Article 25286 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-west.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: joeblow Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stupid Question from Beginner > Are My Bees Dead Message-ID: References: <8efrls$pc0$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: joeblow X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.20 Lines: 37 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 06:07:15 EDT Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 06:11:09 -0400 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25286 In article <8efrls$pc0$1@nnrp1.deja.com>, rec01rec@my-deja.com says... > Hi there, > > I am a beginner in NH and recently installed some > package bees in this rotten weather (didn't get > above 40 and was rainy for the past 14 days here > in New England) I ahve a probabaly pretty basic > question but I couldn't find any answers in the > books I have or on the web... > > Stupid question - here it is > > I installed the bees about a week ago, noticed > they weren't taking the sugar at all (it was > cold). In any case I am not sure they are > alive... checked them today (nice and warm > finally - got up to 68 today...first day above 45 > in 2 weeks) and they all basically look kind of > frozen, or to me, dead? The ABC of Bee Culture > says they sometimes look this way in the cold, > but it was pretty warm today. Are they dead? > Starved? What do you think? > > Thanks > > Ron E. > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Before you buy. > Hi, I don't want to alarm you but I had this experience too. If it reaches 65 to 70 degrees bees should look like live bees. If they look slow and listless kind of shivering, I would suspect some kind of poisening. The chemical Sevin that some folks use will make your bees look frozen. Buzz Article 25287 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!join.news.pipex.net!pipex!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!ams.uu.net!ffx.uu.net!xyzzy!nntp From: "Billy Y. Smart II" Subject: Re: Black Perco Frame Experience X-Nntp-Posting-Host: rs496769.ks.boeing.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Message-ID: <39365CB8.33038625@nospam.boeing.com> Sender: nntp@news.boeing.com (Boeing NNTP News Access) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Organization: Tooling Numeric Control Programming - Wichita Division X-Accept-Language: en References: <3933E67B.FAF1BD42@nospam.boeing.com> <8h5g55$6ha$1@news.smartworld.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 12:53:13 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.61 [en] (X11; U; AIX 4.3) Lines: 18 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25287 Allen Dick wrote: > Is it waxed or unwaxed? The waxed is accepted well in my experience, the > unwaxed is not. > > They are waxed. Hopefully I will get another swarm in the 2nd trap that has the other 5 frames. I will see then if it happens a 2nd time. -- Billy Y. Smart II /* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the */ /* Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental. */ /* Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply */ Article 25288 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.direct.ca!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "David Eyre" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Changing sizes of frames on the bees during a move Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 09:20:58 -0400 Organization: The Bee Works Lines: 31 Message-ID: References: <20000601043807.29381.00001093@ng-fd1.aol.com> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25288 The best way would be to place the old nuc brood box below, make sure the queen is in the new top box, then add a queen excluder between the two. When all the brood has emerged from below, remove the box. LKLarson1 wrote in message news:20000601043807.29381.00001093@ng-fd1.aol.com... > I have a new nuc of bees and don't have a large standard size brood chamber, > and frankly, don't want another. Is there any method of getting the bees to > move into a Western super (much smaller than the large size) and still not > sacrificing the large numbers of brood on those frames in the nuc? > > Right now, I've had the nuc sitting on top of a Western, and then put a cut > (partial) cover over the rest of the Western thinking that the bees would then > move down for more activity (including the queen coming down and over to > lay)--after three weeks, not much success. > > Now I'm thinking of simply moving the frames to another hive, and dusting off > the bees onto an old, drawn Western and then feeding them for a few weeks. > > What do you think? > > Thanks. > > Article 25289 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!uunet!ffx.uu.net!xyzzy!nntp From: "Billy Y. Smart II" Subject: Re: Honeybees & Cotton X-Nntp-Posting-Host: rs496769.ks.boeing.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Message-ID: <39367667.931511AF@nospam.boeing.com> Sender: nntp@news.boeing.com (Boeing NNTP News Access) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Organization: Tooling Numeric Control Programming - Wichita Division X-Accept-Language: en References: <3933FEEB.8A6AC10C@nospam.boeing.com> <393557F3.79D5C253@tucson.ars.ag.gov> Mime-Version: 1.0 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 14:42:47 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.61 [en] (X11; U; AIX 4.3) Lines: 29 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25289 John Edwards wrote: > This has been the subject of research for the last half-century or more. I > refer you to the following clips from S.E. McGregor's book "Insect > Pollination of Cultivated Crop Plants", which we maintain and update on our > website at http://198.22.133.109/book/index.html > Cotton can be found (and read) in Chapter 10. > - Hope this helps ...... and which is stranger - cotton in Kansas, or corn > in Phoenix ? > > I found this document over in Dave Green's pollination web site too (thanks, btw). It appears to have been written back in the 1960's. I was hoping for more recent information. If you consider the demise of feral colonies as of late, it makes me wonder if the addition of bees to a cotton field would make a more significant difference now than it did back then. Especially if you consider that Kansas, not being a traditional cotton state, could possibly lack the natural pollinators it takes to adequately handle the larger fields of cotton we have this year. -- Billy Y. Smart II /* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the */ /* Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental. */ /* Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply */ Article 25290 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!newsfeed.icl.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!feeder.via.net!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "Teri Bachus" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Bees turn up the heat on invaders Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 10:45:03 -0400 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 18 Message-ID: X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25290 From New Scientist magazine, 03 June 20 online at: http://www.newscientist.com:80/news/news_224134.html A beehive runs a fever when it gets sick, just like people, says Philip Starks and his colleagues at Cornell University in Ithaca, New York. Like other social insects, bees keep their nests warm to speed up the growth of their larvae. But Starks found that if the fungus Ascosphaera apis is added, bees increase the temperature of their nests by a further 0·56 ºC. At the higher temperature the fungus cannot infect and kill larvae (Naturwissenschaften, vol 87, p 229). The fever-like behaviour of the colony is strikingly similar to that of an individual animal and may be widespread among social insects, says Thomas Seeley, who supervised the study. Article 25291 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!cyclone.swbell.net!cyclone-sf.pbi.net!206.13.28.125!cyclone-transit.snfc21.pbi.net!216.218.192.242!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "Teri Bachus" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: more gm/bees news Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 09:20:30 -0400 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 39 Message-ID: References: X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25291 still more for info/discussion purposes from: http://www.smh.com.au:80/news/0005/29/text/world13.html Great jumping genes: study jolts assurances on GM crops Date: 29/05/2000 London: Research by a leading German zoologist has shown that genes used to genetically modify crops can jump the species barrier, newspapers reported yesterday. A three-year study by Professor Hans-Heinrich Kaatz at the University of Jena found that the gene used to modify oil-seed rape had transferred to bacteria living inside honey bees. The findings will undermine claims by the biotech industry and supporters of genetically modified foods that genes cannot spread. They will also increase pressure on farmers across Europe to destroy fields of oil-seed rape contaminated with GM seeds. In an interview for Britain's The Observer, Professor Kaatz said: "I have found the herbicide-resistant genes in the rape seed transferred across to the bacteria and yeast inside the intestines of young bees. This happened rarely, but it did happen." Asked if his findings had implications for the bacteria inside the human gut, he replied: "Maybe, but I am not an expert on this." The Observer said Professor Kaatz was reluctant to talk about his work until it was officially published and reviewed by fellow scientists. The reports come a day after Britain's Agriculture Minister, Mr Nick Brown, urged farmers to destroy crops contaminated with GM seeds. Up to 600 farmers in Britain are believed to have inadvertently planted more than 12,000 hectares of oil-seed rape believed to be contaminated with GM rape seeds, supplied by the Anglo-Dutch seed company Advanta. Similar crops have been planted elsewhere in Europe. The French and Swedish governments have already announced they are ordering the uprooting of the crops. Agence France-Presse Article 25292 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!hardy.tc.umn.edu!news.nero.net!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: time of day to x-fer nuc to hive? Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 12:02:55 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 6 Message-ID: <3936B35F.4C793158@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: faraday.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 959886600 32632 129.101.81.112 (1 Jun 2000 19:10:00 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 1 Jun 2000 19:10:00 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25292 Subject says it all- do i do this in the evening before sunset or in the mornign or does it not matter? Anything i gotta know besides open up the new hive, remove a few frames and dump the bees (no smoke). Thanks Matthew Article 25293 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-feed.fnsi.net!newsxfer.visi.net!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!easynet-tele!easynet.net!server5.netnews.ja.net!liv!not-for-mail From: Duncan Robertson Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Merseyside? Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 15:16:42 +0100 Organization: University of Liverpool Lines: 49 Message-ID: <3936704A.2BEB1FCC@liv.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: pc033084.vets.liv.ac.uk Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------B1DA604BBBF24F4BA340D6DF" X-Trace: news.liv.ac.uk 959868938 1648 138.253.33.84 (1 Jun 2000 14:15:38 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@liverpool.ac.uk NNTP-Posting-Date: 1 Jun 2000 14:15:38 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25293 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------B1DA604BBBF24F4BA340D6DF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Everyone, In conjunction with someone else, I am thinking of starting a hive in Liverpool. Niether of us has ever done this before and we badly need advice. Can any of you put us in touch with/provide contact details for any Merseyside beekeeping associations. Whilst we are in the process of an intense reading program, we both need to talk to experienced bee keepers and if possible see a hive. Do you think we are too late in the year to start doing this? All information gratefully received (direct e-mail preferred) -- Duncan H.L. Robertson Senior Experimental Officer, Dept. Veterinary Preclinical Sciences, University of Liverpool, Liverpool, England. Phone: (UK) 0151 794 4231/5344 Fax: (UK) 0151 794 4243 e-mail: dhlr@liverpool.ac.uk --------------B1DA604BBBF24F4BA340D6DF Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="dhlr.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Duncan Robertson Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="dhlr.vcf" begin:vcard n:Robertson;Duncan x-mozilla-html:FALSE adr:;;;;;; version:2.1 note:Senior Experimental Officer end:vcard --------------B1DA604BBBF24F4BA340D6DF-- Article 25294 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu!hermes.visi.com!news-out.visi.com!feeder.qis.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honeybees & Cotton Lines: 12 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 01 Jun 2000 19:51:43 GMT References: <20000530145102.19250.00000995@nso-fm.aol.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000601155143.11546.00002530@ng-ch1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25294 Bob wrote: PESTICIDES will likely destroy your hives. I found that by contacting a local corn farmer in my area who was using larvin 3.2 about putting bees on his land, I made him aware of the presence of the hives nearby that weren't on his land. He subsequently changed his spraying time to dusk to avoid hurting any of my bees. When you're keeping bees in close proximity to people who use potentially harmful pesticides, its better to let them know you're there. However, I don't know if the pesticides used on corn lend themselves to any change in how they are used that would minimize their effects on honeybees. As Bob's post indicates, I've heard that bees and cotton just don't mix. Article 25295 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: time of day to x-fer nuc to hive? Lines: 18 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 01 Jun 2000 21:56:10 GMT References: <3936B35F.4C793158@uidaho.edu> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000601175610.11045.00000180@ng-fu1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25295 If you are transferring combs from a nuc to a hive body that is to remain in the original spot then anytime convenient will do. If you are placing the nuc frames in a hive body and relocating everything then do it in the evening when the foragers have returned . >Anything i gotta know besides open up the >new hive, remove a few frames and dump the bees The part above confuses me and sounds more like installing package bees. Do that towards evening. Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 25296 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!12.127.17.134!attbtf!att542!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Black Perco Frame Experience Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 14:58:31 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 21 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust58.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8h6i94$lfu$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <3933E67B.FAF1BD42@nospam.boeing.com> <8h5g55$6ha$1@news.smartworld.net> <39365CB8.33038625@nospam.boeing.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust58.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25296 > > Is it waxed or unwaxed? The waxed is accepted well in my experience, the > > unwaxed is not. > > They are waxed. Hopefully I will get another swarm in the 2nd trap that has > the other 5 frames. I will see then if it happens a 2nd time. Some hives will just not do a good job on some foundation. That's just the way it is. I have drawn lots of Pierco, and find it is about the same as other foundation in terms of success. There are even pictures of it in my diary somewhere in April. -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Over 1700 served... Article 25297 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.Arizona.EDU!not-for-mail From: John Edwards Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honeybees & Cotton Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 14:56:28 -0700 Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Lines: 44 Message-ID: <3936DC0B.755A4F34@tucson.ars.ag.gov> References: <3933FEEB.8A6AC10C@nospam.boeing.com> <393557F3.79D5C253@tucson.ars.ag.gov> <39367667.931511AF@nospam.boeing.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: feral-bee.tucson.ars.ag.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en,pdf Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25297 "Billy Y. Smart II" wrote: > > makes me wonder if the addition of bees to a cotton field would make a more > significant difference now than it did back then. Especially if you consider > that Kansas, not being a traditional cotton state, could possibly lack the > natural pollinators it takes to adequately handle the larger fields of cotton > we have this year. Well, cotton, being naturally self-pollinating, could usually care less about the presence of bees, so it is hard to sell this idea to the growers. That's the subject of much of the old and newer research - whether there is any advantage at all to the cotton grower to have bees in his area, balanced against the usual need to spray cotton for various insects, sometimes frequently. I grew up on a cotton farm (in Buckeye) west of Phoenix, Arizona in the 1940s-1961, and well remember the tension and care my father and the beekeeper across the street had to put into their relationship to remain on speaking terms. By the way - giving credit where it is due - Mr. McGregor's book on "Insect Pollination of Cultivated Crop Plants" is actually USDA Agricultural Handbook No. 496 (1976), and was mostly put together by him in the Tucson Bee Lab after he retired as Chief of the Apicultural Research Branch of the USDA's Agricultural Research Service. He spent many years in Arkansas and Arizona working with cotton and bee problems, which is the probable reason the cotton chapter in his book is 14 large pages with 6 pages of references. It is not a simple problem, but cotton can be the source of a long-lasting honeyflow in areas where it is not sprayed so frequently. --see the entire book at http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/book/index.html ----------------------------------------------------------- John F. Edwards Carl Hayden Bee Research Center Agricultural Research Service - USDA 2000 E. Allen Road Tucson, Arizona 85719 32.27495 N 110.9402 W http://198.22.133.109/ http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/home/edwards/edwards.html Article 25298 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!xmission!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.nero.net!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: why the inner cover? Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 12:13:50 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 5 Message-ID: <3935646E.3D08CA1E@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 959800875 1299 129.101.81.41 (31 May 2000 19:21:15 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 31 May 2000 19:21:15 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25298 I have always used an inner cover. Why would you not use them. Should i use them or not with my new hives? Thanks once again. Matthew Article 25299 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!newshub2.rdc1.sfba.home.com!newshub1.home.com!news.home.com!news1.rdc2.tx.home.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Cara & Tom Patterson < tomandcara@home.com> Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Buckfast Supercedure/ Swarming Message-ID: <6iqajsggav72dk0rl54mlafpn37ht23huk@4ax.com> References: <8h2ufj$iv4$1@einstein.greenhills.net> X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.7/32.534 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 15 Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 19:41:16 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.8.20.181 X-Complaints-To: abuse@home.net X-Trace: news1.rdc2.tx.home.com 959802076 24.8.20.181 (Wed, 31 May 2000 12:41:16 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 12:41:16 PDT Organization: @Home Network Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25299 No significant mite problem, no crowding after the swarms left. I am going to requeen and try new world carniolan. On Wed, 31 May 2000 06:50:43 -0500, "d" wrote: >Hello, >I believe you have a unusual queen, I use buckfast queens, and have some >supercede the second year. Wish I had some of those 10 year old gene pool. >I have never had a problem with swarming in the first two years, although >they get very crowed. I would try another queen , whether buckfast or not. >Do you have a heavy mite problem. I just wondering if they are under stress >, from something. >preacher > Article 25300 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!newsxfer.visi.net!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed1.earthlink.net!newsmaster1.prod.itd.earthlink.net!newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: John Caldeira Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: time of day to x-fer nuc to hive? Message-ID: References: <3936B35F.4C793158@uidaho.edu> X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 14 Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 01:01:09 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 4.33.104.60 X-Complaints-To: abuse@earthlink.net X-Trace: newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net 959907669 4.33.104.60 (Thu, 01 Jun 2000 18:01:09 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 18:01:09 PDT Organization: EarthLink Inc. -- http://www.EarthLink.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25300 Matthew Pollard wrote: >Subject says it all- do i do this in the evening before sunset or in the >mornign or does it not matter? I agree with Tom's (BeeCrofter's) advice about evening being a preference, especially if other colonies are nearby. Opening up weaker colonies later in the day can reduce the likelihood of robbing problems too. -John John Caldeira Dallas, Texas http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/ Article 25301 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmasters3!bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <3935646E.3D08CA1E@uidaho.edu> Subject: Re: why the inner cover? Lines: 23 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 01:43:54 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.41.13 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 959823834 12.72.41.13 (Thu, 01 Jun 2000 01:43:54 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 01:43:54 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25301 Inner covers are only needed if you use a telescopic cover so the answer to your question depends on what type of cover your new hives have. Personally, I think they make a good argument for using a migratory cover. They are quite expensive and the masonite ones are worthless once the moisture in a normal hive causes them to sag. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there "Matthew Pollard" wrote in message news:3935646E.3D08CA1E@uidaho.edu... > I have always used an inner cover. Why would you not use them. Should i > use them or not with my new hives? > Thanks once again. > Matthew > Article 25302 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!attbtf!att542!att541!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Black Perco Frame Experience Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 22:30:55 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 21 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust247.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8h5g55$6ha$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <3933E67B.FAF1BD42@nospam.boeing.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust247.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25302 > I purchased 10 black Perco frames from Brushy Mountain to try out... the black > Percos aren't being drawn well. Most of the new comb is hanging down from the > top bar instead of being drawn out normal to the foundation.. Is it waxed or unwaxed? The waxed is accepted well in my experience, the unwaxed is not. FWIW, pictures of hives started on Pierco compared to Permadent are in my Diary. allen -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Over 1990 served... Article 25303 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: How threatened is our environment? Lines: 23 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 01 Jun 2000 08:33:15 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25303 As a hobbyist who gives presentations to school children, I am often asked how real is the danger to the environment (not enough honeybees left to pollinize flowers/crops, etc.)? How serious is this decline of honeybees? From reading the various magazines and books, I get a large range of views from "threatening", to extremely serious ("crisis"), to "endangered" (meaning things are ok but we could use help). I am further asked if there are any wild (feral) bees left? What I have read and been told is that all such honeybees have been wiped out, except for the few that are "out there" having swarmed from beekeepers and they won't last but a year or two without treatment. Is this correct from your observation/experience? One last question--it is my understanding that varola mites only infect honeybees--not wasps, hornets, mason bees, bumblebees, or yellowjackets. What about so-termed "killer bees"? I appreciate all the nice replies I've had to previous questions--you are sure a nice bunch of people out there..... Thanks for or swlerola miteslesshjnecametbim ilenate ize seflowers, etc. not pollenizahd Article 25304 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Changing sizes of frames on the bees during a move Lines: 18 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 01 Jun 2000 08:38:07 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000601043807.29381.00001093@ng-fd1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25304 I have a new nuc of bees and don't have a large standard size brood chamber, and frankly, don't want another. Is there any method of getting the bees to move into a Western super (much smaller than the large size) and still not sacrificing the large numbers of brood on those frames in the nuc? Right now, I've had the nuc sitting on top of a Western, and then put a cut (partial) cover over the rest of the Western thinking that the bees would then move down for more activity (including the queen coming down and over to lay)--after three weeks, not much success. Now I'm thinking of simply moving the frames to another hive, and dusting off the bees onto an old, drawn Western and then feeding them for a few weeks. What do you think? Thanks. Article 25305 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Uniting Colonies ?? Lines: 4 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 01 Jun 2000 08:42:29 GMT References: <392C9E7F.7F23FABC@cornell.edu> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000601044229.29381.00001094@ng-fd1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25305 I've always been told that, when reuniting colonies, the queen on the top will come out the winner..... Article 25306 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-west.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: joeblow Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How Much How Fast (Hive Development) Message-ID: References: <8h177e$qmo$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: joeblow X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.20 Lines: 46 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 05:48:24 EDT Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 05:52:17 -0400 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25306 In article <8h177e$qmo$1@nnrp1.deja.com>, rec01rec@my-deja.com says... > Doing my first hive and curious how much they should have done > > I am in New England and it is 25 days since the install... > > In the hive about half the frames have some type of comb, 3 have pretty > substantial comb built and about three sides of those have brood and > pollen in them. Bees are flying most days and appear pretty active. > > Questions: > 1.Anyway here is my question...does that sound about right for 25 days > into this? > 2. Related to the above, I have been unable to see the queen although I > see brood. The hive looked about the same today as it did a week and 2 > days ago. > > > Thanks, > > Ron Ellis > > FYI :amount of brood in there looks about the same as when I looked a > week and 2 days ago, and I was unable to see any eggs on any of the > frames (although they were pretty crowded with bees and I did not > disturb them). I did see a bee born/crawl out of the brood though which > was neat... > > > > > > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Before you buy. > Ron, You will notice that as the weather warms up the bees will build better comb and will build it faster. In cool weather they don't produce as much wax and this will slow down thier comb building. It has been 60 to 65 degrees up there by you lately maybe some days getting to 70 that is warm enough for them to get the hive started but wait till you hit 80 or so, the comb building will take off. Keep a log of what you do every time you go to the hive. I keep mine in a word document with the icon on my desk top. I'll bet you are having a ball... Buzz Article 25307 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!saltmine.radix.net!not-for-mail From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Grooming assay? Anyone have a methodology? Date: 2 Jun 2000 11:20:53 -0400 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 25 Message-ID: <8h8jcl$osa$1@saltmine.radix.net> Reply-To: adamf@radix.net NNTP-Posting-Host: saltmine.radix.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25307 Hello Folks. Does anyone have or know of (i.e. have a citation for) a field assay to determine if hives groom for varroa mites? In testing hives for mite grooming in 1995, I found all hives groom for mites somewhat. What is the difference between normal grooming and grooming that depletes the mite population, thus making grooming a phenotypic characteristic that could possibly be selected for? Anyone have any thoughts? Adam (note: this was also mailed to bee-l). -- Adam Finkelstein adamf@radix.net http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf -- Adam Finkelstein adamf@radix.net http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 25308 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: Pete Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honeybees & Cotton Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 15:21:56 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 39 Message-ID: <8h8je1$pf4$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <3933FEEB.8A6AC10C@nospam.boeing.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.152.32.138 X-Article-Creation-Date: Fri Jun 02 15:21:56 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.7 [en]C-CCK-MCD snapN45b1 (Win95; U) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x62.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 216.152.32.138 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDhrogers000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25308 "Billy Y. Smart II" wrote: >Is there a benefit to the farmer to >have honeybees foraging on his cotton? Would this increase cotton >yields? > > Billy Y. Smart II ******************************************************** Howdy Billy -- I'm glad John referred you to the McGregor pollination book. I hope you can get access to it, even though it is out of print. Briefly, he concludes that cotton is mostly self pollinating, bees do increase the yield. Farmers are generally cooperative in handling whatever spraying is necessary if you inform them. In 1940 I placed 8 colonies in the Red River vallely near Texarkana. They were split into 15 colonies the next spring and I extracted 1,500 pounds of honey from them in the fall. No trouble, but this was before the advent of DDT. The cotton honey was very light in color and very mild in taste, but sold well. Good luck. Pete So much to learn - So little time ! ************************************************** Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25309 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!chnws02.mediaone.net!chnws05.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.8.70!typhoon.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <3937E173.BB8A739C@riverace.com> From: Steve Huston Organization: Riverace Corporation X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Interpreting a sticky board test Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 28 Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 16:31:47 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.91.48.64 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: typhoon.ne.mediaone.net 959963507 24.91.48.64 (Fri, 02 Jun 2000 12:31:47 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 12:31:47 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25309 Hi, I did a 48-hour test with Phero-Tech sticky board varroa trap in one of my hives (2 deeps, relatively full of bees). I counted about 130 mites. I did the same test in March and counted 3, so did not put in Apistan. This is in Massachusetts, US. Questions: 1. Am I in real trouble here? 2. I have 3 other hives in this yard (one is a recent split and has Apistan in it) - are they likely to be in trouble too? I ordered more sticky boards to test with, but they're not here yet. 3. Has anyone tried formic acid gel - what results did you have? Thanks, -Steve -- Steve Huston Riverace Corporation Email: shuston@riverace.com http://www.riverace.com ACE Kits, Support, Consulting (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185 Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html Article 25310 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmasters3!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8KRZ4.1878$ip.95254@dfiatx1-snr1.gtei.net> Subject: Re: How long before new queen does her thing Lines: 41 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 18:33:07 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.203.20 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 959970787 12.72.203.20 (Fri, 02 Jun 2000 18:33:07 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 18:33:07 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25310 Yes, it is too early. Based on the dates you provide, figure she was about 2 days old when you saw her on the 25th so she should be going on her mating flights about now. Was this a package or nuc started late this year? I wonder why you are feeding this late. This could have contributed to their swarming as it will stimulate the queen to lay prodigiously. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there "Chris Bjelica" wrote in message news:8KRZ4.1878$ip.95254@dfiatx1-snr1.gtei.net... > My one and only hive swarmed on me on May 15th and the swarm escaped never > to be seen again. 2 days later, I opened up the hive and found some queen > cells. About one week after that (May 25th), I checked on them again and > found a new queen. Today, another week after spotting the new queen, I see > she is still there but see no signs of egg laying. One thing I have noticed > is that the colony is going through much more sugar water than they had > before (a quart per day as opposed to a quart every 3 or 4 days). > > I live in N.E. Ohio and it's been hot and humid lately. In the 80's. > > Is it too early for me to expect her to have mated and started laying eggs? > > Thanks, > Chris B. > cbjelica@gte.net > > > Article 25311 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!newsfeed.mathworks.com!nycmny1-snh1.gtei.net!washdc3-snh1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!dfiatx1-snr1.gtei.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Chris Bjelica" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: How long before new queen does her thing Lines: 18 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3115.0 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: <8KRZ4.1878$ip.95254@dfiatx1-snr1.gtei.net> X-Trace: /wLwTfqlE49Ve7smRwU7X0i+HYfqIYYxHsS5cfydfNEsbcvziQw4qXniZJMpAvRnt/W9ZtbUB2Gd!DsCCoqHaZMvGsFB2i+ngBEqzycVqBuUzdyvy1ccxtngqzwY8iaflzpe8r/OIHnf0jqYQmXnB1f8C!8MBUCQ== X-Complaints-To: abuse@gte.net X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 16:59:48 GMT Distribution: world Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 16:59:48 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25311 My one and only hive swarmed on me on May 15th and the swarm escaped never to be seen again. 2 days later, I opened up the hive and found some queen cells. About one week after that (May 25th), I checked on them again and found a new queen. Today, another week after spotting the new queen, I see she is still there but see no signs of egg laying. One thing I have noticed is that the colony is going through much more sugar water than they had before (a quart per day as opposed to a quart every 3 or 4 days). I live in N.E. Ohio and it's been hot and humid lately. In the 80's. Is it too early for me to expect her to have mated and started laying eggs? Thanks, Chris B. cbjelica@gte.net Article 25312 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!feed2.news.luth.se!luth.se!newsfeed.direct.ca!wn4feed!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!12.127.17.134!attbtf!att541!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Bees and Fungicides Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 14:22:58 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 31 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust148.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8h94gd$d9u$1@news.smartworld.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust148.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25312 We're told that growers will be wanting to spray one or several of the following on canola crops that are in almost full bloom where we will have bees. I have the blue book pages but see *nothing* mentioned about bees. I have heard bad things about fungicides and bees. Has anyone here any experience with the following chemicals? Benlate Bravo 500 Ronilan EG Rovral Tatoo C I am told that the first four are pretty well harmless to bees. If so, which fungicides have I heard all the bad things about? Thanks in advance. allen -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Over 2100 served Article 25313 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newspush.london1.eu.level3.net!level3eu!newspeer.highwayone.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Uniting Colonies ?? Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 23:52:36 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 11 Message-ID: <8h9fcq$rk5$2@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <392C9E7F.7F23FABC@cornell.edu> <20000601044229.29381.00001094@ng-fd1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-227.potassium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news6.svr.pol.co.uk 959987930 28293 62.136.18.227 (2 Jun 2000 23:18:50 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 2 Jun 2000 23:18:50 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25313 ...and you believed it? "LKLarson1" wrote in message news:20000601044229.29381.00001094@ng-fd1.aol.com... > I've always been told that, when reuniting colonies, the queen on the top will > come out the winner..... > > Article 25314 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!194.176.220.129!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stupid Question from Beginner > Are My Bees Dead Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 23:52:04 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 49 Message-ID: <8h9fcp$rk5$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <8efrls$pc0$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-227.potassium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news6.svr.pol.co.uk 959987929 28293 62.136.18.227 (2 Jun 2000 23:18:49 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 2 Jun 2000 23:18:49 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25314 They are dead I am afraid. You do not say how you were feeding them, but if it was very cold then you would need to get the feed right to the cluster using something like a contact feeder. "joeblow" wrote in message news:MPG.13a000c670f6bd3f989682@news1.usenetserver.com... > In article <8efrls$pc0$1@nnrp1.deja.com>, rec01rec@my-deja.com says... > > Hi there, > > > > I am a beginner in NH and recently installed some > > package bees in this rotten weather (didn't get > > above 40 and was rainy for the past 14 days here > > in New England) I ahve a probabaly pretty basic > > question but I couldn't find any answers in the > > books I have or on the web... > > > > Stupid question - here it is > > > > I installed the bees about a week ago, noticed > > they weren't taking the sugar at all (it was > > cold). In any case I am not sure they are > > alive... checked them today (nice and warm > > finally - got up to 68 today...first day above 45 > > in 2 weeks) and they all basically look kind of > > frozen, or to me, dead? The ABC of Bee Culture > > says they sometimes look this way in the cold, > > but it was pretty warm today. Are they dead? > > Starved? What do you think? > > > > Thanks > > > > Ron E. > > > > > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > > Before you buy. > > > Hi, > I don't want to alarm you but I had this experience too. If it reaches 65 > to 70 degrees bees should look like live bees. If they look slow and > listless kind of shivering, I would suspect some kind of poisening. The > chemical Sevin that some folks use will make your bees look frozen. Buzz > > Article 25315 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!news.csl-gmbh.net!newsfeed01.sul.t-online.de!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 00:13:30 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 59 Message-ID: <8h9fcr$rk5$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-227.potassium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news6.svr.pol.co.uk 959987931 28293 62.136.18.227 (2 Jun 2000 23:18:51 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 2 Jun 2000 23:18:51 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25315 Local view from UK Midlands: Plenty of bees, but only because there are beekeepers treating them; without treatment there would probably be none. Define feral! If we take it as 'wild' colonies that have not originated as a swarm from a beekeepers hive (not sure how you would prove that!) then I think it unlikely that any have survived - all those that I knew have died. However, the sites will be re-inhabited with swarms from treated hives, so it is likely that we will have a constant turnover of 'feral' colonies as they die out and the sites are re-inhabited. The important point is that without beekeepers there would certainly be very few bees and it is worrying that the numbers of beekeepers has declined dramatically since the onset of varroa; we are down to a core of experienced beekeepers who, by working hard, are coping with varroa. My understanding is that 'killer bees' have a shorter brood cycle and are therefore coping with varroa better - although, fortunately, I have no experience of them! "LKLarson1" wrote in message news:20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com... > As a hobbyist who gives presentations to school children, I am often asked how > real is the danger to the environment (not enough honeybees left to pollinize > flowers/crops, etc.)? How serious is this decline of honeybees? From reading > the various magazines and books, I get a large range of views from > "threatening", to extremely serious ("crisis"), to "endangered" (meaning things > are ok but we could use help). > > I am further asked if there are any wild (feral) bees left? What I have read > and been told is that all such honeybees have been wiped out, except for the > few that are "out there" having swarmed from beekeepers and they won't last but > a year or two without treatment. Is this correct from your > observation/experience? > > One last question--it is my understanding that varola mites only infect > honeybees--not wasps, hornets, mason bees, bumblebees, or yellowjackets. What > about so-termed "killer bees"? > > I appreciate all the nice replies I've had to previous questions--you are sure > a nice bunch of people out there..... > > > Thanks for or swlerola miteslesshjnecametbim ilenate ize seflowers, etc. not > pollenizahd Article 25316 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: General New Queen Questions Lines: 10 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 02 Jun 2000 23:42:26 GMT References: <39382213.EE00A587@uidaho.edu> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000602194226.08096.00001193@ng-fc1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25316 Everything goes better with feed try 1-1 sugar syrup. Provide more details for better answers Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 25317 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Javier Soto" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: @groWeb - Actualización Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 01:30:45 +0200 Lines: 30 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.2106.4 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.2106.4 NNTP-Posting-Host: 195.5.76.176 Message-ID: <39384449_4@news.arrakis.es> X-Trace: 3 Jun 2000 01:33:29 +0100, 195.5.76.176 Organization: Arrakis Servicios y Comunicaciones SLU Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!newsfeed.nyc.globix.net!netnews.com!newspeer1.nac.net!newsfeed.eurocyber.net!naxos.belnet.be!news.belnet.be!news.rediris.es!newsfeed.mad.ttd.net!caladan.arrakis.es!195.5.76.176 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25317 Estimado/a @migo/a: @groWeb, la página Hispana de Agricultura y Ganadería, ha sido actualizada el 3 de Junio del 2000. Hemos superado nuevamente las 4.000 visitas (4.097) situándonos en 35.510 desde el comienzo del espacio. http://www.agroweb-hispana.com Como gran novedad de esta actualización presentamos la posibilidad de estar inscrito en @groForo, el foro hispano de Agricultura y Ganadería, donde podrás estar en contacto, vía correo electrónico, con numerosas personas dedicadas a la agronomía y, por supuesto, en castellano. Esperamos, de nuevo, tu colaboración en esta nueva sección. Hemos actualizado nuestras secciones ya clásicas de: @groEscuela, con nuevos documentos sobre maquinaria de aplicación y plagas del algodón. Empezando una nueva serie sobre el congreso Hispano-Luso de Agricultura de conservación celebrado a finales de 1999. Además poseemos dos nuevas colaboraciones enviadas por vosotros. Elevándose la cifra actual a 76 documentos técnicos @groPreguntas - Ha vuelto a ser el sitio de encuentro para personas que buscan información agrícola. Este mes hemos recibido 97 cuestiones. @groNoticias - 47 noticias del sector para estar bien informados. @groEnlaces - Hemos añadido 96 nuevos enlaces, elevándose el número de enlaces a 2.300 de los cuales 1.300 son en nuestro idioma @groCursos - Con interesantes y numerosas novedades, alcanza la cifra de 121 cursos, jornadas, congresos y otros eventos clasificados. Article 25318 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.indiana.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!hardy.tc.umn.edu!news.nero.net!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: General New Queen Questions Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 14:07:31 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 8 Message-ID: <39382213.EE00A587@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 959980538 1594 129.101.81.41 (2 Jun 2000 21:15:38 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 2 Jun 2000 21:15:38 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25318 Have a few queen questions: There is a new queen in the hive but there are no eggs or capped brood whatsoever. What do i do? I suspect she is about 2 to 3 weeks old. Do i feed? How do i know if she is a virgin? I assume that i just should check back in a week and see if she is laying. Should i be worried? thanks matthew Article 25319 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!news.crhc.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!hardy.tc.umn.edu!news.nero.net!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: making sticky board and screen?? Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 14:39:15 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 5 Message-ID: <39382983.F5F6DB7D@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 959982442 2430 129.101.81.41 (2 Jun 2000 21:47:22 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 2 Jun 2000 21:47:22 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25319 has anyone done this? what size screen do i want? What did you use for sticky stuff? Thanks Matthew Article 25320 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: bosaiya@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Which type of pollen trap do you prefer? Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 01:22:24 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 20 Message-ID: <8h9mk7$k44$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.39.146.25 X-Article-Creation-Date: Sat Jun 03 01:22:24 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.5 [en] (Win98; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x60.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 216.39.146.25 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDbosaiya Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25320 Stupid machine crashed right as I was posting this last time so apologies if it duplicates. I'm wondering what type of pollen traps people prefer and why. Something that I could remove as needed seems nice, but I don't know if that's really important or not (again, any advice would be great). It seems like something that could be moved from hive to hive as needed would also be nice. Any ideas would be swell. Regards, Bosaiya .....designs to knock you out..... http://www.knockoutproductions.com Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25321 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Would like info please Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 02 Jun 2000 06:02:35 GMT References: <392343a8.11171209@news.nuthinbutnews.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000602020235.15503.00000234@ng-cp1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25321 I've found the magazines "Bee Culture" and "American Bee Journal" invaluable. And, for me, the best book(besides the classic "Hive and the Honeybee") as John Vivian's KEEPING BEES. Best to you. Lee Article 25322 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!nntp.flash.net!news.flash.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <3937F7BE.D28B675B@flash.net> From: Joe Esposito X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Newbie Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 37 Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 11:07:17 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.179.164.235 X-Complaints-To: abuse@flash.net X-Trace: news.flash.net 960030437 199.179.164.235 (Sat, 03 Jun 2000 06:07:17 CDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 06:07:17 CDT Organization: FlashNet Communications, http://www.flash.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25322 Sorry for bending your ears, but I had to tell someone who can relate to this. Well, my first year at beekeeping has not yet been a disaster. I joined the Cook-Dupage Beekeepers Club in northern Illinois, took a one-day course at McHenry College, bought two complete hives, each with two brood supers and two 6" supers. I installed my two 2-lb packages late April with just a brood box, minus one frame. On top of that I placed the inner cover, then a 6" super with a 3-gallon rubbermaid tub inside of it filled with sugar syrup. I put spacers between the cover and the tub so the bees could get thru the hole in the cover. I lined the tub with aluminum gutter gaurd so the bees could climb out. The packages arrived in a very healthy state and the bees didn't seem to mind me at all. But I kept them well smoked and well sprayed with sugar syrup while I was working. What a sticky mess! But no stings. I suppose I'm guilty of neglect, because I couldn't get back out there till 5 weeks later. The bees were still there and in a very good mood. I took that to mean I have a well-bred, laying queen in each hive, but I didn't go looking for her. The bees in each hive had filled the missing frame space with comb so I left it that way. I guess I should have installed the last frame much sooner. The sugar syrup was about half consumed. There were maybe 20 dead bees in each tub. The syrup had started to mold, so I removed it and left the half-filled tubs just outside the hives. The bees seemed to be ignoring the wax foundation frames I had given them, but I didn't remove any to check further. I did install a second brood box on each hive anyway. I removed a frame from each one because I didn't want to scrape off the comb they had attatched to the underside of the inner cover. The bees seemed too much to be loving it. The cells seemed to be filled with nectar. Also, they had built comb around the apistan strips, so I couldn't even find them. I don't expect any surplus this year anyway. I removed the formic acid packs. They didn't seem to have touched the brown patties I left for them. (I forgot already what they're called) So I left, once again with no stings. Now, tell me everything I did wrong. I can take it. Article 25323 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!feeder.qis.net!nntp.frontiernet.net!nntp.gctr.net!news.frontiernet.net!not-for-mail From: "busybee" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 07:16:22 -0500 Organization: Frontier GlobalCenter Inc. Lines: 82 Message-ID: <8hasps$ed6$1@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net> References: <20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com> <8h9fcr$rk5$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: 209-130-165-35.nas1.lec.gblx.net X-Trace: node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net 960034428 14758 209.130.165.35 (3 Jun 2000 12:13:48 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@frontiernet.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 3 Jun 2000 12:13:48 GMT X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25323 ...and with ridiculously low honey prices, how can keepers stay in business? No beekeepers=no bees=less food pollination=higher food prices at the grocery store. This is not an easy business--if your not fighting tooth and nail against varroa, hive beetles, lobbying for anti-dumping, insectide spray offs, bears, africanized bees, sore backs, stings and the list goes on and on, just to make a decent buck while jumping through hoops with ever higher fuel, trucking, insurance, Honey Board Assessments, the list goes on and on, ever dependent on weather conditions, equipment dependabilty/breakdowns, maintainence of equipment, the list goes on and on and then "someone" pulls the rug from beneath you with .52 honey! And then there are taxes! Gee, I guess you can squeeze blood from a turnip! Otherwise I don't believe their is a treat to our environment, as long as there are beekeepers...my rant...I feel better now. --Busybee (who is seriously thinking of getting a "city" job) Peter Edwards wrote in message <8h9fcr$rk5$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk>... >Local view from UK Midlands: > >Plenty of bees, but only because there are beekeepers treating them; >without treatment there would probably be none. > >Define feral! If we take it as 'wild' colonies that have not originated as >a swarm from a beekeepers hive (not sure how you would prove that!) then I >think it unlikely that any have survived - all those that I knew have died. >However, the sites will be re-inhabited with swarms from treated hives, so >it is likely that we will have a constant turnover of 'feral' colonies as >they die out and the sites are re-inhabited. > >The important point is that without beekeepers there would certainly be >very few bees and it is worrying that the numbers of beekeepers has declined >dramatically since the onset of varroa; we are down to a core of experienced >beekeepers who, by working hard, are coping with varroa. > >My understanding is that 'killer bees' have a shorter brood cycle and are >therefore coping with varroa better - although, fortunately, I have no >experience of them! > > >"LKLarson1" wrote in message >news:20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com... >> As a hobbyist who gives presentations to school children, I am often asked >how >> real is the danger to the environment (not enough honeybees left to >pollinize >> flowers/crops, etc.)? How serious is this decline of honeybees? From >reading >> the various magazines and books, I get a large range of views from >> "threatening", to extremely serious ("crisis"), to "endangered" (meaning >things >> are ok but we could use help). >> >> I am further asked if there are any wild (feral) bees left? What I have >read >> and been told is that all such honeybees have been wiped out, except for >the >> few that are "out there" having swarmed from beekeepers and they won't >last but >> a year or two without treatment. Is this correct from your >> observation/experience? >> >> One last question--it is my understanding that varola mites only infect >> honeybees--not wasps, hornets, mason bees, bumblebees, or yellowjackets. >What >> about so-termed "killer bees"? >> >> I appreciate all the nice replies I've had to previous questions--you are >sure >> a nice bunch of people out there..... >> >> >> Thanks for or swlerola miteslesshjnecametbim ilenate ize seflowers, etc. >not >> pollenizahd > > Article 25324 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!diablo.theplanet.net!news-lond.gip.net!news.gsl.net!gip.net!news5-gui.server.ntli.net!ntli.net!btnet-peer0!btnet!mendelevium.btinternet.com!not-for-mail From: Paul Hirons Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Beekeeping Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 15:13:11 +0100 Organization: BT Internet Lines: 7 Message-ID: <39391277.93DBC623@btinternet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: host62-7-113-125.btinternet.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en-gb]C-CCK-MCD NetscapeOnline.co.uk (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en-GB,en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25324 Theres a Club on Excite.Com called Beekeeping UK thats open really to anyone interested in Beekeeping. It could do with a few hobbyists putting up a few notes, pictures and a bit of input. To find it just look up www.excite.com and click on clubs. You can put anything up there and Beekeeping stories are especially welcome. Article 25325 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!nycmny1-snh1.gtei.net!washdc3-snh1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!dfiatx1-snr1.gtei.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Chris Bjelica" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8KRZ4.1878$ip.95254@dfiatx1-snr1.gtei.net> Subject: Re: How long before new queen does her thing Lines: 21 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3115.0 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: <9n9_4.1930$062.59863@dfiatx1-snr1.gtei.net> X-Trace: /KiKeToHBlFROR2KNt3/ZnsruFKSUJr9LGhfCNtjQ1DohEWxkMwwxUFP05OHyrl1Xj3JusY7jcz1!SEA46pZMqB4wzp8eUv+4HCQGiQ/CQ2VyHYBoN2WDO2r1iW65JyT87nUm/Z9t2i5wu9qqlWc5G6a6!ZC64Aw== X-Complaints-To: abuse@gte.net X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 15:20:37 GMT Distribution: world Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 15:20:37 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25325 George Styer wrote in message ... >Yes, it is too early. Based on the dates you provide, figure she was about 2 >days old when you saw her on the 25th so she should be going on her mating >flights about now. > >Was this a package or nuc started late this year? I wonder why you are >feeding this late. This could have contributed to their swarming as it will >stimulate the queen to lay prodigiously. It was a nuc started in mid-April. I thought that I was supposed to keep a feeder on unless I put honey supers on (not sure where I heard or read that). And I thought that I wanted the queen to lay as much as possible. Article 25326 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 03 Jun 2000 18:17:44 GMT References: <8h9fcr$rk5$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000603141744.12023.00001127@ng-fy1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25326 Peter wrote: I disagree. It seems that there is a new generation taking up beekeeping here in America, mostly hobbyists, who take varroa as a given, shrug it off and accept it as part of the background noise of beekeeping. For these people, varroa is "part of the way beekeeping has always been." Article 25327 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Javier Soto" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: @groForo, el Foro Hispano de Agricultura y Ganaderia Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 22:08:05 +0200 Lines: 14 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.2106.4 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.2106.4 NNTP-Posting-Host: 195.5.79.57 Message-ID: <39396575$1_2@news.arrakis.es> X-Trace: 3 Jun 2000 22:07:17 +0100, 195.5.79.57 Organization: Arrakis Servicios y Comunicaciones SLU Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeeds.belnet.be!naxos.belnet.be!news.belnet.be!news.rediris.es!newsfeed.mad.ttd.net!caladan.arrakis.es!195.5.79.57 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25327 Estimado/a Amigo/a: @groWeb, la página Hispana de Agricultura y Ganadería. http://www.agroweb-hispana.com con el fin de facilitar y agilizar los vinculos entre las personas de habla hispana y que nos relacionamos con la Agricultura y Ganadería, acaba de crear @groForo Una lista de correo abierta a todas las personas que tengan inquietudes en el mundo Agrícola y Ganadero y deseen utilizar Internet para poder comunicarse con personas con similares inquietudes. Article 25328 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: rec01rec@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How Much How Fast (Hive Development) Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 22:42:09 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 35 Message-ID: <8hc1jv$4rd$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <8h177e$qmo$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.147.175.138 X-Article-Creation-Date: Sat Jun 03 22:42:09 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; Windows 98; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x52.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 24.147.175.138 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDrec01rec Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25328 Thanks for the info...much appreciated. Are you up North as well? I was a little worried based on what the books said should be happening, but the queen has been laying and they have been flying in and out so I figured they must know what they are doing and I should just go with it. I have been having fun sitting next to the hive and watching them fly in and out on sunny days...also have a guy in western nh making me a nuc so I can get a second def healthy hive going as well... Ron In article , joeblow wrote: > Ron, > You will notice that as the weather warms up the bees will build better > comb and will build it faster. In cool weather they don't produce as much > wax and this will slow down thier comb building. It has been 60 to 65 > degrees up there by you lately maybe some days getting to 70 that is warm > enough for them to get the hive started but wait till you hit 80 or so, > the comb building will take off. Keep a log of what you do every time you > go to the hive. I keep mine in a word document with the icon on my desk > top. I'll bet you are having a ball... Buzz > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25329 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: rec01rec@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stupid Question from Beginner > Are My Bees Dead Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 22:59:34 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 72 Message-ID: <8hc2kh$5i9$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <8efrls$pc0$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <8h9fcp$rk5$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.147.175.138 X-Article-Creation-Date: Sat Jun 03 22:59:34 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; Windows 98; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x52.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 24.147.175.138 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDrec01rec Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25329 Hi Peter, Curious..how do you feed right to the hive and what is a contact feeder? (It gets cold enough around here that this is prob something I should know)...also when would I use a division feeder vs. the entrance feeder... Thanks, Ron In article <8h9fcp$rk5$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk>, "Peter Edwards" wrote: > They are dead I am afraid. > > You do not say how you were feeding them, but if it was very cold then you > would need to get the feed right to the cluster using something like a > contact feeder. > > "joeblow" wrote in message > news:MPG.13a000c670f6bd3f989682@news1.usenetserver.com... > > In article <8efrls$pc0$1@nnrp1.deja.com>, rec01rec@my-deja.com says... > > > Hi there, > > > > > > I am a beginner in NH and recently installed some > > > package bees in this rotten weather (didn't get > > > above 40 and was rainy for the past 14 days here > > > in New England) I ahve a probabaly pretty basic > > > question but I couldn't find any answers in the > > > books I have or on the web... > > > > > > Stupid question - here it is > > > > > > I installed the bees about a week ago, noticed > > > they weren't taking the sugar at all (it was > > > cold). In any case I am not sure they are > > > alive... checked them today (nice and warm > > > finally - got up to 68 today...first day above 45 > > > in 2 weeks) and they all basically look kind of > > > frozen, or to me, dead? The ABC of Bee Culture > > > says they sometimes look this way in the cold, > > > but it was pretty warm today. Are they dead? > > > Starved? What do you think? > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > Ron E. > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > > > Before you buy. > > > > > Hi, > > I don't want to alarm you but I had this experience too. If it reaches 65 > > to 70 degrees bees should look like live bees. If they look slow and > > listless kind of shivering, I would suspect some kind of poisening. The > > chemical Sevin that some folks use will make your bees look frozen. Buzz > > > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25330 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsxfer.eecs.umich.edu!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: rec01rec@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Light, Heat and Location Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 22:56:14 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 19 Message-ID: <8hc2e9$5ae$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.147.175.138 X-Article-Creation-Date: Sat Jun 03 22:56:14 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; Windows 98; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x52.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 24.147.175.138 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDrec01rec Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25330 Have my hive in New England, and have some questions about location type stuff. My hive location has plenty of sun, but not all day long, and not as much all morning (it did until the leaves grew in)...is sun most important for: 1. heating up the hive (sun hits the hive and heats it up, gets the bees going) 2. light so bees get going (light goes in entrance and tells them it is a good day and gets them going). Just curious...(if it is heat my hive is prob ok, it it is light then I can angle it a little better to let the first mornign light in the entrance...confused) Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25331 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!dc1.nntp.concentric.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp2.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: gfdavis@usit.net" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Light, Heat and Location Message-ID: <3939a371.16746931@news.usit.net> References: <8hc2e9$5ae$1@nnrp1.deja.com> X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/32.230 Lines: 32 Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 00:37:14 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.80.168.203 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp2.onemain.com 960079089 216.80.168.203 (Sat, 03 Jun 2000 20:38:09 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 20:38:09 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25331 I think your fine. I have mine in the woods and they have done fine and this is a natural setting if you think about it. If they were to swarm or were wild bee's they would be located in the woods most likely. They say to face them east toward the rising sun so as to get them up and going in the mornings. I have eleven hives and they face north and south switching every other hive. GD Sat, 03 Jun 2000 22:56:14 GMT, rec01rec@my-deja.com wrote: >Have my hive in New England, and have some questions about location >type stuff. > >My hive location has plenty of sun, but not all day long, and not as >much all morning (it did until the leaves grew in)...is sun most >important for: > >1. heating up the hive (sun hits the hive and heats it up, gets the >bees going) >2. light so bees get going (light goes in entrance and tells them it is >a good day and gets them going). > >Just curious...(if it is heat my hive is prob ok, it it is light then I >can angle it a little better to let the first mornign light in the >entrance...confused) > > >Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ >Before you buy. Article 25332 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmasters3!bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Howard Bowles" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com> <8h9fcr$rk5$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> <8hasps$ed6$1@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net> Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? Lines: 127 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.5 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 02:33:26 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.73.107.103 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 960086006 12.73.107.103 (Sun, 04 Jun 2000 02:33:26 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 02:33:26 GMT Organization: AT&T Worldnet Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25332 As a hobbyist (7 hives) and a CPA here in Washington state. I given the plight of a commercial beekeeper some thought. Beekeeping is like any other farm business. It is labor (especially yours) and capital intensive, has low margins and very dependent upon the weather. Honey has become even more of a commodity and without an effective lobby (like wheat or apples) the price it brings will fall to that of the lowest, most likely foreign, producer, too low to sustain a business here in the U.S. How to survive in business when you produce a fungible product whose demand is static? Good question! Among my thoughts, which others have suggested, is that for the commercial bk, the production of honey has become a serious drag on the real business of crop pollination. What to do? Try to find the least expensive method to dispose of it or create a niche market, along with its costs, for the particular type of honey you produce. Whatever you do, turn the honey, as efficiently as possible, into cash as soon as possible. Organize locally - perhaps form a local cooperative. Share equipment, share other resources. BKs are notoriously independent which can and often does create friction among the very people who need to work together to survive. From the finding and keeping of pollination clientele to the treatment for disease bks often work at odds with one another - its simply counter-productive. Practices that may have worked well in the past, i.e., undercutting bids, unprofessional comments about competitors, etc. only work to the groups detriment and should be abandoned. A tall order I know. The group could commission a formal study of the local and surrounding markets for crop pollination. Develop realistic cost and revenue assumptions, i.e., take a true business approach to the business. Too much already, enough said. Howard Bowles, CPA (WA) For replies, remove 'nospam' from address. busybee wrote in message <8hasps$ed6$1@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net>... >...and with ridiculously low honey prices, how can keepers stay in business? >No beekeepers=no bees=less food pollination=higher food prices at the >grocery store. This is not an easy business--if your not fighting tooth and >nail against varroa, hive beetles, lobbying for anti-dumping, insectide >spray offs, bears, africanized bees, sore backs, stings and the list goes >on and on, just to make a decent buck while jumping through hoops with ever >higher fuel, trucking, insurance, Honey Board Assessments, the list goes on >and on, ever dependent on weather conditions, equipment >dependabilty/breakdowns, maintainence of equipment, the list goes on and on >and then "someone" pulls the rug from beneath you with .52 honey! And then >there are taxes! Gee, I guess you can squeeze blood from a turnip! > >Otherwise I don't believe their is a treat to our environment, as long as >there are beekeepers...my rant...I feel better now. > >--Busybee (who is seriously thinking of getting a "city" job) > >Peter Edwards wrote in message <8h9fcr$rk5$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk>... >>Local view from UK Midlands: >> >>Plenty of bees, but only because there are beekeepers treating them; >>without treatment there would probably be none. >> >>Define feral! If we take it as 'wild' colonies that have not originated as >>a swarm from a beekeepers hive (not sure how you would prove that!) then I >>think it unlikely that any have survived - all those that I knew have died. >>However, the sites will be re-inhabited with swarms from treated hives, so >>it is likely that we will have a constant turnover of 'feral' colonies as >>they die out and the sites are re-inhabited. >> >>The important point is that without beekeepers there would certainly be >>very few bees and it is worrying that the numbers of beekeepers has >declined >>dramatically since the onset of varroa; we are down to a core of >experienced >>beekeepers who, by working hard, are coping with varroa. >> >>My understanding is that 'killer bees' have a shorter brood cycle and are >>therefore coping with varroa better - although, fortunately, I have no >>experience of them! >> >> >>"LKLarson1" wrote in message >>news:20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com... >>> As a hobbyist who gives presentations to school children, I am often >asked >>how >>> real is the danger to the environment (not enough honeybees left to >>pollinize >>> flowers/crops, etc.)? How serious is this decline of honeybees? From >>reading >>> the various magazines and books, I get a large range of views from >>> "threatening", to extremely serious ("crisis"), to "endangered" (meaning >>things >>> are ok but we could use help). >>> >>> I am further asked if there are any wild (feral) bees left? What I have >>read >>> and been told is that all such honeybees have been wiped out, except for >>the >>> few that are "out there" having swarmed from beekeepers and they won't >>last but >>> a year or two without treatment. Is this correct from your >>> observation/experience? >>> >>> One last question--it is my understanding that varola mites only infect >>> honeybees--not wasps, hornets, mason bees, bumblebees, or yellowjackets. >>What >>> about so-termed "killer bees"? >>> >>> I appreciate all the nice replies I've had to previous questions--you are >>sure >>> a nice bunch of people out there..... >>> >>> >>> Thanks for or swlerola miteslesshjnecametbim ilenate ize seflowers, etc. >>not >>> pollenizahd >> >> > > Article 25333 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 23:03:59 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <200006040303.XAA25270@cotse.com> From: "Anon" Subject: cancel this Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Organization: Cotse X-Anon-1: This is a pseudo-anonymous message, the sender cannot be verified. X-Anon-2: It did not originate from any address listed in the message. X-Abuse-to: abuse@cotse.com X-Comments: Anonymous mail2news gate web interface - http://packetderm.cotse.com/anonnews.htm. X-Comments-2: Our policies about abuse - http://packetderm.cotse.com/cgi-bin/blockit.cgi Mail-To-News-Contact: abuse@zedz.net Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news-xfer.siscom.net!news.itconsult.net!news.zedz.net!sewer-output!mail2news Lines: 6 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25333 just a test. C.K. Article 25334 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!135.173.83.20!wnmasters3!bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8KRZ4.1878$ip.95254@dfiatx1-snr1.gtei.net> <9n9_4.1930$062.59863@dfiatx1-snr1.gtei.net> Subject: Re: How long before new queen does her thing Lines: 47 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: <0Kj_4.2314$2b4.147702@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 03:07:40 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.205.98 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 960088060 12.72.205.98 (Sun, 04 Jun 2000 03:07:40 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 03:07:40 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25334 A nuc "shouldn't" swarm in 2 months. A likely combination of things contributed to it. My thoughts would be: 1. old queen 2. stimulated by feed 3. congested with nowhere to store syrup and the queen to lay Not sure where you are located, but perhaps you should have added a 2nd brood chamber sooner. Be patient and wait for the new queen to lay and add another brood chamber when she does. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "Chris Bjelica" wrote in message news:9n9_4.1930$062.59863@dfiatx1-snr1.gtei.net... > > George Styer wrote in message ... > >Yes, it is too early. Based on the dates you provide, figure she was about > 2 > >days old when you saw her on the 25th so she should be going on her mating > >flights about now. > > > >Was this a package or nuc started late this year? I wonder why you are > >feeding this late. This could have contributed to their swarming as it will > >stimulate the queen to lay prodigiously. > > > It was a nuc started in mid-April. > > I thought that I was supposed to keep a feeder on unless I put honey > supers on (not sure where I heard or read that). And I thought that I > wanted the queen to lay as much as possible. > > > > Article 25335 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!europa.netcrusader.net!63.208.208.143!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp3.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Ed" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Varroa and Tracheal Mites--Inherited Resistance Lines: 34 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 03:38:13 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.80.129.239 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp3.onemain.com 960107511 216.80.129.239 (Sun, 04 Jun 2000 04:31:51 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 04:31:51 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25335 FYI, I recently received this e-mail from a USDA entomologist regarding inheritance of Varroa and Tracheal Mite resistance traits: >How resistant to varroa are Russian outcrosses? "I think it depends on the outcross. Some are and some are not at all resistant." >Is resistance dominant in half-breeds? "No, in the best case the out crosses would be somewhat resistant. But, I know of at least one cross where the domestic susceptability is dominant." >I ordered open-mated, full blooded Russian queens this spring. So far, I am very pleased with the results. Bees that get mites on them vibrate and jump around until they get attention from the others. "That is good. It suggests that they may be at least somewhat resistant." >In your opinion, what races of bees are the most resistant to tracheal mites? "The darker bees from northern Europe generally are more resistant to tracheal mites. However, many US bee breeders are trying to improve thier stocks for tracheal mite resistance. The genetics are rather simple for tm resistance, so those that try to improve their stock can do so rather easily. " -- Ed http://www.geocites.com/RainForest/Canopy/1436/ Article 25336 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Message-ID: <393A3622.96B3483E@zzclinic.net> Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 06:57:38 -0400 From: Bill Truesdell X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping To: JMitc1014 Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? References: <8h9fcr$rk5$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> <20000603141744.12023.00001127@ng-fy1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit NNTP-Posting-Host: d-p2-38.clinic.net X-Trace: 4 Jun 2000 05:57:07 -0400, d-p2-38.clinic.net Lines: 23 Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!newsfeed.cwix.com!News.Destek.net!d-p2-38.clinic.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25336 JMitc1014 wrote: > > Peter wrote: > beekeepers who, by working hard, are coping with varroa.> > > I disagree. > It seems that there is a new generation taking up beekeeping here in America, > mostly hobbyists, who take varroa as a given, shrug it off and accept it as > part of the background noise of beekeeping. For these people, varroa is "part > of the way beekeeping has always been." I agree for most who had few hives- and few could be as many as 50. At our State beekeepers meetings I have noticed a gradual transition from the old timers to new beekeepers. The old timers- not old beekeepers- stayed with the tried and true and lost everything. The new ones took mites as a given and treated from day one. Plus, our beekeeping schools are thriving. Lots of gardeners and fruit growers want to have pollinators- the reason I started keeping bees. Bill T Bath, ME -- If there is a zz before clinic.net, remove it to reply directly. Article 25337 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 10:42:47 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 15 Message-ID: <393a3243.62355968@news1.radix.net> References: <20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p10.a4.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25337 On 01 Jun 2000 08:33:15 GMT, lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1) wrote: >As a hobbyist who gives presentations to school children, I am often asked how >real is the danger to the environment (not enough honeybees left to pollinize >flowers/crops, etc.)? How serious is this decline of honeybees? From reading >the various magazines and books, I get a large range of views from >"threatening", to extremely serious ("crisis"), to "endangered" (meaning things >are ok but we could use help). > I think the biggest threat is someone teaching our children made up words like pollinize! beekeep Article 25338 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!netnews.com!newspeer1.nac.net!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 10:49:59 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 21 Message-ID: <393a32ed.62526345@news1.radix.net> References: <20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com> <8h9fcr$rk5$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> <8hasps$ed6$1@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: p10.a4.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25338 On Sun, 04 Jun 2000 02:33:26 GMT, "Howard Bowles" wrote: >As a hobbyist (7 hives) and a CPA here in Washington state. I given the >plight of a commercial beekeeper some thought. >Beekeeping is like any other farm business. It is labor (especially yours) >and capital intensive, has low margins and very dependent upon the weather. >Honey has become even more of a commodity and without an effective lobby >(like wheat or apples) the price it brings will fall to that of the lowest, >most likely foreign, producer, too low to sustain a business here in the >U.S. When the Washington state apple crop is harvested they are advertized nationwide and the housewife LOOKS for the Washington label. When's the last time you heard a buy U.S. honey ad on the radio? Our own National Honey Board doesn't even advocate U.S. honey! Until the housewife is convinced to look for the "produced" in the U.S. label sales will be stale. Greg the beekeep Article 25339 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jpa555@aol.com (JPA555) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: hive in a tree Lines: 11 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 04 Jun 2000 12:17:56 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000604081756.06462.00000536@ng-cq1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25339 I'm a new beekeeper been doing it a little over a year, I have 5 hives in CT last friday we had a bad storm and a big oak tree fell not far from me there is a huge honey bee hive in the trunk, the trunk split wide open you can see all the comb all the bees there is loads of old comb and new comb, The people want to save the bees and so do I they said that as long as they lived there ther was a hive in that tree (30 years) How can I get this into a hive body? .... I don't know if the queen made it through the fall, I'll probly get the heck stung out of me but I think it is worth, they must be a good wintering bee stock and I would love to get the bees out of there plus the experance of doing something like this I would love to hear any coments of what you would do. Thanks Jim Article 25340 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newspeer1.nac.net!news1.radix.net!saltmine.radix.net!not-for-mail From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Varroa and Tracheal Mites--Inherited Resistance Date: 4 Jun 2000 08:39:47 -0400 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 32 Message-ID: <8hdimj$du3$1@saltmine.radix.net> References: Reply-To: adamf@radix.net NNTP-Posting-Host: saltmine.radix.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25340 Remember: the basis of any desirable trait in a line, strain, breed. landrace, c.v., variety, ecotype, whatever, is the availability of a tangible factor to select for. Ask any apicultural researcher what causes suceptability to varroa mites or tracheal mites and they'll look sheepish. They do not know. Bee breeders who have had success, use selection to work for them. For example, in the H.I.P. project (see metalab.unc.edu/bees --> click on pointers) breeders and beekeepers have selected lines of bees that have survived without any treatment in heavily infested areas of varroa mite. They do not know exactly why the bees survive, but they do. Same with tracheal mites. There are a few good papers on why certain strains of honey bees might be more resistant to varroa: one paper looks at the way the bee's mandible is shaped, and how it is more efficient in cutting mite's body parts. This is research that can be very useful to a bee breeder: now how can a test be devised to determine if one's bees have sharp or dull mandibles without spending days actually looking at bees with visual enhancing apparatus? Another series of papers illustrates how bees can be selected for an "anti-varroa" factor and how this is heritable (able to be passed on to offspring). The research doesn't explicate how the bees deal with the mites, just that they do and how to select for the bees that do. Adam -- Adam Finkelstein adamf@radix.net http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 25341 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!saltmine.radix.net!not-for-mail From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: H.I.P. project's URL Date: 4 Jun 2000 08:49:09 -0400 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 7 Message-ID: <8hdj85$ee9$1@saltmine.radix.net> Reply-To: adamf@radix.net NNTP-Posting-Host: saltmine.radix.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25341 Here's the url to the H.I.P. project: http://Griffes.tripod.com/HIP1.html -- Adam Finkelstein adamf@radix.net http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 25342 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: hive in a tree Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 15:30:14 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 34 Message-ID: <393a7329.78970725@news1.radix.net> References: <20000604081756.06462.00000536@ng-cq1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p9.a1.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25342 On 04 Jun 2000 12:17:56 GMT, jpa555@aol.com (JPA555) wrote: >I'm a new beekeeper been doing it a little over a year, I have 5 hives in CT >last friday we had a bad storm and a big oak tree fell not far from me there is >a huge honey bee hive in the trunk, the trunk split wide open you can see all >the comb all the bees there is loads of old comb and new comb, The people want >to save the bees and so do I they said that as long as they lived there ther >was a hive in that tree (30 years) How can I get this into a hive body? .... >I don't know if the queen made it through the fall, I'll probly get the heck >stung out of me but I think it is worth, they must be a good wintering bee >stock and I would love to get the bees out of there plus the experance of doing >something like this I would love to hear any coments of what you would do. >Thanks Jim Actually, it has been my experience that the bees tollerate being handled after such an event fairly calmly. I was asked to pick up a hive that had been tossed by a tornado and didn't really need a veil. Somehow they know when they are being helped! Take regular hive bodies with frames but no foundation, a bottom board, inner cover, and a top. A box or rubber bands or string is also needed. Carefully cut the combs so that the fit into the frames and hold them in place with the rubberbands. Put each frame in the hive as you go. Before you know it the bees will take over the hive. Concentrate on getting the brood combs with brood not the honey. The bees can transfer the honey. They can't move the brood. Keep shaking the bees into the hive as you work. Many will stay with the brood. After you have done what you can, button up the hive and leave it for a couple of days so that they have time to move the honey and sercure the combs into the frames. I still have brood frames that were obtained this way in use after many years. After a couple of weeks the rubber bands can be cut to be removed. The bees will remove string by themselves. Greg the beekeep Article 25343 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: 2rubes@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Two many supers combining. Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 16:29:01 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 20 Message-ID: <8he040$cns$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.224.146.179 X-Article-Creation-Date: Sun Jun 04 16:29:01 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.72 [en] (Win98; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x56.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 216.224.146.179 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUID2rubes Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25343 Hi, we are three year bee keepers. We came into spring with 4 strong hives of 4 medium supers each. One swarmed which we captured. We took frames with queen cells from that mother hive and made nukes. A few weeks later, when we saw we had 3 laying queens, we divided the other 3 hives and used the queens on half. Some of the hives got very strong where we added a third medium super. With the onset of our blackberry honey flow, we are combining these hives, using the strongest and/or youngest queens, our hives are now 5 supers high, and we are putting on honey supers. My questions 1. How do we get back to 3 supers, which was what I started with? 2.And, do I still have to check for swarm cells? We still found a few (made more nukes) when we were doing the divides. Thank you so much. Janet Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25344 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newspush.london1.eu.level3.net!level3eu!newspeer.highwayone.net!newspeer.clara.net!news.clara.net!peernews!peer.cwci.net!news1-hme0.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Geoff Aucklland" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How long before new queen does her thing Lines: 9 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 18:29:55 +0100 NNTP-Posting-Host: 195.44.205.249 X-Trace: news1-hme0 960139980 195.44.205.249 (Sun, 04 Jun 2000 18:33:00 BST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 18:33:00 BST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25344 So how long does it take for the new queen to start to lay? My hives swarmed nearly 4 weeks ago and there is still no sign of brood or eggs despite lots of bees and active foraging. I never can find the queen so the fact that I haven't found her is of no help. -- Geoff Article 25345 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: 2rubes@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: making sticky board and screen?? Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 18:34:00 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 141 Message-ID: <8he7eo$hvi$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <39382983.F5F6DB7D@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.224.146.179 X-Article-Creation-Date: Sun Jun 04 18:34:00 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.72 [en] (Win98; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x66.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 216.224.146.179 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUID2rubes Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25345 In article <39382983.F5F6DB7D@uidaho.edu>, Matthew Pollard wrote: > has anyone done this? what size screen do i want? What did you use for > sticky stuff? > Thanks > Matthew > > Hi, my husband made 6 screens to use in our hives. They are great. He used standard window screen. We got aluminum sheets from our local newspaper, cut them to fit with tabs to pull out of the hive (very important). We coat the aluminum with vegetable oil that we keep in a large green lemon juice squeeze bottle. If we are not counting mites, we clean them once a week with an old sock and apply new vegetable oil. Here is some correspondence with Dadent and our state bee guy that is real interesting. Dadent letters: Hi, I just wanted to make sure. We have the varroa mite screens on our > hives with sticky boards underneath. Of course I lost the instructions > and now I can not even find your catalogue. And now I am counting > mites. I am monitoring 6 hives and the most I have found is 50 mites in > 4 days. > Questions: > 1. I am pretty sure your instructions said something like, you would > have an infestation you would have to treat if you counted 100 mites in > 48 hours (without strips hanging). Is this correct? > 2. I can only see the large brownish red oval mites. What about > immature and so on that I can not really see? Is there something I could > do to calculate them in? Is that important? > 3. I tried doing a grid and count the mites in the grid, but some of > the time I only have one, and a lot of the time I have none. Can I use > this method (so much faster) or would I be risking miscounting? > > Thank you for your time. I am very happy about the screens, I feel it > is wiping out varroa mites, these guys are dead and out of there. Answers 1. yes 2. The immature mites and very small males are inside cells feeding on developing brrod. The lage reddish oval mites are female that are newly emerged. Hard to calculate and quantify the mites not seen. That is why the rule of thumb of x amount in 48 hours has been chosen. 3. If you are only trying to identify the threshold of 100 mites in 48 hours then the grid system with only 6 hives may be misleading. At this time of the year the bees are out reproducing mites. When fall comes and the bee population decreases and the mites doesn't thats when your ratio of mites to bees gets overwhelming. A varroa screen is great but you may want to use drone comb and Formic Acid in late ssummer to stay ahead. Take Care, Jerry Hayes And to Eric Mussen, California > Being our state apiarist, do you agree with this (Dandant's ) guideline? This guideline, as you call it, or an "economic threshold" as pest management specialist would call it, probably is as good as any. The problem is that a colony can handle up to 10,000 mites with little damage or loss of productivity, if the mites are not vectoring RNA virus diseases. If the viruses are around, only a few hundred mites will be devastating. Do your bees or the mites in them have "deformed wing virus?" Your only clue is seeing dead pupae or very young emerged workers that have runty or terribly malformed wings. Their abdomens are likely to be shrunken, too. > I have counted 30-60 mites in 48 hours. I have counted 50-80 mites >after one week. I put Apistan strips in the fall and in early spring >we did not have any mites so I did not use them in the spring. I have >not seen any chewed wings recently and only 2 mites on bees out six >hives Drs. Keith Delaplane and Michael Hood suggest that the economic threshold in the southeastern U.S. is between 59-187 naturally fallen mites, per night, in August, and 0.6-10.2 mites in February. > Yesterday I tried putting Tobacco in my smoker (about 10 >cigarettes). According to what I read, you are supposed to close the >hive for one minute which I didn't do. The bees fled from the smoke. I >will examine the boards for mite drop after 48 hours. There was a special, high-nicotine tobacco product on the market for this purpose, available for Joel Willard Productions, 61 S. Herbert Road, Riverside, IL 60546 [(708) 447-2291] or FAX (708) 447-1158. > My questions are: > Could I make a grid and count the mites in the grid and still be >somewhat accurate? Yes, grids will work fine, but they have to be "fair." One researcher made a grid with one inch squares on it. Using a random numbers generator, she blacked out three-quarters of the squares. She multiplies what she finds in the remaining squares by 4. > I think there are more mites in the center strip >under the brood nest where I can pick up maybe 2 in a 3" grid, but then >a lot of the grids are empty.. I am not sure how to work it. If you know that only certain places are likely to have mites, use that as your "world." Divide it into squares, "randomly" eliminate a significant portion of the squares (don't just pick a bunch, your brain isn't random enough), count the remaining squares and multiply by the appropriate factor. > Also, I have been finding a beige translucent mite. Is that an >immature or do they shed their skins like a molt, do I count those as >well? Only count the dark ones. Immature female mites are lighter in color, but they are doomed, reproductively, so they don't count. The mites do molt as they grow, but the shed skins only show up after the bee emerges from the cell and the workers clean up the cell for the next larva. Eric. Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25346 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!135.173.83.71!wnfilter1!worldnet-localpost!bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Howard Bowles" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com> <8h9fcr$rk5$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> <8hasps$ed6$1@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net> <393a32ed.62526345@news1.radix.net> Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? Lines: 7 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.5 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 19:34:00 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.73.106.79 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 960147240 12.73.106.79 (Sun, 04 Jun 2000 19:34:00 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 19:34:00 GMT Organization: AT&T Worldnet Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25346 Yes, I agree. While I have read articles in the bk magazines I am still uncertain just what the Honey board does. Article 25347 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.gamma.ru!Gamma.RU!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!not-for-mail From: "Pamela Buckle" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: medical propolis Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 19:26:07 +0100 Organization: UUNET WorldCom server (post doesn't reflect views of UUNET WorldCom Lines: 22 Message-ID: <8hef1a$6jd$2@lure.pipex.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: userdw07.uk.uudial.com X-Trace: lure.pipex.net 960151402 6765 62.188.8.1 (4 Jun 2000 20:43:22 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uk.uu.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 4 Jun 2000 20:43:22 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25347 Teri Bachus wrote ... for information purposes only..... > Beehive Material Fights Ulcer Bacteria > > SAN DIEGO (Reuters Health) - Propolis, a material used by bees in the > construction and maintenance of their hives, has been a folk remedy used for centuries in > many cultures to fight infections............etc. In recent hospital skin tests I was found to react to propolis which causes me to have cracked and hard skin on the palms of my hands. I have met one or two other beekeepers who have similar problems, which is what made me suggest that propolis and dirty beeswax be included in the substances tested on me. Are there others out there who agree with me that it is a little risky to look on propolis as a wonder folklore cure-all, rather than the varnish component it really is? Hands up all you beekeepers with a skin problem on your hands. Martin. Article 25348 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!join.news.pipex.net!pipex!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!not-for-mail From: "Pamela Buckle" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Solar Wax Extractor Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 19:06:07 +0100 Organization: UUNET WorldCom server (post doesn't reflect views of UUNET WorldCom Lines: 38 Message-ID: <8hef15$6jd$1@lure.pipex.net> References: <392E79D5.CA6A0E07@mail.which.net> <8grsm4$87b$1@newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: userdw07.uk.uudial.com X-Trace: lure.pipex.net 960151397 6765 62.188.8.1 (4 Jun 2000 20:43:17 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uk.uu.