> > > > cappings
> > > > > > to form a circle of exposed brood.
> > > > > > leave for 2-3 days, then return to inspect the frame.
> > > > > > if the bees have superior cleaning habit, the larvae inside the
> > > > punctured
> > > > > > cappings would have been removed and there should be a clearly
> > visible
> > > > > > circle of empty brood chamber.
> > > > > > This is the recommended way to select a queen to increase the
> > > > possibility of
> > > > > > superior cleaning behaviour ... bees of this trait are said to
have
> > > > better
> > > > > > chance at increased resistence to the mite.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Do others here select based on that trait?
> > > > > > Are you finding good success rate for mite resistence?
> > > > > > (this is sssssoh fun,   i tell people here that  i talk to bee
> > keepers
> > > > from
> > > > > > the rest of the world, they think it's cool !)
> > > > > > many thanks
> > > > > > carman
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>




Article 26194 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:34:53 +1200
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<hcampb@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:8lp54j$9p4$1@nnrp1.deja.com...
> In article <O2ZGq749$GA.318@cpmsnbbsa08>,
>   "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote:
> > "In the fall, when fruit is ripe, yellow jackets will feed on the
> juices of
> > fruits with broken skins.  They may also bite and break fruit skins,
> something
> > that honey bees cannot do because their mandibles are not of the
> biting type"
> >
> > Quoted from:
> > ABC and XYZ of Bee Culture, 40th edition; written by Roger A. Morse;
> copyright
> > 1990;
> > page 278, second column, third paragraph.
> >
>    My gut feeling is that Mr. Morse does not speak the truth.

mine too

>I've
> never been bitten by a honeybee but I have watched a relatively small
> worker bee grasp a large struggling drone in her mandibles and dump him
> off of the landing board of the hive.

hehe me too
in fact sometimes if i have nothing better to do and for amusement i linger
by the hive and watch the struggle
yes i know i have a strange sense of what is amusing
but it rather a fascinating struggle to see such a litle one manage the
ousting of the larger ones
it's even more interesting when there's more than 1 female involved

>I've also seen how the chew
> through wood,

me too, well not the actual task of chewing through wood but i've certainly
seen the evidence

>and I suspect they chew the metal in the feeder lids.
>I
> know the holes in mason jar lids keep getting larger so that too much
> syrup is released unless I replace the lids.

wow!!!! I've never seen evidence of that
that is amazing

>     It's hard to believe they couldn't bite through fruit skins if they
> wanted to. Perhaps they don't simply because it's not worth the effort
> as long as there are better sources of nectar available????

all good information and ideas Herb
thanks
carman

>          Herb
>
> PS   Thanks for the info about queen selection, Carman. We'll have to
> try that. I have observed that cleanliness is extremely important to a
> hive.
>
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.




Article 26195 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Boston: West Nile found, spraying to start
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   The Boston Herald is reporting this afternoon that West Nile has been
discovered in a dead crow in the Jamaica Plain area of Boston. Pesticide
spraying will begin, but the extent of spraying has not yet been determined,
pending mosquito tests. Some public health officials are recommending a 2-mile
area around Willow Pond in Jamaica Plain be sprayed. There is some controversy
because the crow could have flown in from another area—as much as 200 miles
away.
   The proposed 2-mile zone begins at the banks of the Charles River to the
north and extends south across the Arnold Arboretum. The area is bordered to
the east by the working-class neighborhoods of Roxbury, and to the west, by
Brookline, an upscale area of large homes and gardens.
   From the Herald story:
   "The pesticides likely to be used are in a class called synthetic
pyrethriods, which are said to mimic a naturally occuring pesticide found in
chrysanthemums. The chemicals are resmethrin, active ingredient in the brand
Scourge; and sumithrin, active ingredient in the brand Anvil."
   Also from the story:
   "Spraying is most effective at dusk, and residents will be alerted through
radio and television notices, said Anita Barry, a director at Boston's Public
Health Commission. During spraying, people are advised to stay indoors with
windows closed and keep pets and children inside.
   "Nevertheless, 'people do not need to be overly concerned about the
effects of the spray,' Barry said.
   "Since Willow Pond lies on the border of Brookline, that city's Board of
Selectmen must determine whether to spray locally. Alan Balsam, Brookline's
health commissioner, said he will recommend spraying. The prospect of spraying
raised concerns among environmental activists."
   Boston Mayor Thomas Menino, sounding a lot like New York Mayor Rudolph
Guiliani last year, was asked if the decision to spray might be an
over-reaction. "I'd rather jump the gun than  be sorry later on."





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From: "Pamela Buckle" <p.Buckle@care4free.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: pollen identification
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 20:40:45 +0100
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Although it is possible to get a fair idea of some pollens by colour, the
range is so vast and the colours often so similar that it is at best good
guesswork.  Interesting but not accurate.
The only way to get closer is to do inspection and comparisons of pollens
under the microscope, which is a whole hobby in itself, but again, very
interesting.
Even under the microscope there are whole groups of plants where it is very
difficult or impossible to say exactly which plant the pollen grains are
from.  All the crucifers, for example, the cabbage/rape/wallflower lot, look
remarkably similar.
There are certain pollens that are easy, like the pitchy black of field
poppies and the bright red from horse chestnut, the 4-celled ling heather,
the strange mine-like borage family grains, but the bulk of them you need to
make a collection from known plants so you can do direct comparisons.
The Sawyer book is the best I have seen on the microscopy.  The colour
charts I have seen I take with a grain of salt.

Martin,  (Milton Keynes. UK)


<mbarton15653@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:8li17t$21c$1@nnrp1.deja.com...
> Amazed by the variety of pollen colours being brought back to the hive!-
> can anyone suggest a good classification chart/book which would help me
> identify the sources?
> Thanks, Mick (Manchester UK
>
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.




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From: pdillon <pdillon@club-internet.fr>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Arthritis
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Dear ALL,
Aged 44, or somewhere about that.
Don't suffer from Arthritis- but the memory, that's another story!
Also seem to recall( read what I mean about memory) from the past the
Beekeepers tend to suffer from deafness- what about a survey on that?
Regards
Peter
P.S. FOUL weather here in France- many hive have already thrown out
their drones!!



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Drop by our stand, if you get a moment, come and look at the stuff we have
on offer.. We'll be there 'with bells on' as the saying goes.
    There was a post from Carmen recently regarding 'Essential oils', you
might take a look at our 'Hints & Tips' area click on 'Essential oils...anti
Varroa' it might give you some ideas.
David Eyre.
The Bee Works,
admin@beeworks.com
http://www.beeworks.com

"Teri Bachus" <bachmoz@aug.com> wrote in message
news:so0bf0de3j1124@corp.supernews.com...
> Greg the beekeep wrote on 07/09/2000:
>
> > It's been three years since I've been. Being that it is in my home state
I
> decided to go. Anyone else?
>
> hope to bee there for the american bee research conference, aug.4-5...any
> others planning to go?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>




Article 26199 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: Arthritis
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On Thu, 27 Jul 2000 23:53:13 +0100, pdillon <pdillon@club-internet.fr>
wrote:

>Dear ALL,
>Aged 44, or somewhere about that.
>Don't suffer from Arthritis- but the memory, that's another story!
>Also seem to recall( read what I mean about memory) from the past the
>Beekeepers tend to suffer from deafness- what about a survey on that?
>Regards
>Peter
>P.S. FOUL weather here in France- many hive have already thrown out
>their drones!!

The deafness goes away when you pull the bees out of your ears.

beekeep




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From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter)
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Date: 28 Jul 2000 00:27:13 GMT
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Subject: Re: Arthritis
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Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:26200

Beekeepers going deaf? nah
You can tell a beekeeper
You just can't tell him much.


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


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>
>The deafness goes away when you pull the bees out of your ears.
>
>beekeep
>
>
>

Ya'  I don't think so ( I am deaf too) I got stunk behind ear but, Didn't
works. If it did works, I would have gone out to find a big one!


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From: Bill Wallace <beekeeper@winco.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Foundation ?
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 20:53:02 -0500
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Hi All Hope everyone is having a good year
I would like to know what foundation everyone likes and why.
Going to expand my Hobby to more of a business and I could use the input
thank you for your time.



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Subject: Re: Essential oils and Varroa...?
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>oh and by the way.... where are you from tim?
>peace 'n' aroha
>carman
>NZ
>>
From a free Country of USA and in a State of Va.             
                  Tim


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>P.S. FOUL weather here in France- many hive have already thrown out
>their drones!!
>

 My have been throw out their Drones this week too.


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From: "Hugh Kernohan" <kernohan@netcomuk.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Hobby Beekeeping in the UK ..?
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 of course there are the new recruits who join beekeeping in the UK because
of a chance event like a swarm arriving and assume that we will just have to
manage varroa but that foulbrood sounds much worse........

I do read that the numbers of beekeepers reached a peak in WorldWar2 and
have been falling ever since and there is some laughing in our local
beekeeping club about the average age of the members ...................




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Hugh Kernohan <kernohan@netcomuk.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8lns6i$mfd$1@lyonesse.netcom.net.uk...
> of course there are the new recruits who join beekeeping in the UK because
> of a chance event like a swarm arriving and assume that we will just have
to
> manage varroa but that foulbrood sounds much worse........
>
> I do read that the numbers of beekeepers reached a peak in WorldWar2 and
> have been falling ever since and there is some laughing in our local
> beekeeping club about the average age of the members ...................
>
the information you offer here about the peak of beekeeping and the falling
numbers is also the same here in our country
there used to be a whole different attitude to beekeeping and beekeeper.
the realisations of the importance of the industry and the functions of bees
has also significantly declined.
I think it true to say that the average citizen just doesn't realise how
crucial apiaries are for the agricultural and horticulture industries as
well as the economy in general.

there is also a lack of suitably experienced and/or qualified people here to
tend commercial apiaries, the industry is screaming out for beekeepers,  in
fact it is one of the few industries in nz that are having difficulty
recruiting
This is reflected in the fact that the  Telford Rural Polytech has reduced
the cost of their correspondence Apiarist course to $450 p/a ... it used to
cost thousands to complete the 2 year certificate  now it is a total cost of
$900 to complete the course, just to attract people to the industry.

also regarding the age of members in beekeeping clubs....same here
we are the youngest members of our local club... the others are mostly  in
their 70's
i took my 10 year old nephew into a hive about 3 weeks ago...thought i'd get
him started early...his interest only lasted abut 3 minutes then the bees
started to chase him
but it's a start
carman




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>what is wintergreen candy?
>do you mean like sweets?
>carman
>

Yep. They are green and white or Red and white candy that sell in Store. Near
Fall's season when I go out shopping, Most Store Mang. have a basket of candy
on the counter ( free) I just grab few handful for my bees. :-)
                        Tim


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Current theory is an overactive immune system attacking the joints as a cause
for the non wear and tear types of arthritis.. Bee stings can put the immune
response on overdrive so it makes some sense that stings can cause arthritis.


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


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> "Peter Edwards"wrote:
> There was a report in the British Medical Journal recently that bee
>stings, far from alleviating arthritis as many of us thought, can
>actually cause it.

> In the meantime could we take a quick poll of this newsgroup?  If
>everyone
> reading this replies with a 'yes' or 'no' we might get some idea
>whether
> this is a problem or not.  At least we would find out how many read
>the newsgroup!
>
> So do you suffer from arthritis (or suspect that you might)?
****************************************************************

  Howdy Peter --

  After working with bees for 66 years, and being a veterinarian for
50 years, I do have some arthritis.  But it from injuries -- not from
bee stings.

            Pete
So much to learn - So little time !
**************************************************


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 26210 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Jan Coetsee" <janc@lando.co.za>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Arthritis
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 09:29:29 +0200
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I suffer from old injuries, but find that a sting or two relieves the pain
for about a week!, can't say that a sting will cause it

"Peter Edwards" <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in
message news:8lnmin$88o$1@newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk...
> There was a report in the British Medical Journal recently that bee
stings,
> far from alleviating arthritis as many of us thought, can actually cause
it.
>
> Apparently a study was based on a village in Spain where a large number of
> the population are beekeepers.  Interestingly, blood tests for arthritis
> were negative (apparently this can happen with certain types of
arthritis).
>
> I also heard a report on the radio this week which confirmed this view and
> suggested that bee stings can cause AND relieve arthritis - they relieve
it
> away from the sting site, but cause it around the area that has been
stung.
>
> This item was particularly interesting to me as I have been suffering from
> painful joints recently.
>
> This might be a good area for our national associations to investigate,
but
> in the meantime could we take a quick poll of this newsgroup?  If everyone
> reading this replies with a 'yes' or 'no' we might get some idea whether
> this is a problem or not.  At least we would find out how many read the
> newsgroup!
>
> So do you suffer from arthritis (or suspect that you might)?
>
>




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From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Essential oils and Varroa...?
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 21:14:17 +1200
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thanks Peter
saved for further reference

Peter Edwards <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in
message news:8llufh$rgt$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk...
> This is very old material - try this one:
>
> http://www.apis.admin.ch/
>
> I have used thymol before/after the honey flow combined with oxalic acid
> drip treatment in November exclusively for the three years since first
> finding varroa.
>
> Thymol (1 teaspoonful) is placed in an old honey jar lid resting on the
> queen excluder and is topped up weekly for 4 weeks.  Oxalic 60g, water 1
> litre, sugar 300g is dripped at the rate of 5cc per seam of bees.
>
> Until last week when I found half a dozen on the screen under one hive, I
> have been unable to find any varroa this year; all other screens were
clear.
>
>
> "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> news:8lj9ds$rub$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> > Greetings All
> > I found a website with "results of research using essential oils for
Honey
> > Bee Mite control"
> >
> > http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/varroa/varroa2.htm#Timing
> >
> > I am interested to know whether anyone here has tried these?
> > many thanks
> > carman
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>




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Subject: Re: Arthritis
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On Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:17:36 +0100, "Peter Edwards"
<edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:

>There was a report in the British Medical Journal recently that bee stings,
>far from alleviating arthritis as many of us thought, can actually cause it.
>
I have shipped bees to over 2000 people for bee venom therapy and have
never heard of this problem.  I have gotten a lot of calls from people
with MS using the bees that have said their arthritis has disappeared.
Women suddenly getting pregnant is also a side effect of the bee
stings!

beekeep



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Subject: Re: Essential oils and Varroa...?
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>are you on the hexamine again tim?

LOL, No way.
>
>i seriously doubt that store brought striped candy will save your bees from
It not strip type candy. Its is in a little wraper paper and 1/4 in thick and
round in shape. Wonder if were talk about two different things? But, anyway the
candy already contain Winter green oil. If you pop it in month, you could felt
the air pass way open up pretty wide open and easy to breath. Try Cool Mint (
Light Clear Blue). Thanks for the Web site.
                                  Tim




Article 26214 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Essential oils and Varroa...?
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 00:03:37 +1200
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Blue Taz37 <bluetaz37@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000727070204.08347.00000653@ng-fj1.aol.com...
> >are you on the hexamine again tim?
>
> LOL, No way.
> >
> >i seriously doubt that store brought striped candy will save your bees
from
> It not strip type candy. Its is in a little wraper paper and 1/4 in thick
and
> round in shape. Wonder if were talk about two different things? But,
anyway the
> candy already contain Winter green oil. If you pop it in month, you could
felt
> the air pass way open up pretty wide open and easy to breath. Try Cool
Mint (
> Light Clear Blue). Thanks for the Web site.
>                                   Tim

oh it contains wintergreen already
i thought you musta been pulling my leg
( that is a colloquial phrase which means joking with me)
we don't have that type of candy over here
we just have standard stripey peppermint candy sticks
that children like
i'd never even heard of wintergreen until i started researching the organic
beekeeping sites
this is all new to me
very exciting
although varroa is the kind of excitement that i don't really need
however i am hot on the trail of wintergreen
i found several  places that stock a range of essential
oils that include the wintergreen
patchoulli peppermint etc (in separate bottles of course)
oh well if it doesn't work to help save the bees from varroa.... at least i
might smell absolutely gorgeous
(hehe)
oh and by the way.... where are you from tim?
peace 'n' aroha
carman
NZ
>




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From: "Jorn Johanesson" <Jorn_Johanesson@apimo.dk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: oxalic acid drip treatment- what is it?
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Try to read the report at my site.