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 4 Jun 2000 20:43:17 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25348 Maybe it's hotter here in Milton Keynes, but I had trouble with double glazing units cracking up when the sun was at its best. I found the solution was to use several strips of glass about 20cm wide across the home made wooden frame of the lid of the extractor (use a real window frame with thin rails tacked in to hold the glass loosely) . That way they can all expand and contract at their own rate and you get less breakages, and also it's not a disaster if one cracks - you only have to replace one strip of glass. Another reason in my case is that I am a recycling freak and you can cut strips from any old discarded glass. Cutting glass is a lot easier than most people think, but remember to run another bit of (scrap) glass firmly along the new cut edges to blunt them. Highest temp. recorded in my solar extractor: 119C. As this is a lot too hot for the good of the wax I adapted the foot end of the box to have an outlet. Wax runs out into external temperature collector when it melts and does not sit in the hot box going brown. To tell the truth I mostly just melt old wax on a cooker with rainwater these days as I can do that independent of the weather or season. Martin. Peter Edwards wrote in message news:8grsm4$87b$1@newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk... > Sun??? You are an optimist given the weather that we have had just lately. > > Plenty of beekeeping books have drawings of solar extractors, but I would > suggest that you start with the glass. An old sealed double glazing unit is > ideal (often available from double glazing companies) and this will then > determine the final size - get one as large as possible. > > "Mark Johnson" wrote in message > news:392E79D5.CA6A0E07@mail.which.net... > > Hi, does anyone have a plan/instructions for making a solar was > > extractor? .......> > > > Mark Article 25349 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!195.92.193.196!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stupid Question from Beginner > Are My Bees Dead Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 23:22:53 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 103 Message-ID: <8hensf$ikl$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <8efrls$pc0$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <8h9fcp$rk5$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> <8hc2kh$5i9$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-213.fluorine.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk 960160463 19093 62.136.8.213 (4 Jun 2000 23:14:23 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 4 Jun 2000 23:14:23 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25349 In the UK beekeepers mainly use two types of feeder. The first choice for most is the Miller or Ashforth type which looks rather like a shallow super but with a solid bottom. This goes on the top of the hive and holds 2-3 gallons of syrup; there is a slot or hole, either in the centre or at the side, where the bees can come up to feed and there is a 'fence' which stops them drowning in the syrup. This type is good for feeding bees in the autumn ready for winter. However, if the weather is cold, then the bees will not break the cluster to go to the syrup. One way of overcoming this is to use a contact feeder, which is basically a plastic bucket with a tight fitting lid with some fine mesh wire cloth set in the middle of the lid. The bucket is filled with syrup and then inverted over the colony. By placing it on the top bars the bees can feed without having to leave the cluster. Disadvantages are that variations in temperature can cause the feeder to dispense syrup rather faster than the bees can cope with it and you do need an empty super around the bucket to put the roof on. My own preference is for baker's fondant, a mixture of powdered sugar (not icing sugar which has additives) and glucose; it is used by bakers to cover cakes, comes in 12.5kg blocks, and can be used for feeding at any time of the year simply by cutting off a lump and placing it over the colony. Entrance feeders are very rare in the UK; division board feeders are sometimes used in nucleus hives, but would not really be large enough for anything other than a very small colony. wrote in message news:8hc2kh$5i9$1@nnrp1.deja.com... > Hi Peter, > > Curious..how do you feed right to the hive and what is a contact > feeder? (It gets cold enough around here that this is prob something I > should know)...also when would I use a division feeder vs. the entrance > feeder... > > Thanks, > > Ron > > In article <8h9fcp$rk5$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk>, > "Peter Edwards" > wrote: > > They are dead I am afraid. > > > > You do not say how you were feeding them, but if it was very cold > then you > > would need to get the feed right to the cluster using something like a > > contact feeder. > > > > "joeblow" wrote in message > > news:MPG.13a000c670f6bd3f989682@news1.usenetserver.com... > > > In article <8efrls$pc0$1@nnrp1.deja.com>, rec01rec@my-deja.com > says... > > > > Hi there, > > > > > > > > I am a beginner in NH and recently installed some > > > > package bees in this rotten weather (didn't get > > > > above 40 and was rainy for the past 14 days here > > > > in New England) I ahve a probabaly pretty basic > > > > question but I couldn't find any answers in the > > > > books I have or on the web... > > > > > > > > Stupid question - here it is > > > > > > > > I installed the bees about a week ago, noticed > > > > they weren't taking the sugar at all (it was > > > > cold). In any case I am not sure they are > > > > alive... checked them today (nice and warm > > > > finally - got up to 68 today...first day above 45 > > > > in 2 weeks) and they all basically look kind of > > > > frozen, or to me, dead? The ABC of Bee Culture > > > > says they sometimes look this way in the cold, > > > > but it was pretty warm today. Are they dead? > > > > Starved? What do you think? > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > Ron E. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > > > > Before you buy. > > > > > > > Hi, > > > I don't want to alarm you but I had this experience too. If it > reaches 65 > > > to 70 degrees bees should look like live bees. If they look slow and > > > listless kind of shivering, I would suspect some kind of poisening. > The > > > chemical Sevin that some folks use will make your bees look > frozen. Buzz > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Before you buy. Article 25350 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!oleane.net!oleane!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 23:46:06 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 18 Message-ID: <8hensi$ikl$3@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <8h9fcr$rk5$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> <20000603141744.12023.00001127@ng-fy1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-213.fluorine.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk 960160466 19093 62.136.8.213 (4 Jun 2000 23:14:26 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 4 Jun 2000 23:14:26 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25350 Glad to hear it. This is not the general experience in the UK. "JMitc1014" wrote in message news:20000603141744.12023.00001127@ng-fy1.aol.com... > Peter wrote: > beekeepers who, by working hard, are coping with varroa.> > > I disagree. > It seems that there is a new generation taking up beekeeping here in America, > mostly hobbyists, who take varroa as a given, shrug it off and accept it as > part of the background noise of beekeeping. For these people, varroa is "part > of the way beekeeping has always been." Article 25351 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!194.176.220.129!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Light, Heat and Location Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 23:44:24 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 51 Message-ID: <8hensh$ikl$2@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <8hc2e9$5ae$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-213.fluorine.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk 960160465 19093 62.136.8.213 (4 Jun 2000 23:14:25 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 4 Jun 2000 23:14:25 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25351 This could start a debate about the ideal hive and apiary location! Here are 10 ideas for starters: 1. Facing SE is said to be ideal, but I know that Brother Adam had hives in his home apiary in blocks of four - each pointing in a different direction; he could detect no difference in performance. 2. Good air drainage in winter - avoid frost pockets. 3. Woodland can be good in summer as it provides shade, but can be very damp and dark in winter. Shade can also be provided by growing plants such as runner beans on the south side of the hives - as the summer gets hotter, the beans will provide more shade. 4. Good windbreaks are essential - the ideal is a hedge as this will slow the wind without the turbulence that a wall will cause. 5. Good access - at all times of the year! 6. Away from paths used by the public. 7. Early pollen available near the hives. 8. Good local forage - obviously. 9. Suitable source of water nearby. 10. Good security if the hives are in an out-apiary. wrote in message news:8hc2e9$5ae$1@nnrp1.deja.com... > Have my hive in New England, and have some questions about location > type stuff. > > My hive location has plenty of sun, but not all day long, and not as > much all morning (it did until the leaves grew in)...is sun most > important for: > > 1. heating up the hive (sun hits the hive and heats it up, gets the > bees going) > 2. light so bees get going (light goes in entrance and tells them it is > a good day and gets them going). > > Just curious...(if it is heat my hive is prob ok, it it is light then I > can angle it a little better to let the first mornign light in the > entrance...confused) > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Before you buy. Article 25352 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!194.176.220.129!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.wirehub.nl!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 00:07:04 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 23 Message-ID: <8hensj$ikl$4@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com> <393a3243.62355968@news1.radix.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-213.fluorine.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk 960160467 19093 62.136.8.213 (4 Jun 2000 23:14:27 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 4 Jun 2000 23:14:27 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25352 > I think the biggest threat is someone teaching our children made up > words like pollinize! > > beekeep Very true, but even beekeepers (who should know better!) frequently use incorrect terminology as a glance through recent postings will readily prove. For example, the use of 'hive' to describe a colony of bees in a tree! For the record: Bees carry pollen from the anthers of a 'polliniser' (the plant that supplies the pollen) and 'pollinate' a flower by depositing the pollen on the stigma. The pollen may then 'fertilise' the flower. The plants will, of course, be 'polliniferous' (i.e. bearing pollen). Another good word for Scrabble addicts is 'pollinosis' - hay fever to you or I. Article 25353 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.wirehub.nl!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp2.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Ed" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8hdimj$du3$1@saltmine.radix.net> Subject: Re: Varroa and Tracheal Mites--Inherited Resistance Lines: 74 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 19:22:37 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.80.176.77 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp2.onemain.com 960164192 216.80.176.77 (Sun, 04 Jun 2000 20:16:32 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 20:16:32 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25353 Hi Adam, I agree that resistance to Varroa and TM in general, may be the result of many different traits. As with many breeding programs, there may be many characteristics aside from the obvious that attribute to a desirable outcome. For example, I work with Dr. Gary Griffin and ACCF at Virginia Tech in their research and breeding of pure American Chestnuts, where many factors may be responsible for the survival of a few large trees. According to Dr. Tom Rinderer, Lead Research Entomologist, USDA Honey Bee Breeding, Genetics and Physiology Laboratory in Baton Rouge, LA, there are specific traits in the case of Russian Honeybees, responsible for resistance to Varroa to which I think he was referring in my post. I personally have a hive of local feral bees that I think is continuing to survive because of the way it handles its drone brood (Strictly a guess) since Varroa in our area seems to have resistance to Apistan strips. For the past three years, this one hive only has periodically uncapped and dragged out most of the drone brood for no apparent reason (unless they sense infestation with Varroa). Thanks very much for your efforts regarding Honeybees and this newsgroup. Best Regards, -- Ed http://www.geocites.com/RainForest/Canopy/1436/ Adam Finkelstein wrote in message news:8hdimj$du3$1@saltmine.radix.net... > Remember: the basis of any desirable trait in a line, strain, breed. landrace, > c.v., variety, ecotype, whatever, is the availability of a tangible factor to > select for. > > Ask any apicultural researcher what causes suceptability to varroa mites or > tracheal mites and they'll look sheepish. They do not know. > > Bee breeders who have had success, use selection to work for them. For example, > in the H.I.P. project (see metalab.unc.edu/bees --> click on pointers) > breeders and beekeepers have selected lines of bees that have survived without > any treatment in heavily infested areas of varroa mite. They do not know > exactly why the bees survive, but they do. > > Same with tracheal mites. > > There are a few good papers on why certain strains of honey bees might be more > resistant to varroa: one paper looks at the way the bee's mandible is shaped, > and how it is more efficient in cutting mite's body parts. This is research > that can be very useful to a bee breeder: now how can a test be devised to > determine if one's bees have sharp or dull mandibles without spending days > actually looking at bees with visual enhancing apparatus? > > Another series of papers illustrates how bees can be selected for an > "anti-varroa" factor and how this is heritable (able to be passed on to > offspring). The research doesn't explicate how the bees deal with the mites, > just that they do and how to select for the bees that do. > > Adam > -- > Adam Finkelstein > adamf@radix.net > http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 25354 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How long before new queen does her thing Lines: 31 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 05 Jun 2000 04:51:10 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000605005110.09704.00001100@ng-mf1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25354 >So how long does it take for the new queen to start to lay? >My hives swarmed nearly 4 weeks ago and there is still no sign of brood or >eggs despite lots of bees and active foraging. I never can find the queen so >the fact that I haven't found her is of no help. You make a good arguement for swarm prevention. If I had the choice between the swarm and the hive that cast the swarm, I'd take the swarm every time. It seems to take the old hive forever to get going again, and sometimes it doesn't, probably because the queen got eaten or lost on her mating flight. And yes, I don't succeed in preventing swarming in all my bees either.... I routinely give a frame (sometimes 2) of brood containing at least a few eggs to broodless hives in this pattern. Don't bother looking for the queen; most of the time you can't find her, and you get the bees all in an uproar. The bees are usually pretty snotty anyway, when there are no young bees to balance the age spread. This gives them fresh workers to keep up their strength, plus another chance to raise a queen, if their first effort failed. Or you can use it as a test to see if they really are queenless. If they build cells, they are. Then you can let them finish, or give them a caged queen (preferably with another frame of sealed brood for better acceptance). Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25355 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!europa.netcrusader.net!152.163.239.131!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Light, Heat and Location Lines: 60 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 05 Jun 2000 05:02:30 GMT References: <8hensh$ikl$2@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000605010230.09704.00001101@ng-mf1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25355 From: "Peter Edwards" edwards.p@OUTstratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk >Here are 10 ideas for starters: > >1. Facing SE is said to be ideal, but I know that Brother Adam had hives in >his home apiary in blocks of four - each pointing in a different direction; >he could detect no difference in performance. I don't think the first light into the entrance is all that important. Here in South Carolina, my bees all are on vine crop pollination. The locations are picked in consultation with the grower, and I always tell them the ideal is morning sun and afternoon shade. We've already had temperatures over 100 F, so I insist on shade for at least part of the day. I face entrances whichever way the pallets happen to be most conveniently placed. >2. Good air drainage in winter - avoid frost pockets. Absolutely vital. Frost pockets can be MUCH colder than areas with good air drainage. >3. Woodland can be good in summer as it provides shade, but can be very damp >and dark in winter. Shade can also be provided by growing plants such as >runner beans on the south side of the hives - as the summer gets hotter, the >beans will provide more shade. I like hardwoods, which give shade in summer, and are more open to sun in winter. I don't like pine forests, also there is more fire danger. In some places I find a thick hardwood forest is too much shade. I've got to do a little clearing in a couple of my yards. Once the trees leaf out, the bees just seem to sit there. > >4. Good windbreaks are essential - the ideal is a hedge as this will slow >the wind without the turbulence that a wall will cause. > >5. Good access - at all times of the year! My most valuable yards are ones I can drive to after 5 inches of rain, which happens more often than I'd like. >6. Away from paths used by the public. >7. Early pollen available near the hives. > >8. Good local forage - obviously. > >9. Suitable source of water nearby. > >10. Good security if the hives are in an out-apiary. Locked gates are nice, unless you have a hunt club that keeps changing locks. I carry a chain cutter nowadays, and will cut the chain and insert my own lock if necessary. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25356 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!news.gradwell.net!diablo.theplanet.net!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!152.163.239.129!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bobpursley@aol.com (Bob Pursley) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Texas Swarm Lines: 22 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 05 Jun 2000 13:59:04 GMT References: <8hg9t3$vdc$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com X-Newsreader: Session Scheduler Message-ID: <20000605095904.23290.00001275@nso-fy.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25356 In article <8hg9t3$vdc$1@nnrp1.deja.com>, mrezac@hotmail.com writes: > >I read the rec.gardens forum and a post was sent from TX about a >swarm. Seems someone called the fire department about the swarm in his >backyard. The dept. killed the swarm. Most posted they were amazed >they were killed. He seems to think most beekeepers in TX won't take a >swarm due to diesease and not knowing if they are african bees. > >If you are near Mission TX and would be interested in being contacted >his email is: hotdog5919@my-deja.com. > Mission Tx is in the heart of AFB territory. When you try to gather an AFB swarm, they are NOT docile, and guess who gets sued? AFB are not like the European HBee.. When I was a kid, you could carry swarms on a stick, but you cant even come close that that with AFB. Anyone want to try a bee beard? It doesnt surprise me they were killed, in a residential area, that would be the advice I would give, especially If I were called to testify in a court case. The evidence of violent attack is too compelling to ignore, especially for those who are supposed be knowledgable about bees. Frankly, these bees should NOT be kept in residential areas. Article 25357 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!12.127.17.134!attbtf!att541!att542!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Allergies Associated With Beekeeping Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 08:25:12 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 42 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust173.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8hgcnv$1ut$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <8hef1a$6jd$2@lure.pipex.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust173.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25357 -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Thousands served... > In recent hospital skin tests I was found to react to propolis ... > Are there others out there who agree with me that it is a little risky to > look on propolis as a wonder folklore cure-all, rather than the varnish > component it really is? Yup, that is pretty common. FWIW, I am allergic to bees and I run 3,000 hives. "What?", you say. No, I'm not allergic to stings, they hardly cause a welt -- usually. I am allergic to the bees themselves. That is okay as long as they are whole and running around, but if I smear one on me or am exposed to dry dead bees being swept up, I have a (mild) reaction. If I rub my eyes or neck when working bees, I get some irritation, discomfort and redness. I should mention here that there is considerable risk of serious respiratory damage to people working in close quarters with long-dead bees for periods of time . This happens when cleaning dry mouldy bees out of brood chambers of hives that die over winter or when sweeping up the floor in wintering buildings. Many molds quickly grow in the bodies of dead bees. There is a wide variety of mould that can be found, and some are extremely toxic or irritating to people. Even working outdoors does not necessarily eliminate the problem where large numbers of BCs are being processed. Wintering buildings and honey houses should be swept with caution, using either good masks or a vacuum cleaner system venting outdoors and away from people. allen Article 25358 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.slurp.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <393BB880.2FAC73F@adams.net> From: blacketer X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.51 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: hive in a tree References: <20000604081756.06462.00000536@ng-cq1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 32 Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 09:26:08 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.138.35.51 X-Trace: newsfeed.slurp.net 960214760 216.138.35.51 (Mon, 05 Jun 2000 09:19:20 CDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 09:19:20 CDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25358 well jim; my best method to how to make use of a bee tree, is to cut off the tree to a flat surface. then I will cover the bottom of the log or tree with a piece of old plywood, then I will do the same on the other end. the only difference is that the top end of the log you want to cut it off where the comb is at, thenplacxe you top piece of plywood with a hole in the middle of the board so that the bees will come up through it. you waant to anchor both pieces of plywood with either nails or dry-wall screws. they don't like for you to pound on their home that is why I use screws.after you anchor the top to the log you can add suppers or hive bodies. place a hole in one the suppers or hive body's and add you inner cover and lid. you will need to try to plug all other holes in the tree they are useing and then they will find the new way out. some time they will almost emmediately or in the very near furure they. they really like new wax. If you want to really stir them up you can cut the tree up in to chunks and slowly remove the wax and place it in empty frames, you will need the tie it in the frames with a fine wire and pins or nails. then place these frames in a box and gently let the bees move in. sit it beside them and they should go to it. make sure their is no othwer hives close by because you will have the thieves out form other hives. hope that this will help you carl. JPA555 wrote: > I'm a new beekeeper been doing it a little over a year, I have 5 hives in CT > last friday we had a bad storm and a big oak tree fell not far from me there is > a huge honey bee hive in the trunk, the trunk split wide open you can see all > the comb all the bees there is loads of old comb and new comb, The people want > to save the bees and so do I they said that as long as they lived there ther > was a hive in that tree (30 years) How can I get this into a hive body? .... > I don't know if the queen made it through the fall, I'll probly get the heck > stung out of me but I think it is worth, they must be a good wintering bee > stock and I would love to get the bees out of there plus the experance of doing > something like this I would love to hear any coments of what you would do. > Thanks Jim Article 25359 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!attmtf!att542!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: hive in a tree Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 08:11:06 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 22 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust173.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8hgbti$om$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <20000604081756.06462.00000536@ng-cq1.aol.com> <393a7329.78970725@news1.radix.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust173.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25359 > >was a hive in that tree (30 years) How can I get this into a hive body? .... > >I don't know if the queen made it through the fall, I'll probly get the heck > >stung out of me but I think it is worth, they must be a good wintering bee... Barry has drawings for a special frame for holding wild comb at his site http://www.beesource.com I'm not sure exactly where on the site -- you'll have to hunt a bit, but it is a great site to prowl around anyhow. allen -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Thousands served... Article 25360 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!feeder.qis.net!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!attmtf!att541!att542!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stupid Question from Beginner > Are My Bees Dead Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 08:35:37 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 17 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust173.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8hgdbg$2kh$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <8efrls$pc0$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <8h9fcp$rk5$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> <8hc2kh$5i9$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <8hensf$ikl$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust173.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25360 > My own preference is for baker's fondant, a mixture of powdered sugar (not > icing sugar which has additives) and glucose; it is used by bakers to cover > cakes, comes in 12.5kg blocks, and can be used for feeding at any time of > the year simply by cutting off a lump and placing it over the colony. Our experience (one year and one yard) with fondant is that it may prevent starving, but is ignored by the bees if there is anything else handy to eat. allen -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Article 25361 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!attmtf!att541!att542!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Light, Heat and Location Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 08:42:48 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 22 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust173.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8hgdou$2t8$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <8hensh$ikl$2@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk> <20000605010230.09704.00001101@ng-mf1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust173.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25361 > >2. Good air drainage in winter - avoid frost pockets. > > Absolutely vital. Frost pockets can be MUCH colder than areas with good air > drainage.> At the Ontario pollination meeting Dr. Mayer showed a slide of pallets of hives on pollination in Washington State that were set up about four feet off the ground (on a stack of pallets, as I recall). BTW, if you ever get a chance to hear that guy speak, don't miss it. The reason was that the ground was cold and the bees were much warmer up higher and consequently got to work earlier. In my country, I wonder how much of this effect would be offset by the wind. I do know however, that we have never been abler to successfully winter singles unless we set them on an empty hive body with an inner cover to look like a double -- then they winter fine. allen Article 25362 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bobpursley@aol.com (Bob Pursley) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Texas Swarm Corrected Repost Lines: 31 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 05 Jun 2000 16:44:37 GMT References: <8hg9t3$vdc$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000605124437.22680.00001911@ng-cr1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25362 > >I read the rec.gardens forum and a post was sent from TX about a >swarm. Seems someone called the fire department about the swarm in his >backyard. The dept. killed the swarm. Most posted they were amazed >they were killed. He seems to think most beekeepers in TX won't take a >swarm due to diesease and not knowing if they are african bees. > >If you are near Mission TX and would be interested in being contacted >his email is: hotdog5919@my-deja.com. > >He says there are several swarms in his area each year. Here is a correction. I was up too late last nite. Sorry. Mission Tx is in the heart of AHB (Arficanized honey bees) territory. When you try to gather an AHB swarm, they are NOT docile, and guess who gets sued? AHB are not like the European HBee.. When I was a kid, you could carry swarms on a stick, but you cant even come close that that with AHB. Anyone want to try a bee beard? It doesnt surprise me they were killed, in a residential area, that would be the advice I would give, especially If I were called to testify in a court case. The evidence of violent attack is too compelling to ignore, especially for those who are supposed be knowledgable about bees. Frankly, these bees should NOT be kept in residential areas. Somebody kill my previous post, goodness, AFB. .... Article 25363 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: mrezac@hotmail.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Texas Swarm Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 16:07:55 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 42 Message-ID: <8hgj8d$6rg$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <8hg9t3$vdc$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <20000605095904.23290.00001275@nso-fy.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 198.144.76.109 X-Article-Creation-Date: Mon Jun 05 16:07:55 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 4.01; Windows 98) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x66.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 198.144.76.109 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDmrezac Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25363 What is AFB? In article <20000605095904.23290.00001275@nso-fy.aol.com>, bobpursley@aol.com (Bob Pursley) wrote: > In article <8hg9t3$vdc$1@nnrp1.deja.com>, mrezac@hotmail.com writes: > > > > >I read the rec.gardens forum and a post was sent from TX about a > >swarm. Seems someone called the fire department about the swarm in his > >backyard. The dept. killed the swarm. Most posted they were amazed > >they were killed. He seems to think most beekeepers in TX won't take a > >swarm due to diesease and not knowing if they are african bees. > > > >If you are near Mission TX and would be interested in being contacted > >his email is: hotdog5919@my-deja.com. > > > > Mission Tx is in the heart of AFB territory. When you try to gather an AFB > swarm, they are NOT docile, and guess who gets sued? AFB are not like the > European HBee.. When I was a kid, you could carry swarms on a stick, but you > cant even come close that that with AFB. Anyone want to try a bee beard? It > doesnt surprise me they were killed, in a residential area, that would be the > advice I would give, especially If I were called to testify in a court case. > The evidence of violent attack is too compelling to ignore, especially for > those who are supposed be knowledgable about bees. Frankly, these bees should > NOT be kept in residential areas. > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25364 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!cyclone.swbell.net!bos-service1.ext.raytheon.com!bos-service2.ext.raytheon.com!not-for-mail Message-ID: <393BFA3C.EE3D33EE@raytheon.com> From: "Larry S. Farris" Reply-To: lsfarris@raytheon.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en,ru MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Texas Swarm Corrected Repost References: <8hg9t3$vdc$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <20000605124437.22680.00001911@ng-cr1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 18 Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 14:06:36 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 138.126.254.210 X-Complaints-To: news@ext.ray.com X-Trace: bos-service2.ext.raytheon.com 960231800 138.126.254.210 (Mon, 05 Jun 2000 15:03:20 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 15:03:20 EDT Organization: Raytheon Company Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25364 Bob Pursley wrote: > Mission Tx is in the heart of AHB (Arficanized honey bees) territory. > It doesnt surprise me they were killed, in a residential area, that would be the > advice I would give... Bob's point is well taken. If you collect feral swarms in an AHB area, it's just a matter of time before you bring back to your home apiary more than you bargained for. Sometime this week, I will write the local Fire Departments and Animal Control Offices and ask them to remove my name from the list of beekeepers who are willing to go out and capture wild swarms on people's property. I see no further reason to run the risk of bringing back an AHB swarm to my home. It's sad, because I always liked collecting swarms. But for a hobbyist beekeeper, the ground rules have changed in AHB areas of the south and southwest. IMHO, now the best advice is to recommend destroying the swarms. Article 25365 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: mrezac@hotmail.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Texas Swarm Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 13:28:20 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 16 Message-ID: <8hg9t3$vdc$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 198.144.79.95 X-Article-Creation-Date: Mon Jun 05 13:28:20 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 4.01; Windows 98) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x67.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 198.144.79.95 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDmrezac Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25365 I read the rec.gardens forum and a post was sent from TX about a swarm. Seems someone called the fire department about the swarm in his backyard. The dept. killed the swarm. Most posted they were amazed they were killed. He seems to think most beekeepers in TX won't take a swarm due to diesease and not knowing if they are african bees. If you are near Mission TX and would be interested in being contacted his email is: hotdog5919@my-deja.com. He says there are several swarms in his area each year. Melodie Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25366 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!grolier!club-internet!not-for-mail From: peter dillon Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: medical propolis Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 00:45:05 +0200 Organization: Club-Internet (France) Lines: 14 Message-ID: <393C2D71.43F7D348@club-internet.fr> References: <8hef1a$6jd$2@lure.pipex.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp-44-28-214.wmar.club-internet.fr Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: front4.grolier.fr 960245469 2818 213.44.28.214 (5 Jun 2000 22:51:09 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 5 Jun 2000 22:51:09 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win95; U) X-Accept-Language: en,en-US,fr-CA,fr-FR Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25366 Relating to propolis,
When cleaning supers during the winter period, constant contact with propolis dust and squashed material in between first finger and thumb causes the skin to crack, but the most annoying area is around the waist as the dust passes through the material making up my jumper and shirt. Even tried wearing a beesuit- still get the red itchy skin symptoms.The skin dries, peels and then recovers.
Peter Article 25367 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsflash.concordia.ca!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!ionews.ionet.net!not-for-mail From: "TJ" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Wanting to Swarm Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 22:33:54 -0500 Organization: ioNET Inc. Lines: 7 Message-ID: <8hhr4g$2jq$1@ionews.ionet.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp246.viagrafix.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25367 I have about 2 weeks ago requeen a colony. Even now they seem to still want to swarm as before. They have a empty super on them and it seem to be enough room for them. They still have one super only probably 50% filled out. Any ideas? Article 25368 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!bignews.mediaways.net!diablo.theplanet.net!skynet.be!newsfeed1.funet.fi!newsfeeds.funet.fi!nntp.inet.fi!central.inet.fi!inet.fi!read2.inet.fi.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Seppo.Korpela@mtt.fi (Seppo Korpela) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Apitherapy Info or Sites? Message-ID: <393d1744.36026029@news.inet.fi> References: <23155-393D0B47-20@storefull-613.iap.bryant.webtv.net> X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.11/32.235 Lines: 9 Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 15:21:38 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 193.208.146.48 X-Trace: read2.inet.fi 960304898 193.208.146.48 (Tue, 06 Jun 2000 18:21:38 EET DST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 18:21:38 EET DST Organization: Sonera corp Internet services Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25368 LateNiteOwl@webtv.net (Owl That Hurt!!) wrote: >Hello, >I thought maybe this would bee the place that might have some >information or maybe know of some sites on Apitherapy. If you do please >e-mail me, I don't know if I'll find my way back here. Thanks in >advance. See: http://www.saunalahti.fi/~apither/ Article 25369 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.nero.net!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: hot knife VS plane ??? Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 15:12:40 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 4 Message-ID: <393D7757.5E5B3FE2@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 960329580 29615 129.101.81.41 (6 Jun 2000 22:13:00 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 6 Jun 2000 22:13:00 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25369 Which is better and why for uncapping. I've only used the hot knife method. Thanks Matthew Article 25370 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newspush.london1.eu.level3.net!level3eu!newspeer.highwayone.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stupid Question from Beginner > Are My Bees Dead Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 23:25:26 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 14 Message-ID: <8hjutt$llu$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <8efrls$pc0$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <8h9fcp$rk5$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> <8hc2kh$5i9$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <8hensf$ikl$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk> <8hgdbg$2kh$1@news.smartworld.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-110.carbon.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk 960331517 22206 62.136.5.110 (6 Jun 2000 22:45:17 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 6 Jun 2000 22:45:17 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25370 "Allen Dick" wrote in message news:8hgdbg$2kh$1@news.smartworld.net... > Our experience (one year and one yard) with fondant is that it may prevent > starving, but is ignored by the bees if there is anything else handy to eat. > > allen ---------------------------------- Yes, this is another advantage as it will no end up in your honey if placed above the colony. Article 25371 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Newbie Lines: 6 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 06 Jun 2000 21:17:28 GMT References: <3937F7BE.D28B675B@flash.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000606171728.18435.00003930@ng-cg1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25371 Sounds ok so far, but why did you remove the one frame from the brood box? I have heard it recommended that when installing a package, a frame or two should be removed to create a space to dump the bees in, but then the frames should be put back before closing the hive up to avoid a burr comb mess. Cheers, John Article 25372 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!128.230.129.106!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: rec01rec@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: division feeder loc and upper entr hole size Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 22:50:40 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 13 Message-ID: <8hjv7p$pjn$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.147.175.138 X-Article-Creation-Date: Tue Jun 06 22:50:40 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; Windows 98; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x65.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 24.147.175.138 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDrec01rec Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25372 Two questions: 1. Does it matter where the division feeder goes in the hive? 2. If I am going to drill a hole in the upper brood for the winter how big should it be? Thanks, Ron Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25373 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!not-for-mail From: "David Smith" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Skep to hive? Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 23:41:16 +0100 Organization: UUNET WorldCom server (post doesn't reflect views of UUNET WorldCom Lines: 8 Message-ID: <8hjukn$d1g$1@lure.pipex.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: userfg66.uk.uudial.com X-Trace: lure.pipex.net 960331223 13360 62.188.22.68 (6 Jun 2000 22:40:23 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uk.uu.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 6 Jun 2000 22:40:23 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25373 I have a swarm in a skep that I would like to reintroduce to the bees in my hive but I don't know where to begin. Can anyone offer advice? The bees have been in the skep for about 4 weeks now. Thanks Dave Article 25374 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newspush.london1.eu.level3.net!level3eu!newspeer.highwayone.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: hive in a tree Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 23:44:02 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 36 Message-ID: <8hjutv$llu$2@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <20000604081756.06462.00000536@ng-cq1.aol.com> <393a7329.78970725@news1.radix.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-110.carbon.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk 960331519 22206 62.136.5.110 (6 Jun 2000 22:45:19 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 6 Jun 2000 22:45:19 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25374 wrote in message news:393a7329.78970725@news1.radix.net... Take regular hive > bodies with frames but no foundation, a bottom board, inner cover, and > a top. A box or rubber bands or string is also needed. Carefully cut > the combs so that the fit into the frames and hold them in place with > the rubberbands. Put each frame in the hive as you go ----------------------------- Can I suggest what I find is a better way? Cutting the combs and trying to fit them into frames is very messy, loses at least some of the brood - and does not give you very good, or straight, combs for all your work. My method is: Place a brood box with drawn combs on a floor and place a queen excluder on top and then an empty brood box. (If the swarm is large, you may wish to add honey supers between the bottom box and the empty box). Take the wild combs and shake or brush the bees down in front of your hive so that the bees run in on to the good combs. Prop the wild combs in the empty box on the excluder so that the bees are able to get to all of the brood (use small twigs as supports if necessary - but there is no need to try to put the combs in tidily); when the box is full, add another excluder and empty box; continue until all the comb has been housed. What will now happen is that the queen will establish herself in the bottom box, the brood will all emerge from the wild comb within 3 weeks and you can then remove it. This really works very well and is quick and easy to do. Article 25375 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!europa.netcrusader.net!208.184.7.66!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!24.92.226.72!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <393DAE17.42042E99@cornell.edu> From: JGinNY Reply-To: jwg6@cornell.edu X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: hot knife VS plane ??? References: <393D7757.5E5B3FE2@uidaho.edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 32 Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 02:01:19 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.237.121 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 960343279 24.92.237.121 (Tue, 06 Jun 2000 22:01:19 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 22:01:19 EDT Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25375 IME the plane is easier on the wrist, and so somewhat easier to use. However, it takes two passes if you are uncapping deep combs. The knife, on the other hand, has its own advantages. One swipe can uncap a deep comb. Also, you can run it down across the top and bottom bars to zip off the burr comb -- hard to do with a plane. Also, you can make a deeper cut with a knife (running it flush against the top/bottom bars). Knives usually have a temp. control, which will keep them from overheating when left idle for a few minutes. The planes (or the ones I have seen and used) don't have that feature, and if you aren't constantly uncappipng, the honey on the blade will bubble and burn. However, some sort of control might be added, on the line from the power source, to solve that problem. The easiest way to use a plane is to lay the comb flat (such as on 2 narrow slats or top-bars tacked across the uncapping tub), so that one of the end-bars is facing you. Then, starting at the opposite end-bar, draw the plane towards you, across the comb. Easier and faster than a regular long-knife, esp. if the comb is a bit tough. Btw, these comments pertain to electric knives/planes. Never tried any steam versions! --j Matthew Pollard wrote: > Which is better and why for uncapping. I've only used the hot knife > method. Thanks > Matthew Article 25376 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-feed.fnsi.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Wanting to Swarm Message-ID: References: <8hhr4g$2jq$1@ionews.ionet.net> X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.30.1784 Lines: 11 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 00:53:50 EDT Organization: WebUseNet Corp http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 21:50:28 -0700 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25376 In article <8hhr4g$2jq$1@ionews.ionet.net>, terjoh54@hotmail.com says... > I have about 2 weeks ago requeen a colony. Even now they seem to still want > to swarm as before. They have a empty super on them and it seem to be > enough room for them. They still have one super only probably 50% filled > out. > Any ideas? > > > TBH Article 25377 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!europa.netcrusader.net!152.163.239.131!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? Lines: 1 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 06 Jun 2000 06:51:39 GMT References: <393a3243.62355968@news1.radix.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000606025139.01389.00001606@ng-fz1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25377 ouch! Article 25378 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-feed.fnsi.net!newsfeed.icl.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 20:54:28 +0100 Message-ID: References: <20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com> <8h9fcr$rk5$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 960281617 nnrp-01:28328 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 13 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25378 In article <8h9fcr$rk5$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk>, Peter Edwards writes snip >The important point is that without beekeepers there would certainly be >very few bees and it is worrying that the numbers of beekeepers has declined >dramatically since the onset of varroa; we are down to a core of experienced >beekeepers who, by working hard, are coping with varroa. and the number increases after 2-3 years of decline and ends up higher with more productivity if we follow European experience. New beekeepers learn the new approaches needed and the older ones left are the ones who adapted to varroa. -- James Kilty Article 25379 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!newsfeed.icl.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How long before new queen does her thing Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 21:04:49 +0100 Message-ID: <4mS$zMAhZrO5Ew59@kilty.demon.co.uk> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 960281619 nnrp-01:28328 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 13 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25379 In article , Geoff Aucklland writes >So how long does it take for the new queen to start to lay? >My hives swarmed nearly 4 weeks ago and there is still no sign of brood or >eggs despite lots of bees and active foraging. I never can find the queen so >the fact that I haven't found her is of no help. If pollen is coming in there is a queen. You are getting near the end of the usual time span in which she can mate and lay. Give her another week and then if there are no eggs, you have problems with an unmated queen. Then you have the choice to requeen some way or other. Someone will suggest a way to deal with this. -- James Kilty Article 25380 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!newsfeed.stanford.edu!paloalto-snf1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!webtv.net!not-for-mail From: LateNiteOwl@webtv.net (Owl That Hurt!!) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Apitherapy Info or Sites? Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 10:31:35 -0400 (EDT) Organization: WebTV Subscriber Lines: 6 Message-ID: <23155-393D0B47-20@storefull-613.iap.bryant.webtv.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAtAhRr2dbbK1tKIXxUctSfltnuZYVIrgIVAJpsuqHQeKksGQp9v4ulB1nmux2b Content-Disposition: Inline Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25380 Hello, I thought maybe this would bee the place that might have some information or maybe know of some sites on Apitherapy. If you do please e-mail me, I don't know if I'll find my way back here. Thanks in advance. Article 25381 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.enteract.com!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!news.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "Dusty Bleher" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: A bit of info, please Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 09:06:41 -0700 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 25 Message-ID: X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25381 Hi all; Just a couple of questions: 1) In the "old days" we just cut the caps off the comb to release the honey. How do you it with these "modern" new plastic comb foundations? Do I pop out the comb, and use a knife to cut off the comb right at the base? Or do I just cap it and extract in the conventional manner? 2) Several months back there was a good discussion on smoking, and materials to use for good cool smoke. I seem to have lost those references, and a Deja search was pretty sparse. Could anybody remind me of the upshot of those discussions? IIRC; burlap was pretty well acknowledged to be among the best materials. Unfortunately, it's kind of hard to find around here. I had neglected to note what other materials folks were using... In particular, someone had mentioned a pressed cotton block (I think). Any names so I could research it?? TIA, Dusty Bleher San Jose, Ca. Article 25382 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.nero.net!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: division feeder loc and upper entr hole size Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 09:12:21 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 21 Message-ID: <393E7465.42AEE534@uidaho.edu> References: <8hjv7p$pjn$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: faraday.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 960394806 21091 129.101.81.112 (7 Jun 2000 16:20:06 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 7 Jun 2000 16:20:06 GMT To: rec01rec@my-deja.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25382 i just got some free used hive bodies and about 1/3 of them have holes- about 5/8" drilled on an uphill slant so water won't run in. then they had a little piece of tin hanging over them so you can close them when not being used. -M rec01rec@my-deja.com wrote: > Two questions: > > 1. Does it matter where the division feeder goes in the hive? > 2. If I am going to drill a hole in the upper brood for the winter how > big should it be? > > Thanks, > > Ron > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Before you buy. Article 25383 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!verio.MISMATCH!iad-peer.news.verio.net!news.verio.net!dfw-read.news.verio.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Reply-To: "Charles W." From: "Charles W." Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Lines: 52 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 13:13:10 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.96.184.188 X-Complaints-To: abuse@verio.net X-Trace: dfw-read.news.verio.net 960401592 204.96.184.188 (Wed, 07 Jun 2000 18:13:12 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 18:13:12 GMT Organization: Verio Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25383 I'm just a novice myself, but in answer to your first question ... I've not heard of any foundation (plastic or otherwise) that the bees did not have to draw out with their own wax. Therefore, when it comes extracting time, you treat them the same as any other. The cappings must be removed exactly the same with the use of any type foundation. Having plastic in the middle of the comb just provides strength ... used instead of embedding wires in the old pure wax foundation. As for question number 2 ... I'd like to know myself what common everyday materials provide good smoker fuel. I agree that burlap is sometimes difficult to find and I don't like the idea of having to buy special smoker fuel from a bee supplier. Any info on this would be appreciated. Charles Georgetown, TX Dusty Bleher wrote in message news:sjsso4kj2t585@news.supernews.com... > Hi all; > > Just a couple of questions: > 1) In the "old days" we just cut the caps off the comb to release the honey. > How do you it with these "modern" new plastic comb foundations? Do I pop out > the comb, and use a knife to cut off the comb right at the base? Or do I just > cap it and extract in the conventional manner? > > 2) Several months back there was a good discussion on smoking, and materials > to use for good cool smoke. I seem to have lost those references, and a Deja > search was pretty sparse. Could anybody remind me of the upshot of those > discussions? IIRC; burlap was pretty well acknowledged to be among the best > materials. Unfortunately, it's kind of hard to find around here. I had > neglected to note what other materials folks were using... In particular, > someone had mentioned a pressed cotton block (I think). Any names so I could > research it?? > > TIA, > Dusty Bleher > San Jose, Ca. > > > > > Article 25384 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!feed1.news.rcn.net!rcn!not-for-mail From: Mark Gaylord Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 14:20:36 -0400 Lines: 55 Message-ID: <393E9274.446C0BE2@formida.com> References: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fm5depECw3/zTrMNF/AcQhKhMX6F5GLupUiNKA2SDfNI0d2YTWF1EA== X-Complaints-To: abuse@rcn.com NNTP-Posting-Date: 7 Jun 2000 18:33:08 GMT X-Accept-Language: en X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.61 [en] (WinNT; I) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25384 dry pine needles work great. "Charles W." wrote: > I'm just a novice myself, but in answer to your first question ... I've not > heard of any foundation (plastic or otherwise) that the bees did not have to > draw out with their own wax. Therefore, when it comes extracting time, you > treat them the same as any other. The cappings must be removed exactly the > same with the use of any type foundation. Having plastic in the middle of > the comb just provides strength ... used instead of embedding wires in the > old pure wax foundation. > > As for question number 2 ... I'd like to know myself what common everyday > materials provide good smoker fuel. I agree that burlap is sometimes > difficult to find and I don't like the idea of having to buy special smoker > fuel from a bee supplier. Any info on this would be appreciated. > > Charles > Georgetown, TX > > Dusty Bleher wrote in message > news:sjsso4kj2t585@news.supernews.com... > > Hi all; > > > > Just a couple of questions: > > 1) In the "old days" we just cut the caps off the comb to release the > honey. > > How do you it with these "modern" new plastic comb foundations? Do I pop > out > > the comb, and use a knife to cut off the comb right at the base? Or do I > just > > cap it and extract in the conventional manner? > > > > 2) Several months back there was a good discussion on smoking, and > materials > > to use for good cool smoke. I seem to have lost those references, and a > Deja > > search was pretty sparse. Could anybody remind me of the upshot of those > > discussions? IIRC; burlap was pretty well acknowledged to be among the > best > > materials. Unfortunately, it's kind of hard to find around here. I had > > neglected to note what other materials folks were using... In particular, > > someone had mentioned a pressed cotton block (I think). Any names so I > could > > research it?? > > > > TIA, > > Dusty Bleher > > San Jose, Ca. > > > > > > > > > > Article 25385 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!news.mtu.edu!not-for-mail From: Timothy C. Eisele Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: bears and bacon and electricity Date: 7 Jun 2000 20:55:33 GMT Organization: Michigan Technological University Lines: 36 Message-ID: <8hmcs5$g89$1@campus3.mtu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: hornet.my.mtu.edu X-Trace: campus3.mtu.edu 960411333 16649 141.219.67.30 (7 Jun 2000 20:55:33 GMT) X-Complaints-To: news@mtu.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 7 Jun 2000 20:55:33 GMT X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX IT-DCS binary version 970321; sun4u SunOS 5.7] Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25385 Well, there's been a bear sniffing around my hives lately, and I learned a valuable lesson: don't skimp on the electric fence. Originally, I'd just had two strands of wire, with a single strand for the gate (this was the type of fence that the person I'd bought my nucs from last year had for his yards). About a month ago, a yearling bear apparently squeezed between the wires and ate about 2 frames worth of honey before taking off. (luckily, all he did was knock over one super, and make the colony mad as hell, without much actual damage. I got off pretty cheap this time). So, I went more-or-less ape with the electric fence, increasing it to four strands (spaced about 6 inches apart), added two more strands of wire to the gate, and draped about a pound of raw bacon over all the wires. That evening, around 10:00, I went out to check again. There, sitting about 15 feet from the fence, was the bear, looking at the hives with a mournful expression. We yelled at him until he took off, and didn't see him again until just today, when my wife spotted him coming away from the direction of the hives. The fence apparently repulsed him yet again, but it would probably be a good idea to refresh the bacon on the wires. So, thanks very much to all the people who suggested draping the fence with raw bacon (or other conductive baits). It seems to work extremely well against bears (and maybe coyotes, too. A couple of nights ago we heard a coyote yiping his fool head off from the general direction of the hives, I think he tried for some bacon). Just one question, though: how often should I refresh the bacon? Every two weeks or so? Or should I just replace it as it gradually disappears from insects and birds eating it? -- Tim Eisele tceisele@mtu.edu Article 25386 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!nycmny1-snh1.gtei.net!nyc-news-feed1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!colt.net!diablo.theplanet.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!not-for-mail From: "Pamela Buckle" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 23:02:15 +0100 Organization: UUNET WorldCom server (post doesn't reflect views of UUNET WorldCom Lines: 31 Message-ID: <8hmh5h$74u$3@lure.pipex.net> References: <20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com> <393a3243.62355968@news1.radix.net> <8hensj$ikl$4@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: userdr48.uk.uudial.com X-Trace: lure.pipex.net 960415729 7326 62.188.6.55 (7 Jun 2000 22:08:49 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uk.uu.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 7 Jun 2000 22:08:49 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25386 For the record, Peter, in the accusative case, I is spelt ME. Let's get it right! Martin. Peter Edwards wrote in message news:8hensj$ikl$4@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk... > > > I think the biggest threat is someone teaching our children made up > > words like pollinize! > > > > beekeep > > Very true, but even beekeepers (who should know better!) frequently use > incorrect terminology as a glance through recent postings will readily > prove. For example, the use of 'hive' to describe a colony of bees in a > tree! > > For the record: > > Bees carry pollen from the anthers of a 'polliniser' (the plant that > supplies the pollen) and 'pollinate' a flower by depositing the pollen on > the stigma. The pollen may then 'fertilise' the flower. > > The plants will, of course, be 'polliniferous' (i.e. bearing pollen). > > Another good word for Scrabble addicts is 'pollinosis' - hay fever to you or > I. > > Article 25387 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!join.news.pipex.net!pipex!grot.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!not-for-mail From: "Pamela Buckle" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Allergies Associated With Beekeeping Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 22:47:35 +0100 Organization: UUNET WorldCom server (post doesn't reflect views of UUNET WorldCom Lines: 47 Message-ID: <8hmh5g$74u$2@lure.pipex.net> References: <8hef1a$6jd$2@lure.pipex.net> <8hgcnv$1ut$1@news.smartworld.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: userdr48.uk.uudial.com X-Trace: lure.pipex.net 960415728 7326 62.188.6.55 (7 Jun 2000 22:08:48 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uk.uu.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 7 Jun 2000 22:08:48 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25387 Allen Dick wrote in message FWIW, I am allergic to bees and I run 3,000 > hives. > > "What?", you say. > > No, I'm not allergic to stings, they hardly cause a welt -- usually. > > I am allergic to the bees themselves. That is okay as long as they are > whole and running around, but if I smear one on me or am exposed to dry dead > bees being swept up, I have a (mild) reaction. If I rub my eyes or neck > when working bees, I get some irritation, discomfort and redness. > > I should mention here that there is considerable risk of serious respiratory > damage to people working in close quarters with long-dead bees for periods > of time . This happens when cleaning dry mouldy bees out of brood chambers > of hives that die over winter or when sweeping up the floor in wintering > buildings. Many molds quickly grow in the bodies of dead bees. There is a > wide variety of mould that can be found, and some are extremely toxic or > irritating to people. > > Even working outdoors does not necessarily eliminate the problem where large > numbers of BCs are being processed. > > Wintering buildings and honey houses should be swept with caution, using > either good masks or a vacuum cleaner system venting outdoors and away from > people. > allen Many thanks, Allen, plenty of good advice in that and I shall test myself with crushed bee to see if I missed an important item from my allergy check. The mould spore thing is much like 'Farmer's Lung' which follows handling mouldy hay and breathing in the (mainly Aspergillus) spores. Some beekeepers who think they have asthma might be suffering from mould spore inhalation. Martin. Article 25388 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: Glenn West Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Newbie Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 20:35:55 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 5 Message-ID: <8hmbn9$hvs$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <3937F7BE.D28B675B@flash.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.228.142.1 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 07 20:35:55 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.01; Windows 98; EDS COE v2000.1) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x61.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 199.228.142.1 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDwestxga Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25388 I'm curious as to why you treated pkg bees. Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25389 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!peerfeed.news.psi.net!jump.innerx.net!basement Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping From: Why@me.com (SomeOne) Subject: Maxant Chain Decapper X-Newsreader: News Xpress 2.01 Lines: 7 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 21:49:12 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 38.27.162.169 X-Trace: jump.innerx.net 960414858 38.27.162.169 (Wed, 07 Jun 2000 17:54:18 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 17:54:18 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25389 I purchased a used Maxant decapper. No paper work came with the product but Maxant was VERY kind in sending me the instructions at no charge. The only hassle I have is fine tuning the chain flail. I know how to adjust the depth of the chains, but I don't know to what depth would work best. Comments from those who actually USE this device would be more than welcome. Article 25390 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!195.92.193.196!diablo.theplanet.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!not-for-mail From: "Pamela Buckle" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 23:15:33 +0100 Organization: UUNET WorldCom server (post doesn't reflect views of UUNET WorldCom Lines: 80 Message-ID: <8hmhta$7sm$1@lure.pipex.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: userdy05.uk.uudial.com X-Trace: lure.pipex.net 960416490 8086 62.188.8.197 (7 Jun 2000 22:21:30 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uk.uu.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 7 Jun 2000 22:21:30 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25390 Fuels: I have for many years used corrugated cardboard rolled into fat 'cigars' to fit the smoker. But now recycling is taking on and cardboard seems to have developed some pretty acrid additives, I am using grass. When a rotary mower has smashed the grass and it has dried on the lawn a couple of days, gather it, spread to dry under cover, and then it makes nice smelling easy smoke. A friend swears by rotted powdery wood from fallen trees and collects this to store for future use. Watching me light my smoker, some other beekeepers at a meeting said they had never thought of lying the smoker on its side to start it, but this works well and saves a lot of burnt fingers. I use narrow strips torn from the edge of a folded newspaper as kindling. Martin MK,UK. Charles W. wrote in message news:Ygw%4.35566$5k2.62964@dfw-read.news.verio.net... > I'm just a novice myself, but in answer to your first question ... I've not > heard of any foundation (plastic or otherwise) that the bees did not have to > draw out with their own wax. Therefore, when it comes extracting time, you > treat them the same as any other. The cappings must be removed exactly the > same with the use of any type foundation. Having plastic in the middle of > the comb just provides strength ... used instead of embedding wires in the > old pure wax foundation. > > As for question number 2 ... I'd like to know myself what common everyday > materials provide good smoker fuel. I agree that burlap is sometimes > difficult to find and I don't like the idea of having to buy special smoker > fuel from a bee supplier. Any info on this would be appreciated. > > Charles > Georgetown, TX > > Dusty Bleher wrote in message > news:sjsso4kj2t585@news.supernews.com... > > Hi all; > > > > Just a couple of questions: > > 1) In the "old days" we just cut the caps off the comb to release the > honey. > > How do you it with these "modern" new plastic comb foundations? Do I pop > out > > the comb, and use a knife to cut off the comb right at the base? Or do I > just > > cap it and extract in the conventional manner? > > > > 2) Several months back there was a good discussion on smoking, and > materials > > to use for good cool smoke. I seem to have lost those references, and a > Deja > > search was pretty sparse. Could anybody remind me of the upshot of those > > discussions? IIRC; burlap was pretty well acknowledged to be among the > best > > materials. Unfortunately, it's kind of hard to find around here. I had > > neglected to note what other materials folks were using... In particular, > > someone had mentioned a pressed cotton block (I think). Any names so I > could > > research it?? > > > > TIA, > > Dusty Bleher > > San Jose, Ca. > > > > > > > > > > > > Article 25391 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 21:42:33 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 16 Message-ID: <393ec18f.2087150@news1.radix.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: p25.a1.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25391 On Wed, 7 Jun 2000 13:13:10 -0500, "Charles W." wrote: > >As for question number 2 ... I'd like to know myself what common everyday >materials provide good smoker fuel. I agree that burlap is sometimes >difficult to find and I don't like the idea of having to buy special smoker >fuel from a bee supplier. Any info on this would be appreciated. > >Charles >Georgetown, TX My favorite is holly planer shavings. Greg the beekeep Article 25392 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <393D7757.5E5B3FE2@uidaho.edu> <393DCAAF.2D781CF6@midwest.net> Subject: Re: hot knife VS plane ??? Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 18:10:35 -0500 Lines: 24 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.92 Message-ID: <393ed48c_1@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 7 Jun 2000 19:02:36 -0400, 208.24.176.92 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.92 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25392 I use a comb scraper I think it waist less wax it just scratches the caps open I have very little wax waist. However I only have 4 hives. Larry "AL" wrote in message news:393DCAAF.2D781CF6@midwest.net... > Matthew Pollard wrote: > > > > Which is better and why for uncapping. I've only used the hot knife > > method. Thanks > > Matthew > > > > This isn't exactly in keeping with the question, but I use an electric > carving knife. The reciprocating blades make a nice clean cut. Once the > uncapping/extracting is done, the blades are cleaned and put away for > holiday ham or turkey. > > > AL Article 25393 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Lines: 5 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 08 Jun 2000 01:23:32 GMT References: <393ec18f.2087150@news1.radix.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000607212332.16804.00002216@ng-fk1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25393 > >My favorite is holly planer shavings. > Yeah, Me too. Try Pine shavings. Article 25394 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Texas Swarm Corrected Repost Lines: 5 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 08 Jun 2000 01:40:37 GMT References: <393BFA3C.EE3D33EE@raytheon.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000607214037.16804.00002217@ng-fk1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25394 > But for a hobbyist beekeeper, the ground rules >have changed in AHB areas of the south and southwest. IMHO, now the >best advice is to recommend destroying the swarms. Very much agree! Article 25395 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: kent stienburg Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 21:55:32 -0400 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 3 Message-ID: <393EFD14.4FAFB62E@kingston.net> References: <393ec18f.2087150@news1.radix.net> <20000607212332.16804.00002216@ng-fk1.aol.com> Reply-To: beemann@kingston.net X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Sender: "kent stienburg" <@mail.kingston.net> (Unverified) X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.61 [en]C-CCK-MCD IKEzilla/2 (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25395 I use newspaper rolled tightly. Kent Article 25396 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: drezac@greenapple.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 11:14:18 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 36 Message-ID: <8hnv61$n88$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <8hmhta$7sm$1@lure.pipex.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 4.18.4.231 X-Article-Creation-Date: Thu Jun 08 11:14:18 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.01; Windows NT 5.0) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 PROXY2, 1.0 x57.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 4.18.4.231 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDdrezac Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25396 In article <8hmhta$7sm$1@lure.pipex.net>, "Pamela Buckle" wrote: > Fuels: I have for many years used corrugated cardboard rolled into fat > 'cigars' to fit > the smoker. But now recycling is taking on and cardboard seems to have > developed some pretty acrid additives, I am using grass. When a rotary > mower has smashed the grass and it has dried on the lawn a couple of days, > gather it, spread to dry under cover, and then it makes nice smelling easy > smoke. A friend swears by rotted powdery wood from fallen trees and collects > this to store for future use. > Watching me light my smoker, some other beekeepers at a meeting said they > had never thought of lying the smoker on its side to start it, but this > works well and saves a lot of burnt fingers. I use narrow strips torn from > the edge of a folded newspaper as kindling. > Martin MK,UK. > My son tried the dry grass a few weeks ago, but found that it burned too hot - it discolored the sides of his smoker (and he burned his finger on it also - he has never done this with the commercial fuel).. -- Duane L. Rezac drezac@greenapple.com www.greenapple.com/~drezac Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25397 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news.alt.net!wcoil.com!usenet From: tarheit@wcoil.com (Tim Arheit) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Date: 8 Jun 2000 16:02:27 GMT Lines: 24 Message-ID: <8hog2j$mg6$0@63.68.71.52> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: 63.68.71.52 X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.11/32.235 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25397 On Wed, 7 Jun 2000 09:06:41 -0700, "Dusty Bleher" wrote: >Hi all; > >2) Several months back there was a good discussion on smoking, and materials >to use for good cool smoke. I seem to have lost those references, and a Deja >search was pretty sparse. Could anybody remind me of the upshot of those >discussions? IIRC; burlap was pretty well acknowledged to be among the best >materials. Unfortunately, it's kind of hard to find around here. I had >neglected to note what other materials folks were using... In particular, >someone had mentioned a pressed cotton block (I think). Any names so I could >research it?? I use cedar shavings (sold with pet supplies). I put newspaper and a few shavings in the smoker. Then with the smoker on it's side light it with a propane torch with the push button start (overkill, but it starts up fast. I kept breaking the long lighters buy putting them in my back pocket then sitting on them.) Once it gets going good I stuff it with shavings. And I've found wadding up some newspaper in the top keeps you from blowin out embers and ashes. -Tim Article 25398 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!xmission!nnrp.xmission!not-for-mail From: D.F.S. Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Moving an established swarm? Date: 8 Jun 2000 16:23:15 GMT Organization: XMission http://www.xmission.com/ Lines: 118 Message-ID: <8hoh9j$6hr$1@news.xmission.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: xmission.xmission.com X-Trace: news.xmission.com 960481395 6715 198.60.22.20 (8 Jun 2000 16:23:15 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@xmission.com NNTP-Posting-Date: 8 Jun 2000 16:23:15 GMT X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 unoff BETA 970327; sun4m SunOS 5.7] Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25398 I have a swarm that has taken up residence in the brick column on my front porch. The home is 85 years old, and I think there is only one layer of hard brick in the ~2Ft square column and a hollow core. The bees are going thru spaces where the mortar has fallen out. the brik is loose enough I could easily remove a reasonable number. It does hold my roof up though. I don't know how long they have been there, as I usually don't use the front door and they could easilt have been there all spring. I do know they have been there at least a week. As a kid we had 2 hives we captured. One was established in an outbuilding we scraped out all the comb and bees, and put them in an empty hive. we moved it about 400 feet away. They stayed put, and also broke down the old comb and took to the new empty frames without problem. The other time we just shook a swarm into a box and that was all it took. The difference now is the hive may be harder to get to and remove all the comb and brood. Several open ended questions and statements in no real order. I just bought parts for a new hive. They are unused and the comb foundation is undrawn. I have a veil and gloves, but I'd like to use a pair of zip-up type thermal overalls which are dark tan. how big of a problem? I intend to remove the hive at night. Any advise on using a wet-dry shop vac to suck up the bees? Will treatment in this process impact the temperment of the hive? will it only impact currently living bees? should I spray the bees with something to stop them from flying, like water or maybe sugar water which may last longer and provide a diversion? should I try to confine the bees in the new hive? The farthest I can move the bees from the current location is about 300 ft. Is there a way to convince the bees to move into the hive in another way? something like placing the new hive by the entrance to the current one and using an attractand in the new hive? Is there a way to induce them to vacate the current hive, aka a "Stick" instead of the above "Carrot". Could I clip the wings on the queen in the new hive and prevent her from flying? Would this keep the rest of the hive from leaving? Is there a way to prevent a large number of bees from being able to fly with the intent being if I can keep a critical mass of the current colony in the new hive long enough for a new critical mass of hatchlings to develop who are perfectly happy with the new home? I'm thinking along the lines of a fine mist of spray adhesive or something to mess up the wing function. (Odd, I'll admit, but I'm stretching...) Would a week of "Rainy" weather provided by a sprinkler help to keep the colony homebound long enough to get established? I would hate to kill them outright. They also can't stay where they are. They seem pretty docile, they will ignore you standing 2-3 feet from the entrance unless you are in the current line of flight. Even then they buzz or some times fly into you, but I have yet to be stung. by the same token I have not "Messed" with them yet either. The move will be a severe messin'. Should I expect the temperment to change a lot? At any given instant in the daytime, there are probably 2-300 bees in flight within 4' of the hive or in the process of entering or leaving the hive. Does this say anything about how large or established the hive may be? Ideas or pointers? I have clearly missed the time to move them before they get established. as such would I be better off making sure there is a fair bit of comb and brood in the hive which could be placed in the new hive to entice them to stay? I could leave them in place for a while while this happens if there is a real advantage. Thanks. Marc Article 25399 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.algonet.se!algonet!newsfeed.wirehub.nl!diablo.theplanet.net!europa.netcrusader.net!152.163.239.131!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jpa555@aol.com (JPA555) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: hive in a tree Lines: 6 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 07 Jun 2000 03:57:14 GMT References: <393BB880.2FAC73F@adams.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000606235714.25089.00001088@ng-me1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25399 Well I would of done that when I got the call I thought about that method but when I got there and found out the tree was 3 1/2 feet in diamater that method was tossed out I did manage to get the whole hive in a hive body and it is in my back yard UI will go in next week to check for a queen I still don't know if she made it through the fall... thank you all for your info. Jim Article 25400 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Mark Hale" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Apimondia 2001 Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 17:03:48 +0200 Lines: 27 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 NNTP-Posting-Host: rst-dial-196-2-26-186.mweb.co.za Message-ID: <393de213.0@news1.mweb.co.za> X-Trace: 7 Jun 2000 07:48:03 +0200, rst-dial-196-2-26-186.mweb.co.za Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!iafrica.com!news1.mweb.co.za!rst-dial-196-2-26-186.mweb.co.za Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25400 Hi All This is to inform all bee farmers and any one else with an interest in the bee industrie, that the 2001 Apimondia Congress is being held in Durban, South Africa from 2nd to 6th September 2001. Visit our website at: http://www.apimondia2001.com e-mail: confplan@iafrica.com Exihibitors can contact : mwthebee@mweb.co.za or saronde@su.org.za Tel: +27 (0) 12 667-3681 Fax: +27 (0) 12 667-3680 PO Box 82 Irene 0062 South Africa Regards Mark Hale From not so dark Africa Hosts Apimondia 2001 Article 25401 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.algonet.se!algonet!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Skep to hive? Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 23:59:08 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 25 Message-ID: <8hko22$86e$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <8hjukn$d1g$1@lure.pipex.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-212.beryllium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news6.svr.pol.co.uk 960357250 8398 62.136.3.212 (7 Jun 2000 05:54:10 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 7 Jun 2000 05:54:10 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25401 The principle is to get the queen in a brood box and then put the skep on top with a queen excluder in between; you will then need an empty brood box or two to go around the skep until all the brood in there has hatched - 3 weeks - and you can remove the skep. You may wish to put a super or two in between the brood box and the skep to take any incoming honey. The old way to remove bees from a skep (into an empty skep) was to turn it upside down, prop the empty one on top and then 'drum' on the sides of the bottom one with your hands (one beat approx every half second). You could try this with a brood box supported over the upturned skep; or you may be able to shake to bees out of the skep (danger of shaking out the combs!), or you may find it easier to drive them out with carefully directed smoke. "David Smith" wrote in message news:8hjukn$d1g$1@lure.pipex.net... > I have a swarm in a skep that I would like to reintroduce to the bees in my > hive but I don't know where to begin. Can anyone offer advice? The bees > have been in the skep for about 4 weeks now. > > Thanks > Dave > > Article 25402 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.algonet.se!algonet!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: hot knife VS plane ??? Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 00:00:30 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 10 Message-ID: <8hko27$86e$2@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <393D7757.5E5B3FE2@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-212.beryllium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news6.svr.pol.co.uk 960357255 8398 62.136.3.212 (7 Jun 2000 05:54:15 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 7 Jun 2000 05:54:15 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25402 I use a cold 'ham' knife - works fine (I have just extracted the first 3/4 ton this year). "Matthew Pollard" wrote in message news:393D7757.5E5B3FE2@uidaho.edu... > Which is better and why for uncapping. I've only used the hot knife > method. Thanks > Matthew > Article 25403 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmasters3!bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8hhr4g$2jq$1@ionews.ionet.net> Subject: Re: Wanting to Swarm Lines: 24 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: <4bc%4.36$uJ3.2068@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 19:21:36 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.50.68 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 960319296 12.72.50.68 (Tue, 06 Jun 2000 19:21:36 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 19:21:36 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25403 Please provide more information. Why did you requeen? What has been going on with the colony? What makes you think they want to swarm? Where are you? etc....... -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "TJ" wrote in message news:8hhr4g$2jq$1@ionews.ionet.net... > I have about 2 weeks ago requeen a colony. Even now they seem to still want > to swarm as before. They have a empty super on them and it seem to be > enough room for them. They still have one super only probably 50% filled > out. > Any ideas? > > Article 25404 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.kjsl.com!newsfeed.stanford.edu!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: AL Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: hot knife VS plane ??? Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 23:08:15 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 15 Message-ID: <393DCAAF.2D781CF6@midwest.net> References: <393D7757.5E5B3FE2@uidaho.edu> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25404 Matthew Pollard wrote: > > Which is better and why for uncapping. I've only used the hot knife > method. Thanks > Matthew This isn't exactly in keeping with the question, but I use an electric carving knife. The reciprocating blades make a nice clean cut. Once the uncapping/extracting is done, the blades are cleaned and put away for holiday ham or turkey. AL Article 25405 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!portc.blue.aol.com.MISMATCH!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jpa555@aol.com (JPA555) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Newbie Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 07 Jun 2000 04:18:37 GMT References: <3937F7BE.D28B675B@flash.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000607001837.25089.00001092@ng-me1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25405 I agree why did you remove the one frame now you have to go in and scrape it all off or you'll never get it apart and you don't need smoke for installing packages and you could put in floats in the sugar syrup as in paint sticks work well the best way is to get a division board feeder and put a paint stick in that for a float (a clean one) so the bees don't drowned and you don't need to wet them down with the sugar syrup just a few quick sprays... Don't worrie about getting stung they don't hurt like a yellow jacket does or a hornet get used to gettin stung is what you should be doing. Jim Article 25406 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.netcom.net.uk!netcom.net.uk!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Allergies Associated With Beekeeping Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 01:04:53 +0100 Message-ID: References: <8hef1a$6jd$2@lure.pipex.net> <8hgcnv$1ut$1@news.smartworld.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 960380251 nnrp-06:29692 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 18 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25406 In article <8hgcnv$1ut$1@news.smartworld.net>, Allen Dick writes >I am allergic to the bees themselves. That is okay as long as they are >whole and running around, but if I smear one on me or am exposed to dry dead >bees being swept up, I have a (mild) reaction. If I rub my eyes or neck >when working bees, I get some irritation, discomfort and redness. Thanks. That explains my own mild but uncomfortable reaction if I rub my eyes after working the bees. >I should mention here that there is considerable risk of serious respiratory >damage to people working in close quarters with long-dead bees for periods >of time . This happens when cleaning dry mouldy bees out of brood chambers >of hives that die over winter or when sweeping up the floor in wintering >buildings. Many molds quickly grow in the bodies of dead bees. There is a >wide variety of mould that can be found, and some are extremely toxic or >irritating to people. Now that's advice I must put into our Newsletter and my basic course. -- James Kilty Article 25407 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!portc.blue.aol.com.MISMATCH!portc03.blue.aol.com!peerfeed.news.psi.net!jump.innerx.net!basement Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping From: Why@me.com (SomeOne) Subject: Re: Maxant Chain Decapper References: <393F77EF.CAF3B5B5@together.net> X-Newsreader: News Xpress 2.01 Lines: 14 Message-ID: Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 16:36:06 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 38.27.163.99 X-Trace: jump.innerx.net 960482472 38.27.163.99 (Thu, 08 Jun 2000 12:41:12 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 12:41:12 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25407 In article <393F77EF.CAF3B5B5@together.net>, mpalmer@together.net wrote: >I used one for years, until I got a Gunness. I adjusted mine even with the top >bars. > >SomeOne wrote: > >The only hassle I have is fine tuning the chain flail. I know how to adjust > >> the depth of the chains, but I don't know to what depth would work best. >> Comments from those who actually USE this device would be more than welcome. > > > I'll give that a shot, thank you! Article 25408 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!12.127.16.134!attmtf!att542!att541!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Newbie Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 06:46:52 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 42 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust174.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8hlfp3$mme$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <3937F7BE.D28B675B@flash.net> <20000606171728.18435.00003930@ng-cg1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust174.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25408 > Sounds ok so far, but why did you remove the one frame from the brood box? I > have heard it recommended that when installing a package, a frame or two should > be removed to create a space to dump the bees in, but then the frames should be > put back before closing the hive up to avoid a burr comb mess. FWIW, we always leave one frame out when installing packages (This is illustrated in the diary in the first week of April) . This practice makes subsequent inspections much faster. Of course, we do remove 3 other frames in the centre to provide a space to dump the bees and queen into, but we immediately replace them, leaving only one frame on the outside farthest from the frame feeder missing for several weeks until the checks are complete and we are supering. The rest of the frames are properly spaced, of course. We never have the bees build comb in the wider gap near the wall. Beginners are often afraid to direct release the queen and are sometimes -- unfortunately IMO -- advised to leave the queen in her cage for slow release or for manual release later. Since the lid won't go on otherwise, they often leave a gap where the cage is placed between the top bars. This is where the extra comb usually gets built. There may be reasons for not direct releasing a queen when dumping the bees into he hive, but I do not know of a good one. We have tried it both ways, and cannot say *anything* at all good about not releasing the queen at the time the package is dumped. We have installed many, many thousands of packages over the years and would never, never leave the queen confined. allen -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Thousands served... Article 25409 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!upp1.onvoy!msc1.onvoy!onvoy.com!hardy.tc.umn.edu!laurel.tc.umn.edu!not-for-mail From: David Kelley Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: my "split' split Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 15:43:10 -0500 Organization: Dept. of Soil, Water, and Climate Lines: 25 Message-ID: <3940055E.E2162692@soils.umn.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: laurel.tc.umn.edu 960496909 5063 134.84.160.46 (8 Jun 2000 20:41:49 GMT) X-Complaints-To: usenet@laurel.tc.umn.edu X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25409 To the knowledgeable ones out there (includes about anyone but me, 2nd year beekeeper), Here's a perplexing situation that flies against most of what I've read. I made a divide about 13 days ago from a strong hive. Put in 3 frames full of brood, the rest of the frames drawn comb, a feeder pail on top, and a new queen. Came back in 3 days; the queen hadn't yet been released, so I released her directly with no problems. Went back last night (10 days since queen release) and the hive was empty except for a mouse that had taken up residence in the bottom. All the brood were dead in their cells and all the feed gone from the pail. I assume that bees from my other hives robbed out the feed from the pail once the bees and queen went wherever they decided to go. I though that bees wouldn't abandon brood this way. What happened? Why would bees and a new queen abandon brood? Didn't happen to my other split. Any help or insight appreciated. DK -- David Kelley (dkelley@soils.umn.edu) Agricultural Research Service, USDA Dept. of Soil, Water, and Climate 439 Borlaug Hall; University of Minnesota 1991 Upper Buford Circle, St. Paul, MN 55108 phone: 612-625-1909 fax: 651-649-5058 Article 25410 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!feeder.qis.net!newshub.northeast.verio.net!verio!iad-peer.news.verio.net!news.verio.net!dfw-read.news.verio.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Reply-To: "Charles W." From: "Charles W." Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8hoh9j$6hr$1@news.xmission.com> Subject: Re: Moving an established swarm? Lines: 74 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 15:23:38 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.96.184.188 X-Complaints-To: abuse@verio.net X-Trace: dfw-read.news.verio.net 960495820 204.96.184.188 (Thu, 08 Jun 2000 20:23:40 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 20:23:40 GMT Organization: Verio Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25410 D.F.S. wrote in message news:8hoh9j$6hr$1@news.xmission.com... > I have a swarm that has taken up residence in the brick column > on my front porch. > > The home is 85 years old, and I think there is only one layer > of hard brick in the ~2Ft square column and a hollow core. Are you sure the core is hollow? Usually, if the column is not solid (as it is obviously not) there is a wood or steel column in the center that actually carries the load, and the brick is placed around it. If this were true you could take down as much brick as you need to to get to the bees. In which case you should have no problem removing all of the bees including the queen and their comb. If you can successfully remove the queen and comb with brood in it and a large percentage of the bees, and relocate it to the hive body, you shouldn't have much trouble getting the rest of the bees to enter the hive. Give them a few days to clean up the mess in the column and then brick it back up tight so you don't have another swarm take up residence there. You should also check the rest of the house to be sure it is bee proof. You mentioned below that you had once placed comb in a hive and the bees removed it and rebuilt on the foundation ... it would be better if you could carefully remove the comb, cut it to size and tie it into the frames. This would allow the bees to continue to use the comb, and they would fill in around it and basically "glue" it into the frame with new comb and propolis. If you are mechanically inclined ... I had real good luck using the "split frame" design as shown on www.beesource.com in their plans section. Very slick and easy to use! By the way, if I were doing this, I would do it in the day time and just use some light smoke before you start and as you go along. The smoke should keep most of them pleanty docile. If you do it at night, they may sting anything that moves out of panic. When I did a removal, once I started cutting out combs the bees just kind of "herded" to the sides. When I got all the comb out, I took a scoop (made by cutting the bottom off of a milk jug) and scooped up the bees and dumped them in the hive. Also, during the day a large percentage of the bees are out foraging so there are less to contend with. Your tan coveralls should probably work as long as they are in deed tan and not brown. > > Is there a way to convince the bees to move into the hive in > another way? > > something like placing the new hive by the entrance to the current > one and using an attractand in the new hive? There is a method called the "cone method", whick I understand works pretty well, but it would involve already having a nucleus hive with a queen, to accept the existing colony. This method also requires about six weeks to accomplish. > Could I clip the wings on the queen in the new hive and prevent her > from flying? > Would this keep the rest of the hive from leaving? Again, if you get the queen and comb with brood in it into the hive, they will most likely stay in the hive! Just make sure they can't get back into the column. > Should I expect the temperment to change a lot? Once they are settled in their temperment should return to normal. Hope this helps, Charles Georgetown, TX Article 25411 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!ams-newsfeed.speedport.net!newsfeed.speedport.net!newsfeed.wirehub.nl!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!grolier!club-internet!not-for-mail From: peter dillon Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 22:34:59 +0200 Organization: Club-Internet (France) Lines: 15 Message-ID: <39400373.4FE00979@club-internet.fr> References: <8hog2j$mg6$0@63.68.71.52> NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp-44-28-246.wmar.club-internet.fr Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: front1.grolier.fr 960496868 29294 213.44.28.246 (8 Jun 2000 20:41:08 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 8 Jun 2000 20:41:08 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win95; U) X-Accept-Language: en,en-US,fr-CA,fr-FR Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25411 Relating to smoker fuel,
As I need my smoker to keep going for several hours at a time I use dehydrated Lucerne pellets (Alfalfa). These produce a dense white smoke that is cool and calms the bees very well.
It is a little difficult to light (use old hessian sack), but once alight there is no worry about a smoker coughing its last cloud when a procedure is only halfway through.
Make sure it is the non medicated and the largest pellet type.
Peter Article 25412 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <393E4C54.FF177B40@cornell.edu> From: JGinNY Reply-To: jwg6@cornell.edu X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: hot knife VS plane ??? References: <393D7757.5E5B3FE2@uidaho.edu> <8hko27$86e$2@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 23 Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 13:16:19 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.248 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 960383779 24.92.236.248 (Wed, 07 Jun 2000 09:16:19 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 09:16:19 EDT Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25412 Yeah, many times I have just used a long serrated bread knife, or one of those ever-sharp "Ginsu" types. Just used cold, they work very well, and are certainly adequate for a small backyard apiary. Tipping the comb forward as you cut helps to cause the cold sheet of cappings to fall away from the comb, and not stick to its surface. For only a few hives, an electric knife would seem like overkill. And it would sure cost a lot more. And it's no good on a ham! Peter Edwards wrote: > I use a cold 'ham' knife - works fine (I have just extracted the first 3/4 > ton this year). > "Matthew Pollard" wrote in message > news:393D7757.5E5B3FE2@uidaho.edu... > > Which is better and why for uncapping. I've only used the hot knife > > method. Thanks > > Matthew > > Article 25413 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!chnws02.mediaone.net!chnws05.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.44.7!typhoon.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <393E51C9.D1EFF7DB@riverace.com> From: Steve Huston Organization: Riverace Corporation X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: division feeder loc and upper entr hole size References: <8hjv7p$pjn$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 24 Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 13:44:41 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.91.48.64 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: typhoon.ne.mediaone.net 960385481 24.91.48.64 (Wed, 07 Jun 2000 09:44:41 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 09:44:41 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25413 rec01rec@my-deja.com wrote: > > Two questions: > > 1. Does it matter where the division feeder goes in the hive? Not sure... I learned to, and always, put it on one end. Then you just need to slide the cover a couple inches to expose the feeder to check/refill. You probably would not want it in the middle, as you'd disturb the brood nest. > 2. If I am going to drill a hole in the upper brood for the winter how > big should it be? Don't know... sorry. I'd guess about 3/4 inch, but it's just a guess. -Steve -- Steve Huston Riverace Corporation Email: shuston@riverace.com http://www.riverace.com ACE Kits, Support, Consulting (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185 Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html Article 25414 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeeds.nerdc.ufl.edu!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: NEED HELP IN ENGLAND Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 14:44:55 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 41 Message-ID: <394013D6.2466D053@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 960501194 29553 129.101.81.41 (8 Jun 2000 21:53:14 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 8 Jun 2000 21:53:14 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25414 Can someone help out this lad? -Matthew Subject: ADVICE, PLEASE. Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 21:37:40 +0100 From: "moggy" Organization: Customer of Planet Online Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping HI FOLKS THE OTHER DAY MY DAUGHTER NOTICED A SWARM OF BEES IN OUR GARDEN THE NEXT MORNING I NOTICED THEY HAD TAKEN UP RESIDENCE IN OUR DOVE COTE. I LIKE BEES BUT I DON'T LIKE THE IDEA OF THIS AMOUNT OF BEES IN MY GARDEN AND WOULD LIKE THEM MOVED WITHOUT HARM TO THE BEES. I WOULD LIKE TO ASK YOU, WHO CAN I GET TO REMOVE THEM IS THERE ANYONE IN MY AREA THAT COULD/WOULD DO IT I LIVE IN THE STAFFORDSHIRE/WARWICKSHIRE AREA (UK). ARE THEY DANGEROUS, SHOULD I KEEP MY KIDS FROM PLAYING IN THE GARDEN, AND IS THERE ANYMORE ADVICE YOU CAN GIVE ME..............THANKS MOGGY Article 25415 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How threatened is our environment? Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 22:43:46 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 39 Message-ID: <8hp5dh$d7u$1@newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <20000601043315.29381.00001092@ng-fd1.aol.com> <393a3243.62355968@news1.radix.net> <8hensj$ikl$4@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk> <8hmh5h$74u$3@lure.pipex.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-126.colorado.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk 960502001 13566 62.137.57.126 (8 Jun 2000 22:06:41 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 8 Jun 2000 22:06:41 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25415 Correct Martin (spelt PAMELA) - me stands corrected. Not sure how it happened - must be the effect that this newsgroup is having on I! "Pamela Buckle" wrote in message news:8hmh5h$74u$3@lure.pipex.net... > For the record, Peter, in the accusative case, I is spelt ME. Let's get it > right! > Martin. > Peter Edwards wrote in > message news:8hensj$ikl$4@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk... > > > > > I think the biggest threat is someone teaching our children made up > > > words like pollinize! > > > > > > beekeep > > > > Very true, but even beekeepers (who should know better!) frequently use > > incorrect terminology as a glance through recent postings will readily > > prove. For example, the use of 'hive' to describe a colony of bees in a > > tree! > > > > For the record: > > > > Bees carry pollen from the anthers of a 'polliniser' (the plant that > > supplies the pollen) and 'pollinate' a flower by depositing the pollen on > > the stigma. The pollen may then 'fertilise' the flower. > > > > The plants will, of course, be 'polliniferous' (i.e. bearing pollen). > > > > Another good word for Scrabble addicts is 'pollinosis' - hay fever to you > or > > I. > > > > > > Article 25416 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!195.92.193.196!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 22:58:15 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 24 Message-ID: <8hp5di$d7u$2@newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <8hmhta$7sm$1@lure.pipex.net> <8hnv61$n88$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-126.colorado.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk 960502002 13566 62.137.57.126 (8 Jun 2000 22:06:42 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 8 Jun 2000 22:06:42 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25416 > My son tried the dry grass a few weeks ago, but found that it burned > too hot - it discolored the sides of his smoker (and he burned his > finger on it also - he has never done this with the commercial fuel).. > Duane L. Rezac -------------------------- Dry grass is fine if you pack it down well once the smoker is going well. It gives plenty of dense smoke but does burn out fairly quickly. I have many hives on a local fruit farm and have a good supply of dry grass at this time when they mow. In my view the best fuel is well rotted wood - I have just hauled an old elm stump home and placed in the corner of the garden. I will break of lumps as I need them as put them in my smoker box in the back of the Land Rover. They light easily with a match when they are dry - no paper needed - and burn slowly with a pleasant smelling smoke. Sacking is sometimes available from shops that roast and grind coffee on the premises; the coffee sacks are not treated in any way, unlike some used for other purposes that may be treated with insecticide or other chemicals. Corrugated cardboard would be my last choice - very unpleasant acrid smoke. Article 25417 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!cyclone-west.rr.com!news.rr.com|news-west.rr.com!newsfeed2.earthlink.net!newsfeed.earthlink.net!newsmaster1.prod.itd.earthlink.net!newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: qualityram@yahoo.ie (Matthew) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: hive in a tree Organization: ACS Reply-To: qualityram@yahoo.ie Message-ID: <39401367.13965092@news.earthlink.net> References: <20000604081756.06462.00000536@ng-cq1.aol.com> <393a7329.78970725@news1.radix.net> X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.0/32.390 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 58 Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 00:35:34 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 63.14.82.209 X-Complaints-To: abuse@earthlink.net X-Trace: newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net 960510934 63.14.82.209 (Thu, 08 Jun 2000 17:35:34 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 17:35:34 PDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25417 Using rubber bands to salvage comb can give you a quick hive full of pollen/brood in starting out a feral extraction. Most feral comb will bend to fit frames if it isn't already drawn straight. Cut from a large tree you should find oodles of straight comb if the interior of the tree allowed unobstructed construction. Here's some important guidelines to help save brood: - Keep the brood warm at all times! Transfer the comb with bees attached whenever possible. - Keep the brood honeyless - meaning cut out all honey if possible. Honey covered brood will kill it in a hurry. Keep it clean by making your cuts below the honey at the tougher pollen layer. There's bound to be some honey mess so dump all brushed/vacuumed bees onto the old brood asap for cleanup duty. -Don't bother with 'mushy' white comb. -Keep the comb in the same direction originally drawn. Upside down comb will do nothing to improve your hive. Peter Edwards suggestion on moving all the brood over a queen excluder is good (isolate the queen below the exluder!) but you have the progressive problem of removing bees from their natural comb. The bees will build rather than rob spending valuable bee-time attaching combs together into one big super. If you use this method (saves beekeeper's time) to save brood, move the queen excluder ontop an empty super after 2-3 weeks followed by another empty super the next week. Bees will get the hint and move remaining honey stores down provided there's no upper entrance. Don't move the feral comb up until you're sure the queen is laying in the frames below. Take off the robbed out comb a few weeks later. Some of the meanest bees you'll encounter come from wrecked hives. Depending on whether the queen survives the workers may decide you broke their hive and unleash their discouragement on the first thing that moves. I remember a hive a year or two ago taken from a queenless fallen cottonwood mess. One of the workers waited for me all night long right and stung me next to the eye within 2 seconds of walking out the front door early in the morning. Since their re-constructed hive was on the opposite side of the house and it was too cool for bees to start flying, this is the only explanation I have for that quick sting. Neighbors ran for their vehicles for three days until my new queen showed up. Matthew Westall // Earthling Bees >8(())))- "Take me to your feeder" \\ Castle Rock, CO, USA >>was a hive in that tree (30 years) How can I get this into a hive body? .... >>I don't know if the queen made it through the fall, I'll probly get the heck >>stung out of me but I think it is worth, they must be a good wintering bee > >Actually, it has been my experience that the bees tollerate being >handled after such an event fairly calmly. I was asked to pick up a > >Greg the beekeep > Article 25418 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!63.208.208.143!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp2.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39403E0A.4CC1FF97@together.net> From: Michael Palmer Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Organization: French Hill Apiaries X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-DIAL (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: my "split' split References: <3940055E.E2162692@soils.umn.edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 33 Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 20:44:59 -0400 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.13.202.158 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp2.onemain.com 960511411 208.13.202.158 (Thu, 08 Jun 2000 20:43:31 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 20:43:31 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25418 You placed 3 frames of brood in the nuc. What about the bees? Young bees that won't fly home, or old ones that do? Next time, place your nuc above an excluder over night, and let the colony populate it with young bees. Next day remove it to your new stand, and give it a new queen. David Kelley wrote: > To the knowledgeable ones out there (includes about anyone but me, 2nd > year beekeeper), > Here's a perplexing situation that flies against most of what I've read. > I made a divide about 13 days ago from a strong hive. Put in 3 frames > full of brood, the rest of the frames drawn comb, a feeder pail on top, > and a new queen. Came back in 3 days; the queen hadn't yet been > released, so I released her directly with no problems. Went back last > night (10 days since queen release) and the hive was empty except for a > mouse that had taken up residence in the bottom. All the brood were dead > in their cells and all the feed gone from the pail. I assume that bees > from my other hives robbed out the feed from the pail once the bees and > queen went wherever they decided to go. I though that bees wouldn't > abandon brood this way. What happened? Why would bees and a new queen > abandon brood? Didn't happen to my other split. > Any help or insight appreciated. > DK > -- > David Kelley (dkelley@soils.umn.edu) > Agricultural Research Service, USDA > Dept. of Soil, Water, and Climate > 439 Borlaug Hall; University of Minnesota > 1991 Upper Buford Circle, St. Paul, MN 55108 > phone: 612-625-1909 fax: 651-649-5058 Article 25419 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Italian Queens Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 09 Jun 2000 00:15:13 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000608201513.05980.00000136@ng-fc1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25419 Are Italian Queens hairier? Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 25420 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!63.208.208.143!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp2.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39403E78.F5CBD5AD@together.net> From: Michael Palmer Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Organization: French Hill Apiaries X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-DIAL (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Italian Queens References: <20000608201513.05980.00000136@ng-fc1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 12 Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 20:46:49 -0400 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.13.202.158 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp2.onemain.com 960511521 208.13.202.158 (Thu, 08 Jun 2000 20:45:21 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 20:45:21 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25420 Only on their legs :-) BeeCrofter wrote: > Are Italian Queens hairier? > > Tom > > There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 25421 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sdd.hp.com!enews.sgi.com!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: AL Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Italian Queens Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 21:49:03 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 17 Message-ID: <39405B1F.61A045E2@midwest.net> References: <20000608201513.05980.00000136@ng-fc1.aol.com> <39403E78.F5CBD5AD@together.net> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25421 Look closer...if ya dare. AL Michael Palmer wrote: > > Only on their legs :-) > > BeeCrofter wrote: > > > Are Italian Queens hairier? > > > > Tom > > > > There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 25422 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: AL Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 16:47:43 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 65 Message-ID: <393EC2FF.4498EC1@midwest.net> References: <393E9274.446C0BE2@formida.com> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25422 Damp pine needles work better, once a fire is going in the smoker. AL Mark Gaylord wrote: > > dry pine needles work great. > > "Charles W." wrote: > > > I'm just a novice myself, but in answer to your first question ... I've not > > heard of any foundation (plastic or otherwise) that the bees did not have to > > draw out with their own wax. Therefore, when it comes extracting time, you > > treat them the same as any other. The cappings must be removed exactly the > > same with the use of any type foundation. Having plastic in the middle of > > the comb just provides strength ... used instead of embedding wires in the > > old pure wax foundation. > > > > As for question number 2 ... I'd like to know myself what common everyday > > materials provide good smoker fuel. I agree that burlap is sometimes > > difficult to find and I don't like the idea of having to buy special smoker > > fuel from a bee supplier. Any info on this would be appreciated. > > > > Charles > > Georgetown, TX > > > > Dusty Bleher wrote in message > > news:sjsso4kj2t585@news.supernews.com... > > > Hi all; > > > > > > Just a couple of questions: > > > 1) In the "old days" we just cut the caps off the comb to release the > > honey. > > > How do you it with these "modern" new plastic comb foundations? Do I pop > > out > > > the comb, and use a knife to cut off the comb right at the base? Or do I > > just > > > cap it and extract in the conventional manner? > > > > > > 2) Several months back there was a good discussion on smoking, and > > materials > > > to use for good cool smoke. I seem to have lost those references, and a > > Deja > > > search was pretty sparse. Could anybody remind me of the upshot of those > > > discussions? IIRC; burlap was pretty well acknowledged to be among the > > best > > > materials. Unfortunately, it's kind of hard to find around here. I had > > > neglected to note what other materials folks were using... In particular, > > > someone had mentioned a pressed cotton block (I think). Any names so I > > could > > > research it?? > > > > > > TIA, > > > Dusty Bleher > > > San Jose, Ca. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Article 25423 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!news.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "Dusty Bleher" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 15:05:11 -0700 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 13 Message-ID: References: <393E9274.446C0BE2@formida.com> <393EC2FF.4498EC1@midwest.net> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25423 Thanks for all your good tips, folks! Dusty "AL" wrote in message news:393EC2FF.4498EC1@midwest.net... > > Damp pine needles work better, once a fire is going in the smoker. > > AL Article 25424 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!xmission!nnrp.xmission!not-for-mail From: D.F.S. Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Moving an established swarm? Date: 9 Jun 2000 19:57:19 GMT Organization: XMission http://www.xmission.com/ Lines: 93 Message-ID: <8hri6v$c90$1@news.xmission.com> References: <8hoh9j$6hr$1@news.xmission.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: xmission.xmission.com X-Trace: news.xmission.com 960580639 12576 198.60.22.20 (9 Jun 2000 19:57:19 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@xmission.com NNTP-Posting-Date: 9 Jun 2000 19:57:19 GMT X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 unoff BETA 970327; sun4m SunOS 5.7] Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25424 Charles W. wrote: > D.F.S. wrote in message > news:8hoh9j$6hr$1@news.xmission.com... > > I have a swarm that has taken up residence in the brick column > > on my front porch. > > > > The home is 85 years old, and I think there is only one layer > > of hard brick in the ~2Ft square column and a hollow core. > Are you sure the core is hollow? Usually, if the column is not solid (as > it is obviously not) there is a wood or steel column in the center that > actually carries the load, and the brick is placed around it. If this were > true you could take down as much brick as you need to to get to the bees. In > which case you should have no problem removing all of the bees including the > queen and their comb. I'll have to take a look. Worst case, I have some house jacks I could brace use to brace up the beams and remove as much brick as I need to that way as well. > If you can successfully remove the queen and comb with brood in it and a > large percentage of the bees, and relocate it to the hive body, you > shouldn't have much trouble getting the rest of the bees to enter the hive. > Give them a few days to clean up the mess in the column and then brick it > back up tight so you don't have another swarm take up residence there. You > should also check the rest of the house to be sure it is bee proof. > You mentioned below that you had once placed comb in a hive and the bees > removed it and rebuilt on the foundation ... it would be better if you could > carefully remove the comb, cut it to size and tie it into the frames. This > would allow the bees to continue to use the comb, and they would fill in > around it and basically "glue" it into the frame with new comb and propolis. > If you are mechanically inclined ... I had real good luck using the "split > frame" design as shown on www.beesource.com in their plans section. Very > slick and easy to use! I am, I'll take a look. > By the way, if I were doing this, I would do it in the day time and just use > some light smoke before you start and as you go along. The smoke should > keep most of them pleanty docile. If you do it at night, they may sting > anything that moves out of panic. When I did a removal, once I started > cutting out combs the bees just kind of "herded" to the sides. When I got > all the comb out, I took a scoop (made by cutting the bottom off of a milk > jug) and scooped up the bees and dumped them in the hive. Also, during the > day a large percentage of the bees are out foraging so there are less to > contend with. > Your tan coveralls should probably work as long as they are in deed tan > and not brown. Well, that is subjective I guess, "Buckskin" may be a BIT more descriptive. I'll be looking for whatever I can find that is more white. > > > > Is there a way to convince the bees to move into the hive in > > another way? > > > > something like placing the new hive by the entrance to the current > > one and using an attractand in the new hive? > There is a method called the "cone method", whick I understand works pretty > well, but it would involve already having a nucleus hive with a queen, to > accept the existing colony. This method also requires about six weeks to > accomplish. > > Could I clip the wings on the queen in the new hive and prevent her > > from flying? > > Would this keep the rest of the hive from leaving? > Again, if you get the queen and comb with brood in it into the hive, they > will most likely stay in the hive! Just make sure they can't get back into > the column. You also made mention of giving them a few days to clean out the old hive. Should I leave the new hive close, like on the concrete top rail of the porch for a few days before moving it? > > Should I expect the temperment to change a lot? > Once they are settled in their temperment should return to normal. I hope so, they seem like a fairly calm colony. > Hope this helps, It does, thanks. Article 25425 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!news0.de.colt.net!colt.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!btnet-peer0!btnet!mendelevium.btinternet.com!not-for-mail From: Paul Hirons Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Buckfast & Brother Adam Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 20:25:08 +0100 Organization: BT Internet Message-ID: <39414493.2EA0D672@btinternet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: host213-1-179-202.btinternet.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en-gb]C-CCK-MCD NetscapeOnline.co.uk (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en-GB,en Lines: 14 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25425 I was a bit disappointed on a trip to Buckfast Abbey last year to see the home of the Buckfast Bee and Brother Adam. Buckfast only has one book for sale by Brother Adam and the only area the world famous Buckfast Bee Breeder is acknowledged is in one small hallway area of a museum which has a mannequin and a photo. I wrote to Buckfast and asked why there is no exhibition or display area dedicated to Brother Adams work I was informed he was a monk first and a Beekeeper second. What a disappointment Buckfast holds for Beekeepers who make the effort to visit. What a poor memorial for such an outstanding Beekeeper as Brother Adam. Article 25426 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!chnws02.mediaone.net!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39415290.E8AACE70@cornell.edu> From: JGinNY Reply-To: jwg6@cornell.edu X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: division feeder loc and upper entr hole size References: <8hjv7p$pjn$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 29 Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 20:19:51 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.23 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 960581991 24.92.236.23 (Fri, 09 Jun 2000 16:19:51 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 16:19:51 EDT Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25426 rec01rec@my-deja.com wrote: > Two questions: > > 1. Does it matter where the division feeder goes in the hive? At one side or the other of the hive body, usually. Against the wall. Another question I've had is: Where in a double-brood-chamber hive is the best place for such an in-hive feeder? In Sue Hubbel's A BOOK OF BEES, she mentions placing a division-board feeder in every hive, in the _bottom_ brood chamber, adjacent to the wall. Anybody know why this would be done, instead of just leaving the feeder in the more accessible upper brood box? Is there an advantage to having it down below instead? > > 2. If I am going to drill a hole in the upper brood for the winter how > big should it be? Generally 5/8" to 1" dia. 3/4" is pretty common. You can plug it with a wine cork when it is not being used. Just don't drill it _in_ the hand-hold, or someday you are sure to get a surprise when lifting off the box. Yowza! Article 25427 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!nf1.mgmt.sympatico.ca!news1.bellglobal.com!news20.bellglobal.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39419963.B4BF226@sympatico.ca> From: honey.road@sympatico.ca Organization: My Beekeeping Homepape: http://www3.sympatico.ca/honey.road X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Foulbrood References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 22 Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 22:27:08 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.172.183.122 X-Trace: news20.bellglobal.com 960589628 206.172.183.122 (Fri, 09 Jun 2000 18:27:08 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 18:27:08 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25427 I bought my copy at Apimondia in Vancouver, only to discover it was available online a few weeks later. It's a great reference one AFB, but it's miracle sure, BURN IT ALL, felt a bit discouraged after forking out 10$ US for it, especialy after finding it online fir free. Al Banks Honey Road Apiaries http://www.honeyroad.com "Charles W." wrote: > I'm looking for a book called "Preventing American Foulbrood without the use > of Drugs", or something close to that. It is a small yellow soft-back book. > Does anybody know where I might find this book? It was supposedly > advertised in an issue of Beekeepers Journal, but I have yet to find it. > Any info on this would be appreciated. > Thanks, > > Charles > Georgetown, TX Article 25428 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmasters3!bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Margaret Nichols" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: city ordinances Lines: 16 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.71.1712.3 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.71.1712.3 Message-ID: Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 21:16:37 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.75.170.231 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 960585397 12.75.170.231 (Fri, 09 Jun 2000 21:16:37 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 21:16:37 GMT Organization: AT&T Worldnet Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25428 I used to lurk here regularly, because although I have never had bees, I've had the notion that maybe I could. Some years ago, about the time I decided to take the plunge, a dear neighbor was stung by a bee with very serious consequences, which very effectively caused me to re-think my decision. That dear neighbor is gone -- from other causes -- but now I'm wondering if city ordinances exercise control over beekeeping. We have a large back yard, which is contiguous with a wooded area, although we do have neighbors on either side. I'd appreciate reading any input from folks who keep bees in urban areas. Justpeace, Peg Nichols rmnichols@kansascity.com Article 25429 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.qis.net!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp1.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Ed" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Success with Russian Queens part 2 Lines: 46 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 18:15:52 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.80.176.13 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp1.onemain.com 960592169 216.80.176.13 (Fri, 09 Jun 2000 19:09:29 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 19:09:29 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25429 I recently received this response from Dr. Tom Rinderer Lead Research Entomologist, USDA Honey Bee Breeding, Genetics and Physiology Laboratory in Baton Rouge, LA regarding Russian Honeybees: <<>> > What characteristics can I look for in Russian Honeybees? Are they gentle, Most of the time. They will sting and on a day when bees shoul not really be opened or in the springtime when the population is old bees and the first one or two cycles of brood for the year they will be quite defensive. But overall they are quite gentle. > good honey producers? As good as most commercial bees. Do they use a lot of propolis? No, they use very little. Do they winter well > in cold climates? Yes, they are very good for overwintering. Do the have any resistance to Tracheal Mites? Yes, most of them are very resistant to tracheal mites Are all > Russian Queens black? No. They range from orange yellow to black. Many are quite mixed with all kinds of combinations of yellow and black banding. <<>> As far as my experiment with Russians is concerned, so far so good! -- Ed http://www.geocites.com/RainForest/Canopy/1436/ Article 25430 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!torn!nf1.mgmt.sympatico.ca!news1.bellglobal.com!news20.bellglobal.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39419971.9C943B35@sympatico.ca> From: honey.road@sympatico.ca Organization: My Beekeeping Homepape: http://www3.sympatico.ca/honey.road X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Foulbrood References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 22 Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 22:27:21 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.172.183.122 X-Trace: news20.bellglobal.com 960589641 206.172.183.122 (Fri, 09 Jun 2000 18:27:21 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 18:27:21 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25430 I bought my copy at Apimondia in Vancouver, only to discover it was available online a few weeks later. It's a great reference one AFB, but it's miracle sure, BURN IT ALL, felt a bit discouraged after forking out 10$ US for it, especialy after finding it online for free. Al Banks Honey Road Apiaries http://www.honeyroad.com "Charles W." wrote: > I'm looking for a book called "Preventing American Foulbrood without the use > of Drugs", or something close to that. It is a small yellow soft-back book. > Does anybody know where I might find this book? It was supposedly > advertised in an issue of Beekeepers Journal, but I have yet to find it. > Any info on this would be appreciated. > Thanks, > > Charles > Georgetown, TX Article 25431 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newsfeed.icl.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: Pete Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: division feeder loc and upper entr hole size Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 00:36:54 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 30 Message-ID: <8hs2j6$r9h$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <8hjv7p$pjn$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.152.6.115 X-Article-Creation-Date: Sat Jun 10 00:36:54 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.7 [en]C-CCK-MCD snapN45b1 (Win95; U) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x60.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 216.152.6.115 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDhrogers000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25431 rec01rec@my-deja.com wrote: > 1. Does it matter where the division feeder goes in the hive? > 2. If I am going to drill a hole in the upper brood for the winter how > big should it be? > Ron *********************************************************** Howdy Ron -- I have used division board feeders, but do not like them. Upper hole? It is hard to believe that a small hole would be adequate to let the moisture escape. I use a 3/8" opening year round and put a 1/4" stick on top of the inner cover or under the migratory cover. this allows plenty of circulation of air bottom to top. Fortunately I am in the sunny south where winter weather is not often a real problem. Pete So much to learn - So little time ! ************************************************** Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25432 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: joeblow Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Message-ID: References: Organization: joeblow X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.20 Lines: 31 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 03:07:47 EDT Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 03:12:31 -0400 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25432 In article , dusty@fsinc.com says... > Hi all; > > Just a couple of questions: > 1) In the "old days" we just cut the caps off the comb to release the honey. > How do you it with these "modern" new plastic comb foundations? Do I pop out > the comb, and use a knife to cut off the comb right at the base? Or do I just > cap it and extract in the conventional manner? > > 2) Several months back there was a good discussion on smoking, and materials > to use for good cool smoke. I seem to have lost those references, and a Deja > search was pretty sparse. Could anybody remind me of the upshot of those > discussions? IIRC; burlap was pretty well acknowledged to be among the best > materials. Unfortunately, it's kind of hard to find around here. I had > neglected to note what other materials folks were using... In particular, > someone had mentioned a pressed cotton block (I think). Any names so I could > research it?? > > TIA, > Dusty Bleher > San Jose, Ca. > > > > > > I like the white pine needles too. I have also used those red pods from the sumac plant. Dried out of course. It is said to be very intoxicating to the bees. I used it on a very aggressive colony with good results. Has anyone else used the sumac? Buzz Article 25433 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.algonet.se!algonet!newsfeed.wirehub.nl!bullseye.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!qichina.demon.co.uk!not-for-mail From: Godfrey Bartlett Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Essex Beekeepers Association, UK Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 10:03:04 +0100 Message-ID: <393F6148.43E033A@qichina.demon.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: qichina.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: qichina.demon.co.uk:194.222.176.192 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 960454998 nnrp-10:7503 NO-IDENT qichina.demon.co.uk:194.222.176.192 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 8 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25433 This is to announce, during the swarmiest year on record, that the Essex Beekeepers Association now has a Guestbook on its "Contacts" page at: http://www.qichina.demon.co.uk/ebka Please visit and let us know what you think! Godfrey Bartlett Article 25434 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newshub.northeast.verio.net!verio!feeder.qis.net!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp2.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <393F7747.F20D31D9@together.net> From: Michael Palmer Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Organization: French Hill Apiaries X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-DIAL (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: bears and bacon and electricity References: <8hmcs5$g89$1@campus3.mtu.edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 13 Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 06:36:56 -0400 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.13.202.146 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp2.onemain.com 960460528 208.13.202.146 (Thu, 08 Jun 2000 06:35:28 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 06:35:28 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25434 I never have replaced the bacon once the bear knows the fence is hot. Never had a bear go through an active fence. Timothy C. Eisele wrote: > Just one question, though: how often should I refresh the bacon? > Every two weeks or so? Or should I just replace it as it gradually > disappears from insects and birds eating it? > > Article 25435 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newshub.northeast.verio.net!verio!europa.netcrusader.net!63.208.208.143!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp2.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <393F77EF.CAF3B5B5@together.net> From: Michael Palmer Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Organization: French Hill Apiaries X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-DIAL (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Maxant Chain Decapper References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 12 Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 06:39:43 -0400 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.13.202.146 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp2.onemain.com 960460696 208.13.202.146 (Thu, 08 Jun 2000 06:38:16 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 06:38:16 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25435 I used one for years, until I got a Gunness. I adjusted mine even with the top bars. SomeOne wrote: The only hassle I have is fine tuning the chain flail. I know how to adjust > the depth of the chains, but I don't know to what depth would work best. > Comments from those who actually USE this device would be more than welcome. Article 25436 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!torn!newserver!news.hwcn.org!not-for-mail From: "Keith B. Forsyth" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Allergies Associated With Beekeeping Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 08:05:46 -0400 Organization: Hamilton-Wentworth FreeNet Lines: 10 Distribution: world Message-ID: <8ho2ar$rcg$1@mohawk.hwcn.org> References: <8hef1a$6jd$2@lure.pipex.net><8hgcnv$1ut$1@news.smartworld.net> Reply-To: "Keith B. Forsyth" NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.212.94.205 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25436 Hi: You may wish to reference the following report: "Assessment of Airborne moulds as a Biological Hazard for Alberta Commercial Beekeepers", 1995, Gauvreau, H., L. Sigler, S. Abbott. Alberta Occupational Health and Safety Grant Programme. The work was done by Fairview College and deals mainly with indoor wintering facilities. However, it may have some applicable information. Keith Article 25437 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!attmtf!att541!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Foulbrood Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 01:16:52 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 91 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust146.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8hspgm$bou$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <39419971.9C943B35@sympatico.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust146.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25437 I bought my copy at Apimondia too, knowing full well that it was available on the web at http://nba.org.nz/pms/manual/ , and having looked at it there. Reading anything long on a computer is difficult, especially if you read like me and leaf back and forth or start at the last chapter before you decide if you are going to read the introduction, so if I plan to dig in, I want hard copy. At any rate, I did not buy the book because I was impressed with the logic and reason in it when I first saw it. Nor did I buy it because I think there are any useful ideas in it. I bought the book with the intention of writing a rebuttal someday when I have nothing better to do. That day may a long way off. Until then, I will offer this much: the behaviour of the bacillus that causes AFB and the conditions under which it causes what we refer to as 'breakdown" are very poorly understood by virtually everyone, including, I think, the authors of the book in question. Granted, if the bacillus could be obliterated from any particular environment and prevented from re-entering it, AFB could be defeated in the location for as long as it can be excluded. In my present opinion, this is not likely to happen anywhere for very long a number of reasons, including the fact that there is a large investment in bee equipment that is currently in use and, unless it all destroyed, there continues to be a potential reservoir with a long lifespan. Destroying private property is a political problem that is very sensitive in most modern countries. Currently, the price of beeswax is very low, partly due to the fact that beekeepers no longer buy as much as before in the form of foundation, so the cash from the destruction of the old equipment will not finance the renewal, and if crops are reduced in the years of renewal, that won't do it either. It *may* be possible to replace the entire comb structure of a hive within a year, but most experienced beekeepers consider this to be unacceptably costly in terms of lost production in that year. I really do not know. We are currently testing this idea and will have an idea of its practicality soon, I hope. Apparently Europeans are able to renew comb on a fairly short cycle. At any rate, total eradication of the AFB causative organism may not be the most practical solution either in the long or short run. If we understood AFB better, we would be able to know why some unmedicated hives can be given frames of scaly comb and clean them and raise healthy brood,a while other medicated hives on clean comb seem to be able to break down with no apparent source of infection. I believe the answer is -- at least in part -- in the genetics of the bees involved. I am not alone in believing this. There may be environmental factors too. Attempting eradication is a temporary and drastic solution, and may not be worth the cost if all factors and the risk of failure are considered -- unless you happen to be making a good living off going through the motions and have no stake in its success or failure. There may be other, more permanent and reasonable ways to deal with this scourge, and they will only come from a clearer and more accurate understanding of how AFB functions than this book will provide. Regardless of what other ways of combating AFB are contemplated, it is quite clear today, that bee breeding will be one essential part of any permanent, non costly, non chemical solution that can be applied universally. Moreover bee breeding can be effective regardless of the actions of fellow citizens and beekeepers. Eradication, on the other hand requires either a totalitarian regime to be enacted and maintained or it requires a measure of co-operation and honesty that is seldom found on this earth. allen -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... > I bought my copy at Apimondia in Vancouver, only to discover it was available > online a few weeks later. It's a great reference one AFB, but it's miracle sure, > BURN IT ALL, felt a bit discouraged after forking out 10$ US for it, especialy > after finding it online for free. > > I'm looking for a book called "Preventing American Foulbrood without the use > > of Drugs", or something close to that. It is a small yellow soft-back book. > > Does anybody know where I might find this book? It was supposedly > > advertised in an issue of Beekeepers Journal, but I have yet to find it. Article 25438 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed1.swip.net!swipnet!nntpserver.swip.net!not-for-mail From: "STIG HANSSON" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Dronelaying workers? Lines: 15 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 17:22:25 +0200 NNTP-Posting-Host: 212.151.178.232 X-Complaints-To: news-abuse@swip.net X-Trace: nntpserver.swip.net 960650532 212.151.178.232 (Sat, 10 Jun 2000 17:22:12 MET DST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 17:22:12 MET DST Organization: A Customer of Tele2 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25438 Hi everybody! A week ago I started to think about changing the queen of one of my hives since the bees were aggressive and I found two eggs in one cell on several places (though the egg-laying pattern seemed to be normal...?). Yesterday, when I went out to take away the old queen, I saw this typical sign of egg-laying workers: capped drone cells here&there on the frame. Questions: How do I get rid of those egg-laying workers? or Is there a way of making the bees accept a new queen (or a capped queen cell)? Doris Article 25439 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!newsswitch.lcs.mit.edu!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.atl.bellsouth.net.MISMATCH!newsfeed.atl!news4.atl.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <394261FB.A99253D4@bellsouth.net> From: Michael Franklin Reply-To: msfranklin@geocities.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 (Macintosh; U; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: city ordinances References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 39 Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 11:42:53 -0400 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.77.214.31 X-Trace: news4.atl 960651775 216.77.214.31 (Sat, 10 Jun 2000 11:42:55 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 11:42:55 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25439 I live 5 minutes from downtown Ft. Lauderdale and have 1 hobby hive on a lot that's 75'w x 125'd with a fenced backyard. I researched the city ordinances which only pertained to the keeping of farm animals in an enclosure. My neighbor decided (months after I'd already applied the "good neighbor rule" I might add) that he had a problem with my hive. He called code enforcement who issued me a citation for violating the ordinance about farm animals. It took very little education with code enforcement before they revoked the citation and gave me clearance to keep the hive. I've kept bees on a farm and now in the city. My experience has been that they are a little slower to develop in the city (any other's agree?), and I have to be a little more careful about when I work them to avoid any accidents with the neighbors. For the most part, I haven't had any problems. In fact, the prospect of free stuff has outweighed any fears the neighbors have had. I've even had a few of them come over to watch me work the hive, and a friend is now thinking about getting one of his own. If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me. Michael Franklin Margaret Nichols wrote: > I used to lurk here regularly, because although I have never had bees, I've > had the notion that maybe I could. > Some years ago, about the time I decided to take the plunge, a dear > neighbor was stung by a bee with very serious consequences, which very > effectively caused me to re-think my decision. > That dear neighbor is gone -- from other causes -- but now I'm wondering > if city ordinances exercise control over beekeeping. We have a large back > yard, which is contiguous with a wooded area, although we do have neighbors > on either side. > I'd appreciate reading any input from folks who keep bees in urban > areas. > Justpeace, Peg Nichols > rmnichols@kansascity.com Article 25440 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.kjsl.com!newsfeed.stanford.edu!paloalto-snf1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!webtv.net!not-for-mail From: russ1026@webtv.net (Shari) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: 4-H ?s Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 15:23:35 -0500 (EST) Organization: WebTV Subscriber Lines: 13 Message-ID: <25504-3942A3C7-70@storefull-214.iap.bryant.webtv.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAsAhRuDqrB++8zECQxr298qvprY8U18wIUEsVaK+ykGfdjGdreZajgNE+8Ilg= Content-Disposition: Inline Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25440 These are the questions that she has left unanswered. She got many answers from the sites suggested - THANKS. 1. What is meant by the term crossed comb? 2.Why is it necessary that the broad frame size foundation be reinforced, but not the shallow extracting frame size foundation? She will check tomorrow for your answers . For the project this year she is to do the book work and make a poster for the fair that shows the uses of wax and honey.She will also give a presentation to her 4-H group, The Clover Blossoms , about her visit with a beekeeper in the area. I'll let you know how well her project does at the fair this year. Thank you very much. for your help. Article 25441 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!208.184.7.66!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!63.211.125.72!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Eaglequest" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Lines: 56 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 17:06:01 EDT Organization: WebUseNet Corp http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 17:07:55 -0400 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25441 The sumac pods are all we use. Works great with little ash. We have heard, from an old-timer, that it also causes the mites to drop. We had one of the best winter survival rates in the area and only treat once in the fall. I am hoping that the sumac is part of those good results. -- Jake Ameel Good-Rich Apiaries Oxford, MI www.Good-Rich.com "joeblow" wrote in message news:MPG.13a911685b72fe41989680@east.usenetserver.com... > In article , dusty@fsinc.com says... > > Hi all; > > > > Just a couple of questions: > > 1) In the "old days" we just cut the caps off the comb to release the honey. > > How do you it with these "modern" new plastic comb foundations? Do I pop out > > the comb, and use a knife to cut off the comb right at the base? Or do I just > > cap it and extract in the conventional manner? > > > > 2) Several months back there was a good discussion on smoking, and materials > > to use for good cool smoke. I seem to have lost those references, and a Deja > > search was pretty sparse. Could anybody remind me of the upshot of those > > discussions? IIRC; burlap was pretty well acknowledged to be among the best > > materials. Unfortunately, it's kind of hard to find around here. I had > > neglected to note what other materials folks were using... In particular, > > someone had mentioned a pressed cotton block (I think). Any names so I could > > research it?? > > > > TIA, > > Dusty Bleher > > San Jose, Ca. > > > > > > > > > > > > > I like the white pine needles too. I have also used those red pods from > the sumac plant. Dried out of course. It is said to be very intoxicating > to the bees. I used it on a very aggressive colony with good results. > Has anyone else used the sumac? Buzz > Article 25442 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!194.176.220.129!newsfeed.icl.net!newspeer.clara.net!news.clara.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Ian Shaw" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: NEED HELP IN ENGLAND Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 23:26:35 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 50 Message-ID: <8huepn$b8u$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <394013D6.2466D053@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-82.francium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk 960675447 11550 62.136.63.82 (10 Jun 2000 22:17:27 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 10 Jun 2000 22:17:27 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.5 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25442 If the entrance to the Dovecote is fairly high and the bees flightline away from direct human activity then they won't interfere with you or your children - you'll have the sweetest Dovecote around!! Ian Matthew Pollard wrote in message <394013D6.2466D053@uidaho.edu>... >Can someone help out this lad? >-Matthew > >Subject: > ADVICE, PLEASE. > Date: > Thu, 8 Jun 2000 21:37:40 +0100 > From: > "moggy" > Organization: > Customer of Planet Online > Newsgroups: > alt.hobbies.beekeeping > > > > >HI FOLKS > THE OTHER DAY MY DAUGHTER NOTICED A SWARM OF BEES IN >OUR >GARDEN THE NEXT MORNING I NOTICED THEY HAD TAKEN UP RESIDENCE IN OUR >DOVE >COTE. > >I LIKE BEES BUT I DON'T LIKE THE IDEA OF THIS AMOUNT OF BEES IN MY >GARDEN >AND WOULD LIKE THEM MOVED WITHOUT HARM TO THE BEES. > >I WOULD LIKE TO ASK YOU, WHO CAN I GET TO REMOVE THEM >IS THERE ANYONE IN MY AREA THAT COULD/WOULD DO IT I LIVE IN THE >STAFFORDSHIRE/WARWICKSHIRE AREA (UK). > >ARE THEY DANGEROUS, SHOULD I KEEP MY KIDS FROM PLAYING IN THE GARDEN, >AND IS >THERE ANYMORE ADVICE YOU CAN GIVE ME..............THANKS > > MOGGY > > > > Article 25443 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.qis.net!dca1-hub1.news.digex.net!intermedia!cyclone-sf.pbi.net!206.13.28.125!cyclone-transit.snfc21.pbi.net!216.218.192.242!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!WReNclone!WReNphoon3.POSTED!WReN!not-for-mail X-Originating-Host: 203.109.252.13 Organization: http://www.remarq.com: The World's Usenet/Discussions Start Here Subject: Re: Allergies Associated With Beekeeping Lines: 59 From: Ron Law Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Message-ID: <13025400.888b270a@usw-ex0104-033.remarq.com> References: <8hef1a$6jd$2@lure.pipex.net><8hgcnv$1ut$1@news.smartworld.net> <8ho2ar$rcg$1@mohawk.hwcn.org> Bytes: 2869 X-Wren-Trace: eAAlDQwVUhhTSgEMAFIOBzIaGBACSkMZSwIVQ1tESg5eVhlPXBVHQF1S Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 15:14:30 -0700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 10.0.2.36 X-Complaints-To: wrenabuse@remarq.com X-Trace: WReNphoon3 960676893 10.0.2.36 (Sat, 10 Jun 2000 15:41:33 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 15:41:33 PDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25443 A great deal has been said about allergies to bee products. Much of it has been driven by medical practitioners/scientists trying to establish a research profile, or to discredit complementary healthcare products in general. We have been able to prove that much of what has been written about royal jelly, for example, including in peer reviewed medical literature, is false, falsified and even fabricated with false conclusions being drawn. Two well publicised deaths in Australia have never been established as being caused by royal jelly scientifically. Two coroners were fed false, and retrospectively interpreted data. In a third case, medical records prove that the surfie did not die from an adverse reaction to royal jelly and official records show that officials knew that. These official records were withheld from circulation, and two official inquiries. There is a myth that people are allergic to bees. Again, this is simply that, a myth. If you are allergic to bee stings, for example, you will not be automatically allergic to royal jelly, bee pollen, propolis or even the bee itself. Its a bit like, people allergic to milk are not allergic to beef. There is no relationship in science between allergies to different bee products. There is no scientific evidence that asthmatics are more allergic to any bee product and they are not more prone to allergies from bee stings. It is simply a myth. For a scientific report commissioned by the New Zealand Government, go to Nick Wallingford's marvellous beekeeping site at http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/scirev.htm and read two reports -- one by a NZ Parliamentary Select Committee and the other by a 5-person scientific review panel. You'll be able to read risk analyses undertaken for bee pollen, propolis and royal jelly. They conclude that there was no scientific evidence of significant allergies to ingestion of bee pollen and propolis, that cautions statements relating to asthmatics only should be on royal jelly products, and that there is no evidence that any of the three deaths, alledged to have been caused by royal jelly, were, although there was an association with use in one. Given the billions (literally) of doses of all three products used around the world every year there is a remarkable absence of adverse reaction reports; the scientific review panel concluded that propolis and bee pollen were extremely safe and that the risk of adverse reactions to royal jelly was confined to asthmatics and that even then the risk was very low. As for the false, falsified and fabricated data, that's another story that is likely to result in scientific misconduct proceedings. RL * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet's Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free! Article 25444 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!newsfeed01.sul.t-online.de!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Ian Shaw" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Merseyside? Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 23:22:13 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 41 Message-ID: <8huehj$b4l$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <3936704A.2BEB1FCC@liv.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-82.francium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk 960675187 11413 62.136.63.82 (10 Jun 2000 22:13:07 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 10 Jun 2000 22:13:07 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.5 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25444 I'm not sure about the Liverpool area, but do know there are very active strong associations within Cheshire. I'm at an Apiary visit with our Association - Aberconwy and Colwyn - tomorrow and try and remember to ask for a cheshire contact, or if anyone knows of a Wirral or Liverpool one. There's plenty of time left for swarms as many will be delayed after our poor weather lately; a local beekeeper could easily provide you with a stock because of this. Good beekeeping! Ian Duncan Robertson wrote in message <3936704A.2BEB1FCC@liv.ac.uk>... >Hi Everyone, > >In conjunction with someone else, I am thinking of starting a hive in >Liverpool. Niether of us has ever done this before and we badly need >advice. Can any of you put us in touch with/provide contact details for >any Merseyside beekeeping associations. Whilst we are in the process of >an intense reading program, we both need to talk to experienced bee >keepers and if possible see a hive. > >Do you think we are too late in the year to start doing this? > >All information gratefully received (direct e-mail preferred) > >-- >Duncan H.L. Robertson >Senior Experimental Officer, >Dept. Veterinary Preclinical Sciences, >University of Liverpool, >Liverpool, >England. > >Phone: (UK) 0151 794 4231/5344 >Fax: (UK) 0151 794 4243 >e-mail: dhlr@liverpool.ac.uk > > Article 25445 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!news-feeds.jump.net!nntp2.giganews.com!nntp3.giganews.com!news6.giganews.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39403875.EE368F35@povn.com> From: "J.F.Hensler" X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win95; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Italian Queens References: <20000608201513.05980.00000136@ng-fc1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 16 NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 19:21:27 CDT Organization: Giganews.Com - Premium News Outsourcing X-Trace: sv2-0PQmL6WfiwOxQxUMaivBlnkMihdgd0XRDktkLs85uKN5epfHqSKLXl1ghN6VjESYCsu/0ZJay86PYpf!Wv8gUQWP9bWvAV1xDrREr+Y3ZA== X-Complaints-To: abuse@GigaNews.Com X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 17:21:09 -0700 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25445 BeeCrofter wrote: > > Are Italian Queens hairier? I hear the ones from Naples are... Skip -- Skip and Christy Hensler THE ROCK GARDEN Newport, Wash. http://www.povn.com/rock Article 25446 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Lines: 11 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 09 Jun 2000 00:22:23 GMT References: <39400373.4FE00979@club-internet.fr> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000608202223.05980.00000138@ng-fc1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25446 To light the smoker waxed donut shop bags burn nice and hot fast and then wood chips from the tree service guys burn long and cool. Add the chips slowly to the burning bag and pump. An inch or so of green just pulled grass will cool down smoke nicely. Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 25447 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!brick.direct.ca!brie.direct.ca.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Normand" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: honeysticks? Lines: 6 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Message-ID: Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 18:36:43 -0700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.244.87.9 X-Complaints-To: abuse@direct.ca X-Trace: brie.direct.ca 960514276 204.244.87.9 (Thu, 08 Jun 2000 18:31:16 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 18:31:16 PDT Organization: Internet Direct - http://www.mydirect.com Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25447 Does anybody know of a honeystick distributor in western Canada or northwest USA? I am interested in buying some for a display. Thanks Normand Article 25448 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!sdd.hp.com!enews.sgi.com!pln-w!spln!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!enews3 From: "gene/janice" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 20:34:52 -0700 Organization: http://extra.newsguy.com Lines: 16 Message-ID: <8hpq8k0ji0@enews3.newsguy.com> References: <393ec18f.2087150@news1.radix.net> <20000607212332.16804.00002216@ng-fk1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ridge.spiritone.com X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.71.1712.3 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.71.1712.3 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25448 I used a chainsaw to rip a dry holly log. Burns so nice and smells so nice but those long shavings sure burn and stick to the side of the smoker. Gene Blue Taz37 wrote in message <20000607212332.16804.00002216@ng-fk1.aol.com>... >> >>My favorite is holly planer shavings. >> > > Yeah, Me too. Try Pine shavings. Article 25449 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!pitt.edu!newsflash.concordia.ca!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!feeder.qis.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: herbcampb@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 10:35:16 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 31 Message-ID: <8hqh94$l74$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <39400373.4FE00979@club-internet.fr> <20000608202223.05980.00000138@ng-fc1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 152.163.197.186 X-Article-Creation-Date: Fri Jun 09 10:35:16 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; AOL 5.0; Windows 98; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x56.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 152.163.197.186 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDherbcampb Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25449 In article <20000608202223.05980.00000138@ng-fc1.aol.com>, beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) wrote: > To light the smoker waxed donut shop bags burn nice and hot fast and then wood > chips from the tree service guys burn long and cool. > Add the chips slowly to the burning bag and pump. > An inch or so of green just pulled grass will cool down smoke nicely. > > Tom > > There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com > Ahhhh, thanks, Tom. I wondered if anyone was going to mention putting green grass in top of the smoker to cool the smoke. Very important!! That's our routine. While I'm lighting the smoker my daughter collects grass, or other green stuff if grass is unavailable. Mostly we use scraps of wood, including some rotted wood, and leaves. We've heard that grapefruit leaves provide a calming effect on the bees but that information doesn't help most of us. We recently discovered that hay strings work well. The old-fashioned kind made from hemp and used to tie hay bales. Most modern balers use wire or plastic but some of the old hemp string is still around. We roll up 2 or 3 strings in a ball and put it in after the smoker is going. It smolders and lasts a long time. Also use scraps of cotton cloth. Sincerely, Herb Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25450 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!verio.MISMATCH!iad-peer.news.verio.net!news.verio.net!dfw-read.news.verio.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Reply-To: "Charles W." From: "Charles W." Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Foulbrood Lines: 11 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 08:55:30 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.96.184.188 X-Complaints-To: abuse@verio.net X-Trace: dfw-read.news.verio.net 960558931 204.96.184.188 (Fri, 09 Jun 2000 13:55:31 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 13:55:31 GMT Organization: Verio Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25450 I'm looking for a book called "Preventing American Foulbrood without the use of Drugs", or something close to that. It is a small yellow soft-back book. Does anybody know where I might find this book? It was supposedly advertised in an issue of Beekeepers Journal, but I have yet to find it. Any info on this would be appreciated. Thanks, Charles Georgetown, TX Article 25451 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!sn-xit-01!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "Teri Bachus" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Foulbrood Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 11:04:57 -0400 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 8 Message-ID: References: X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25451 beelieve you may find what you're looking for in the n.z.beekeepers website, an excellent resource at http://nba.org.nz/pms/manual/index.htm Article 25452 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: city ordinances Lines: 10 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 11 Jun 2000 04:23:54 GMT References: <394261FB.A99253D4@bellsouth.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000611002354.09698.00002138@ng-mf1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25452 Track down the Long Island Beekeepers association. They have a prettty good list of common sense urban beekeeping practices. Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 25453 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!attmtf!att542!att541!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: city ordinances Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 21:41:22 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 36 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust144.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8hv18o$1d4$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <394261FB.A99253D4@bellsouth.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust144.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25453 I'd like to say how much I liked this post. As beekeepers, we have to be sensitive to those we live with and sometimes we don't get our own way. If we behave well and don't make a scene, we usually get a second chance. People being people, we can usually recruit interest and support -- or at least tolerance -- from our neighbours. allen -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... I've quit counting... "Michael Franklin" wrote in message news:394261FB.A99253D4@bellsouth.net... > I live 5 minutes from downtown Ft. Lauderdale and have 1 hobby hive on a lot > that's 75'w x 125'd with a fenced backyard. I researched the city ordinances > which only pertained to the keeping of farm animals in an enclosure. My > neighbor decided (months after I'd already applied the "good neighbor rule" I > might add) that he had a problem with my hive. He called code enforcement who > issued me a citation for violating the ordinance about farm animals. It took > very little education with code enforcement before they revoked the citation > and gave me clearance to keep the hive.... Article 25454 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!info.usuhs.mil!uky.edu!atl-news-feed1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!saturn.ipass.net!not-for-mail Reply-To: "Jim" From: "Jim" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re-Queening Lines: 23 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 09:50:03 -0400 NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.170.132.20 X-Complaints-To: abuse@ipass.net X-Trace: saturn.ipass.net 960731509 209.170.132.20 (Sun, 11 Jun 2000 09:51:49 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 09:51:49 EDT Organization: iPass.Net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25454 Hello: About 1.5 months after installing a package, it looked like my queen was not laying. There began to be MANY drones in the hive. 9 days ago, I installed another queen ( I never found the original queen). After being in the queen box for 3 days, she was still in the box. I let her go down into the hive. Now, 9 days later, I can't find the queen, and there is still no brood. There are also robber bees starting to fight at the entrance. I put in the wooden opening to help the bees protect their honey stores. I will check the hive in another week to see if there is any brood. If there is not, what is everyone's recommendation? I'd rather not blow another $15 just to look at drones! Any suggestions are more than welcomed! Thanks, Jim Article 25455 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!attbtf!att542!att541!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A bit of info, please Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 07:05:51 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 14 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust169.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8i02an$1cl$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <393E9274.446C0BE2@formida.com> <393EC2FF.4498EC1@midwest.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust169.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25455 > Damp pine needles work better, once a fire is going in the smoker. This is true of burlap also. On hot dry days, and/or when we are using the smoker a lot, we sometimes dampen the top piece slightly to slow combustion and to cool the smoke. allen -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Article 25456 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmasters3!bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Howard Bowles" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: Subject: Re: city ordinances Lines: 55 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.5 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 16:40:16 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.73.105.229 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 960741616 12.73.105.229 (Sun, 11 Jun 2000 16:40:16 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 16:40:16 GMT Organization: AT&T Worldnet Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25456 Margaret, A part of the certification to become a journeyman beekeeper here in Washington State requires research of the city, county and state regulations that impact beekeepers. I was pleased to find that our county and state have fairly specific rules and regulations regarding just about every aspect of beekeeping. From the topic of suburban beekeeping to providing bees for pollination. I found all the ordinances, regulations and laws through the Internet. I suggest you start your search on the Internet for you county's or city's web page. There will probably be a link to the county or municipal code, then search for bees or beekeeping. Your topic may even be located under farm animals. If your search fails, call the local city or county government offices and ask. I have since learned that in the early 1980's a group of commercial and hobbyist beekeepers came together and wrote the regulations which were subsequently adopted by our county and state. This was quite an accomplishment. Our regulations are even specific as to the number of hives you may have on a given city lot size, the set-back from the property line, fencing requirements, etc. The regulations of course also cover the topics of pollination, diseased hives and bee pasture. Here in the south Puget Sound region (near the Puyallup River valley) beekeeping is still seen as a necessary adjunct to fruit and vegetable production. However, I am concerned that as the farmland is converted to other purposes, at alarming rates, beekeeping may be seen as a nuisance. We'll see. Good luck with your research, Howard __________________________________ Howard Bowles, CPA (WA) For replies, remove 'nospam' from address. Margaret Nichols wrote in message ... >I used to lurk here regularly, because although I have never had bees, I've >had the notion that maybe I could. > Some years ago, about the time I decided to take the plunge, a dear >neighbor was stung by a bee with very serious consequences, which very >effectively caused me to re-think my decision. > That dear neighbor is gone -- from other causes -- but now I'm wondering >if city ordinances exercise control over beekeeping. We have a large back >yard, which is contiguous with a wooded area, although we do have neighbors >on either side. > I'd appreciate reading any input from folks who keep bees in urban >areas. > Justpeace, Peg Nichols >rmnichols@kansascity.com > > > Article 25457 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.ksu.edu!nntp.ksu.edu!news.okstate.edu!not-for-mail From: Gary Johns Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: division feeder loc and upper entr hole size Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 09:32:21 -0500 Organization: Oklahoma State University Lines: 28 Message-ID: <393E5CF5.18ED7E63@okstate.edu> References: <8hjv7p$pjn$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: x8b4e76e3.dhcp.okstate.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25457 Ron asks: > Two questions: > > 1. Does it matter where the division feeder goes in the hive? I put my feeder in the frame position farthest from the nest (either the #1 position or the #10 position, depending on which side of the super your standing) > > 2. If I am going to drill a hole in the upper brood for the winter how > big should it be? Everything I've read says to make the hole 1". I've used 3/4" holes and they work fine for my location (Oklahoma - US). You could make a shim (Imrie?) to put above the top brood super or modify your inner cover so that there is an opening for the bees. I've used all three and the bees seem to don't care which. Gary J. > > > Article 25458 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!brick.direct.ca!brie.direct.ca.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Normand" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8hmcs5$g89$1@campus3.mtu.edu> Subject: Re: bears and bacon and electricity Lines: 4 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Message-ID: Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 06:51:41 -0700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.244.87.19 X-Complaints-To: abuse@direct.ca X-Trace: brie.direct.ca 960471974 204.244.87.19 (Thu, 08 Jun 2000 06:46:14 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 06:46:14 PDT Organization: Internet Direct - http://www.mydirect.com Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25458 Little pieces of red flagging tied up on wire works well too. Somehow bears like to chew on it. Article 25459 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!135.173.83.20!wnmasters3!bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Howard Bowles" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: Subject: Re: Re-Queening Lines: 42 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.5 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 21:12:52 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.73.107.84 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 960757972 12.73.107.84 (Sun, 11 Jun 2000 21:12:52 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 21:12:52 GMT Organization: AT&T Worldnet Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25459 Need a little more information... How many deeps did you install the package into? Were the frames drawn or foundation? Did you feed the bees when you installed the package? What has your weather been like when you installed and since? Is your main nectar source in bloom? Did you ever see eggs in any of the frames, at any time since the installation? Howard Bowles Jim wrote in message ... >Hello: > >About 1.5 months after installing a package, it looked like my queen was not >laying. There began to be MANY drones in the hive. 9 days ago, I installed >another queen ( I never found the original queen). After being in the queen >box for 3 days, she was still in the box. I let her go down into the hive. > >Now, 9 days later, I can't find the queen, and there is still no brood. >There are also robber bees starting to fight at the entrance. I put in the >wooden opening to help the bees protect their honey stores. > >I will check the hive in another week to see if there is any brood. > >If there is not, what is everyone's recommendation? I'd rather not blow >another $15 just to look at drones! > >Any suggestions are more than welcomed! > >Thanks, >Jim > > > Article 25460 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!1cust174.tnt38.dfw5.da.uu.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: NEED HELP IN ENGLAND Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 16:27:09 -0500 Lines: 3 Message-ID: References: <394013D6.2466D053@uidaho.edu> Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: 1cust174.tnt38.dfw5.da.uu.net (63.17.167.174) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 960758831 4070188 63.17.167.174 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25460 This is good luck. C.K. Article 25461 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!gxsn.com!not-for-mail From: Steve Newport Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How long before new queen does her thing Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 22:32:22 +0100 Organization: GXSN Lines: 7 Message-ID: <6q08kskndvaantgoa93edk2lfg6sql2hfl@4ax.com> References: <4mS$zMAhZrO5Ew59@kilty.demon.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: 195.147.171.93 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: 960759680 1NNUCNF1GAB5DC393C gxsn.com X-Complaints-To: abuse@gxsn.com X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25461 Just a side question if I may. Is this because there is brrod to raise? If there is no queen then the bees stop bringing in pollen? On Sun, 4 Jun 2000 21:04:49 +0100, James Kilty wrote: >If pollen is coming in there is a queen. Article 25462 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: AL Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: 4-H Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 23:49:36 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 15 Message-ID: <3941C8E0.F1C546FE@midwest.net> References: <13836-3941BC82-33@storefull-216.iap.bryant.webtv.net> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25462 Shari wrote: > > Hello. I am not a beekeeper but my daughter is enrolled in a beekeeping > project this year. Today we went to a beekeepers home for a workshop. > She had a wonderful time and learned a great deal from them. She is > working on her written part of the project now and will need some help > with questions. I hope that some of you could help with any that we are > unable to find elsewhere. Thanks Wow! You just invited a whole bunch of beekeepers to offer their opinions - get ready, you'll write volumes:) AL Article 25463 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!feeder.qis.net!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!attbtf!att542!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: division feeder loc and upper entr hole size Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 00:11:53 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 20 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust146.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8hslmu$5t9$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <8hjv7p$pjn$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <39415290.E8AACE70@cornell.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust146.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25463 > > 1. Does it matter where the division feeder goes in the hive? > > At one side or the other of the hive body, usually. Against the wall. > > Another question I've had is: > Where in a double-brood-chamber hive is the best place for such an > in-hive feeder? We keep one in the upper and one in the lower. That way there is always one on top, and we can feed two if we like. Don't worry about loss of space. There is too much room in a double brood chamber anyhow. allen -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Article 25464 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!newsfeed.icl.net!colt.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!qichina.demon.co.uk!not-for-mail From: Godfrey Bartlett Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: 4-H Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 10:25:23 +0100 Message-ID: <39420983.66C1490C@qichina.demon.co.uk> References: <13836-3941BC82-33@storefull-216.iap.bryant.webtv.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: qichina.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: qichina.demon.co.uk:194.222.176.192 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 960629159 nnrp-12:2618 NO-IDENT qichina.demon.co.uk:194.222.176.192 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 16 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25464 Hi, You might find Graham & Annie Law's Frequently Asked Questions useful. It's at : http://www.gandboss.demon.co.uk/bee_faq.htm Godfrey Bartlett http://www.qichina.demon.co.uk/ebka/ --- Shari wrote: > > Hello. I am not a beekeeper but my daughter is enrolled in a beekeeping > project this year. Today we went to a beekeepers home for a workshop. > She had a wonderful time and learned a great deal from them. She is > working on her written part of the project now and will need some help > with questions. I hope that some of you could help with any that we are > unable to find elsewhere. Thanks Article 25465 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-feed.fnsi.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.atl.bellsouth.net.MISMATCH!newsfeed.atl!news4.atl.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39426290.CAB49B80@bellsouth.net> From: Michael Franklin Reply-To: msfranklin@geocities.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 (Macintosh; U; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: 4-H References: <13836-3941BC82-33@storefull-216.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 15 Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 11:45:22 -0400 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.77.214.31 X-Trace: news4.atl 960651922 216.77.214.31 (Sat, 10 Jun 2000 11:45:22 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 11:45:22 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25465 I got started with FFA. Good luck to your daughter, and feel free to post any specific questions you and she have. Michael Shari wrote: > Hello. I am not a beekeeper but my daughter is enrolled in a beekeeping > project this year. Today we went to a beekeepers home for a workshop. > She had a wonderful time and learned a great deal from them. She is > working on her written part of the project now and will need some help > with questions. I hope that some of you could help with any that we are > unable to find elsewhere. Thanks Article 25466 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: russ1026@webtv.net (Shari) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: 4-H Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 22:56:50 -0500 (EST) Organization: WebTV Subscriber Lines: 7 Message-ID: <13836-3941BC82-33@storefull-216.iap.bryant.webtv.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAsAhRmdT6xPCEHR7BhC7hv+dx5ZT+z1wIUBETESSNIxuF4QNuDhkIQjAk7lKU= Content-Disposition: Inline Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.sgi.com!news.spies.com!webtv.net!not-for-mail Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25466 Hello. I am not a beekeeper but my daughter is enrolled in a beekeeping project this year. Today we went to a beekeepers home for a workshop. She had a wonderful time and learned a great deal from them. She is working on her written part of the project now and will need some help with questions. I hope that some of you could help with any that we are unable to find elsewhere. Thanks Article 25467 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!newsfeed01.sul.t-online.de!newsmm00.btx.dtag.de!t-online.de!news.t-online.com!not-for-mail From: "H. Tennigkeit" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: h.tennigkeit@oxgall.com Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 12:14:55 +0200 Organization: Ox - Gallstone GmbH Lines: 12 Message-ID: <8htkkk$iag$18$1@news.t-online.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Trace: news.t-online.com 960648661 18 18768 02286440222-0001 000610 14:51:01 X-Complaints-To: abuse@t-online.de X-Sender: 02286440222-0001@t-dialin.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25467 Dear Sirs, we buy a beeswax 20 t /monthly. If you can offer us CIF Hamburg, Germany, pleasé contact us per fax +49-228-644 0 223. Many thanks for your reply Best regards H&E Tennigkeit Article 25468 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!WReNclone!WReNphoon3.POSTED!WReN!not-for-mail X-Originating-Host: 152.163.201.68 Organization: http://www.remarq.com: The World's Usenet/Discussions Start Here Subject: Re: honeysticks? Lines: 6 From: Beekeeper Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Message-ID: <0321cf72.234ede4f@usw-ex0104-028.remarq.com> References: Bytes: 264 X-Wren-Trace: ePDV/fzlouijsuH997nrrbbD4fr5urPp+LyupququOasuOKhr/6zpg== Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 18:43:15 -0700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 10.0.2.28 X-Complaints-To: wrenabuse@remarq.com X-Trace: WReNphoon3 960774947 10.0.2.28 (Sun, 11 Jun 2000 18:55:47 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 18:55:47 PDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25468 You can buy honeysticks from Glorybee in Eugene OR, 1 800 456- 7923 There web site is www.glorybee.com Rich * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet's Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free! Article 25469 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed1.swip.net!swipnet!nntpserver.swip.net!not-for-mail From: "STIG HANSSON" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <25504-3942A3C7-70@storefull-214.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Subject: SV: 4-H ?s Lines: 18 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 07:57:11 +0200 NNTP-Posting-Host: 212.151.182.222 X-Complaints-To: news-abuse@swip.net X-Trace: nntpserver.swip.net 960789432 212.151.182.222 (Mon, 12 Jun 2000 07:57:12 MET DST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 07:57:12 MET DST Organization: A Customer of Tele2 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25469 > 1. What is meant by the term crossed comb? (korsande vaxkaka) Not quite sure what you mean, but probably a "wild" comb which the bees have built between the normal comb in the frames. > 2.Why is it necessary that the broad frame size foundation be > reinforced, but not the shallow extracting frame size foundation? (I wish my English was better... : ) ) What is broad&shallow? Thick&thin? In that case I guess, if you try to reinforce a thin foundation with a wire (you usually heat the wire and place the wax over it and let it melt down) the wax foundation will break while melting. With a thicker foundation you can stop the heating of the wire, when the wire is inside the wax. If I misunderstood the questions I'd be happy to get some comments... Article 25470 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Quick Question Lines: 16 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 12 Jun 2000 14:18:19 GMT References: <8i1tbc$434c$1@newssvr05-en0.news.prodigy.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000612101819.26501.00003819@ng-fm1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25470 From: "RLNC" rlnc@prodigy.net >bet them that it was probably possible for a farmer/grower to purchase bees >for the purpose of pollination for his/her crops--rather than just relying >on nature to provide them. They say no way. Who is correct? Farmers buy solitary bees (orchard mason, horn faced, leafcutter) and bumble bees for pollination. While a very few growers purchase honeybees, most rent them. See the page below: Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25471 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "Teri Bachus" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Success with Russian Queens part 2 Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 11:59:34 -0400 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 5 Message-ID: References: X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25471 see this posting on the bee-list for photos/discussion on apparent non-attractiveness of russian vs.buckfast queens in mailing cages at: http://listserv.albany.edu/cgi-bin/wa?A2=ind0006b&L=bee-l&F=&S=&P=2918 Article 25472 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!btnet-peer0!btnet!mendelevium.btinternet.com!not-for-mail From: Paul Hirons Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Beekeeping UK Club Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 11:54:41 +0100 Organization: BT Internet Lines: 14 Message-ID: <39436FF1.7E0C6E73@btinternet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: host213-1-82-135.btinternet.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en-gb]C-CCK-MCD NetscapeOnline.co.uk (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en-GB,en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25472 If anyones interested in putting up scanned images of beelkeeping, stories about Beekeeping or articles of any sort then please post them up on Beekeeping UK at the following address: http://clubs.excite.com/welcome/main?cid=190223 I would welcome any submission from any Beekeeping source, trade or amateur. Best wishes Paul Hirons Article 25473 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Message-ID: <39451B3E.64EA2EA5@cybertours.com> Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:17:50 -0400 From: Midnite Bee Reply-To: midnitebee@cybertours.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: web update Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit NNTP-Posting-Host: 64.208.65.121 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 64.208.65.121 X-Trace: 12 Jun 2000 13:13:50 -0500, 64.208.65.121 Lines: 18 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.98.63.6 Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.cybertours.com!64.208.65.121 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25473 Greetings! Articles page has been updated: http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee/contentpages/articles.html -- Herb/Norma Holly-B Apiary PO Box 26 Wells,Maine 04090-0026 "an educated consumer is YOUR best customer" The Beekeeper's Home on the Internet http://www.mainebee.com Stony Critters http://www.stonycritters.com Article 25474 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.via.net!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!WReNclone!WReNphoon4.POSTED!WReN!not-for-mail From: wordsmith Subject: COPY WRITING SERVICES Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Message-ID: <0d9501a8.4db85423@usw-ex0109-069.remarq.com> Lines: 7 Bytes: 351 X-Originating-Host: 152.163.195.208 Organization: http://www.remarq.com: The World's Usenet/Discussions Start Here X-Wren-Trace: eCkMJCU8ezF6ajw1KXolIS8uGS0jISc8Iyhme3VvfjhwfCd5fjxydXVw Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 11:35:41 -0700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 10.0.2.69 X-Complaints-To: wrenabuse@remarq.com X-Trace: WReNphoon4 960835813 10.0.2.69 (Mon, 12 Jun 2000 11:50:13 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 11:50:13 PDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25474 Need help with effective text for your web site, advertising, brochures, etc.? Put my many years' experience to work. Please visit: Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Tupelo Honey Lines: 17 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:59:32 -0400 NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.8.130.110 X-Trace: eagle.america.net 960833105 12.8.130.110 (Mon, 12 Jun 2000 14:05:05 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 14:05:05 EDT Organization: 24hoursupport.com Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25475 Buffalo Creek Honey Farm has been in operation since 1977. Father's Day Gift Box: Made Especially for the Hard to Buy for Dad, That Has All the Shirts and Ties He Can Ever Use. The baskets are made for all ages from the very young to the senior citizen. We have baskets for all kinds of people from the sick and shut-in to the most robust Outdoorsman. SEE US ONLINE AT http://www.buffalocreekhoney.com queenbee@buffalocreekhoney.com Article 25476 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!feeder.via.net!newshub2.rdc1.sfba.home.com!news.home.com!news1.rdc1.mb.home.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Greg" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Agressive?? Lines: 4 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 20:36:58 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.66.74.251 X-Complaints-To: abuse@home.net X-Trace: news1.rdc1.mb.home.com 960842218 24.66.74.251 (Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:36:58 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:36:58 PDT Organization: @Home Network Canada Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25476 One of my hives have become very agressive suddenly, can anyone think of what this might be a symptom of?? Article 25477 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!news.