--
 EDBi = multilingual Beekeeping software since 1987
 http://apimo.dk (USA)
 mailto:Jorn_Johanesson@apimo.dk






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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 11:07:00 GMT
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In article <O2ZGq749$GA.318@cpmsnbbsa08>,
  "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote:
> "In the fall, when fruit is ripe, yellow jackets will feed on the
juices of
> fruits with broken skins.  They may also bite and break fruit skins,
something
> that honey bees cannot do because their mandibles are not of the
biting type"
>
> Quoted from:
> ABC and XYZ of Bee Culture, 40th edition; written by Roger A. Morse;
copyright
> 1990;
> page 278, second column, third paragraph.
>
   My gut feeling is that Mr. Morse does not speak the truth. I've
never been bitten by a honeybee but I have watched a relatively small
worker bee grasp a large struggling drone in her mandibles and dump him
off of the landing board of the hive. I've also seen how the chew
through wood, and I suspect they chew the metal in the feeder lids. I
know the holes in mason jar lids keep getting larger so that too much
syrup is released unless I replace the lids.
    It's hard to believe they couldn't bite through fruit skins if they
wanted to. Perhaps they don't simply because it's not worth the effort
as long as there are better sources of nectar available????

         Herb

PS   Thanks for the info about queen selection, Carman. We'll have to
try that. I have observed that cleanliness is extremely important to a
hive.


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 26217 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Nuc making
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 23:53:56 +1200
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i prefer to do the newspaper thing
until they adjust to the new-bees (hehe pun)
it is quite possible the bees may fight amongst themselves
and i don't believe the newspaper maneouvre is a time consuming or difficult
thing
better to be safe then have dead bees on the floor
carman

Joel Govostes <jwg6@cornell.edu> wrote in message
news:397E581D.9BF64542@cornell.edu...
> You don't need to use the newspaper at all.  Just put them together.
There
> won't be any trouble.  Hopefully the queen will develop successfully,
emerge,
> mate and lay eggs OK.
>
> One thing, though -- don't count on a very productive queen being reared
from
> such a tiny colony.  She might end up a dud.  "Emergency" queens from a
very
> small colony are often reared with insufficient feeding, and so end up
"runty.'
>
> It is not _always_ the case, though.  You never know.  Give her a shot,
and you
> just might be surprised...
>
> Good luck --
>
> jwg
> nr. Ithaca, NY
>
> Tom Allen wrote:
>
> > My observation hive is struggling to make a new queen. There hasn't been
a
> > queen for 2-3 weeks. A couple of superceedure cells appear to have been
> > still born. Best I can tell, a third is being fed before capping. Would
it
> > be OK to combine that frame in a nuc with some bees and brood or do I
need
> > to do a newspaper thing? (I've used a sheet of newspaper when combining
a
> > queenless swarm with a colony. The new bees, trapped in a brood chamber,
eat
> > through the sheet in a day or so to the main hive. Something about
> > pheromones and acceptance.)
> >
> > Tom
>




Article 26218 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Formic acid results from NC
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>..btw, what are you asking for the bee vacs (instead of
>brushy mntn.'s inflated prices?)
>

Once brushy has sold the remaining vac's
that they have in stock, i'll let ya know.

seems like they have a few left.
with my health and money situation i just cant build em 20 at the time anymore.


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC



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From: n.s.birchall@lboro.ac.uk (Stephen Birchall)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: borage honey
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 14:42:34 +0100
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thanking you all for your responses.

I must admit that when I tasted borage honey I suspected that it had been
'enhanced' with commercial sucrose. Happily, the sucrose content would
seem to be of natural origin. It's a shame that the taste isn't better.

I wonder what a mixture of borage and rape would taste like ? 
 - hopefully an improvement on both.

Another question,
rape will set pretty quickly - oh what fun to extract in a cool climate !  
I am wondering what is generally reckoned to be the worst honey to extract

?

Steve


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From: Abdulaziz (asiray0a) <asiray0a@my-deja.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Foundation ?
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 13:47:23 GMT
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In talking about foundations, are there any cell sizes ohter than the standrad
brood and drone size. In other words, would i have found foundation with cell
size less than the standard size?

Thanks, Abdulaziz


In article <3980E77E.EC6790F7@winco.net>,
  Bill Wallace <beekeeper@winco.net> wrote:
> Hi All Hope everyone is having a good year
> I would like to know what foundation everyone likes and why.
> Going to expand my Hobby to more of a business and I could use the input
> thank you for your time.
>
>


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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From: Abdulaziz (asiray0a) <asiray0a@my-deja.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Foundation ?
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In talking about foundations, are there any cell sizes ohter than the standrad
brood and drone size. In other words, would i have found foundation with cell
size less than the standard size?

Thanks, Abdulaziz


In article <3980E77E.EC6790F7@winco.net>,
  Bill Wallace <beekeeper@winco.net> wrote:
> Hi All Hope everyone is having a good year
> I would like to know what foundation everyone likes and why.
> Going to expand my Hobby to more of a business and I could use the input
> thank you for your time.
>
>


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 26222 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com>
References: <8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz> <8lnish$t8i$1@news.wave.co.nz> <O2ZGq749$GA.318@cpmsnbbsa08> <8losj7$7ur$1@news.wave.co.nz> <8lp46i$akn$1@saltmine.radix.net>
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 15:34:36 -0700
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Hi,
When I had time today, I tried to find the article you reference, can you
point me in the right direction (if it is available on the internet)?  I did
find a LOT of information regarding the resistance of the Cerana species (in
varroa), and their ability to defend themselves against the 'giant hornet'
(which the Mellifera cannot do), which would indicate more of a biting mouth
(the article didn't specify).  It did say that the Cerana species was
different enough from the Mellifera species that it is not possible to cross
the two species, even through instrumental insemination (yielding non viable
eggs).  It would be interesting to learn more.  I understand 'stingless' bees
have quite an ability to bite, so they are certainly not defenseless for lack
of a sting!
Thanks
Niki

J & N F.

Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.


"Adam Finkelstein" <adamf@saltmine.radix.net> wrote in message
news:8lp46i$akn$1@saltmine.radix.net...
> There's a mid- 90's paper done by Ruttner et al on mandible SHAPE and
efficacy
> for varroa biting by _Apis mellifera_. Shape of mandible is compared to
_Apis
> cerana_ mandibles.
>
> Varroa tolerence will most likely be a combination of hygenic traits,
shorter
> development time, and mandible shape. Selecting for these traits and other
> generally positive traits should prove interesting.
>
> I've not seen much "I'm a beekeeper because I know blah blah blah"
> flames on this newsgroup before. I'd urge posters to continue with the
trend.
> Have a happy day. :-)
>
> Adam
> --
> Adam Finkelstein
> adamf@radix.net
> http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf



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From: Barry Birkey <barry@birkey.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Foundation ?
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 10:48:10 -0500
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> From: Abdulaziz (asiray0a) <asiray0a@my-deja.com>

> In talking about foundations, are there any cell sizes ohter than the standrad
> brood and drone size. In other words, would i have found foundation with cell
> size less than the standard size?

AFAIK, the smallest cell size foundation available in the States is from:

Miller's Honey Company
125 East Laurel
P.O. Box 500
Colton, CA 92324
Ph: 909-825-1722
Fax: 909-825-5932
Hours: 9-5, M-F

I received a sample of brood foundation and it measures 5.2mm per ten cells.
Beyond that, you could hook up with another beekeeper that has their own
4.9mm mill and make your own.

Regards,
Barry

-- 
Webmeister
www.BeeSource.com



Article 26224 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com>
References: <8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz> <eQP6NQy9$GA.77@cpmsnbbsa08> <8lnish$t8i$1@news.wave.co.nz> <O2ZGq749$GA.318@cpmsnbbsa08> <8losj7$7ur$1@news.wave.co.nz> <OtW6th$9$GA.585@cpmsnbbsa08> <8lq47q$hrg$1@news.wave.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
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Hi there Carman,
Yellow Jacket is a somewhat generic term that many people use to describe a
group of yellow & black striped insects (including paper wasps & mud daubers)
that are many times referred to as 'bees' by people unfamiliar with bees.
They are actually hornets/wasps.  The only one I actually call yellow jacket
is the "European Yellow Jacket" (Vespula germanica), and around here (western
US) they nest in the ground.  They are real party animals and are often found
at picnics enjoying hamburgers & orange soda!  They eat insects, nectar, (&
honeybees!), people food, just about anything.  They will steal honey to eat
too, but do not store honey.  Sometimes they can be pretty ornery, though that
may vary somewhat by genetics & locale, as others I've talked to are adamant
that they won't bother you if you don't bother them, but I've experienced a
lot of aggression from them.

As far as my comment, I'm sorry, I did not mean to put words into your mouth.
I know I wasn't quoting, but expressing what the words seemed to say to me, &
perhaps I took it wrong.  I'm definitely not a fighter (or flamer), by any
stretch of the imagination.  I'm just now coming out of a three day migraine,
and have been feeling a little kicked around lately.  I appreciate your
understanding words.  I've only been reading this group for around a month, so
I am an outsider as far as that goes.  I have received some real helpful
answers, though, to the few questions I've posted.  I've only been reading
about & learning about bees for the last 4 years or so and only kept bees for
the last 2-3 years.  Thank you for taking the time to answer me.  :)

Niki

--


J & N F.

Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.


"Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
news:8lq47q$hrg$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> what's a yellow jacket?
> and
> regarding your comment
> "you told me I must not be a bee keeper or I'd
>  know better.  "
> actually
> I believe I didn't say anything like that
> i said " i am guessing ..."
> mainly because i have seen evidence of bees chewing thru all sorts of things
> quite regularly
> ,maybe e have different type of bees from you guys
> we have the italian ones
> but anyway i sympathise if you felt insulted by my words
> carman
>
>
> J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
> news:OtW6th$9$GA.585@cpmsnbbsa08...
> > Carman,
> > Thank you for the Dadant reference, I have two Dadant books, but do not
> have
> > that one.  I will look into it.
> >
> > The reason I was familiar with the quote regarding inability to 'bite' is
> > because last fall the yellow jackets were incredibly bad & they spent all
> day
> > hanging outside the hives grabbing honey bees as they returned, and they
> were
> > seemingly defenseless, as the yellow jackets do have biting mandibles &
> would
> > grab a honey bee and sever it in two.  The honey bees, of course, tried to
> > defend themselves, but were not able to 'sever' any piece of the yellow
> > jackets (they certainly are able to grasp & drag, sometimes things larger
> than
> > themselves).  Pieces of dead bees littered the ground outside the hive.  I
> > went to the books to see if there was anything I could do to help my honey
> > bees in this assault they were going through, and read up on yellow
> jackets,
> > which is where I came upon that information.
> >
> > When you said what you did about the bees biting, all I said was I didn't
> > think they could bite (based on what research I'd done) & asked where you
> read
> > about it, so I could do more reading about it.  Instead of telling me
> where
> > your information came from, you told me I must not be a bee keeper or I'd
> > know better.  Yes, I am aware honey bees chew & have grasping mandibles,
> > though as far as chewing wood or metal, as has been mentioned, I've seen
> no
> > evidence of that personally (not in honey bees, anyway).  Perhaps it is
> the
> > degree of grasping ability, i.e. strength and/or sharpness, which may
> enhance
> > it's abilities to the point of being referred to as 'biting'.  I was not
> > challenging your knowledge or experience, but attempting to expand my own.
> > Just taking my question at face value, your answer was not helpful and
> > somewhat insulting, which is why I quoted where my information had come
> from,
> > and in fact was all I wanted from you, a source for further research.   I
> > certainly to not consider myself an expert on bee anatomy (I'm sure I
> never
> > will be), but attempt to learn as I go through life.   As soon as I know
> it
> > all, I'll quit asking questions & reading books.
> >
> > Niki
> > --
> >
> >
> > J & N F.
> >
> > Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> > Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
> >
> >
> > "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> > news:8losj7$7ur$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> > >
> > > J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
> > > news:O2ZGq749$GA.318@cpmsnbbsa08...
> > > > "In the fall, when fruit is ripe, yellow jackets will feed on the
> juices
> > > of
> > > > fruits with broken skins.  They may also bite and break fruit skins,
> > > something
> > > > that honey bees cannot do because their mandibles are not of the
> biting
> > > type"
> > > >
> > > > Quoted from:
> > > > ABC and XYZ of Bee Culture, 40th edition; written by Roger A. Morse;
> > > copyright
> > > > 1990;
> > > > page 278, second column, third paragraph.
> > > >
> > > > I had only asked where you read about it, & yes, I am a beekeeper.
> > > >
> > > > Niki
> > > >
> > >
> > > hehe
> > > i think that is a different type of biting
> > > but i know they sure love to suck up the juice of fruits once the birds
> and
> > > insects have open them up
> > > Our MAF officer visited a club evening and we were discussing that if
> bees
> > > are selected by strain for their good cleaning habits, they  are able to
> > > catch the mites and they  most certainly will bite them.
> > >
> > > have you ever united a hive?
> > > have you seen how quickly the bees will chew through the paper
> > > it only takes a matter of hours before they completely ngaw thru it
> > >
> > > highly efficient chewing devices
> > >
> > > and if you would like a reference regarding the chewing devices try "the
> > > hive and the Honey Bee"   isbn 0 915698 09-9 Joe M Graham Dadant and
> Sons
> > > this is the Beekeepers bible over here and the text used by Telford
> Rural
> > > Polytech.
> > > page 116 "the worker bee uses uses it's mandables for eating pollen,
> workig
> > > the wax in the comb building ... and for doing the chores about the hive
> > > that require a pair of grasping instruments"
> > > carman
> > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > J & N F.
> > > >
> > > > Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> > > > Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> > > > news:8lnish$t8i$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> > > > >
> > > > > J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:eQP6NQy9$GA.77@cpmsnbbsa08...
> > > > > > I didn't think honeybees had facilities for biting.  Where did you
> > > read
> > > > > about
> > > > > > this?
> > > > > > Niki
> > > > > >
> > > > > of course they have facility for biting
> > > > > how do you think they shape and mould wax?
> > > > > and deal with propolis
> > > > > i am guessing you are not a beekeeper....?
> > > > > if you are an experienced beekeeper
> > > > > you would know they chew thru paper when you are uniting hives
> > > > > they can even chew wood
> > > > > carman
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > J & N F.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the
> truth;
> > > > > > Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz...
> > > > > > > Greetings All
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Apparently the bees who display excellent cleaning habits are
> able
> > > to
> > > > > build
> > > > > > > resistence to Varroa.... catching the mite and biting them.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > There is talk here about breeding and queen selection based on
> good
> > > hive

> >
>
>





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From: Dale Scheidler <dscheidl@wp.bsu.edu>
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Carman wrote:
> 
> Greetings All
> 
> Apparently the bees who display excellent cleaning habits are able to build
> resistence to Varroa.... catching the mite and biting them.
> 
> There is talk here about breeding and queen selection based on good hive
> cleaning habits.
> 
> The research i have seen so far indicates that the way to select queens  to
> breed populations of good cleaning habit, is to take a frame of capped
> brood,  using a needle, pin or other sharp object puncture about 9 cappings
> to form a circle of exposed brood.
> leave for 2-3 days, then return to inspect the frame.
> if the bees have superior cleaning habit, the larvae inside the punctured
> cappings would have been removed and there should be a clearly visible
> circle of empty brood chamber.
> This is the recommended way to select a queen to increase the possibility of
> superior cleaning behaviour ... bees of this trait are said to have better
> chance at increased resistence to the mite.
> 
> Do others here select based on that trait?
> Are you finding good success rate for mite resistence?
> (this is sssssoh fun,   i tell people here that  i talk to bee keepers from
> the rest of the world, they think it's cool !)
> many thanks
> carman

Dear Fellow Beekeepers:

I have one of the new Russian queens released to beekeepers this season
that is supposed to do good at resisting the Varroa mite.  I have yet to
evaluate this colony to see if it has lower mite levels compared to my
other 18 colonies.  I plan to do an uncapping test of drone brood and
see if this Russian colony has lower varroa populations.  Will let you
know via this newsgroup when I get this accomplished.