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "Dusty Bleher" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: What a disaster! (long) Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:46:26 -0700 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 179 Message-ID: References: <393E9274.446C0BE2@formida.com> <393EC2FF.4498EC1@midwest.net> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25477 Thanks again to all of you for your valuable tips. I ended up purchasing burlap at a local fabric shop. I would have liked to try the rotten wood, but that's kind of hard to come by around here... The burlap was hard to get lit. I think I rolled it too tight. But once going, that load burned for nearly 6 hours. I think that I'm going to purchase and use one of those commercial "fuel" pellets. I don't do this for a living, and I won't be doing it a lot. I just want something that will quickly and easily light when I need it... Anyway, the reason I sent the original note was because we were getting ready to rescue some bees. Let me set the stage. First jump back 40 or so years. As a teenaged kid, I used to work several hives with an adult neighbor who "gave" them to me... Jump back to a few weeks ago; as the realtor representing my very elderly neighbor selling her house, notices bees coming in and out of a hole in the eaves of my house. Please don't think that I'm an ignorant dip-stick for not noticing them earlier. That eave/wall is on a "zero lot line" (very common here). Translation: on our side, the wall is a garage, atrium, and bedroom (it's all blank--no openings of any kind). On her side it's the front surface of her property line. While we've always had good relations with her, I never really went over there to inspect the blank side of my house. So I didn't know that there were bees in the ceiling and wall or our bedroom. As an old women, she rarely got outside any more. And while still mentally sharp and lucid, failing sight and hearing would have precluded her from noticing anything anyway. The buyer has several little kids. Through the realtor I learned that he was not comfortable with them being so close. So I knew that I had to get them out. Besides that, I had priced several beekeeper/exterminator types, and found the cost of doing this unacceptably high (upwards of $300), with no upper limit because they would have to tear apart the house to get them out. Cleaning and restoration couldn't even be estimated. They were going to kill the bees. Having had bees in the past, I was reluctant to just waste them. So-o-o, I decided to get all of the tools and equipment and start up a new hive with those guys. I thought that I would simply open the wall, and relocate them into it, keeping it on my roof (it's a flat roof). It seemed to be a fun thing to do with my kids and grand kids (wife thought it was a neat idea too). In order to get some expert perspective on this problem, I sought out a local beekeeper experienced in matters of this kind. I figured that with his guidance, I'd be able to recover both my prior skills and a fine new set of bees too. We carefully planned the time and date, and right at the appointed time, he showed up with hives, suits, veils and all that... Unfortunately, the local extermination company shown up an hour earlier and was well on the way to tenting and fumigating her house (for those of you far away, this isn't unusual and is pretty well required when selling an older house here in California). This meant that we couldn't be there in her yard at that time. My friendly beekeeper left and said he would be back in a few days... Due to schedule matching and conflicts, a few days became a few weeks... But the urgency of this bee move came to a head when I got to meet my new neighbor--as he was having an animated conversation with an exterminator that he had contacted to kill the bees. The exterminator couldn't because it wasn't his house, that's how I got involved in the conversation. The new neighbor is fresh off the boat from the far east, so English and our discussions--while friendly and congenial--were difficult. He thought that because of how the house was situated, he was responsible for that surface, and he just needed to have the bees killed (he thought they were wasps) as they were moving in, in three days time. Yikes! Time for action! A quick call to my beekeeper friend finds him with a dead truck, and 35 calls in queue. He can't be there before mid next week. Damn! Gotta do it myself. And this is where the fun begins... We organized and planned everything, and finally suited up. The day turned out to be remarkably cold (boy were we ever glad) and dismal. We had had a rain the night before (something virtually unheard of in this part of Ca. at this time of year). We smoked them heavily, and opened the wall. Man, I've never seen so many bees boil out of one open plank in all my life. The smoke kept them pretty well under control, but because everything was crammed into areas around joists, stringers, rafters, and such, nothing was well organized enough to find and capture the queen. I managed to grab a large ball of bees and move them into the new hive. But through the smoke, the sweat running into my eyes, and the swirling mass of bees, I couldn't be certain that I'd found her. Although I've seen and can identify a queen, it's a lot easier when you have an organized hive, and nice, clean, easy to survey, comb frames that you can turn over in your hand as she scurries about. Pulling off the boards broke combs. Cutting and pulling out the combs broke them too. In no time at all we were covered with and slippery with honey, crushed brood combs, and squashed bees. What a mess! You can only do so much reaching in with one arm at a time (all the way to my arm pits) trying to pull out comb, dripping honey everywhere, crushing bees by the thousands... It was no fun at all. When we'd taken as much as we could reach, we covered the area with paper, leaving a small hole through which any trapped bees could escape. Over the paper I nailed temporary boards (it looked like rain, again). I checked the hive several times, but couldn't determine if I'd gotten the queen. At this point it really didn't matter. I either did or didn't. If I did, I hoped that the queen would rally her troops in her new digs, and those troops would enter the old digs to clean up the honey. Between vacuuming and scraping, we thought we'd got the majority of them. End of day 1. Day two dawned clear and sunny. Given that I couldn't reach all the combs, and we could hear bees still in there, we decided that the next route of attack would be through our bedroom wall. We disassembled and moved a 700lb. oak bed, laid and taped down a plastic carpet cover, and hung plastic sheeting from the wall to the exterior sliding door--dividing the room roughly in two. We suited up, and dove in. Using a hammer, I began to pound the sheetrock and made an opening. We pumped in the smoke. You could hear the tone of the bees, they were less than very happy.... Next thing we noticed was that indoors the smoke doesn't dissipate. So here we are, sweating our butts off, choking on smoke, with a half a million angry bees looking for someone to love... To make a very long story shorter, we ended opening the wall from ceiling to floor, in an 8ft X 8ft. area. The wall was full of comb, broken comb from the previous day, and about 2 feet of what I guess must have been bee doo-doo--some sort of fuzzy yellowish stuff. Honey and half-dead bees were everywhere. We scraped and vacuumed, but seemed to make no headway at all. Yesterday, we'd moved the hive a few feet from the old hole, put on a queen excluder, and placed as much of the best brood and pollen comb as we could find and handle into the upper box. I'd set up a feeder and hoped I'd done this okay (given that I was 40 years out of practice). Even with our care, honey was all over everything. I know that at least some of the brood comb had honey on them. There was no way to avoid it, we were covered and slippery with honey... We had hoped that in case we didn't get her yesterday, that we'd find the queen today. Nada! So I went back up and checked the box... Nada too! A lot of sticky honey covered bees, but NO queen! At least the problem became simpler: the hive was lost! So now it became a matter of cleaning up and regretfully having to kill the remaining bees. The neighbor had 4 gardeners standing around (when they weren't running for their lives from the bees), and was clearly less than pleased that they couldn't work, and he couldn't move in. I took out the old wasp and hornet spray, and doused them where I could see them, and air-bomb sprayed where I couldn't. In about 20 min. only a few hardy survivors could be found. What I learned: 1) Exactly 60 seconds after we opened the eave, we were beaten. We and our tools were covered with honey, and it was impossible to work with a purpose. The tools kept slipping out of our hands, and everything we touched turned to slime. I lost track of the number of times I had to climb down off of the scaffold to recover hive tool, hammer, and pry-bars... 2) The bees knew the layout far better then we. They scurried off to places between the wood that we could never follow. We vacuumed them up as best we could. But we were little better than the boy whose finger is in the dike... 3) If I ever have to do this again, I'm going to kill them first, and then open up from the inside, working from the bottom up to keep from having the stuff drip down and collectively add to the mess below. 4) That it's possible to have a hive that yields more than 145 pounds of honey and wax in the eves and wall of your house. We separated our booty into nice clean comb honey (#1), from mixed comb (brood and honey, #2), and comb that was woven into (and contaminated by) tar paper, insulation, plaster, stucco, and other materials found in the walls (#3). The first group we greedily ate and enjoyed. The second was going to be melted down and filtered to recover the honey, and wax. The third was going to be melted down only for the wax. 5) Never leave your comb smelter unattended. The mixed comb and honey (the second group) was in a large two handled porcelain over metal pan. I put in an outdoor barbeque oven. Turned it on warm (around 150-70F) constantly checking the temperature. Things were going well. A light chilly breeze was blowing, and the temp was holding steady. Evening fell, the cold southerly breeze swung around to the north and warmed up. Now the house was blocking it. That meant that the cooling breeze had stopped. THE NEXT MORNING I remembered the oven. Ran outside, and found temp around 325F, boiled over honey, wax, and bees and bee parts all through the barbeque, and a honey, wax, grease, and soot flavored puddle slowly spreading across my patio from the grease trap overflow... After turning off the BBQ, the stuff collapsed into a charred caramelized mass of material resembling tar in both color and texture. 6) New hive tools are surprisingly sharp. I have the decorations and bandages to prove it. 7) A honey soaked bee brush does not move bees well. 8) For the $600 or so, so far, I could have bought a lot of honey... That's exclusive of: paint, sprayer, texture applicator, carpet shampooing, eave siding, and three more days of putting on layers of sheetrock mud between sandings. 9) Three day old bee suits continue to look good even after 4 full fledged wash cycles. 10) Being a grandfather beekeeper is a lot harder then I remember it being at 14... So, what fun and exciting things did you do this weekend? Later all, Dusty Bleher San Jose, Ca. Article 25478 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeeds.nerdc.ufl.edu!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Agressive?? Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 14:15:04 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 9 Message-ID: <394552D8.7EDC1028@uidaho.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 960844996 21134 129.101.81.41 (12 Jun 2000 21:23:16 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 12 Jun 2000 21:23:16 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25478 Older bees are typiciall more aggressive.... is there a queen? Could also do with you smelling like your smoker. Are they aggressive to you or to evberybody? Greg wrote: > One of my hives have become very agressive suddenly, can anyone think of > what this might be a symptom of?? Article 25479 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39455148.2593621B@cornell.edu> From: JGinNY Reply-To: jwg6@cornell.edu X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Agressive?? References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 36 Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 21:03:20 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.237.107 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 960843800 24.92.237.107 (Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:03:20 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:03:20 EDT Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25479 Greg wrote: > One of my hives have become very agressive suddenly, can anyone think of > what this might be a symptom of?? This commonly happens when a nectar flow cuts off, and a dearth ensues. Some colonies will exhibit this sort of "crabbiness" more than others, over the course of the productive season. Another possiblility is that the colony superseded their queen, and the progeny of the new queen have an inherited agressiveness that wasn't present in the previous queen's workers. However, one wouldn't expect this type of change to be so abrupt. (Were they fine a few weeks ago?) I have heard from veteran beekeepers that stress caused by a case of _disease_ can cause a colony to suddenly become very aggressive. Don't know how reliable this is, or how direct the connection, but you might double-check for brood diseases (such as foulbrood), mites, etc. BTW, I have one colony that came into Spring condition with a "new" aggressiveness reminiscent of the films about Africanized bees. Real "pelters!" I don't know what got into them. Perhaps they superseded last Fall, late. They are really hot-headed and nervous. That queen is getting the heave-ho, and soon, but it's too bad -- her laying pattern is remarkable -- one of the most solid and expansive I have ever seen! Just solid slabs of fine worker brood, practically filling entire deep combs. "Wood to wood," as they say. Hopefully as summer comes on and nectar becomes more plentiful, your colony will be back to their old sweet disposition! good luck... Joel Article 25480 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: Pete Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Dronelaying workers? Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 21:42:31 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 29 Message-ID: <8i3lg4$o8b$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.152.6.97 X-Article-Creation-Date: Mon Jun 12 21:42:31 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.7 [en]C-CCK-MCD snapN45b1 (Win95; U) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x73.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 216.152.6.97 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDhrogers000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25480 "STIG HANSSON" > How do I get rid of those egg-laying workers? >or Is there a way of making the bees accept a new queen (or a capped >queen cell)? > Doris ********************************************************** Howdy Doris -- For either drone laying queen (which you may have) or laying workers the rule of thumb is to take the hive 20-30 yards away and shake all bees off into tall grass so that the drone laying queen or laying workers will not make it back to home base. Then evaluate the colony to determine whether it is worth giving a queen, giving eggs for them to raise one, or combining with another colony. If the problem has existed for an extended period of time, it is usually best to combine. Pete So much to learn - So little time ! ************************************************** Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25481 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.vt.edu!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!newshub2.rdc1.sfba.home.com!news.home.com!news1.rdc1.mb.home.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Greg" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: swarming Lines: 9 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 23:46:39 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.66.74.251 X-Complaints-To: abuse@home.net X-Trace: news1.rdc1.mb.home.com 960853599 24.66.74.251 (Mon, 12 Jun 2000 16:46:39 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 16:46:39 PDT Organization: @Home Network Canada Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25481 I'm a new beekeeper. Recently both my hives swarmed. They weren't crowded because they still had foundation to draw out. There were queen cells in both but I had taken off the cells the week before. Could it be because they're in the shade from about 11 am till dark?? Any help would br great. Article 25482 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!newscore.gigabell.net!newsfeed.icl.net!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp3.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Ed" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: Subject: Re: Success with Russian Queens part 2 Lines: 25 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: <2Zd15.2508$PZ5.51872@nntp3.onemain.com> Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 18:08:13 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.80.176.114 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp3.onemain.com 960850878 216.80.176.114 (Mon, 12 Jun 2000 19:01:18 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 19:01:18 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25482 Thanks very much for the information! I didn't notice any difference in Queen acceptance of the hives I requeened with Russians. Since all the Russian Queens I received were black, it is little doubt that they survived. So far, my Russian Queens are performing very well with brood patterns identical to my 3 banded Italians. The only difference that I see so far is that they seem noticeably less stressed and nervous (maybe due to less varroa). It remains for me to see if they have tangible resistance to varroa. Best Wishes, -- Ed "Barkin' like tha big dawgs an stayin' on tha porch!" http://www.geocites.com/RainForest/Canopy/1436/ Teri Bachus wrote in message news:ska2i93fh5129@corp.supernews.com... > see this posting on the bee-list for photos/discussion on apparent > non-attractiveness of russian vs.buckfast queens in mailing cages at: > http://listserv.albany.edu/cgi-bin/wa?A2=ind0006b&L=bee-l&F=&S=&P=2918 > > Article 25483 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com> Subject: Re: Honey Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 20:23:04 -0500 Lines: 17 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.72 Message-ID: <39458b5b$1_1@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 12 Jun 2000 21:16:11 -0400, 208.24.176.72 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.72 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25483 sorry 2 gals off one hive. Larry "Larry W" wrote in message news:39453036$1_2@news.vic.com... > Since many of us in this NG could be classified as hobbyist 1 - 6 hives, Im > wondering what you do with your honey? I got about 6 gals off one hive and > am fixing to get about 10 more gallons off my other 3. > > Larry > > > Article 25484 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: kamtout@together.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Swarms and Queen Cells Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 01:45:20 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 27 Message-ID: <8i43nd$1u1$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.13.202.234 X-Article-Creation-Date: Tue Jun 13 01:45:20 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.5 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x58.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 208.13.202.234 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDkamtout Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25484 This is for anyone who's dealt with swarming. I'm well aware of the crowding causes. I had a hive about a month ago that was by all accounts enormous for this time of year. They had crowded a bit an started about 3 cells,eggs and week old larvae. I mushed them all and added supers. They blew out a 6 frame swarm 3 weeks ago which I was forunate to capture. Today they tossed another one of the same size, which I also caught. I found the queen in it by dumping them on a box with an exluder on top and found what looked like a virgin and that's the only one I found. So far so good. I inspected the hive that's been puking bees and discovered no less than 2 dozen queen cells, most low on the frame (swarm) and several high in the combs (supersedure) All queens had left the cells or killed I presume. No living cells anyway. Now comes the question. I searched hi and lo for the queen in the remaining colony which is at least one very full deep super of bees and found maybe 3 frames of capped worker cells and not 1 egg did I find in 20 frames of looking. Is it usual that they swarm and not have left an active queen? I'll arrange to visit it again later this week but shouldn't there be a box full of brood when they split? I can fix the queenless part in a short while. but I'm puzzled any seasoned swarm fighters please respond... Mike Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25485 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.cwix.com!atlas.lcc.net!usenet From: "nomad" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: swarming Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 20:47:57 -0500 Organization: LCC Internet Lines: 32 Message-ID: <8i43v9$fc8@atlas.lcc.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: ncgd-pri5-a30.txucom.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25485 Ouch, I have been told that bees should get a good amount of sun from dawn onward, with some shade during the really hot part of the day. I have also been told that bees kept in great amounts of shade get mean and get hard to work. I was going to keep a couple of hives in my backyard in an old dog pen (with a concrete floor) but it received only dappled sun the whole day.(see it: http://profiles.yahoo.com/apiarius) After both my packages absconded, I decided to set up my operation in my parents sunny backyard. (I now have 6 hives) Now, the only problem I have is that two of my hives have had massive amounts bees hanging on the "porch" and front. This has been going on for weeks. The hives in question are double brood chambered with one medium super (I also have one "imire" shim and the telescopic cover proped up for air). I think the entrance is a small opening (but the bb isn't reversible), "Greg" wrote in message news:zDe15.353$hb7.896@news1.rdc1.mb.home.com... > I'm a new beekeeper. Recently both my hives swarmed. They weren't crowded > because they still had foundation to draw out. There were queen cells in > both but I had taken off the cells the week before. Could it be because > they're in the shade from about 11 am till dark?? Any help would br great. > > > > > Article 25486 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: kamtout@together.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Foulbrood Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 02:07:56 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 31 Message-ID: <8i451j$2nc$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <39419971.9C943B35@sympatico.ca> <8hspgm$bou$1@news.smartworld.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.13.202.234 X-Article-Creation-Date: Tue Jun 13 02:07:56 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.5 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x51.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 208.13.202.234 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDkamtout Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25486 Although you may feel some sort of radical measures might eliminate this particular disease, nothing short of a nuclear blast will do it. I have been fortunate for 7 years to have never seen it. I haven't used terramycin for 3 years. I did this spring as a just in case sort of thing. Used equipment to be sure is very risky if you have no history on it. One thing that you may not have heard is that this particular bacterium lives in the feces of the wax moth. So you take a hive that's dead and the wax moths get into it and say in the spring your bees decide they're going to rob the honey out of it and voila. Instant outbreak. Keep the combs out of the wax moths reach and it'll do a lot to keep that vector from being used. I've used used equipment but I don't use frames but burn (destroy)them in a garbage can. Then I flame out the insides of supers that I use. Make a chimney out of 4-5 deeps on a dumpy bottom board sprinkle in about a 1/2 cup of gasoline and 3or4 open sheets of newspaper in the bottom and light it. It sounds sort of like a jet engine if your doing it right. It also seems wrong. the propolis runs like water, the insides get black and if the paint starts to bubble it's getting late! the best burns last about 25-45 seconds any longer and you probably should get marshmallows and a stick. then put the hose to 'em. I then scrape the ash off and put new rests in.(take the old ones out before you burn.) This method is described in 1950's photos in the ABC's of bee culture by A.I.ROOT. So foulbrood's not the bees fault entirely. Mike Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25487 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!news.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "Dusty Bleher" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What a disaster! (long) Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 08:33:37 -0700 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 50 Message-ID: References: <393E9274.446C0BE2@formida.com> <393EC2FF.4498EC1@midwest.net> <394567db.2565272@news1.radix.net> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25487 wrote in message news:394567db.2565272@news1.radix.net... > On Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:46:26 -0700, "Dusty Bleher" > wrote: > > >What I learned: > >1) Exactly 60 seconds after we opened the eave, we were beaten. We and our > > > What you should have learned: > $300.00 to have them removed was a real bargin! In the glare of 20-20 hindsight, that is indeed an astute observation...(:-)! OTOH; the $300 was only to have the bees removed. I would still have had to pay for the repair and do the clean up work. At least this way I got a new hive, tools, suits, and can continue to do beekeeping. Last night I checked the hive, and for sure--no queen! But it looks like some of the surviving workers have drawn out a couple of queen cells. I'm torn between waiting for them, or just buying a queen. The problem is, that'll put me well into August before things start to turn. As of this moment, I'm going to go with a new queen. I'll probably order her today or tomorrow... > > Since your neighbor wanted them removed he should have been approched > to pay the bill. I am in a similar situation. I have bees on a To some degree I agree with you. We've been fortunate to have caring and considerate neighbors for all these years. That's quite a statement in our ever less personally connected society. I think that if that expenditure keeps us good neighbors, it will have been worth it... Only time will tell. It's hard to have a meaningful and intelligent conversation when you're conversing by hand signs, grunts, and pig-English. But it's pretty clear that he didn't know that it was my house, and consequently my responsibility to take care of the bees. He also didn't seem to know that they were bees. He thought they were wasps. I guess in Taiwan they have some sort of nasty wasp similar in size. He thought they were like that. When he found out the were simple honey bees, he didn't really know what to do or say. I guess eating honey isn't a big thing over there... Anyway, they're gone, and he's happy. The only thing left to do (outside) is repair the eave skirting on that side of the house. But the weather man tells us that today is going to be a scorcher...so the house can wait... Dusty Bleher San Jose, Ca. Article 25488 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.Arizona.EDU!not-for-mail From: John Edwards Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 12:00:03 -0700 Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Lines: 32 Message-ID: <394684B1.7A9464A9@tucson.ars.ag.gov> References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <20000613082848.07053.00003638@ng-cc1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: feral-bee.tucson.ars.ag.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en,pdf Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25488 Dave Green wrote: > I am concerned about the arrival of the africanized bees. What to do then? > Maybe I'll don the bee suit and put ice in the pockets? Dave, you might look into the yellowish "Michelin-Man" suit that someone in the southern U.S. has marketed and shown at bee meetings over the years - we had one - it looks puffy, but allows air to pass through quite well in Tucson. The only drawback was that it tended to snag on branches. Sorry I don't know the brand name. This is an area (beesuits) that could really use some redesign work. All you need is something holey that will hold the outer layer a safe distance away from your skin and have holes small enough to keep bees out of your britches. There is an advantage to having an outer material that bees can't get a grip on, but the manufacturers seem to have gone to tight-weave to solve this problem, and that makes it worse for the beekeeper. (Having one of those little fans on your hat helps also, but they add weight.) ----------------------------------------------------------- John F. Edwards Biological Lab. Technician "Feral Bee Tracker and AHB Identifier" - sometimes mobile sting target. Carl Hayden Bee Research Center Agricultural Research Service - USDA 2000 E. Allen Road Tucson, Arizona 85719 32.27495 N 110.9402 W http://198.22.133.109/ http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/home/edwards/edwards.html Article 25489 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.kjsl.com!newsfeed.stanford.edu!newsfeed.concentric.net!webtv.net!not-for-mail From: russ1026@webtv.net (Shari) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: 4-H ?s Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 07:50:13 -0500 (EST) Organization: WebTV Subscriber Lines: 5 Message-ID: <10341-3944DC85-22@storefull-213.iap.bryant.webtv.net> References: <25504-3942A3C7-70@storefull-214.iap.bryant.webtv.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAtAhUAxaoQT4M02jVD8rAlJTKBg+K48IgCFFODqgL/itcHUUkjXWo1emwBaYoA Content-Disposition: Inline Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25489 THANK YOU to everyone that sent answers to her last questions. Her book work is completed and she is beginning her poster when she gets back from 4-H Camp. She is having alot of fun with this project. Article 25490 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!feed1.news.rcn.net!rcn!not-for-mail From: Steve Huston Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Interpreting a sticky board test Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 14:58:31 -0400 Organization: Riverace Corporation Lines: 48 Message-ID: <39468457.C23652CA@riverace.com> References: <3937E173.BB8A739C@riverace.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: ji1+ztsotPMeXUsqdAMuKTpxSna+TMbg6swuz5tS+/yBCny0U9a3TA== X-Complaints-To: abuse@rcn.com NNTP-Posting-Date: 13 Jun 2000 18:58:48 GMT X-Accept-Language: en X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (WinNT; U) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25490 An update... Steve Huston wrote: > > Hi, > > I did a 48-hour test with Phero-Tech sticky board varroa trap in one of > my hives (2 deeps, relatively full of bees). I counted about 130 mites. > > I did the same test in March and counted 3, so did not put in Apistan. > > This is in Massachusetts, US. > > Questions: > > 1. Am I in real trouble here? I got one email reply which indicated that 130 is not necessarily trouble. Upon inspecting that hive this past weekend, though, I broke open a bunch of bridge comb with drone cells, and found a few mites in each of over half the cells. The bees weren't filling the super they had on (other hives are) and they had gotten very "jumpy" - I could work bare-handed and not get stung, but it took very little provocation to get them bouncing off my veil and hat. So I took off the super and put in Apistan. Now (5 days later) there are bunches of varroa on the bottom board. > 2. I have 3 other hives in this yard (one is a recent split and has > Apistan in it) - are they likely to be in trouble too? I ordered more > sticky boards to test with, but they're not here yet. The other two hives tested 10 and 13 mites - another indication that the first hive was not handling the mite issue too well, and another factor in deciding to treat the first hive. I didn't want them spreading over to the others. > 3. Has anyone tried formic acid gel - what results did you have? I heard nothing back on this... so I went with Apistan (plus, I had some ;-) but would like to hear anyone's experience with formic acid gel. -Steve -- Steve Huston Riverace Corporation Email: shuston@riverace.com http://www.riverace.com ACE Kits, Support, Consulting (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185 Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html Article 25491 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed1.earthlink.net!newsmaster1.prod.itd.earthlink.net!newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "doona" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <39460058.41601568@news1.radix.net> Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Lines: 34 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: <7Dv15.2292$xX4.41620@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net> Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:06:43 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 63.36.30.240 X-Complaints-To: abuse@earthlink.net X-Trace: newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net 960923203 63.36.30.240 (Tue, 13 Jun 2000 12:06:43 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 12:06:43 PDT Organization: EarthLink Inc. -- http://www.EarthLink.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25491 OK! I'm a beekeeper! only having 4 hives and only getting my first bees in March, I check my hives with just a smoker. But they are little hives being new and all, and there is a honey flow on and I wait until the sun is high in the sky, and I love my bees. I have tried out my new bee suit when the bees wanted to reach out and touch me a little to much. I think Beekeepers keep bees using what ever helps them get the job done. Donna Just learning. wrote in message news:39460058.41601568@news1.radix.net... > On 13 Jun 2000 03:36:35 GMT, bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) wrote: > > >Hi, > > I've been watch Colony Div. and Requeening bee program and have notice all > > the fellow were only dress short sleves shirt, short pant, no gloves and carry > >a smoker, How in the world they do this with out getting stung? The tape > >showing those people lift the rack and kill the old Queen and replace new Queen > >with out gloves on. Rackon they spray them self with Bee Go? or Skip bath? Here > >in Va. I did have to use Suit because they will nail you real good. Can someone > >point out what is their Secret? Thanks. > > Tim > > They are beekeepers! > > Greg the beekeep > Article 25492 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-feed.fnsi.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!newscon01.news.prodigy.com!news-k12.news.prodigy.com!prodigy.com!not-for-mail From: "RLNC" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Quick Question Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 23:40:49 -0600 Organization: Prodigy http://www.prodigy.com Lines: 10 Message-ID: <8i1tbc$434c$1@newssvr05-en0.news.prodigy.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: idfab105-06.splitrock.net X-Trace: newssvr05-en0.news.prodigy.com 960788655 4050606 209.253.89.157 (12 Jun 2000 05:44:15 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@prodigy.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 12 Jun 2000 05:44:15 GMT X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Priority: 3 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25492 Forgive the intrusion into your group. Hoping you can settle a bet. (I couldn't find an answer readily online just by performing general searches.) I was talking to my kids about the importance of bees to agriculture and I bet them that it was probably possible for a farmer/grower to purchase bees for the purpose of pollination for his/her crops--rather than just relying on nature to provide them. They say no way. Who is correct? Thanks. Send reply to RLNC@prodigy.net Article 25493 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.xtra.co.nz!not-for-mail From: "Neville Brook" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8i1tbc$434c$1@newssvr05-en0.news.prodigy.com> Subject: Re: Quick Question Lines: 20 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Organization: Paradise Net Ltd. Customer Message-ID: <960788901.398650@shelley.paradise.net.nz> Cache-Post-Path: shelley.paradise.net.nz!unknown@203-79-75-245.ipn4.paradise.net.nz X-Cache: nntpcache 2.4.0b2 (see http://www.nntpcache.org/) Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:48:31 +1200 NNTP-Posting-Host: 203.96.152.26 X-Complaints-To: newsadmin@xtra.co.nz X-Trace: news.xtra.co.nz 960788918 203.96.152.26 (Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:48:38 NZST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:48:38 NZST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25493 You are! RLNC wrote in message news:8i1tbc$434c$1@newssvr05-en0.news.prodigy.com... > > Forgive the intrusion into your group. Hoping you can settle a bet. (I > couldn't find an answer readily online just by performing general searches.) > I was talking to my kids about the importance of bees to agriculture and I > bet them that it was probably possible for a farmer/grower to purchase bees > for the purpose of pollination for his/her crops--rather than just relying > on nature to provide them. They say no way. Who is correct? Thanks. Send > reply to RLNC@prodigy.net > > > Article 25494 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newshub.northeast.verio.net!verio!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!attbtf!att542!att541!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: How long before new queen does her thing Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 02:32:54 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 14 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust70.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8i26km$3r6$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <4mS$zMAhZrO5Ew59@kilty.demon.co.uk> <6q08kskndvaantgoa93edk2lfg6sql2hfl@4ax.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust70.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25494 > Just a side question if I may. Is this because there is brood to > raise? If there is no queen then the bees stop bringing in pollen? > >If pollen is coming in there is a queen. This is not a totally reliable indicator, and IMO will not give an early warning of queenlessness. Queenless bees will bring in pollen, however their need for pollen declines as the brood all becomes capped and the bees age. allen Article 25495 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!europa.netcrusader.net!152.163.239.131!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: honeysticks? Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 12 Jun 2000 10:48:07 GMT References: <0321cf72.234ede4f@usw-ex0104-028.remarq.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000612064807.07310.00002900@ng-cc1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25495 Betterbee has honeysticks also (Upstate NY) Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 25496 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Jun 2000 21:21:46 GMT References: <8i6531$17e$1@campus3.mtu.edu> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613172146.03648.00002798@ng-ba1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25496 >There is an >: advantage to having an outer material that bees can't get a grip on, The one I use is light and thin like a paper and is kind of silk like. I bough it from Auto Paint Supply which is real cheap. It come in white with band on sleves and legs. They use for paint shop. Some have hood, I cut my hood in half to make sure the veil cover it real good behind my neck. Tim Article 25498 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!europa.netcrusader.net!152.163.239.129!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Lines: 12 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Jun 2000 21:32:01 GMT References: <7Dv15.2292$xX4.41620@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613173201.03648.00002802@ng-ba1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25498 >I think Beekeepers keep bees using what ever helps them get the job done. >Donna > This is true, That is the reason I came in to check out the Webs site and trying to learn more from other experiment of whom who have been with bees all their lives. I just don't what to learn the hard way or waste my times. I am new here ( right now have two hive) and want to learn the Best and The Right Ways. So, You're saying middle of day is best to check on the hives? Tim Article 25499 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!209.133.60.2.MISMATCH!localhost!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!newsfeed1.dti.ad.jp!giga-nspixp2!wnoc-kyo-news!kyushu-id.ac.jp!hakata!133.49.4.14.MISMATCH!news.cc.saga-u.ac.jp!not-for-mail From: 00t599 <00t599@ews030.edu.cc.saga-u.ac.jp> Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: $BLn5e(B Date: 12 Jun 2000 13:15:42 +0900 Organization: Information Center, Saga University, Saga, JAPAN Lines: 9 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: ews030.edu.cc.saga-u.ac.jp X-Trace: news.cc.saga-u.ac.jp 960783378 7651 133.49.17.30 (12 Jun 2000 04:16:18 GMT) X-Complaints-To: news@news.cc.saga-u.ac.jp NNTP-Posting-Date: 12 Jun 2000 04:16:18 GMT X-Newsreader: Gnus v5.3/Emacs 19.34 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25499 $B$3$s$K$A$O!*(B $B:G6aK;$7$/$F%W%mLn5e$,8+$l$J$$$N$G!"(B $B5p?M%U%!%s$N?M!":#$N5p?M$N=g0L$r65$($F$/$l!*(B -- $B5HED8w!w:42lBg3XM}9)3XItEE5$EE;R9)3X2J(B($B%/%i%9(BA) 00t599@edu.cc.saga-u.ac.jp Article 25500 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!nf1.mgmt.sympatico.ca!news1.bellglobal.com!news20.bellglobal.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <3946AAF9.FDBD42A3@honeyroad.com> From: workerbee@honeyroad.com Organization: My Beekeeping Homepage: http://www.honeyroad.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en,fr MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honey References: <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 16 Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 21:41:56 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.172.183.233 X-Trace: news20.bellglobal.com 960932516 206.172.183.233 (Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:41:56 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:41:56 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25500 Sell it, there are many ways of selling honey and getting others to do it for you. Dont let the bees be a financial burden, let the bees pay for themselves. Everyone (mostly) loves honey. If you need some ideas, feel free to email me. Allen Banks Honey Road Apiairies http://www.honeyroad.com Larry W wrote: > Since many of us in this NG could be classified as hobbyist 1 - 6 hives, Im > wondering what you do with your honey? I got about 6 gals off one hive and > am fixing to get about 10 more gallons off my other 3. > > Larry Article 25501 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!news.mtu.edu!not-for-mail From: Timothy C. Eisele Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: 13 Jun 2000 20:20:49 GMT Organization: Michigan Technological University Lines: 27 Message-ID: <8i6531$17e$1@campus3.mtu.edu> References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <20000613082848.07053.00003638@ng-cc1.aol.com> <394684B1.7A9464A9@tucson.ars.ag.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: hornet.my.mtu.edu X-Trace: campus3.mtu.edu 960927649 1262 141.219.67.30 (13 Jun 2000 20:20:49 GMT) X-Complaints-To: news@mtu.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 13 Jun 2000 20:20:49 GMT X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX IT-DCS binary version 970321; sun4u SunOS 5.7] Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25501 John Edwards wrote: : Dave, you might look into the yellowish "Michelin-Man" suit that someone in the : southern U.S. has marketed and shown at bee meetings over the years - we had one - : it looks puffy, but allows air to pass through quite well in Tucson. The only : drawback was that it tended to snag on branches. Sorry I don't know the brand name. : This is an area (beesuits) that could really use some redesign work. All you need : is something holey that will hold the outer layer a safe distance away from your : skin and have holes small enough to keep bees out of your britches. There is an : advantage to having an outer material that bees can't get a grip on, but the : manufacturers seem to have gone to tight-weave to solve this problem, and that : makes it worse for the beekeeper. : (Having one of those little fans on your hat helps also, but they add weight.) : ----------------------------------------------------------- For that matter, I have one of those "bug baffler" shirts (a puffy, mesh shirt with holes big enough to keep out mosquitos), that seems to work OK. It is cool, light, works *very* well at keeping out the mosquitos and black flies (which were what I really got it for in the first place, I've got a *really bad* black fly problem around my house in the spring), and the couple of times I wore it around the bees, it seemed to work just fine keeping them away, too. -- Tim Eisele tceisele@mtu.edu Article 25502 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newspush.london1.eu.level3.net!level3eu!skynet.be!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!not-for-mail From: "Pamela Buckle" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Allergies Associated With Beekeeping Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 22:34:24 +0100 Organization: UUNET WorldCom server (post doesn't reflect views of UUNET WorldCom Lines: 71 Message-ID: <8i6e1l$hpa$1@lure.pipex.net> References: <8hef1a$6jd$2@lure.pipex.net><8hgcnv$1ut$1@news.smartworld.net> <8ho2ar$rcg$1@mohawk.hwcn.org> <13025400.888b270a@usw-ex0104-033.remarq.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: userdm75.uk.uudial.com X-Trace: lure.pipex.net 960936821 18218 62.188.4.95 (13 Jun 2000 22:53:41 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uk.uu.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 13 Jun 2000 22:53:41 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25502 Nothing false about the bleeding cracks all over the palms of my hands when I get propolis on them. Sounds as if you might just have a slight financial interest in selling royal jelly, Ron. Methinks the merchant doth protest too much! Martin. Ron Law wrote in message news:13025400.888b270a@usw-ex0104-033.remarq.com... > A great deal has been said about allergies to bee products. Much > of it has been driven by medical practitioners/scientists trying > to establish a research profile, or to discredit complementary > healthcare products in general. > > We have been able to prove that much of what has been written > about royal jelly, for example, including in peer reviewed > medical literature, is false, falsified and even fabricated with > false conclusions being drawn. Two well publicised deaths in > Australia have never been established as being caused by royal > jelly scientifically. Two coroners were fed false, and > retrospectively interpreted data. In a third case, medical > records prove that the surfie did not die from an adverse > reaction to royal jelly and official records show that officials > knew that. These official records were withheld from > circulation, and two official inquiries. > > > There is a myth that people are allergic to bees. Again, this is > simply that, a myth. If you are allergic to bee stings, for > example, you will not be automatically allergic to royal jelly, > bee pollen, propolis or even the bee itself. Its a bit like, > people allergic to milk are not allergic to beef. There is no > relationship in science between allergies to different bee > products. There is no scientific evidence that asthmatics are > more allergic to any bee product and they are not more prone to > allergies from bee stings. It is simply a myth. > > For a scientific report commissioned by the New Zealand > Government, go to Nick Wallingford's marvellous beekeeping site > at http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/scirev.htm and read two reports -- > one by a NZ Parliamentary Select Committee and the other by a > 5-person scientific review panel. > > You'll be able to read risk analyses undertaken for bee pollen, > propolis and royal jelly. They conclude that there was no > scientific evidence of significant allergies to ingestion of bee > pollen and propolis, that cautions statements relating to > asthmatics only should be on royal jelly products, and that > there is no evidence that any of the three deaths, alledged to > have been caused by royal jelly, were, although there was an > association with use in one. > > Given the billions (literally) of doses of all three products > used around the world every year there is a remarkable absence > of adverse reaction reports; the scientific review panel > concluded that propolis and bee pollen were extremely safe and > that the risk of adverse reactions to royal jelly was confined > to asthmatics and that even then the risk was very low. > > As for the false, falsified and fabricated data, that's another > story that is likely to result in scientific misconduct > proceedings. > > RL > > > * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet's Discussion Network * > The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free! > Article 25503 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.netcom.net.uk!netcom.net.uk!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!not-for-mail From: "Pamela Buckle" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What a disaster! (long) Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 23:46:38 +0100 Organization: UUNET WorldCom server (post doesn't reflect views of UUNET WorldCom Lines: 28 Message-ID: <8i6e1n$hpa$2@lure.pipex.net> References: <393E9274.446C0BE2@formida.com> <393EC2FF.4498EC1@midwest.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: userdm75.uk.uudial.com X-Trace: lure.pipex.net 960936823 18218 62.188.4.95 (13 Jun 2000 22:53:43 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uk.uu.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 13 Jun 2000 22:53:43 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25503 Dusty, you had a lifetime's beekeeping disaster in one experience - What stamina! What powerful descriptive writing! I almost felt the pain and the slippery honey covered scene. One of the few postings I have felt compelled to print out and save to show to other beekeepers! Rather you than me. My own worst experience was pushing a wheelbarrow across a field at midnight when the wheel went down a hole and the hive I was moving rolled upside down with all the boxes twisted to allow triangular holes at the corners. Do you know that little 'Zip, zip' noise that bees make as they crawl all over you in the dark looking for holes in your clothing? Martin. Dusty Bleher wrote in message news:skaj0gfvh5159@news.supernews.com... > Thanks again to all of you for your valuable tips> ......... (lots clipped out) > So, what fun and exciting things did you do this weekend? > > Later all, > Dusty Bleher > San Jose, Ca. > > Article 25504 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Comb Sections Lines: 2 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Jun 2000 21:48:35 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613174835.03648.00002805@ng-ba1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25504 Has anyone has experience with new round comb sections? Is it true they saying it was easy and simple job to collect the honey? Thanks. Article 25505 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honey Lines: 14 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Jun 2000 22:01:17 GMT References: <3945bf8a_2@news.vic.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613180117.03648.00002808@ng-ba1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25505 > >I have been giving some away but buying the jars and giving it ALL away also >just don't seem right somehow. > >Larry > Hi Larry, Just a though, If your friend having brush haul tractor or anything u need, Would it be cheaper give your friend a honey than rent one? I have my Realtor sold my house for 7 quart of honey. He said he don't like store honey because it a sugar feed. He can taste the different. Think of this, 7 Quart of honey is like 7 Thousand of dollar Realtor comm. fee. Tim Article 25506 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!spamz.news.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Bugs Zapper for Moth Lines: 10 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 14 Jun 2000 00:15:36 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613201536.21948.00000568@ng-bd1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25506 Hey Guys, Let trade some of experience about working with Bees and Saving time and money. My Father have 16 hive, four of them have Wax moth ( worm ) inside which have done alot of damage last year. This Year, We install Bugs Zapper near the hive to kill all the moth. So far, only one have wax moth. It seem to us that Bugs Zapper were doing pretty good job. One Bugs Zapper is cheaper than one truck load of moth balls. LOL. Tim Article 25507 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Dumb mistake, need help Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:15:32 -0500 Lines: 22 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.53 Message-ID: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 13 Jun 2000 20:08:49 -0400, 208.24.176.53 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.53 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25507 Today I started extracting my newest hives, I pulled 13 super frames. I put them 2 at a time in the extractor and started to spin it, no matter how slow I spun it I blew out the frames. I went through about 6 of them before I realized what the problem was. 2 months ago I bought 30 super frames and wax. from a place in NC I wont mention the name but the initials are BM. I originally ordered duraguilt but after consulting the NG I decided to change it to standard was, so I reordered the proper frames but they sent me split bottom bars. Not wanting to return them and reorder I built all my super frames with split bottom bars. So when I spun the frames the wires lifted up out of the bottom bars and broke the wax. I couldn't even get al the honey out. The question is what do I do to repair the damage? Can I somehow just replace the bottom bars? Should I order some new bottom bars. Does anybody know an easier fix? Do I have to replace the wax that's broken? Any Ideas would be appreciated. I just put the frames back on the hive to get them cleaned up. Thanks Larry Article 25508 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.cwix.com!atlas.lcc.net!usenet From: "nomad" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:35:22 -0500 Organization: LCC Internet Lines: 47 Message-ID: <8i6d25$hd6@atlas.lcc.net> References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <39460058.41601568@news1.radix.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: ncgd-pri5-a74.txucom.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25508 wrote in message news:39460058.41601568@news1.radix.net... > On 13 Jun 2000 03:36:35 GMT, bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) wrote: > > >Hi, > > I've been watch Colony Div. and Requeening bee program and have notice all > > the fellow were only dress short sleves shirt, short pant, no gloves and carry > >a smoker, How in the world they do this with out getting stung? The tape > >showing those people lift the rack and kill the old Queen and replace new Queen > >with out gloves on. Rackon they spray them self with Bee Go? or Skip bath? Here > >in Va. I did have to use Suit because they will nail you real good. Can someone > >point out what is their Secret? Thanks. > > Tim > > They are beekeepers! > > Greg the beekeep > That and Bees won't sting for scale and their union forbids them to do their own stunts. :) Thats the only way I can Explain it. I'm a newbie here with 6 hives. I found out (hard way) that the Dadant XXL Long suit was a tad to small for me. Everywhere the suit cloth grew tight the bees could sting thru with easy. So I when back and bought a 4xl Mountain bee suit (twice the cost). Expensive, but I hope it pays off in fewer stings and longer wear. I heard Dadant was planning to quit carrying them. Too bad they were the one suit that came in my size. You always need a veil to protect your face. But I find that a suit is often optional and the gloves are a bit clumsy for most work. But when the bees are tetchy and you have to work'em it's good to have a suit on hand. I've been stung 10-15 times at least (many on the same day) with no ill effects. But the other day I got one sting on my finger and my finger was swollen for three days. guess the easy part is over :(. Pass the Benedryl. Article 25509 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!peerfeed.news.psi.net!jump.innerx.net!basement Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping From: Why@me.com (SomeOne) Subject: Re: Comb Sections References: <20000613174835.03648.00002805@ng-ba1.aol.com> X-Newsreader: News Xpress 2.01 Lines: 13 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 00:26:22 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 38.38.18.133 X-Trace: jump.innerx.net 960942685 38.38.18.133 (Tue, 13 Jun 2000 20:31:25 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 20:31:25 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25509 In article <20000613174835.03648.00002805@ng-ba1.aol.com>, bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) wrote: >Has anyone has experience with new round comb sections? Is it true they saying >it was easy and simple job to collect the honey? Thanks. I use them. They are a lot cleaner to package and present. No draining is involved. The bees do fill them out quite well BUT, ( you saw this coming didn't you? ) you still need to make sure there is a flow going on and if they don't fill the properly they are hard to salvage ( the honey that is ) you can easily clean the rings and reuse them. Over all, they are a blessing in my operation. :) Article 25510 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8i6531$17e$1@campus3.mtu.edu> <20000613172146.03648.00002798@ng-ba1.aol.com> Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:50:05 -0500 Lines: 23 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.53 Message-ID: <3946c7a5_2@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 13 Jun 2000 19:45:41 -0400, 208.24.176.53 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.53 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25510 That one is probley Tyvek. Its almost impossible to tear right? Very slick? They make disposable suits out of it but it doesn't breath at all. I use a large twill cotton baggy shirt with a waist band and wrist bands and a large pair of twill pants that drag the ground NO bands on the ankles. However its still HOT. Where can I get one of those fan hats? Larry "Blue Taz37" wrote in message news:20000613172146.03648.00002798@ng-ba1.aol.com... > >There is an > >: advantage to having an outer material that bees can't get a grip on, > > The one I use is light and thin like a paper and is kind of silk like. I bough > it from Auto Paint Supply which is real cheap. It come in white with band on > sleves and legs. They use for paint shop. Some have hood, I cut my hood in > half to make sure the veil cover it real good behind my neck. > Tim Article 25511 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com> <20000613084802.07053.00003643@ng-cc1.aol.com> Subject: Re: Honey Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:52:25 -0500 Lines: 47 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.53 Message-ID: <3946c7a6$1_2@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 13 Jun 2000 19:45:42 -0400, 208.24.176.53 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.53 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25511 Hey if I valued my time and equipment by now it would be about $100 per quart. Larry "Dave Green" wrote in message news:20000613084802.07053.00003643@ng-cc1.aol.com... > From: "Larry W" larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net > > >Since many of us in this NG could be classified as hobbyist 1 - 6 hives, Im > >wondering what you do with your honey? I got about 6 gals off one hive and > >am fixing to get about 10 more gallons off my other 3. > > When you reach the point where you can't use it all, and you can't give it > all away, you come to the point of selling it. > > Bee aware that this is a quantum leap. Once you sell you product, it is > subject to many laws. Health inspectors in most US states will not allow you to > sell honey that is packaged on your kitchen counter. > > So get information on label laws, acceptable packing procedures and > equipment, etc. Much of this is online now. > > Years ago, when I put honey into our local produce stand the first time; the > inspector was at my door within about two weeks. He's been a frequent visitor > ever since. > > One more thing. Hobbyists sometimes make it tough for those of us who make > a living from honey sales, because you don't value your time. Keep your prices > in line with the market, and we'll all make a fair return. > > > Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA > The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com > > Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) > http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25512 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Agressive?? Lines: 5 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Jun 2000 09:26:24 GMT References: <394552D8.7EDC1028@uidaho.edu> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613052624.12699.00000086@ng-fe1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25512 I had that problem earlier this year and other beekeepers suggested (a) re-queening, and (b) splitting the hive up--moving some of the frames and brood, and (c) moving much of the hive, after killing the queen to another nearby hive and letting the works fly back to an empty (or non-existent) hive at the old location. I did this and it solved the problem. avxtent0- Article 25513 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com> <3946AAF9.FDBD42A3@honeyroad.com> Subject: Re: Honey Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:55:49 -0500 Lines: 36 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.53 Message-ID: <3946c871_1@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 13 Jun 2000 19:49:05 -0400, 208.24.176.53 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.53 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25513 Thanks all a lot of good advice. I live in the boonies and suppose I could sell it at a roadside stand nearest one is about 20 miles from here. I thought about putting a sign on a neighbors yard, I live off the main road. I have already given away all of my first extraction, about 2 gals. I don't know that many people around here. If I try to sell it Ill try to keep the price just a little below the store price. It sure would be nice to recover some of the cost and maybe make enough to buy a better extractor. Larry wrote in message news:3946AAF9.FDBD42A3@honeyroad.com... > Sell it, there are many ways of selling honey and getting others to do it for > you. Dont let the bees be a financial burden, let the bees pay for themselves. > Everyone (mostly) loves honey. If you need some ideas, feel free to email me. > > Allen Banks > Honey Road Apiairies > http://www.honeyroad.com > > Larry W wrote: > > > Since many of us in this NG could be classified as hobbyist 1 - 6 hives, Im > > wondering what you do with your honey? I got about 6 gals off one hive and > > am fixing to get about 10 more gallons off my other 3. > > > > Larry > Article 25514 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!attmtf!att541!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 16:24:21 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 53 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust202.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8i6bpl$iu0$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <20000613082848.07053.00003638@ng-cc1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust202.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25514 > I rarely wear more than a t-shirt and veil when working bees. Suit yourself, Dave, but I like to wear pants too:) > I could not wear a bee suit; I have enough problems with heat exhaustion as > it is. Actually, as I get older, I do wear a bee suit a lot of the time, and I wear it to stay cool as much as anything. It is also a fast way to dress in the morning. But I don't just wear any bee suit. I wear a XXXL made of very light material, and I wear only undershorts underneath on warm days. Boxers or briefs? That would be telling, wouldn't it? The baggy suit is very comfortable -- and cool. I wear it for the sun more than for the bees, and since I change it often, it is nice and clean. I sometimes carry a spare. The white reflects the sun and is cool compared to bare skin, which is what was mostly exposed when I was younger. I used to pull honey in only cut-offs and sandals, often with no veil, but those days are gone. I know too many people with skin cancer spots. IMO, those Sheriff style veils we wear are going to kill a lot of beekeepers with their open tops. If they don't kill us, they can at least take the blame for those ugly age spots on the temples. I wish they would put some fabric on the top portion instead of screen. Nobody has eyes up there. There is something to say in favour of the traditional helmet. When I drive up in my white suit, everyone knows I'm "that beekeeper" and don't have to spend time deciding who I am. All my guys wear clean bee suits for reasons of public relations and pride. We use a linen service, in fact. It is worth it. Our guys in white are a familiar sight in the fields too and we aren't confused with less desirable people who might be seen on the farmers place at all hours of day and night. Our guys tend to like thicker tighter suits than I do, and I don't know how they can stand it. One thing worth mentioning: we carry a bucket of clean water and pour it over our heads every so often if it is really warm. Some beekeepers have a water pressure tank under the deck and can spray each other down if things get too bad. Maybe I'll build one of those and we can have some good water fights. allen -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Article 25515 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honey Lines: 5 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Jun 2000 09:29:16 GMT References: <3945bf8a_2@news.vic.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613052916.12699.00000087@ng-fe1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25515 I give some away at the local community center which has a lot of poor people coming in and out for food, meals, clothing. The rest I give away elsewhere, tho in talking to several "farmer's markets", they all would like more attractively packaged honey... Article 25516 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Lines: 6 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 14 Jun 2000 00:04:55 GMT References: <8i6d25$hd6@atlas.lcc.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613200455.21948.00000564@ng-bd1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25516 >But the other day I got one sting on my finger and my finger was >swollen for three days. guess the easy part is over :(. Pass the Benedryl. Sorry to hear that Norman, I was told the stuff called Sting Aid which is a good stuff but,The sad part is the manufactory is no longer in bussiness. Tim Article 25517 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!peerfeed.news.psi.net!jump.innerx.net!basement Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping From: Why@me.com (SomeOne) Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <20000613082848.07053.00003638@ng-cc1.aol.com> <394684B1.7A9464A9@tucson.ars.ag.gov> X-Newsreader: News Xpress 2.01 Lines: 29 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 00:29:54 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 38.38.18.133 X-Trace: jump.innerx.net 960942897 38.38.18.133 (Tue, 13 Jun 2000 20:34:57 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 20:34:57 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25517 In article <394684B1.7A9464A9@tucson.ars.ag.gov>, John Edwards wrote: > >Dave Green wrote: > >> I am concerned about the arrival of the africanized bees. What to do > then? >> Maybe I'll don the bee suit and put ice in the pockets? > >Dave, you might look into the yellowish "Michelin-Man" suit that someone in the >southern U.S. has marketed and shown at bee meetings over the years - we had > one - >it looks puffy, but allows air to pass through quite well in Tucson. The only >drawback was that it tended to snag on branches. Sorry I don't know the brand > name. >This is an area (beesuits) that could really use some redesign work. All you > need >is something holey that will hold the outer layer a safe distance away from > your >skin and have holes small enough to keep bees out of your britches. There is an >advantage to having an outer material that bees can't get a grip on, but the >manufacturers seem to have gone to tight-weave to solve this problem, and that >makes it worse for the beekeeper. >(Having one of those little fans on your hat helps also, but they add weight.) >----------------------------------------------------------- I use one of those suits..I always felt like a big brillo pad but it is nice to have a cool breeze flowing through. I have never been stung through the suit....my socks are a different story.:) Article 25518 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!news.gradwell.net!diablo.theplanet.net!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!128.230.129.106!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: kamtout@together.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: swarming Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 01:10:24 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 14 Message-ID: <8i6m1l$s5u$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <8i43v9$fc8@atlas.lcc.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.13.202.54 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 14 01:10:24 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.5 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x73.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 208.13.202.54 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDkamtout Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25518 I'm not the expert here but when mine have swarmed there wasn't bees hanging out for days or weeks it's usually for a few hours the bzzzt of they go. I have had hives with hanging beards before even through the night. It was due to high temperature and humidity. They were simply venting and cooling the place off. So what's your weather like? You could also check for queen cells. usually swarm cells are on or very near the bottom of a frame. Mike Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25519 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: my "split' split Lines: 11 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 14 Jun 2000 00:33:04 GMT References: <3940055E.E2162692@soils.umn.edu> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613203304.21948.00000569@ng-bd1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25519 >Put in 3 frames >full of brood, the rest of the frames drawn comb, I put 3 frames with brood and full of bees in my other new nuc with out Queen. A week later, I check the frames aging and have found New Queen Cell which I knew she on the way. The bees seem very strong and happy. Fact, I block their door about 90% because there were only few guard there to protect hive. I will remove the block about month later until the hive is near full with plenty of new guard. Your sound like its been rob. That my guess. Tim Article 25520 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Honey Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:54:14 -0500 Lines: 8 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.71 Message-ID: <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 12 Jun 2000 14:47:18 -0400, 208.24.176.71 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.71 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25520 Since many of us in this NG could be classified as hobbyist 1 - 6 hives, Im wondering what you do with your honey? I got about 6 gals off one hive and am fixing to get about 10 more gallons off my other 3. Larry Article 25521 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: kamtout@together.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Interpreting a sticky board test Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 01:01:21 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 9 Message-ID: <8i6lgp$ro3$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <3937E173.BB8A739C@riverace.com> <39468457.C23652CA@riverace.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.13.202.54 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 14 01:01:21 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.5 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x73.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 208.13.202.54 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDkamtout Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25521 I ordered some GelPaks about 3 weeks ago and was assured they be here in time for the fall treatment..... Demand must be pretty high. I would also like to hear someone else's experience with the things. Mike Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25522 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!saltmine.radix.net!not-for-mail From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Dronelaying workers? Date: 13 Jun 2000 22:18:42 -0400 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 14 Message-ID: <8i6q22$7qm$1@saltmine.radix.net> References: <8i3lg4$o8b$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Reply-To: adamf@radix.net NNTP-Posting-Host: saltmine.radix.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25522 In article <8i3lg4$o8b$1@nnrp1.deja.com>, Pete wrote: > For either drone laying queen (which you may have) or laying workers >the rule of thumb is to take the hive 20-30 yards away and shake all >bees off into tall grass so that the drone laying queen or laying >workers will not make it back to home base. If it's a small colony or a nuc that's queen didn't make it, we freeze the drone frames for a day, and then use them to test for hygenic behavior. Adam -- Adam Finkelstein adamf@radix.net http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 25523 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 09:35:59 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 16 Message-ID: <39460058.41601568@news1.radix.net> References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p11.a1.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25523 On 13 Jun 2000 03:36:35 GMT, bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) wrote: >Hi, > I've been watch Colony Div. and Requeening bee program and have notice all > the fellow were only dress short sleves shirt, short pant, no gloves and carry >a smoker, How in the world they do this with out getting stung? The tape >showing those people lift the rack and kill the old Queen and replace new Queen >with out gloves on. Rackon they spray them self with Bee Go? or Skip bath? Here >in Va. I did have to use Suit because they will nail you real good. Can someone >point out what is their Secret? Thanks. > Tim They are beekeepers! Greg the beekeep Article 25524 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Lines: 14 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Jun 2000 10:41:36 GMT References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613064136.26057.00003705@ng-cu1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25524 The secret to not getting stung on video is editing. But if you choose a good sunny day during a flow a puff of smoke is about all you need to handle bees. I still say protect your eyes. And a bee sting inside your nose really makes your eyes water and makes it hard to climb down the tree with a swarm. Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 25525 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: swarming Message-ID: References: <8i43v9$fc8@atlas.lcc.net> <8i6m1l$s5u$1@nnrp1.deja.com> X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.30.1784 Lines: 8 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 00:37:29 EDT Organization: WebUseNet Corp http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 21:33:44 -0700 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25525 In article <8i6m1l$s5u$1@nnrp1.deja.com>, kamtout@together.net says... > I have had hives with hanging beards before even through the night. It > was due to high temperature and humidity. They were simply venting and > cooling the place off. > Yeah, I think they like to do that. It would be like sitting out on the front porch in the Carolinas with hk1beeman. I like your reference to "hanging beards" of bees. Article 25526 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honey Lines: 13 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 14 Jun 2000 04:32:05 GMT References: <3946c871_1@news.vic.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000614003205.15441.00000819@ng-fy1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25526 From: "Larry W" larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net >If I try to sell it Ill try to keep the >price just a little below the store price. Isn't yours better than the store's? Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25527 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: Pete Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 04:52:36 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 30 Message-ID: <8i732h$58n$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.152.6.71 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 14 04:52:36 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.7 [en]C-CCK-MCD snapN45b1 (Win95; U) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x54.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 216.152.6.71 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDhrogers000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25527 "Larry W" wrote: >The question is what do I do to repair the damage? Can I somehow >just replace the bottom bars? Should I order some new bottom bars. > Larry ******************************************************* Howdy Larry -- Split bottom bars with wired wax foundation should not cause this problem. If the frames of honey are warm (90 degrees or so) and extracting is started SLOW, this should not happen. Extract only a small amount of honey from the first side and reverse it. Do not try to get all the honey out of the first side, or the weight of the honey on the second (inside) side will break out the comb. Repeat reversing sides several times if necessary. After the bees clean up the comb, you can evaluate whether is melt-up time or if they can be straightened up enough to use again. Pete So much to learn - So little time ! ************************************************** Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25528 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What a disaster! (long) Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 22:52:16 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 69 Message-ID: <394567db.2565272@news1.radix.net> References: <393E9274.446C0BE2@formida.com> <393EC2FF.4498EC1@midwest.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: p10.a1.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25528 On Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:46:26 -0700, "Dusty Bleher" wrote: >What I learned: >1) Exactly 60 seconds after we opened the eave, we were beaten. We and our >tools were covered with honey, and it was impossible to work with a purpose. >The tools kept slipping out of our hands, and everything we touched turned to >slime. I lost track of the number of times I had to climb down off of the >scaffold to recover hive tool, hammer, and pry-bars... >2) The bees knew the layout far better then we. They scurried off to places >between the wood that we could never follow. We vacuumed them up as best we >could. But we were little better than the boy whose finger is in the dike... >3) If I ever have to do this again, I'm going to kill them first, and then >open up from the inside, working from the bottom up to keep from having the >stuff drip down and collectively add to the mess below. >4) That it's possible to have a hive that yields more than 145 pounds of >honey and wax in the eves and wall of your house. We separated our booty into >nice clean comb honey (#1), from mixed comb (brood and honey, #2), and comb >that was woven into (and contaminated by) tar paper, insulation, plaster, >stucco, and other materials found in the walls (#3). The first group we >greedily ate and enjoyed. The second was going to be melted down and filtered >to recover the honey, and wax. The third was going to be melted down only for >the wax. >5) Never leave your comb smelter unattended. The mixed comb and honey (the >second group) was in a large two handled porcelain over metal pan. I put in >an outdoor barbeque oven. Turned it on warm (around 150-70F) constantly >checking the temperature. Things were going well. A light chilly breeze was >blowing, and the temp was holding steady. Evening fell, the cold southerly >breeze swung around to the north and warmed up. Now the house was blocking >it. That meant that the cooling breeze had stopped. THE NEXT MORNING I >remembered the oven. Ran outside, and found temp around 325F, boiled over >honey, wax, and bees and bee parts all through the barbeque, and a honey, wax, >grease, and soot flavored puddle slowly spreading across my patio from the >grease trap overflow... After turning off the BBQ, the stuff collapsed into a >charred caramelized mass of material resembling tar in both color and texture. >6) New hive tools are surprisingly sharp. I have the decorations and >bandages to prove it. >7) A honey soaked bee brush does not move bees well. >8) For the $600 or so, so far, I could have bought a lot of honey... That's >exclusive of: paint, sprayer, texture applicator, carpet shampooing, eave >siding, and three more days of putting on layers of sheetrock mud between >sandings. >9) Three day old bee suits continue to look good even after 4 full fledged >wash cycles. >10) Being a grandfather beekeeper is a lot harder then I remember it being at >14... > >So, what fun and exciting things did you do this weekend? > >Later all, >Dusty Bleher >San Jose, Ca. > > What you should have learned: $300.00 to have them removed was a real bargin! Since your neighbor wanted them removed he should have been approched to pay the bill. I am in a similar situation. I have bees on a vegitable farm and a homeowner can see 8 of the hives. She called the state inspector and demanded that they be moved. My reply to the inspector and I quote "Tell the bitch to go f@#k herself, farmers have a right to make a living. If she wants them moved out of her sight have her send me certified funds for $500.00 as a nusence fee." I haven't heard anything more for the past month. beekeep Article 25529 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Message-ID: <394594B1.118DB49@borg.com> Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 21:56:01 -0400 From: Howard Cohen X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Two eggs in one cell Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit NNTP-Posting-Host: host-22.borgdialin.thebiz.net X-NNTP-Posting-Host: host-22.borgdialin.thebiz.net Lines: 15 Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!pullfeed!nntp2.borg.com!host-22.borgdialin.thebiz.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25529 Do any of you know why this would happen? I have never seen this before. Actually, I never looked so closely to notice it until recently. I also noticed on one cell that an egg hatched while the other will probably hatch tomorrow as they were both laid at the same time. Also on another note, I just read the message posted on 5/12 about the passing of Dr. Roger Morse. I have known Dr. Morse for 25 years plus and have sat along side of him at the New York State Fair giving him a hand in checking moisture content for the honey show. He and his wife enjoyed the fair greatly and they both loved the honey show and exhibit. He will be missed at this great event. Regards to all, Howie Cohen Utica, NY 13501 Keeping bees on and off since 1974 Article 25530 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: Pete Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honey Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 03:24:04 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 25 Message-ID: <8i49g6$5r5$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.152.6.116 X-Article-Creation-Date: Tue Jun 13 03:24:04 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.7 [en]C-CCK-MCD snapN45b1 (Win95; U) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x65.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 216.152.6.116 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDhrogers000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25530 > "Larry W" wrote: > Im wondering what you do with your honey? > Larry ********************************************************* Howdy Larry -- Just let it be known amoung your friends that you have NEW honey, or run a short ad in the paper. You can probably sell it. Otherwise give it to your friends. I asked one of my beekeeping friends what he did with all his honey from about 15-20 hives. He said he gave it all away to his friends. Said he had a lot of friends ---- and needed every one of them! Pete So much to learn - So little time ! ************************************************** Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25531 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Use unprotect bee suit Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Jun 2000 03:36:35 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25531 Hi, I've been watch Colony Div. and Requeening bee program and have notice all the fellow were only dress short sleves shirt, short pant, no gloves and carry a smoker, How in the world they do this with out getting stung? The tape showing those people lift the rack and kill the old Queen and replace new Queen with out gloves on. Rackon they spray them self with Bee Go? or Skip bath? Here in Va. I did have to use Suit because they will nail you real good. Can someone point out what is their Secret? Thanks. Tim Article 25532 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!WReNclone!WReNphoon4.POSTED!WReN!not-for-mail X-Originating-Host: 198.161.229.195 Organization: http://www.remarq.com: The World's Usenet/Discussions Start Here Subject: Re: Success with Russian Queens part 2 Lines: 12 From: Allen Dick Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Message-ID: <34902ca8.0064d0a8@usw-ex0103-018.remarq.com> References: Bytes: 469 X-Wren-Trace: ePnc9PXsq+GquOH9+bf80OLk/fnu87br+bv4/+StseCuseiupve+pay2rKWi Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 21:17:09 -0700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 10.0.2.18 X-Complaints-To: wrenabuse@remarq.com X-Trace: WReNphoon4 960869946 10.0.2.18 (Mon, 12 Jun 2000 21:19:06 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 21:19:06 PDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25532 Aaron sent me several interesting photos of a shipping box containing Russian queens and Buckfast queens for publication on the web. The attendants (of unknown heritage) seem to prefer the Buckfast. These pictures and his comments can be seen at http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Misc/Russians.htm allen * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet's Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free! Article 25533 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!208.184.7.66!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!63.211.125.72!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Two eggs in one cell Message-ID: References: <394594B1.118DB49@borg.com> X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.30.1784 Lines: 21 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 00:22:07 EDT Organization: WebUseNet Corp http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 21:18:44 -0700 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25533 I will be interested in the answer to this also, Howie, as I have had the thought that bees always develop exactly just so on precisely the same 28 days, or whatever. In article <394594B1.118DB49@borg.com>, hcohen@borg.com says... > Do any of you know why this would happen? > I have never seen this before. Actually, I never looked so closely to notice it until recently. > I also noticed on one cell that an egg hatched while the other will probably hatch tomorrow as they were both laid at the same time. > > Also on another note, I just read the message posted on 5/12 about the passing of Dr. Roger Morse. I have known Dr. Morse for 25 years plus and have sat along side of him at the New York State Fair giving him a hand in checking moisture content for the honey show. > He and his wife enjoyed the fair greatly and they both loved the honey show and exhibit. > He will be missed at this great event. > > Regards to all, > > Howie Cohen > Utica, NY 13501 > > Keeping bees on and off since 1974 > > Article 25534 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gip.net!news.gsl.net!gip.net!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: joeblow Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Two eggs in one cell Message-ID: References: <394594B1.118DB49@borg.com> Organization: joeblow X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.20 Lines: 23 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 00:47:00 EDT Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 00:51:17 -0400 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25534 In article <394594B1.118DB49@borg.com>, hcohen@borg.com says... > Do any of you know why this would happen? > I have never seen this before. Actually, I never looked so closely to notice it until recently. > I also noticed on one cell that an egg hatched while the other will probably hatch tomorrow as they were both laid at the same time. > > Also on another note, I just read the message posted on 5/12 about the passing of Dr. Roger Morse. I have known Dr. Morse for 25 years plus and have sat along side of him at the New York State Fair giving him a hand in checking moisture content for the honey show. > He and his wife enjoyed the fair greatly and they both loved the honey show and exhibit. > He will be missed at this great event. > > Regards to all, > > Howie Cohen > Utica, NY 13501 > > Keeping bees on and off since 1974 > > Sorry to hear of the passing of Roger Morse. I was just reading his book "The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Beekeeping" and I noticed that on page 320 Roger tells us that "WORKERS will lay a number of eggs in each cell and will place these all over the inside of the cell, in any position on the sides and base." I hope that this will help. Buzz Article 25535 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com> <8i49g6$5r5$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Subject: Re: Honey Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 00:05:41 -0500 Lines: 35 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.97 Message-ID: <3945bf8a_2@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 13 Jun 2000 00:58:50 -0400, 208.24.176.97 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.97 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25535 I have been giving some away but buying the jars and giving it ALL away also just don't seem right somehow. Larry "Pete" wrote in message news:8i49g6$5r5$1@nnrp1.deja.com... > > > > "Larry W" wrote: > > Im wondering what you do with your honey? > > Larry > > ********************************************************* > > Howdy Larry -- > > Just let it be known amoung your friends that you have NEW honey, or > run a short ad in the paper. You can probably sell it. Otherwise give > it to your friends. > > I asked one of my beekeeping friends what he did with all his honey > from about 15-20 hives. He said he gave it all away to his friends. > Said he had a lot of friends ---- and needed every one of them! > > Pete > So much to learn - So little time ! > ************************************************** > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Before you buy. Article 25536 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!newsfeed.concentric.net!newsfeed.ozemail.com.au!ozemail.com.au!not-for-mail From: "David Moncrieff" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com> Subject: Re: Honey Lines: 29 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: slmlb49p57.ozemail.com.au X-Trace: ozemail.com.au 960897651 210.84.141.122 (Tue, 13 Jun 2000 22:00:51 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 22:00:51 EST Organization: OzEmail Ltd, Australia Distribution: world Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 22:00:29 +1000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25536 Larry W wrote in message <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com>... >Since many of us in this NG could be classified as hobbyist 1 - 6 hives, Im >wondering what you do with your honey? I got about 6 gals off one hive and >am fixing to get about 10 more gallons off my other 3. > >Larry > > > I guess many hobby beekeepers have this problem. I had a small surplus - about 100 kg and used the following method. I bottled it and took it to my work and sold it for a fair price - a bit cheaper than the supermarket - and made it known that all money would be sent of to a charity - in this case the Salvation Army. I photocopy the checks and display them. This seems to meet a number of objectives - other beekeepers do not always like honey being given away, as it depressed the price for everyone - the money went to a good cause - workmates got a good product at a friendly price and felt good about the money going to the Salvos - I have a hobby that I enjoy - and also feel satisfied by supporting a good cause DocBee, Melbourne Australia Article 25537 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!europa.netcrusader.net!152.163.239.129!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Lines: 34 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Jun 2000 12:28:48 GMT References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613082848.07053.00003638@ng-cc1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25537 From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) >Here >in Va. I did have to use Suit because they will nail you real good. Can >someone >point out what is their Secret? I rarely wear more than a t-shirt and veil when working bees. In hot weather I take the veil off too. Good breeding for gentleness is part of the equation, also working bees at the right time, having a calm manner, etc. I could not wear a bee suit; I have enough problems with heat exhaustion as it is. I had it once last month, where, despite lots of drinking (even gator aid), I got sick and had violent chills. Let me have a sting now and then! Whenever I work without a veil, I always keep it within reach, because there are sometimes rogue colonies. I do keep a long sleeve shirt in the truck and occasionally have to put it on. I should keep gloves, too, but I haven't lately. If your bees regularly force you to bundle up like a spaceman, you are either too worried about a sting or two, or you need to work on better breeding. Of course, any bees can have a bad day once in awhile. I am concerned about the arrival of the africanized bees. What to do then? Maybe I'll don the bee suit and put ice in the pockets? ;o) Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25538 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Two eggs in one cell Lines: 17 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Jun 2000 12:33:44 GMT References: <394594B1.118DB49@borg.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613083344.07053.00003640@ng-cc1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25538 >Do any of you know why this would happen? Three possible reasons: 1. Old queen failing, eggs on bottom of cell. Does the hive seem generally poor? Are there any drones in worker cells? Very little brood? Adults getting old and getting nasty? 2. Laying worker, eggs on side of cell 3. Young queen hasn't got the hang of it yet. Did your bees just supercede? Often a young queen will do this for the first week or so, and it will then clear up. Check again in a week. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25539 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!135.173.83.20!wnmasters3!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help Lines: 46 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 19:02:50 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.203.150 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 961009370 12.72.203.150 (Wed, 14 Jun 2000 19:02:50 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 19:02:50 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25539 Plastics Larry, plastics. Not sure what you would replace the bottom bars with. Split is the proper type for crimped wire. Were the frames well drawn with comb attached at the bottom bars? Newly drawn frames can be quite fragile for the first couple of extractions. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there "Larry W" wrote in message news:3946cd11_2@news.vic.com... > Today I started extracting my newest hives, I pulled 13 super frames. I put > them 2 at a time in the extractor and started to spin it, no matter how slow > I spun it I blew out the frames. I went through about 6 of them before I > realized what the problem was. 2 months ago I bought 30 super frames and > wax. from a place in NC I wont mention the name but the initials are BM. I > originally ordered duraguilt but after consulting the NG I decided to change > it to standard was, so I reordered the proper frames but they sent me split > bottom bars. Not wanting to return them and reorder I built all my super > frames with split bottom bars. So when I spun the frames the wires lifted up > out of the bottom bars and broke the wax. I couldn't even get al the honey > out. > The question is what do I do to repair the damage? Can I somehow just > replace the bottom bars? Should I order some new bottom bars. Does anybody > know an easier fix? Do I have to replace the wax that's broken? Any Ideas > would be appreciated. I just put the frames back on the hive to get them > cleaned up. > > Thanks > > Larry > > Article 25540 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed1.earthlink.net!newsfeed2.earthlink.net!newsfeed.earthlink.net!newsmaster1.prod.itd.earthlink.net!newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "doona" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <20000613082848.07053.00003638@ng-cc1.aol.com> <8i6bpl$iu0$1@news.smartworld.net> Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Lines: 78 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:40:59 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 63.36.30.143 X-Complaints-To: abuse@earthlink.net X-Trace: newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net 961004459 63.36.30.143 (Wed, 14 Jun 2000 10:40:59 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 10:40:59 PDT Organization: EarthLink Inc. -- http://www.EarthLink.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25540 Hi; I don't have a bee suit, but I did get a bee jacket, I can get it off and on over a T-shirt quick and it keeps the bee off my arms and face. A white shirt and hat with Vail would work just as good. I keep my hives in the woods so we don't get to hot. In the south it can get hot in the shade. I love to read the messages in this news group every one is so sweet and funny, just like the bees. Donna "Allen Dick" wrote in message news:8i6bpl$iu0$1@news.smartworld.net... > > I rarely wear more than a t-shirt and veil when working bees. > > Suit yourself, Dave, but I like to wear pants too:) > > > I could not wear a bee suit; I have enough problems with heat > exhaustion as > > it is. > > Actually, as I get older, I do wear a bee suit a lot of the time, and I wear > it to stay cool as much as anything. It is also a fast way to dress in the > morning. > > But I don't just wear any bee suit. I wear a XXXL made of very light > material, and I wear only undershorts underneath on warm days. Boxers or > briefs? That would be telling, wouldn't it? > > The baggy suit is very comfortable -- and cool. I wear it for the sun more > than for the bees, and since I change it often, it is nice and clean. I > sometimes carry a spare. The white reflects the sun and is cool compared to > bare skin, which is what was mostly exposed when I was younger. > > I used to pull honey in only cut-offs and sandals, often with no veil, but > those days are gone. I know too many people with skin cancer spots. IMO, > those Sheriff style veils we wear are going to kill a lot of beekeepers with > their open tops. If they don't kill us, they can at least take the blame > for those ugly age spots on the temples. I wish they would put some fabric > on the top portion instead of screen. Nobody has eyes up there. There is > something to say in favour of the traditional helmet. > > When I drive up in my white suit, everyone knows I'm "that beekeeper" and > don't have to spend time deciding who I am. All my guys wear clean bee > suits for reasons of public relations and pride. We use a linen service, in > fact. It is worth it. Our guys in white are a familiar sight in the fields > too and we aren't confused with less desirable people who might be seen on > the farmers place at all hours of day and night. > > Our guys tend to like thicker tighter suits than I do, and I don't know how > they can stand it. One thing worth mentioning: we carry a bucket of clean > water and pour it over our heads every so often if it is really warm. Some > beekeepers have a water pressure tank under the deck and can spray each > other down if things get too bad. Maybe I'll build one of those and we can > have some good water fights. > > allen > -- > A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ > Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant > feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring > splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... > > > > > Article 25541 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 14:45:56 -0500 Lines: 66 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.75 Message-ID: <3947df6e_1@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 14 Jun 2000 15:39:26 -0400, 208.24.176.75 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.75 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25541 I guess the proper term is divided bottom bar and the foundation was wired but not cross wired and was the first extraction on that newly drawn foundation. Im starting to believe the biggest problem was the consistency of the honey it is very think and slooow. Larry "George Styer" wrote in message news:uFQ15.1383$Uw3.97537@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... > Plastics Larry, plastics. > > Not sure what you would replace the bottom bars with. Split is the proper > type for crimped wire. Were the frames well drawn with comb attached at the > bottom bars? Newly drawn frames can be quite fragile for the first couple of > extractions. > > -- > Geo > Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley > "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" > gstyLer@worldnet.att.net > To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there > > > "Larry W" wrote in message > news:3946cd11_2@news.vic.com... > > Today I started extracting my newest hives, I pulled 13 super frames. I > put > > them 2 at a time in the extractor and started to spin it, no matter how > slow > > I spun it I blew out the frames. I went through about 6 of them before I > > realized what the problem was. 2 months ago I bought 30 super frames and > > wax. from a place in NC I wont mention the name but the initials are BM. I > > originally ordered duraguilt but after consulting the NG I decided to > change > > it to standard was, so I reordered the proper frames but they sent me > split > > bottom bars. Not wanting to return them and reorder I built all my super > > frames with split bottom bars. So when I spun the frames the wires lifted > up > > out of the bottom bars and broke the wax. I couldn't even get al the honey > > out. > > The question is what do I do to repair the damage? Can I somehow just > > replace the bottom bars? Should I order some new bottom bars. Does anybody > > know an easier fix? Do I have to replace the wax that's broken? Any Ideas > > would be appreciated. I just put the frames back on the hive to get them > > cleaned up. > > > > Thanks > > > > Larry > > > > > > Article 25542 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!xmission!