Best regards,
Dale, Indiana


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I prefer wired, all wax foundation. I use grooved top and bottom bars, and
use a Dadant wedge inserter and wedges to fasten the foundation. I've had
good results. Only 7 blowouts last season on 2500 medium frames.

Bill Wallace wrote:

> Hi All Hope everyone is having a good year
> I would like to know what foundation everyone likes and why.
> Going to expand my Hobby to more of a business and I could use the input
> thank you for your time.





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Hunting info on processing propolis - just purchased 2 traps, would like to
process it myself?  Any ideas, comments?

Thanks,
Walt




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On Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:17:36 +0100, "Peter Edwards" <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:

>There was a report in the British Medical Journal recently that bee stings,
>far from alleviating arthritis as many of us thought, can actually cause it.
>
>Apparently a study was based on a village in Spain where a large number of
>the population are beekeepers.  Interestingly, blood tests for arthritis
>were negative (apparently this can happen with certain types of arthritis).
>
Dear Peter,  

Do you know when this report was in the BMJ?  I would like to read it.

Thank you.

Tom


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From: James Kilty <honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Hobby Beekeeping in the UK ..?
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 23:47:00 +0100
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In article <8llufp$rgt$2@news6.svr.pol.co.uk>, Peter Edwards
<edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk> writes
>Our local association membership has fallen from a peak of 112 to about 50 -
>but does now show some signs of increasing slightly.
>
>"Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
>news:8lj7js$rg4$2@news.wave.co.nz...
>in the UK,  the majority of
>> hobbyist Beekeepers quit beekeeping because of the problems associated
>with
>> Varroa Mite.
Ours in West Cornwall is somewhat static but because we have matched our
"retirements" with our course students. About half have now done our
basic course. So we would have been like Peter's group, though we are
now about the same size as them. The students are all familiar with
dealing with varroa. The same story has been told throughout Europe.
Numbers and honey production fall and then rise again about 2 years on.
Quality and productivity improve with better overall standards of
management. But large concerns were hit too as people tried to use
ineffective methods.
-- 
James Kilty


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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 23:58:59 +0100
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In article <eQP6NQy9$GA.77@cpmsnbbsa08>, J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease
@email.msn.com> writes
>I didn't think honeybees had facilities for biting.  Where did you read about
>this?
One of my friends has bees that bite without stinging and others that
bite before stinging. He doesn't wear any gloves. I use thin household
rubber gloves so I haven't experienced this.
-- 
James Kilty


Article 26231 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Keith B. Forsyth" <ad387@hwcn.org>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Ontario's Kortright Centre Honey & Organic Harvest Festival
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 19:20:55 -0400
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For those within the Toronto, Canada driving distance the following may be
of interest.
www.kortright.org/calender.html

Honey & Organic Harvest Festival
August 26 - 27, 10:00 a.m to 4:00 p.m.
BUZZZZZZ! BUZZZZ! BUZZZ! - Is the word that best describes this weekend at
Kortright. Kortright has been Mecca for those wanting fresh honey, to see
bee hives and a bee keeper working with the bees for ages. Now the annual
honey festival has a new natural twist - organic harvest foods! Come
discover the wonderful world of bees, honey and other organic harvest foods.
Also, enjoy guided hikes to the beehouse, learn how to do a bee dance
that'll really impress your friends and buy fresh honey and other organic
products direct from a variety of vendors. Free with your paid admission to
Kortright. There is a $2 parking fee.

Plus, Daily
- Self-guided Honeybee Trail June through September.
- Self-guided tour of Kortright's Sustainable Living Centre Kids Crafts and
Activities available
- Binoculars available on all guided and unguided birding activities.
- Amphibians of Ontario - see a wonderful panaram display of Amphibians of
Ontario on tour from the Royal Ontario Museum. Kortright's new Butterfly
Nursery Visit Kortright's all new Butterfly Nursery in the Centre for
Sustainable Living and watch the complete life cycle of the Monarch
butterfly and other species. Visitors will have the opportunity to see the
Monarch in all the stage of development and take part in live releases of
this vulnerable species.
Weekday Programs: Every weekday during summer school holidays (July and
August)we offer guided family programs at 11:30 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. Two new
topics every week. Ask for our summer schedule.






Article 26232 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com>
References: <3980E77E.EC6790F7@winco.net><8ls2t9$f6r$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <B5A7156A.5C61%barry@birkey.com>
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What are the reasons for wanting smaller cell sizes?  Just curious.
Niki

--


J & N F.

Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.


"Barry Birkey" <barry@birkey.com> wrote in message
news:B5A7156A.5C61%barry@birkey.com...
> > From: Abdulaziz (asiray0a) <asiray0a@my-deja.com>
>
> > In talking about foundations, are there any cell sizes ohter than the
standrad
> > brood and drone size. In other words, would i have found foundation with
cell
> > size less than the standard size?
>
> AFAIK, the smallest cell size foundation available in the States is from:
>
> Miller's Honey Company
> 125 East Laurel
> P.O. Box 500
> Colton, CA 92324
> Ph: 909-825-1722
> Fax: 909-825-5932
> Hours: 9-5, M-F
>
> I received a sample of brood foundation and it measures 5.2mm per ten cells.
> Beyond that, you could hook up with another beekeeper that has their own
> 4.9mm mill and make your own.
>
> Regards,
> Barry
>
> --
> Webmeister
> www.BeeSource.com
>



Article 26233 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "busybee" <beebiz@frontiernet.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 23:16:43 -0500
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Is this research being conducted at the University of Minnesota?

Carman <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
news:8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz...
> Greetings All
>
> Apparently the bees who display excellent cleaning habits are able to
build
> resistence to Varroa.... catching the mite and biting them.
>
> There is talk here about breeding and queen selection based on good hive
> cleaning habits.
>
> The research i have seen so far indicates that the way to select queens
to
> breed populations of good cleaning habit, is to take a frame of capped


> brood,  using a needle, pin or other sharp object puncture about 9
cappings
> to form a circle of exposed brood.
> leave for 2-3 days, then return to inspect the frame.
> if the bees have superior cleaning habit, the larvae inside the punctured
> cappings would have been removed and there should be a clearly visible
> circle of empty brood chamber.
> This is the recommended way to select a queen to increase the possibility
of
> superior cleaning behaviour ... bees of this trait are said to have better
> chance at increased resistence to the mite.
>
> Do others here select based on that trait?
> Are you finding good success rate for mite resistence?
> (this is sssssoh fun,   i tell people here that  i talk to bee keepers
from
> the rest of the world, they think it's cool !)
> many thanks
> carman
>
>
>
>
>
>




Article 26234 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
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J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote in message
news:eJUAvzM#$GA.64@cpmsnbbsa07...
thanks for your expolanation on yellow jackets etc

snip
>I have received some real helpful
> answers, though, to the few questions I've posted.  I've only been reading
> about & learning about bees for the last 4 years or so and only kept bees
for
> the last 2-3 years.  Thank you for taking the time to answer me.  :)
>
> Niki

i think the best advice i have received from an ol' timer
is to get in there amongst the bees and get into the hives as often as
possible.
i've found it's ok to get the intellectual stuff out of the manual and books
but all that doesn't have any validity until you actually get in amogst the
bees and experience the things you've read about.

on the other hand... no good going into a hive and not knowing what you are
looking at either.... been there done that... made too many mistakes... all
in the name of learning i guess

I'm studying for the Apiarist certificate thru correspondence
polytech...mainly it's all  theory but in so doing,  i have learned some
valuable things which have practical application and go some way to
understanding the physiology, needs, flight patterns, communication
behaviours of the bees.....
If you can do some study in that manner it would be very helpful... and
you'll get to understand lots of scientific stuff about bees.

but any good course will also tell you that
it is helpful to know about what flowers in your region.... ie the trees and
shrubs that are available for food sources throughout the year....if you
have a piece of land it is also helpful to plant lots of herbs and forage
trees... you'll never regret it
for example we have 3 hives at home ... here we have planted lots of
lavendar...sage...borage all sorts of things
we also have 7 hives at another location which is mainly farm land with
paddocks in clover and little else
The flavour of our honey extracted from the home hives is absolutely devine
!!!
while the 'away' stuff is somewhat bland and sweet but flavourless.... so
spend some time to observe what is growing in the area where your hives
are... and if possible situate your hoves where there are many interesting
and flavourful plants.. that will offer resources to the bees all year
around.

but the bottom line is this you can read everybook and every manual on this
earth .. but if you don't get into the hives and see how the theory applies
then it is all for nothing
also a really excellent idea  is to put a glass window on your house
somewhere and build a hive onto your house, or observatory.... so you can
look inside the hive from your house....or wherever... that is a dream of
mine one day to have an observation hive....there is a beekeeper on this ng
who has posted website with pictures of such hives...i have it saved in my
favourites file... hopefully when we get around to it we might build one...
well must go
lots of busy business to do
carman


> --
>
>
> J & N F.
>
> Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
>
>
> "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> news:8lq47q$hrg$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> > what's a yellow jacket?
> > and
> > regarding your comment
> > "you told me I must not be a bee keeper or I'd
> >  know better.  "
> > actually
> > I believe I didn't say anything like that
> > i said " i am guessing ..."
> > mainly because i have seen evidence of bees chewing thru all sorts of
things
> > quite regularly
> > ,maybe e have different type of bees from you guys
> > we have the italian ones
> > but anyway i sympathise if you felt insulted by my words
> > carman
> >
> >





Article 26235 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Peter Edwards" <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: borage honey
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 18:32:15 +0100
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Heather - but you can ease the pain by eating the odd chunk of comb from
time to time!

(Difficult to imagine anything more insipid than borage and rape mixed).
"Stephen Birchall" <n.s.birchall@lboro.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:n.s.birchall-2807001442340001@pmac-cdnsb.lut.ac.uk...
> thanking you all for your responses.
>
> I must admit that when I tasted borage honey I suspected that it had been
> 'enhanced' with commercial sucrose. Happily, the sucrose content would
> seem to be of natural origin. It's a shame that the taste isn't better.
>
> I wonder what a mixture of borage and rape would taste like ?
>  - hopefully an improvement on both.
>
> Another question,
> rape will set pretty quickly - oh what fun to extract in a cool climate !
> I am wondering what is generally reckoned to be the worst honey to extract
>
> ?
>
> Steve




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From: helmick@webtv.net (donna helmick)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Essential oils and Varroa...?
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 09:52:47 -0400 (EDT)
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Try Walmart's pharmacy for essential oils.  Most pharmacies sell the
little tiny bottles from their counters, but if you ask, Walmart will
order larger amounts for you. 

I have never checked any other pharmacies and so I am not sure if they
special order essential oils or not.

These oils are very concentrated, so advise you add them to your syrup,
etc. with care. I use an eyedropper.

Your West Virginia neighbor,
Donna



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From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Breeding for Varroa resistence
Date: 29 Jul 2000 09:19:16 -0400
Organization: Self-Organized.      Dig that.
Message-ID: <8lulkk$jfj$1@saltmine.radix.net>
References: <8lmjg8$lu2$2@news.wave.co.nz> <8losj7$7ur$1@news.wave.co.nz> <8lp46i$akn$1@saltmine.radix.net> <#IcMLrB#$GA.77@cpmsnbbsa08>
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In article <#IcMLrB#$GA.77@cpmsnbbsa08>,
J & N F. <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote:
>Hi,
>When I had time today, I tried to find the article you reference, can you
>point me in the right direction (if it is available on the internet)?  

Hi. Sadly, most scientific papers are not on the internet yet. It's more
prestigious to publish in a "hard copy" journal anyway.

Here's the citation for the article:
F.Ruttner and H.Hanel, 1992: Active defense against _Varroa_ mites in a
Carniolan strain of honeybee (_Apis mellifera carnica_ Pollmann),
_Apidologie_, 23: 173-187.
-- 
Adam Finkelstein
adamf@radix.net
http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf


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From: Abdulaziz (asiray0a) <asiray0a@my-deja.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Foundation ?
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 18:09:15 GMT
Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy.
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The reason behind the small size foundation is as follows.

I am keeping bees that are little bit smaller than the CARNIOLAN bees size.
They are currently live inside hives made of hollow tree. They are making
their combs completely from nothing and that takes long time and consume more
honey. Therefore, I picked one the colony and hived it in a modern hives with
a regular available foundations. However, the bees draw the combs with
thicker wall thickness in order to reduce the cell diameter. You may imagine
what that looks like. Thicker thickness means more wax is needed, more honey
consumed and more time to draw combs. That is why!

I would appreciate if you can help me with this.


Abdulaziz

In article <e$d60ON#$GA.253@cpmsnbbsa07>,
  "J & N F." <johnniki#nospamplease@email.msn.com> wrote:
> What are the reasons for wanting smaller cell sizes?  Just curious.
> Niki
>
> --
>
> J & N F.
>
> Whether or not you speak the truth; Whether or not you hear the truth;
> Whether or not you even know the truth; it is still the truth.
>
> "Barry Birkey" <barry@birkey.com> wrote in message
> news:B5A7156A.5C61%barry@birkey.com...
> > > From: Abdulaziz (asiray0a) <asiray0a@my-deja.com>
> >
> > > In talking about foundations, are there any cell sizes ohter than the
> standrad
> > > brood and drone size. In other words, would i have found foundation with
> cell
> > > size less than the standard size?
> >
> > AFAIK, the smallest cell size foundation available in the States is from:
> >
> > Miller's Honey Company
> > 125 East Laurel
> > P.O. Box 500
> > Colton, CA 92324
> > Ph: 909-825-1722
> > Fax: 909-825-5932
> > Hours: 9-5, M-F
> >
> > I received a sample of brood foundation and it measures 5.2mm per ten cells.
> > Beyond that, you could hook up with another beekeeper that has their own
> > 4.9mm mill and make your own.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Barry
> >
> > --
> > Webmeister
> > www.BeeSource.com
> >
>
>


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Foundation ?
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 16:54:32 -0500
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> From: Abdulaziz (asiray0a) <asiray0a@my-deja.com>
> Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy.
> Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
> Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 18:09:15 GMT
> Subject: Re: Foundation ?
> 
> The reason behind the small size foundation is as follows.
<snip> 
> I would appreciate if you can help me with this.

What part of the world do you reside in?

There are plans on the Beesource web site called "Removeable Swarm Catching
Frame". This hinged frame, that opens like a book, is designed to allow easy
capture of feral comb that can then be placed into a conventional hive.
Designed by Dee Lusby, it's basically a split frame that is wired on both
sides to hold comb in place. Once filled, the frames are nailed together and
placed into a hive.

Do you have access to the comb they built in the hollow tree?

Regards,
Barry


-- 
Webmeister
www.BeeSource.com



Article 26240 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Essential oils and Varroa...?
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 11:50:19 +1200
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thanks donna
but we don't have walmart in NZ
i found what we were looking for here anyway
carman

donna helmick <helmick@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:27248-3982E1AF-3@storefull-215.iap.bryant.webtv.net...
> Try Walmart's pharmacy for essential oils.  Most pharmacies sell the
> little tiny bottles from their counters, but if you ask, Walmart will
> order larger amounts for you.
>
> I have never checked any other pharmacies and so I am not sure if they
> special order essential oils or not.
>
> These oils are very concentrated, so advise you add them to your syrup,
> etc. with care. I use an eyedropper.
>
> Your West Virginia neighbor,
> Donna
>




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From: "Peter Edwards" <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Arthritis - a correction
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 19:14:54 +0100
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I note from the Beekeepers Quarterly that there were reports in two
publications - the 'Journal of Rheumatology' and 'Monitor', not the BMJ
(although I thought that the report on the BBC 'You and Yours' programme
said the BMJ).