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.Arizona.EDU!not-for-mail From: John Edwards Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:43:17 -0700 Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Lines: 13 Message-ID: <3947D244.D01D62FC@tucson.ars.ag.gov> References: <8i6531$17e$1@campus3.mtu.edu> <20000613172146.03648.00002798@ng-ba1.aol.com> <3946c7a5_2@news.vic.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: feral-bee.tucson.ars.ag.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en,pdf Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25542 Larry W wrote: > still HOT. Where can I get one of those fan hats? They've been here and there since the mid-80s - try these links : http://www.global-merchants.com/home/safari.htm - this one is priced pretty high http://www.crystalbay.net/solarworks/solar-hat.html - this one would be difficult to use with a veil. - John Edwards, Tucson - (I have no financial interest in these companies) Article 25543 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!howland.erols.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: kamtout@together.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Two eggs in one cell Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 21:03:10 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 45 Message-ID: <8i8ru0$gl4$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <394594B1.118DB49@borg.com> <20000613083344.07053.00003640@ng-cc1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.144.236.186 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 14 21:03:10 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.72 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x70.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 199.144.236.186 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDkamtout Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25543 In article <20000613083344.07053.00003640@ng-cc1.aol.com>, pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) wrote: > >Do any of you know why this would happen? Yes I do have an additional reason. I found a perfectly good queen do it this spring in nuc I bought. You've made an assumption first hand that must be verified. Were both eggs alive? or did they just look alive? Look carefully. What we surmised is since we only found 5 or 6 cells with double eggs. and they were properly positioned(center,bottom) AND the only place she did this was on the outside top perimeter of her pattern was that during one of our spring cold snaps the cluster shrank too much and some of the outside eggs died. The queen new these eggs were dead and replaced them. Careful examination revealed that the 24-48 hour larvae/egg was indeed dead,dried and the egg planted right next to it was fine. If you see hundreds either you got laying workers or your queen is on Atrazine or something. None noticed since anyway. Seems the most logical reason we could come up with. Mike > Three possible reasons: > 1. Old queen failing, eggs on bottom of cell. Does the hive seem generally > poor? Are there any drones in worker cells? Very little brood? Adults getting > old and getting nasty? > 2. Laying worker, eggs on side of cell > 3. Young queen hasn't got the hang of it yet. Did your bees just supercede? > Often a young queen will do this for the first week or so, and it will then > clear up. Check again in a week. > > Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA > The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com > > Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) > http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25544 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.enteract.com!netnews.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: kamtout@together.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 20:22:55 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 19 Message-ID: <8i8pia$elo$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.144.236.186 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 14 20:22:55 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.72 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x66.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 199.144.236.186 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDkamtout Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25544 Larry, As mentioned previously, you shouldn't be breaking any combs. I've extracted hundreds, new,old,small,medium and large with a tangential extractor and am still waiting to break the first one. I moved to using a radial last year and had some eye openers there. More caution required until you get the feel for it. after uncapping your frames and putting them in the extractor the faces of the combs should be pressing flat against a screen or cage. if they aren't you'd probably have trouble getting Pierco frames to stay put. It's not the foundations or bars for sure but look at the extractor setup because something's not right. If you want to flop combs try a radial then you can tell the Duragilts from the the wax. theDuragilts will be the ones sliding down the wall..... Mike Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25545 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!nycmny1-snh1.gtei.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: kamtout@together.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: swarming Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 20:34:45 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 17 Message-ID: <8i8q94$f5e$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <8i43v9$fc8@atlas.lcc.net> <8i6m1l$s5u$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.144.236.186 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 14 20:34:45 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.72 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x55.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 199.144.236.186 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDkamtout Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25545 Peter, The 'hanging beards' thing is what came to mind when I looked at them. I'm glad you liked it.I took pictures too. they would hang off the bottom board probably 6 inches or more and nearly as wide. It was ugly hot and humid then. No big deal, I hear it's what they do. Mike > Yeah, I think they like to do that. It would be like sitting out on the > front porch in the Carolinas with hk1beeman. I like your reference to > "hanging beards" of bees. > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25546 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newspeer.monmouth.com!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: kamtout@together.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Light, Heat and Location Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 20:52:20 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 16 Message-ID: <8i8r9r$g45$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <8hc2e9$5ae$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.144.236.186 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 14 20:52:20 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.72 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x66.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 199.144.236.186 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDkamtout Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25546 In case you hadn't noticed it's pretty darn dark in a hive any way. In my humble opinion the reason you want very early sun is to warm the hives up. it can make a difference of several hours of honeygathering time if they get it late. 51 degrees is the magic number. Lower-no honey bee activity.At or higher-off they go. Bumblebees fly alot cooler temps. look around some early morning. Granted in Feb when they have to crap they'll fly around a bit in the 20's but the heated air from the tarpaper can be easily 70 degrees or greater even then. Bees work all night building comb,tending brood etc. and the starlight doesn't probably light up their life so to speak. It's the heat... Mike Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25547 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!cyclone.swbell.net!cyclone-sf.pbi.net!206.13.28.125!cyclone-transit.snfc21.pbi.net!216.218.192.242!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!news.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "Dusty Bleher" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What a disaster! (long) Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 13:56:07 -0700 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 29 Message-ID: References: <393E9274.446C0BE2@formida.com> <393EC2FF.4498EC1@midwest.net> <8i6e1n$hpa$2@lure.pipex.net> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25547 Why thank you, Pamela? Martin? Actually the pain was mostly in the regret at the loss of the hive and so much brood...and the anticipation of the endless cleanup! I only got stung twice. Once, as I was squatted down on my thigh when I squashed one under my arm. And once in my finger as I was putting up boards to cover the outside. I had to do that with no gloves on because they were so slippery and sticky that I couldn't handle the nails or the hammer... Dumping bees in the dark, hu? Now *that* must have been one to write home about...(:-)! Any of you other readers have any good "disaster" stories to share? Besides being entertaining, there's usually a lot of good lessons to be had... And learning is after all what we're here for, isn't it? Best regards all, Dusty Bleher San Jose, Ca. "Pamela Buckle" wrote in message news:8i6e1n$hpa$2@lure.pipex.net... > Dusty, you had a lifetime's beekeeping disaster in one experience - What Martin. Article 25548 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!attbtf!att541!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Origins of Resistant AFB Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 14:14:54 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 12 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust45.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8i9015$2s$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <8i5cq3$47n$1@news.smartworld.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust45.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25548 "Barry Metz" wrote in message news:yhL15.82$nX1.6595637@news.interact.net.au... > Perhaps you should check Australian Research and what is generally accepted > fact about the gratuous and I might say negligent uncontrolled use of any > antibiotic in any part of the food chain Maybe I have and maybe that is why I wrote what I did. allen Article 25549 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8i6531$17e$1@campus3.mtu.edu> <20000613172146.03648.00002798@ng-ba1.aol.com> <3946c7a5_2@news.vic.com> <3947D244.D01D62FC@tucson.ars.ag.gov> Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:01:51 -0500 Lines: 26 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.75 Message-ID: <3947ff48_1@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 14 Jun 2000 17:55:20 -0400, 208.24.176.75 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.75 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25549 Thanks, I found the same one for $39.95 http://www.qmgsales.com/sbt/Qstore/p000049.htm ever had any bees try to get through the fan blades? Larry "John Edwards" wrote in message news:3947D244.D01D62FC@tucson.ars.ag.gov... > > Larry W wrote: > > > still HOT. Where can I get one of those fan hats? > > They've been here and there since the mid-80s - try these links : > http://www.global-merchants.com/home/safari.htm > - this one is priced pretty high > http://www.crystalbay.net/solarworks/solar-hat.html > - this one would be difficult to use with a veil. > > - John Edwards, Tucson - (I have no financial interest in these companies) > Article 25550 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honey Lines: 30 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 13 Jun 2000 12:48:02 GMT References: <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613084802.07053.00003643@ng-cc1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25550 From: "Larry W" larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net >Since many of us in this NG could be classified as hobbyist 1 - 6 hives, Im >wondering what you do with your honey? I got about 6 gals off one hive and >am fixing to get about 10 more gallons off my other 3. When you reach the point where you can't use it all, and you can't give it all away, you come to the point of selling it. Bee aware that this is a quantum leap. Once you sell you product, it is subject to many laws. Health inspectors in most US states will not allow you to sell honey that is packaged on your kitchen counter. So get information on label laws, acceptable packing procedures and equipment, etc. Much of this is online now. Years ago, when I put honey into our local produce stand the first time; the inspector was at my door within about two weeks. He's been a frequent visitor ever since. One more thing. Hobbyists sometimes make it tough for those of us who make a living from honey sales, because you don't value your time. Keep your prices in line with the market, and we'll all make a fair return. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25551 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!pitt.edu!newsflash.concordia.ca!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newspeer.monmouth.com!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: drezac@greenapple.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honey Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 12:54:05 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 22 Message-ID: <8i5at6$s7s$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 4.18.4.231 X-Article-Creation-Date: Tue Jun 13 12:54:05 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.01; Windows NT) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 PROXY2, 1.0 x51.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 4.18.4.231 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDdrezac Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25551 In article <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com>, "Larry W" wrote: > Since many of us in this NG could be classified as hobbyist 1 - 6 hives, Im > wondering what you do with your honey? I got about 6 gals off one hive and > am fixing to get about 10 more gallons off my other 3. > > Larry > > You could use it to make mead - check out rec.crafts.brewing - you should be able to get some information on it there.. -- Duane L. Rezac drezac@greenapple.com www.greenapple.com/~drezac Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25552 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!feedwest.news.agis.net!agis!news.alt.net!wcoil.com!usenet From: tarheit@wcoil.com (Tim Arheit) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: 13 Jun 2000 13:40:03 GMT Lines: 29 Message-ID: <8i5djj$dli$0@208.10.2.103> References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <20000613064136.26057.00003705@ng-cu1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.10.2.103 X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.11/32.235 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25552 On 13 Jun 2000 10:41:36 GMT, beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) wrote: >The secret to not getting stung on video is editing. >But if you choose a good sunny day during a flow a puff of smoke is about all >you need to handle bees. >I still say protect your eyes. >And a bee sting inside your nose really makes your eyes water and makes it hard >to climb down the tree with a swarm. > > > >Tom > > > >There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Depends on the conditions (there are sometimes I can't walk though the bee yard without a few bees taking it as a threat). Also depends on the beekeepers resistance/reaction to the stings. Some can brush it off. I've read that some use a sting on their hands as a sign to use a bit more smoke. I couldn't possibly go without a veil and gloves. If i get stung on the hands or soft parts of the face (under the eyes) it swells up something fierce. In other locations (neck, arms, back, top of head) it's no worse then a mosqito bite. -Tim Article 25553 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!12.127.17.134!attbtf!att542!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Origins of Resistant AFB Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 07:35:39 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 96 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@cust62.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca Message-ID: <8i5cq3$47n$1@news.smartworld.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: cust62.tnt1.dial.cal1.uunet.ca X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25553 A number of prominent people in positions of authority -- and who should know better -- have lately been repeating conjecture as fact. I'm talking about the slander against antibiotic extender patties. As far as I know, there is not a shred of proof that they are a cause of oxytetracycline (OTC) resistance in the bacillus that causes American Foulbrood (AFB). The mechanisms behind resistance appearing are many and generally badly misunderstood. Many of the ideas promulgated in the popular media are simplistic at best and just plain wrong and dangerous at worse. The mechanism(s) by which an organism may develop resistance to a particular substance depends on the organism and the environment. A practice that is a cause of resistance developing in one case may be the prescription for preventing resistance in another. In the past several years, a number of mechanisms that were simply unbelievable in the past have become common knowledge. On is horizontal gene transfer. Please check out http://www.sciam.com/1998/0398issue/0398levy.html where you will find the following statement: "Bacteria can acquire resistance genes through a few routes. Many inherit the genes from their forerunners. Other times, genetic mutations, which occur readily in bacteria, will spontaneously produce a new resistance trait or will strengthen an existing one. And frequently, bacteria will gain a defence against an antibiotic by taking up resistance genes from other bacterial cells in the vicinity. Indeed, the exchange of genes is so pervasive that the entire bacterial world can be thought of as one huge multicellular organism in which the cells interchange their genes with ease." http://www.sciam.com/1998/0398issue/0398levybox2.html is another interesting reference, as is http://www.pilotonline.com/news/op0420ant.html I also quote below the text of a letter I wrote to a friend of mine who is also a regulator: ---- begin quote --- "I notice you repeated the suggestion that extender patties may cause resistant AFB... I have phoned and written around to trace the origin of this rumour some time back, and have not been able to find any credible source for it. In the process, I have, however found a number of people I respect who think it lacks any merit and just provides a handy scapegoat. I personally have a very high opinion of this method of control and it distresses me to see my neighbours who were hit hard by AFB in 1998 and saved entirely from AFB in 1999 -- in spite of showing positive for resistant AFB due to buying equipment from (deleted) -- scraping off the patties earlier this spring when they read the newsletter. I hope they don't go through the 1998 experience again. From my 30 years experience with AFB and the various controls, I am worried that we are discarding the best method -- by far -- I have ever seen (since sulfa) for AFB control -- on the basis of mere rumours and speculation. Do you have access something that proves more than an anecdotal, hypothetical, or circumstantial linkage? If so, I would certainly appreciate being made aware of any evidence or scientific study that in any way proves the allegations against a product developed by the USDA and duly tested and licensed for sale and use in the USA. In view of the rigour of US testing and regulation, I would expect that if there were any merit to the hypothesis, that Mann Lake would be forced to take it off the market. They say that is not happening. As for more credible explanations for emergence of resistance , I submit horizontal gene transfer -- possibly related to accidental side-effects of genetic modification work -- as the original cause fro the sudden emergence, and trade in honey and bee equipment as the mode of spread. The former is hard to prove, but I suspect will eventually be the accepted explanation. The latter is obvious and ongoing: the spread in the case of equipment is not hard to follow. As for spread due to international sale and housewives discarding honey into open landfills and bees licking out imported honey drums, that is again hard to trace. How many *unique* cases of resistance evolving can we document? And, how many cases are just the spread of the same outbreak?" --- end quote ---- Lets either prove this allegation -- or drive a stake through its heart once and for all. allen -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Thousands served... Article 25554 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!newsfeed01.sul.t-online.de!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!diablo.theplanet.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: NEED HELP IN ENGLAND Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 23:35:14 +0100 Message-ID: References: <394013D6.2466D053@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 961024137 nnrp-07:9601 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 32 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25554 In article <394013D6.2466D053@uidaho.edu>, Matthew Pollard writes > THE OTHER DAY MY DAUGHTER NOTICED A SWARM OF BEES IN >OUR >GARDEN THE NEXT MORNING I NOTICED THEY HAD TAKEN UP RESIDENCE IN OUR >DOVE >COTE. > >I LIKE BEES BUT I DON'T LIKE THE IDEA OF THIS AMOUNT OF BEES IN MY >GARDEN >AND WOULD LIKE THEM MOVED WITHOUT HARM TO THE BEES. > >I WOULD LIKE TO ASK YOU, WHO CAN I GET TO REMOVE THEM >IS THERE ANYONE IN MY AREA THAT COULD/WOULD DO IT I LIVE IN THE >STAFFORDSHIRE/WARWICKSHIRE AREA (UK). The local association members would surely help. The contact 18 months ago was Celia Davis 01676 533252. If that doesn't work try bbka on 01203 690666 mailto:bees@bbka.demon.co.uk. In any case the local police and District Council keep a list of beekeepers willing to come out. >ARE THEY DANGEROUS, SHOULD I KEEP MY KIDS FROM PLAYING IN THE GARDEN, >AND IS >THERE ANYMORE ADVICE YOU CAN GIVE ME..............THANKS The bees can be tested bravely by you approaching gingerly towards the box. If they investigate you, you could brave it out and see if they shoo you away. You may be able to walk right up to them. Be ready to run to a dark place like a shed. Have it open at the ready. They'll want to get back to the light. As they establish, the temper may get worse and on thundery/electric days also if the nectar flow dries up. I would advise getting them out as they are unpredictable in both short and long term. The box can be taken away and returned when the job is done. -- James Kilty Article 25555 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Mapping bee wings Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 23:59:20 +0100 Message-ID: References: <38e9144b.609420@news.freeserve.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 961024138 nnrp-07:9601 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 23 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25555 In article <38e9144b.609420@news.freeserve.net>, Steve Newport writes >Somebody I heard the other day was discussing a method by which you >could section the wing of a bee and make a graph from the various >veins etc to confirm the strain of bee you have is consistent. > >Does anybody have more info on this? Yes. >What is it called? morphology >Any idea where I can read more about it? Beowulf Cooper's Honeybees of the British Isles, BIBBA. There are lots of good publications by BIBBA. Try http://www.bibba.com for information about BIBBA. Otherwise contact Alan Hinchley, BIBBA Postal Sales, Meadow Croft Apiaries, 2 Birchwood Rd, Alfreton, Derbyshire, UK, DE55 7HB. Telephone 01773-832086. The book costs £12.96 plus £1.40 postage. It may be £6 to anyone not a member. Ask. There is a drawn "chart" which you align with a projection of the selected wing and adjust to read off a key vein ratio. Membership is very worthwhile if you want to rear better bees. -- James Kilty Article 25556 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed1.earthlink.net!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.Arizona.EDU!not-for-mail From: John Edwards Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:03:51 -0700 Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Lines: 16 Message-ID: <39481D66.1F4E94EF@tucson.ars.ag.gov> References: <8i6531$17e$1@campus3.mtu.edu> <20000613172146.03648.00002798@ng-ba1.aol.com> <3946c7a5_2@news.vic.com> <3947D244.D01D62FC@tucson.ars.ag.gov> <3947ff48_1@news.vic.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: feral-bee.tucson.ars.ag.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en,pdf Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25556 Larry W wrote: > Thanks, I found the same one for $39.95 > http://www.qmgsales.com/sbt/Qstore/p000049.htm > > ever had any bees try to get through the fan blades? We don't have one, but I believe I'd put a cone of hardware cloth over the fan intake or risk having chopped bees falling on my face !!! - John Edwards, Tucson http://198.22.133.109/ http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/home/edwards/edwards.html Article 25557 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8i6531$17e$1@campus3.mtu.edu> <20000613172146.03648.00002798@ng-ba1.aol.com> <3946c7a5_2@news.vic.com> <3947D244.D01D62FC@tucson.ars.ag.gov> <3947ff48_1@news.vic.com> <39481D66.1F4E94EF@tucson.ars.ag.gov> Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 20:34:30 -0500 Lines: 26 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.70 Message-ID: <39483121_2@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 14 Jun 2000 21:28:01 -0400, 208.24.176.70 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newscon04.news.prodigy.com!prodigy.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.70 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25557 Yea good Idea and for $40 its almost trying one but I think blowing on your neck would cool you more. I think Ill buy one and make a report. The Wife says she would use it when mowing the yard. Larry "John Edwards" wrote in message news:39481D66.1F4E94EF@tucson.ars.ag.gov... > > > Larry W wrote: > > > Thanks, I found the same one for $39.95 > > http://www.qmgsales.com/sbt/Qstore/p000049.htm > > > > ever had any bees try to get through the fan blades? > > We don't have one, but I believe I'd put a cone of hardware cloth over > the fan intake or risk having chopped bees falling on my face !!! > - John Edwards, Tucson > http://198.22.133.109/ > http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/home/edwards/edwards.html > > Article 25558 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: Judy and Dave Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:16:25 -0400 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 41 Message-ID: <39483C79.3688D4A8@fuse.net> References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> Reply-To: dublgully@fuse.net X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en]C-CCK-MCD compaq (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25558 Hey Larry. We use wooden frames, with wired wax foundation and split bottoms. Did you add additional wire to your frames? It is probably not necessary to add additional wire to brood comb because it is seldom extracted. However, we always recommend our newbees add horizontal wire to any super frames. This prevents them from warping when they are extracted. We usually have a framing meeting when everyone brings their frames and we all put them together and install foundation. It is easier to have someone recommend a different hand hold or nail hold when everyone is fumbling at the same time. Don't think it was the split bottom boards. Judy in Kentucky Larry W wrote: > Today I started extracting my newest hives, I pulled 13 super frames. I put > them 2 at a time in the extractor and started to spin it, no matter how slow > I spun it I blew out the frames. I went through about 6 of them before I > realized what the problem was. 2 months ago I bought 30 super frames and > wax. from a place in NC I wont mention the name but the initials are BM. I > originally ordered duraguilt but after consulting the NG I decided to change > it to standard was, so I reordered the proper frames but they sent me split > bottom bars. Not wanting to return them and reorder I built all my super > frames with split bottom bars. So when I spun the frames the wires lifted up > out of the bottom bars and broke the wax. I couldn't even get al the honey > out. > The question is what do I do to repair the damage? Can I somehow just > replace the bottom bars? Should I order some new bottom bars. Does anybody > know an easier fix? Do I have to replace the wax that's broken? Any Ideas > would be appreciated. I just put the frames back on the hive to get them > cleaned up. > > Thanks > > Larry Article 25559 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp1.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39485F08.DF466181@indy.net> From: Tobi Elmore Organization: Arsenal Technical High School X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: temperment of bees References: <392439C9.58FE50E7@kingston.net> <28594-39254F3B-43@storefull-137.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 21 Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 23:43:52 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.183.122.120 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp1.onemain.com 961043844 209.183.122.120 (Thu, 15 Jun 2000 00:37:24 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 00:37:24 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25559 OLne of the usda Bee Research labortories is located in Baton Rouge so I think you are ok in New orleans. Tobi Melissa wrote: > Thanks so much Kent, for the information. Could you also tell me what > bees consider to be bad weather. I live in New Orleans, and the weather > is very hot and humid here. June brings daily thundershowers but > temperatures in the mid to upper 90's. > > Thanks Again! > > Melissa > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------- > [Image] > BeeKeepingJournal Article 25560 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> <3947ba7a_1@news.vic.com> Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 00:46:02 -0500 Lines: 120 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.62 Message-ID: <39486c18_1@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 15 Jun 2000 01:39:36 -0400, 208.24.176.62 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.62 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25560 Peter: Having read that web page, Im wondering why someone that has a Langstroth hive doesn't just use a standard brood box for the bottom and an empty brood box on the top with standard brood frames with 1" of starter wax as a super. Wont the bees build comb there? It would seem that if you already own some Langstroth equipment you wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel. Has anybody tried it? Larry "Peter Amschel" wrote in message news:MPG.13b1fbd4318c84269896f1@news.pe.net... > Here is Jim Satterfield from Georgia's site: > > http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm > > > I just harvested about 30 lbs of comb from my one top bar hive last > weekend. This season I have the bottom board of my hive fixed up on > hinges and gate hooks so I can open the bottom completely. Then I pried > off the top bars and used a long, metal barbeque spatula to separate the > comb from the sides of the hive one at a time so that the comb would drop > down into my other hand and then I usee the bee brush to brush off as > many bees as possible and then I placed the comb into a big, metal mixing > bowl and then moved on to detach the next comb in the hive. I worked only > one end of the hive. If you've read prior reports here, I had placed Bee > Bob's langstroth honey super frames down into the top bar hive so that > this is really a combination top bar and langstroth hive. The queen has > evidently taken refuge in the langstroth part of the hive and so the comb > I harvested on one end of the hive had very few brood cells in it but was > mostly capped honey and some pollen. I am thinking of putting a queen > excluder screen in there next time, but wouldn't she just go over the top > of the excluder if she wanted to? > Anyway, after I had detached, lowered and brushed off the combs I then > took off my bee gloves and removed the remaining bees and bee parts from > the comb. I used Japanese chop sticks and toothpicks to do the final > cleanup and I broke the comb into sizes to fit into plastic bags and then > washed off the bags with warm water. I got some big, fat, beautiful, > blonde comb just dripping with exquisite goodness. One part of the comb > was darker and had a different flavor. I got stung 3 times on my finger > tips! > > > > > > > > > > > In article <3947ba7a_1@news.vic.com>, larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net says... > > > > > > Peter, what is the web page for the Top Bar information? I was there last > > year but lost the link. > > > > Thanks > > > > Larry > > > > "Peter Amschel" wrote in message > > news:MPG.13b0aa4696827ce39896ed@news.pe.net... > > > Bummer, dude. You might want to try top bar hives, less labor intensive > > > and real fine honeycomb. > > > > > > > > > In article <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com>, larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net says... > > > > Today I started extracting my newest hives, I pulled 13 super frames. I > > put > > > > them 2 at a time in the extractor and started to spin it, no matter how > > slow > > > > I spun it I blew out the frames. I went through about 6 of them before I > > > > realized what the problem was. 2 months ago I bought 30 super frames and > > > > wax. from a place in NC I wont mention the name but the initials are BM. > > I > > > > originally ordered duraguilt but after consulting the NG I decided to > > change > > > > it to standard was, so I reordered the proper frames but they sent me > > split > > > > bottom bars. Not wanting to return them and reorder I built all my super > > > > frames with split bottom bars. So when I spun the frames the wires > > lifted up > > > > out of the bottom bars and broke the wax. I couldn't even get al the > > honey > > > > out. > > > > The question is what do I do to repair the damage? Can I somehow > > just > > > > replace the bottom bars? Should I order some new bottom bars. Does > > anybody > > > > know an easier fix? Do I have to replace the wax that's broken? Any > > Ideas > > > > would be appreciated. I just put the frames back on the hive to get them > > > > cleaned up. > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > Larry > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Article 25561 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-peer.gip.net!news.gsl.net!gip.net!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help Message-ID: References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> <3947ba7a_1@news.vic.com> X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.30.1784 Lines: 94 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 00:34:55 EDT Organization: WebUseNet Corp http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 21:30:51 -0700 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25561 Here is Jim Satterfield from Georgia's site: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm I just harvested about 30 lbs of comb from my one top bar hive last weekend. This season I have the bottom board of my hive fixed up on hinges and gate hooks so I can open the bottom completely. Then I pried off the top bars and used a long, metal barbeque spatula to separate the comb from the sides of the hive one at a time so that the comb would drop down into my other hand and then I usee the bee brush to brush off as many bees as possible and then I placed the comb into a big, metal mixing bowl and then moved on to detach the next comb in the hive. I worked only one end of the hive. If you've read prior reports here, I had placed Bee Bob's langstroth honey super frames down into the top bar hive so that this is really a combination top bar and langstroth hive. The queen has evidently taken refuge in the langstroth part of the hive and so the comb I harvested on one end of the hive had very few brood cells in it but was mostly capped honey and some pollen. I am thinking of putting a queen excluder screen in there next time, but wouldn't she just go over the top of the excluder if she wanted to? Anyway, after I had detached, lowered and brushed off the combs I then took off my bee gloves and removed the remaining bees and bee parts from the comb. I used Japanese chop sticks and toothpicks to do the final cleanup and I broke the comb into sizes to fit into plastic bags and then washed off the bags with warm water. I got some big, fat, beautiful, blonde comb just dripping with exquisite goodness. One part of the comb was darker and had a different flavor. I got stung 3 times on my finger tips! In article <3947ba7a_1@news.vic.com>, larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net says... > Peter, what is the web page for the Top Bar information? I was there last > year but lost the link. > > Thanks > > Larry > > "Peter Amschel" wrote in message > news:MPG.13b0aa4696827ce39896ed@news.pe.net... > > Bummer, dude. You might want to try top bar hives, less labor intensive > > and real fine honeycomb. > > > > > > In article <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com>, larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net says... > > > Today I started extracting my newest hives, I pulled 13 super frames. I > put > > > them 2 at a time in the extractor and started to spin it, no matter how > slow > > > I spun it I blew out the frames. I went through about 6 of them before I > > > realized what the problem was. 2 months ago I bought 30 super frames and > > > wax. from a place in NC I wont mention the name but the initials are BM. > I > > > originally ordered duraguilt but after consulting the NG I decided to > change > > > it to standard was, so I reordered the proper frames but they sent me > split > > > bottom bars. Not wanting to return them and reorder I built all my super > > > frames with split bottom bars. So when I spun the frames the wires > lifted up > > > out of the bottom bars and broke the wax. I couldn't even get al the > honey > > > out. > > > The question is what do I do to repair the damage? Can I somehow > just > > > replace the bottom bars? Should I order some new bottom bars. Does > anybody > > > know an easier fix? Do I have to replace the wax that's broken? Any > Ideas > > > would be appreciated. I just put the frames back on the hive to get them > > > cleaned up. > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > Larry > > > > > > > > > > > > Article 25562 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newsfeed.mathworks.com!nntp.flash.net!news.flash.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39486225.AF594F2F@flash.net> From: Joe Esposito X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Newbie References: <3937F7BE.D28B675B@flash.net> <8hmbn9$hvs$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 11 Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 04:57:56 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.179.164.30 X-Complaints-To: abuse@flash.net X-Trace: news.flash.net 961045076 199.179.164.30 (Wed, 14 Jun 2000 23:57:56 CDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 23:57:56 CDT Organization: FlashNet Communications, http://www.flash.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25562 I must have read it somewhere or maybe just assumed. But thanks to all for the encouragement. More newbie (new bee?) advice would be greatly appreciated. Glenn West wrote: > I'm curious as to why you treated pkg bees. > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Before you buy. Article 25563 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!199.79.239.47!news-peer.ivn.net!IVI-USENET!ivi-usenet From: "Spike Psarris" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: "Queenless roar" Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 00:24:12 -0600 Organization: Internet Ventures Usenet Services Lines: 19 Message-ID: <8i9smb$1k9r$1@hardcore.ivn.net> Reply-To: "Spike Psarris" NNTP-Posting-Host: dro-6-28.frontier.net X-Trace: hardcore.ivn.net 961050123 53563 207.174.108.28 (15 Jun 2000 06:22:03 GMT) X-Complaints-To: news-admin@ivn.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 15 Jun 2000 06:22:03 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25563 I've heard/read that a queenless hive makes a distinctive roar. I just combined two hives, and when I checked on it this week they seemed to have combined OK, but sounded stressed. I got rid of the queen in the weaker hive before combining, and there were only 2 frames of bees left in that hive anyway, so I can't imagine that the combining was that big of a deal. There's a nice flow on, and the 2 other hives in the same location are happy as can be. They had enough room (each hive had a couple of undrawn frames of foundation), so I can't figure what the problem could have been. I didn't have time to look for the queen last time, but guess I'll have to next time. Unless there are alternative explanations? Thanks for any advice. -- replace "junkfree" with "spike" to reply Article 25564 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!12.127.16.134!attmtf!att541!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Light, Heat and Location Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 08:27:10 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 18 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@1cust210.tnt3.calgary.ab.da.uu.net Message-ID: <8iaon5$ri$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <8hc2e9$5ae$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <8i8r9r$g45$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 1cust210.tnt3.calgary.ab.da.uu.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25564 > In case you hadn't noticed it's pretty darn dark in a hive any way. In > my humble opinion the reason you want very early sun is to warm the > hives up. it can make a difference of several hours of honeygathering > time ... This is true. Another factor is the light at the entrance. Shading the entrances will reduce flights quite considerably in early morning. We use this to our advantage when moving bees. We use tarps over the hives, and this allows us to move in early morning without bee loss. I remember at ABF several years ago hearing a US migratory beekeeper say that he uses greenhouse shade cloth instead of the normal bee screens on his semis because the shade cloth is cheaper and ventilates well enough, but also keeps the bees in better due to the shade. allen Article 25565 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!pitt.edu!not-for-mail From: Tony Capon Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Two eggs in one cell Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 09:51:28 -0400 Organization: University of Pittsburgh at Johnstown Lines: 97 Message-ID: <3948DF60.AA877284@pitt.edu> References: <394594B1.118DB49@borg.com> <20000613083344.07053.00003640@ng-cc1.aol.com> <8i8ru0$gl4$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: toftrees.upj.pitt.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------E89E5D9911CB1540453F8D3B" X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en To: kamtout@together.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25565 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------E89E5D9911CB1540453F8D3B Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If's she a new queen, she may be defective and have become a drone-layer. Happened to me this spring. Ordered a package from a reputable queen breeder. Checked it two weeks after installing and queen seemed to be alright with some worker brood. Two weeks later I noticed that she was also laying some drone brood, which is a bit unusual for a new queen in a new colony. Was in the colony yesterday. She is still there, but is laying nothing but drone eggs in worker cells. Also have some cells with more than one egg. I may have laying workers in there as well, since some of the cells have both eggs in funny spots, some have one egg on the bottom and one on the side of the cell.. I contacted the breeder, who said it is something that he has heard of rarely before, and he is going to replace the queen. It will be an interesting requening. I'm probably going to take a strong colony and split it. I'll put the queen from the strong colony, along with most of the brood and bees, on the site of the drone layer. I'll use the rest of the split to install the new queen on its original site. I'll kill the drone layer and shake the bees off of all of the frames in the colony about 10 - 15 feet away from its original site. I'll let the drone brood die and then put that box on a colony for them to clean out. We'll see what happens. kamtout@together.net wrote: > In article <20000613083344.07053.00003640@ng-cc1.aol.com>, > pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) wrote: > > >Do any of you know why this would happen? > Yes I do have an additional reason. > I found a perfectly good queen do it this spring in nuc I bought. > You've made an assumption first hand that must be verified. Were both > eggs alive? or did they just look alive? Look carefully. > What we surmised is since we only found 5 or 6 cells with double eggs. > and they were properly positioned(center,bottom) AND the only place she > did this was on the outside top perimeter of her pattern was that > during one of our spring cold snaps the cluster shrank too much and some > of the outside eggs died. The queen new these eggs were dead and > replaced them. > Careful examination revealed that the 24-48 hour larvae/egg was indeed > dead,dried and the egg planted right next to it was fine. > If you see hundreds either you got laying workers or your queen is on > Atrazine or something. > None noticed since anyway. > Seems the most logical reason we could come up with. > Mike > > > Three possible reasons: > > 1. Old queen failing, eggs on bottom of cell. Does the hive seem > generally > > poor? Are there any drones in worker cells? Very little brood? Adults > getting > > old and getting nasty? > > 2. Laying worker, eggs on side of cell > > 3. Young queen hasn't got the hang of it yet. Did your bees just > supercede? > > Often a young queen will do this for the first week or so, and it will > then > > clear up. Check again in a week. > > > > Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA > > The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com > > > > Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax > Candles) > > http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Before you buy. --------------E89E5D9911CB1540453F8D3B Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="tcapon.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Tony Capon Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="tcapon.vcf" begin:vcard n:Capon;Tony tel;fax:(814) 269-7255 tel;work:(814) 269-2989 x-mozilla-html:FALSE org:University of Pittsburgh at Johnstown;Sociology adr:;;104 Krebs Hall;Johnstown;PA;15904; version:2.1 email;internet:tcapon@pitt.edu title:Associate Professor x-mozilla-cpt:;22480 fn:Capon, Tony end:vcard --------------E89E5D9911CB1540453F8D3B-- Article 25566 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!wesley.videotron.net!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <3948FB3E.BA05C557@cornell.edu> From: JGinNY Reply-To: jwg6@cornell.edu X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: 10-frame spacing References: <8i9ssm$1kb0$1@hardcore.ivn.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 62 Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:45:09 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.24.11.5 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 961083909 24.24.11.5 (Thu, 15 Jun 2000 11:45:09 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 11:45:09 EDT Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25566 Depends on whether you are dealing with brood combs or honey-super combs. _Brood Combs_ The frame-shoulders are designed so that the proper bee-space is created between the combs. So with all 10 frames in there, they should be tight together. Before you close up a hive, after inspecting, use your hive tool to pry the entire set of frames tightly together. (There will be a little extra space remaining at each side wall once you've done this.) Some prefer 9 frames in the brood chambers. If they are evenly spaced out across the box, then the spaces between the comb faces will be far too wide, for brood) and you are inviting lots of drone and burr comb. A less problematic way of using 9 brood frames is to just slightly separate the frames, so there is just barely 1/8" space between the shoulders. This is not too wide a spacing for the brood nest. With the frames so spaced, the balance of the remaining "extra space" should be left at the side-walls of the box. It will be around 1/2" or so at each side. Using 10 frames, the spacing is all automatic, and so in that respect, easier. You just pry the frames tight together and that's it. Using 9 requires a certain amount of hand-spacing, at least at the beginning. It supposedly provides better ventilation and helps cut down on swarming. Also makes getting any one frame out a little easier, if the hive is all gummed up with wax and propolis. (btw, Past few years, I've been finding that some brood chambers with only 9 combs tend to have considerably more drone brood in them, and sometimes the combs aren't perfectly interchangeable, due to variation in thickness. Also there is more burr-comb/brace-comb, especially in certain predisposed colonies. The bees occasionally build swarm cells between the top-bars of a lower chamber, where they are not obvious during quick inspections. With newer equipment, especially, use of 10 brood frames obviates a lot of these problems.) _Super Combs_ In _honey supers_, it is a different situation altogether. The 9 (or 8) extracting frames *are* spaced out evenly across the super. This is wider spacing than is proper for a brood nest, but fine for the honey-storage area. The bees build the combs out further, so they are wide, and this facilitates uncapping at extracting-time. Spike Psarris wrote: > I had been under the impression that when running 10 frames (or even 9), > they should be evenly spaced. Then there were comments here recently about > having the frames all pushed together in order to get the proper spacing > between them. > > Which is correct? I seem to get bridge comb if my spacing is even a little > imperfect (with 10 frames), which is often. > > If all frames are pushed together, does this create a bigger problem with > crescent comb in the gap on the end? > > Anybody want to weigh in on this? > > -- > replace "junkfree" with "spike" to reply Article 25567 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!newshub2.rdc1.sfba.home.com!news.home.com!news1.rdc1.mb.home.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Greg" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <394594B1.118DB49@borg.com> Subject: Re: Two eggs in one cell Lines: 26 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 16:21:36 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.66.74.251 X-Complaints-To: abuse@home.net X-Trace: news1.rdc1.mb.home.com 961086096 24.66.74.251 (Thu, 15 Jun 2000 09:21:36 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 09:21:36 PDT Organization: @Home Network Canada Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25567 "Howard Cohen" wrote in message news:394594B1.118DB49@borg.com... > Do any of you know why this would happen? > I have never seen this before. Actually, I never looked so closely to notice it until recently. > I also noticed on one cell that an egg hatched while the other will probably hatch tomorrow as they were both laid at the same time. > > Also on another note, I just read the message posted on 5/12 about the passing of Dr. Roger Morse. I have known Dr. Morse for 25 years plus and have sat along side of him at the New York State Fair giving him a hand in checking moisture content for the honey show. > He and his wife enjoyed the fair greatly and they both loved the honey show and exhibit. > He will be missed at this great event. > > Regards to all, > > Howie Cohen > Utica, NY 13501 > > Keeping bees on and off since 1974 > Article 25568 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: NEED HELP IN ENGLAND Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 07:02:31 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 9 Message-ID: <8ib4aq$fuc$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <394013D6.2466D053@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-30.acyclovir.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news8.svr.pol.co.uk 961090714 16332 62.136.75.158 (15 Jun 2000 17:38:34 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 15 Jun 2000 17:38:34 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25568 "James Kilty" wrote in message news:D9uB1PAiiAS5EwO2@kilty.demon.co.uk... If that doesn't work try bbka on 01203 > 690666 mailto:bees@bbka.demon.co.uk. Coventry code has changed: 024 7669 0666 Article 25569 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: comb honey question Message-ID: References: <8ib4pv$fkk@atlas.lcc.net> X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.30.1784 Lines: 7 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 16:03:35 EDT Organization: WebUseNet Corp http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 13:00:09 -0700 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25569 In article <8ib4pv$fkk@atlas.lcc.net>, damon@lxucom.net says... > My question: what do you do with comb honey? How do you use it? And, > what should I tell perspective customers as ignorant as myself? > > You chew it in your mouth. You can also drain out honey through cheesecloth presses and then chew the leftovers in your mouth. Article 25570 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmasters3!bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com> Subject: Re: Honey Lines: 53 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: <8Xa25.3453$Xx5.221154@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 20:23:32 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.203.76 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 961100612 12.72.203.76 (Thu, 15 Jun 2000 20:23:32 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 20:23:32 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25570 I take care of the bees and do all of the packaging and my kids hawk the honey. People tend to be more inclined to buy if 5 and 10 year-old girls are doing the selling. I can sit there all day and sell nothing. As soon as they show up it starts to move. They sell a lot at garage sales since these always bring a lot of traffic. From reading your posts for a while I gather that you are in a rural area of AL so you may not have a lot of traffic past your place. Other places they sell is at their aunts and uncles work places, usually an attractive sign in the employee lounge is all that is needed. Around Oct/Nov a lot of people start asking for it because they are starting to make gift boxes for the holidays (how's that for PC). Of course, we give some away as gifts and the local zoo always gets a 60# pail of the less than perfect stuff. As for pricing, I use roughly $2.75/lb + the cost of the packaging: 12 oz. squeeze bear $2.50 1 lb queenline jar $3.25 2 lb queenline jar $6.00 People who enjoy honey know the difference between what we sell and the stuff in the stores. Those that don't will usually ask why our honey does not have the clarity of the store stuff. Other that the "Is your honey organic?" question, the question of clarity is my favorite to answer. BTW, I always answer "No" to the organic question and there is always some interesting discussion that follows. One more thing that is worthy of consideration is liability. If you keep hives on your property as a hobby, most homeowner's policies will cover you for liability. Once you start to sell honey, the rules change and your homeowner's policy will likely not afford you any liability protection and a supplemental policy may bee needed. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there "Larry W" wrote in message news:39453036$1_2@news.vic.com... > Since many of us in this NG could be classified as hobbyist 1 - 6 hives, Im > wondering what you do with your honey? I got about 6 gals off one hive and > am fixing to get about 10 more gallons off my other 3. > > Larry > > > Article 25571 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Comb Sections Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 14 Jun 2000 02:54:06 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000613225406.04777.00000271@ng-bd1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25571 >you >still need to make sure there is a flow going on and if they don't fill the >properly they are hard to salvage My super are getting full in 4 week and I just though about trying the new Round Comb Sections while the flow going great. I've only got couple more month left in order for the flow shut off. Are those ring safe for Dish washer? Thanks. Tim Article 25572 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help Message-ID: References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.30.1784 Lines: 28 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 00:34:15 EDT Organization: WebUseNet Corp http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 21:30:32 -0700 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25572 Bummer, dude. You might want to try top bar hives, less labor intensive and real fine honeycomb. In article <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com>, larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net says... > Today I started extracting my newest hives, I pulled 13 super frames. I put > them 2 at a time in the extractor and started to spin it, no matter how slow > I spun it I blew out the frames. I went through about 6 of them before I > realized what the problem was. 2 months ago I bought 30 super frames and > wax. from a place in NC I wont mention the name but the initials are BM. I > originally ordered duraguilt but after consulting the NG I decided to change > it to standard was, so I reordered the proper frames but they sent me split > bottom bars. Not wanting to return them and reorder I built all my super > frames with split bottom bars. So when I spun the frames the wires lifted up > out of the bottom bars and broke the wax. I couldn't even get al the honey > out. > The question is what do I do to repair the damage? Can I somehow just > replace the bottom bars? Should I order some new bottom bars. Does anybody > know an easier fix? Do I have to replace the wax that's broken? Any Ideas > would be appreciated. I just put the frames back on the hive to get them > cleaned up. > > Thanks > > Larry > > > Article 25573 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!atlas.lcc.net!usenet From: "nomad" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 00:28:46 -0500 Organization: LCC Internet Lines: 22 Message-ID: <8i7597$c98@atlas.lcc.net> References: <8i6d25$hd6@atlas.lcc.net> <20000613200455.21948.00000564@ng-bd1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ncgd-pri1-a73.txucom.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25573 "Blue Taz37" wrote in message news:20000613200455.21948.00000564@ng-bd1.aol.com... > >But the other day I got one sting on my finger and my finger was > >swollen for three days. guess the easy part is over :(. Pass the Benedryl. > > Sorry to hear that Norman, I was told the stuff called Sting Aid which is a > good stuff but,The sad part is the manufactory is no longer in bussiness. > Tim I use sting kill. I guess it's similar. Wally-world and the Rx have two vials for c. $3; Dadant has 10 packs for about $4. But it only works if you apply it quickly, and I hate to use a whole vial on one sting....... The Wanderer (till I think of a new name) nomad@txucom.net Article 25574 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!atlas.lcc.net!usenet From: "nomad" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 00:36:17 -0500 Organization: LCC Internet Lines: 40 Message-ID: <8i75na$eci@atlas.lcc.net> References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ncgd-pri1-a73.txucom.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25574 "Larry W" wrote in message news:3946cd11_2@news.vic.com... > Today I started extracting my newest hives, I pulled 13 super frames. I put > them 2 at a time in the extractor and started to spin it, no matter how slow > I spun it I blew out the frames. I went through about 6 of them before I > realized what the problem was. 2 months ago I bought 30 super frames and > wax. from a place in NC I wont mention the name but the initials are BM. I > originally ordered duraguilt but after consulting the NG I decided to change > it to standard was, so I reordered the proper frames but they sent me split > bottom bars. Not wanting to return them and reorder I built all my super > frames with split bottom bars. So when I spun the frames the wires lifted up > out of the bottom bars and broke the wax. I couldn't even get al the honey > out. > The question is what do I do to repair the damage? Can I somehow just > replace the bottom bars? Should I order some new bottom bars. Does anybody > know an easier fix? Do I have to replace the wax that's broken? Any Ideas > would be appreciated. I just put the frames back on the hive to get them > cleaned up. > > Thanks > > Larry > > Could you put more nails thru the bottom board to form a tight "sandwich" of wood to hold the bottom of the wax in? Maybe use some of the small (3/4" ?) frame nails and drive them in from the side at an angle like you'd do with a wedge top bar? Hope This Helps. nomad Article 25575 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> <8i732h$58n$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 02:19:34 -0500 Lines: 52 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.82 Message-ID: <39473076_2@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 14 Jun 2000 03:12:54 -0400, 208.24.176.82 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!tor-nx1.netcom.ca!news.vic.com!208.24.176.82 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25575 I extracted the whole side before I reversed the frame. Started slow though. I only broke one frame out the rest were just bent in the middle, I was able to push them pretty straight and reinsert the wires in the grove. I will try to squeeze the bottom bar together and add nails as soon as the bees clean them up. The next 2 supers worth I will try to repair them before I extract and reverse them so as not to extract one whole side at a time. The honey was warm, it was 98 today. The honey I extracted last month was light and thin, this batch is dark and very heavy like molasses. However it tastes better, last batch had an after taste, tasted smoky and was TOO sweet. This batch is not so overpowering sweet and has a lighter flavor, just opposite from what you might think. Im told its probley mostly blackberry. thanks to all Larry "Pete" wrote in message news:8i732h$58n$1@nnrp1.deja.com... > > > "Larry W" wrote: > > > >The question is what do I do to repair the damage? Can I somehow > >just replace the bottom bars? Should I order some new bottom bars. > > Larry > ******************************************************* > > Howdy Larry -- > > Split bottom bars with wired wax foundation should not cause this > problem. If the frames of honey are warm (90 degrees or so) and > extracting is started SLOW, this should not happen. Extract only a small > amount of honey from the first side and reverse it. Do not try to get > all the honey out of the first side, or the weight of the honey on the > second (inside) side will break out the comb. Repeat reversing sides > several times if necessary. > > After the bees clean up the comb, you can evaluate whether is melt-up > time or if they can be straightened up enough to use again. > > Pete > So much to learn - So little time ! > ************************************************** > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Before you buy. Article 25576 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <3946c871_1@news.vic.com> <20000614003205.15441.00000819@ng-fy1.aol.com> Subject: Re: Honey Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 02:21:30 -0500 Lines: 21 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.82 Message-ID: <394730e9_2@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 14 Jun 2000 03:14:49 -0400, 208.24.176.82 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.82 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25576 I suppose your right. Larry "Dave Green" wrote in message news:20000614003205.15441.00000819@ng-fy1.aol.com... > From: "Larry W" larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net > > >If I try to sell it Ill try to keep the > >price just a little below the store price. > > Isn't yours better than the store's? > > > Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA > The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com > > Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) > http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25577 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!63.211.125.72!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: joeblow Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help Message-ID: References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> Organization: joeblow X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.20 Lines: 32 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 04:27:34 EDT Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 04:32:46 -0400 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25577 In article <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com>, larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net says... > Today I started extracting my newest hives, I pulled 13 super frames. I put > them 2 at a time in the extractor and started to spin it, no matter how slow > I spun it I blew out the frames. I went through about 6 of them before I > realized what the problem was. 2 months ago I bought 30 super frames and > wax. from a place in NC I wont mention the name but the initials are BM. I > originally ordered duraguilt but after consulting the NG I decided to change > it to standard was, so I reordered the proper frames but they sent me split > bottom bars. Not wanting to return them and reorder I built all my super > frames with split bottom bars. So when I spun the frames the wires lifted up > out of the bottom bars and broke the wax. I couldn't even get al the honey > out. > The question is what do I do to repair the damage? Can I somehow just > replace the bottom bars? Should I order some new bottom bars. Does anybody > know an easier fix? Do I have to replace the wax that's broken? Any Ideas > would be appreciated. I just put the frames back on the hive to get them > cleaned up. > > Thanks > > Larry > > > Hmmmm. Let me see....How about this. Get some hardware cloth and make up a sleeve that the frame can slip into. This should support the foundation from bowing out and you can spin like the dickens and it won't break the comb. Duragilt or Plasticell will be more rigid but this is something that you will have to decide as they are more expensive, but may be worth the extra $3.00 per super to upgrade foundation. Hope this helps. Buzz Article 25578 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Interpreting a sticky board test Lines: 14 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 14 Jun 2000 10:50:36 GMT References: <8i6lgp$ro3$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000614065036.09017.00000105@ng-cn1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25578 >I ordered some GelPaks about 3 weeks ago and was assured they be here in >time for the fall treatment..... >Demand must be pretty high. >I would also like to hear someone else's experience with the things. >Mike formic acid came very late, too late for spring treatment. decided to chance it, needed the money from the honey. lost 3 hives. stuff is on now, will let ya know in 2 wks. wish i'd stayed with apistan. Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC Article 25579 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honey Lines: 23 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 14 Jun 2000 11:00:37 GMT References: <20000614003205.15441.00000819@ng-fy1.aol.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000614070037.09017.00000106@ng-cn1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25579 >>If I try to sell it Ill try to keep the >>price just a little below the store price. > > Isn't yours better than the store's? > hog wash !!! all that store crap comes from argentina. " LOCAL " is worth its weight in gold these days. people are buying it for allergy reasons as well as taste. I sell all i bottle and have people calling ahead of time to reserve their's. $ 4.50 per pint $ 5.00 per pint with cone. Oh we give some away of course but but mainly in trade for other stuff. Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC Article 25580 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Lines: 10 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 14 Jun 2000 11:44:01 GMT References: <3946c7a5_2@news.vic.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000614074401.21446.00003268@ng-fg1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25580 > >That one is probley Tyvek. Its almost impossible to tear right? Very slick? >They make disposable suits out of it but it doesn't breath at all. Yep, That the one I was talk about. The only way I use them as early in the morn. or late afternoon. Also I took my time to work with bees so I can keep my body heat down. Fact, I've have couple small hive to work with for myself which its don't take long. But, My Father have 16 hive, Sometime I have to come in and help him and that when the suit start getting sticken. Tim Article 25581 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!intgwlon.nntp.telstra.net!nsw.nnrp.telstra.net!news.interact.net.au!not-for-mail From: "Barry Metz" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8i5cq3$47n$1@news.smartworld.net> Subject: Re: Origins of Resistant AFB Lines: 117 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:57:12 +1000 NNTP-Posting-Host: 210.215.13.195 X-Complaints-To: abuse@asiaonline.net X-Trace: news.interact.net.au 960987358 210.215.13.195 (Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:55:58 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:55:58 EST Organization: an Asia Online client - http://www.asiaonline.net/ X-Received-Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:55:58 EST (news.interact.net.au) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25581 Perhaps you should check Australian Research and what is generally accepted fact about the gratuous and I might say negligent uncontrolled use of any antibiotic in any part of the food chain Allen Dick wrote in message news:8i5cq3$47n$1@news.smartworld.net... > A number of prominent people in positions of authority -- and who should > know better -- have lately been repeating conjecture as fact. > > I'm talking about the slander against antibiotic extender patties. As far > as I know, there is not a shred of proof that they are a cause of > oxytetracycline (OTC) resistance in the bacillus that causes American > Foulbrood (AFB). > > The mechanisms behind resistance appearing are many and generally badly > misunderstood. Many of the ideas promulgated in the popular media are > simplistic at best and just plain wrong and dangerous at worse. > > The mechanism(s) by which an organism may develop resistance to a particular > substance depends on the organism and the environment. A practice that is a > cause of resistance developing in one case may be the prescription for > preventing resistance in another. > > In the past several years, a number of mechanisms that were simply > unbelievable in the past have become common knowledge. On is horizontal > gene transfer. Please check out > http://www.sciam.com/1998/0398issue/0398levy.html where you will find the > following statement: > > "Bacteria can acquire resistance genes through a few routes. Many inherit > the genes from their forerunners. Other times, genetic mutations, which > occur readily in bacteria, will spontaneously produce a new resistance trait > or will strengthen an existing one. And frequently, bacteria will gain a > defence against an antibiotic by taking up resistance genes from other > bacterial cells in the vicinity. Indeed, the exchange of genes is so > pervasive that the entire bacterial world can be thought of as one huge > multicellular organism in which the cells interchange their genes with > ease." > > http://www.sciam.com/1998/0398issue/0398levybox2.html is another interesting > reference, as is http://www.pilotonline.com/news/op0420ant.html > > I also quote below the text of a letter I wrote to a friend of mine who is > also a regulator: > > ---- begin quote --- > "I notice you repeated the suggestion that extender patties may cause > resistant AFB... > > I have phoned and written around to trace the origin of this rumour some > time back, and have not been able to find any credible source for it. In the > process, I have, however found a number of people I respect who think it > lacks any merit and just provides a handy scapegoat. > > I personally have a very high opinion of this method of control and it > distresses me to see my neighbours who were hit hard by AFB in 1998 and > saved entirely from AFB in 1999 -- in spite of showing positive for > resistant AFB due to buying equipment from (deleted) -- scraping off the > patties earlier this spring when they read the newsletter. I hope they > don't go through the 1998 experience again. > > From my 30 years experience with AFB and the various controls, I am worried > that we are discarding the best method -- by far -- I have ever seen (since > sulfa) for AFB control -- on the basis of mere rumours and speculation. > > Do you have access something that proves more than an anecdotal, > hypothetical, or circumstantial linkage? If so, I would certainly appreciate > being made aware of any evidence or scientific study that in any way proves > the allegations against a product developed by the USDA and duly tested and > licensed for sale and use in the USA. > > In view of the rigour of US testing and regulation, I would expect that if > there were any merit to the hypothesis, that Mann Lake would be forced to > take it off the market. They say that is not happening. > > As for more credible explanations for emergence of resistance , I submit > horizontal gene transfer -- possibly related to accidental side-effects of > genetic modification work -- as the original cause fro the sudden emergence, > and trade in honey and bee equipment as the mode of spread. The former is > hard to prove, but I suspect will eventually be the accepted explanation. > The latter is obvious and ongoing: the spread in the case of equipment is > not hard to follow. As for spread due to international sale and housewives > discarding honey into open landfills and bees licking out imported honey > drums, that is again hard to trace. > > How many *unique* cases of resistance evolving can we document? And, how > many cases are just the spread of the same outbreak?" > > --- end quote ---- > > Lets either prove this allegation -- or drive a stake through its heart once > and for all. > > allen > -- > A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ > Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant > feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring > splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... > Thousands served... > > Article 25582 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!pitt.edu!newsflash.concordia.ca!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newspeer.monmouth.com!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: kamtout@together.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: comb honey question Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 20:24:59 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 30 Message-ID: <8ibe28$dbu$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <8ib4pv$fkk@atlas.lcc.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.144.236.186 X-Article-Creation-Date: Thu Jun 15 20:24:59 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.72 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x70.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 199.144.236.186 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDkamtout Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25582 Eat it. I like a spoon full of comb smashed on my toast. Others like it right off the spoon. Get some comb honey plastic boxes and cut it up and put it in there and sell it. I've seen it at 4-6 $ a pound. Feel that part out. I've seen it recommended that after cutting the sections you should gently place them on an exluder or screen for the night to let the honey in the cut cells drain. This keeps the honey from flowing around on the inside of the package. The wax is ok to chew for a while then it becomes kinda hard and grainy. Tell people it's ok to eat or spit out after or 'remove the wax' more politically correct than spitting I guess. Mike > > My question: what do you do with comb honey? How do you use it? And, > what should I tell perspective customers as ignorant as myself? > > -- > to : > > My email mirrors my name: > damon :: nomad > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25583 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!24.92.226.72!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39495522.FB850A89@cornell.edu> From: JGinNY Reply-To: jwg6@cornell.edu X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Comb Sections References: <20000613174835.03648.00002805@ng-ba1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 54 Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 22:08:48 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.24.11.5 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 961106928 24.24.11.5 (Thu, 15 Jun 2000 18:08:48 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 18:08:48 EDT Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25583 Blue Taz37 wrote: > Has anyone has experience with new round comb sections? Is it true they saying > it was easy and simple job to collect the honey? Thanksare Yeah, they are easy to deal with upon harvesting, and are usu. well-finished by the bees (compared to the old-style square or rectangular basswood sections). In general, though, you still have to crowd the colony considerably, to get them working well in the section supers, and to have most of the sections well filled and finished. Added to this, there is a lot of wasted space in a round-section super! It will only hold a measley 16 lbs. of honey when full. Cut-comb (produced in regular shallow or medium frames) is much easier and cheaper to produce than sections, of either type, and it crowds the bees a lot less. No expensive rings or covers to keep replacing. The volume of the crop ends up being larger, swarming is less of a problem, and any poorly finished combs can just be run through the extractor. [If you've no extractor, then they can simply be cut out, mashed up, and allowed to drain over a screen for a couple days. Gravity will separate practically all the honey from the wax, which can then be melted down. The drained honey is as good as any extracted.] As for cut-comb packaging, it used to be that the only widely available, "special" cut-comb container was a transparent, hard plastic tray, and it was quite an expensive item. Nowadays there are different, much less pricey ones -- clear, thin plastic clamshell boxes -- and they are being carried by many major bee supply houses. (They are smaller versions of the clamshell boxes sometimes used for selling salads.) The main drawback to cut-comb is the cutting and packaging required, but in practice, the time spent on round sections (trimming, putting on covers, labeling) is not a whole lot less than that required for preparing cut comb. (...i-m-e) A transparent cut-comb container shows off the edges of the comb, in cross-section, and i.m.o. this is far more eye-catching or appealing to the customer than an opaque plastic ring. So do consider cut-comb as a possible alternative. It does have certain advantages over the sections, production-wise and cost-wise. Besides, it uses the same type of supers/frames that could be used for extracted honey, so there is some added flexibility there as well. (Nothing against the round-section mfr. Only my opinion, and suggestion, based on experience with different types of comb honey equipment and methods. -- and btw, I have produced thousands of the round sections, myself.) jwg Article 25584 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!dialup-lbb-0683.nts-online.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 17:32:42 -0500 Lines: 14 Message-ID: References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup-lbb-0683.nts-online.net (216.167.135.47) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 961108362 4734004 216.167.135.47 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25584 > Can someone point out what is their Secret? I should think it's the bees, no secret there. If you tried to work the bees around here like you've described, you'd be in the hospital. About the suit. I use the Sheriff Beekeeper, made of that fine white gossamer nylon material. Works very well on the principle that the bees can't get a "foothold" before sinking in their stingers. For our Vegan friends of concern, this type of suit saves countless bee lives because one doesn't come away from a session in the yard black with bee stingers as is the case with cotton and poly cotton bee suits. C.K. Article 25585 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.wirehub.nl!bullseye.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: NEED HELP IN ENGLAND Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 22:43:52 +0100 Message-ID: References: <394013D6.2466D053@uidaho.edu> <8ib4aq$fuc$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 961108720 nnrp-08:26027 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 13 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25585 In article <8ib4aq$fuc$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk>, Peter Edwards writes > >"James Kilty" wrote in message >news:D9uB1PAiiAS5EwO2@kilty.demon.co.uk... >If that doesn't work try bbka on 01203 >> 690666 mailto:bees@bbka.demon.co.uk. > >Coventry code has changed: 024 7669 0666 Thanks Peter. I hadn't caught up with it and used my old data-base and will alter it now before I get problems or pass them on to others. -- James Kilty Article 25586 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com> <8Xa25.3453$Xx5.221154@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Honey Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 16:14:23 -0500 Lines: 79 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.62 Message-ID: <394945b3_1@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 15 Jun 2000 17:08:03 -0400, 208.24.176.62 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.62 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25586 real rural Al. about 6 houses on my street which is about 1 mile long. no through traffic. I will take it up a friends house who is on the main road. My only kid is about 1000 miles from here with his family, so Im on my own of course with the wife. I have given what I could away and the nearest zoo is about 75 - 80 miles. I think Ill try one top bar for comb honey since I don't need a lot more. Right now I have 4 hives. I started with one package 2 years ago. thanks for the Ideas. Larry "George Styer" wrote in message news:8Xa25.3453$Xx5.221154@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... > I take care of the bees and do all of the packaging and my kids hawk the > honey. People tend to be more inclined to buy if 5 and 10 year-old girls are > doing the selling. I can sit there all day and sell nothing. As soon as they > show up it starts to move. They sell a lot at garage sales since these > always bring a lot of traffic. From reading your posts for a while I gather > that you are in a rural area of AL so you may not have a lot of traffic past > your place. Other places they sell is at their aunts and uncles work places, > usually an attractive sign in the employee lounge is all that is needed. > Around Oct/Nov a lot of people start asking for it because they are starting > to make gift boxes for the holidays (how's that for PC). Of course, we give > some away as gifts and the local zoo always gets a 60# pail of the less than > perfect stuff. > > As for pricing, I use roughly $2.75/lb + the cost of the packaging: > > 12 oz. squeeze bear $2.50 > 1 lb queenline jar $3.25 > 2 lb queenline jar $6.00 > > People who enjoy honey know the difference between what we sell and the > stuff in the stores. Those that don't will usually ask why our honey does > not have the clarity of the store stuff. Other that the "Is your honey > organic?" question, the question of clarity is my favorite to answer. BTW, I > always answer "No" to the organic question and there is always some > interesting discussion that follows. > > One more thing that is worthy of consideration is liability. If you keep > hives on your property as a hobby, most homeowner's policies will cover you > for liability. Once you start to sell honey, the rules change and your > homeowner's policy will likely not afford you any liability protection and a > supplemental policy may bee needed. > > -- > Geo > Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley > "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" > gstyLer@worldnet.att.net > To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there > > > "Larry W" wrote in message > news:39453036$1_2@news.vic.com... > > Since many of us in this NG could be classified as hobbyist 1 - 6 hives, > Im > > wondering what you do with your honey? I got about 6 gals off one hive and > > am fixing to get about 10 more gallons off my other 3. > > > > Larry > > > > > > > > Article 25587 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!dialup-lbb-0683.nts-online.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Hive paint Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 16:38:59 -0500 Lines: 28 Message-ID: References: <390af765@news.gj.net> <8ek7bm$99d$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <8ekuq2$sui$3@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk> Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup-lbb-0683.nts-online.net (216.167.135.47) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 961105140 4783412 216.167.135.47 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25587 This is a reiteration of a tip from last year, but after keeping bees twenty something years I would just like to say that the finest and toughest and easiest to apply, and non smelling and non toxic and easy clean up with soap and water, matt white "paint" I've ever used. If you live in an area where it gets hot, and want your hives to stay "white" a long time, this is the stuff for you. Innovative Formulations 520-628-1553 1800 S. 6th. Ave. Tucson AZ. 85713 owner: Ian Ornsten This man sells a "roofing system" using a 2 component liquid and spun polyester material. His components come in 5 gallon buckets numbered 1 and 2..don't bother with the number 1..just buy a bucket of number 2, that's the white one. It can be rolled or brushed on. It goes on anything, even galvanized metal. If you need to patch large holes or strengthen a weak or old hive box, then buy a roll of the spun polyester and use it with the white liquid. However it isn't necessary if you're just painting. Another thing, it's expensive, but no more so than a premium quality paint in the 5 gallon bucket. Take heart, it goes a long way and last a long time, (5 years plus) C.K. Article 25588 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!dialup-lbb-0683.nts-online.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: medical honey Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 16:48:22 -0500 Lines: 19 Message-ID: References: Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup-lbb-0683.nts-online.net (216.167.135.47) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 961105702 4783412 216.167.135.47 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25588 >I have researched this matter of Botulism in Honey I agree about the dangers of corn syrup and other refined sugar products which are harmful and addictive. I think it's more important not to be feeding infants sugar(s) at all. The reason infants get "infant botulism" (which doesn't compare to the toxic by product of "Botulism bacteria" which kills quickly if consumed in a "low acid" food that was not properly sterilized in the "canning" process. i.e beware the bloated can.) is that they don't have enough digestive acid in their stomachs to kill the bacteria. The spores are not the problem. And besides, we all know it's the mother who should be eating the honey and feeding the infant from her reasonable breasts. Y.T. Article 25589 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed1.earthlink.net!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.Arizona.EDU!not-for-mail From: John Edwards Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:50:39 -0700 Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Lines: 19 Message-ID: <39495DBE.66970DD7@tucson.ars.ag.gov> References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: feral-bee.tucson.ars.ag.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en,pdf Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25589 Charlie Kroeger wrote: > If you tried to work the bees > around here like you've described, you'd be in the hospital. > > C.K. Let me guess - are you in Arizona or Texas ?? - John "Feral Bee Tracker and AHB Identifier" - sometimes mobile sting target Carl Hayden Bee Research Center Tucson, Arizona 85719 32.27495 N 110.9402 W http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/home/edwards/edwards.html Article 25590 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!newshub2.rdc1.sfba.home.com!news.home.com!news1.rdc1.mb.home.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Greg" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Should I have Fed ? Lines: 10 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 23:29:40 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.66.74.251 X-Complaints-To: abuse@home.net X-Trace: news1.rdc1.mb.home.com 961111780 24.66.74.251 (Thu, 15 Jun 2000 16:29:40 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 16:29:40 PDT Organization: @Home Network Canada Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25590 At the start of the season I bought 2 nucs from a well known and recommended beekeeper. My brood chamber had 4 frames of bees and 6 frames to be drawn out. The beekeeper I bought them from said not to feed. Now 2 months later my brood chamber is completely drawn out and I have added a super, full of wax foundation. Would feeding sugar syrup have made this process go faster and should I feed next year? Thanks for all your help. Article 25591 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu!hermes.visi.com!news-out.visi.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeeds.nerdc.ufl.edu!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Should I have Fed ? Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 16:54:14 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 19 Message-ID: <39496CA6.FC5D8AB1@uidaho.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: faraday.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 961113751 22489 129.101.81.112 (16 Jun 2000 00:02:31 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 16 Jun 2000 00:02:31 GMT To: Greg X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25591 I did a similar thing- purched two nucs- but i got mine just 2.5 weeks ago. I was told TO feed and have been. This was to stimulate brood production and get them strong so they can last the winter. They have been eating about a quarts of really thick sugar water per day! This weekend i will open her up and (hopefully- if my frames ever arrive!) slap on another super. -Matthew Greg wrote: > At the start of the season I bought 2 nucs from a well known and recommended > beekeeper. My brood chamber had 4 frames of bees and 6 frames to be drawn > out. The beekeeper I bought them from said not to feed. Now 2 months later > my brood chamber is completely drawn out and I have added a super, full of > wax foundation. Would feeding sugar syrup have made this process go faster > and should I feed next year? > > Thanks for all your help. Article 25592 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!enews.sgi.com!newspeer.cwnet.com!newsfeed.concentric.net!newsfeed.ozemail.com.au!ozemail.com.au!not-for-mail From: "David Moncrieff" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <20000613174835.03648.00002805@ng-ba1.aol.com> Subject: Re: Comb Sections Lines: 33 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: <5Sn25.16959$N4.643965@ozemail.com.au> NNTP-Posting-Host: slmlb2p39.ozemail.com.au X-Trace: ozemail.com.au 961153537 210.84.129.103 (Fri, 16 Jun 2000 21:05:37 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 21:05:37 EST Organization: OzEmail Ltd, Australia Distribution: world Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 20:57:36 +1000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25592 Blue Taz37 wrote in message <20000613174835.03648.00002805@ng-ba1.aol.com>... >Has anyone has experience with new round comb sections? Is it true they saying >it was easy and simple job to collect the honey? Thanks. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well I would say that it is easy. The few notes you find on the net are sufficient to get you going. You do not need the commercial super - you can convert a super with a few pieces of scrap wood to take the Ross frames. In Aust we normally use eight frame Langstroth boxes and you can insert packing timber in the super box in a way that gives nice bee clearance ways along the side and end of the super. The rounds will fill in a slow flow - but they also get discoloured. I have put rounds and traditional sections on adjacent hives and found that the rounds are worked and filled far quicker. In Aust the rounds components are obscenely expensive - and I have also found that most people have no idea of how to go about " eating " honeycomb. I have had friends come up with ingenious way of getting the honey out of the combs so they can have traditional liquid honey. So now I give them bottled honey. A limited, but treasured, number of folks become keen fans for more rounds. Collecting honey in rounds is very easy compared to the effort and mess for most backyards to extract honey. And an extra benefit is that you can take of just a few rounds at time and enjoy the variation in the honey flavour as the season progresses. One more thing - do not forget to put the rings in the frames -silly mistake, messy outcome Cheers DocBee, Melbourne, Australia . Article 25593 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: herbcampb@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Allergies Associated With Beekeeping Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 13:02:11 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 100 Message-ID: <8id8g9$k02$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <8hef1a$6jd$2@lure.pipex.net><8hgcnv$1ut$1@news.smartworld.net> <8ho2ar$rcg$1@mohawk.hwcn.org> <13025400.888b270a@usw-ex0104-033.remarq.com> <8i6e1l$hpa$1@lure.pipex.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 205.188.197.54 X-Article-Creation-Date: Fri Jun 16 13:02:11 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; AOL 5.0; Windows 98; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x59.