The BKQ picked it up from a medical column in the Sunday Times.  Regret that
there is no indication when they were published.

"Cara & Tom Patterson" <tomandcara@spam-free.home.com> wrote in message
news:tr93osg3c64aj578kbeiro8n6cqqbp715k@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:17:36 +0100, "Peter Edwards"
<edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
>
> >There was a report in the British Medical Journal recently that bee
stings,
> >far from alleviating arthritis as many of us thought, can actually cause
it.
> >
> >Apparently a study was based on a village in Spain where a large number
of
> >the population are beekeepers.  Interestingly, blood tests for arthritis
> >were negative (apparently this can happen with certain types of
arthritis).
> >
> Dear Peter,
>
> Do you know when this report was in the BMJ?  I would like to read it.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Tom




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From: Abdulaziz (asiray0a) <asiray0a@my-deja.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Foundation ?
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 05:49:01 GMT
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I am from Saudi Arabia. Yes I have access only to the two end combs only but
the inside combs I can not reach them unless I cut the end one. The comb is
circular. Abdulaziz

In article <B5A8BCC8.5C8B%barry@birkey.com>,
  Barry Birkey <barry@birkey.com> wrote:
> > From: Abdulaziz (asiray0a) <asiray0a@my-deja.com>
> > Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy.
> > Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
> > Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 18:09:15 GMT
> > Subject: Re: Foundation ?
> >
> > The reason behind the small size foundation is as follows.
> <snip>
> > I would appreciate if you can help me with this.
>
> What part of the world do you reside in?
>
> There are plans on the Beesource web site called "Removeable Swarm Catching
> Frame". This hinged frame, that opens like a book, is designed to allow easy
> capture of feral comb that can then be placed into a conventional hive.
> Designed by Dee Lusby, it's basically a split frame that is wired on both
> sides to hold comb in place. Once filled, the frames are nailed together and
> placed into a hive.
>
> Do you have access to the comb they built in the hollow tree?
>
> Regards,
> Barry
>
> --
> Webmeister
> www.BeeSource.com
>
>


Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 26243 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Christopher Dainton" <dainton@globalnet.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: Arthritis
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Suffering a little but probably due to injuries rather than bee stings
Considering the average age of people who take up beekeeping
Dare I say older than rather than younger
We might end up crediting most age related problems to the bees
Chris
Peter Edwards wrote in message <8lnmin$88o$1@newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk>...
>
>
>So do you suffer from arthritis (or suspect that you might)?
>
>




Article 26244 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Hobby Beekeeping in the UK ..?
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Thanks for that update James
also good to hear that you are getting new young recruits into the industry
and/or hobby.
I'm hoping the present crisis doensn't impact enthusiam too hard over
here....especially in the event that our hobbyists are an aging crew.

We often have healthy expos etc over here.
On one occassion i took along a frame of bees in a single frame glass
observatory, there were a lot of young people present, it was a women's
healthy lifestyle expo,  so the mohers brought along their families.
You should have seen the children .... and adults.... who were literelly
pulled into the stand by the bees.
Like the bees had a mesmerising effect and they stood staring at the bees
for considerable lengths of time.
I spoke to many of them about the inter-relationships between bees and our
environment and how important bees are to all aspects of agri/horticulture.
There were some pretty keen faces ... i told them to put bot hands on each
side of the glass screen to feel the hum, they thought it a real treat.
i doubt there will be long term impacts with the majority of them seeking to
learn the age old art of beekeeping but at least it may have given them some
added respect .. and maybe lees inclined to squish bees when they see them
flying about.
unfortunatel with the present crisis I wont be able to rtansport glass
observation hives round the expos etc.
we have a travel ban on and no indication that this will be lifted
carman

James Kilty <honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:W99EFHAk1gg5Ew8l@kilty.demon.co.uk...
> In article <8llufp$rgt$2@news6.svr.pol.co.uk>, Peter Edwards
> <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk> writes
> >Our local association membership has fallen from a peak of 112 to about
50 -
> >but does now show some signs of increasing slightly.
> >
> >"Carman" <calm@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
> >news:8lj7js$rg4$2@news.wave.co.nz...
> >in the UK,  the majority of
> >> hobbyist Beekeepers quit beekeeping because of the problems associated
> >with
> >> Varroa Mite.
> Ours in West Cornwall is somewhat static but because we have matched our
> "retirements" with our course students. About half have now done our
> basic course. So we would have been like Peter's group, though we are
> now about the same size as them. The students are all familiar with
> dealing with varroa. The same story has been told throughout Europe.
> Numbers and honey production fall and then rise again about 2 years on.
> Quality and productivity improve with better overall standards of
> management. But large concerns were hit too as people tried to use
> ineffective methods.
> --
> James Kilty




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>they spent all day
>hanging outside the hives grabbing honey bees as they returned, and they were
>seemingly defenseless, 

Hey Niki,
 I don't know if you have a lowe's Store near you, They have a Yellow Jacket
trap which come in a clear plaste bag and yellow cap. This stuff really works.
You don't even have to worry about Honeybee touch it because they don't like
it. Give it a try. 
                            Tim


Article 26246 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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FYI... I also use this method and it works great. It takes a week or two
for the mixture to "pickle" enough to attract the moths though.

-Steve

roy chapman wrote:
> 
> Hi Peter,
>     I use a 2 liter plastic soda bottle.  Cut 2 quarter sized holes opposite
> each other just before the taper for the bottle neck.  put 1 cup vinegar, 1 cup
> sugar, 1 banana peel from a banana and fill up to about 2 " from holes with
> water.  I then put a hole in cap and run a string through it and tie it up next
> to my hives about entrance high.  You can hang them off of a nail put in the
> side of hive body or off of tree or bush branches near the hives.  I have also
> caught wasps and flies in them.
>     Roy Chapman
> 
> Peter Edwards wrote:
> 
> > I read recently that wax moths could be trapped using banana skins, sugar,
> > water and vinegar - but the method and quantities were rather vague.
> >
> > I tried making up the mixture and put it in an old  honey bucket with a hole
> > cut in the side - but not a single moth has gone in.
> >
> > Does anyone have experience of using these traps and, if so, could we have
> > precise instructions please?

-- 
Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
ACE Kits, Support, Consulting             (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html


Article 26247 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Peter Edwards" <edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Wax moth traps
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I read recently that wax moths could be trapped using banana skins, sugar,
water and vinegar - but the method and quantities were rather vague.

I tried making up the mixture and put it in an old  honey bucket with a hole
cut in the side - but not a single moth has gone in.

Does anyone have experience of using these traps and, if so, could we have
precise instructions please?




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No I do not have arthritis, i do enjoy reading everyone's questions and
answers.

Pete wrote:

> > "Peter Edwards"wrote:
> > There was a report in the British Medical Journal recently that bee
> >stings, far from alleviating arthritis as many of us thought, can
> >actually cause it.
>
> > In the meantime could we take a quick poll of this newsgroup?  If
> >everyone
> > reading this replies with a 'yes' or 'no' we might get some idea
> >whether
> > this is a problem or not.  At least we would find out how many read
> >the newsgroup!
> >
> > So do you suffer from arthritis (or suspect that you might)?
> ****************************************************************
>
>   Howdy Peter --
>
>   After working with bees for 66 years, and being a veterinarian for
> 50 years, I do have some arthritis.  But it from injuries -- not from
> bee stings.
>
>             Pete
> So much to learn - So little time !
> **************************************************
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.



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Hi Peter,
    I use a 2 liter plastic soda bottle.  Cut 2 quarter sized holes opposite
each other just before the taper for the bottle neck.  put 1 cup vinegar, 1 cup
sugar, 1 banana peel from a banana and fill up to about 2 " from holes with
water.  I then put a hole in cap and run a string through it and tie it up next
to my hives about entrance high.  You can hang them off of a nail put in the
side of hive body or off of tree or bush branches near the hives.  I have also
caught wasps and flies in them.
    Roy Chapman

Peter Edwards wrote:

> I read recently that wax moths could be trapped using banana skins, sugar,
> water and vinegar - but the method and quantities were rather vague.
>
> I tried making up the mixture and put it in an old  honey bucket with a hole
> cut in the side - but not a single moth has gone in.
>
> Does anyone have experience of using these traps and, if so, could we have
> precise instructions please?