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 205.188.197.54 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDherbcampb Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25593 In article <8i6e1l$hpa$1@lure.pipex.net>, "Pamela Buckle" wrote: > Nothing false about the bleeding cracks all over the palms of my hands when > I get propolis on them. Sounds as if you might just have a slight financial interest in selling royal jelly, Ron. > Methinks the merchant doth protest too much! > Martin. And methinks, Martin, that this is one of them unwarranted, undeserved, and foolish accusations we hear about. It is grossly unfair for you to say such a thing about Ron for simply providing us with valuable information. There is no doubt that humans in general have a built-in bias against bees, and therefore anything associated with bees (except honey, which we sell). I'm familiar with the cases Ron described and agree that royal jelly was falsely accused. I have no financial interest at all in royal jelly unless you count buying it from time to time. It's easier to buy the capsules than try to figure out how to get it from our own bee hives. I find it hard to believe that propolis could cause bleeding cracks all over the palms of anyone's hands. Have you ruled out all other possible causes to conclude that it was indeed propolis? Sincerely, Herb > Ron Law wrote in message > news:13025400.888b270a@usw-ex0104-033.remarq.com... > > A great deal has been said about allergies to bee products. Much > > of it has been driven by medical practitioners/scientists trying > > to establish a research profile, or to discredit complementary > > healthcare products in general. > > > > We have been able to prove that much of what has been written > > about royal jelly, for example, including in peer reviewed > > medical literature, is false, falsified and even fabricated with > > false conclusions being drawn. Two well publicised deaths in > > Australia have never been established as being caused by royal > > jelly scientifically. Two coroners were fed false, and > > retrospectively interpreted data. In a third case, medical > > records prove that the surfie did not die from an adverse > > reaction to royal jelly and official records show that officials > > knew that. These official records were withheld from > > circulation, and two official inquiries. > > > > > > There is a myth that people are allergic to bees. Again, this is > > simply that, a myth. If you are allergic to bee stings, for > > example, you will not be automatically allergic to royal jelly, > > bee pollen, propolis or even the bee itself. Its a bit like, > > people allergic to milk are not allergic to beef. There is no > > relationship in science between allergies to different bee > > products. There is no scientific evidence that asthmatics are > > more allergic to any bee product and they are not more prone to > > allergies from bee stings. It is simply a myth. > > > > For a scientific report commissioned by the New Zealand > > Government, go to Nick Wallingford's marvellous beekeeping site > > at http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/scirev.htm and read two reports -- > > one by a NZ Parliamentary Select Committee and the other by a > > 5-person scientific review panel. > > > > You'll be able to read risk analyses undertaken for bee pollen, > > propolis and royal jelly. They conclude that there was no > > scientific evidence of significant allergies to ingestion of bee > > pollen and propolis, that cautions statements relating to > > asthmatics only should be on royal jelly products, and that > > there is no evidence that any of the three deaths, alledged to > > have been caused by royal jelly, were, although there was an > > association with use in one. > > > > Given the billions (literally) of doses of all three products > > used around the world every year there is a remarkable absence > > of adverse reaction reports; the scientific review panel > > concluded that propolis and bee pollen were extremely safe and > > that the risk of adverse reactions to royal jelly was confined > > to asthmatics and that even then the risk was very low. > > > > As for the false, falsified and fabricated data, that's another > > story that is likely to result in scientific misconduct > > proceedings. > > > > RL > > > > > > * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet's Discussion Network > * > > The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free! > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25594 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: From: "Larry W" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 12:08:19 -0500 Lines: 49 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6700 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.24.176.75 Message-ID: <3947ba7a_1@news.vic.com> X-Trace: 14 Jun 2000 13:01:46 -0400, 208.24.176.75 Organization: Newsville.Com (http://www.newsville.com) Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.vic.com!208.24.176.75 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25594 Peter, what is the web page for the Top Bar information? I was there last year but lost the link. Thanks Larry "Peter Amschel" wrote in message news:MPG.13b0aa4696827ce39896ed@news.pe.net... > Bummer, dude. You might want to try top bar hives, less labor intensive > and real fine honeycomb. > > > In article <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com>, larrylwillREMOVE@fcbl.net says... > > Today I started extracting my newest hives, I pulled 13 super frames. I put > > them 2 at a time in the extractor and started to spin it, no matter how slow > > I spun it I blew out the frames. I went through about 6 of them before I > > realized what the problem was. 2 months ago I bought 30 super frames and > > wax. from a place in NC I wont mention the name but the initials are BM. I > > originally ordered duraguilt but after consulting the NG I decided to change > > it to standard was, so I reordered the proper frames but they sent me split > > bottom bars. Not wanting to return them and reorder I built all my super > > frames with split bottom bars. So when I spun the frames the wires lifted up > > out of the bottom bars and broke the wax. I couldn't even get al the honey > > out. > > The question is what do I do to repair the damage? Can I somehow just > > replace the bottom bars? Should I order some new bottom bars. Does anybody > > know an easier fix? Do I have to replace the wax that's broken? Any Ideas > > would be appreciated. I just put the frames back on the hive to get them > > cleaned up. > > > > Thanks > > > > Larry > > > > > > Article 25595 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!uunet!ffx.uu.net!xyzzy!nntp From: "Billy Y. Smart II" Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help X-Nntp-Posting-Host: rs496769.ks.boeing.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Message-ID: <3947BB1C.7A28EBF0@nospam.boeing.com> Sender: nntp@news.boeing.com (Boeing NNTP News Access) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Organization: Tooling Numeric Control Programming - Wichita Division X-Accept-Language: en References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> <8i732h$58n$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <39473076_2@news.vic.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:04:29 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.61 [en] (X11; U; AIX 4.3) Lines: 34 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25595 Larry W wrote: > I extracted the whole side before I reversed the frame. Started slow > though. I only broke one frame out the rest were just bent in the middle, I > was able to push them pretty straight and reinsert the wires in the grove. > I will try to squeeze the bottom bar together and add nails as soon as the > bees clean them up. The next 2 supers worth I will try to repair them before > I extract and reverse them so as not to extract one whole side at a time. > > The honey was warm, it was 98 today. The honey I extracted last month was > light and thin, this batch is dark and very heavy like molasses. However it > tastes better, last batch had an after taste, tasted smoky and was TOO > sweet. This batch is not so overpowering sweet and has a lighter flavor, > just opposite from what you might think. Im told its probley mostly > blackberry. > > thanks to all > > Larry > > > Before you buy. It's too late for your current problem but in the future you might consider wiring your super frames (horizontal). That should provide enough support to handle the extraction process. -- Billy Y. Smart II /* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the */ /* Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental. */ /* Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply */ Article 25596 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.vt.edu!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!netnews.com!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Two eggs in one cell Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 07:20:18 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 16 Message-ID: <8idov7$qte$2@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <394594B1.118DB49@borg.com> <20000613083344.07053.00003640@ng-cc1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-178.lithium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news6.svr.pol.co.uk 961177383 27566 62.136.2.178 (16 Jun 2000 17:43:03 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 16 Jun 2000 17:43:03 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25596 "Dave Green" wrote in message news:20000613083344.07053.00003640@ng-cc1.aol.com... > >Do any of you know why this would happen? > Often a young queen will do this for the first week or so, and it will then > clear up. Check again in a week. -------------------------------------------------------------- Can also happen with a very prolific young queen with insufficient cells in which to lay, e.g. in a small nuc. Article 25597 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!xmission!nnrp.xmission!not-for-mail From: D.F.S. Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Moving an established swarm?-- followup, new problems? Date: 16 Jun 2000 16:29:33 GMT Organization: XMission http://www.xmission.com/ Lines: 63 Message-ID: <8idkld$kat$1@news.xmission.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: xmission.xmission.com X-Trace: news.xmission.com 961172973 20829 198.60.22.20 (16 Jun 2000 16:29:33 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@xmission.com NNTP-Posting-Date: 16 Jun 2000 16:29:33 GMT X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 unoff BETA 970327; sun4m SunOS 5.7] Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25597 Ok, I moved the colony last week. They were in a hollow brick column with 12" of open space each direction. I bought a box and 10 frames. I put foundation in 4 frames and wire on the other 6. I put the existing comb in the wire laced frames, I used rubber bands and wire to hold them on. I could not fit all the comb, so I concentrated on the brood. There was no hatched brood yet, they appeared to move from the center out in age with the oldest in the center. Some of the bees in the center had antenna sticking out. After a few days the hive was still full of bees, and many of the bees had broken out of the cells leaving empty cells in the center of the old comb. Some of the "Grubs" had been selaed up, but for the most part they appeared to be missing. The hive does not appear to have a queen. I scooped up all the bees I could, but must have missed her. I can get a new queen locally and easily. I have no other hive to combine them with. They appear to be being robbed blind. I see other bees leaving with "Chunks" I don't know if it is comb or brood, one time I was pretty sure it was brood. will other hives rob brood as well as honey? Do they raise them? or eat them? Now what? It appears I got about 1/3 to 1/2 of the colony established in the new hive. I did not get a closure for the opening on the new hive. After a few days I blocked the opening down to about 1/2 - 3/4" I saved the honey comb I was not able to fit in the frames, and have been feeding it back to them every few days. Now What, I'm at a loss. How do I stop the robbing? How do I save this colony? Marc Article 25598 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!199.79.239.47!news-peer.ivn.net!IVI-USENET!ivi-usenet From: "Spike Psarris" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: 10-frame spacing Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 00:27:36 -0600 Organization: Internet Ventures Usenet Services Lines: 19 Message-ID: <8i9ssm$1kb0$1@hardcore.ivn.net> Reply-To: "Spike Psarris" NNTP-Posting-Host: dro-6-28.frontier.net X-Trace: hardcore.ivn.net 961050326 53600 207.174.108.28 (15 Jun 2000 06:25:26 GMT) X-Complaints-To: news-admin@ivn.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 15 Jun 2000 06:25:26 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25598 I had been under the impression that when running 10 frames (or even 9), they should be evenly spaced. Then there were comments here recently about having the frames all pushed together in order to get the proper spacing between them. Which is correct? I seem to get bridge comb if my spacing is even a little imperfect (with 10 frames), which is often. If all frames are pushed together, does this create a bigger problem with crescent comb in the gap on the end? Anybody want to weigh in on this? -- replace "junkfree" with "spike" to reply Article 25599 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!upp1.onvoy!msc1.onvoy!onvoy.com!hardy.tc.umn.edu!news.nero.net!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Question is! Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 14:42:56 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 10 Message-ID: <394A9F60.982F9CD6@uidaho.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 961192286 20029 129.101.81.41 (16 Jun 2000 21:51:26 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 16 Jun 2000 21:51:26 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25599 YES. Feeding will stimulate brood production and growth. You will want to feed for about 3 to 5 weeks. This will help them to get established. Cheers Matthew Greg wrote: > My question was should I feed when there is nothing but foundation in the > brood chamber, this is way before any super is added. Article 25600 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!headwall.stanford.edu!unlnews.unl.edu!newsfeed.ksu.edu!nntp.ksu.edu!news.okstate.edu!not-for-mail From: Gary Johns Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Dumb mistake, need help Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 09:13:22 -0500 Organization: Oklahoma State University Lines: 11 Message-ID: <39479302.E354FD3@okstate.edu> References: <3946cd11_2@news.vic.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: x8b4e76e3.dhcp.okstate.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25600 Larry, If your married, ask your wife for all the old pantyhose she has. Slip a frame into the hose and tie off at the top. If your economical you can probably get four frames per pantyhose. This should give you all the support you need. Otherwise go to the store and start buying the cheapest pairs you can find. In fact I find that pantyhose makes a much better filter material than cheesecloth. Gary Article 25601 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!pitt.edu!not-for-mail From: Tony Capon Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: my "split' split Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 10:02:24 -0400 Organization: University of Pittsburgh at Johnstown Lines: 73 Message-ID: <3948E1F0.3BA2A990@pitt.edu> References: <3940055E.E2162692@soils.umn.edu> <39403E0A.4CC1FF97@together.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: toftrees.upj.pitt.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------72B1AC550857827B8BFA9C2B" X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en To: mpalmer@together.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25601 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------72B1AC550857827B8BFA9C2B Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Or you can put the split on the site of the old hive. Shake the bees off of a couple of more frames into the split. If you have enough frames of honey to support the two colonies, split them up. That way, you may not have to feed either one. Move the remaining frames with the old queen and most of the brood and old bees to a nearby location. Put entrance reducers on both. Most of the field bees from the old colony will fly back to the old site. The split, with relatively little brood, will have a good population of older field bees, and the original colony, which has more brood, will also have more young bees. I found this works well unless the original colony is mean and aggressive to begin with. Michael Palmer wrote: > You placed 3 frames of brood in the nuc. What about the bees? Young bees > that won't fly home, or old ones that do? Next time, place your nuc above an > excluder over night, and let the colony populate it with young bees. Next > day remove it to your new stand, and give it a new queen. > > David Kelley wrote: > > > To the knowledgeable ones out there (includes about anyone but me, 2nd > > year beekeeper), > > Here's a perplexing situation that flies against most of what I've read. > > I made a divide about 13 days ago from a strong hive. Put in 3 frames > > full of brood, the rest of the frames drawn comb, a feeder pail on top, > > and a new queen. Came back in 3 days; the queen hadn't yet been > > released, so I released her directly with no problems. Went back last > > night (10 days since queen release) and the hive was empty except for a > > mouse that had taken up residence in the bottom. All the brood were dead > > in their cells and all the feed gone from the pail. I assume that bees > > from my other hives robbed out the feed from the pail once the bees and > > queen went wherever they decided to go. I though that bees wouldn't > > abandon brood this way. What happened? Why would bees and a new queen > > abandon brood? Didn't happen to my other split. > > Any help or insight appreciated. > > DK > > -- > > David Kelley (dkelley@soils.umn.edu) > > Agricultural Research Service, USDA > > Dept. of Soil, Water, and Climate > > 439 Borlaug Hall; University of Minnesota > > 1991 Upper Buford Circle, St. Paul, MN 55108 > > phone: 612-625-1909 fax: 651-649-5058 --------------72B1AC550857827B8BFA9C2B Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="tcapon.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Tony Capon Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="tcapon.vcf" begin:vcard n:Capon;Tony tel;fax:(814) 269-7255 tel;work:(814) 269-2989 x-mozilla-html:FALSE org:University of Pittsburgh at Johnstown;Sociology adr:;;104 Krebs Hall;Johnstown;PA;15904; version:2.1 email;internet:tcapon@pitt.edu title:Associate Professor x-mozilla-cpt:;22480 fn:Capon, Tony end:vcard --------------72B1AC550857827B8BFA9C2B-- Article 25602 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!attmtf!att542!att541!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Comb Sections Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 15:37:07 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 16 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@1cust152.tnt3.calgary.ab.da.uu.net Message-ID: <8ie65g$6kc$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <20000613174835.03648.00002805@ng-ba1.aol.com> <5Sn25.16959$N4.643965@ozemail.com.au> NNTP-Posting-Host: 1cust152.tnt3.calgary.ab.da.uu.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25602 > Has anyone has experience with new round comb sections? Is it true they > saying it was easy and simple job to collect the honey? Yes, it is extremely easy, and much tidier than extracting or cutting comb. Visit the Ross Rounds web site at http://www.RossRounds.com/ for pictures and information about producing and marketing Ross Rounds. allen -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Article 25603 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Justin Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What a disaster! (long) Reply-To: raptor@wwa.com Message-ID: References: <393E9274.446C0BE2@formida.com> <393EC2FF.4498EC1@midwest.net> <8i6e1n$hpa$2@lure.pipex.net> X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.7/32.534 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 33 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 20:31:38 EDT Organization: WebUseNet Corp http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 19:32:26 -0500 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25603 "Dusty Bleher" went on and on about: >Any of you other readers have any good "disaster" stories to share? Besides >being entertaining, there's usually a lot of good lessons to be had... And >learning is after all what we're here for, isn't it? > >Best regards all, >Dusty Bleher >San Jose, Ca. I really enjoyed your story (at your expense, I guess). A shame you couldn't save the hive--they must have been very hard workers to produce that much honey. I kept one--and later, two--hives when I was in grade school. I was at the point in my beekeeping where the occasional sting no longer produced a reaction. On one occasion I was showing off my talents and the combs of honey to a friend. For the first (and only) time, I dropped a super frame squarely on my foot. My usually docile Midnight bees attacked my ankle/foot with a vengeance I'd never seen (but to be fair, was justified)--10 to 12 stings in a small area. I discovered I wasn't as immune to bee venom as I thought! I couldn't get a shoe on that foot for several days. I'd like to keep bees again, but I don't think the condo association would take kindly to a hive on my balcony :( Justin -- Justin === raptor@wwa.com Chicago http://www.wwa.com/~laser26/ Article 25604 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: comb honey question Lines: 20 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 17 Jun 2000 01:42:47 GMT References: <8ibe28$dbu$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000616214247.10761.00003430@ng-cu1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25604 >Tell people it's ok to eat or spit out after or 'remove the wax' more >politically correct than spitting I guess. It's also okay to eat, really nice melted into a hot biscuit... it's natural fiber, and they keep telling us we should eat more. There is no honey more flavorful than comb honey. Once extracted, it immediately begins to lose some of the more delicate flavor element. One of the joys of beekeeping is to lift your veil to accept a mouthful of fresh burr comb on your hive tool. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25605 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Moving an established swarm?-- followup, new problems? Lines: 21 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 17 Jun 2000 01:52:57 GMT References: <8idkld$kat$1@news.xmission.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000616215257.10761.00003437@ng-cu1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25605 >They appear to be being robbed blind. > >I see other bees leaving with "Chunks" I don't know if it is comb or >brood, one time I was pretty sure it was brood. That's actually a good sign. What you see is the morticians at work, carrying out dead brood. They won't be doing this unless they have a certain amount of morale. There's probably some queen cells in there, and they are trying to get it all back together. But if you disturb them too much, you may destroy their morale, so go easy on them. They've already had an enormous amount of stress. Keep some feed on, because no doubt their population is much reduced, and they don't have as many bees to forage. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25606 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: comb honey question Lines: 13 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 17 Jun 2000 01:45:25 GMT References: <8ib4pv$fkk@atlas.lcc.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000616214525.10761.00003433@ng-cu1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25606 From: "nomad" damon@lxucom.net > My question: what do you do with comb honey? How do you use it? Okay, you just made me hungry! So I went to the kitchen and got a slab of comb honey on a bagel. Ummmmmmmmmm! Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25607 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!cyclone-west.rr.com!news.rr.com|news-west.rr.com!newsfeed2.earthlink.net!newsfeed.earthlink.net!newsfeed1.earthlink.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!newsfeed.ozemail.com.au!ozemail.com.au!not-for-mail From: "David Moncrieff" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Medical use of honey - good article on Aussie TV, Lines: 22 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: slmlb28p33.ozemail.com.au X-Trace: ozemail.com.au 961242344 210.84.135.225 (Sat, 17 Jun 2000 21:45:44 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 21:45:44 EST Organization: OzEmail Ltd, Australia Distribution: world Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 21:45:13 +1000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25607 There was a program of interest to beekeepers this week on Australian television on the medical uses of honey. It was shown on Quantum, an Australian prime time TV science Show. Cheers DocBee Summary and pointer to transcript follows. http://www.abc.net.au/quantum/stories/s137755.htm#transcript Honey Cure Thursday, 15 June 2000 One of the ancient world's favourite ointments, honey, is at last moving into the modern medicine cabinet with the discovery that it is both powerfully antibacterial and hastens healing. And the honey from a native tree on the NSW coast could be the most potent of them all. As an added bonus, what you don't use to dress a wound can always be spread on toast! Article 25608 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Homemade Extract Message-ID: References: <20000617074040.24852.00002114@ng-fj1.aol.com> X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.30.1784 Lines: 10 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 11:30:41 EDT Organization: WebUseNet Corp http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 08:27:12 -0700 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25608 I think that's a smart idea, Tim; rush over to the United States Office of Patents and Trademarks. In article <20000617074040.24852.00002114@ng-fj1.aol.com>, bluetaz37@aol.com says... > Has anyone use old washmachine top double roller were its drain water from wet > clothes? I was think bout turn it face up and install crank handle, Then feed > honey with comb thru bottom, Collect empty comb from top. Will that works? > Tim > Article 25609 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!netnews.com!howland.erols.net!news3.bellglobal.com.MISMATCH!nf1.mgmt.sympatico.ca!news1.bellglobal.com!news20.bellglobal.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <394BDBDE.1A4F3461@sympatico.ca> From: honey.road@sympatico.ca Organization: My Beekeeping Homepape: http://www3.sympatico.ca/honey.road X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Beekeeping Supplies Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 41 Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 17:16:48 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.172.183.154 X-Trace: news20.bellglobal.com 961262208 206.172.183.154 (Sat, 17 Jun 2000 13:16:48 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 13:16:48 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25609 I posted a message advertising my website last month, and recieved a mixed reaction from you in the newsgroup. From boycott my site, to thank you for letting me know. The messages were pretty much 50/50 for and against. To those of you who are offended, i appolgise ahead of time, to those of you intersested, welcome, and read on. I don not intend flooding the newsgroup with message after message, or spam as it has been labled. I wouldn't post this message unless I belieived it was worthwhile and worth it. If you interste in saving a few dollars, then read on. Allen Banks For all of your beekeeping supplies, Visit www.honeyroad.com. With intergrated shipping from Canada Post, know what it will cost you before you buy, instead of being shocked after you receive you order! This Months Specials Include- 3 frame Hand extractor - $349.99 Can/$231.75 US- Shipping Included Power 3 frame extractor now available, email for price. 5 gallon bucket with 1 1/2" gate - $24.99 Can/$16.55 US - shipping included Nylon Filter Cloth - $6.49Can/$4.29US per yard - shipping included Complete Beekeeping Beginners Kit - $169.99Can/$133.29 US Includes - Ventilated Mesh helmet, Coveral suit with square foling veil, 4X10 SS Smoker, Frame Grips, Bee Brush, 10" Hive tool or Maxant Frame Lifter pr. goat skin or ventilated leather gloves, queen marking pen (Note-add 10$Can/$6.90 US for maxant tool) Shipping Included Go now to http://www.honeyroad.com Article 25610 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.idt.net!attmtf!att542!att541!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honey Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 07:36:59 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 38 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@1cust105.tnt3.calgary.ab.da.uu.net Message-ID: <8ialkv$qpb$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <39453036$1_2@news.vic.com> <3946AAF9.FDBD42A3@honeyroad.com> <3946c871_1@news.vic.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 1cust105.tnt3.calgary.ab.da.uu.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25610 > If I try to sell it Ill try to keep the > price just a little below the store price. It sure would be nice to recover > some of the cost and maybe make enough to buy a better extractor. No need to sell cheap, if you do a decent job of packaging it. In fact, you may discourage business if you do so. I gather you only have a little bit, so you don't have to dump it, and honey keeps so you aren't in a hurry. Take the time to settle it out well and package it in clean, preferably new Mason jars or food grade pails. Use your computer to print out a simple label or buy some from the bee supply house. stick them on with a glue stick. Put a sign on your fence. Advertise using a small simple ad in your local paper classifieds. Avoid mentioning price much -- at least, for goodness sake, don't lead with price -- talk about quality. Ask at least the store price for the honey, and see what happens. Only a few people these days will question the price, and to them say, that something done lovingly by hand in small amounts naturally costs more than mass-produced product and tell them they can go to the store if price matters that much. Be polite and patient and friendly, not ignorant about it. You'll get your price. As for the pails, if they are larger than the store has, the price per pound can be lowered a bit, since you have less work packing and selling it. This is reasonable and is not price cutting, just good business. There should be no need to sell below store price until you have huge bulk quantities and need to ship it to packers. allen --- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Article 25611 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: rhfjr81@aol.com (Richard Flanagan) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Bee Sting Therapy Lines: 6 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 16 Jun 2000 01:22:52 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000615212252.29976.00002900@ng-fu1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25611 I need to do some research on bee sting therapy. Can anyone reccommend some good web sites and books to read? Richard Flanagan in Charlotte I have no greater joy than to hear that my children walk in truth 3 John 4 Article 25612 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!dialup-lbb-1121.nts-online.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 12:53:14 -0500 Lines: 25 Message-ID: References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <39495DBE.66970DD7@tucson.ars.ag.gov> Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup-lbb-1121.nts-online.net (216.167.136.230) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 961264399 5089514 216.167.136.230 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25612 John Edwards comments: >Let me guess - are you in Arizona or Texas ?? That's right. I recently got a swarm from Canyon, Texas that made things hot right out of the swarm cluster. I personally don't mind these types of bees, they certainly keep their hives safe from skunks, mice, and wasp. They keep cows from rubbing against their hives or tipping them over. I will say you must be prepared to examine them. I don't bother with the smoke unless I'm taking off supers. With the Sheriff "no stick" bee suit, after the initial vociferous show of force, they tend to give off a bit and get on with whatever they were doing before. I believe this is because the attack is not amplified by hundreds of bee stingers implanted in one's suit. They're not African bees, in the sense they will come for you if you're just standing around the bee yard, but their initial reaction to being opened would make you think they were. I kept Carniolan bees in Britain (nr. Monmouth) in the 1970's and one really had to be ham fisted to be stung by them. They could be opened and examined with easy motion without any protection at all. But that was then and this is now, a different world. C.K. Article 25613 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.enteract.com!feed.newsfeeds.com!newsfeeds.com!news-in.nibble.net!cyclone-sf.pbi.net!206.13.28.33!news.pacbell.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Karyn Plank" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Burr Comb Color/Queen Excluders Lines: 12 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 10:34:05 -0700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 63.194.217.119 X-Complaints-To: abuse@pacbell.net X-Trace: news.pacbell.net 961262994 63.194.217.119 (Sat, 17 Jun 2000 10:29:54 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 10:29:54 PDT Organization: SBC Internet Services Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25613 First I confess -- I'm a rookie. I just scraped some burr comb out of my hive and it's a light yellow color. Previous burr comb has been a fairly pure white color. What accounts for the color difference? Also, is there any difference between using a wooden or metal queen excluder? Is one considered better for the bees than the other? Thanks for cluing me in. Karyn Article 25614 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!dialup-lbb-1121.nts-online.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 13:13:32 -0500 Lines: 20 Message-ID: References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <8if823$gcg@atlas.lcc.net> Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup-lbb-1121.nts-online.net (216.167.136.230) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 961265613 4960451 216.167.136.230 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25614 >And after 30min my suit was soaked with sweat and I wasn't even in much >direct sun. It's so humid here I could keep fish in my hives. That's true..lots of sweat...I usually work bees in that nylon suit in the sun on hot days, and it's hellish. I'm just used to it I guess. I do have to take frequent liquid breaks to keep the brain working. Watered down orange juice is good and take a few kelp tablets throughout the day to maintain your electrolytes. (avoid those coloured drinks that claim they do that) Salt tablets are the traditional thing around here, but I don't recommend them. If I'm going to be out there a long time I've been known to use one of those strap on water carriers used by biking tourist. I never notice being uncomfortable much because of all the interesting things going on, that's why you need to be aware of dehydration and subsequent heat stroke followed by death. So embarrassing to forget to keep yourself hydrated and collapse in the bee yard. No one is going to come to your aid until after dark, and by then, you'll probably be dead. C.K. Article 25615 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!atlas.lcc.net!usenet From: "nomad" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: comb honey question Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 12:45:04 -0500 Organization: LCC Internet Lines: 31 Message-ID: <8ib4pv$fkk@atlas.lcc.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: ncgd-pri4-a80.txucom.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25615 Okay this is my first year as a bee keeper and I have six hives. I have set the whole thing up for cut comb honey, because i didn't want the mess and expense and complication of working with an extractor, decapping knife etc. (in hindsight maybe I should have just gone for it). As I said this is my first year I baiscly started in march with hives (from nucs 3-5 frames) and a couple of packages. My bees have been busily filling comb in in two brood chambers and "their super" and I am about to add "my supers." I am still giving some them some sugar water to help them along with their comb drawing. I feel am getting a bit of a late start so I doubt I'll get a lot of honey this year. But I as long as my bees make it to next year I think I will have had a good success and the bees will have a good start for the spring flow. Okay, assuming I get any comb honey, I plan to sell the comb worth selling. But, I don't know much about comb honey and never noticed it at the grocers until I dediced to start making it. (wally world usally has one sorry jar of "chunk" honey). My question: what do you do with comb honey? How do you use it? And, what should I tell perspective customers as ignorant as myself? -- to : My email mirrors my name: damon :: nomad Article 25616 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Message-ID: <3949F79F.76DBB603@borg.com> Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 05:47:11 -0400 From: Howard Cohen X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Two eggs in one cell References: <394594B1.118DB49@borg.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit NNTP-Posting-Host: host-380.borgdialin.thebiz.net X-NNTP-Posting-Host: host-380.borgdialin.thebiz.net Lines: 32 Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!pullfeed!nntp2.borg.com!host-380.borgdialin.thebiz.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25616 Here is an update to this question that I posted several days ago. It appears that supercedure cells are in the works. So everything is pointing to a failing queen. I will keep you updated as needed. Thanks for all of the replies. Howie Cohen Utica, NY > > > Do any of you know why this would happen? > > I have never seen this before. Actually, I never looked so closely to > notice it until recently. > > I also noticed on one cell that an egg hatched while the other will > probably hatch tomorrow as they were both laid at the same time. > > > > Also on another note, I just read the message posted on 5/12 about the > passing of Dr. Roger Morse. I have known Dr. Morse for 25 years plus and > have sat along side of him at the New York State Fair giving him a hand in > checking moisture content for the honey show. > > He and his wife enjoyed the fair greatly and they both loved the honey > show and exhibit. > > He will be missed at this great event. > > > > Regards to all, > > > > Howie Cohen > > Utica, NY 13501 > > > > Keeping bees on and off since 1974 > > Article 25617 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu!hermes.visi.com!news-out.visi.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: herbcampb@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bee Sting Therapy Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:58:43 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 20 Message-ID: <8id18u$f4b$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <20000615212252.29976.00002900@ng-fu1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 205.188.197.23 X-Article-Creation-Date: Fri Jun 16 10:58:43 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; AOL 5.0; Windows 98; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x71.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 205.188.197.23 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDherbcampb Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25617 In article <20000615212252.29976.00002900@ng-fu1.aol.com>, rhfjr81@aol.com (Richard Flanagan) wrote: > I need to do some research on bee sting therapy. Can anyone reccommend some > good web sites and books to read? > > Richard Flanagan in Charlotte > I have no greater joy than to hear that my children walk in truth 3 John 4 > Richard, here is a good place to start: http://www.sci.fi/~apither/popup_simple.html Herb Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25618 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!attmtf!att542!ip.att.net!news.smartworld.net!not-for-mail From: "Allen Dick" Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: bees cause spots on the window Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 13:53:51 -0600 Organization: Smart Lines: 29 Sender: allendick@freewwweb.com@*@1cust189.tnt3.calgary.ab.da.uu.net Message-ID: <8igkfq$quq$1@news.smartworld.net> References: <8ifel5$ra9$3@news0.skynet.be> NNTP-Posting-Host: 1cust189.tnt3.calgary.ab.da.uu.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu alt.hobbies.beekeeping:215 sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25618 > I live in a rather green area with beekeepers in close vicinity. > The backside of the house is mostly big windows and, during summer, I > have thousands of spots on the windows... > My neighbours do not have the problem but their houses are already > surrounded by trees and brushes. Although it is possible, It hardly seems likely to me. We have up to 1000 hives in our yard in spring, but can't say we ever saw spots on windows and our house stands in the open without trees near most windows. The occasional time in spring, I have seen a small amount of spotting on my car. Clothes lines are sometimes reportedly spotted, but I wonder how the bees could speck your windows without actually being on them, since I assume your windows are vertical and likely sheltered a little by the frame -- and you do not report seeing bees near the windows, I should think they would be seen if they were responsible.. I don't know how close you are to the bees either. At any rate, bees do defecate,and after a long confinement due to weather, the feces is soft or liquid. allen -- A Beekeeper's Diary: http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ Package installation & performance experiments, winter loss, fondant feeding, Pierco vs. Permadent vs. dark comb, unwrapping bees, spring splitting tricks, AFB, varroa, protein patties, daily mumblings and more... Article 25619 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!dialup-lbb-1121.nts-online.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Thymol Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 16:27:17 -0500 Lines: 28 Message-ID: <63rnkscc4ot2ar4iti14tlam8br911gi05@4ax.com> References: <20000517215644.13563.00000895@ng-fb1.news.cs.com> <39234e94.26899738@news1.radix.net> <8g1s96$5co$2@newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk> Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup-lbb-1121.nts-online.net (216.167.136.230) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 961277239 5150662 216.167.136.230 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25619 Yes but, the Thymol in Britain smells good, a bit like wintergreen and is reasonably priced, but the Thymol in America smells like "Listerine" or "Dittol"...and cost a lot of money. Usually bought in crystal form from reagent houses for big bucks. Then you have to take it to someone that can make you a 2% (by volume) tincture with ethanol, another very expensive ingredient. Go here: http://infoseek.go.com/Titles?lk=ip-noframes&nh=25&svx=nohit&qt=chemical+reagents+catalog to start searching for reagent houses that will sell you quantities and different qualities of thymol. I've used thymol for years as a sugar water preservative and it is expensive, but goes a long way. Little did I know it was making the mites uncomfortable too. Also If you're interested, I make a killer tooth powder where I use a few grains of thymol with the salt calcium carbonate, and baking soda. It still makes your mouth taste like Listerine and is probably carcinogenic to rats. C.K. Article 25620 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!news.clinux.cz.js.cn!not-for-mail From: Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Euro2000 football divination service and more..... Date: 17 Jun 2000 17:09:25 GMT Organization: The news server of Changzhou TeleCom Lines: 13 Message-ID: <8igbc5$22dg$3611@news.cz.js.cn> NNTP-Posting-Host: ts-3-3-30.nn.gx.cn X-Trace: news.cz.js.cn 961261765 68016 202.103.224.30 (17 Jun 2000 17:09:25 GMT) X-Complaints-To: usenet@news.cz.js.cn NNTP-Posting-Date: 17 Jun 2000 17:09:25 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25620 China five thousand year culture,be born I ching,the book of change,it be turn record china physics,mathematics,relativity and more universe algebraical basic knowledge,and provide in line with standard divination method. let your intuition talking,chinese i-ching divination anything. About your future: I provided service: divination Fortune/Stock Exchange/Contract Signing/Partnership/Official/Sport Race/ Lawsuit / Weather/ Calamity and more..... http://iching.126.com Regards, lei Article 25621 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!dialup-lbb-1023.nts-online.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Thymol Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:00:08 -0500 Lines: 39 Message-ID: References: <20000517215644.13563.00000895@ng-fb1.news.cs.com> Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup-lbb-1023.nts-online.net (216.167.136.132) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 961282808 4955795 216.167.136.132 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25621 >Would anyone like to explain alittle more about >thymol..........how would my hives better from using it? No one seems to have answered this. Thymol is a preservative, a powerful anti-bacterial agent. It also fumes the hive with what to Americans smells like a famous mouthwash. I always used it as a sugar water preservative by mixing: 3 pounds sugar adding water to make one gallon U.S. and added 5cc of 2% Thymol sol. (in ethanol) for each gallon of this syrup. While the syrup is in the hive the Thymol, not only retards fermentation but is quietly fuming the hive chamber and apparently also making it tough on the mites. (it supposedly worked well against Tracheal mites too) This is old news, but in 1996 (from my notes) I read that a Nick Calderone who was or is at USDA-ARS Beltsville, MD. (USA) was using a mixture of 50/50 Thymol and Eucalyptus although he didn't say what concentrations or how it was administered, but he claimed a 98% reduction of Varroa mites. These results claim higher mite reductions than Formic acid or the two E.P.A. approved chemicals. (Fluvalinate or Coumaphos A.K.A Apistan and CheckMite) I assume he was sitting the liquid mixture in the hive and fuming it in much the same way we're expected to use Formic acid . I still have a FAX number for Nick, if you want to try it: (301) 504-8736 You know in America, and perhaps all over, just because someone has found the cure for cancer, or made that carburetor that gets 100 miles to the gallon, doesn't mean you'll ever get to use it. All sorts of forces are lurking ready to protect their interest. Nick may have discovered the answer to all our Varroa problems long before Formic acid, Fluvalinate, or Coumaphos but just because he's published his findings doesn't mean anyone reads them, or believes them, or even cares. C.K. Article 25622 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Thymol Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 11:06:21 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 55 Message-ID: <394cac1e.1579423@news1.radix.net> References: <20000517215644.13563.00000895@ng-fb1.news.cs.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p3.a4.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25622 On Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:00:08 -0500, Charlie Kroeger wrote: >>Would anyone like to explain alittle more about >>thymol..........how would my hives better from using it? > >No one seems to have answered this. Thymol is a preservative, a powerful >anti-bacterial agent. It also fumes the hive with what to Americans smells >like a famous mouthwash. I always used it as a sugar water preservative by >mixing: > >3 pounds sugar adding water to make one gallon U.S. and added 5cc of 2% Thymol >sol. (in ethanol) for each gallon of this syrup. > >While the syrup is in the hive the Thymol, not only retards fermentation but >is quietly fuming the hive chamber and apparently also making it tough on the >mites. (it supposedly worked well against Tracheal mites too) > >This is old news, but in 1996 (from my notes) I read that a Nick Calderone who >was or is at USDA-ARS Beltsville, MD. (USA) was using a mixture of 50/50 >Thymol and Eucalyptus although he didn't say what concentrations or how it was >administered, but he claimed a 98% reduction of Varroa mites. These results >claim higher mite reductions than Formic acid or the two E.P.A. approved >chemicals. (Fluvalinate or Coumaphos A.K.A Apistan and CheckMite) > >I assume he was sitting the liquid mixture in the hive and fuming it in much >the same way we're expected to use Formic acid . > >I still have a FAX number for Nick, if you want to try it: > >(301) 504-8736 > >You know in America, and perhaps all over, just because someone has found the >cure for cancer, or made that carburetor that gets 100 miles to the gallon, >doesn't mean you'll ever get to use it. All sorts of forces are lurking ready >to protect their interest. Nick may have discovered the answer to all our >Varroa problems long before Formic acid, Fluvalinate, or Coumaphos but just >because he's published his findings doesn't mean anyone reads them, or >believes them, or even cares. > >C.K. > Nick's formula is: 75% Thymol 16% Eucaliptus oil 4.5% Campher 4.5% Menthol I use it once every two years on 1/2 sponges. I treat for varroa two times a year, mid summer and late fall. It works for me and I have yet to detect any resistance to fluvalinate by using this formula every forth treatment. Greg the beekeep Article 25623 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Screen saver Bees? Lines: 6 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 18 Jun 2000 12:20:47 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000618082047.20439.00002683@ng-ba1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25623 Hi Guys, Does any one of you have Screen saver bees that showing a moving brood on a comb section? I just though it would be real cute. Anybody whom walk by my computer will think a real bee hive stand on my desk with clear glass watch brood working. Thanks! Tim Article 25624 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!newsfeed.germany.net!news.vas-net.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Should I have Fed ? Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 06:59:24 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 33 Message-ID: <8idov1$qte$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <39496CA6.FC5D8AB1@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-178.lithium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news6.svr.pol.co.uk 961177377 27566 62.136.2.178 (16 Jun 2000 17:42:57 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 16 Jun 2000 17:42:57 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25624 Why would you want to fill supers with sugar syrup? "Matthew Pollard" wrote in message news:39496CA6.FC5D8AB1@uidaho.edu... > I did a similar thing- purched two nucs- but i got mine just 2.5 weeks ago. I > was told TO feed and have been. This was to stimulate brood production and get > them strong so they can last the winter. They have been eating about a quarts > of really thick sugar water per day! This weekend i will open her up and > (hopefully- if my frames ever arrive!) slap on another super. > > -Matthew > > Greg wrote: > > > At the start of the season I bought 2 nucs from a well known and recommended > > beekeeper. My brood chamber had 4 frames of bees and 6 frames to be drawn > > out. The beekeeper I bought them from said not to feed. Now 2 months later > > my brood chamber is completely drawn out and I have added a super, full of > > wax foundation. Would feeding sugar syrup have made this process go faster > > and should I feed next year? > > > > Thanks for all your help. > Article 25625 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: swarming Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 07:22:05 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 16 Message-ID: <8idovb$qte$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-178.lithium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news6.svr.pol.co.uk 961177387 27566 62.136.2.178 (16 Jun 2000 17:43:07 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 16 Jun 2000 17:43:07 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25625 Undrawn foundation can have the effect of crowding the bees on to the drawn comb, especially if there is no flow. "Greg" wrote in message news:zDe15.353$hb7.896@news1.rdc1.mb.home.com... > I'm a new beekeeper. Recently both my hives swarmed. They weren't crowded > because they still had foundation to draw out. There were queen cells in > both but I had taken off the cells the week before. Could it be because > they're in the shade from about 11 am till dark?? Any help would br great. > > > > > Article 25626 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-peer.gip.net!news.gsl.net!gip.net!newshub2.rdc1.sfba.home.com!news.home.com!news1.rdc1.mb.home.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Greg" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Question is! Lines: 4 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 19:03:39 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.66.74.251 X-Complaints-To: abuse@home.net X-Trace: news1.rdc1.mb.home.com 961182219 24.66.74.251 (Fri, 16 Jun 2000 12:03:39 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 12:03:39 PDT Organization: @Home Network Canada Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25626 My question was should I feed when there is nothing but foundation in the brood chamber, this is way before any super is added. Article 25627 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!atlas.lcc.net!usenet From: "nomad" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 02:05:10 -0500 Organization: LCC Internet Lines: 24 Message-ID: <8if823$gcg@atlas.lcc.net> References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ncgd-pri1-a91.txucom.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25627 "Charlie Kroeger" wrote in message news:e3miks0nckpmc5hncjqcppisrlg1p0qqp0@4ax.com> For our Vegan friends of concern, this type of suit saves countless bee lives > because one doesn't come away from a session in the yard black with bee > stingers as is the case with cotton and poly cotton bee suits. > > C.K. I just came away with some "second hand" stings. The bees stung the suit and later the suit stung me. And after 30min my suit was soaked with sweat and I wasn't even in much direct sun. It's so humid here I could keep fish in my hives. -- to : My email mirrors my name: damon :: nomad Article 25628 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!EU.net!npeer.kpnqwest.net!NEWS.TELE.DK!meownews.inet.tele.dk!news.tele.dk!newsfeedZ.netscum.dQ!netscum.int!skynet.be!poster!not-for-mail From: "Roger Deylgat" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: bees are causing spots on my windows. Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 11:00:45 +0200 Organization: Belgacom Skynet SA/NV Lines: 22 Message-ID: <8ifel2$ra9$2@news0.skynet.be> NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup224.mons.skynet.be X-Trace: news0.skynet.be 961232354 27977 195.238.6.224 (17 Jun 2000 08:59:14 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@skynet.be NNTP-Posting-Date: 17 Jun 2000 08:59:14 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25628 I live in a rather green area with beekeepers in close vicinity. The backside of the house is mostly big windows and, during summer, I have thousands of spots on the windows. Colour varies from light yellow to white opaque (let's say spit ...). Size is about 0.3 cms wide .. I have to confess that I never saw a bee deposit these spots but I m quite convinced that this is the cause. My neighbours do not have the problem but their houses are already surrounded by trees and brushes. Mine is newly built and standing strongly visible in the direction of the beekeeper, with big windows inviting for a rest after a long flight .... am I correct ?. Does anybody know this problem ? I do not oppose beekeeping at all .. when I live here it is because of love of nature, but it would be great if I could "tame" this or at least know there's other guys out there, suffering regards. roger deylgat belgium. Article 25629 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.ksu.edu!nntp.ksu.edu!news.okstate.edu!not-for-mail From: Gary Johns Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: 10-frame spacing Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 08:59:03 -0500 Organization: Oklahoma State University Lines: 16 Message-ID: <3948E127.DD81BC6C@okstate.edu> References: <8i9ssm$1kb0$1@hardcore.ivn.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: x8b4e76e3.dhcp.okstate.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25629 Spike Psarris wrote: > I had been under the impression that when running 10 frames (or even 9), > they should be evenly spaced. Then there were comments here recently about > having the frames all pushed together in order to get the proper spacing > between them. I believe it's going to depend on whether your talking about brood supers or honey supers. The comments on the list were directed towards brood frames being pushed together. However, if your running 9 or even 8 frame honey supers your going to want them evenly spaced. Gary Article 25630 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: bees are causing spots on my windows. Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 17 Jun 2000 10:53:21 GMT References: <8ifel2$ra9$2@news0.skynet.be> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000617065321.24852.00002111@ng-fj1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25630 >I have to confess that I never saw a bee deposit these spots but I m quite > I've seen a deer saw another deer by the glass door and came right crash thru. glass. Old doe though it was another doe. She didn't know it was herself. So, I guess this happen to the bees samething. Reloaction your hive and see what happen. Tim Article 25631 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newshub.northeast.verio.net!verio!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Homemade Extract Lines: 4 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 17 Jun 2000 11:40:40 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000617074040.24852.00002114@ng-fj1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25631 Has anyone use old washmachine top double roller were its drain water from wet clothes? I was think bout turn it face up and install crank handle, Then feed honey with comb thru bottom, Collect empty comb from top. Will that works? Tim Article 25632 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!titan.oit.unc.edu!usenet From: adamf@metalab.unc.edu (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Beekeeping Supplies Date: 18 Jun 2000 14:31:20 -0400 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 13 Message-ID: <8ij4ho$fij@titan.oit.unc.edu> References: <394BDBDE.1A4F3461@sympatico.ca> Reply-To: adamf@metalab.unc.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: titan.metalab.unc.edu X-Trace: news2.isis.unc.edu 961353051 14947 152.2.210.14 (18 Jun 2000 18:30:51 GMT) X-Complaints-To: usenet@news2.isis.unc.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 18 Jun 2000 18:30:51 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25632 In article <394BDBDE.1A4F3461@sympatico.ca>, wrote: >I posted a message advertising my website last month, and recieved a >mixed reaction from you in the newsgroup. From boycott my site, to >thank you for letting me know. The messages were pretty much 50/50 for >and against. Why not just post the url and have all the advertising text there on your website? Adam -- ___________________________________________________________________________ Adam Finkelstein Internet Apiculture and Beekeeping Archive adamf@metalab.unc.edu http://metalab.unc.edu/bees Article 25633 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!alnews.ncsc.mil!den-news-01.qwest.net!qwest!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeedZ.netscum.dQ!netscum.int!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!1cust172.tnt39.dfw5.da.uu.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Buckfast & Brother Adam Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 23:33:40 -0500 Lines: 8 Message-ID: References: <39414493.2EA0D672@btinternet.com> Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: 1cust172.tnt39.dfw5.da.uu.net (63.17.169.172) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 961302817 5083252 63.17.169.172 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25633 >I wrote to Buckfast and asked why there is no exhibition or display area >dedicated to Brother Adams work I was informed he was a monk first and a >Beekeeper second. You should probably go to Germany to find the proper kudos for Br. Adam, as he was a German first, a monk second, and a beekeeper third. C.K. Article 25634 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "David Eyre" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Burr Comb Color/Queen Excluders Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 22:50:29 -0400 Organization: The Bee Works Lines: 32 Message-ID: References: X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25634 I often see a difference in the wax produced at various times of the year, early on it's fairly light but later in the season it goes bright yellow, then when the golden rod comes into bloom it gets a darker shade. I would suggest that it's a by product of the flowers in bloom at the time. Provided bee space is respected then there is no difference between wooden or metal queen excluders. I personally find that bee space is a major problem which accounts for the various amounts of burr comb that Langstroth hives produce. -- David Eyre The Bee Works admin@beeworks.com www.beeworks.com 705 326 7171 Karyn Plank wrote in message news:mAO25.133$LA4.220448@news.pacbell.net... > First I confess -- I'm a rookie. I just scraped some burr comb out of my > hive and it's a light yellow color. Previous burr comb has been a fairly > pure white color. What accounts for the color difference? > > Also, is there any difference between using a wooden or metal queen > excluder? Is one considered better for the bees than the other? > > Thanks for cluing me in. > > Karyn > > Article 25635 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!cyclone.swbell.net!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "David Eyre" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Thymol Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 22:53:31 -0400 Organization: The Bee Works Lines: 75 Message-ID: References: <20000517215644.13563.00000895@ng-fb1.news.cs.com> <394cac1e.1579423@news1.radix.net> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25635 If anyone needs it we have the UK variety. wrote in message news:394cac1e.1579423@news1.radix.net... > On Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:00:08 -0500, Charlie Kroeger > wrote: > > >>Would anyone like to explain alittle more about > >>thymol..........how would my hives better from using it? > > > >No one seems to have answered this. Thymol is a preservative, a powerful > >anti-bacterial agent. It also fumes the hive with what to Americans smells > >like a famous mouthwash. I always used it as a sugar water preservative by > >mixing: > > > >3 pounds sugar adding water to make one gallon U.S. and added 5cc of 2% Thymol > >sol. (in ethanol) for each gallon of this syrup. > > > >While the syrup is in the hive the Thymol, not only retards fermentation but > >is quietly fuming the hive chamber and apparently also making it tough on the > >mites. (it supposedly worked well against Tracheal mites too) > > > >This is old news, but in 1996 (from my notes) I read that a Nick Calderone who > >was or is at USDA-ARS Beltsville, MD. (USA) was using a mixture of 50/50 > >Thymol and Eucalyptus although he didn't say what concentrations or how it was > >administered, but he claimed a 98% reduction of Varroa mites. These results > >claim higher mite reductions than Formic acid or the two E.P.A. approved > >chemicals. (Fluvalinate or Coumaphos A.K.A Apistan and CheckMite) > > > >I assume he was sitting the liquid mixture in the hive and fuming it in much > >the same way we're expected to use Formic acid . > > > >I still have a FAX number for Nick, if you want to try it: > > > >(301) 504-8736 > > > >You know in America, and perhaps all over, just because someone has found the > >cure for cancer, or made that carburetor that gets 100 miles to the gallon, > >doesn't mean you'll ever get to use it. All sorts of forces are lurking ready > >to protect their interest. Nick may have discovered the answer to all our > >Varroa problems long before Formic acid, Fluvalinate, or Coumaphos but just > >because he's published his findings doesn't mean anyone reads them, or > >believes them, or even cares. > > > >C.K. > > > Nick's formula is: > 75% Thymol > 16% Eucaliptus oil > 4.5% Campher > 4.5% Menthol > > I use it once every two years on 1/2 sponges. I treat for varroa two > times a year, mid summer and late fall. It works for me and I have > yet to detect any resistance to fluvalinate by using this formula > every forth treatment. > > Greg the beekeep > Article 25636 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: bees are causing spots on my windows. Lines: 2 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 19 Jun 2000 03:45:08 GMT References: <8ifel2$ra9$2@news0.skynet.be> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000618234508.14161.00004514@ng-cl1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25636 I have an observation hive in my upstairs--all my nearby windows (both floors) get occasional "spots". I wash them off (occasionally). Article 25637 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newshub.northeast.verio.net!verio!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What a disaster! (long) Lines: 12 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 18 Jun 2000 11:47:42 GMT References: <8i6e1n$hpa$2@lure.pipex.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000618074742.20439.00002681@ng-ba1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25637 > Do you >know that little 'Zip, zip' noise that bees make as they crawl all over you >in the dark looking for holes in your clothing? > >Martin. Ouch! Get this,,, When I was a kid, Father haul one hive in the back of seat of a car ( I was in the passage seat) and drove home late at night, The rage came loose which has been plug in hive door. You're talk about scary. We quicken roll glass down and stuck our head out of the window. I got stung behine my ear twice and I don't know about him. Stupies . . . . Tim Article 25638 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Light, Heat and Location Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 19 Jun 2000 17:02:21 GMT References: <8i8r9r$g45$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000619130221.17724.00000154@ng-fj1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25638 >Granted in Feb when they have to crap >they'll fly around a bit in the 20's but the heated air from the >tarpaper can be easily 70 degrees or greater even then. Question, When you place Tarpaper in order to help keep hive warm during cold weather and what would happen if the bee fly out from the hive and end up hit a cold snap in the air? Tim Article 25639 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!europa.netcrusader.net!152.163.239.129!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honey Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 19 Jun 2000 17:15:35 GMT References: <8ialkv$qpb$1@news.smartworld.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000619131535.17724.00000155@ng-fj1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25639 >There should be no need to sell below store price >allen Allen right! If they want cheap, Have them go to store buying sugar fee honey But, here is the real stuff and gotten cost you little more. The old saying is you get what you're paying. This is might be cruel, I let them taste a simple from popstickle stick while I held on my jar. :-) Article 25640 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!firehose.mindspring.com!pool-207-205-179-55.phnx.grid.net!user From: HiStretch@GoStretch.com (Charles "Stretch" Ledford) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re_Queening Question Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 13:01:11 -0600 Organization: STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY Lines: 31 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: cf.cd.b3.37 X-Server-Date: 19 Jun 2000 19:05:53 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25640 Greetings, all... I put a swarm into my hive a few weeks ago, and have been thinking about re-queening ever since. The queen that came with the swarm just didn't seem to be laying as well as I would have liked (meaning as well as the queen that came with a package of bees I put in last year), and the bees are mean as hell, which has made me want to get a more gentle strain going with a new queen. A couple of days ago, I opened the hive and found two queen cells being constructed. This convinced me to order a new queen and put her in. My question is thus: In putting in the new queen, is there a proper order for a) Euthanizing the old queen, b) Cutting out the queen cells, c) Putting the new queen cage in the hive? I would imagine there is not, so I'm planning to just just cut the queen cells, kill the old queen, and put the new queen cage in all with one opening of the hive. Yes, no, mebbe? Thanks to all the experts! -- Charles "Stretch" Ledford STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY "North America and the Entire World" http://www.GoStretch.com Article 25641 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.qis.net!dca1-hub1.news.digex.net!dca1-feed4.news.digex.net!intermedia!news1.bms.com!not-for-mail From: Jesse Hunter Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Feeding honey Back to Bees Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 15:56:04 -0400 Organization: Bristol-Myers Squibb Company Lines: 11 Message-ID: <394E7AD4.FE46CB03@bms.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: newsreader-hpw1.net.bms.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en]C-BMY (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en Cache-Post-Path: newsreader-hpw1.net.bms.com!unknown@hunter.syr.pgr.bms.com X-Cache: nntpcache 2.3.3 (see http://www.nntpcache.org/) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25641 I have a five gallon bucket of dirty honey that I cleaned from my basement floor following a spill. I want to feed this back to my bees, What is the best way to do this and not have the bees from other colonies fighting each other for it. Can I just smear it on the top of the frames? if so how much at a time (I don't want the bees to drown in it. Thanks for the info. --without the birds and bees, none of us would bee here-- Article 25642 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newsfeed.wirehub.nl!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.cs.com!not-for-mail From: texasdrone@cs.combees (Robert Williamson) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Beekeeping Supplies Lines: 22 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.cs.com X-Admin: news@cs.com Date: 19 Jun 2000 22:34:52 GMT References: <394BDBDE.1A4F3461@sympatico.ca> Organization: CompuServe (http://www.compuserve.com/) Message-ID: <20000619183452.04083.00000717@ng-fu1.news.cs.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25642 >I posted a message advertising my website last month, and recieved a >mixed reaction from you in the newsgroup. From boycott my site, to >thank you for letting me know. The messages were pretty much 50/50 for >and against. >To those of you who are offended, i appolgise ahead of time, to those of >you intersested, welcome, and read on. I don not intend flooding the >newsgroup with message after message, or spam as it has been labled. I >wouldn't post this message unless I belieived it was worthwhile and >worth it. If you interste in saving a few dollars, then read on. >Allen Banks As far as I am concerned this is a beekeeping information site. I welcome anything related to beekeeping. You never know what someone might have to sell that you may not be able to find anywhere else. If you don't want to read it or see it...just delete it. Robert Williamson Southeast Texas Honey Co. P.O. Box 176 Vidor, Tx. 77670 " A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any prince" Article 25643 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed1.earthlink.net!newsfeed2.earthlink.net!newsfeed.earthlink.net!newsmaster1.prod.itd.earthlink.net!newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Darrell Gehlsen" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <394E7AD4.FE46CB03@bms.com> Subject: Re: Feeding honey Back to Bees Lines: 18 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 21:45:44 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 158.252.235.118 X-Complaints-To: abuse@earthlink.net X-Trace: newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net 961451144 158.252.235.118 (Mon, 19 Jun 2000 14:45:44 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 14:45:44 PDT Organization: EarthLink Inc. -- http://www.EarthLink.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25643 Dilute it with water (2/3 honey to 1/3 water) and put it in a feeder. Jesse Hunter wrote in message news:394E7AD4.FE46CB03@bms.com... > I have a five gallon bucket of dirty honey that I cleaned from my > basement floor following a spill. I want to feed this back to my > bees, What is the best way to do this and not have the bees from > other colonies fighting each other for it. Can I just smear it on > the top of the frames? if so how much at a time (I don't want the > bees to drown in it. > > Thanks for the info. > > --without the birds and bees, none of us would bee here-- > > Article 25644 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!1cust87.tnt35.dfw5.da.uu.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 19:10:52 -0500 Lines: 8 Message-ID: References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <8if823$gcg@atlas.lcc.net> Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: 1cust87.tnt35.dfw5.da.uu.net (63.17.159.87) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 961459857 5372309 63.17.159.87 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25644 James Kilty said: >I haven't collapsed yet but it seems my wife notices better than I do! That's right James..you know, men live longer if they live with women but women live longer if they live by themselves. C.K. Article 25645 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 00:23:46 +0100 Message-ID: References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <8if823$gcg@atlas.lcc.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 961458935 nnrp-11:12304 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 12 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25645 In article , Charlie Kroeger writes >I never notice being uncomfortable much because of all the interesting things >going on, that's why you need to be aware of dehydration and subsequent heat >stroke followed by death. So embarrassing to forget to keep yourself hydrated >and collapse in the bee yard. No one is going to come to your aid until after >dark, and by then, you'll probably be dead. I haven't collapsed yet but it seems my wife notices better than I do! I must promise myself to take out a large bottle of water every time. I feel a lot better when I do and *use* it. -- James Kilty Article 25646 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!europa.netcrusader.net!63.208.208.143!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp3.onemain.com.POSTED!dialup617.tnnas2.usit.net!user From: c@usit.net (C) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Queen Problems Message-ID: Lines: 31 Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 20:35:29 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.80.155.113 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp3.onemain.com 961464817 216.80.155.113 (Mon, 19 Jun 2000 21:33:37 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 21:33:37 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25646 My dilemma: A month ago I started two hives with 2lbs and a queen in each. Yes this is my first year of beekeeping. One hive is going strong and doing very well. Now the other hive is another story. I have looked for a queen for the last three weeks and cannot find her (yes she is marked). There has been no eggs laid only comb drawn out and the sugar/water stored. I have obtained another queen and placed her in her cage in the hive. In looking I have found a few brood cells and a few cells which appear to have larger protruding caps. These do not look like queen cells which are shown in the bee books which I have looked at for advice. I have destroyed these cells and the larva seems larger than the brood larva in the other hive. I have also seen some cells which appear to be brood cells bit a very few of them. Something is laying or has laid in this hive and again there is no queen that I have found. I have had no problem finding the queen in the other hive. I guess my question is what is the ramifications of having a new queen released and having something that is laying in the same hive. I still have not seen a queen....... Thanks in advance Charles cpierce@usit.net Article 25647 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!ptdnetS!newsgate.ptd.net!nnrp1.ptd.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <394ECDBE.76A8097@ptd.net> From: Russell Sears X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: bees are causing spots on my windows. References: <8ifel2$ra9$2@news0.skynet.be> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 6 Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 01:47:50 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.186.179.53 X-Complaints-To: abuse@ptd.net X-Trace: nnrp1.ptd.net 961465670 204.186.179.53 (Mon, 19 Jun 2000 21:47:50 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 21:47:50 EDT Organization: PenTeleData http://www.ptd.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25647 The spots are most likely feces from what we euphemistally call "cleansing flights". Don't be grossed out though. You can easily scrape them off with a razor blade type scraper. Thank you for your understanding and support of your neighboring beekeepers. Hopefully they'll supply a little honey to all of the neighbors to keep them sweet. Article 25648 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Re_Queening Question Lines: 2 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 20 Jun 2000 02:02:54 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000619220254.18783.00001380@ng-fk1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25648 They seem mean while the Queen are in cell, Twice she hatch, the bees will be more friendly to ya. I did me same way two weekago. Article 25649 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!ptdnetS!newsgate.ptd.net!nnrp1.ptd.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <394ECEA8.3B5A707E@ptd.net> From: Russell Sears X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Queen Problems References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 8 Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 01:51:45 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.186.179.53 X-Complaints-To: abuse@ptd.net X-Trace: nnrp1.ptd.net 961465905 204.186.179.53 (Mon, 19 Jun 2000 21:51:45 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 21:51:45 EDT Organization: PenTeleData http://www.ptd.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25649 Richard Taylor (if you've never read "The Joy of Beekeeping" you must get it) offers some great advice: when you have a problem such as this, wait a few weeks and leave the bees alone. Then check for a nice brood pattern, meaning lots of capped cells, which you should have by that time. Problems sometimes have a way of working themselves out. If you release a new queen into a hive with a laying queen, or something that they regard as a queen such as queen cells or laying workers, the new queen will mostly likely be destroyed along with your $13. Article 25650 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Re_Queening Question Lines: 3 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 20 Jun 2000 02:06:26 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000619220626.18783.00001381@ng-fk1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25650 Let me rephase the last Sentence.They did me same way two week ago. Sorry I mess up the sentence a min. ago. Kids and wife were playing around here while I was typeing. Article 25651 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Message-ID: <394E1A82.4D60F7A7@cybertours.com> Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:05:07 -0400 From: Midnite Bee Reply-To: midnitebee@cybertours.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Bees & Honey Production Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit NNTP-Posting-Host: 64.208.66.155 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 64.208.66.155 X-Trace: 19 Jun 2000 09:00:44 -0500, 64.208.66.155 Lines: 20 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.98.63.6 Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-feed.fnsi.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.cybertours.com!64.208.66.155 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25651 Greetings! We have a New England report on "Bees & Honey Production" for the years 1990-1999. This report was obtained from the USDA. http://www.cybertours.com/%7Emidnitebee/html/bee&honey.jpg -- Herb/Norma Holly-B Apiary PO Box 26 Wells,Maine 04090-0026 "an educated consumer is YOUR best customer" The Beekeeper's Home on the Internet http://www.mainebee.com Stony Critters http://www.stonycritters.com Article 25652 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Lines: 7 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 20 Jun 2000 02:19:16 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000619221916.18783.00001383@ng-fk1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25652 >women live longer if they live by themselves. > I'm sure they does, Cause we are the one to handle all the problem which cause our life span short. Fact, They will bury us in the cheapness pine box and dress us a suit that came from Goodwell. Oh well, Its going to get riot anyway. I don't mind the old stuff as long she leave me a jar of honey! Article 25653 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!63.208.208.143!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp3.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <394EEA7F.224B3CA4@indy.net> From: Tobi Elmore Organization: Arsenal Technical High School X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Re_Queening Question References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 39 Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 22:52:31 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.183.86.80 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp3.onemain.com 961472727 209.183.86.80 (Mon, 19 Jun 2000 23:45:27 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 23:45:27 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25653 Wait about 24 hours after you kill the old queen. That way the bees will know they are missing a queen and will accept the new one faster. Tobi Charles Stretch Ledford wrote: > Greetings, all... > > I put a swarm into my hive a few weeks ago, and have been thinking about > re-queening ever since. The queen that came with the swarm just didn't > seem to be laying as well as I would have liked (meaning as well as the > queen that came with a package of bees I put in last year), and the bees > are mean as hell, which has made me want to get a more gentle strain going > with a new queen. > > A couple of days ago, I opened the hive and found two queen cells being > constructed. This convinced me to order a new queen and put her in. > > My question is thus: > > In putting in the new queen, is there a proper order for a) Euthanizing > the old queen, b) Cutting out the queen cells, c) Putting the new queen > cage in the hive? > > I would imagine there is not, so I'm planning to just just cut the queen > cells, kill the old queen, and put the new queen cage in all with one > opening of the hive. > > Yes, no, mebbe? > > Thanks to all the experts! > > -- > Charles "Stretch" Ledford > STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY > "North America and the Entire World" > http://www.GoStretch.com Article 25654 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!199.79.239.47!news-peer.ivn.net!IVI-USENET!ivi-usenet From: "Spike Psarris" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: 10-frame spacing Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 23:57:08 -0600 Organization: Internet Ventures Usenet Services Lines: 14 Message-ID: <8in0vp$24h8$1@hardcore.ivn.net> References: <8i9ssm$1kb0$1@hardcore.ivn.net> <3948FB3E.BA05C557@cornell.edu> Reply-To: "Spike Psarris" NNTP-Posting-Host: dro-7-99.frontier.net X-Trace: hardcore.ivn.net 961480505 70184 207.174.108.99 (20 Jun 2000 05:55:05 GMT) X-Complaints-To: news-admin@ivn.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 20 Jun 2000 05:55:05 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25654 JGinNY wrote in message news:3948FB3E.BA05C557@cornell.edu... Joel, thanks for your advice. I mailed you a reply but the email bounced; cornell.edu claims you don't exist... I'm going to start prying them together from now on. It makes sense that this would work, I just always heard that they were supposed to be evenly spaced. Article 25655 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!63.208.208.143!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp1.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <394EF160.AAD03E2C@indy.net> From: Tobi Elmore Organization: Arsenal Technical High School X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <39460058.41601568@news1.radix.net> <8i6d25$hd6@atlas.lcc.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 13 Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 23:21:52 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.183.94.12 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp1.onemain.com 961474568 209.183.94.12 (Tue, 20 Jun 2000 00:16:08 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 00:16:08 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25655 I go real skempy on the equipment. Hat, veil gloves and my old dependable longsleeved sweat shirt. White painter pants. Works most of the time. (Gloves are starting to where out so I have been stung in the seams.) I am not confident enough to try it without the gloves but have worn short sleeve shirts. Tobi Article 25656 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!chnws02.mediaone.net!chnws05.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.8.70!typhoon.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <394F7EED.AA0431B4@riverace.com> From: Steve Huston Organization: Riverace Corporation X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Re_Queening Question References: <394EEA7F.224B3CA4@indy.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 58 Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 14:25:49 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.91.48.64 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: typhoon.ne.mediaone.net 961511149 24.91.48.64 (Tue, 20 Jun 2000 10:25:49 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 10:25:49 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25656 A couple of hours is probably enough... Also, if there's not a real good honey flow on, make sure you start feeding 1:1 syrup a day or two before, and keep it up til the new queen is well-established. And when you go to clear existing queens, make real sure you get them all. It can be easy to miss an already-hatched virgin, but if there's one there, they will not accept your new queen. -Steve Tobi Elmore wrote: > > Wait about 24 hours after you kill the old queen. That way the bees will know > they are missing a queen and will accept the new one faster. > > Tobi > > Charles Stretch Ledford wrote: > > > Greetings, all... > > > > I put a swarm into my hive a few weeks ago, and have been thinking about > > re-queening ever since. The queen that came with the swarm just didn't > > seem to be laying as well as I would have liked (meaning as well as the > > queen that came with a package of bees I put in last year), and the bees > > are mean as hell, which has made me want to get a more gentle strain going > > with a new queen. > > > > A couple of days ago, I opened the hive and found two queen cells being > > constructed. This convinced me to order a new queen and put her in. > > > > My question is thus: > > > > In putting in the new queen, is there a proper order for a) Euthanizing > > the old queen, b) Cutting out the queen cells, c) Putting the new queen > > cage in the hive? > > > > I would imagine there is not, so I'm planning to just just cut the queen > > cells, kill the old queen, and put the new queen cage in all with one > > opening of the hive. > > > > Yes, no, mebbe? > > > > Thanks to all the experts! > > > > -- > > Charles "Stretch" Ledford > > STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY > > "North America and the Entire World" > > http://www.GoStretch.com -- Steve Huston Riverace Corporation Email: shuston@riverace.com http://www.riverace.com ACE Kits, Support, Consulting (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185 Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html Article 25657 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeeds.nerdc.ufl.edu!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: bird poop looking stuff at hive entrance? Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 07:57:46 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 8 Message-ID: <394F866A.E859356F@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: faraday.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 961513538 6111 129.101.81.112 (20 Jun 2000 15:05:38 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 20 Jun 2000 15:05:38 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25657 I have some bird poop looking stuff at the hive entrance and partially in the 'doorway'. Is this bird crap or rejected larva or something like that? I found it in the front of two hives. It had some fine structure which made me wonder if it was some offering from the bees and not the birds. Thanks Matthew Article 25658 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!upp1.onvoy!msc1.onvoy!onvoy.com!hardy.tc.umn.edu!news.nero.net!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: I got Chalkbrood. Now what? Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 09:26:08 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 23 Message-ID: <394F9B1F.2BCBEE80@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 961518870 8079 129.101.81.41 (20 Jun 2000 16:34:30 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 20 Jun 2000 16:34:30 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25658 I have confirmed with photos i found somewhere on the web that i have chalkbrood. What do i do now? I'd rather not requeen, but will if needed- duhhh! Let me paint you the picture: purchased two five frame nucs from a commercial beekeeper who manages 1500+ hives. I have been feeding with a mason jar in the hive top since i got them 3 weeks ago- thick sugar solution. Last weekend i added a medium super to each because the nectar flow is picking up around here and 7 and 8 of the brood frames were partially drawn out but not necessairly filled. What i have read is that i should try to reduce stresses on the hive. Ok, i'll put in a boardman feeder instead (to keep sugar water from dripper down the inside of the hive) of the mason-jar-on-top-method. What else? Should i remove the new super? The weather here has been less than ideal (rain, then sun, then more rain...)- should i put on an entrance reducer? Or should I not worry? How much needs to me infected for me to throw in the towel and requeen? How easy is it to get a resistant queen? Silly bees! Thanks for the help. Matthew Moscow ID Article 25659 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!135.173.83.71!wnfilter1!worldnet-localpost!bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: Subject: Re: Queen Problems Lines: 55 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 19:16:38 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.51.200 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 961528598 12.72.51.200 (Tue, 20 Jun 2000 19:16:38 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 19:16:38 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25659 If the queen has not yet been released, stop and start over. You either have a laying worker or a drone laying queen but either way the colony is queen-right as far as they are concerned and will destroy the queen you are trying to introduce. Here is what I would do. Take a couple of frames of brood and bees (make sure you don't get the queen) from your other hive and make up a small nuc. Introduce the caged queen in the nuc. Once she is accepted, remove the old hive to about 20 feet away and put the nuc in its place. Shake all the bees from the old hive and place the bee-less frames into the nuc. The bees will find their way back to the old location but any laying workers will be lost. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "C" wrote in message news:c-1906002035300001@dialup617.tnnas2.usit.net... > My dilemma: > > A month ago I started two hives with 2lbs and a queen in each. Yes this is > my first year of beekeeping. One hive is going strong and doing very well. > > > Now the other hive is another story. I have looked for a queen for the > last three weeks and cannot find her (yes she is marked). There has been > no eggs laid only comb drawn out and the sugar/water stored. I have > obtained another queen and placed her in her cage in the hive. In looking > I have found a few brood cells and a few cells which appear to have larger > protruding caps. These do not look like queen cells which are shown in the > bee books which I have looked at for advice. I have destroyed these cells > and the larva seems larger than the brood larva in the other hive. I have > also seen some cells which appear to be brood cells bit a very few of > them. > > Something is laying or has laid in this hive and again there is no queen > that I have found. I have had no problem finding the queen in the other > hive. > > I guess my question is what is the ramifications of having a new queen > released and having something that is laying in the same hive. I still > have not seen a queen....... > > Thanks in advance > > Charles > > > cpierce@usit.net Article 25660 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.via.net!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "David Eyre" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: I got Chalkbrood. Now what? Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 16:34:31 -0400 Organization: The Bee Works Lines: 46 Message-ID: References: <394F9B1F.2BCBEE80@uidaho.edu> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25660 I would view this with caution. You say this was a nuc recently purchased? In which case it might well be the cleaning out of old dead brood from old combs used to make up the nuc. A small amount is really nothing to worry about. Another point, it's possible that you have the remains of chilled brood as well. Some drone brood develops what appears to be chalk brood, when the bees retire to a smaller cluster they'll leave drone unprotected and it gets chilled, then when they start to remove it you get what appears to be chalk brood. There is conflicting arguments regarding damp conditions causing chalk brood. From experience I found that a ventilated hive (dry) has a much lower incidence of chalk brood. -- David Eyre The Bee Works admin@beeworks.com www.beeworks.com 705 326 7171 Matthew Pollard wrote in message news:394F9B1F.2BCBEE80@uidaho.edu... > I have confirmed with photos i found somewhere on the web that i have > chalkbrood. What do i do now? I'd rather not requeen, but will if > needed- duhhh! Let me paint you the picture: purchased two five frame > nucs from a commercial beekeeper who manages 1500+ hives. I have been > feeding with a mason jar in the hive top since i got them 3 weeks ago- > thick sugar solution. Last weekend i added a medium super to each > because the nectar flow is picking up around here and 7 and 8 of the > brood frames were partially drawn out but not necessairly filled. > > What i have read is that i should try to reduce stresses on the hive. > Ok, i'll put in a boardman feeder instead (to keep sugar water from > dripper down the inside of the hive) of the mason-jar-on-top-method. > What else? Should i remove the new super? The weather here has been less > than ideal (rain, then sun, then more rain...)- should i put on an > entrance reducer? > > Or should I not worry? How much needs to me infected for me to throw in > the towel and requeen? How easy is it to get a resistant queen? Silly > bees! > Thanks for the help. > Matthew > Moscow ID > Article 25661 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!news-was.dfn.de!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: beekeeping as aerobic exercise! Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 20 Jun 2000 07:08:06 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000620030806.11868.00002675@ng-fs1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25661 Noticing how at times I'm exhausted after working with my bees, I wore my exercise heart meter today, just for the fun of it. Just working with my eight hives in 80 degree weather (wearing a Sheriff suit with levis) for a couple hours, produced about one and one-half hours of my pulse over 100 (between 100-110) and about 30+ minutes between 110 and 120. I was surprised--was taking my time, not under any unusual stress or anything! And, it was a lot more fun than working out at the local health club. Article 25662 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!24.92.226.72!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Leif Woodman Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: A small smarm problem Organization: lwoodman Reply-To: lwoodman.@at.rochester.rr.com Message-ID: X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.7/32.534 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 23 Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 01:25:47 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.210.152.190 X-Complaints-To: abuse@rochester.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 961550747 204.210.152.190 (Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:25:47 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:25:47 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25662 Ok so heres the deal: i am going to get my two nukes on friday, but today a swarm moved into my wall between floors. i put a cone over the opening and a nuke box opening at the end of the cone. I also drizzled a little honey on the bottom of the box to help coax them in. All that is in the box is frames and undrawn foundation. My question is what else can i do to help get them out of the wall and into a hive? would a frame of brood help on friday or would it be to late to save them? if i open the accoustic ceilling in one of the other rooms and smoke between the floors will it drive them out the hole? any other things i might try? thanx for the help Article 25663 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sdd.hp.com!enews.sgi.com!newsxfer.eecs.umich.edu!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp2.deja.com!nnrp2.deja.com!not-for-mail From: royaljelly@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: bee productsSupplies Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 23:48:27 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 8 Message-ID: <8iovsb$cq6$1@nnrp2.deja.com> References: <394BDBDE.1A4F3461@sympatico.ca> <8ij4ho$fij@titan.oit.unc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: iw8.deja.com X-Trace: nnrp2.deja.com 961544907 13126 10.12.1.135 (20 Jun 2000 23:48:27 GMT) X-Complaints-To: usenet@deja.com NNTP-Posting-Date: 20 Jun 2000 23:48:27 GMT X-Article-Creation-Date: Tue Jun 20 23:41:12 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0b1; Windows 98) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 cache1-pd (NetCache 4.1R1), 1.1 x70.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 61.129.142.110, 202.109.0.100 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25663 Our Website is http://www.lian-feng.com Can anyone ould like to link our website to your website? We are a copmpany producing bee products.‰ Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25664 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: kamtout@together.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Light, Heat and Location Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 02:06:23 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 44 Message-ID: <8ip7un$8pt$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <8i8r9r$g45$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <20000619130221.17724.00000154@ng-fj1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.91.3.63 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 21 02:06:23 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.5 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x68.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 209.91.3.63 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDkamtout Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25664 Question, When you place Tarpaper in order to help keep hive warm during cold > weather and what would happen if the bee fly out from the hive and end up hit a > cold snap in the air? > Tim > Tim, Normally bees don't fly about looking for honey until the temp is 51 or higher. But since they've been cooped up they will make short little runs for a 100 feet or so in quite cold weather since they need to defecate somewhere. If they hit a cold snap they fly back. Every winter during one of these cleansing flights its not unheard of to see bees dead all over but the numbers are usually only a few hundred. And this is with quite a few hives about. They'll definitely die or get deathly ill if it's so cold they can't leave the hive for 2 months, but that would be due to nosema. The tarpaper doesn't keep the hive warm. It does two things. #1 It provides a protection against wind. #2 it warms the hive to temperatures that allow the bees in the dead of a winter to slightly break cluster enough to let them move to another honey frame. Is it absolutely necessary? NO. This gets into a philosophical approach for some. I have freinds that never wrap theirs and others with HUNDREDS of hives and they feel the insurance of wrapping pays. It's time consuming more than expensive. One roll ($10.00) does about 20 hives. But in areas further north in Canada, wintering bees is a bit more serious. They experience colder temps (i.e. -30 to 40- below zero) on a regular basis and some move their hive to wintering chambers where the wind and cold are not as extreme. I've even seen arguments for killing bees each year and taking the winter stores as honey in these cold areas as it's economically better. go figure. Others up here move their bees to Carolinas where they can winter them over on only one deep super and take the other as extracted honey because the winters are easier there. Back to your original question, bees die when they fly in winter but it's not like the whole hive gets flying at once and instantly turns to crystal and drops in the field eh? Only a small bunch die in those flights. -- Mike in VT Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25665 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!news-lond.gip.net!news.gsl.net!gip.net!colt.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!firehose.mindspring.com!NewsWatcher!user From: HiStretch@GoStretch.com (Charles "Stretch" Ledford) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Re_Queening Question Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:51:31 -0600 Organization: STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY Lines: 19 Message-ID: References: <394EEA7F.224B3CA4@indy.net> <394F7EED.AA0431B4@riverace.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: d1.8a.a5.4b X-Server-Date: 21 Jun 2000 03:54:39 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25665 In article <394F7EED.AA0431B4@riverace.com>, Steve Huston wrote: > A couple of hours is probably enough... Well... I euthanized the old girl this morning... and the postman came this afternoon with the new one. I put her in about 8 hours or so after having removed the other one. We'll see whahappens manana. -- Charles "Stretch" Ledford STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY "North America and the Entire World" http://www.GoStretch.com Article 25666 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: paul_bilodeau@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A small smarm problem Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:32:19 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 38 Message-ID: <8iqckj$1po$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: 64.208.68.51 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 21 12:32:19 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; Windows 98; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x55.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 64.208.68.51 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDpaul_bilodeau Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25666 In article , lwoodman.@at.rochester.rr.com wrote: > Ok so heres the deal: > > i am going to get my two nukes on friday, but today a swarm moved into > my wall between floors. i put a cone over the opening and a nuke box > opening at the end of the cone. I also drizzled a little honey on the > bottom of the box to help coax them in. All that is in the box is > frames and undrawn foundation. > > My question is what else can i do to help get them out of the wall and > into a hive? > > would a frame of brood help on friday or would it be to late to save > them? > > if i open the accoustic ceilling in one of the other rooms and smoke > between the floors will it drive them out the hole? > > any other things i might try? > > thanx for the help > >Have you considered using a bee blower or if you have a shop vac - try placing the suction hose into the discharge side of the vacuum to create a make-shift bee blower ?? I'd be concerned that any small embers from smoking could start a fire inside the wall and then you'll have all kinds of problems. There is also a liquid bee smoke substance (sorry, I don't know the name) that you could place on a rag and use to drive them out. After they have left, you could pull the rag out to remove any long term odor problems. Good Luck, Paul Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25667 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!135.173.83.20!wnmasters3!bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <22350-39509A95-10@storefull-213.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Subject: Re: wet-appearing larva Lines: 56 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 17:00:10 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.49.110 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 961606810 12.72.49.110 (Wed, 21 Jun 2000 17:00:10 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 17:00:10 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25667 I will offer 3 possible explanations in no particular order. All center around a new queen. You say the queens are healthy looking. Were the Buckfast queens marked? 1. The colony perished and a swarm moved in within the last 7 days or so. 2. The colony swarmed and a new queen has just begun to lay. 3. The queen died or failed and a supercedure queen has just started to lay. Add the fermenting honey and my vote goes with #1 since the hive would have been unoccupied thus allowing the honey to ferment. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there wrote in message news:22350-39509A95-10@storefull-213.iap.bryant.webtv.net... > I have two hives of Buckfast bees in an outyard which I have badly > neglected this spring. After checking my hives at home, all five looked > to be going strong....knock on wood, I went to check on those hives. > > I have no hopes of collecting any honey from those two hives this year > which is a shame since the honey from that area is especially tasty. > I'm not sure of the nectar source, but the honey is excellent. That > should teach me a lesson about neglecting my bees. > > Both hives are deep supers with very healthy looking queens. The first > hive had sealed brood, eggs, and larva. It wasn't especially strong, > but it looked good. > > The second hive appeared to be a lot stronger than the first one. It > had three frames loaded with larva at different stages of development, > but not one capped cell. I went through the entire hive just to be sure > that I had not missed any capped brood. The larva looked wet and > glistening. They were all very white, normally shaped, and looked like > they were developing naturally except that not one cell had been sealed. > The new honey was not sealed either. > > The only other thing I noticed that was not normal was a strong wine > smell (fermenting honey?). There was still a lot of sealed honey in > the hive body and when I checked it, it smelled fine. They also > appeared to have plenty of pollen. > > I went through my bee books (a not too shabby collection that is ever > growing) and could find no reference to this problem. > > Please tell me my bees are drunk and not diseased!! > Article 25668 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!not-for-mail From: abarta@facstaff.wisc.edu (adrian barta) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Origins of Resistant AFB Date: 21 Jun 2000 17:03:03 GMT Organization: University of Wisconsin - Madison Lines: 55 Message-ID: <8iqsg7$fsk$1@news.doit.wisc.edu> References: <8i5cq3$47n$1@news.smartworld.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: ras-c5800-1-49-215.dialup.wisc.edu X-Trace: news.doit.wisc.edu 961606983 16276 128.104.49.215 (21 Jun 2000 17:03:03 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@doit.wisc.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 21 Jun 2000 17:03:03 GMT X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.99.9 (Beta 3) (x86 32bit) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25668 In article <8i5cq3$47n$1@news.smartworld.net>, allendick@freewwweb.com says... > >A number of prominent people in positions of authority -- and who should >know better -- have lately been repeating conjecture as fact. > >I'm talking about the slander against antibiotic extender patties. As far >as I know, there is not a shred of proof that they are a cause of >oxytetracycline (OTC) resistance in the bacillus that causes American >Foulbrood (AFB). > >The mechanisms behind resistance appearing are many and generally badly >misunderstood. Many of the ideas promulgated in the popular media are >simplistic at best and just plain wrong and dangerous at worse. > Allen, et al, The concern with extender patties is not that their use may have caused resistance to arise. As Allen has correctly pointed out, there are several possible mechanisms for that resistance to have evolved, many not yet well-understood. The origin of this one, or origins, may be forever a mystery. The concern lies, rather, with the selection pressure that lengthy, sub-lethal antibiotic exposure applies to the bacteria population. (The same holds true for mites and miticides, insect pests and insecticides....) Any antibiotic treatment to a mixed population (resistant and susceptible) kills off a large percentage of the susceptible portion of the population. The resistant portion of the population survives and is more successful at reproduction, thus becoming a larger portion of the group. With strong selection pressure, a minute resistant segment of the population can become the prevalent component surprisingly quickly. Fortunately for us, it is often the case that resistant types are less fit in the absence of the selection--imagine that the genes which provide resistance to tetracycline are filling space on the bacteria's DNA that does something else of value for the susceptibles in the absence of the chemical, such as increasing efficiency of food use or some such. Therefore, in the absence of the chemical, the resistant type will be outcompeted by the susceptible type. While the resistant type may not disappear entirely, it will remain a small percentage of the total population. Our task has become resistance management, something the rest of agriculture has been struggling with for some time. (Ask any apple grower you know about resistance concerns and fungicide use....) One strategy to minimize the proportion of the population which is resistant to a given chemical is to use the chemical as little as possible, while still giving sufficient control. That means no more than 42 day treatments for Apistan, rotating miticides where possible (formic acid in Spring, Apistan in Fall, for example), and antibiotic treatments that hit and are gone as quickly as possible. I've enjoyed your website,and theBeekeeper's Diary. Adrian Barta Madison, WI Article 25669 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!dialup-lbb-0437.nts-online.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: bumble bee economics Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:59:54 -0500 Lines: 5 Message-ID: <2l72lssijskttnja433i70sgv5qb5v29c0@4ax.com> References: <8fv1b0$93q$1@wanadoo.fr> <0d701ae0.5ffda2cf@usw-ex0110-076.remarq.com> Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup-lbb-0437.nts-online.net (216.167.132.182) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 961617593 5537262 216.167.132.182 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25669 have you found that book yet? Just curious.. C.K. Article 25670 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!1cust87.tnt35.dfw5.da.uu.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Thymol Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 19:13:56 -0500 Lines: 7 Message-ID: <7pdtksgje56er1iltep5se703kj82dmm0o@4ax.com> References: <20000517215644.13563.00000895@ng-fb1.news.cs.com> <394cac1e.1579423@news1.radix.net> Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: 1cust87.tnt35.dfw5.da.uu.net (63.17.159.87) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 961460037 5372309 63.17.159.87 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25670 David Eyre said: >If anyone needs it we have the UK variety. publish away. C.K. Article 25671 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!63.208.208.143!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp2.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <394F0281.133E45C9@indy.net> From: Tobi Elmore Organization: Arsenal Technical High School X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Russian Queens Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 5 Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 00:34:57 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 209.183.94.12 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp2.onemain.com 961478903 209.183.94.12 (Tue, 20 Jun 2000 01:28:23 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 01:28:23 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25671 My wife and I are thinking about adding a fourth hive of Russian Bees. Are they going to be readily available next year? Tobi and Mary Article 25672 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!brick.direct.ca!brie.direct.ca.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Normand" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <39460058.41601568@news1.radix.net> <8i6d25$hd6@atlas.lcc.net> <394EF160.AAD03E2C@indy.net> Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Lines: 17 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 06:56:44 -0700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.244.87.64 X-Complaints-To: abuse@direct.ca X-Trace: brie.direct.ca 961509067 204.244.87.64 (Tue, 20 Jun 2000 06:51:07 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 06:51:07 PDT Organization: Internet Direct - http://www.mydirect.com Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25672 About dehydration, I deal with a sport organisation (coach) and dehydration is taken care of by drinking 3 liters(3/4 of a gallon) of water a day minimum, starting 3 days before the need arise. one teaspoon of salt is added per liter. Drinking on the day is obviously a good idea but it's not enough. Drinking when you're thirsty is good but too late, by then you are already suffering. continious drinking through a camel pack for exemple(bicycle shops know what that is) is the best solution, Have the tube by your mouth inside the veil and take a sip whenever you feel like it ( actually, more often than you feel like it) Hope this trick will prevent you for collapsing. Be aware that most of us go on in life in constant state of mild dehydration and a bit more of water won't do us any harm. Normand Article 25673 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!newsfeed.cwix.com!chnws02.mediaone.net!chnws05.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.8.70!typhoon.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <394F8073.C44AE094@riverace.com> From: Steve Huston Organization: Riverace Corporation X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Queen Problems References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 43 Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 14:32:19 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.91.48.64 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: typhoon.ne.mediaone.net 961511539 24.91.48.64 (Tue, 20 Jun 2000 10:32:19 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 10:32:19 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25673 C wrote: > Now the other hive is another story. I have looked for a queen for the > last three weeks and cannot find her (yes she is marked). There has been > no eggs laid only comb drawn out and the sugar/water stored. I have > obtained another queen and placed her in her cage in the hive. In looking > I have found a few brood cells and a few cells which appear to have larger > protruding caps. These do not look like queen cells which are shown in the > bee books which I have looked at for advice. Right - it sounds like drone brood. > I have destroyed these cells > and the larva seems larger than the brood larva in the other hive. I have > also seen some cells which appear to be brood cells bit a very few of > them. > > Something is laying or has laid in this hive and again there is no queen > that I have found. I have had no problem finding the queen in the other > hive. > > I guess my question is what is the ramifications of having a new queen > released and having something that is laying in the same hive. I still > have not seen a queen....... Wait a few days or a week and check again - if you find your new queen and she's laying, you're in good shape. If your new queen is not there, but you have worker brood, you're also in good shape. If your new queen is not there, and you still have only drone brood, you probably have a laying worker. I'm not sure of the procedure for fixing this problem, but it should be in your book(s) and you can search this group's archive (at www.deja.com/usenet) as there's probably been discussion of it before. -Steve -- Steve Huston Riverace Corporation Email: shuston@riverace.com http://www.riverace.com ACE Kits, Support, Consulting (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185 Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html Article 25674 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!news.uunet.ca!nf1.mgmt.sympatico.ca!news1.bellglobal.com!news20.bellglobal.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <394F8D04.DEFAE208@honeyroad.com> From: workerbee@honeyroad.com Organization: My Beekeeping Homepage: http://www.honeyroad.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en,fr MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: bird poop looking stuff at hive entrance? References: <394F866A.E859356F@uidaho.edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 21 Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 15:24:28 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.172.183.171 X-Trace: news20.bellglobal.com 961514668 206.172.183.171 (Tue, 20 Jun 2000 11:24:28 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 11:24:28 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25674 Hi Mathew, I had a freind who complained about a similar thing, only he was calling it mouse dropings. When I went to his yard with him, I discovered it was chalkbrood. You might want to investigate inside the hive to see how bad it is. Aswell, check your states recomendations on dealing with the problem. There is no treatment for it. Our provincial recomendations suggest requeening. Allen Banks Matthew Pollard wrote: > I have some bird poop looking stuff at the hive entrance and partially > in the 'doorway'. Is this bird crap or rejected larva or something like > that? I found it in the front of two hives. It had some fine structure > which made me wonder if it was some offering from the bees and not the > birds. > Thanks > Matthew Article 25675 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!SonOfMaze.dpo.uab.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.tampabay.rr.com!typhoon.tampabay.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: spasmod@spasmod.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Good friends, Good Conversation, Good Music, MP3s of all types! 2 Terrabytes on line! 7033 Lines: 81 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 19:01:52 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.95.241.96 X-Complaints-To: abuse@rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.tampabay.rr.com 961614112 24.95.241.96 (Wed, 21 Jun 2000 15:01:52 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 15:01:52 EDT Organization: RoadRunner - Central Florida Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25675 There are lots of IRC channels where you can chat about music, but there are no files to download. And there are quite a few where you can download files but no one has time to chat. Would you like to find a small, cozy, IRC channel, where you can download the newest (and the oldest) music on the net, and also find good converstaion and good friends? Then try #MP3_Depot at irc.action-irc.net. We are a small channel with the largest database on the net! We have every new popular group you can think of. Need some Metallica? Napster account cancelled? Then come to us! We got it! New Deftones, Eminem, Staind, Tool, Backstreet Boys, Britney Spears, Whitney Houston and m0re! Thousands of videos. Want rock? We are Classic Rock heaven! Rare boots, as well as current groups, we have it all. If you have trouble finding Jazz, Blues, Bluegrass, country, Ragtime or even Barbershop, look no further! We have over 5000 of these hard to find albums! If you have ever looked for classical MP3's you know that they are not easy to find. However, we have an extensive classical library at MP3_Depot. An important part of the collection is the classical guitar section, with extensive Segovia works, among others. We have all the old masters as well as modern composers such as Phillip Glass. The majority of our servers are high speed, from ASDL to T-1. If you have never used IRC before, IRC is really easy to use. This will directly download MIRC, the program you need: http://cosmos.lod.com/~blufire/mirc571t.exe Install it, then add these servers: irc.action-irc.net (Random Server) Omen.action-irc.net (Preferred Server) psycho.action-irc.net slapstick.action-irc.net taketwo.action-irc.net (We own the net so you can be SURE of good service!) Connect to one of these servers. A window will pop up with lots of channels. Select them all and delete them. Then add this channel #MP3_Depot You need the #. Join that channel. If you can't figure out how to add a channel, once you have logged into a server and get the welcome message, close the menu box and at the bottom of the page just type this: /join #MP3_Depot No space or other character before the / That will bring you to our channel From there just ask any question you have and someone will answer it. We will be looking for you! mucoidemixhtwdhcfvlbgxrdwt Article 25676 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A small smarm problem Lines: 21 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 21 Jun 2000 21:05:57 GMT References: <8iqckj$1po$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000621170557.10476.00000053@ng-bd1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25676 >There is also a liquid bee smoke substance >(sorry, I don't know the name) Bee goo that you could place on a rag and use to >drive them out. After they have left, you could pull the rag out to I would not put the rag in enter hole cause it will drive them farther inside. How bout this one.... drill small hole as backend ( behind the bees) and squirt bee goo in. Don't stand in front cause it will drive them out very quicken. If I've knew those stink smelling bee goo drive them out, I would have borrow my Dad socks and place it inside my smoker with out lite it. :-) Who know? It might would have killed all my bees? > >Good Luck, >Paul > Article 25677 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A small smarm problem Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 20:04:06 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 31 Message-ID: <39511f72.1006940@news1.radix.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: p36.a1.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25677 On Wed, 21 Jun 2000 01:25:47 GMT, Leif Woodman wrote: >Ok so heres the deal: > >i am going to get my two nukes on friday, but today a swarm moved into >my wall between floors. i put a cone over the opening and a nuke box >opening at the end of the cone. I also drizzled a little honey on the >bottom of the box to help coax them in. All that is in the box is >frames and undrawn foundation. > >My question is what else can i do to help get them out of the wall and >into a hive? > >would a frame of brood help on friday or would it be to late to save >them? > >if i open the accoustic ceilling in one of the other rooms and smoke >between the floors will it drive them out the hole? > >any other things i might try? > >thanx for the help > > > Pay a professional the $350.00 to remove them properly. If not it may cost you much more in the long run. Greg the beekeep Article 25678 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!europa.netcrusader.net!152.163.239.131!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Screen saver Bees? Lines: 5 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 21 Jun 2000 21:12:58 GMT References: <20000618082047.20439.00002683@ng-ba1.aol.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000621171258.10476.00000054@ng-bd1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25678 I have not gotten any respond So, I guess nobody have any Screen Saver Bees? I guess I will use my Handcam record to record brood full of working bees and sent it over to Kinko to see if they can scan it for live bees screen saver. Though it would be cute? Tim Article 25679 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Buckfast bees (which race)? Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 23:39:35 +0100 Message-ID: <+55OEyAnQUU5Ew5D@kilty.demon.co.uk> References: <3950D469.CD2EC696@okstate.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 961627278 nnrp-08:28833 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 11 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25679 In article <3950D469.CD2EC696@okstate.edu>, Gary Johns writes >What race are Buckfast bees considered to be from originally? Apis >Mellifera ??? Apis mellifera is the species name. The others include Apis cerana, Apis dorsata, Apis florea. Adam brought several races of A.m. to his breeding programme. These are given as Apis mellifera racename. I don't have the list of racenames to hand but you'll find it in books about Buckfast bees and Brother Adam. -- James Kilty Article 25680 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.via.net!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.Arizona.EDU!not-for-mail From: John Edwards Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:31:13 -0700 Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Lines: 36 Message-ID: <39513420.9873C611@tucson.ars.ag.gov> References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <39495DBE.66970DD7@tucson.ars.ag.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: feral-bee.tucson.ars.ag.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en,pdf Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25680 Charlie Kroeger wrote: > John Edwards comments: > > >Let me guess - are you in Arizona or Texas ?? > > That's right. I recently got a swarm from Canyon, Texas that made things hot > right out of the swarm cluster. > > They're not African bees, in the sense they will come for you if you're just > standing around the bee yard, but their initial reaction to being opened > would make you think they were. You're describing the AHB if they pour out of the entrance like a black carpet, and leave the combs beeless. The AHB comes in several different flavors, just like dog/coyote/wolf hybrids. Some of them are slow to start at you. Stinging from swarms is one of our charcters. Welcome to the future. ----------------------------------------------------------- John F. Edwards Biological Lab. Technician "Feral Bee Tracker and AHB Identifier" Carl Hayden Bee Research Center Agricultural Research Service - USDA 2000 E. Allen Road Tucson, Arizona 85719 32.27495 N 110.9402 W http://198.22.133.109/ http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/home/edwards/edwards.html Article 25681 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!headwall.stanford.edu!unlnews.unl.edu!newsfeed.ksu.edu!nntp.ksu.edu!news.okstate.edu!not-for-mail From: Gary Johns Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Buckfast bees (which race)? Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 09:42:49 -0500 Organization: Oklahoma State University Lines: 3 Message-ID: <3950D469.CD2EC696@okstate.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: x8b4e76e3.dhcp.okstate.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25681 What race are Buckfast bees considered to be from originally? Apis Mellifera ??? Article 25682 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: Pete Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A small smarm problem Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 21:39:53 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 24 Message-ID: <8ircn9$qkp$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.152.6.101 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 21 21:39:53 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.7 [en]C-CCK-MCD snapN45b1 (Win95; U) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x56.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 216.152.6.101 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDhrogers000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25682 > lwoodman.@at.rochester.rr.com wrote: > My question is what else can i do to help get them out of the wall and > into a hive? would a frame of brood help on friday or would it be to >late to save them? > if i open the accoustic ceilling in one of the other rooms and smoke > between the floors will it drive them out the hole? ************************************************** Howdy Lief -- Friday should not be too late to use a frame of brood (with eggs). Trying to smoke them out will be of no avail. You have to funnel trap them out and give them a home to go to. They can raise a queen from the eggs in your frame of nuc brood. Pete So much to learn - So little time ! ************************************************** Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25683 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.via.net!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.Arizona.EDU!not-for-mail From: John Edwards Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:43:44 -0700 Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Lines: 36 Message-ID: <3951370F.ACA0476F@tucson.ars.ag.gov> References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <39460058.41601568@news1.radix.net> <8i6d25$hd6@atlas.lcc.net> <394EF160.AAD03E2C@indy.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: feral-bee.tucson.ars.ag.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en,pdf Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25683 Normand wrote: > About dehydration, > > Drinking on the day is obviously a good idea but it's not enough. > Drinking when you're thirsty is good but too late, by then you are already > suffering. > > Be aware that most of us go on in life in constant state of mild dehydration > and a bit more of water won't do us any harm. > Normand Several years ago, I read that the Israeli military put a small amount of sugar in water supplied to the troops in the field, to get them to force down more water. Of course, you couldn't keep the same water for several days because of growths. -- John ----------------------------------------------------------- John F. Edwards Biological Lab. Technician "Feral Bee Tracker and AHB Identifier" Carl Hayden Bee Research Center Agricultural Research Service - USDA 2000 E. Allen Road Tucson, Arizona 85719 32.27495 N 110.9402 W http://198.22.133.109/ http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/home/edwards/edwards.html Article 25684 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Use unprotect bee suit Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 22:40:40 +0100 Message-ID: <+O2+5VAYZTU5Ewqt@kilty.demon.co.uk> References: <20000612233635.16995.00000911@ng-ba1.aol.com> <8if823$gcg@atlas.lcc.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 961626103 nnrp-10:16518 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 14 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25684 In article , Charlie Kroeger writes >James Kilty said: > >>I haven't collapsed yet but it seems my wife notices better than I do! > >That's right James..you know, men live longer if they live with women but >women live longer if they live by themselves. > >C.K. A good belly laugh clears the head. Thanks. And I have two "women": the other being a (just) six year old. I expect to live to a ripe old age. -- James Kilty Article 25685 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!newsfeed.icl.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: beekeeping as aerobic exercise! Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 22:50:32 +0100 Message-ID: References: <20000620030806.11868.00002675@ng-fs1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 961626108 nnrp-10:16518 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 13 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25685 In article <20000620030806.11868.00002675@ng-fs1.aol.com>, LKLarson1 writes >Noticing how at times I'm exhausted after working with my bees, I wore my >exercise heart meter today, just for the fun of it. Just working with my eight >hives in 80 degree weather (wearing a Sheriff suit with levis) for a couple >hours, produced about one and one-half hours of my pulse over 100 (between >100-110) and about 30+ minutes between 110 and 120. I was surprised--was >taking my time, not under any unusual stress or anything! And, it was a lot >more fun than working out at the local health club. does this mean with 50 hives I should stop bothering about my waist- line? Not that 80 degrees is common here. -- James Kilty Article 25686 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp2.deja.com!nnrp2.deja.com!not-for-mail From: craig1966@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: extractor maintenance Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 01:10:12 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 16 Message-ID: <8irp1n$jm9$1@nnrp2.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: iw8.deja.com X-Trace: nnrp2.deja.com 961636215 20169 10.12.1.135 (22 Jun 2000 01:10:15 GMT) X-Complaints-To: usenet@deja.com NNTP-Posting-Date: 22 Jun 2000 01:10:15 GMT X-Article-Creation-Date: Thu Jun 22 00:54:01 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 4.01; Windows 98; formatnec) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x67.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 206.99.182.204 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25686 I'm new to beekeeping and got hold of a basic extractor. It's nothing fancy; actually it is a 20 gallon heavy duty garbage can (gray plastic) with a metal type basket the frames set in (holds 3 deep or 6 shallow). It has a 1 1/2 inch gate valve at the base and is hand cranked. It came from an estate auction and needs a good cleaning up. I'm hoping to extract my first ever honey this year and want to make sure I clean the extractor properly. Any suggestions? Any cleaning products to avoid? Any advice would be appreciated. Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25687 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.austin.rr.com!typhoon.austin.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "No1" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Newbie question - Feed mixture Lines: 11 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Message-ID: <9me45.51922$cH1.463373@typhoon.austin.rr.com> Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 01:55:17 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.27.124.231 X-Complaints-To: abuse@rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.austin.rr.com 961638917 24.27.124.231 (Wed, 21 Jun 2000 20:55:17 CDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 20:55:17 CDT Organization: Road Runner - Texas Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25687 Here's a question: What does the 1:1 mixture for feeding sugar syrup imply? a) 1 part sugar to 1 part water (by volume) or b) 1 part sugar to 1 part water (by weight) or c) 1 pound sugar to 1 gallon water Thanks for your reply, Robert - a bee-ginner Article 25688 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: extractor maintenance Lines: 4 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 22 Jun 2000 01:55:59 GMT References: <8irp1n$jm9$1@nnrp2.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000621215559.04835.00000010@ng-fg1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25688 >It came >from an estate auction Lucky, How much did you give for? Article 25689 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Cross combs Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 22 Jun 2000 02:22:25 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000621222225.04835.00000017@ng-fg1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25689 This is something I don't understand, I place new foundation in my super about month ago and check on it today. The worker build comb upside down like a Rollorcoast and it was kind like angle 10 degree off but, not straight along the foundation. Does I have retard Engineer bees? This happen on Four frame of Nine frame Super. I can understand that happen if you forget to put foundation in. Tim Article 25690 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: bears and bacon and electricity Lines: 4 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 22 Jun 2000 02:29:27 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000621222927.04835.00000018@ng-fg1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25690 Hum, Why not shoot the bear and roll some bacon on some meat to kill Wild taste and fry it with Electrical circuit? To add more flavor, dip it with Honey. That way no bear will be coming back and knew it was a killing field. LOL Article 25691 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: extractor maintenance Message-ID: References: <8irp1n$jm9$1@nnrp2.deja.com> X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.30.1784 Lines: 26 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 23:00:36 EDT Organization: WebUseNet Corp http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 19:57:05 -0700 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25691 With my first honey crop, I took the hive bodies, after brushing the bees off, of course, out to Mike the Beekeeper, Grafter, Welder and Mechanic's house and before he used his extractor he hooked up a hose to his hot water heater cleanout and we used hot water and brushes to get the extractor squeeky clean. In article <8irp1n$jm9$1@nnrp2.deja.com>, craig1966@my-deja.com says... > I'm new to beekeeping and got hold of a basic > extractor. It's nothing fancy; actually it is a > 20 gallon heavy duty garbage can (gray plastic) > with a metal type basket the frames set in (holds > 3 deep or 6 shallow). It has a 1 1/2 inch gate > valve at the base and is hand cranked. It came > from an estate auction and needs a good cleaning > up. I'm hoping to extract my first ever honey > this year and want to make sure I clean the > extractor properly. Any suggestions? Any > cleaning products to avoid? Any advice would be > appreciated. > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Before you buy. > Article 25692 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news-lond.gip.net!news-peer.gip.net!news.gsl.net!gip.net!europa.netcrusader.net!152.163.239.129!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: gwongdung@aol.com (Gwongdung) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: WAX: What to do with NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 22 Jun 2000 04:53:52 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000622005352.17364.00000248@ng-fp1.aol.com> Lines: 8 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25692 Hello ! I'm a new beekeeper, and each time I check my hive there is burr comb to scrape. What do you do with this -- is there a good way to store the wax through the season until I have enough to do something with ? Are there any articles on how to render beeswax online ? Thanks, Ed Article 25693 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!europa.netcrusader.net!152.163.239.129!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: WAX: What to do with Lines: 14 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 23 Jun 2000 00:10:23 GMT References: <39524159.9481A611@okstate.edu> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000622201023.04011.00000191@ng-cc1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25693 >Throw the pantyhose/detritus away after about 5 strainings or when it will no >longer pass the wax through. Makes a good fire starter. Try a piece of sweatshirt material fuzzy side up as a strainer works very well even finer than hoisery. Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 25694 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!blackbush.xlink.net!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!1cust51.tnt39.dfw5.da.uu.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: BEES IN OLD HOUSE HOW CAN I GET THEM OUT???? Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 18:31:53 -0500 Lines: 38 Message-ID: <8c45ls4rp0d2ni81de6cnnbmtdpp2n2eip@4ax.com> References: <21689-3951A358-74@storefull-251.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: 1cust51.tnt39.dfw5.da.uu.net (63.17.169.51) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 961716712 5433116 63.17.169.51 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25694 >Hi i have a friend who has a old farm house with honeybees inbetween the >wall boards. is there a way i can get them out with out having to end up >killing them? Yes, simple, remove the wall boards one by one until the hive is completely exposed, with a long bread knife, remove all the comb to plenty of 5 gal buckets. Plan of action: IF YOU FIND THE QUEEN: Put her in a box with her natural comb that includes brood and stores. I have a special Langstroth box for supporting natural comb. Inside are two parallel rows of 3/8 inch wooden dowels on 1 inch centers. The dowel strips are secured by screws that can be moved closer or further apart as need be. The natural comb is securely held between the dowel "teeth" at a close proximity to natural spacing, but prevented from touching. When the bees settle in for the night, (the flyers will go to the queen, the nurse bees will need to be brushed in) but by night they should all be inside. Then, close them up and they're ready for moving. If the move is less than say, two miles, put a bunch of grass and chewable obstacles in the entrance, something that will take them a day or two to chew through. After that they'll see their new entrance as home. Lastly, it is tricky to expect a hive like this to build up new foundation. It is better if you can add a box above them that contains frames with drawn comb, supposedly with a few enticements like stores and brood included. IF YOU DON'T FIND THE QUEEN: You will probably not find the queen during all the destruction. If that occurs you won't save many bees either. You may bag up enough to join with a weak hive. You can however extract the honey (by hand) Don't forget to wear your rubber gloves when squeezing the combs, bee bodies (with stingers) trapped in the combs can still sting. The bee may be dead but the apparatus still works. Lastly, replace the boards and seal up the old entrance; receive hefty cheque from grateful property owner. C.K. Article 25695 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!ptdnetS!newsgate.ptd.net!nnrp1.ptd.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <3952C0DA.250FD0B9@ptd.net> From: Russell Sears X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Swarm combining with existing colony References: <20000622112225.13989.00000025@ng-ch1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 4 Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 01:47:32 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.186.179.15 X-Complaints-To: abuse@ptd.net X-Trace: nnrp1.ptd.net 961724852 204.186.179.15 (Thu, 22 Jun 2000 21:47:32 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 21:47:32 EDT Organization: PenTeleData http://www.ptd.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25695 I've never tried it but I heard/read that you need to use more than one queen excluder, perhaps two right on top of each other. That's because with one, the queens can still reach each other and end your two-queen aspirations. Article 25696 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!oleane.net!oleane!news-raspail.gip.net!news.gsl.net!gip.net!news5-gui.server.ntli.net!ntli.net!news2-win.server.ntlworld.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Graham Read" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <20000622005352.17364.00000248@ng-fp1.aol.com> Subject: Re: What to do with Lines: 34 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Message-ID: <0IG45.7917$_55.172037@news2-win.server.ntlworld.com> Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:08:09 +0100 NNTP-Posting-Host: 62.252.12.133 X-Complaints-To: abuse@net.ntl.com X-Trace: news2-win.server.ntlworld.com 961755004 62.252.12.133 (Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:10:04 BST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:10:04 BST Organization: ntlworld News Service Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25696 I put all my old wax into a 'solar wax extractor', where it slowly melts down, runs through a filter and into a metal tin ready for collecting. Some I turn into polish & candles, the rest goes to Thornes (here in the UK) where I exchange it for fresh new foundation. Easy ! The solar wax extractor is a black wooden box with a double glass lid, it sits on my garage roof facing south to make the most of the sun's heat. Inside is tray which slopes down to a metal filter & collecting tray. Even here in the UK the sun's heat is sufficient to melt the wax over a couple of weeks in the summer. Its easy, with little mess and doesn't mess up the kitchen! Graham 4 Hives, Hampshire, UK - a black box with a double glass lid Gwongdung wrote in message news:20000622005352.17364.00000248@ng-fp1.aol.com... > Hello ! > I'm a new beekeeper, and each time I check my hive there is burr comb to > scrape. What do you do with this -- is there a good way to store the wax > through the season until I have enough to do something with ? Are there any > articles on how to render beeswax online ? > > Thanks, > Ed Article 25697 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: hcampb@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: BEES IN OLD HOUSE HOW CAN I GET THEM OUT???? Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:21:17 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 35 Message-ID: <8ivh75$pvg$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <21689-3951A358-74@storefull-251.iap.bryant.webtv.net> <8c45ls4rp0d2ni81de6cnnbmtdpp2n2eip@4ax.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 205.188.193.178 X-Article-Creation-Date: Fri Jun 23 11:21:17 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; AOL 5.0; Windows 98; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x56.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 205.188.193.178 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDhcampb Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25697 > > I have a special Langstroth box for supporting natural comb. Inside are two > parallel rows of 3/8 inch wooden dowels on 1 inch centers. The dowel strips > are secured by screws that can be moved closer or further apart as need be. > The natural comb is securely held between the dowel "teeth" at a close > proximity to natural spacing, but prevented from touching. When the bees > settle in for the night, (the flyers will go to the queen, the nurse bees will > need to be brushed in) but by night they should all be inside. Then, close > them up and they're ready for moving. Charlie, that's a great idea!! I've got to try to make one of those. I made some wire cages out of 1/2 inch hardware cloth to hold the comb, but it is impossible to get proper spacing. We took a big colony out from between a window and a piece of plywood, (nailed over the window for hurricane protection and left there too long), the other day and were fortunate enough to find the queen early in the process. Nevertheless such jobs are always messy and you can't charge enough to pay for the trouble. Besides losing a lot of bees! If there is time, I much prefer to use the screen funnel method as I described yesterday. BTW I noticed that it didn't get posted until today. Some wierd stuff going on at deja.com. Herb Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25698 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-feed.fnsi.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: I got Chalkbrood. Now what? Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 09:18:14 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 31 Message-ID: <395087f4.39302517@news1.radix.net> References: <394F9B1F.2BCBEE80@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: p9.a1.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25698 On Tue, 20 Jun 2000 09:26:08 -0700, Matthew Pollard wrote: >I have confirmed with photos i found somewhere on the web that i have >chalkbrood. What do i do now? I'd rather not requeen, but will if >needed- duhhh! Let me paint you the picture: purchased two five frame >nucs from a commercial beekeeper who manages 1500+ hives. I have been >feeding with a mason jar in the hive top since i got them 3 weeks ago- >thick sugar solution. Last weekend i added a medium super to each >because the nectar flow is picking up around here and 7 and 8 of the >brood frames were partially drawn out but not necessairly filled. > >What i have read is that i should try to reduce stresses on the hive. >Ok, i'll put in a boardman feeder instead (to keep sugar water from >dripper down the inside of the hive) of the mason-jar-on-top-method. >What else? Should i remove the new super? The weather here has been less >than ideal (rain, then sun, then more rain...)- should i put on an >entrance reducer? > >Or should I not worry? How much needs to me infected for me to throw in >the towel and requeen? How easy is it to get a resistant queen? Silly >bees! >Thanks for the help. >Matthew >Moscow ID > Smile, the odds are if you have chalkbrood you won't have foulbrood! Chalkbrood comes and goes and usually does little harm. Greg the beekeep Article 25699 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!paloalto-snf1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!webtv.net!not-for-mail From: melrac@webtv.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: wet-appearing larva Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 06:36:05 -0400 (EDT) Organization: WebTV Subscriber Lines: 31 Message-ID: <22350-39509A95-10@storefull-213.iap.bryant.webtv.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAsAhQEGk3TYHQxOoYVkmbO88ZSey5ZwQIUfTCaGRfKDHt6iean/A9qBc3k2kI= Content-Disposition: Inline Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25699 I have two hives of Buckfast bees in an outyard which I have badly neglected this spring. After checking my hives at home, all five looked to be going strong....knock on wood, I went to check on those hives. I have no hopes of collecting any honey from those two hives this year which is a shame since the honey from that area is especially tasty. I'm not sure of the nectar source, but the honey is excellent. That should teach me a lesson about neglecting my bees. Both hives are deep supers with very healthy looking queens. The first hive had sealed brood, eggs, and larva. It wasn't especially strong, but it looked good. The second hive appeared to be a lot stronger than the first one. It had three frames loaded with larva at different stages of development, but not one capped cell. I went through the entire hive just to be sure that I had not missed any capped brood. The larva looked wet and glistening. They were all very white, normally shaped, and looked like they were developing naturally except that not one cell had been sealed. The new honey was not sealed either. The only other thing I noticed that was not normal was a strong wine smell (fermenting honey?). There was still a lot of sealed honey in the hive body and when I checked it, it smelled fine. They also appeared to have plenty of pollen. I went through my bee books (a not too shabby collection that is ever growing) and could find no reference to this problem. Please tell me my bees are drunk and not diseased!! Article 25700 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-feed.fnsi.net!netnews.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: wet-appearing larva Lines: 19 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 21 Jun 2000 11:48:26 GMT References: <22350-39509A95-10@storefull-213.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000621074826.04990.00001082@ng-fp1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25700 >The second hive appeared to be a lot stronger than the first one. It >had three frames loaded with larva at different stages of development, >but not one capped cell. I went through the entire hive just to be sure >that I had not missed any capped brood. The larva looked wet and >glistening. They were all very white, normally shaped, and looked like >they were developing naturally except that not one cell had been sealed. >The new honey was not sealed either. If possible that you test you hive just it time they getting ready to cap it? > >The only other thing I noticed that was not normal was a strong wine >smell (fermenting honey?). I something can smell my about 4 or 5 feet from the hive ( The brood chamber look very health) and realize it was my bees fan the hive to keep it cool and sometime when u lift the lid, You could feld the fan blow front of your face. So, Don't my quote because this might not be the answer to your question. Cheer Tim Article 25701 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.icl.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!server6.netnews.ja.net!news.york.ac.uk!not-for-mail From: Waites Paul Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Beginners question: on Brood & half method Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 17:00:35 +0100 Organization: University of York Lines: 23 Sender: prw3@york.ac.uk Message-ID: <395389A3.BAC0CB27@york.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: biolpc49.york.ac.uk Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: pump1.york.ac.uk 961775988 6442 144.32.212.17 (23 Jun 2000 15:59:48 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@york.ac.uk NNTP-Posting-Date: 23 Jun 2000 15:59:48 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en]C-CCK-MCD (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25701 Hi all, My two hives are on brood & a half which is what I was recommended for beekeeping in an urban environment. This Spring was very wet here in York UK and when I did finally get into my main hive, it was very damp and much of the stores were mouldy. The queen had retreated upwards into the "super-brood" area leaving the main brood box alone. I've replaced all the effected comb in the main brood chamber with fresh frames of foundation but the workers still haven't drawn it out and she remains cramped into the smaller top chamber. The colony is now making plans to swarm judging by the number of queen cells that I am removing at each inspection. I was thinking of putting the larger brood box above the "super" to encourage her to go back into the main brood box. What do people think. Do you think that I risk loosing some of the brood that I do have from the smaller chamber if I swap it over with the brood box. Many thanks for any advice. Paul. Article 25702 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!howland.erols.net!news-out.worldnet.att.net.MISMATCH!wn3feed!worldnet.att.net!wnmasters3!bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <395389A3.BAC0CB27@york.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Beginners question: on Brood & half method Lines: 48 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 17:56:28 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.50.28 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 961782988 12.72.50.28 (Fri, 23 Jun 2000 17:56:28 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 17:56:28 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25702 There was no need to remove the moldy frames. It is normal for the queen to go up and it is unlikely that she did so to get away from the mold. Bees will readily clean it up. What you should have done was to reverse the brood boxes by putting the bottom one on top. Reversing is an accepted method of reducing swarming. If you are cutting out queen cells, you will have a difficult time stopping them from swarming. If you still have the moldy frames, put them back above the "super". If all you have is foundation, put it above the super. Reversing can be repeated as necessary. I am a little perplexed as to the recommendation for 1 1/2 configuration for "beekeeping in an urban environment". Regardless of whether they are city bees or country bees, they need enough room for the local environment. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "Waites Paul" wrote in message news:395389A3.BAC0CB27@york.ac.uk... > Hi all, > > My two hives are on brood & a half which is what I was recommended for > beekeeping in an urban environment. > > This Spring was very wet here in York UK and when I did finally get into > my main hive, it was very damp and much of the stores were mouldy. The > queen had retreated upwards into the "super-brood" area leaving the main > brood box alone. I've replaced all the effected comb in the main brood > chamber with fresh frames of foundation but the workers still haven't > drawn it out and she remains cramped into the smaller top chamber. The > colony is now making plans to swarm judging by the number of queen cells > that I am removing at each inspection. > > I was thinking of putting the larger brood box above the "super" to > encourage her to go back into the main brood box. What do people think. > Do you think that I risk loosing some of the brood that I do have from > the smaller chamber if I swap it over with the brood box. > > Many thanks for any advice. > > Paul. > Article 25703 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.via.net!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!WReNclone!WReNphoon3.POSTED!WReN!not-for-mail X-Originating-Host: 216.67.16.122 Organization: http://www.remarq.com: The World's Usenet/Discussions Start Here Subject: Re: bears and bacon and electricity Lines: 16 From: michael Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Message-ID: <0047ef02.b05106b1@usw-ex0104-031.remarq.com> References: <20000621222927.04835.00000018@ng-fg1.aol.com> <39534036.94676D70@together.net> Bytes: 663 X-Wren-Trace: eAksBAUcWxFaRBQCBEgNDBoKCywbAlsTCBYWE04TFV1GXRheSR9LSVReQ11VGw== Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:05:09 -0700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 10.0.2.31 X-Complaints-To: wrenabuse@remarq.com X-Trace: WReNphoon3 961784292 10.0.2.31 (Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:18:12 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:18:12 PDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25703 Hum, Why not shoot the bear and roll some bacon on some meat to kill Wild taste and fry it with Electrical circuit? To add more flavor, dip it with Honey. That way no bear will be coming back and knew it was a killing field. LOL ======================================================= "O Breath of Life, give us this day our daily food, deliver us from the curse of the ice, save us from our forest enemies, and with mercy receive us into the great beyond." -Onagar http://www.urantia.org ======================================================= Got questions? Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com Article 25704 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.tampabay.rr.com!typhoon.tampabay.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: spasmod@spasmod.com Newsgroups: alt.fan.drew-barrymore,alt.games.final-fantasy,alt.fan.elite.project,sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Need Movies? At #mc-movies you can get Shaft... not Shafted! Lines: 81 Message-ID: Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 16:51:58 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.95.241.96 X-Complaints-To: abuse@rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.tampabay.rr.com 961779118 24.95.241.96 (Fri, 23 Jun 2000 12:51:58 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 12:51:58 EDT Organization: RoadRunner - Central Florida Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu alt.fan.drew-barrymore:10206 alt.games.final-fantasy:133193 alt.fan.elite.project:199 sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25704 Newest... and oldest... movies, available for download. TITAN... gone in 60 seconds... We have the biggest collection on the net! Multiple T-3 lines, nice, friendly, helpful people will be happy to help you find what you need. If you have never used IRC before, IRC is really easy to use. 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We will be looking for you! lvvzxewewffcwlhuwwsezjbeirqfbfcdxupswwwmvqelxrh Article 25705 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!news-xfer.siscom.net!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.nero.net!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: why reversable bottom boards? Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 12:13:44 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 4 Message-ID: <3953B6E8.91E4A8A5@uidaho.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 961788120 8091 129.101.81.41 (23 Jun 2000 19:22:00 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 23 Jun 2000 19:22:00 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25705 Why the reversable bottom boards? Is one side shorter than the other - sort of an entrance reducer thing? -Matthew Article 25706 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Beginners question: on Brood & half method Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 23:04:25 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 46 Message-ID: <8j0o9i$jtd$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <395389A3.BAC0CB27@york.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-43.flonase.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news6.svr.pol.co.uk 961799282 20397 62.136.95.43 (23 Jun 2000 22:28:02 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 23 Jun 2000 22:28:02 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25706 I think that you need advice from local beekeepers. I my view, brood and a half is an awful way to set up a hive, but if the queen is only occupying the 'half' at this stage of the season then she sounds very poor; if such a small colony is also trying to swarm then you do have a problem. What they really need is a box of drawn comb over the super, but if you do not have one then I would put the box of foundation over the top and feed so that they draw it out quickly, assuming that there are enough bees to do it (perhaps just a gallon of syrup - they should be feeding you at this time of the year!). Very difficult to advise without seeing the colony. If you are not a member of your local association then I would suggest that you join; I believe that there is a very good one in York. You say that you are removing queens cells at each inspection. How often have you done this? Are you sure that they are trying to swarm? They may be trying to supersede the poor queen and your actions are preventing this. "Waites Paul" wrote in message news:395389A3.BAC0CB27@york.ac.uk... > Hi all, > > My two hives are on brood & a half which is what I was recommended for > beekeeping in an urban environment. > > This Spring was very wet here in York UK and when I did finally get into > my main hive, it was very damp and much of the stores were mouldy. The > queen had retreated upwards into the "super-brood" area leaving the main > brood box alone. I've replaced all the effected comb in the main brood > chamber with fresh frames of foundation but the workers still haven't > drawn it out and she remains cramped into the smaller top chamber. The > colony is now making plans to swarm judging by the number of queen cells > that I am removing at each inspection. > > I was thinking of putting the larger brood box above the "super" to > encourage her to go back into the main brood box. What do people think. > Do you think that I risk loosing some of the brood that I do have from > the smaller chamber if I swap it over with the brood box. > > Many thanks for any advice. > > Paul. > Article 25707 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!netnews.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!152.163.239.129!portc01.blue.aol.com!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!135.173.83.71!wnfilter1!worldnet-localpost!bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <3953B6E8.91E4A8A5@uidaho.edu> Subject: Re: why reversable bottom boards? Lines: 21 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 22:43:54 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.48.247 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 961800234 12.72.48.247 (Fri, 23 Jun 2000 22:43:54 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 22:43:54 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25707 Typically, one side will have a 3/8" opening height and the other 3/4" or 7/8". I use the 3/4" side in the spring through fall and use the 3/8" in winter. The large opening allows for a lot of air movement in our hot summers. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "Matthew Pollard" wrote in message news:3953B6E8.91E4A8A5@uidaho.edu... > Why the reversable bottom boards? Is one side shorter than the other - > sort of an entrance reducer thing? > -Matthew > Article 25708 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!pitt.edu!newsflash.concordia.ca!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: dansara@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Buckfast & Brother Adam Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 21:09:07 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 20 Message-ID: <8j0jl7$kh7$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <39414493.2EA0D672@btinternet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 212.139.149.121 X-Article-Creation-Date: Fri Jun 23 21:09:07 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 4.01; Windows 98) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x59.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 212.139.149.121 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDdansara Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25708 In article <39414493.2EA0D672@btinternet.com>, Paul Hirons wrote: > I was a bit disappointed on a trip to Buckfast Abbey last year to see > the home of the Buckfast Bee and Brother Adam. Buckfast only has one > book for sale by Brother Adam and the only area the world famous > Buckfast Bee Breeder is acknowledged is in one small hallway area of a > museum which has a mannequin and a photo. I visited Buckfast Abbey last year and I would agree with your comments Paul. Although the Abbey and its grounds were impressive (and worth a look if your passing)I too felt somewhat disappointed. On a positive note, I purchased the book - Beekeeping at Buckfast Abbey written by Brother Adam which I have found most informative and useful. Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25709 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newsfeed.icl.net!colt.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: bee scale Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 07:52:58 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 14 Message-ID: <8j308i$pgf$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <20000624022839.04173.00000129@ng-co1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-221.silicon.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news6.svr.pol.co.uk 961872978 26127 62.136.13.221 (24 Jun 2000 18:56:18 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 24 Jun 2000 18:56:18 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25709 I think that Maxant do one. "LKLarson1" wrote in message news:20000624022839.04173.00000129@ng-co1.aol.com... > I'd like to purchase a bee scale and sure can't find one anywhere. I've check > various bee companies and none have except a company in New York where I > purchased one last year (didn't work) and had to return it--don't think they're > selling them anymore. Any ideas? Thnx. > > Article 25710 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!194.176.220.130!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Martin Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: pollen use by bees? Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 21:09:22 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 13 Message-ID: <8j34ri$e8d$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-44.astatine.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk 961877682 14605 62.136.62.44 (24 Jun 2000 20:14:42 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 24 Jun 2000 20:14:42 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25710 Hi folks. I'm a High school science teacher & I've been asked what bees do with pollen...... I dunno! I know they collect the nectar to make honey But they have pollen bashets on their legs don't they? I also heard that honey can be a homeopathic hayfever cure as the local pollen is in the honey in miniscule amounts. anyone? Thanx martinedwards@bigfoot.com Article 25711 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!135.173.83.20!wnmasters3!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8j34ri$e8d$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk> Subject: Re: pollen use by bees? Lines: 30 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 21:51:13 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.72.51.49 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 961883473 12.72.51.49 (Sat, 24 Jun 2000 21:51:13 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 21:51:13 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25711 Protein source for brood rearing. Local honey never helped my allergies but the idea seems not to hurt sales. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To respond via email, get the "L" out of there "Martin Edwards" wrote in message news:8j34ri$e8d$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk... > Hi folks. I'm a High school science teacher & I've been asked what bees do > with pollen...... I dunno! I know they collect the nectar to make honey But > they have pollen bashets on their legs don't they? I also heard that honey > can be a homeopathic hayfever cure as the local pollen is in the honey in > miniscule amounts. > > anyone? > > Thanx > > martinedwards@bigfoot.com > > Article 25712 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!europa.netcrusader.net!128.230.129.106!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: pollen use by bees? Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 20:52:29 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 31 Message-ID: <39551ee2.32152051@news1.radix.net> References: <8j34ri$e8d$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: p15.a1.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25712 On Sat, 24 Jun 2000 21:09:22 +0100, "Martin Edwards" wrote: >Hi folks. I'm a High school science teacher & I've been asked what bees do >with pollen...... I dunno! Protein! > I know they collect the nectar to make honey But >they have pollen bashets on their legs don't they? Yes. > I also heard that honey >can be a homeopathic hayfever cure as the local pollen is in the honey in >miniscule amounts. True. > >anyone? > >Thanx > Your welcome. >martinedwards@bigfoot.com > > Greg the beekeep Article 25713 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bmed137@aol.com (Bev Medcalf) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Quick Question Lines: 12 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 22 Jun 2000 05:45:31 GMT References: <8i1tbc$434c$1@newssvr05-en0.news.prodigy.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000622014531.06307.00000122@ng-bj1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25713 Sorry for jumping in a little late, but I noticed that no one pointed out that there is a large market of beekeepers that rent out hives to farmers for pollination purposes. They deliver the hives to the fields at the proper time for pollination and then move the hives to other fields after the crops are pollinated. This is especially done in blueberry fields .> I bet them that it was probably possible for a farmer/grower to purchase bees >for the purpose of pollination for his/her crops--rather than just relying >on nature to provide them. Article 25714 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!paloalto-snf1.gtei.net!news.gtei.net!webtv.net!not-for-mail From: MVP-13@webtv.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: BEES IN OLD HOUSE HOW CAN I GET THEM OUT???? Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 01:25:44 -0400 (EDT) Organization: WebTV Subscriber Lines: 20 Message-ID: <21689-3951A358-74@storefull-251.iap.bryant.webtv.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAuAhUAiJo7YuQMjXbC8FvjFm0fHUV1ZSQCFQCNS4twIShLsVOiSmhYxYlj8yhg2Q== Content-Disposition: Inline Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25714 Hi i have a friend who has a old farm house with honeybees inbetween the wall boards. is there a way i can get them out with out having to end up killing them? Right now i have a hive body placed over there entrants out side where they get in at, so now they have to go through the hive body to get in the house wall boards. hoping they will make that hive body there home. I placed sugar water on to of the hive body and i also placed one frame of cone in the hive body hoping this will get them to started on building up and staying in the hive body. I was thinking maybe if i get a new Queen and put her in the hive body that this would bring the bees out into the hive body and maybe bring there Queen out so that i can trap it. the other thing i was thinking was maybe there is something i could put over the hole they go in at and hook it to my hive body so they can leave there nest but not get back in and have to stay in the hive body. One more thing i was thinking was maybe i could use some bee go to force the bees in the hive body. My main goal is to save as much bees as i can and if i don't get there Queen i would get a new Queen for the bees. Does anyone have any ideas on what i can do please post or e-mail me and let me know. Thanks for you time and help..... Article 25715 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!grey.lambton.on.ca!not-for-mail From: Mark Veltman Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: extractor maintenance Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 08:45:45 -0400 Organization: Information Technology, Lambton College Lines: 23 Message-ID: <39520A79.B87D4856@lambton.on.ca> References: <8irp1n$jm9$1@nnrp2.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 192.139.190.164 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25715 I throw my electric 2 frame on the back of the truck and take it to the pressure car wash to give it a good cleaning. craig1966@my-deja.com wrote: > I'm new to beekeeping and got hold of a basic > extractor. It's nothing fancy; actually it is a > 20 gallon heavy duty garbage can (gray plastic) > with a metal type basket the frames set in (holds > 3 deep or 6 shallow). It has a 1 1/2 inch gate > valve at the base and is hand cranked. It came > from an estate auction and needs a good cleaning > up. I'm hoping to extract my first ever honey > this year and want to make sure I clean the > extractor properly. Any suggestions? Any > cleaning products to avoid? Any advice would be > appreciated. > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Before you buy. Article 25716 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.qis.net!feed1.news.rcn.net!rcn!chnws02.mediaone.net!chnws05.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.8.70!typhoon.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39521E39.5EC4CFAC@riverace.com> From: Steve Huston Organization: Riverace Corporation X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Newbie question - Feed mixture References: <9me45.51922$cH1.463373@typhoon.austin.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 24 Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 14:10:02 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.91.48.64 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: typhoon.ne.mediaone.net 961683002 24.91.48.64 (Thu, 22 Jun 2000 10:10:02 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 10:10:02 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25716 a (volume). 5lbs sugar in a gallon bottle, then fill up with water, shake, and top off with water, is about right. -Steve No1 wrote: > > Here's a question: What does the 1:1 mixture for feeding sugar syrup imply? > a) 1 part sugar to 1 part water (by volume) > or > b) 1 part sugar to 1 part water (by weight) > or > c) 1 pound sugar to 1 gallon water > > Thanks for your reply, > Robert - a bee-ginner -- Steve Huston Riverace Corporation Email: shuston@riverace.com http://www.riverace.com ACE Kits, Support, Consulting (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185 Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html Article 25717 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!feed1.news.rcn.net!rcn!chnws02.mediaone.net!chnws05.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.8.70!typhoon.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39521EA3.1DDFF9CD@riverace.com> From: Steve Huston Organization: Riverace Corporation X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Cross combs References: <20000621222225.04835.00000017@ng-fg1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 24 Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 14:11:48 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.91.48.64 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: typhoon.ne.mediaone.net 961683108 24.91.48.64 (Thu, 22 Jun 2000 10:11:48 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 10:11:48 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25717 If you are starting with foundation, put 10 frames in, tight together. If there's a good flow on, they'll draw it straight. Once you have drawn combs and have extracted them, you can put 9 in the super and space them evenly. -Steve Blue Taz37 wrote: > > This is something I don't understand, I place new foundation in my super about > month ago and check on it today. The worker build comb upside down like a > Rollorcoast and it was kind like angle 10 degree off but, not straight along > the foundation. > Does I have retard Engineer bees? This happen on Four frame of Nine frame > Super. > I can understand that happen if you forget to put foundation in. > Tim -- Steve Huston Riverace Corporation Email: shuston@riverace.com http://www.riverace.com ACE Kits, Support, Consulting (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185 Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html Article 25718 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!chnws02.mediaone.net!chnws05.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.8.70!typhoon.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39521F48.5E34ACA@riverace.com> From: Steve Huston Organization: Riverace Corporation X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: WAX: What to do with References: <20000622005352.17364.00000248@ng-fp1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 22 Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 14:14:33 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.91.48.64 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: typhoon.ne.mediaone.net 961683273 24.91.48.64 (Thu, 22 Jun 2000 10:14:33 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 10:14:33 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25718 Gwongdung wrote: > > Hello ! > I'm a new beekeeper, and each time I check my hive there is burr comb to > scrape. What do you do with this -- is there a good way to store the wax > through the season until I have enough to do something with ? Bring a bucket with you when you work the hives, and put the scraped wax in it. > Are there any > articles on how to render beeswax online ? Probably, but I don't know... try altavista or google. -Steve -- Steve Huston Riverace Corporation Email: shuston@riverace.com http://www.riverace.com ACE Kits, Support, Consulting (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185 Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html Article 25719 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: wskriba@aol.com (WSkriba) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Swarm combining with existing colony Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 22 Jun 2000 15:22:25 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000622112225.13989.00000025@ng-ch1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25719 I captured an average size swarm last nite here in Central Michigan. I have 5 colonies and one of which was weaker than the rest. I placed a queen excluder over the weak swarm with newspaper on top of that and placed the deep brood box containing the captured swarm over top of this. I bored a hole in the top brood chamber and plan on trying a 2 queen operation. Can anyone give me the pros and cons of such, and any suggestions of things that I might have missed. Thanks Bill Skriba Article 25720 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.via.net!headwall.stanford.edu!unlnews.unl.edu!newsfeed.ksu.edu!nntp.ksu.edu!news.okstate.edu!not-for-mail From: Gary Johns Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Newbie question - Feed mixture Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 10:14:22 -0500 Organization: Oklahoma State University Lines: 21 Message-ID: <39522D4E.DAD42077@okstate.edu> References: <9me45.51922$cH1.463373@typhoon.austin.rr.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: x8b4e76e3.dhcp.okstate.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25720 Robert, The answer issssss: > b) 1 part sugar to 1 part water (by weight) I use 2 quarts (dry measure) of sugar to 2 quarts (liquid measure) of water. Really just pour 2 quarts of sugar into a mixing bowl and boil 2 quarts of water, stir in sugar when water is at rolling boil (after turning the flame off!) :). Makes about 3/4 gallon of feed and works well in a division board feeder. You can split this any way you want: pint to pint, gallon to gallon, etc. I've also used 2 parts sugar to 1 part water. Really good when you need to feed them for winter. I finally settled on 1 1/2 parts sugar to 1 part water as my "normal" winter feed. BUT, I am in a sub tropical area (Oklahoma) and my winters are not as severe as say Ontario, Canada or elsewhere. Good luck! > > Article 25721 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!headwall.stanford.edu!unlnews.unl.edu!newsfeed.ksu.edu!nntp.ksu.edu!news.okstate.edu!not-for-mail From: Gary Johns Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: WAX: What to do with Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 11:39:53 -0500 Organization: Oklahoma State University Lines: 56 Message-ID: <39524159.9481A611@okstate.edu> References: <20000622005352.17364.00000248@ng-fp1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: x8b4e76e3.dhcp.okstate.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25721 Ed, These instructions are from another list I belong to. They work well, but can be a little time consuming. I only use cappings wax. A double boiler and candy thermometer are essential because you don't want to overheat the wax (I try to never exceed 180 degrees F). Overheated wax darkens quickly from the rich golden and amber shades into an unattractive olive brown. Honey itself when overheated for too long breaks down into constituents that don't re-combine into the familiar and tasty flavor of honey so it's crucial that you work with low temperatures. If you are working with small quantities, use a mixture ratio of about 2 parts water to one part beeswax. Once the water in the double boiler reaches the boiling point, turn the heat back about a third. When the wax begins to melt, back the heat off another third. At this point assuming the mass of wax has liquefied let it stabilize for a few minutes, that is, let it continue to warm but don't stir it. This will have the effect of separating any foreign matter that might have been in suspension and letting it settle on the bottom of the boiler. Remove the water and wax container from the outer boiler and let it cool. The beeswax will float at the top of the mixture and by virtue of percentages you will find that it is relatively clean and probably covered with a sticky scum. Wash the mass of wax under lukewarm running tap water. Depending on your degree of anality, the next step is optional but I must confess that I have always performed this step several times per batch minimum. The color and quality of my candles reflected this extra care. Starting with what could be called reasonably clean beeswax, place the chunks into the inner boiler again but do not add any water. Melt as before and let it stabilize for about 15 minutes. Next, the best tip I can offer to newbie candlemakers: strain the melted wax through panty hose. I have not run across another material that works as well. Forget using cheesecloth unless you're a card carrying masochist. Make yourself a strainer by cutting both ends off of one of those big V-8 tin cans, stretch one leg of the pantyhose (NO HOLES in the material allowed or else, don't even ask how I know this!!!!) over the opening, repeat this with the other panty hose leg and secure by surrounding with a large rubber band. You will now have what appears to be a little butterfly net with a tin entrance hall. Hold this apparatus over the target container (I use a plastic bucket with a larger top diameter than bottom for ease of removal once it hardens) and pour the hot liquid wax slowly and carefully through the strainer. The can will heat up so be careful not to drop it in the straining process. The propolis, wood frame slivers, bee heads and legs and will stay in the panty hose. I do this about three times and then pronounce the wax as worthy of candle making (Once is good enough for cappings wax). Throw the pantyhose/detritus away after about 5 strainings or when it will no longer pass the wax through. Gary J. Article 25722 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Cross combs Lines: 13 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 23 Jun 2000 00:13:25 GMT References: <39521EA3.1DDFF9CD@riverace.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000622201325.02232.00002140@ng-fj1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25722 >Once you have drawn combs and have extracted them, you can put 9 in the >super and space them evenly. > >-Steve > I don't know if I want to extracted the super with flaw combs. Might just leave up to the brood chamber as for food. I lift one frame up and saw the comb done damage which I didn't know I broke it and honey running down the brood chamber. I know I've done make a mess. Later, I've seen bee drag out dead bee were I drown it by honey. I feld bad about it. I was fear that I might have too much gap in it and they will make a burr comb in between. Right now it is 1/2 gap. Tim Article 25723 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: ljerger@aol.com (LJerger) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: "What do I do......." Lines: 7 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 23 Jun 2000 10:10:59 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com X-Newsreader: Session Scheduler Message-ID: <20000623061059.01140.00000011@nso-fy.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25723 Regarding the "what do I do with my honey posting". If anyone who has that problem lives within an hour of Terre Haute, IN, I'd be happy to exchange rudimentary equipment (airlocks, corboys and such) and lessons in mead making for raw material i.e. honey. Lee Article 25724 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!europa.netcrusader.net!63.208.208.143!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp3.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <39534036.94676D70@together.net> From: Michael Palmer Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Organization: French Hill Apiaries X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-DIAL (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: bears and bacon and electricity References: <20000621222927.04835.00000018@ng-fg1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 12 Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 06:47:18 -0400 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.13.202.67 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp3.onemain.com 961757110 208.13.202.67 (Fri, 23 Jun 2000 06:45:10 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 06:45:10 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25724 Shoot one bear, another will eventually come back. Build a good electric fence, and the problem is done with. Blue Taz37 wrote: > Hum, Why not shoot the bear and roll some bacon on some meat to kill Wild > taste and fry it with Electrical circuit? To add more flavor, dip it with > Honey. That way no bear will be coming back and knew it was a killing field. > LOL Article 25725 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp2.deja.com!nnrp2.deja.com!not-for-mail From: hcampb@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: BEES IN OLD HOUSE HOW CAN I GET THEM OUT???? Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:06:06 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 82 Message-ID: <8ivgav$7nk$1@nnrp2.deja.com> References: <21689-3951A358-74@storefull-251.iap.bryant.webtv.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: iw8.deja.com X-Trace: nnrp2.deja.com 961758367 7924 10.12.1.135 (23 Jun 2000 11:06:07 GMT) X-Complaints-To: usenet@deja.com NNTP-Posting-Date: 23 Jun 2000 11:06:07 GMT X-Article-Creation-Date: Thu Jun 22 19:09:12 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; AOL 5.0; Windows 98; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x60.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 152.163.201.58 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25725 Your hive box plan will only work if you are able to limit the wall bees to one exit point. Then, if you are able to close up all other entrances and exits, you can make the exit one- way by making a funnel out of regular window screen. I use duct tape and wrap the screen around a short piece of 1" PVC pipe. I use a pencil to shape the small end and remove about a half inch of the cross wires so bees can squeeze through going out, but can't go back. Then place your new hive box, with a new queen in it, so its entrance is close to the one way exit. After 5 to 8 weeks your new hive will be going strong. Then you can remove the funnel and your bees will go back in and rob the honey. This is usually done in a day so then you are ready to move your hive wherever you want it. Meanwhile the queen inside the wall will either die from lack of food, or in rare cases will move out and start an outside hive on the face of your hive box. If that does happen you get the bonus of an extra queen. That's the only way I know to do it, short of removing boards and taking them out. But that's a messy procedure and usually causes a high casualty rate among the bees. Forget the bee-go or making them go through the new hive body. Let me know if you have any other questions. Sincerely, Herb In article <21689-3951A358-74@storefull- 251.iap.bryant.webtv.net>, MVP-13@webtv.net wrote: > Hi i have a friend who has a old farm house with honeybees inbetween the > wall boards. is there a way i can get them out with out having to end up > killing them? Right now i have a hive body placed over there entrants > out side where they get in at, so now they have to go through the hive > body to get in the house wall boards. hoping they will make that hive > body there home. I placed sugar water on to of the hive body and i also > placed one frame of cone in the hive body hoping this will get them to > started on building up and staying in the hive body. I was thinking > maybe if i get a new Queen and put her in the hive body that this would > bring the bees out into the hive body and maybe bring there Queen out so > that i can trap it. the other thing i was thinking was maybe there is > something i could put over the hole they go in at and hook it to my > hive body so they can leave there nest but not get back in and have to > stay in the hive body. One more thing i was thinking was maybe i could > use some bee go to force the bees in the hive body. My main goal is to > save as much bees as i can and if i don't get there Queen i would get a > new Queen for the bees. Does anyone have any ideas on what i can do > please post or e-mail me and let me know. Thanks for you time and > help..... > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25726 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.qis.net!feed1.news.rcn.net!rcn!not-for-mail From: Eric Albers Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Bee Information ... Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 09:13:46 -0400 Lines: 27 Message-ID: <3953628A.57C418B1@lplizard.com> Reply-To: ealbers@lplizard.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: d2azZAEe2r3QyhvsPErPyYfalMmyuebIguQUHWor/Bg= X-Complaints-To: abuse@rcn.com NNTP-Posting-Date: 23 Jun 2000 13:13:26 GMT X-Accept-Language: en X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25726 I've been collecting a lot of info on bees and hives, but I'm trying to find out how much water a bee needs per day... I know it varies with temperature, but at the 'average' temperature, how much water does a bee consume? Also, how much honey does a bee eat? If there is a FAQ with these answers, please email me directly with it, I looked at available FAQ's and didn't find this information... Thanks! Eric Albers -- ealbers@lplizard.com www.lplizard.com 301-963-8230 Encryption Perl Script: #!/bin/perl -sp0777i Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Just for fun - I published it Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 00:00:11 +0100 Organization: BT Internet Lines: 3 Message-ID: <8j3ecg$k72$1@plutonium.btinternet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: host62-6-89-122.btinternet.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25727 http://www.theindustriousbee.fsnet.co.uk/ Article 25728 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!skynet.be!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!not-for-mail From: "Pamela Buckle" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: BEES IN OLD HOUSE HOW CAN I GET THEM OUT???? Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 20:35:57 +0100 Organization: UUNET WorldCom server (post doesn't reflect views of UUNET WorldCom Lines: 58 Message-ID: <8j0nj8$oot$1@lure.pipex.net> References: <21689-3951A358-74@storefull-251.iap.bryant.webtv.net> <8c45ls4rp0d2ni81de6cnnbmtdpp2n2eip@4ax.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: userds86.uk.uudial.com X-Trace: lure.pipex.net 961798568 25373 62.188.6.192 (23 Jun 2000 22:16:08 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uk.uu.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 23 Jun 2000 22:16:08 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25728 Charlie Kroeger wrote in message news:8c45ls4rp0d2ni81de6cnnbmtdpp2n2eip@4ax.com... > >Hi i have a friend who has a old farm house with honeybees inbetween the > >wall boards. is there a way i can get them out with out having to end up > >killing them? > > Yes, simple, remove the wall boards one by one until the hive is completely > exposed, with a long bread knife, remove all the comb to plenty of 5 gal > buckets. > > Plan of action: IF YOU FIND THE QUEEN: Put her in a box with her natural > comb that includes brood and stores. > > I have a special Langstroth box for supporting natural comb. Inside are two > parallel rows of 3/8 inch wooden dowels on 1 inch centers. The dowel strips > are secured by screws that can be moved closer or further apart as need be. > The natural comb is securely held between the dowel "teeth" at a close > proximity to natural spacing, but prevented from touching. When the bees > settle in for the night, (the flyers will go to the queen, the nurse bees will > need to be brushed in) but by night they should all be inside. Then, close > them up and they're ready for moving. > > If the move is less than say, two miles, put a bunch of grass and chewable > obstacles in the entrance, something that will take them a day or two to chew > through. After that they'll see their new entrance as home. Lastly, it is > tricky to expect a hive like this to build up new foundation. It is better if > you can add a box above them that contains frames with drawn comb, supposedly > with a few enticements like stores and brood included. > > IF YOU DON'T FIND THE QUEEN: You will probably not find the queen during all > the destruction. If that occurs you won't save many bees either. You may bag > up enough to join with a weak hive. You can however extract the honey (by > hand) Don't forget to wear your rubber gloves when squeezing the combs, bee > bodies (with stingers) trapped in the combs can still sting. The bee may be > dead but the apparatus still works. > > Lastly, replace the boards and seal up the old entrance; receive hefty cheque > from grateful property owner. > > C.K. Article 25729 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.vt.edu!newspump.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!colt.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Cross combs Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 23:11:01 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 17 Message-ID: <8j0o9l$jtd$4@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> References: <20000621222225.04835.00000017@ng-fg1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-43.flonase.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: news6.svr.pol.co.uk 961799285 20397 62.136.95.43 (23 Jun 2000 22:28:05 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 23 Jun 2000 22:28:05 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25729 Maximum spacing for foundation is 1 5/8" - any more than that and the bees ignore it and do their own thing! "Blue Taz37" wrote in message news:20000621222225.04835.00000017@ng-fg1.aol.com... > This is something I don't understand, I place new foundation in my super about > month ago and check on it today. The worker build comb upside down like a > Rollorcoast and it was kind like angle 10 degree off but, not straight along > the foundation. > Does I have retard Engineer bees? This happen on Four frame of Nine frame > Super. > I can understand that happen if you forget to put foundation in. > Tim Article 25730 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!gandboss.demon.co.uk!not-for-mail From: "Graham Law" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Bee Stinging Photo Required please Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 19:14:56 +0100 Message-ID: <961956644.10838.0.nnrp-09.c2de24d3@news.demon.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: gandboss.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: gandboss.demon.co.uk:194.222.36.211 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 961956644 nnrp-09:10838 NO-IDENT gandboss.demon.co.uk:194.222.36.211 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0032_01BFDED9.A5E9DDA0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Lines: 78 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25730 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BFDED9.A5E9DDA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi all, A local hospital to me is intending to set up a site offering advice on = anaphylaxis and hyper sensitivity and the specialist concerned has = contacted myself as a local beekeeper looking for a good close up = picture of a bee stinging. =20 =20 Can anyone supply? =20 Any help gratefully received and suitable acknowledgment will be given. Thanks Graham Law Leicestershire=20 UK... Email:=20 Graham@gandboss.demon.co.uk Web http://www.gandboss.demon.co.uk/ Thanks Graham ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BFDED9.A5E9DDA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi all,
 
A local hospital to me is = intending to set up=20 a site offering advice on anaphylaxis and hyper sensitivity and the = specialist=20 concerned has contacted myself as a local beekeeper looking for a good = close=20 up picture of a bee stinging. 
 
Can anyone supply?
 
Any help gratefully received and = suitable=20 acknowledgment will be given.
 
Thanks
Graham Law
Leicestershire =
UK...
 
Email:
Graham@gandboss.demon.co.uk
 
Web
http://www.gandboss.demon.co.uk= /
Thanks
Graham
------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BFDED9.A5E9DDA0-- Article 25731 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!cnn.nas.nasa.gov!news.hawaii.edu!not-for-mail From: "skohler" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Stingless Bees? Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 12:59:27 -0700 Organization: University of Hawaii Lines: 15 Message-ID: <8j62ul$2a4$1@news.hawaii.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: mo13.housing.hawaii.edu X-Trace: news.hawaii.edu 961974037 2372 128.171.186.13 (25 Jun 2000 23:00:37 GMT) X-Complaints-To: usenet@hawaii.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 25 Jun 2000 23:00:37 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25731 Someone was trying to tell me that a strain of stingless honeybee had been bred, and was occasionally available. Any truth to this statement? If so, where do I place an order? I don't have a bee sting phobia...I am considering using honeybees as a food organism for Old World chameleons (Chamaeleo spp.). They are reputed to be nutritious, since they are covered in pollen. I'd even considered placing a couple of hive boxes near the the lizard screen (1/2" x 1/4" vinyl coated) enclosures, planting bee-seducing flowers in the enclosures, and allowing the insects to enter the cages. The aboreal reptiles would have a low maintenance means of gaining a live food snack. Thoughts? In case you couldn't tell, I'm a honeybee newbie (but a herptological whiz). Thanks! Steve K. Article 25732 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!newshub2.rdc1.sfba.home.com!news.home.com!news1.rdc1.mb.home.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Greg" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: To swarm or not to Swarm Lines: 14 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 02:54:12 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.66.91.109 X-Complaints-To: abuse@home.net X-Trace: news1.rdc1.mb.home.com 961988052 24.66.91.109 (Sun, 25 Jun 2000 19:54:12 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 19:54:12 PDT Organization: @Home Network Canada Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25732 Howdy all, So I'm pretty sure I've lost a queen in one of my hives. Today the hive seemed to swarm, and then just returned to the hive. It never gathered one a nearby tree or anything. My question is: has a new queen hatched and went on her mating flight?? Do workers go for a flight when the queen does?? Thanks to everyone who replies, Greg Article 25733 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: bee scale Lines: 6 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 24 Jun 2000 06:28:39 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000624022839.04173.00000129@ng-co1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25733 I'd like to purchase a bee scale and sure can't find one anywhere. I've check various bee companies and none have except a company in New York where I purchased one last year (didn't work) and had to return it--don't think they're selling them anymore. Any ideas? Thnx. Article 25734 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!newshub2.rdc1.sfba.home.com!news.home.com!newsfeed.concentric.net!newsfeed.ozemail.com.au!ozemail.com.au!not-for-mail Message-ID: <395478D6.DDA7D4A8@ozemail.com.au> From: Ian Moore X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Bee nutrition Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 7 NNTP-Posting-Host: sltoo52p58.ozemail.com.au X-Trace: ozemail.com.au 961837290 203.108.197.208 (Sat, 24 Jun 2000 19:01:30 EST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 19:01:30 EST Organization: OzEmail Ltd, Australia Distribution: world Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 19:01:10 +1000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25734 Hello I am looking for a good source of Fumagilin (dieyclohexamine) or any information on nutrition Thanks Ian Moore ianrmoore@ozemail.com.au Article 25735 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!ptdnetS!newsgate.ptd.net!nnrp1.ptd.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Royal W. Draper" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8j51r3$i3q$1@neptunium.btinternet.com> Subject: Re: Properties of Beeswax Lines: 17 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 14:28:35 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.186.129.106 X-Complaints-To: abuse@ptd.net X-Trace: nnrp1.ptd.net 962029715 204.186.129.106 (Mon, 26 Jun 2000 10:28:35 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 10:28:35 EDT Organization: PenTeleData http://www.ptd.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25735 There is a great link to a website in Russia on our website, that will give you highly detailed info on beeswax. www.draperbee.com Richard Smith wrote in message news:8j51r3$i3q$1@neptunium.btinternet.com... > In september I will be starting a third year engineering university project > which will involve trying to extrude beeswax candles. Does anybody have any > information on the properties of beeswax? > > thanks > > Article 25736 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!newsfeed.cwix.com!news-feed1.eu.concert.net!news-feed1.de1.concert.net!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!dialup-lbb-0105.nts-online.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Recent AHB show on PBS Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 14:33:31 -0500 Lines: 55 Message-ID: Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup-lbb-0105.nts-online.net (216.167.131.105) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 962048015 45216 216.167.131.105 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25736 Was it just our local station (Amarillo, TX) or was a recent show on AHB in southern Arizona shown on PBS nationally? There were spokespersons from the ARS at Tucson and some shots of researchers picking thousands of stingers out of dead pets, and a dramatic example of what color clothing to wear around Africanized bees. I was surprised that Fox television didn't put that on prime time. The horror the horror...Did anyone else see this show? I was just curious that it didn't generate any post... (well ok it did generate one) There was some youngish person (35ish) at the end lending authority to this new concern perpetrated by a certain organization that has a lot of Ted Turner's money, who himself is deeply concerned about honey bees taking all the nectar from the local plants so that local pollinators have nothing, and are therefore "disappearing." I find it odd that nothing is ever mentioned about the widespread use of insecticides in suburbia that itself was once the home of "local pollinators" or insecticides sprayed from planes on large fields that were once insect habitat; you might also remember that these habitats may not support local pollinators if all that's growing there is "chem" lawns or a commercial crop that doesn't produce nectar anyway. Of course honey bees don't suffer from these practices either, they're doing fine. I have a couple of bee hives in my back garden for amusement and I notice a very ample and busy amount of different "local pollinators" working a largish patch of horse mint and Thai basil near one of these hives. The bees are all flying off in clouds somewhere else, not fighting and killing the locals over this source of pollen and nectar as you might expect. (after hearing the experts) In fact I've never seen honeybees pushing a local pollinator out of a cactus blossom yet; the design of a 'mesquite' blossom will accommodate a lot of interested visitors, that can be on the same blossom at the same time. The amount of nectar available to those visitors has more to do with the weather than the honeybee. Also, it has been my observations that the 'local pollinators' are more aggressive and larger (in general) than the honeybees, if they're even seen together, plus the locals don't save nectar in very impressive amounts, pollen maybe, but the local pollinator you see this year will not be the same one next. In short, around here, (not on Ted's ranch) there always seems to be enough for everyone, including the beekeeper. I don't understand this new business of blaming honey bees for the disappearance of local pollinators. In my opinion we live in much the same time now as Victorians who were long on energy, but short on knowledge; consequently, they did a lot of damage while thinking they were improving things. I'm not suggesting that things haven't improved since Victorian times, but there is this new meddling element with money that fixates on some goofy assumption and then starts an organization to prove its claims. Of course the people who get a 'job' with these organizations want to keep their jobs, and they know what their founder or sponsor wants to hear. The consequence of all that is more junk science, and expose' for network television. Beware of the big lie hidden in a little truth. C.K. Article 25737 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.cs.com!not-for-mail From: texasdrone@cs.combees (Robert Williamson) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: To swarm or not to Swarm Lines: 25 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.cs.com X-Admin: news@cs.com Date: 26 Jun 2000 19:41:50 GMT References: Organization: CompuServe (http://www.compuserve.com/) Message-ID: <20000626154150.05663.00001070@ng-ft1.news.cs.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25737 >Howdy all, > >So I'm pretty sure I've lost a queen in one of my hives. Today the hive >seemed to swarm, and then just returned to the hive. It never gathered one a >nearby tree or anything. > >My question is: has a new queen hatched and went on her mating flight?? Do >workers go for a flight when the queen does?? > >Thanks to everyone who replies, > >Greg > > It could be that the hive was prepared to swarm, but the old queen was unable to fly.I've seen that many times. I've also watched them swarm to a tree and an hour later return to the hive.Probably the same cause in either case. Robert Williamson Southeast Texas Honey Co. P.O. Box 176 Vidor, Tx. 77670 " A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any prince" Article 25738 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!newsswitch.lcs.mit.edu!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!newscore.gigabell.net!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!dialup-lbb-0105.nts-online.NET!not-for-mail From: Charlie Kroeger Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stingless Bees? Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 14:42:06 -0500 Lines: 8 Message-ID: References: <8j62ul$2a4$1@news.hawaii.edu> Reply-To: ckrogrr@frankensteinface.com NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup-lbb-0105.nts-online.net (216.167.131.105) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: fu-berlin.de 962048526 45216 216.167.131.105 (16 [35320]) X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.8/32.548 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25738 >Someone was trying to tell me that a strain of stingless honeybee had >been bred, and was occasionally available. Any truth to this statement? The Cape bee, but it hasn't been bred, it was there before humans. You don't need to worry about a queen either, they'll roll their own. What are you waiting for? C.K. Article 25739 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!news.lightlink.com!skynet.be!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!intgwpad.nntp.telstra.net!news1.optus.net.au!optus!news.uwa.edu.au!not-for-mail From: David Watson Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stingless Bees? Date: 27 Jun 2000 00:41:43 GMT Organization: The University of Western Australia Lines: 19 Message-ID: <8j8t87$eei$1@enyo.uwa.edu.au> References: <8j62ul$2a4$1@news.hawaii.edu> X-Trace: enyo.uwa.edu.au 962066503 14802 130.116.144.65 (27 Jun 2000 00:41:43 GMT) X-Complaints-To: usenet@news.uwa.edu.au User-Agent: tin/1.4.1-19991201 ("Polish") (UNIX) (SunOS/5.5.1 (sun4u)) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25739 skohler wrote: : Someone was trying to tell me that a strain of stingless honeybee had : been bred, and was occasionally available. Any truth to this statement? If : so, where do I place an order? : I don't have a bee sting phobia...I am considering using honeybees as a : food organism for Old World chameleons (Chamaeleo spp.). They are reputed : to be nutritious, since they are covered in pollen. I'd even considered : placing a couple of hive boxes near the the lizard screen (1/2" x 1/4" vinyl : coated) enclosures, planting bee-seducing flowers in the enclosures, and : allowing the insects to enter the cages. The aboreal reptiles would have a : low maintenance means of gaining a live food snack. Thoughts? In case you : couldn't tell, I'm a honeybee newbie (but a herptological whiz). Thanks! Australia has several types of native stingless bees, see http://www.zeta.org.au/~anbrc/ -- Dave Watson Article 25740 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!news.maxwell.syr.edu!xmission!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!newsfeed1.earthlink.net!newsfeed2.earthlink.net!newsfeed.earthlink.net!cyclone-west.rr.com!news.rr.com|news-west.rr.com!cyclone-east.rr.com!news.rr.com!news-east.rr.com!cyclone.kc.rr.com!news.kc.rr.com!typhoon.kc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: zedxmn@speedyinternet.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: - Learn how to SPEED UP your INTERNET connection by 70-100% for FREE! Lines: 6 Message-ID: <09U55.102777$m5.59849@typhoon.kc.rr.com> Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 02:17:32 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.163.158.45 X-Complaints-To: abuse@rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.kc.rr.com 962072252 24.163.158.45 (Mon, 26 Jun 2000 21:17:32 CDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 21:17:32 CDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25740 Hey, Sign up at Netsetter (for free!), and it will install some free software that will speed up you Internet connection by 100%! It helped me a lot with my connection! I now download a lot faster than before, and get lower pings in games, which eliminates lag! Read more about it on their site if you doubt it! Get it here: http://speedyinternet.cjb.net Article 25741 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: Pete Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Ventilation with migratory covers? Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 00:38:42 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 38 Message-ID: <8j8t2g$8nk$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.152.32.138 X-Article-Creation-Date: Tue Jun 27 00:38:42 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.7 [en]C-CCK-MCD snapN45b1 (Win95; U) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x72.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 216.152.32.138 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDhrogers000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25741 > "Rodney Isom" wrote: > I live in Alabama & I have a couple of hives with inner covers / >telescoping outer covers and a couple of hives with migratory covers. >I know that I can put something under the rear of the outer covers to >prop them open a little & allow extra ventilation when it gets hot, but >can you also do this with migratory covers? Will this cause the bees >to start using that opening to come & go and if so, is that a problem? > Or will it allow rain into the hive? Or cause any other problems I'm >not aware of? And is it really necessary to provide extra ventilation >in this manner? I> just get a little nervous on those hot days when it >looks like nearly all the bees in the hive are hanging out on the >front....can it get so hot inside that the comb melts? > Rodney Isom ************************************************************ Howdy Rodney -- I, too, believe in circulation through the hive in hot weather. I put a small stick (match stick) under the migratory cover in the front center. The opening is too small for bees to go through to rob or start another entrance, but will allow air to circulate throughout the hive. Of course the bees propolize a lot of the opening which they do not need. I have not have combs melt from the hear, but I suppose it might be possible. Anyone else ??? Pete So much to learn - So little time ! ************************************************** Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25742 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: pollen use by bees? Lines: 11 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 25 Jun 2000 11:32:31 GMT References: <8j34ri$e8d$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000625073231.25772.00000446@ng-fl1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25742 Pollen is their source of protiens and some lipids. The allergy evidence is anecdotal and even then there is an argument as to if it is the pollen or the flavones. Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 25743 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!nntp.frontiernet.net!nntp.gctr.net!feeder.via.net!news.he.net!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!cnn.nas.nasa.gov!news.hawaii.edu!not-for-mail From: "skohler" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stingless Bees? Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 17:29:14 -0700 Organization: University of Hawaii Lines: 16 Message-ID: <8j974l$h6l$1@news.hawaii.edu> References: <8j62ul$2a4$1@news.hawaii.edu> <8j8t87$eei$1@enyo.uwa.edu.au> NNTP-Posting-Host: mo13.housing.hawaii.edu X-Trace: news.hawaii.edu 962076629 17621 128.171.186.13 (27 Jun 2000 03:30:29 GMT) X-Complaints-To: usenet@hawaii.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 27 Jun 2000 03:30:29 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25743 Thanks for the help. Do these guys actually send queens/ starter cultures out of Australia? Steve K. David Watson wrote in message news:8j8t87$eei$1@enyo.uwa.edu.au... > > Australia has several types of native stingless bees, see > > http://www.zeta.org.au/~anbrc/ > > -- > Dave Watson Article 25744 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!135.173.83.20!wnmasters3!bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <7DZ55.1674$tg2.32953@news2-win.server.ntlworld.com> Subject: Re: Warming honey before filtering Lines: 35 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:03:59 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.74.0.205 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 962132639 12.74.0.205 (Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:03:59 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:03:59 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25744 Put the tub in your vehicle and park it in the sun. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there "Graham Read" wrote in message news:7DZ55.1674$tg2.32953@news2-win.server.ntlworld.com... > Hi > > I've got about 90lb of honey sitting in a plastic tub (with a lid). I've > often had trouble filtering the honey - the filters get bunged up so quick > as to be almost useless. Someone suggested that I should warm the honey > first - that way it'll run much better (As I usually filtered on a warm > (20 - 22C) day I assumed that was sufficient). > > Any ideas on how to warm the honey - bearing in mind I'd rather not pour the > honey out of the plastic tub first. > > One suggestion was to put a 60w light bulb under the tub and leave for a > couple of days - has anyone tried this ?, and if so did it work, what gap > did you leave below the tub. I don't want to melt the plastic ! > > Any other ideas ? > > Graham > > Article 25745 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stingless Bees? Lines: 38 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 27 Jun 2000 17:41:22 GMT References: <8j974l$h6l$1@news.hawaii.edu> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000627134122.01256.00000066@ng-fl1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25745 > Thanks for the help. Do these guys actually send queens/ starter >cultures out of Australia? It's been illegal for several decades to import bees, Steve. It's thought that illegal importation is the cause of our varroa mite (major parasite) problem. Years ago, I heard a rumor that a German queen breeder bred a honeybee that would not sting. Just as he was getting ready to market his queens, they had a period of nectar dearth, and his bees were robbed out by other bees. I don't know if the story is true, but I do know that any bee that stores honey is quite vulnerable to preditors, and it needs to be able to defend its treasure. Why do your bees have to be stingless? I have anoles around my beehives all the time. I know they eat some bees, and probably get stung at times. It doesn't seem to affect them. They even run into the hives. Once in awile I find a mummified one in the hive, and I suppose it got them riled up enough to give it multiple stings. You can get gentle European honeybees from a local bee breeder where you are. They aren't stingless, but gentle enough for humans to handle without danger, if you are armed with a little knowledge and some protection. The questions you ask indicate that you are totally new to the field. You might read a good bee book or visit Keith Delaplane's excellent honeybee tutorial online. http://www.ces.uga.edu/pubcd/b1045-w.html This will give you more background. Good luck. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25746 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Cross combs Lines: 16 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 27 Jun 2000 22:58:23 GMT References: <8j936g$cr3$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000627185823.01363.00000142@ng-bh1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25746 > >Are you using Pierco's? What is a Pierco's? Sorry New stuff for me. >This is a favorite trick for some colonies that balk at the stuff. >Other than that all I can say is spacing is quite likely the problem. >keep them tight until they get them drawn. >Mike > I put two super on same time and I was told the bee's could have gone up to a second supers and ate the foundation wax to build the comb as the first super. I should have wait the first one is almost full just before addition more supers. Article 25747 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!cyclone.austin.rr.com!typhoon.austin.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "No1" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Queen cell? Lines: 17 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 00:34:14 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.27.124.231 X-Complaints-To: abuse@rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.austin.rr.com 962152454 24.27.124.231 (Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:34:14 CDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:34:14 CDT Organization: Road Runner - Texas Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25747 I installed a 3 lb package of bees in my top bar hive 4 days ago. Yesterday, the bees freed the queen from her cage and I found her today moving around on the combs. I have six bars with parabolic combs that the bees have drawn in these five days. On one other bar, however, I noticed what appears to be a single queen cell by itself and near the end of the bar. No parabolic comb was started in the middle of this bar. Did my bees just get ttired of waiting for the queen to be released and take matters into their own hands? If I find that this truly is a queen cell, should I remove it from the hive? All help is appreciated. Thanks, A Newbie beekeeper Article 25748 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!firehose.mindspring.com!pool-209-138-164-84-phnx.grid.net!user From: HiStretch@GoStretch.com (Charles "Stretch" Ledford) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stingless Bees? Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:33:17 -0500 Organization: STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY Lines: 13 Message-ID: References: <8j974l$h6l$1@news.hawaii.edu> <20000627134122.01256.00000066@ng-fl1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: d1.8a.a4.54 X-Server-Date: 28 Jun 2000 01:21:58 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25748 > > Why do your bees have to be stingless? I have anoles around my beehives all > the time. What in the hell is an anole? -- Charles "Stretch" Ledford STRETCH PHOTOGRAPHY "North America and the Entire World" http://www.GoStretch.com Article 25749 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!den-news-02.qwest.net!qwest!news-peer.gip.net!news.gsl.net!gip.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: Pete Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Queen cell? Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 01:27:08 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 30 Message-ID: <8jbk8v$ael$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.152.32.138 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 28 01:27:08 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.7 [en]C-CCK-MCD snapN45b1 (Win95; U) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x68.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 216.152.32.138 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDhrogers000 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25749 > "No1" wrote: > Did my bees just get ttired of waiting for the queen to be released >and take matters into their own hands? > If I find that this truly is a queen cell, should I remove it from the >hive? > A Newbie beekeeper ******************************************************* Howdy No1 -- How large is the queen cell? If it is a "cup" -- you will find those in hives year-round. I think they build them to keep in practice or as a pattern for the youngsters to follow. I would destroy the cell or cup because the queen with the package has not had a fair chance yet. Pete So much to learn - So little time ! ************************************************** Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25750 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stingless Bees? Lines: 17 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 28 Jun 2000 02:20:27 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000627222027.01832.00000123@ng-fc1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25750 From: HiStretch@GoStretch.com (Charles "Stretch" Ledford) >> Why do your bees have to be stingless? I have anoles around my >beehives all >> the time. > >What in the hell is an anole? There's a photo of one at the bottom of this page: http://hemingwaysouthcarolina.com/ Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm Article 25751 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!newsfeed.icl.net!diablo.theplanet.net!news.theplanet.net!newspost.theplanet.net!not-for-mail From: "Peter Edwards" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: To swarm or not to Swarm Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 06:59:38 +0100 Organization: Customer of Planet Online Lines: 13 Message-ID: <8j6rel$h86$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: modem-125.neilsborium.dialup.pol.co.uk X-Trace: newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk 961999125 17670 62.136.73.253 (26 Jun 2000 05:58:45 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 26 Jun 2000 05:58:45 GMT X-Complaints-To: abuse@theplanet.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25751 "Greg" wrote in message news:oBz55.1675$k5.27172@news1.rdc1.mb.home.com... > > My question is: has a new queen hatched and went on her mating flight?? Yes. Do workers go for a flight when the queen does?? > Sometimes - and sometimes they do not come back! Article 25752 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.algonet.se!algonet!bignews.mediaways.net!blackbush.xlink.net!newscore.gigabell.net!newsfeed00.sul.t-online.de!t-online.de!diablo.theplanet.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Newbie question - Feed mixture Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 00:16:04 +0100 Message-ID: References: <9me45.51922$cH1.463373@typhoon.austin.rr.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 962007358 nnrp-02:26651 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 8 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25752 In article <9me45.51922$cH1.463373@typhoon.austin.rr.com>, No1 writes >Here's a question: What does the 1:1 mixture for feeding sugar syrup imply? I use weight i.e. 1kg sugar to 1 litre water. If you use pounds, then a pint of water weighs a pound and a quarter so I learned at school in UK. But US has a different gallon so I don't know the size of your pints. -- James Kilty Article 25753 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsflash.concordia.ca!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!howland.erols.net!portc.blue.aol.com.MISMATCH!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: beekeeping as aerobic exercise! Lines: 7 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder06.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 26 Jun 2000 08:53:01 GMT References: Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000626045301.04962.00001242@ng-bg1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25753 Well--I still have to work on my weight, given the stuff I munch on, but possibly if I visited my bees more often, I could have more fun with less effort, weightwise! Best. Article 25754 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!gxn.net!server6.netnews.ja.net!news.york.ac.uk!not-for-mail From: Waites Paul Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Beginners question: on Brood & half method Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 10:47:48 +0100 Organization: University of York Lines: 38 Sender: prw3@york.ac.uk Message-ID: <395726C2.F628FB3@york.ac.uk> References: <395389A3.BAC0CB27@york.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: biolpc49.york.ac.uk Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: pump1.york.ac.uk 962012820 8612 144.32.212.17 (26 Jun 2000 09:47:00 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@york.ac.uk NNTP-Posting-Date: 26 Jun 2000 09:47:00 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en]C-CCK-MCD (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25754 Hi Geo Cheers for the advice. The frames were very mouldy; the honey in them had fermented and it was really awful, so I figured that it was best to remove them. I'll swap the chambers over and try and force her back into the brood area, at next inspection. I was taught to do it this way a couple of years ago, I was told it kept the colony manageable. I remove the outer super frames and put them above the excluder, replacing some fresh foundation each week to give her room to expand. Thanks, Paul. George Styer wrote: > There was no need to remove the moldy frames. It is normal for the queen to > go up and it is unlikely that she did so to get away from the mold. Bees > will readily clean it up. What you should have done was to reverse the brood > boxes by putting the > bottom one on top. Reversing is an accepted method of reducing swarming. If > you are cutting out queen cells, you will have a difficult time stopping > them from swarming. If you still have the moldy frames, put them back above > the "super". If all you have is foundation, put it above the super. > Reversing can be repeated as necessary. > > I am a little perplexed as to the recommendation for 1 1/2 configuration for > "beekeeping in an urban environment". Regardless of whether they are city > bees or country bees, they need enough room for the local environment. > -- > Geo > Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley > "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" > gstyLer@worldnet.att.net > To respond via email, get the "L" out of there > Article 25755 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!newsfeed.icl.net!newsfeed.wirehub.nl!newsfeed.esat.net!news.heanet.ie!server5.netnews.ja.net!news.york.ac.uk!not-for-mail From: Waites Paul Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Beginners question: on Brood & half method Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 10:55:53 +0100 Organization: University of York Lines: 60 Sender: prw3@york.ac.uk Message-ID: <395728A9.1A892E7C@york.ac.uk> References: <395389A3.BAC0CB27@york.ac.uk> <8j0o9i$jtd$3@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: biolpc49.york.ac.uk Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: pump1.york.ac.uk 962013305 10228 144.32.212.17 (26 Jun 2000 09:55:05 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@york.ac.uk NNTP-Posting-Date: 26 Jun 2000 09:55:05 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en]C-CCK-MCD (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25755 Hi Peter, Cheers; I went to a course run by the York beekeepers and they advised brood and a half, although I am now starting to think that two brood chambers could be better as my other hive is now very powerful and has just about filled cell of every frame in the hive. (I took off 27 queen cells last week, and am thinking of exchanging a frame of brood with the weaker hive to balance things up a bit). At the moment I am removing the outer super frames and putting them above the excluder, replacing some fresh foundation each week to give them room to expand. Thanks, Paul. Peter Edwards wrote: > I think that you need advice from local beekeepers. > > I my view, brood and a half is an awful way to set up a hive, but if the > queen is only occupying the 'half' at this stage of the season then she > sounds very poor; if such a small colony is also trying to swarm then you do > have a problem. > > What they really need is a box of drawn comb over the super, but if you do > not have one then I would put the box of foundation over the top and feed so > that they draw it out quickly, assuming that there are enough bees to do it > (perhaps just a gallon of syrup - they should be feeding you at this time of > the year!). Very difficult to advise without seeing the colony. If you are > not a member of your local association then I would suggest that you join; I > believe that there is a very good one in York. > > You say that you are removing queens cells at each inspection. How often > have you done this? Are you sure that they are trying to swarm? They may > be trying to supersede the poor queen and your actions are preventing this. > > "Waites Paul" wrote in message > news:395389A3.BAC0CB27@york.ac.uk... > > Hi all, > > > > My two hives are on brood & a half which is what I was recommended for > > beekeeping in an urban environment. > > > > This Spring was very wet here in York UK and when I did finally get into > > my main hive, it was very damp and much of the stores were mouldy. The > > queen had retreated upwards into the "super-brood" area leaving the main > > brood box alone. I've replaced all the effected comb in the main brood > > chamber with fresh frames of foundation but the workers still haven't > > drawn it out and she remains cramped into the smaller top chamber. The > > colony is now making plans to swarm judging by the number of queen cells > > that I am removing at each inspection. > > > > I was thinking of putting the larger brood box above the "super" to > > encourage her to go back into the main brood box. What do people think. > > Do you think that I risk loosing some of the brood that I do have from > > the smaller chamber if I swap it over with the brood box. > > > > Many thanks for any advice. > > > > Paul. > > Article 25756 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!btnet-peer0!btnet!mendelevium.btinternet.com!not-for-mail From: "Richard Smith" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Properties of Beeswax Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 14:34:42 +0100 Organization: BT Internet Lines: 7 Message-ID: <8j51r3$i3q$1@neptunium.btinternet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: host213-1-60-174.btinternet.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25756 In september I will be starting a third year engineering university project which will involve trying to extrude beeswax candles. Does anybody have any information on the properties of beeswax? thanks Article 25757 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!HSNX.atgi.net!cyclone.bc.net!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.hawaii.edu!not-for-mail From: "skohler" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stingless Bees? Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 18:56:45 -0700 Organization: University of Hawaii Lines: 25 Message-ID: <8jc0km$li8$1@news.hawaii.edu> References: <20000627222027.01832.00000123@ng-fc1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mo13.housing.hawaii.edu X-Trace: news.hawaii.edu 962168278 22088 128.171.186.13 (28 Jun 2000 04:57:58 GMT) X-Complaints-To: usenet@hawaii.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 28 Jun 2000 04:57:58 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25757 > >> Why do your bees have to be stingless? I have anoles around my > >beehives all > >> the time. > > If the bees were to comprise a major portion of the lizards diet, I would be concerned that repeated stings could cause oral tenderness/ swelling...discouraging feeding in the Chamaeleo spp. I've heard reports of Old World chameleons gingerly eating bees "like spice Thai food", but I'm hesitant to offer them on a deliberate and frequent basis. > >What in the hell is an anole? > Anolis carolinesis, or the American anole, is an active insectivorious iguanid lizard that can vary its color according to mood (green to brown). A New World species that vigorously displays a red dew lap is territorial defense, it is very common in the Southern US. Is there no way *at all* to import the Australian stingless bees into the US? Steve K. Article 25758 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!saltmine.radix.net!not-for-mail From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Ventilation with migratory covers? Date: 28 Jun 2000 07:10:20 -0400 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 9 Message-ID: <8jcmes$q78$1@saltmine.radix.net> References: <8j8t2g$8nk$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Reply-To: adamf@radix.net NNTP-Posting-Host: saltmine.radix.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25758 I use old Cyprus migratory tops that are warped and funky--lots of air gaps--which the bees always seem to propolize shut. Even in the Summer. ???? Go figure. Adam -- Adam Finkelstein adamf@radix.net http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 25759 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!csulb.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!europa.netcrusader.net!209.48.40.11!dca1-hub1.news.digex.net!dca1-feed4.news.digex.net!intermedia!news1.bms.com!not-for-mail From: Jesse Hunter Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: FYI: Gardeners and Sevin Dust: posted to garden groups Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 09:28:06 -0400 Organization: Bristol-Myers Squibb Company Lines: 15 Message-ID: <3959FD66.9116AEBD@bms.com> References: <20000627144850.01244.00000083@ng-fl1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: newsreader-hpw1.net.bms.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en]C-BMY (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en Cache-Post-Path: newsreader-hpw1.net.bms.com!unknown@hunter.syr.pgr.bms.com X-Cache: nntpcache 2.3.3 (see http://www.nntpcache.org/) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25759 What then is a good insecticide to use in my garden? I have 2 hives that are approximately 100 ft from this garden. Additionally, these hives are next to a soybean field. Are there any chemicals that the farmer who is renting this field from me might use that could hurt my bees? He just planted the beans 2 weeks ago. Jesse Dave Green wrote: > Time to put away the Sevin dust > > Many gardeners use Sevin dust to control garden pests. But what they may > not realize is that they cannot *legally* use this product (or any residual > insecticide) on a blooming plant that is attracting bees. Article 25760 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!chnws02.mediaone.net!chnws05.ne.mediaone.net!24.128.8.70!typhoon.ne.mediaone.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <395A05C8.E2D07A57@riverace.com> From: Steve Huston Organization: Riverace Corporation X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: not filling comb - staying to one side but making honey References: <8jbpch$e1e$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 44 Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 14:03:52 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.91.48.64 X-Complaints-To: abuse@mediaone.net X-Trace: typhoon.ne.mediaone.net 962201032 24.91.48.64 (Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:03:52 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:03:52 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25760 From your pics (great idea, BTW), I see that your hive is on the edge of some woods. I have hives in a similar placement. rec01rec@my-deja.com wrote: > > Hi, curious about what I saw today. > > Weather in New England was bad until a few weeks ago..since then the > bees have been busy. Today I opened the hive expecting them to have > filled the comb out in all the frames...what I found was funy...they > had maybe filled out an additional frame but there was honey on top of > the frames (not in the tops but ON top) and they hadn't filled out any On top is something I haven't seen before. > more frames. They seem to be staying in a clump on the left side of the > hive and not filling frams on the right side. They are obviously > reproducing and everything but not filling all the frames! This happened with my new foundations last year too. > Should they have? Should I add the 2nd brood chamber (I did), or move > unfinished frames towards the clump of bees on the left hoping they > will begin working on them? If they haven't drawn comb on 8 or 9 of the first 10, then move some untouched ones to where the bees are, but don't disturb the brood nest too much if you can help it. If they have drawn 8 or 9, then adding the second box is correct. If they don't touch it i na week or so, move one or two frames up from the first box to entice them. If you aren't feeding syrup, it would be a good idea to start. They'll draw comb much quicker - there's not too much of a flow on lately where I am (southern Massachusetts). -Steve -- Steve Huston Riverace Corporation Email: shuston@riverace.com http://www.riverace.com ACE Kits, Support, Consulting (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185 Installable Kits at http://www.riverace.com/ACE_Kits/kit-store.html Article 25761 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed2.news.nl.uu.net!sun4nl!oleane.net!oleane!wanadoo.fr!not-for-mail From: "jlongy" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Beekeeping Internet portal Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 17:34:26 +0200 Organization: Wanadoo, l'internet avec France Telecom Lines: 24 Message-ID: <8jd69h$kqr$1@wanadoo.fr> Reply-To: "jlongy" NNTP-Posting-Host: alyon-102-1-113.abo.wanadoo.fr X-Trace: wanadoo.fr 962206833 21339 193.251.26.113 (28 Jun 2000 15:40:33 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@wanadoo.fr NNTP-Posting-Date: 28 Jun 2000 15:40:33 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25761 Hi I watch lot of beekeeping site , but no one was realy " superior" or the best. What kind of informations or services could be usefull for beekeepers, beginners ??? if you have any idea, suggest it to me. ( sorry for my english , im french) If you know the best beekeeping site, show me please ! Jeff Thanks Jean-François LONGY www.cybervigie.com Article 25762 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!ptdnetP!newsgate.ptd.net!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: not filling comb - staying to one side but making honey Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 17:21:22 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 24 Message-ID: <395a337c.623783@news1.radix.net> References: <8jbpch$e1e$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p16.a4.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25762 On Wed, 28 Jun 2000 02:54:15 GMT, rec01rec@my-deja.com wrote: >Hi, curious about what I saw today. > >Weather in New England was bad until a few weeks ago..since then the >bees have been busy. Today I opened the hive expecting them to have >filled the comb out in all the frames...what I found was funy...they >had maybe filled out an additional frame but there was honey on top of >the frames (not in the tops but ON top) and they hadn't filled out any >more frames. They seem to be staying in a clump on the left side of the >hive and not filling frams on the right side. They are obviously >reproducing and everything but not filling all the frames! > >Should they have? Should I add the 2nd brood chamber (I did), or move >unfinished frames towards the clump of bees on the left hoping they >will begin working on them? You have some of those damn lefthanded bees. I had the same problem once so I raised a new queen from them and instrumentally inseminated her with drones from a righthanded colony. Now they don't fill in the middle! Greg the beekeep Article 25763 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.vt.edu!news-out.cwix.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!europa.netcrusader.net!152.163.239.131!portc03.blue.aol.com!wn4feed!worldnet.att.net!135.173.83.20!wnmasters3!bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "George Styer" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <8jbpch$e1e$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Subject: Re: not filling comb - staying to one side but making honey Lines: 43 Organization: Productive Solutions X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 19:28:34 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.74.0.213 X-Complaints-To: abuse@worldnet.att.net X-Trace: bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net 962220514 12.74.0.213 (Wed, 28 Jun 2000 19:28:34 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 19:28:34 GMT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25763 Turn your inner cover over, you have it on upside down and that is why you are getting the burr comb. You will notice that the other side (the rough one) provides less of a gap. Move your division board feeder to the other side of the hive, where the bees are. How long ago did you install the package? Without knowing this, it is impossible to make a determination regarding the build-up. -- Geo Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" gstyLer@worldnet.att.net To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there wrote in message news:8jbpch$e1e$1@nnrp1.deja.com... > Hi, curious about what I saw today. > > Weather in New England was bad until a few weeks ago..since then the > bees have been busy. Today I opened the hive expecting them to have > filled the comb out in all the frames...what I found was funy...they > had maybe filled out an additional frame but there was honey on top of > the frames (not in the tops but ON top) and they hadn't filled out any > more frames. They seem to be staying in a clump on the left side of the > hive and not filling frams on the right side. They are obviously > reproducing and everything but not filling all the frames! > > Should they have? Should I add the 2nd brood chamber (I did), or move > unfinished frames towards the clump of bees on the left hoping they > will begin working on them? > > Pics available at http://www.rec.cnchost.com/bees/dsc00029a.jpg and > http://www.rec.cnchost.com/bees/ (last 5 picks are recent fron this > time) > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Before you buy. Article 25764 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!128.230.129.106!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: Glenn West Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: FYI: Gardeners and Sevin Dust: posted to garden groups Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 18:59:14 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 21 Message-ID: <8jdhtn$ob7$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <20000627144850.01244.00000083@ng-fl1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.228.142.1 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 28 18:59:14 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.01; Windows 98; EDS COE v2000.1) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x61.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 199.228.142.1 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDwestxga Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25764 In article <20000627144850.01244.00000083@ng-fl1.aol.com>, pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) wrote: > Time to put away the Sevin dust > > Many gardeners use Sevin dust to control garden pests. But what they may > not realize is that they cannot *legally* use this product (or any residual > insecticide) on a blooming plant that is attracting bees. Many bee- attractive > garden plants are coming into bloom across the northern parts of the US right > now [snipped] Isn't this kind of like preaching to the choir? Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25765 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.cs.com!not-for-mail From: texasdrone@cs.combees (Robert Williamson) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Honey in comb after brood Lines: 15 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.cs.com X-Admin: news@cs.com Date: 28 Jun 2000 22:55:35 GMT References: Organization: CompuServe (http://www.compuserve.com/) Message-ID: <20000628185535.01778.00000274@ng-ft1.news.cs.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25765 >This is comb foundation, and I know I probably >wouldn't want to eat the parts of the comb that have had brood in it, but I >crushed that part of the comb up & got a bit of honey out of it. Is this >honey OK to eat or should I give it back to the bees? I haven't died yet? Robert Williamson Southeast Texas Honey Co. P.O. Box 176 Vidor, Tx. 77670 " A simple and independent mind does not toil at the bidding of any prince" Article 25766 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc03.blue.aol.com!logbridge.uoregon.edu!news.Arizona.EDU!not-for-mail From: John Edwards Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stingless Bees? Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 16:17:22 -0700 Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Lines: 32 Message-ID: <395A8782.B664AC9A@tucson.ars.ag.gov> References: <8j62ul$2a4$1@news.hawaii.edu> <8j8t87$eei$1@enyo.uwa.edu.au> NNTP-Posting-Host: feral-bee.tucson.ars.ag.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en,pdf Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25766 David Watson wrote: > skohler wrote: > ..........I am considering using honeybees as a > : food organism for Old World chameleons (Chamaeleo spp.). They are reputed > : to be nutritious, since they are covered in pollen. > > : low maintenance means of gaining a live food snack. Thoughts? In case you > : couldn't tell, I'm a honeybee newbie (but a herptological whiz). Thanks! How about adding pollen to your mealworm diet mix ? -they should love it. Wax moths might be another hardy food source, and both species can be stored at cool temps until needed. Bee colonies aren't nearly as reliable for herp food as these. ----------------------------------------------------------- John F. Edwards Biological Lab. Technician "Feral Bee Tracker and AHB Identifier", part-time mobile sting target. Carl Hayden Bee Research Center Agricultural Research Service - USDA 2000 E. Allen Road Tucson, Arizona 85719 32.27495 N 110.9402 W http://198.22.133.109/ http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/home/edwards/edwards.html Article 25767 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!torn!newserver!news.hwcn.org!not-for-mail From: "Keith B. Forsyth" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Properties of Beeswax Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:57:52 -0400 Organization: Hamilton-Wentworth FreeNet Lines: 12 Distribution: world Message-ID: <8j8g91$q0n$1@mohawk.hwcn.org> References: <8j51r3$i3q$1@neptunium.btinternet.com> Reply-To: "Keith B. Forsyth" NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.212.94.223 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25767 Hi: You may wish to reference the following texts: Beeswax Crafting Robert Berthold Jr. Honeybees and Wax HR Hepburn Beeswax Coggshell and Morse The Hive and the Honey Bee 1992 edition. Coggshell and Morse have 1 page (p.139) on extruding wax candles. You may wish to contact Dadant and Sons or AI Root. These companies manufacture candles and may give to some of the basic information. I am sure their processes would be strictly controlled. Article 25768 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "Rodney Isom" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Ventilation with migratory covers? Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 17:49:51 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 26 Message-ID: Reply-To: "Rodney Isom" X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25768 Hi folks, I live in Alabama & I have a couple of hives with inner covers / telescoping outer covers and a couple of hives with migratory covers. I know that I can put something under the rear of the outer covers to prop them open a little & allow extra ventilation when it gets hot, but can you also do this with migratory covers? Will this cause the bees to start using that opening to come & go and if so, is that a problem? Or will it allow rain into the hive? Or cause any other problems I'm not aware of? And is it really necessary to provide extra ventilation in this manner? I just get a little nervous on those hot days when it looks like nearly all the bees in the hive are hanging out on the front....can it get so hot inside that the comb melts? Thanks, Rodney Isom -- Rodney Isom Arab, AL rodneyi@nooospam.hiwaay.net (remove the obvious part to reply) Article 25769 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "Teri Bachus" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Recent AHB show on PBS Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:47:16 -0400 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 23 Message-ID: References: X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25769 sounds like a repeat of the "pollinators in peril" documentary...there were previous threads on this a while back also entitled "bees on tv" and "turner 's anti-honey bee agenda", among others including this one: Some in this newsgroup might find this online CNN article interesting, though it is woefully weak on accuracy: http://www.cnn.com/2000/NATURE/05/05/pollinators.peril/ John Caldeira Dallas, Texas http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/ Article 25770 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.qis.net!dca1-hub1.news.digex.net!dca1-feed4.news.digex.net!intermedia!news1.bms.com!not-for-mail From: Jesse Hunter Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: real beeswax comb Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:15:14 -0400 Organization: Bristol-Myers Squibb Company Lines: 18 Message-ID: <395B3DD2.E97A220A@bms.com> References: <20000629042336.01817.00000631@ng-fs1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: newsreader-hpw1.net.bms.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en]C-BMY (WinNT; U) X-Accept-Language: en Cache-Post-Path: newsreader-hpw1.net.bms.com!unknown@hunter.syr.pgr.bms.com X-Cache: nntpcache 2.3.3 (see http://www.nntpcache.org/) Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25770 Take a whole frame in to them; brood (eggs and larve) in the middle, capped honey on the sides. Shows them the whole picture. They could pass it around and touch and feel. Even scrape for a taste. LKLarson1 wrote: > Any ideas on how to get my bees to build an interesting comb to take to school > age children's classes so to pass it around and show them what the real "McCoy" > looks like? I'd like to do this besides giving them my little talk, showing > them the observation hive, making some candles and tasting some honey. > > By the way, any educational suggestions for presentations to classrooms--ideas, > techniques, "catchy facts" you've used in your presentations to groups? > > Thanks. > > Article 25771 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <395B451B.5A46F06A@cornell.edu> From: JGinNY Reply-To: jwg6@cornell.edu X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: ? - Problems introducing queens to nuclei Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 30 Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 12:40:40 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.114 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 962282440 24.92.236.114 (Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:40:40 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:40:40 EDT Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25771 I have been making up 4-5 frame nucs, and giving them mail-order queens (in their typical wooden introducing cages). A peculiar problem I am noticing in a lot of the nucs this year is that they are constructing emergency queen cells during the few days while the newly installed queens are still confined to the introducing cages. Fortunately, so far, I have been able to discover the queen cells and remove them before the queens have exited the cages. This happened in similar fashion a few years ago, with some disappointing results. There were a number of nucs that killed the queens upon their release from the cages, because there were already q. cells present by then. Can anyone offer a reliable solution to this difficulty? It seems curious that the presence of the queen in her cage would not prevent queen rearing in a nuc. I have not seen this happen so often in the past. Normally the nuc just releases the queen and accepts her without any trouble, but this time around I am having to shake the bees of the combs and destroy q. cells before the queens can be safely released. Thanks for any discussion or suggestions. Joel nr. Ithaca, NY (Please send any direct replies to jwgbee@hotmail.com, not to the above address.) Article 25772 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!WReNclone!WReNphoon3.POSTED!WReN!not-for-mail From: Tom Subject: my bees are raising queens cells like billyho Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Message-ID: <08b3ac62.29487593@usw-ex0109-068.remarq.com> Lines: 13 Bytes: 678 X-Originating-Host: 193.113.185.168 Organization: http://www.remarq.com: The World's Usenet/Discussions Start Here X-Wren-Trace: eJu+lpeOyYPIyJ+WnZWWl4Cbq5yKltWZm4WanYbBgdSZ3YrDxpXfxMTUzsbAldnawg== Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 10:50:50 -0700 NNTP-Posting-Host: 10.0.2.68 X-Complaints-To: wrenabuse@remarq.com X-Trace: WReNphoon3 962302473 10.0.2.68 (Thu, 29 Jun 2000 11:14:33 PDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 11:14:33 PDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25772 I have a slightly errant colony of bees, they are not seriously bad tempered but you can't stay near them for too long. they are producing queen cells ten or twelve per week. I have introduced an extra super into the brood chamber but all they did was fill this with honey!! this colony swarmed and I collected them for a fresh hive but the original colony are still building queen cells. I don't like to keep on with the hatchet approach but am a little stuck for ideas any good suggestions will be appreciated * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping. Smart is Beautiful Article 25773 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: kamtout@together.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A small smarm problem Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 02:17:11 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 23 Message-ID: <8j92qt$cnu$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <39511f72.1006940@news1.radix.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.13.202.72 X-Article-Creation-Date: Tue Jun 27 02:17:11 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.5 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x61.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 208.13.202.72 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDkamtout Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25773 Here's some advice, Unless you have a spare house you can live in for about 5 years I'd pass on any use of BEE-GO inside, on a rag,as a mist or even the cap. Chemists know this stuff as 'chemical stink' and there is no ANTI-BEEGO on the market that I know of. You're right to avoid the smoker as well, fire hazard is a prime concern. If you can get at them then a shop vac on SUCK would probably be a good start. Otherwise a powder apicide or wasp and hornet spray to kill them where they are.(a last resort though, bees stink when they rot too.) The wire cone on the entrance might get the most of them out but it may take a week or two. Good Luck, Just say NO to bee-go! -- Mike in VT Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25774 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!lester.appstate.edu!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: kamtout@together.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Cross combs Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 02:23:24 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 10 Message-ID: <8j936g$cr3$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <20000621222225.04835.00000017@ng-fg1.aol.com> <8j0o9l$jtd$4@news6.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.13.202.72 X-Article-Creation-Date: Tue Jun 27 02:23:24 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.5 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x61.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 208.13.202.72 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDkamtout Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25774 Tim, Are you using Pierco's? This is a favorite trick for some colonies that balk at the stuff. Other than that all I can say is spacing is quite likely the problem. keep them tight until they get them drawn. Mike Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25775 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <395B9AB0.7787AF5E@cornell.edu> From: JGinNY Reply-To: jwg6@cornell.edu X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Ventilation with migratory covers? References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 18 Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 18:45:53 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.114 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 962304353 24.92.236.114 (Thu, 29 Jun 2000 14:45:53 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 14:45:53 EDT Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25775 Rodney Isom wrote: <...> > ....can it get so hot > inside that the comb melts? Not if the bees are in there, to keep the air moving through. However, anyone using bee escapes in hot weather, be careful!! I once had some beautiful supers of round sections ruined, after inserting bee escapes underneath, when a couple of really hot days came on. Most of the bees had exited the supers, leaving them untended, and a good number of the comb honey sections melted and collapsed. A nice mess. Article 25776 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!cyclone.nyroc.rr.com!news.nyroc.rr.com!news.rr.com!typhoon.nyroc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <395B993A.782FDE47@cornell.edu> From: JGinNY Reply-To: jwg6@cornell.edu X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Warming honey before filtering References: <7DZ55.1674$tg2.32953@news2-win.server.ntlworld.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 19 Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 18:39:38 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.92.236.114 X-Complaints-To: abuse@twcny.rr.com X-Trace: typhoon.nyroc.rr.com 962303978 24.92.236.114 (Thu, 29 Jun 2000 14:39:38 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 14:39:38 EDT Organization: Time Warner Road Runner - Syracuse NY Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25776 George Styer wrote: > Put the tub in your vehicle and park it in the sun. I second George's suggestion! Works very well (if the honey is not granulated already) and costs nil. Provided the windows are all rolled up, the temp. inside the vehicle will soar, and after a long summer day, the honey will remain warm for several hours. It is also a great way to get your cappings drained of honey -- set the cappings strainer in the back of a wagon or hatchback in the heat of the summer, on a couple sunny days. But keep an eye on things, for if there is a local heat wave, and it gets _too_ hot in there, the cappings may start to melt. I did notice that one time. Article 25777 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!howland.erols.net!cyclone2.usenetserver.com!news-out.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!cyclone1.usenetserver.com!news-east.usenetserver.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Peter Amschel Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: real beeswax comb Message-ID: References: <20000629042336.01817.00000631@ng-fs1.aol.com> X-Newsreader: MicroPlanet Gravity v2.30.1784 Lines: 22 X-Abuse-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers X-Abuse-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly X-Complaints-To: support@usenetserver.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 16:18:10 EDT Organization: WebUseNet Corp http://www.usenetserver.com - Home of the fastest NNTP servers on the Net. Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 13:14:43 -0700 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25777 If you are using langstroth frames you might try leaving one of the frames in the hive without any foundation wax or wires and the bees might draw down some normal comb for you in that frame. Also, burr comb is normal comb, if you ask me. In article <20000629042336.01817.00000631@ng-fs1.aol.com>, lklarson1@aol.com says... > Any ideas on how to get my bees to build an interesting comb to take to school > age children's classes so to pass it around and show them what the real "McCoy" > looks like? I'd like to do this besides giving them my little talk, showing > them the observation hive, making some candles and tasting some honey. > > By the way, any educational suggestions for presentations to classrooms--ideas, > techniques, "catchy facts" you've used in your presentations to groups? > > Thanks. > > > Article 25778 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsxfer.eecs.umich.edu!hardy.tc.umn.edu!news.nero.net!news.uidaho.edu!not-for-mail From: Matthew Pollard Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: real beeswax comb Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 13:53:39 -0700 Organization: University of Idaho Lines: 21 Message-ID: <395BB753.93960AD4@uidaho.edu.no.spam> References: <20000629042336.01817.00000631@ng-fs1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.chem.uidaho.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Trace: kestrel.csrv.uidaho.edu 962312503 5552 129.101.81.41 (29 Jun 2000 21:01:43 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uidaho.edu NNTP-Posting-Date: 29 Jun 2000 21:01:43 GMT X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (WinNT; I) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25778 When i was in first grade, but big brother (who is 15 years older than me) brough in a super of honey! It was great- he showed us the frames and comb, then he cut some for us to eat. It was great. I apparently ate too much because I vomitted right there in front of my class! ahhhhh! Have fun! Matthew LKLarson1 wrote: > Any ideas on how to get my bees to build an interesting comb to take to school > age children's classes so to pass it around and show them what the real "McCoy" > looks like? I'd like to do this besides giving them my little talk, showing > them the observation hive, making some candles and tasting some honey. > > By the way, any educational suggestions for presentations to classrooms--ideas, > techniques, "catchy facts" you've used in your presentations to groups? > > Thanks. > > Article 25779 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bees in my Shed!! Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 00:38:24 +0100 Message-ID: References: <395af0f3.3263467@news.free-online.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 962321998 nnrp-11:2158 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 13 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25779 In article <395af0f3.3263467@news.free-online.net>, MG <100550.3170@compuserve.com> writes >I don't want to incurr the expense of a Bee Keeper for 20/30 bees... They sound like bumble bees (I suppose they could be solitary bees as you have not described them but one hole and 20-30 is more like bumbles). Why not coexist with them? They should leave you alone if you leave them alone. I have had people stung when they blocked their entrance! They will be making queens and drones in July and then the colony will have done its work and disappear. So it will only be around for another few weeks. -- James Kilty Article 25780 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stingless Bees? Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 00:28:54 +0100 Message-ID: References: <20000627222027.01832.00000123@ng-fc1.aol.com> <8jc0km$li8$1@news.hawaii.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 962321997 nnrp-11:2158 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 10 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25780 In article <8jc0km$li8$1@news.hawaii.edu>, skohler writes > Is there no way *at all* to import the Australian stingless bees into >the US? The stingless bees do not produce very much honey so far as I know, though many indigenous people have used them to gather small quantities from time immemorial. They are not honeybees. All continents have them in the tropical regions. -- James Kilty Article 25781 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: pollen use by bees? Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 00:20:36 +0100 Message-ID: References: <8j34ri$e8d$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 962321996 nnrp-11:2158 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 13 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25781 In article <8j34ri$e8d$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk>, Martin Edwards writes >Hi folks. I'm a High school science teacher & I've been asked what bees do >with pollen...... I dunno! They store it in cells, initially in little lumps, later more compressed and for longer term storage, sealed with honey, and even wax. The young workers eat it (and honey) to convert it to a high protein food which they feed to larvae, the queen and each other. The glands that do this are in their heads and called hypopharyngeal glands. Young workers and drones eat pollen too and drones are fed it directly in the larval stage later on. -- James Kilty Article 25782 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!btnet-peer0!btnet!mendelevium.btinternet.com!not-for-mail From: "Richard Smith" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Properties of Beeswax Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 20:52:02 +0100 Organization: BT Internet Lines: 5 Message-ID: <8jb0mm$r98$1@uranium.btinternet.com> References: <8j51r3$i3q$1@neptunium.btinternet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: host213-1-177-76.btinternet.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25782 Thanks for all the information - I've now got a few more sources to investigate. Rich Article 25783 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!verio.MISMATCH!iad-peer.news.verio.net!news.verio.net!dfw-read.news.verio.net.POSTED!not-for-mail Reply-To: "Charles W." From: "Charles W." Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <395af0f3.3263467@news.free-online.net> Subject: Re: Bees in my Shed!! Lines: 32 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 15:18:42 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.96.184.188 X-Complaints-To: abuse@verio.net X-Trace: dfw-read.news.verio.net 962137124 204.96.184.188 (Tue, 27 Jun 2000 20:18:44 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 20:18:44 GMT Organization: Verio Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25783 If you are sure there are only 20 to 30, I doubt they are honey bees. If you are sure they are honey bees, there are probably many more than what you estimate. Swarms rarely have less than a few thousand bees. Also, if you have blocked their only entrance for any length of time, you will have effectively killed the colony. Most of the bees, including the queen, will be closed inside and will soon starve to death. The bees outside will be without a queen and therefore a means of reproduction, so they will die of old age and be gone. If I were you, I would call around to some local beekeepers and ask them about your dilema. You might find one that would help you to save them and do it for nothing, rather than having them killed. I know in the US, many beekeepers will still catch swarms and relocate bees for free in many cases. Good Luck, and I hope you don't have to kill them! MG <100550.3170@compuserve.com> wrote in message news:395af0f3.3263467@news.free-online.net... > I do not know much about bees, but they have set up home in my garden > shed and obviously are rather protective of 'their' territory! > > So, I need to encourage them to move on - I do not want to harm them > and initially, I have blocked the hole that they have been accessing > by. As such the colony is split and I wondered if there was a better > way of dealing with this problem?? > > I don't want to incurr the expense of a Bee Keeper for 20/30 bees... > > Cheers > > Mark > UK Article 25784 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newspeer1.nac.net!peer1.news.dircon.net!peer2.news.dircon.net!reader.news.dircon.net!not-for-mail From: steven.turner@zbee.com (Steven Turner) To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: RE: Bees in my Shed!! Message-ID: <962140017@zbee.com> Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 22:06:57 +0100 Distribution: world Organization: ZbeeNet computer networking for beekeepers X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 194.112.43.78 X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 194.112.32.19 Lines: 22 NNTP-Posting-Host: newsread3.dircon.co.uk X-Trace: reader.news.dircon.net 962143446 172 194.112.32.19 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25784 On Jun 27, 2000 07:50pm, 100550.3170@COMPUSERVE.COM wrote to ALL: > I do not know much about bees, but they have set up home in my garden > shed and obviously are rather protective of 'their' territory! > So, I need to encourage them to move on - I do not want to harm them > and initially, I have blocked the hole that they have been accessing > by. As such the colony is split and I wondered if there was a better > way of dealing with this problem?? Hello Mark, looks like you have a Bumble Bee nest, totally harmless insects next year they will be gone. Most beekeepers would advise leaving them alone. Gardeners/home owners can all do our bit to protect the environment. REgards Steve Bromley Beekeeper http://www/kentbee.com/ ... Platinum Xpress & Wildcat!..... Nice!!!! Article 25785 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail From: honeybs@radix.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Stingless Bees? Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 00:52:28 GMT Organization: RadixNet Internet Services Lines: 18 Message-ID: <39594c0b.6740780@news1.radix.net> References: <8j974l$h6l$1@news.hawaii.edu> <20000627134122.01256.00000066@ng-fl1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p19.a1.du.radix.net X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/16.230 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25785 On Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:33:17 -0500, HiStretch@GoStretch.com (Charles "Stretch" Ledford) wrote: > >> >> Why do your bees have to be stingless? I have anoles around my >beehives all >> the time. > >What in the hell is an anole? > >-- >Charles "Stretch" Ledford The little green lizards that they sell in the pet shops as camileons sp? . beekeep Article 25786 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: "Rodney Isom" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Honey in comb after brood Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 21:03:43 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 30 Message-ID: Reply-To: "Rodney Isom" X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25786 Hi again folks, I messed up early on & let the queen get up into one of my honey supers and lay a few eggs before I put the excluder in. After I put the excluder in place, all was well, but now I have dark patches where the brood was in a couple of my honey supers. This is comb foundation, and I know I probably wouldn't want to eat the parts of the comb that have had brood in it, but I crushed that part of the comb up & got a bit of honey out of it. Is this honey OK to eat or should I give it back to the bees? Also, I'm a beginner, so I'm kinda short of equipment. I took off one super from one of my hives today 'cause I wanted some honey, but I don't have anything to replace it with immediately. I can get some more frames & foundation together within a couple of days if I need to, but how long can I reasonably wait before I have problems with overcrowding? Will they swarm this time of year? There is no significant honey flow on right now (as far as I can tell), so I'm not worried about losing out on honey at this time. Thanks, Rodney -- Rodney Isom Arab, AL rodneyi@nooospam.hiwaay.net (remove the obvious part to reply) Article 25787 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: rec01rec@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: not filling comb - staying to one side but making honey Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 02:54:15 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 22 Message-ID: <8jbpch$e1e$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.147.175.138 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 28 02:54:15 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; Windows 98; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x65.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 24.147.175.138 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDrec01rec Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25787 Hi, curious about what I saw today. Weather in New England was bad until a few weeks ago..since then the bees have been busy. Today I opened the hive expecting them to have filled the comb out in all the frames...what I found was funy...they had maybe filled out an additional frame but there was honey on top of the frames (not in the tops but ON top) and they hadn't filled out any more frames. They seem to be staying in a clump on the left side of the hive and not filling frams on the right side. They are obviously reproducing and everything but not filling all the frames! Should they have? Should I add the 2nd brood chamber (I did), or move unfinished frames towards the clump of bees on the left hoping they will begin working on them? Pics available at http://www.rec.cnchost.com/bees/dsc00029a.jpg and http://www.rec.cnchost.com/bees/ (last 5 picks are recent fron this time) Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25788 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news1.radix.net!saltmine.radix.net!not-for-mail From: adamf@saltmine.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bee Information ... Date: 28 Jun 2000 07:07:37 -0400 Organization: Self-Organized. Dig that. Lines: 24 Message-ID: <8jcm9p$q2a$1@saltmine.radix.net> References: <3953628A.57C418B1@lplizard.com> Reply-To: adamf@radix.net NNTP-Posting-Host: saltmine.radix.net Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25788 In article <3953628A.57C418B1@lplizard.com>, Eric Albers wrote: >I've been collecting a lot of info on bees and hives, but I'm trying >to find out how much water a bee needs per day... I know it varies with >temperature, but at the 'average' temperature, how much water does a bee >consume? > >Also, how much honey does a bee eat? > >If there is a FAQ with these answers, please email me directly with it, >I looked at available FAQ's and didn't find this information... Hi. Unless some ambitious soul wrote a bee biology faq (which I doubt) you'd not find this info on the net. Check out the book FAQ at http://metalab.unc.edu/bees click on pointers Winston's book, and _The Hive and the Honey Bee_ should have what you're looking for, above. Adam -- Adam Finkelstein adamf@radix.net http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 25789 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!diablo.theplanet.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!not-for-mail From: "Pamela Buckle" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: real beeswax comb Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 23:59:21 +0100 Organization: UUNET WorldCom server (post doesn't reflect views of UUNET WorldCom Lines: 32 Message-ID: <8jgm1f$lj$1@lure.pipex.net> References: <20000629042336.01817.00000631@ng-fs1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: userdr49.uk.uudial.com X-Trace: lure.pipex.net 962321263 691 62.188.6.56 (29 Jun 2000 23:27:43 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uk.uu.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 29 Jun 2000 23:27:43 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25789 Two places to try if you are serious about bees in education: 1. The British Beekeepers Association (BBKA) 'Schools Pack' is a whole package (produced by beekeeper teachers) of printed material, information, worksheets, drawings and photos aimed at children about 6 to 10 yrs old. Copyable material for the teachers as well as for the pupils. By post from BBKA at NAC, Stoneleigh Warwickshire, England. Price inc post is UK£15, I think. 2. CD-ROM produced by Netherlands beekeepers with a mass of info , pics, quizzes, all very attractively presented. Was exhibited at Apimondia in Vancouver and won a gold medal (The BBKA pack got a silver medal). Sorry can't recall price and address off-hand, but it is well advertised. Martin. MK,UK. LKLarson1 wrote in message news:20000629042336.01817.00000631@ng-fs1.aol.com... > Any ideas on how to get my bees to build an interesting comb to take to school > age children's classes so to pass it around and show them what the real "McCoy" > looks like? I'd like to do this besides giving them my little talk, showing > them the observation hive, making some candles and tasting some honey. > > By the way, any educational suggestions for presentations to classrooms--ideas, > techniques, "catchy facts" you've used in your presentations to groups? > > Thanks. > > Article 25790 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!not-for-mail From: "Pamela Buckle" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bee Information ... Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 00:10:57 +0100 Organization: UUNET WorldCom server (post doesn't reflect views of UUNET WorldCom Lines: 33 Message-ID: <8jgm1g$lj$2@lure.pipex.net> References: <3953628A.57C418B1@lplizard.com> <8jcm9p$q2a$1@saltmine.radix.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: userdr49.uk.uudial.com X-Trace: lure.pipex.net 962321264 691 62.188.6.56 (29 Jun 2000 23:27:44 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@uk.uu.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 29 Jun 2000 23:27:44 GMT X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25790 The FAQ on the British Beekeepers Association (BBKA) site has a lot of info. www.bbka.demon.co.uk/index.htm Martin, MK,UK. Adam Finkelstein wrote in message news:8jcm9p$q2a$1@saltmine.radix.net... > In article <3953628A.57C418B1@lplizard.com>, > Eric Albers wrote: > >I've been collecting a lot of info on bees and hives, but I'm trying > >to find out how much water a bee needs per day... I know it varies with > >temperature, but at the 'average' temperature, how much water does a bee > >consume? > > > >Also, how much honey does a bee eat? > > > >If there is a FAQ with these answers, please email me directly with it, > >I looked at available FAQ's and didn't find this information... > > Hi. Unless some ambitious soul wrote a bee biology faq (which I doubt) > you'd not find this info on the net. Check out the book FAQ at > http://metalab.unc.edu/bees click on pointers > > Winston's book, and _The Hive and the Honey Bee_ should have what you're > looking for, above. > > Adam > -- > Adam Finkelstein > adamf@radix.net > http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf Article 25791 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!EU.net!newsfeed.mathworks.com!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!news.demon.co.uk!demon!kilty.demon.co.uk!honeymountain From: James Kilty Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Beginners question: on Brood & half method Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 00:09:56 +0100 Message-ID: <0gTcisAEd9W5EwYE@kilty.demon.co.uk> References: <395389A3.BAC0CB27@york.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk X-NNTP-Posting-Host: kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Trace: news.demon.co.uk 962321994 nnrp-11:2158 NO-IDENT kilty.demon.co.uk:193.237.253.225 X-Complaints-To: abuse@demon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02 S Lines: 20 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25791 In article , George Styer writes >I am a little perplexed as to the recommendation for 1 1/2 configuration for >"beekeeping in an urban environment". Regardless of whether they are city >bees or country bees, they need enough room for the local environment. In the UK quite a lot of the older beekeepers swear by it. The British National and the older wbc hive are OK for a non-prolific bee, such as many colonies are when they are close to native in character. So, a more prolific bee is given a larger hive, by adding a super (5 1/2 inches instead of 8 1/2 inches) rather than another brood chamber. It gives too many problems in my view and a two chamber hive is probably better with 2 equal size hive bodies and division boards. If all colonies are more prolific, then a larger hive is called for. There is even a jumbo National which is 1 1/2 in size (14 x 12 cf 14 x 8 1/2). I suppose the stronger recommendation for an urban environment is to reduce pressure swarms. Again, we are probably being advised by a minimalist beekeeper. (Ducks head to avoid missile in case this is not so). The 1 1/2 also more certainly ensures there are sufficient stores left for the winter. -- James Kilty Article 25792 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!newsfeed.icl.net!colt.net!newspeer.clara.net!news.clara.net!news5-gui.server.ntli.net!ntli.net!news2-win.server.ntlworld.com.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Graham Read" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Warming honey before filtering Lines: 20 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211 Message-ID: <7DZ55.1674$tg2.32953@news2-win.server.ntlworld.com> Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:30:48 +0100 NNTP-Posting-Host: 62.252.11.11 X-Complaints-To: abuse@net.ntl.com X-Trace: news2-win.server.ntlworld.com 962094659 62.252.11.11 (Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:30:59 BST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:30:59 BST Organization: ntlworld News Service Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25792 Hi I've got about 90lb of honey sitting in a plastic tub (with a lid). I've often had trouble filtering the honey - the filters get bunged up so quick as to be almost useless. Someone suggested that I should warm the honey first - that way it'll run much better (As I usually filtered on a warm (20 - 22C) day I assumed that was sufficient). Any ideas on how to warm the honey - bearing in mind I'd rather not pour the honey out of the plastic tub first. One suggestion was to put a 60w light bulb under the tub and leave for a couple of days - has anyone tried this ?, and if so did it work, what gap did you leave below the tub. I don't want to melt the plastic ! Any other ideas ? Graham Article 25793 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp3.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <3958A495.67C874F0@together.net> From: Michael Palmer Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Organization: French Hill Apiaries X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-DIAL (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: beekeeping as aerobic exercise! References: <20000620030806.11868.00002675@ng-fs1.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 24 Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:56:53 -0400 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.13.202.129 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp3.onemain.com 962110482 208.13.202.129 (Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:54:42 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:54:42 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25793 I began the bee season a little over weight for me. Reversing 1000 colonies took care of that and then some. I went from 192 lbs in mid-April to 168 today. It's my new diet plan. Come work for me, and for a small fee the pounds will melt away before your very eyes, Hee, hee, hee. Mike James Kilty wrote: > In article <20000620030806.11868.00002675@ng-fs1.aol.com>, LKLarson1 > writes > >Noticing how at times I'm exhausted after working with my bees, I wore my > >exercise heart meter today, just for the fun of it. Just working with my eight > >hives in 80 degree weather (wearing a Sheriff suit with levis) for a couple > >hours, produced about one and one-half hours of my pulse over 100 (between > >100-110) and about 30+ minutes between 110 and 120. I was surprised--was > >taking my time, not under any unusual stress or anything! And, it was a lot > >more fun than working out at the local health club. > does this mean with 50 hives I should stop bothering about my waist- > line? Not that 80 degrees is common here. > -- > James Kilty Article 25794 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!feed2.onemain.com!feed1.onemain.com!nntp3.onemain.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <3958A584.D3E270F0@together.net> From: Michael Palmer Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Organization: French Hill Apiaries X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-DIAL (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: A small smarm problem References: <39511f72.1006940@news1.radix.net> <8j92qt$cnu$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 21 Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:00:52 -0400 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.13.202.129 X-Complaints-To: abuse@onemain.com X-Trace: nntp3.onemain.com 962110722 208.13.202.129 (Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:58:42 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:58:42 EDT Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25794 I believe ammonia can be used to get rid of bee-go smell. Or is it vinegar? Mike kamtout@together.net wrote: > Here's some advice, > Unless you have a spare house you can live in for about 5 years I'd > pass on any use of BEE-GO inside, on a rag,as a mist or even the cap. > Chemists know this stuff as 'chemical stink' and there is no ANTI-BEEGO > on the market that I know of. > > > > > -- > Article 25795 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsflash.concordia.ca!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Ventilation with migratory covers? Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 27 Jun 2000 14:28:52 GMT References: <8j8t2g$8nk$1@nnrp1.deja.com> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000627102852.02169.00000031@ng-fl1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25795 Wood chips between the boxes provide good airflow. So does offsetting a super. Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com Article 25796 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.skycache.com!Cidera!152.163.239.129!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.comnospam (Dave Green) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: FYI: Gardeners and Sevin Dust: posted to garden groups Lines: 42 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 27 Jun 2000 18:48:50 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000627144850.01244.00000083@ng-fl1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25796 Time to put away the Sevin dust Many gardeners use Sevin dust to control garden pests. But what they may not realize is that they cannot *legally* use this product (or any residual insecticide) on a blooming plant that is attracting bees. Many bee-attractive garden plants are coming into bloom across the northern parts of the US right now. Here are the directions from the Sevin label: <> Note that the label directions say that the material has residual action as well as by direct contact with bees. The residues from Sevin will eventually break down, but not for several days. If nectar and pollen are contaminated, bees will die. Dust is especially dangerous to bees because, the bee cannot separate it from pollen. The pollen and the dust are attracted to the bee because of static electricity, and are mixed together, raked into the bees' pollen baskets, and carried home to feed the babies. Violations of the label directions can lead to citations, fines, and liability for your neighbor's bees. Admittedly, citations for gardener violations are rare, but the chances increase if your beekeeper neighbor notices a bee kill, and calls the pesticide inspector to investigate. The most important reason to adhere to the law, is the plain stupidity of killing our pollinators -- biting the hand that feeds us. You need your beekeeper neighbor, as well. Does this mean that insecticides cannot be used to control pests? NO! It means you must use them intelligently. Look at the label directions before you purchase an insecticide. The bee directions are always under "Environmental Hazards" because our pollinators are an environmental resource. If your garden is blooming, choose one that is NOT residual and apply it after the bees are done for the day. Residual pesticides should only be used on non-blooming plants (or plants that bees NEVER visit). Dave Green, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://www.pollinator.com Article 25797 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!hammer.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!look.ca!btnet-peer0!btnet!landlord!stones.POSTED!not-for-mail From: 100550.3170@compuserve.com (MG) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Bees in my Shed!! Organization: hieroglyph Reply-To: 100550.3170@compuserve.com Message-ID: <395af0f3.3263467@news.free-online.net> X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 1.5/32.452 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 14 Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 18:50:47 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 212.159.20.118 X-Complaints-To: abuse@plus.net.uk X-Trace: stones 962131730 212.159.20.118 (Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:48:50 BST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:48:50 BST Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25797 I do not know much about bees, but they have set up home in my garden shed and obviously are rather protective of 'their' territory! So, I need to encourage them to move on - I do not want to harm them and initially, I have blocked the hole that they have been accessing by. As such the colony is split and I wondered if there was a better way of dealing with this problem?? I don't want to incurr the expense of a Bee Keeper for 20/30 bees... Cheers Mark UK Article 25798 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newsswitch.lcs.mit.edu!netnews.com!europa.netcrusader.net!209.130.129.214!nntp.frontiernet.net!nntp.gctr.net!news.frontiernet.net!not-for-mail From: "busybee" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: real beeswax comb Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 06:24:45 -0500 Organization: Frontier GlobalCenter Inc. Lines: 50 Message-ID: <8jfbgd$uvo$1@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net> References: <20000629042336.01817.00000631@ng-fs1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 209-130-165-83.nas2.lec.gblx.net X-Trace: node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net 962277709 31736 209.130.165.83 (29 Jun 2000 11:21:49 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@frontiernet.net NNTP-Posting-Date: 29 Jun 2000 11:21:49 GMT X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25798 Letting a drone bee crawl around on your hand is a real attention getter! You will get a wide range of reactions like "gross", "AAAAAHHH!!!", WOW" or "cool!" You will be able to pick your candidates to help in your demo/talk by their reaction...which is also a plus. Letting them try on gloves, veil or a suit will boost interest and questions. I've used my version of "Who Wants to Be a Bee-illionaire" game with an audience...works well if everyone can move around the room. Ask easy multiple choice questions, give a,b,c, and d choices...a's stand together, b's stand together etc. then eliminate incorrect groups by having the individuals be seated. After 10 questions (or until you have one remaining contestant), I give the winner a small jar of honey. ***Have a few tie breaker questions ready or prepare for a few winners (depending on whether you gave your talk before or after your talk and how well they paid attention). E.mail me if you want the questions and multiple choice answers that I used for our 4H demonstration--contestants ranged in age from 5-18 and their parents. My "Bee-illionaire" was a 10 year old boy who was so exited to win that jar of honey! Who knows, maybe in a few years he'll be wanting to start a hive or two. Best tip--You be enthusiastic...keep it simple, talk to their level (don't need to talk about things like the life-cycle of a Varroa mite or the effects of chalkbrood on a hive) and be flexible! If you seem to be loosing them...switch gears. Use lots of visuals and sensory and I'll guarantee there will be total audience amazement and many questions for you to answer! Hope this helps-- Busybee Have a LKLarson1 wrote in message <20000629042336.01817.00000631@ng-fs1.aol.com>... >Any ideas on how to get my bees to build an interesting comb to take to school >age children's classes so to pass it around and show them what the real "McCoy" >looks like? I'd like to do this besides giving them my little talk, showing >them the observation hive, making some candles and tasting some honey. > >By the way, any educational suggestions for presentations to classrooms--ideas, >techniques, "catchy facts" you've used in your presentations to groups? > >Thanks. > > Article 25799 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: rec01rec@my-deja.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: not filling comb - staying to one side but making honey Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 23:50:55 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 63 Message-ID: <8je30q$61n$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <8jbpch$e1e$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.147.175.138 X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Jun 28 23:50:55 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 5.0; Windows 98; DigExt) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x73.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 24.147.175.138 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDrec01rec Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25799 Hi Geo, I installed them May 6...was really cold and rainy for about a month after that...past 2-3 weeks temps have been good mostly... ron In article , "George Styer" wrote: > Turn your inner cover over, you have it on upside down and that is why you > are getting the burr comb. You will notice that the other side (the rough > one) provides less of a gap. > > Move your division board feeder to the other side of the hive, where the > bees are. > > How long ago did you install the package? Without knowing this, it is > impossible to make a determination regarding the build-up. > > -- > Geo > Sacramento, in California's great Central Valley > "Honey is sweet but the bee stings" > gstyLer@worldnet.att.net > To reply via e-mail get the "L" out of there > > wrote in message news:8jbpch$e1e$1@nnrp1.deja.com... > > Hi, curious about what I saw today. > > > > Weather in New England was bad until a few weeks ago..since then the > > bees have been busy. Today I opened the hive expecting them to have > > filled the comb out in all the frames...what I found was funy...they > > had maybe filled out an additional frame but there was honey on top of > > the frames (not in the tops but ON top) and they hadn't filled out any > > more frames. They seem to be staying in a clump on the left side of the > > hive and not filling frams on the right side. They are obviously > > reproducing and everything but not filling all the frames! > > > > Should they have? Should I add the 2nd brood chamber (I did), or move > > unfinished frames towards the clump of bees on the left hoping they > > will begin working on them? > > > > Pics available at http://www.rec.cnchost.com/bees/dsc00029a.jpg and > > http://www.rec.cnchost.com/bees/ (last 5 picks are recent fron this > > time) > > > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > > Before you buy. > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25800 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.via.net!news.he.net!sn-xit-03!supernews.com!sn-inject-01!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail From: AL Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: real beeswax comb Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 12:28:45 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Lines: 34 Message-ID: <395CD8CD.CA1C7F88@midwest.net> References: <20000629042336.01817.00000631@ng-fs1.aol.com> X-Complaints-To: newsabuse@supernews.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25800 There was mention of an observation hive. Seems to me the empty frame might work there as well. AL Peter Amschel wrote: > > If you are using langstroth frames you might try leaving one of the > frames in the hive without any foundation wax or wires and the bees might > draw down some normal comb for you in that frame. Also, burr comb is > normal comb, if you ask me. > > In article <20000629042336.01817.00000631@ng-fs1.aol.com>, > lklarson1@aol.com says... > > Any ideas on how to get my bees to build an interesting comb to take to school > > age children's classes so to pass it around and show them what the real "McCoy" > > looks like? I'd like to do this besides giving them my little talk, showing > > them the observation hive, making some candles and tasting some honey. > > > > By the way, any educational suggestions for presentations to classrooms--ideas, > > techniques, "catchy facts" you've used in your presentations to groups? > > > > Thanks. > > > > > > Article 25801 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!headwall.stanford.edu!unlnews.unl.edu!newsfeed.ksu.edu!nntp.ksu.edu!news.okstate.edu!not-for-mail From: Gary Johns Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: not filling comb - staying to one side but making honey Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 08:49:00 -0500 Organization: Oklahoma State University Lines: 26 Message-ID: <395A024C.71493470@okstate.edu> References: <8jbpch$e1e$1@nnrp1.deja.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: x8b4e76e3.dhcp.okstate.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25801 Hi rec01rec: I'm in my second year of bees. I'm no expert but I'll take a stab at it. 1. Take 2-3 frames from the right side of the hive and scoot the 3-4 frames the bees are on over into the middle. Then put the fresh frames and foundation back in the space left from their old location. 2. The honey on top of the frames is called 'burr' comb. Try reversing your inner cover (put the side with the burr comb on it now, facing up away from the interior of the hive). You want 1 bee space (approx. 3/8") between the top of the frames and your inner cover. It may look like it's too close but try it and see if that dosen't cut down on the burr comb some. You may still have some but it's easy to scrape off and put on a dish out front for them to eat. 3. I would take the second brood super off until they've got 8-9 frames pulled out on the bottom one. 4. Cut the bushes to the right of the hive. They need a clear entrance and this could interfere with their flight pattern. Happy honeying! Gary J. Article 25803 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.deja.com!nnrp1.deja.com!not-for-mail From: kamtout@together.net Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Cross combs Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 20:52:08 GMT Organization: Deja.com - Before you buy. Lines: 16 Message-ID: <8jj19f$rq8$1@nnrp1.deja.com> References: <8j936g$cr3$1@nnrp1.deja.com> <20000627185823.01363.00000142@ng-bh1.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.144.236.186 X-Article-Creation-Date: Fri Jun 30 20:52:08 2000 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.7 [en] (WinNT; U) X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x70.deja.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 199.144.236.186 X-MyDeja-Info: XMYDJUIDkamtout Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25803 In article <20000627185823.01363.00000142@ng-bh1.aol.com>, bluetaz37@aol.com (Blue Taz37) wrote: > > > >Are you using Pierco's? > > What is a Pierco's? Sorry New stuff for me. > > Pierco is the name of a company that makes all plastic frames/foundations, in one piece. the bees don't all do well in plastic. Are you using plastic foundation then? Mike Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy. Article 25804 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.qis.net!feed1.news.rcn.net!rcn!not-for-mail From: "Angela & Keith Copi" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: kudzu Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 20:14:59 -0400 Lines: 5 Message-ID: <8jjd1s$l4e$1@bob.news.rcn.net> X-Trace: TYzvyxpLV2+9CI2SlNUWjoBAevUSagAI2qOls0lKUGg= X-Complaints-To: abuse@rcn.com NNTP-Posting-Date: 1 Jul 2000 00:12:44 GMT X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Priority: 3 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25804 Does anyone happen to know if honey bees work kudzu flowers? Keith Article 25805 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.eecis.udel.edu!netnews.com!europa.netcrusader.net!152.163.239.131!portc03.blue.aol.com!audrey04.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lklarson1@aol.com (LKLarson1) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: real beeswax comb Lines: 11 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 29 Jun 2000 08:23:36 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <20000629042336.01817.00000631@ng-fs1.aol.com> Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25805 Any ideas on how to get my bees to build an interesting comb to take to school age children's classes so to pass it around and show them what the real "McCoy" looks like? I'd like to do this besides giving them my little talk, showing them the observation hive, making some candles and tasting some honey. By the way, any educational suggestions for presentations to classrooms--ideas, techniques, "catchy facts" you've used in your presentations to groups? Thanks. Article 25806 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping: Path: news2.isis.unc.edu!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!atlas.lcc.net!usenet From: "nomad" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Bee Candy Recipe? Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:27:52 -0500 Organization: LCC Internet Lines: 22 Message-ID: <8jjvk2$c4a@atlas.lcc.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: ncgd-pri2-a73.txucom.net X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Xref: news2.isis.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:25806 Can anyone tell me a good formula for making "bee candy" used for feeding bees and sealing queen cages? Also I noticed that a recipe for feeding bees called for powered sugar WITHOUT cornstarch; do they make such a thing, where could I find it, and is it really important enough for me to worry about. I think the recipe (maybe it was for dry pollen sub) was in TH&THB. I'm also curious where I could find a small supply of HFCS; i just have 6 hives and a don't need a tanker load. Is the stuff in the supermarket useable? Many thanks -- to : My email mirrors my name: damon :: nomad