Article 26250 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Billy Y. Smart II" <Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com>
Subject: FYI - Honeybees in aviation
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Group,

Thought this would interest some in the group...

   Honeybees may show aircraft art of safe landings
   Times of India    07/31/00
   author: Rajesh Ahuja

   NEW DELHI: In a pathbreaking finding, which could, in a not-too-distant future, avert tragedies like the July 17 crash of
   an Alliance Air boeing 737-200 near Patna airport, scientists have found an ideal way of avoiding mishaps that occur
   while an aircraft is landing on a flat surface like a runway. Based on the technique used by honeybees to touch down
   smoothly on a flat surface while landing, Australian scientists have devised a method whereby a plane would
   automatically slow down as it lands, making their speed close to zero at touchdown.

   The technique honeybees use to touch down smoothly could be an ideal way to control pilotless planes as they land,
   according to a team led by Mandyam Srinivasan of the Australian National University in Canberra which monitored the
   flight paths of six bees as they made over 100 landings on a flat surface.

   They found that, as they descended, the bees' flying speed was proportional to their height -- and this gave them the clue
   to the simple trick they were using to land safely, New Scientist reports.

   According to scientists, as one travels along the ground, the closer an object is, the faster it seems to pass. It's the same for
   the bees: if they flew at a constant speed while descending, the ground would appear to hurtle by faster and faster.

   To ensure that the image of the ground always crosses their field of view at the same rate, the bees automatically slow
   down as they land, making their speed close to zero at touchdown.

   ''The beauty of the system is that the bee is an autopilot. To land, it needs no explicit knowledge of its flight speed or its
   height above ground,'' says Srinivasan. ''It's neat and economical,'' agrees Tom Collett, a neurobiologist at the University
   of Sussex, Brighton.

   To test their idea, the team equipped a computer-controlled gantry robot with a downward-pointing video camera. They
   showed that simply by keeping the velocity of the image of the ground constant they could bring the robot to a standstill at
   touchdown.

   A system like this would be ideal for landing micro air vehicles (MAVs), says team member Javaan Chahl. The US
   military, which helped fund the research, is developing surveillance MAVs with wingspans as small as a few centimetres.

   Soldiers could carry these tiny planes into battle, and send them out to perform tasks such as reconnoitring nearby
   buildings. The bees' landing technique requires very little computing power. Cameras already on board the plane could be
   used in conjunction with a tiny computer, says Chahl.

   Srinivasan's team is now building a larger pilotless aircraft with a bee-like visual system that it will use to guide itself in to
   land.

   -- Rajesh Ahuja
--
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */





Article 26251 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: deelusbybeekeeper@my-deja.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Foundation ?
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:08:28 GMT
Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy.
Lines: 73
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References: <3980E77E.EC6790F7@winco.net><8ls2t9$f6r$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <B5A7156A.5C61%barry@birkey.com> <e$d60ON#$GA.253@cpmsnbbsa07><8lv6k9$ln9$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <B5A8BCC8.5C8B%barry@birkey.com> <8m0fkd$ghs$1@nnrp1.deja.com>
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Hi. This is Dee Lusby. If you would like a few
sample sheets of smaller natural sized foundation
to make starter strips from for your swarms I
will need an address to send to. We use small
natural sized 4.9 foundation to alleviate
parasitic mite problems and their accompanying
secondary
diseases.


sincerely:
Dee
Lusby

                                       In article
<8m0fkd$ghs$1@nnrp1.deja.com>,
  Abdulaziz (asiray0a) <asiray0a@my-deja.com>
wrote:
> I am from Saudi Arabia. Yes I have access only
to the two end combs only but
> the inside combs I can not reach them unless I
cut the end one. The comb is
> circular. Abdulaziz
>
> In article <B5A8BCC8.5C8B%barry@birkey.com>,
>   Barry Birkey <barry@birkey.com> wrote:
> > > From: Abdulaziz (asiray0a) <asiray0a@my-
deja.com>
> > > Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy.
> > > Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
> > > Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 18:09:15 GMT
> > > Subject: Re: Foundation ?
> > >
> > > The reason behind the small size foundation
is as follows.
> > <snip>
> > > I would appreciate if you can help me with
this.
> >
> > What part of the world do you reside in?
> >
> > There are plans on the Beesource web site
called "Removeable Swarm Catching
> > Frame". This hinged frame, that opens like a
book, is designed to allow easy
> > capture of feral comb that can then be placed
into a conventional hive.
> > Designed by Dee Lusby, it's basically a split
frame that is wired on both
> > sides to hold comb in place. Once filled, the
frames are nailed together and
> > placed into a hive.
> >
> > Do you have access to the comb they built in
the hollow tree?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Barry
> >
> > --
> > Webmeister
> > www.BeeSource.com
> >
> >
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.
>



Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.


Article 26252 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Neville Brook" <contact@pageset.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Lavender Honey
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Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:26252

Does anyone put their hives amongst Lavender fields?  If so, do you get
Lavender honey, what is it like, is it concentrated enough to sell as
Lavender honey?
Cheers and thanks
Liz Brook (Auckland, NZ)




Article 26253 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Peter Amschel <amschelp@pe.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: FYI - Honeybees in aviation
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Cool man cool, God is Great!



In article <398582B8.E2EFF445@nospam.boeing.com>, 
Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com says...
> Group,
> 
> Thought this would interest some in the group...
> 
>    Honeybees may show aircraft art of safe landings
>    Times of India    07/31/00
>    author: Rajesh Ahuja
> 
>    NEW DELHI: In a pathbreaking finding, which could, in a not-too-distant future, avert tragedies like the July 17 crash of
>    an Alliance Air boeing 737-200 near Patna airport, scientists have found an ideal way of avoiding mishaps that occur
>    while an aircraft is landing on a flat surface like a runway. Based on the technique used by honeybees to touch down
>    smoothly on a flat surface while landing, Australian scientists have devised a method whereby a plane would
>    automatically slow down as it lands, making their speed close to zero at touchdown.
> 
>    The technique honeybees use to touch down smoothly could be an ideal way to control pilotless planes as they land,
>    according to a team led by Mandyam Srinivasan of the Australian National University in Canberra which monitored the
>    flight paths of six bees as they made over 100 landings on a flat surface.
> 
>    They found that, as they descended, the bees' flying speed was proportional to their height -- and this gave them the clue
>    to the simple trick they were using to land safely, New Scientist reports.
> 
>    According to scientists, as one travels along the ground, the closer an object is, the faster it seems to pass. It's the same for
>    the bees: if they flew at a constant speed while descending, the ground would appear to hurtle by faster and faster.
> 
>    To ensure that the image of the ground always crosses their field of view at the same rate, the bees automatically slow
>    down as they land, making their speed close to zero at touchdown.
> 
>    ''The beauty of the system is that the bee is an autopilot. To land, it needs no explicit knowledge of its flight speed or its
>    height above ground,'' says Srinivasan. ''It's neat and economical,'' agrees Tom Collett, a neurobiologist at the University
>    of Sussex, Brighton.
> 
>    To test their idea, the team equipped a computer-controlled gantry robot with a downward-pointing video camera. They
>    showed that simply by keeping the velocity of the image of the ground constant they could bring the robot to a standstill at
>    touchdown.
> 
>    A system like this would be ideal for landing micro air vehicles (MAVs), says team member Javaan Chahl. The US
>    military, which helped fund the research, is developing surveillance MAVs with wingspans as small as a few centimetres.
> 
>    Soldiers could carry these tiny planes into battle, and send them out to perform tasks such as reconnoitring nearby
>    buildings. The bees' landing technique requires very little computing power. Cameras already on board the plane could be
>    used in conjunction with a tiny computer, says Chahl.
> 
>    Srinivasan's team is now building a larger pilotless aircraft with a bee-like visual system that it will use to guide itself in to
>    land.
> 
>    -- Rajesh Ahuja
> --
> Billy Y. Smart II
> /* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
> /*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */