From beecrofter@aol.comBee Tue Mar 2 21:22:22 EST 1999 Article: 15996 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc04.blue.aol.com!audrey03.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Ammonia for propolis Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 1 Mar 1999 02:13:00 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com References: <36D9D6D8.2A392A93@worldnet.att.net> Message-ID: <19990228211300.15428.00001811@ng98.aol.com> Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15996 Amonnia reacts chemically with wax and propolis. As far as I know alcohol only disolves propolis. Tom There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com From Griffes@my-dejanews.com Tue Mar 2 21:22:23 EST 1999 Article: 15997 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!204.238.120.130!news-feeds.jump.net!nntp2.dejanews.com!nnrp1.dejanews.com!not-for-mail From: Griffes@my-dejanews.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: one or two Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 03:21:04 GMT Organization: Deja News - The Leader in Internet Discussion Lines: 20 Message-ID: <7b7oaq$g9r$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com> References: <7b4srt$2os$1@news.ipa.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 198.108.56.28 X-Article-Creation-Date: Sat Feb 27 03:21:04 1999 GMT X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 4.0; Windows 95) X-Http-Proxy: 1.1 x12.dejanews.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 198.108.56.28 Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15997 In article <7b4srt$2os$1@news.ipa.net>, "R & S Adams" wrote: > I was wondering how other beekeepers feel about one brood box or two? Some > pros and cons would bee nice R.P. Adams Three Deeps beat Two and Two beats One for overwintering. IMO multiple Mediums beat multiple Deeps for overwintering - Three or (better yet) Four Mediums is my recommendation. And a fringe benefit is - they aren't as heavy so your back will thank you - plus you can have "just one size" of equipment. Jack Griffes jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com Country Jack's Honeybee Farm Onsted, MI USA http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/ -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own From bill_daniels@bellsouth.net Tue Mar 2 21:22:24 EST 1999 Article: 15998 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.atl!upstream.atl!news3.mco.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <36D81D39.7FB4FCF3@bellsouth.net> From: "bill_daniels@bellsouth.net" X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Buckfast for beginner? Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lines: 10 Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 16:28:44 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: host-209-214-198-8.mem.bellsouth.net NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 11:28:44 EST Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15998 Do the characteristics of buckfast bees make them appropriate for a beginning beekeeper? Are any of the hybrids better for beginners than regular Italians? I don't think I will want to use any bees that tend to gum things up with propolis since I will probably be tentative opening the hive and moving things around anyway. Any suggestions? Bill Daniels From furges@rica.net Tue Mar 2 21:22:24 EST 1999 Article: 15999 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.slurp.net!not-for-mail Message-ID: <36DA161F.8397AECD@rica.net> From: Thomas Furgeson X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en] (Win95; I) MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Spring Feeding Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------85C91E81ADADB96F9FADD3B3" Lines: 33 Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 23:22:56 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 208.1.108.122 X-Trace: newsfeed.slurp.net 920262271 208.1.108.122 (Sun, 28 Feb 1999 22:24:31 CDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 22:24:31 CDT Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15999 --------------85C91E81ADADB96F9FADD3B3 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm coming out of my first winter with 3 hives started in 98, thought I left my hives with plenty of store, but I'm concerned they might be running low. I'd really appreciate any response to the following: What is a good, nutritious pre-flow food that I can mix up and give them until flow begins? Is suagr syrup adequate? Also, regarding a pollen substitute: there is mention of such a sub in Dadant's primer, but one of the ingredients is 'animal-type brewer's yeast' (is this just feed-grade stuff?), and the other is 'expeller-processed' soybean flour. Any takers? Thanks for any respnse. Tom --------------85C91E81ADADB96F9FADD3B3 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm coming out of my first winter with 3 hives started in 98, thought I left my hives with plenty of store, but I'm concerned they might be running low. I'd really appreciate
any response to the following: What is a good, nutritious pre-flow food that I can mix up and give them until flow begins? Is suagr syrup adequate? Also, regarding a pollen substitute: there is mention of such a sub in Dadant's primer, but one of the ingredients is 'animal-type brewer's yeast' (is this just feed-grade stuff?), and the other is 'expeller-processed' soybean flour. Any takers? Thanks for any respnse. Tom --------------85C91E81ADADB96F9FADD3B3-- From lauramleek@aol.com Tue Mar 2 21:22:25 EST 1999 Article: 16000 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc04.blue.aol.com!audrey03.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lauramleek@aol.com (LauraMLeek) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Proposal - What I have Learned Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 1 Mar 1999 05:16:42 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com References: <7bbvje$s6a$1@fir.prod.itd.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <19990301001642.02058.00001832@ng29.aol.com> Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16000 Well, gee beeguy, I was gonna post a message letting Laser guy know he forgot to remove the spam trap in your address. That your address is working just great but since you have now insulted me because I have an AOL address. To hell with ya! Been on the web over 5 years, have aol because I am trying to teach a Woman 72 yrs. young how to go online and I thought AOL would be the easist to start with. OH Well! Laura From honey.road@sympatico.ca Tue Mar 2 21:22:26 EST 1999 Article: 16001 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!news3.bellglobal.com!news1.bellglobal.com!news21.bellglobal.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Message-ID: <36D97B5B.856583AF@sympatico.ca> From: honey.road@sympatico.ca Organization: My Beekeeping Homepage - http://www3.sympatico.ca/honey.road X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Spring Feeding References: <36DA161F.8397AECD@rica.net> Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------239DDBCB04C77A425F10A72F" Lines: 56 Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 12:22:37 -0500 NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.172.183.136 X-Trace: news21.bellglobal.com 920265873 206.172.183.136 (Mon, 01 Mar 1999 00:24:33 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 00:24:33 EDT Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16001 --------------239DDBCB04C77A425F10A72F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Thomas, I'm in the same boat your in, 3 hives started last year. Locals recomed using a 2:1 syrup to start, and then continue with 1:1 >from their on in. But watch, and make sure you don't over feed, as if the bees fill to much of the available cells, they might swarm. As far as the pollen sub goes, if the bees are flying, watch them and see if they are bringing any pollen in. I was helping a local last year in late march, and they were already finding pollen, by the load full. Allen B. Thomas Furgeson wrote: > I'm coming out of my first winter with 3 hives started in 98, thought > I left my hives with plenty of store, but I'm concerned they might be > running low. I'd really appreciate > any response to the following: What is a good, nutritious pre-flow > food that I can mix up and give them until flow begins? Is suagr syrup > adequate? Also, regarding a pollen substitute: there is mention of > such a sub in Dadant's primer, but one of the ingredients is > 'animal-type brewer's yeast' (is this just feed-grade stuff?), and the > other is 'expeller-processed' soybean flour. Any takers? Thanks for > any respnse. Tom --------------239DDBCB04C77A425F10A72F Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Thomas, I'm in the same boat your in, 3 hives started last year.  Locals recomed using a 2:1 syrup to start, and then continue with 1:1 from their on in.  But watch, and make sure you don't over feed, as if the bees fill to much of the available cells, they might swarm.  As far as the pollen sub goes,  if the bees are flying, watch them and see if they are bringing any pollen in.  I was helping a local last year in late march, and they were already finding pollen, by the load full.

Allen B.

Thomas Furgeson wrote:

 I'm coming out of my first winter with 3 hives started in 98, thought I left my hives with plenty of store, but I'm concerned they might be running low. I'd really appreciate
any response to the following: What is a good, nutritious pre-flow food that I can mix up and give them until flow begins? Is suagr syrup adequate? Also, regarding a pollen substitute: there is mention of such a sub in Dadant's primer, but one of the ingredients is 'animal-type brewer's yeast' (is this just feed-grade stuff?), and the other is 'expeller-processed' soybean flour. Any takers? Thanks for any respnse. Tom
--------------239DDBCB04C77A425F10A72F-- From cde049@airmail.net Tue Mar 2 21:22:26 EST 1999 Article: 16002 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!worldfeed.news.gte.net!news.airnews.net!cabal11.airnews.net!cabal1.airnews.net!news-f.iadfw.net!usenet From: "dewitt" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Now What? Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 10:25:12 -0600 Organization: Airnews.net! at Internet America Lines: 23 Message-ID: <26358145164134D7.DD2D84920587F1A5.8657E064A9F6692D@library-proxy.airnews.net> X-Orig-Message-ID: <7bef37$bh9@library.airnews.net> Abuse-Reports-To: abuse at airmail.net to report improper postings NNTP-Proxy-Relay: library.airnews.net NNTP-Posting-Time: Mon Mar 1 10:26:15 1999 NNTP-Posting-Host: !\PoI1k-XEmT)Mq (Encoded at Airnews!) X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3155.0 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3155.0 Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16002 I have assembled and painted (only the out side of my hive boxes, light tanish color made up of my neighbors professional exterior left overs) my new hives, using glue and screws one in each box joint. I have assembled all 100 frames, installed the wire eyelets, and installed Dadant wired foundation in 40 of them , Saving the rest till needed. I have wire to hold the foundation in place. Now how do I install it? I have painted the bottom boards and have them on cinderblocks to keep them off the ground. Should I use one course or two of blocks, or should I build a wooden frame to hold two or three hives higher off the ground? No large mammals (except neighbor hood kids) but lots of skunks (not to be confused with neighborhood kids), and Armadillos (they don't all sleep on the sides of the roads.) The old hive boxes have been in sight for two years now and everyone on the block thinks I have had bees all that time, Even got some complaints about bees took that neighbor and showed her the boxes didn't even have frames in them. (she has been real nice since.) Saw some three banded bees working dandelions yesterday, Still a month before my single level full sized nuc boxes arrive. Can hardly wait. Is there anything else besides reading that I should do till then? Cliff From apipop@club-internet.fr Tue Mar 2 21:22:27 EST 1999 Article: 16003 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news-feed.fnsi.net!WCG!198.6.0.215!uunet!ffx.uu.net!in1.uu.net!grolier!club-internet!not-for-mail From: "Jean-Claude Treyvaud" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Formic acid Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 22:33:53 +0100 Organization: Club-Internet (France) Lines: 15 Message-ID: <7b9odm$mvr$1@front1.grolier.fr> References: <01be5872$6bc2d800$de5654ce@default> NNTP-Posting-Host: montpellier-1-223.club-internet.fr X-Trace: front1.grolier.fr 920151286 23547 195.36.180.223 (27 Feb 1999 21:34:46 GMT) NNTP-Posting-Date: 27 Feb 1999 21:34:46 GMT X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.5 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16003 According to informations given by Jos Guth at the Beekeeping French National Congress held in Dijon France (oct. 98), a minimum of 20 ml must be evaporated per day. Over 40 ml during sunny hot days was not damaging to the Queen. I red these info from the French Bee Magazine (l'Abeille de France) dated Jan. 1999. I presume 60 percent solution was used (sold in beekeeping stores). Regards. marcelo schueck a écrit dans le message <01be5872$6bc2d800$de5654ce@default>... >I would like to know how much formic acid must evaporate per day to be >effective against Varroa. > Marcelo Schuck >apis@entelchile.net From bill.greenrose@valley.net Tue Mar 2 21:22:28 EST 1999 Article: 16004 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!feeder.qis.net!yellow.newsread.com!netaxs.com!newsread.com!uunet!ffx.uu.net!in2.uu.net!sol.caps.maine.edu!dartvax.dartmouth.edu!not-for-mail From: Bill Greenrose Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Buckfast for beginner? Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 19:28:55 -0500 Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH, USA Lines: 39 Message-ID: <36D88DC7.937AF469@valley.net> References: <36D81D39.7FB4FCF3@bellsouth.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: v2-p-106.valley.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en] (Win95; I) Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16004 bill_daniels@bellsouth.net wrote: > Do the characteristics of buckfast bees make them appropriate for a > beginning beekeeper? Are any of the hybrids better for beginners than > regular Italians? I don't think I will want to use any bees that tend > to gum things up with propolis since I will probably be tentative > opening the hive and moving things around anyway. > > Any suggestions? > > Bill Daniels greetings, i started with buckfasts two years ago, and i really like them: very hard working, even in relatively cool weather and very gentle. in two years i've been stung once, and that was when i was mowing the lawn, not paying attention, and walked into their flight path. poor girl flew right into my face by accident. i worked that same hive a couple of hours later, and they were as gentle as usual. in that same time frame, i've been stung by yellow jackets 3 times, while working my garden or mowing the lawn. maybe that's why i take a small measure of satisfaction, when i see the girls clobber a yj that's dumb enough to try and gain entry into one of their hives. just a small measure though; yj's have their place in the scheme of things, too. hope this helps, bill ########################################## don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player bill.greenrose@valley.net [home] greenros@medicalmedia.com [work] http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397 From bs137588@skynet.be Tue Mar 2 21:22:28 EST 1999 Article: 16005 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!aruba.odu.edu!reznor.larc.nasa.gov!news.msfc.nasa.gov!news.maxwell.syr.edu!diablo.theplanet.net!dispose.news.demon.net!demon!newsfeed.ecrc.net!skynet.be!poster!not-for-mail From: "FM" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Looking 4 Links Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 18:17:57 +0100 Organization: Belgacom Skynet SA/NV Message-ID: <7b99d9$51j$1@news1.skynet.be> References: <7b7oaf$8ij$1@duke.telepac.pt> NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup142.namur.skynet.be X-Trace: news1.skynet.be 920135913 5171 195.238.8.142 (27 Feb 1999 17:18:33 GMT) X-Complaints-To: abuse@skynet.be NNTP-Posting-Date: 27 Feb 1999 17:18:33 GMT X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.5 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Lines: 7 Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16005 See a site about Beekeeping in Belgium: http://users.skynet.be/urrw best regards. From redjasper9@aol.com Tue Mar 2 21:22:29 EST 1999 Article: 16006 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!newsfeed.cv.nrao.edu!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc04.blue.aol.com!audrey03.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: redjasper9@aol.com (Redjasper9) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: used hives Lines: 4 NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com X-Admin: news@aol.com Date: 28 Feb 1999 12:11:59 GMT Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com Message-ID: <19990228071159.17380.00001311@ng09.aol.com> Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16006 Thanks for the info on used hives. They are questionable so I ordered new frames. Steve From beespamguy@NOTearthlink.net Tue Mar 2 21:22:30 EST 1999 Article: 16007 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!aruba.odu.edu!reznor.larc.nasa.gov!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!newsfeed1.earthlink.net!nntp.earthlink.net!posted-from-earthlink!basement From: beespamguy@NOTearthlink.net (Mushroom) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Protecting hive Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 08:01:02 GMT X-ELN-Insert-Date: Sun Feb 28 00:05:22 1999 References: <4VnB2.8984$po.3923@c01read02.service.talkway.com> X-Newsreader: News Xpress 2.01 Organization: EarthLink Network, Inc. X-Posted-Path-Was: basement Lines: 12 NNTP-Posting-Host: sdn-ar-002inindip179.dialsprint.net X-ELN-Date: 28 Feb 1999 08:01:06 GMT Message-ID: <7bat42$mto$1@fir.prod.itd.earthlink.net> Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16007 In article <4VnB2.8984$po.3923@c01read02.service.talkway.com>, "jmichaelr" wrote: > >My daughter is moving onto a mountain tract in western NC. She wants >to move her hive onto the property, but has found some bear tracks on >the property. Is there a way to electrically fence in the hive to keep >bears from raiding it? Is there some other way to protect the hive? Yes, and I believe if you talk to ( or look at ) Brushy Mountian they will be able to point you towards a fence elctifier OR a alam system for scareing off animals. From ian@hodkinson.force9.co.uk Tue Mar 2 21:22:31 EST 1999 Article: 16008 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!newsfeed.cv.nrao.edu!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!btnet-peer!btnet-feed1!btnet!landlord!wards.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "ogg" Subject: Re: Drone Foundation Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping References: <36D96139.354AB050@fidnet.com> Message-ID: <01be6341$0fd390a0$5282a6c3@default> X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1161 Lines: 13 Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 17:42:14 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 195.166.130.82 X-Complaints-To: abuse@plus.net.uk X-Trace: wards 920223734 195.166.130.82 (Sun, 28 Feb 1999 17:42:14 BST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 17:42:14 BST Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16008 John Brackman wrote in article <36D96139.354AB050@fidnet.com>... > Does anybody know of a source of foundation pre-printed for drone brood? > Although requests have suddenly increased, (I assume due to that drone > brood-varroa study) the fellows at Dadant were not making it. I'm sure they do > http://www.thorne.co.uk ogg From agriscan@hotmail.com Tue Mar 2 21:22:31 EST 1999 Article: 16009 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!interpath.net!nntp.news.xara.net!xara.net!news-feed.inet.tele.dk!bofh.vszbr.cz!join.news.pipex.net!pipex!duke.telepac.pt!news.telepac.pt!not-for-mail From: "João Rocha" Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Looking 4 Links Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 22:20:33 -0000 Lines: 5 Message-ID: <7bfm09$hdv$1@duke.telepac.pt> References: <7b7oaf$8ij$1@duke.telepac.pt> <7b99d9$51j$1@news1.skynet.be> NNTP-Posting-Host: 194.65.206.138 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.5 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16009 thank you for your contribution. João Rocha From jim@newsguy.com Tue Mar 2 21:22:32 EST 1999 Article: 16010 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!uunet!ffx.uu.net!in1.uu.net!nntp.ntr.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.berkeley.edu!pln-w!spln!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!edrn From: jim Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Minimalist Honey Processing? Date: 1 Mar 1999 19:35:54 -0800 Organization: Extra Newsguy News Service [http://extra.newsguy.com] Lines: 136 Message-ID: <7bfmaq$jev@edrn.newsguy.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p-810.newsdawg.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16010 I have yet to extract honey. I am planning to do start this season. I am trying to do this "on a budget", and need some opinions and sage-like advice. There are a number of steps that appear to be "essential" to the large-scale honeyhouse, but are skipped by many of the (smaller) old-timers. In contrast, some old timers have sumps the size of hot-tubs, and motorized extractors that remind me of the early Mercury one-man spacecraft. I am torn by the multiple approaches. I can implement a simple gravity-feed system, since I have the luxury of space (a old small-scale farm creamery from the 1920s) that can be dedicated to the operation. I need neither pumps nor sumps. I even have hot/cold water, large sinks, lots of counter space, and nice white tile everywhere! What would be the simplest and lowest-capital approach to the following, or which, in your personal experience, are non-essential for processing of extracted honey and packaging for a small-scale (under a dozen hives) beekeeper who might go to 20 hives at most? 1) Heating The Extractor. There seems to be a fixation on "120 degrees F" on "heat" issues, and I can see the advantages of helping the honey to flow faster. Given that I have a brand-new stainless steel 9-frame radial extractor, I wonder what solutions others have found to avoid paying the high price of a "pro-grade" heater. 2) Moisture-Content Reduction. Yes, I can run a dehumidifier 24 x 7 in season, but what ambient room relative humidity would be best for the processing of extracted honey? An A/C unit would also remove much moisture from the air, but the trade-off would be a lower room temperature, which would make more work for any honey heater of any type. Since honey, when opened by the eater, will likely attain the ambient humidity within hours or days once the bottle is opened, to what purpose do I attempt to control either the humidity of the processing area OR the moisture content of the honey? 3) Moisture-Content Measurement. Ouch. Roughly $120 to $350 for a honey refractometer. How to do this without laying out so much money? Does any small-timer EVER pay off their capital investment? Old-timers certainly never had these gizmos, was their honey sometimes substandard as a result? 4) Heating For Clairifying. Once again, I can see the advantages of heating at the filtration stage (I will use the "stacked plastic buckets" approach, since this allows the use of low cost 5-gal plastic buckets for the interim storage and bottling steps, and even allows low cost "parallel processing" with multiple bottomless filter buckets. Brushy Mountain sells a heater for this purpose - what do others use? 5) Heating In General. There seem to be multiple schools of thought. Some suggest NO heating, or the minimum needed to get honey to move on a cool night or day, some want to get the honey to 120 degrees as a way to increase shelf life and reduce crystalization. My goal is to "turn around" filled supers same-day and thus minimize super/frame counts, so I cannot simply stack filled supers up and "wait for a warm day". 6) Honey Gates/Honey Valves. The plastic honey gates suggested for plastic buckets are nearly identical to the plastic gate on my extractor. These look fine for open/close/on/off control, but I fear a mess when bottling caused by a less than perfect user (that would be me) trying to close the gate without overfilling the bottle, and overflowing. Is there an inexpensive version of the metal valves sold by the usual suspects (Dadant, Brushy Mtn, Mann Lake) for bottling? 7) Uncapping Mess Reduction. I am an engineer by trade, so I sat down and designed what I thought would be a good approach to "uncapping". I was both surprised and delighted to see the "Hackler Punch" in Brushy Mtn's catalog, since this was an even simpler version of what I had sketched in my notepad during a boring meeting. Has anyone used this device? Opinions? It seems "clear" to me that this would be much less "destructive" of comb, and result in a faster turn-around from filled frames, to extraction, and back to the bee yard, hence to be filled again. If this device works as claimed, why has it not obsoleted the uncapping knife? 8) Winter Storage Of Supers. I was thinking of inspecting the heck out of each and every frame, adding the anti-moth compound dujour, and wrapping a shoulder-high stack of supers/frames in the clear plastic "saran wrap" used on loading docks to wrap around boxes on a pallet. The mammals would be held at bay by bottoms/tops of stacks, the plastic is to keep our bees' insect friends away. Comments? Sorry if these questions are too basic, too long, or too silly. Cutting up comb was so simple and equipment-free, all I needed was a few cookie sheets! ------- Also, what is the impact velocity of a typical bee against the interior of a "Big Johnson Bee Vac" when one uses such a device? I have several vacumn cleaners with different motor sizes, ranging from a Dirt-Devil to a serious shop-vac, and wonder if anyone has used this device, and has a suggestion as to min/max vacumn-cleaner horsepower or amperage. There is a swarm in the walls of a friend's house, and we can borrow a long "in the wall" vacumn hose from yet another neighbor, but I would rather not kill the bees when removing them. 
 


From ogk@belaz.minsk.by Tue Mar  2 21:22:33 EST 1999
Article: 16011 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Aleksandr Sukhinin 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: How it to make?
Date: 2 Mar 1999 08:39:23 +0200
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If you saw the drawings of shaft mechanism for reception waxed or to
make shaft?

Please e-mail me.




From adamf@vt.edu Tue Mar  2 21:22:33 EST 1999
Article: 16012 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@golux.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: one or two
Date: 2 Mar 1999 06:50:20 -0000
Organization: Self-Organized.      Dig that.
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In article <7b6kmi$g0j$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com>,   wrote:
>
>C'mon Adam... Share.

Okay. Pardon my delay.

If you read the following first:

Harbo and Harris. 1988. Selecting honey bees (Hymenoptera: Apidae) in the
United States that express resistance to _Varroa jacobsoni_ (Mesostigmata:
Varroidae). Journal of Economic Entomology. 90: 893-898.

Harbo, J.R. et al. 1997. Evaluating honey bees for resistance to varroa
mites: procedures and results. American Bee Journal. 137: 223-224.

Harbo and Harris. 1998. Selecting honey bees for suppression of the
reproduction of _Varroa jacobsoni_. American Bee Journal. 138: 295-296.


You'll get the background for the newer articles in press that Dr.
Harbo is publishing. He and his colleagues have shown that selecting for
certain phenotypes that show tolerance to varroa's parasitism, is feasible
(via acceptable heritability indexes) and that via selective breeding,
the traits that make these desirable phenotypes, can be enhanced.

Since Harbo hasn't officially published this work yet, I'll defer to him
and not cite the work, but look for a citation from me here as soon as the
articles are actually published.

How do I get to know this you might ask? Well I work for the USDA and so
does Dr. Harbo. :)

Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein                   
adamf@vt.edu              
http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf


From adamf@titan.oit.unc.edu Tue Mar  2 21:28:53 EST 1999
Article: 16013 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@titan.oit.unc.edu (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Proposal - What I have Learned
Date: 2 Mar 1999 21:28:24 -0500
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In article <7bbvje$s6a$1@fir.prod.itd.earthlink.net>,
Mushroom  wrote:
>
> And aol accounts are an indication of the the clueless.
> I wasn't asking for your critique of my privacy concerns, simply if the 
>information may be welcome. So now drag your mouse over to 'delete' and go 
>away, welcome to my killfile. 
>

Wow. You've won the first public killfile award in this newsgroup.
Adam
-- 
___________________________________________________________________________
Adam Finkelstein               Internet Apiculture and Beekeeping Archive
adamf@metalab.unc.edu          http://metalab.unc.edu/bees 


From abchome@webzone.net Wed Mar  3 13:05:20 EST 1999
Article: 16014 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Donald Franson 
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As a queen breeder I use drone foundation because I need a large number of
drones
It is available for a short time only through betterbee (518)692-9669 but is
is rather expensive ($20.00 for 10 sheets)  they tell me that when they sell
out that they will not carry it anymore.

Good luck
Donald

________________

John Brackman wrote:

> Does anybody know of a source of foundation pre-printed for drone brood?
> Although requests have suddenly increased, (I assume due to that drone
> brood-varroa study) the fellows at Dadant were not making it.



From beeman@NOSPAMkingston.net Wed Mar  3 13:05:21 EST 1999
Article: 16015 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Kent Stienburg 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Confused Season
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 14:43:05 -0800
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countrymeadow@ibm.net wrote:
> 
> I was inspecting my hives this weekend and found one hive queenless. I
> do not have a queen to place in the hive. What is there to do? I did
> move a frame with eggs for one of the other hives. My fear is that if
> they raise a queen will she be able to mate? 
> The second issue is when to super. 

Hi Garland,

As far as being queenless this early in the season.  Short of trying to
order a queen from a southern breeder.  I think you did all you could.
If you get think things are getting worse you could also try uniting the
colonies. If the warm weather keeps up and the food is coming in.   I
place a super on the hive immediatly after I remove the Apistan and I
try to get it in the hives as early as I can.  I think Aaron is right
"super now".
-- 
Kent Stienburg
Remove NOSPAM to reply.


From gstyLer@worldnet.att.net Wed Mar  3 13:05:21 EST 1999
Article: 16016 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "George Styer" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Queen rearing started
Date: 28 Feb 1999 17:35:08 GMT
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A month or so ago I asked the group for some recommendations to a hobbyist
wanting to try rearing some queens. The goal of the exercise is primarily
for the educational value but also to produce some queens for some splits.
Thanks to all that provided lots of useful information.

Here is a brief update:

I began stimulative feeding with 1:1 sugar syrup Feb 1st. In the almost 4
weeks since then, brood rearing has taken off and lots of bright yellow
pollen has been coming in. Inspection last weekend revealed lots of sealed
frames in the "breeder" hive, but few drone emerged or sealed. This hive
has also been extremely productive and gentle. The other hive contained
less sealed brood but lots of emerged drones and sealed drone brood. This
hive contains my oldest frames (7th year) which I suppose accounts in some
measure for the drones. There was also allot if ladder comb between the 2
deeps stuffed with drones.

OK, so lots protein, good stores, adequate weather (mid 60's), and lots of
drones that will be sexually mature by the time any new queens are ready to
mate.

Today I put a Miller frame in the top deep of into the breeder hive above a
queen excluder. Still feeding 1:1 syrup. The drone source colony got a 3rd
deep with foundation because I thought they were looking a little crowded
and maybe gearing up to produce some queen cells for swarming.

I'll check the Miller frame next weekend to see if it has been laid up.

BTW Jack, my idea to put the queen cells sandwiched between frames of
pollen and honey didn't come from Taber. It was Laidlaw, but I think now he
was speaking of swarm boxes. At any rate your comment made me chuckle and
I'll go with a brood sandwich!
 -- 
Geo
Honey is sweet, but the bee stings.
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
Get the "L" out to reply via e-mail!


From beecrofter@aol.comBee Wed Mar  3 13:05:22 EST 1999
Article: 16017 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Minimalist Honey Processing?
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#7  The Hackler Honey Punch
What a piece of garbage clogs with wax requires a pot of hot water is slow etc.
An uncapping fork is worlds better.


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


From beecrofter@aol.comBee Thu Mar  4 11:20:59 EST 1999
Article: 16018 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: "Hackler Punch" vs. Uncapping Knives
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   There must be some practicle use for a Hackler Punch - I just have yet to
find it in the beekeeping field..
IMO the least comb damage is a cappings fork. 


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


From amschelp@pe.net Thu Mar  4 11:20:59 EST 1999
Article: 16019 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Minimalist Honey Processing?
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 22:04:43 -0800
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Some smart ideas, Pascal, thanks for sharing. "Dry honey"? I never 
thought of that before. Is "dry honey" where your process reaches the 
point where the container doesn't lose any more weight, at step #6 in 
your process?
Since you work closely with the comb, Pascal, you probably carefully 
select only the pieces of comb with capped honey, right? If you select 
only capped comb for processing don't you automatically get dry honey? I 
thought the wet honey resulted when the beekeepers would spin a frame 
when the frame had capped honey but also where there were many areas of 
the frame where the cells were filled with nectar so that the resulting 
product was mixed with significant amounts of nectar?



In article <36DC1581.78F01D1A@globetrotter.net>, 
pascal66@globetrotter.net says...
> jim wrote:
> 
> > 3) Moisture-Content Measurement. Ouch. Roughly $120 to $350 for a honey refractometer. How to do this without laying out so much money? Does any small-timer EVER pay off their capital investment? Old-timers certainly never had these gizmos, was their honey sometimes substandard as a result?
> >
> I use an old dual plate balance and little weights (payed CAN$30,00 in a
> fleemarket but allow precision around 1 gr.).
> 
>    (1). weight a standard mason jar precisely.
>     (2).put 1 Kilogramme (or any standard weight that fill the jar, the
> most you brings in, the most precise your measurement will be)
>     (3). bring tht mason jar in your oven and then start the oven at LOW
> level and maintain it epon (I place a forke in the door)
>     (4).3 hours later, weight the mason jar and bring in back in the
> oven.
>     (5).1 hours later, weight it again. If the weight has changed more
> than 1 gr, run operation (5) again.
>     (6). the last weight you obtain is the one you use for the
> calculation:
> 
>                 weight dry (6) - mason jar (1)
>                 ____________________________ X 100 = % humidity
>                 weight wet (2) - mason jar (1)
> 
>     as your weight are in grammes and as you weight at less 1 Kilogramme
> of honey, your precision is 1 for 1000, that means 0.1% of humidity
>     for sure, you need to use the same unity for every weight.
>     and also a metallic jar is better than a mason jar (I use an old
> coffee pot)
> 
> I use the balance to weight the honey I sold so it's not dedicated.
> I use the dry honey mixed with some water, butter eggs and flour to do a
> good cake.
> I must confess that as I'm a very small beekeeper, I mix all my
> production in one container for clarification (never heat my honey), and
> I just have to do one measurement. I think this method will not be
> useful for medium or large scale beekeepers.
> 
> I never encountered any problem with this method, but if something wrong
> reply me.
> 
> 
> thanks . PASCAL
> 


From jim@newsguy.com Thu Mar  4 11:21:00 EST 1999
Article: 16020 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: jim 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Clover?
Date: 2 Mar 1999 22:25:33 -0800
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When sowing clover, do not fail to use
innoculate.  It comes in small bags,
and is mixed with the clover seed before
it is mixed with sand (the common approach
to hand-sowing).

All legumes need an innoculate, but only
for the first seeding if you want to get
technical.  Subsequent seedings do not 
really require it, but the cost is so 
small that it is cheap insurance to use
it every time.

A seed-and-feed store or farm co-op would be 
much cheaper than the various mail-order houses, 
even if you had to drive a long distance to get
there.  (20 pounds of seed weighs uhhh, 20 pounds,
and shipping is not cheap!)  I would also hesitate 
to trust seed that was sold by anyone other than a 
true feed-and-seed.

I would suggest 3-4 pounds of seed per acre, but
I am often described as only a "sow-sow" farmer.

In the Northeast, Agway is great.  In the
Southeast, Southern States is the place to go.
In a pinch, look for someone selling farm equipment
or even a "garden center", and ask for the name
of the "seed and feed sales agent" for the area.

Any random feed store is sure to have both Ladino
and White Dutch seed in stock.  Monoculture is
a dumb idea, so toss at least two different kinds.

Soil treatment may not be required at all, and a 
good (free) test is to look for existing clover.  
If you have/had some clover now/last year, then
your soil is, by definition  OK, since it grew 
and thrived without any help from you or the 
"multinational agribusiness-industrial complex".

Another hint.  Seed may be cheaper by the
(for clover, 50 pound) bag, but if you will
not sow all it THIS year, pay the few extra
pennies per pound to buy only what you need.  
Germination rates drop like a rock when seed 
is more than a year old, and proper storage of 
seed is a science in itself.  Mention that you 
are sowing for bees, and you just might get the 
"bag" price on a smaller quantity.  Farmers know 
the score on bees.  You are their only hope.

I also like to ask about ear tags if a new 
man is working the order desk.  He will show 
you (of course) ear tags for cattle, goats, 
sheep, etc.  Tell him you need much smaller 
ear tags.  He will ask why.  Tell him that
they are for your bees.  It can take a full 30
seconds for this to sink in, but the result is
gratifying.


From beecrofter@aol.comBee Thu Mar  4 11:21:01 EST 1999
Article: 16021 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Date: 1 Mar 1999 13:44:48 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
References: <19990301001642.02058.00001832@ng29.aol.com>
Message-ID: <19990301084448.12160.00002182@ng-fq1.aol.com>
Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16021

AOL user here and also a beekeeper.

Have to agree on the Walter Kelly book
"How to keep bees and sell honey"
Much good information for five bucks.
Excepting the latest disease and mite info most beginner questions are covered
quite well.



Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


From chucklaser@aol.com Thu Mar  4 11:21:02 EST 1999
Article: 16022 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey03.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: chucklaser@aol.com (ChuckLaser)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Proposal - What I have Learned
Lines: 32
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com
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Message-ID: <19990301090910.16595.00000495@ng19.aol.com>
Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16022

FWIW, I missed one of the spam traps of the two I guess. I do about 20 emails
every day, and that leaves little time to play games with addresses. Spam is
insignificant compared to my regular volume, so I don't even consider it worth
worrying about.   
 AOL is basicly free for me. Only an idiot would expect me to turn that down.
Chuck


>Well, gee beeguy, I was gonna post a message  letting Laser guy know he
>forgot
>to remove the spam trap in your address. That your address is working just
>great but since you have now insulted me because I have an AOL address. To
>hell
>with ya! Been on the web over 5 years, have aol because I am trying to teach
>a
>Woman 72 yrs. young how to go online and I thought AOL would be the easist to
>start with.  OH Well!
>
>Laura
>
>
>
>
>
>


www.laserrevolutions.com
Laser Revolutions 
Video-Home-Service Inc.
3108 23rd Ave.
Moline Illinois 61265


From htho@se.bel.alcatel.be Thu Mar  4 11:21:02 EST 1999
Article: 16023 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!EU.net!Belgium.EU.net!news.bel.alcatel.be!usenet
From: Hugo Thone 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: papers
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 15:04:03 +0100
Organization: Alcatel Telecom
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <36DA9E53.8FBCA643@se.bel.alcatel.be>
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Hello,

A friend of mine is looking for the following papers :

1. "Strictly for the hobbyist : American foulbrood and its control"
    Author : Delaplane.-K.S.
    Am-bee-j. Hamilton,IL.:American Bee Journal. June 1998.
    v.138(6) p.431-433

2. "Laboratory and field studies on the effects of the antibiotic
    tylosin on honey bee Apis mellifera L. (Hymenoptera:Apidae)
    development and prevention of American foulbrood disease.
    Author : Peng,-C.Y.S.;Mussen,-E;Fong,-A.;Cheng,-P;Wong,-G;
    Montague,-M.A.

There must be a good soul on this list who is willing to help me.

TIA 

Hugo (the half-a-bee)
-- 
Hugo Thone (VE144) | email htho@se.bel.alcatel.be | do bee do bee do
ALCATEL TELECOM    | phone (32) 3 240 94 52       |        (\
F.Wellesplein 1    | fax   (32) 3 240 99 49       |      {|||8-
B-2018 Antwerp     |                              |        (/


From pollinator@aol.com Thu Mar  4 11:21:03 EST 1999
Article: 16024 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey03.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How it to make?
Lines: 21
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com
Date: 3 Mar 1999 16:15:15 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Message-ID: <19990303111515.27486.00002497@ng151.aol.com>
Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16024

From: Aleksandr Sukhinin 

>If you saw the drawings of shaft mechanism for reception waxed or to
>make shaft?
>
>Please e-mail me.

Ummmmmm.....

Could you please run that by again (please explain). ??????

We don't understand what you mean.




Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


From beecrofter@aol.comBee Thu Mar  4 11:21:04 EST 1999
Article: 16025 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc04.blue.aol.com!audrey03.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Grease Patty
Lines: 8
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16025

either


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


From shuston@riverace.com Thu Mar  4 11:21:04 EST 1999
Article: 16026 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsswitch.lcs.mit.edu!news.ultranet.com!not-for-mail
From: Steve Huston 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Repairing hive body with epoxy?
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 17:21:11 -0500
Organization: Riverace Corporation
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16026

Hi,

This will be my first year keeping bees.  I got some used equipment from
an older beekeeper (he says there's no foubrood in there - mites were
the culprit).  Anyway, one of the hive bodies has some rotted wood on a
couple of corners.  I've read you can cut out the rot and nail some new
wood in there.  I was wondering, though, would patching the space with
some newfangled filler like epoxy work?  Would the bees dislike it?

Thanks!

-- 
Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
Specializing in TCP/IP, CORBA, ACE        (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
Expertise to help your projects succeed   We support ACE!


From islapro@islapro.com Thu Mar  4 11:21:05 EST 1999
Article: 16027 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!news-feed.inet.tele.dk!bofh.vszbr.cz!masternews.telia.net!newsfeed.bcn.ttd.net!news.mad.ttd.net!not-for-mail
From: islapro 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Anybody want an IDEA for killing varroa?
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 12:39:11 +0100
Organization: ISLA producciones digitales, S.L.
Lines: 68
Message-ID: <36DD1F5F.153AD694@islapro.com>
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16027

Este es un mensaje multipartes en formato MIME.
--------------8762DB7CFC04618AAB134AF9
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

We have exprimented with the theroy that varroa is attracted by a higher
temperature, therefore you lower the temp. in the enviroment through
natural conditions -shade, placing at different angle in relation to the
sun, and at the same time create an screened -using a screen- area where
the varroa will be attracted.
The tools starts with a simple electronic incubator -ie. for canary
eggs- and becomes more sofisticated as you depurate and adapt... Does
not need of Personal Computer, just a simple dialer that you can
increase the temp of the incubator.
The level of moisture in the environment it is quite helpful. So you can
add a moisture sensor.
And finally a Personal Computer (from 386 up) could control hundreds of
this devices establishing the temperature of the environment, moisture,
and container environment and triggering the frying process.

The electronic temperature sensors are inside and in the miniature
incubator... the automatic starts when certain conditions are meet:
time, quantity...

Beekeper for a hobby,


Mario Duchi escribió:
> 
> Hi group..
>     I'm an Italian electronics technichian & a beekeeper (for hobby) , I've
> developed something with a microprocessor an a handfull of other components
> (not telling you what but how it works) that does 2 jobs.
> 1) suffocates varroa
> 2) attracts it where I want it.
> 
> I'm still testing it but seems like it works...
> No pesticides, no poisons, works with 24v battery
> 
> If anybody (companies) is interrested let me know..
> 
> Mario Duchi
> Trento, Italy
> duchimario@valsugana.com
--------------8762DB7CFC04618AAB134AF9
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n:              Matas;Jose
org:            ISLA producciones digitales, S.L.
adr:            Bdo. de Santa Eugenia, 14;;;Santa Maria;Mallorca;07320;SPAIN
email;internet: islapro@islapro.com
title:          marketing
tel;work:       971-620-115
tel;fax:        971-140-870
x-mozilla-cpt:  ;0
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version:        2.1
end:            vcard


--------------8762DB7CFC04618AAB134AF9--




From Griffes@my-dejanews.com Thu Mar  4 11:21:05 EST 1999
Article: 16028 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!news-dc-2.sprintlink.net!news-east1.sprintlink.net!-program!news-peer1.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!nntp2.dejanews.com!nnrp1.dejanews.com!not-for-mail
From: Griffes@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: brand new to bee-keeping
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 16:25:22 GMT
Organization: Deja News - The Leader in Internet Discussion
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <7b3th5$2kr$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com>
References: <7b21oq$g3u$1@news-2.news.gte.net> <19990224185946.23722.00002729@ng116.aol.com>
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16028

In article <19990224185946.23722.00002729@ng116.aol.com>,
  hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan) wrote:
> >What advice would you give to a person in vermont just starting out with
> >a couple of packages of bees and reading all I can...I'm starting to get
> >scarred with all these notices of their bees dying. and all these
> >diseases!!!
> >Molly
>
>Kevin's advice:
> READn  READn READ
> YOU'RE on the rite track !!!
> Hang @ here alot too !!

which is very good advice to which I add this


Molly since you live in Vermont take the time to get with Kirk Webster in
Middlebury, VT and "see if" he will let ya attend his annual Beekeeping
Workshop he holds "for his customers."	Kirk has a good system worked out
that allows him to make up ALL his own losses plus sell his extra nucs and
Summer Queens while staying firmly planted in Vermont - as per he don't
migrate.  Fact is if ya still can (likely too late already) I would get nucs
>from  Kirk also.

Contact me via my hotmail address below for Kirk's address.


Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
Onsted, MI
USA
http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


From duchimario@valsugana.com Thu Mar  4 11:21:06 EST 1999
Article: 16029 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!aruba.odu.edu!reznor.larc.nasa.gov!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newspump.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newsfeed.eurocyber.net!news.muc.eurocyber.net!not-for-mail
From: "Mario Duchi" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Anybody want an IDEA for killing varroa?
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 12:06:49 +0100
Organization: Cybernet AG
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <7bgjrr$o7c$1@news4.muc.eurocyber.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: isdn13-gw1-tn.eclipse.it
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X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3
Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16029

Hi group..
    I'm an Italian electronics technichian & a beekeeper (for hobby) , I've
developed something with a microprocessor an a handfull of other components
(not telling you what but how it works) that does 2 jobs.
1) suffocates varroa
2) attracts it where I want it.

I'm still testing it but seems like it works...
No pesticides, no poisons, works with 24v battery

If anybody (companies) is interrested let me know..

Mario Duchi
Trento, Italy
duchimario@valsugana.com







From adamf@vt.edu Thu Mar  4 11:21:07 EST 1999
Article: 16030 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!aruba.odu.edu!reznor.larc.nasa.gov!news.msfc.nasa.gov!europa.clark.net!207.114.4.11!nntp.abs.net!dca1-hub1.news.digex.net!dca1-feed2.news.digex.net!digex!news1.radix.net!not-for-mail
From: adamf@golux.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: "Tactic"...pesticide resistance
Date: 2 Mar 1999 06:19:52 -0000
Organization: Self-Organized.      Dig that.
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <7bfvu8$898$1@golux.radix.net>
References: <19990221190040.23943.00001703@ng98.aol.com> <19990224185526.23523.00002925@ng115.aol.com> <36D691DA.565B@juno.com>
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16030

In article <36D691DA.565B@juno.com>, tomas mozer   wrote:
>
>========================================================================
>Dr. Malcolm (Tom) Sanford, Extension Apiculturist, University of Florida
>Bldg. 970, P.O. Box 110620, Gainesville, FL 32611-0620
>Ph. 352/392-1801 ext. 143   Fax 352/392-0190
>E-mail: mts@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Publisher of the APIS newsletter: http://www.ifas.ufl.edu/~mts/apishtm/apis.htm
>To electronically subscribe, send the following to listserv@lists.ufl.edu:
>subscribe Apis-L First Name Last Name
>=======================================================================

Thanks for posting the _Apis_ article. I tried long ago to get Sanford to
post the issues here, but he basically ignored me. Then I posted _Apis_ for
awhile, but it's easier to just point to the URL. I appreciate your taking
the time to post  the relevant article. 

A nugget of net beekeeping history: back in 1992 or so I was attending a
national honey bee inspector meeting in Beltsville, MD and Sanford was
there giving a presentation on internet resources for beekeepers. He had
a real hard time getting his laptop to connect to the net. I heard him
talking to another "official" beekeeping person about the internet needing
to be controlled because there were "too many loose cannons" out there.

Funny.
:-)

Adam 

-- 
Adam Finkelstein                   
adamf@vt.edu              
http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf


From ltfishcop@juno.com Thu Mar  4 11:21:08 EST 1999
Article: 16031 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "ltfishcop" 
Subject: Used Frames
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Lines: 9
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16031

Does any one know of a foolproof way to disenfect used frames.  I
aquired a lot of used equipment but am reluctant to use the frames.  I
have no history on the hives.  I have already burned about half, they
were broken or chewed up by animals.  I hate to throw away good
equipment.
--
Posted via Talkway - http://www.talkway.com
Surf Usenet at home, on the road, and by email -- always at Talkway.



From davmc@nbnet.nb.ca Thu Mar  4 11:21:08 EST 1999
Article: 16032 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!sunqbc.risq.qc.ca!torn!garnet.nbnet.nb.ca!not-for-mail
From: David McKinney 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Pollen Collection
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 19:52:24 -0400
Organization: NBTel Internet
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Does anyone know of a good source of information on collection, methods,
traps, cleaning, processing, etc of pollen from honey bees on the net or
other? David McKinney, Fredericton NB


From bill.greenrose@valley.net Thu Mar  4 11:21:09 EST 1999
Article: 16033 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!cyclone.swbell.net!uunet!ffx.uu.net!in2.uu.net!sol.caps.maine.edu!dartvax.dartmouth.edu!not-for-mail
From: Bill Greenrose 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Proposal - What I have Learned
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 19:53:53 -0500
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH, USA
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Message-ID: <36DDD9A1.EEDBA1FB@valley.net>
References: <7bar1n$9mu$1@ash.prod.itd.earthlink.net> <19990228113220.00964.00001072@ng-fc1.aol.com> <7bbvje$s6a$1@fir.prod.itd.earthlink.net> <7bi6o8$cdg@titan.oit.unc.edu>
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Adam Finkelstein wrote:

> In article <7bbvje$s6a$1@fir.prod.itd.earthlink.net>,
> Mushroom  wrote:
> >
> > And aol accounts are an indication of the the clueless.
> > I wasn't asking for your critique of my privacy concerns, simply if the
> >information may be welcome. So now drag your mouse over to 'delete' and go
> >away, welcome to my killfile.
> >
>
> Wow. You've won the first public killfile award in this newsgroup.
> Adam

oh, adam.  did you saute the shroom?

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




From pollinator@aol.com Mon Mar  8 09:23:40 EST 1999
Article: 16034 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newsfeed.mathworks.com!portc04.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Repairing hive body with epoxy?
Lines: 26
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder05.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com
Date: 4 Mar 1999 03:59:45 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
References: <36DDB5D7.98D62ECC@riverace.com>
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16034

From: Steve Huston 

>This will be my first year keeping bees.  I got some used equipment from
>an older beekeeper (he says there's no foubrood in there - mites were
>the culprit).  Anyway, one of the hive bodies has some rotted wood on a
>couple of corners.  I've read you can cut out the rot and nail some new
>wood in there.  I was wondering, though, would patching the space with
>some newfangled filler like epoxy work?  Would the bees dislike it?

   If it's cured, the bees won't care. Pretty expensive patch though.....

   Actually people are a lot more fussy about bee equipment than the bees. The
important thing for them is to have a good roof that doesn't leak. A little
side ventilation is a plus, unless the hive is weak and can't defend against
robbers.

    The only real good reason for keeping perfectly tight equipment is if you
are moving bees often from honey crop to honey crop, or for pollination. It's
not fun to grab a handful of bees.


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


From jcaldeira@earthlink.net Mon Mar  8 09:23:41 EST 1999
Article: 16035 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: jcaldeira@earthlink.net (John Caldeira)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: For U.S. (& Canadian) consumption only: Buckfast question
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 02:59:18 GMT
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"Larry S. Farris"  wrote:
>How Buckfast are the Weaver's "Buckfast" nowadays?

Good question.  Without continuous genetic improvement, most organisms
revert back to their less desirable natural types.  With continued
selection, it may be a better bee, but perhaps not exactly "Buckfast".

In any case, the Buckfast does not produce as well as a good Italian
strain in Texas, in my opinion.

-John
   

John Caldeira
Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/



From Griffes@my-dejanews.com Mon Mar  8 09:23:41 EST 1999
Article: 16036 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Griffes@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Buckfast for beginner?
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 22:53:55 GMT
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In article <36D81D39.7FB4FCF3@bellsouth.net>,
  "bill_daniels@bellsouth.net"  wrote:
> Do the characteristics of buckfast bees make them appropriate for a
> beginning beekeeper?  Are any of the hybrids better for beginners than
> regular Italians?  I don't think I will want to use any bees that tend
> to gum things up with propolis since I will probably be tentative
> opening the hive and moving things around anyway.

Yes Buckfast is a fine choice for a bee-ginner.  They are tracheal mite
resistant which means you only need treat for Varroa mites.

I have yet to see any bees here in the USA that totally fail to use propolis.
Some are more propolis oriented than others though.

Perhaps the most important thing for a bee-ginner though is NOT what strain of
bee they start with but is that they start with two or three colonies - NOT
just one.  Extra credit if ya know why?

Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
Onsted, MI
USA
http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
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From roel.ten.klei@tip.nl Mon Mar  8 09:23:42 EST 1999
Article: 16037 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "roel ten klei" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: pollen
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 06:22:13 +0100
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Do anyone know of a good book with colored pictures of pollen

roel.ten.klei@tip.nl





From pascal66@globetrotter.net Mon Mar  8 09:23:43 EST 1999
Article: 16038 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pf 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Minimalist Honey Processing?
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Peter Amschel wrote:

> Some smart ideas, Pascal, thanks for sharing. "Dry honey"? I never
> thought of that before. Is "dry honey" where your process reaches the
> point where the container doesn't lose any more weight, at step #6 in
> your process?
>

(1)Yes that true, when honey stop decresase in weight at step (6) of the method  (or step 7, 8, 9 dependig the time you're able to wait beetween the step), it's suppose to be at 0% of humidity, looking like brown granulated caramel (the lowest the oven is, less brown is the caramel and more longer
is the method but better is the cake). The security of that method is that at low temperature, the sugar can't evaporate and the portion of volatil compounds is negligeable in proportion with the amount of water (on my opinion)

Peter Amschel wrote:

Since you work closely with the comb, Pascal, you probably carefully
select only the pieces of comb with capped honey, right?

(2) definitely right, but I accept a piece of comb with less than 1/4 of the surface not capped


thanks for the discussion       PF



From hk1beeman@aol.com Mon Mar  8 09:23:43 EST 1999
Article: 16039 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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>Now for anyone out thar tat hin't necessarily cultured enough to know
>already...
>DON'T DRINK THIS STUFF
>DON'T GET NONE ON YA
>

Oh please forgive my skills. Its been brought to my attention that I misspelled
a word in my last post.

Hain't   is spelled "  hain't " not  " hin't"



Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.





From Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com Mon Mar  8 09:23:44 EST 1999
Article: 16040 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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--------------110A1A7FB6DAC5895B6322AA
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Mushroom wrote:

> In article <19990228113220.00964.00001072@ng-fc1.aol.com>, chucklaser@aol.com (ChuckLaser) wrote:
>
> >
> >Fake e-mail addresses inspire confidence as well   :)
> >Chuck
> >www.laserrevolutions.com
> >Laser Revolutions
> >Video-Home-Service Inc.
> >3108 23rd Ave.
> >Moline Illinois 61265
>
>  And aol accounts are an indication of the the clueless.
>  I wasn't asking for your critique of my privacy concerns, simply if the
> information may be welcome. So now drag your mouse over to 'delete' and go
> away, welcome to my killfile.

 Where have you folks been? The clueless aren't on AOL anymore, they all switched to WebTV!!!!!!!!!

--
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */



--------------110A1A7FB6DAC5895B6322AA
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Mushroom wrote:

In article <19990228113220.00964.00001072@ng-fc1.aol.com>,
chucklaser@aol.com (ChuckLaser) wrote:


>

>Fake e-mail addresses inspire confidence as well   :)

>Chuck

>www.laserrevolutions.com

>Laser Revolutions

>Video-Home-Service Inc.

>3108 23rd Ave.

>Moline Illinois 61265


 And aol accounts are an indication of the the clueless.

 I wasn't asking for your critique of my privacy concerns, simply
if the

information may be welcome. So now drag your mouse over to 'delete'
and go

away, welcome to my killfile.

 Where have you folks been? The clueless aren't on AOL anymore, they
all switched to WebTV!!!!!!!!!

-- 
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */    
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */

 

--------------110A1A7FB6DAC5895B6322AA--



From Tom@tomsp8.demon.co.uk Mon Mar  8 09:23:44 EST 1999
Article: 16041 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Tom Speight 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: pollen
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 19:22:42 +0000
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In article <7bl5d4$gia$1@news.worldonline.nl>, roel ten klei
 writes
>Do anyone know of a good book with colored pictures of pollen
A Colour Guide to Pollen Loads of the Honey Bee 
By Dr J Kirk.
Listin 268 load colours in English, French and German

Try Northern Bee Books who mail worldwide

e-mail: jeremy@recordermail.demon.co.uk
-- 
Tom S


From allend@internode.net Mon Mar  8 09:23:45 EST 1999
Article: 16042 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: allend@internode.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Anybody want an IDEA for killing varroa?
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 02:34:09 GMT
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> I've  developed something with a microprocessor an a handfull of other
> components(not telling you what but how it works) that does 2 jobs.
> 1) suffocates varroa
> 2) attracts it where I want it.

Shouldn't that bee the other way around?  Or does it suffocate them anywhere
they happen to bee?

Allen

Oh, yes.  I am interested.

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
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From allend@internode.net Mon Mar  8 09:23:46 EST 1999
Article: 16043 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: allend@internode.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: "Hackler Punch" vs. Uncapping Knives
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 02:51:44 GMT
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> a (new?)item on which I would like opinions... The "Hackler Punch" is a
> roller on a handle, with    small spikes protruding from the roller. etc...

I have two here (used for 1/2 hour) and NO unreasonable OFFER WILL BEE
REFUSED.

They *might* work under some unknown conditions that I have not encountered in
25 years of very diverse commercial beekeeping.

Can't imagine what they might bee.

Allen



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From pollinator@aol.com Mon Mar  8 09:23:46 EST 1999
Article: 16044 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
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From: jim 

>I also like to ask about ear tags if a new 
>man is working the order desk.  He will show 
>you (of course) ear tags for cattle, goats, 
>sheep, etc.  Tell him you need much smaller 
>ear tags.  He will ask why.  Tell him that
>they are for your bees.  It can take a full 30
>seconds for this to sink in, but the result is
>gratifying.

   Sounds like the day they chased me out of the hardware store. A bunch of
guys were asking about how we treated for mites, and I told them the treatment
was like a flea collar for dogs.....

    They wouldn't let me explain......




Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


From BobCan@Clover.Net Mon Mar  8 09:23:47 EST 1999
Article: 16045 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Reply-To: "Bob" 
From: "Bob" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Grease Patty
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 12:01:34 -0500
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I have heard that you can create a grease patty by adding sugar and
vegetable oil.  My question is do you use vegetable oil or shorting?




From shuston@riverace.com Mon Mar  8 09:23:47 EST 1999
Article: 16046 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Steve Huston 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: beekeeping and highfrequent electromagnetic waves
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 12:48:57 -0500
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16046

cmbh71c@prodigy.com wrote:
> 
> you dont mean the lines that are in back of houses, right?

I'm certainly no expert, but I believe that most lines in the back of
houses in the US (the lines on towers) are 250kv.  The ones tested in
the article abstracted were 500kv.  Similar source, just not quite as
powerful.  Also the Russian lines are 50Hz, US is 60Hz.  You decide the
risk factors.  I'll stay away, thanks ;-)

> n article <36DBFB8B.148B@javanet.com>,
>   Richard Bonney  wrote:
> > The following is excerpted from a 1990 issue of my newsletter "The Aware
> > Beekeeper."
> >
> > Dick Bonney
> > rebonney@javanet.com
> >
> > > BEES AND HIGH VOLTAGE
> > >
> > >     Over the years there have been reports of adverse effects on mammals (including humans) from being housed or pastured under high voltage electric lines. Now [in 1990] a paper from Russia, "Ethological and physiological anomalies in honeybees caused by the action of high-voltage line electric fields", by E.K. Es'kov and N.I. Bragin, reports that there are adverse effects on bees. The paper is written in Russian but fortunately there is an English abstract, as follows:
> > >
> > >   Effects of electric fields (industrial frequencies) on honey bees were studied in the laboratory and under a high-voltage electric line (500 kv). Regulation of the brood nest microclimate was disturbed in exposed colonies and viability of embryos, larvae and adults was reduced. (Other adverse effects were noted.) Honey production was reduced. The effects were eliminated by moving the bees to a site at least 50 meters from the line, or by placing them under trees, or by covering hive tops with a layer of dirt.
> > >
> > > The right-of-way under a power line can be a temptation to a beekeeper who may be looking for a new site for a bee yard. It sounds as though this is a temptation to be resisted.
> > >
> > >             *  *  *  *  *
> >
> 
> -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
> http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own

-- 
Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
Specializing in TCP/IP, CORBA, ACE        (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
Expertise to help your projects succeed   We support ACE!


From hk1beeman@aol.com Mon Mar  8 09:23:48 EST 1999
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16047

>ervice.talkway.com>
>"ltfishcop"  writes:
> 
>>
>>Does any one know of a foolproof way to disenfect used frames.
> 

I wish i could make a faq on this but since i use aol i guess i dont know what
one is.

Here in its entirety is the method i use, it has never failed me and the frames
come out looking almost new !!

Take ya a 50 gallon metal barrel with out a lid is better than with one.

Build ya a stand fer the barrel to sit on bout a foot high offen the ground.
Fix it where ya can build a rite big fire under that barrel.

Fill that barrel with water up to the last ring before the top, nuther words
bout a foot from the top.
Now pour in 4 boxes a lye while the water is cold, ifn ya waite till its hot
it'll blow up in ya face.

Get that lye water a boiling good, remove the wedges from ya frames then toss
the whole mess in thar bout 10 frames at the time, kinda stir em with a pitch
fork, ya take em out with that fork too. 
Leave em in thar bout 2 minutes is all it'll take
hit dissolves every bit a propolis and wax and leaves the wood clean as a babys
butt.
Now take em out and rinse em off with ya garden hose sprayer real good.

Let em dry a bout a day. Man they's light as a feather. Works wonderful on hive
bodies too. Just take an hold em under for a spell with ya pitch fork. Not only
will they be clean but most a the time it'll strip off old splintered paint
down to the wood.

Now for anyone out thar tat hin't necessarily cultured enough to know
already...
DON'T DRINK THIS STUFF
DON'T GET NONE ON YA

Oh yeah, i use a barrel wit one a them bolt back on lids, so all i has ta do is
add a little more water and lye next time i need it. A Barrel will last bout 3
years before the lye eats through it.

As always Ya'lls truely,


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.





From hk1beeman@aol.com Mon Mar  8 09:23:48 EST 1999
Article: 16048 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Used Frames
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>Does any one know of a foolproof way to disenfect used frames.  I
>aquired a lot of used equipment but am reluctant to use the frames.  I
>have no history on the hives.  I have already burned about half, they
>were broken or chewed up by animals.  I hate to throw away good

 wish i could make a faq on this but since i use aol i guess i dont know what
one is.

Here in its entirety is the method i use, it has never failed me and the frames
come out looking almost new !!

Take ya a 50 gallon metal barrel with out a lid is better than with one.

Build ya a stand fer the barrel to sit on bout a foot high offen the ground.
Fix it where ya can build a rite big fire under that barrel.

Fill that barrel with water up to the last ring before the top, nuther words
bout a foot from the top.
Now pour in 4 boxes a lye while the water is cold, ifn ya waite till its hot
it'll blow up in ya face.

Get that lye water a boiling good, remove the wedges from ya frames then toss
the whole mess in thar bout 10 frames at the time, kinda stir em with a pitch
fork, ya take em out with that fork too. 
Leave em in thar bout 2 minutes is all it'll take
hit dissolves every bit a propolis and wax and leaves the wood clean as a babys
butt.
Now take em out and rinse em off with ya garden hose sprayer real good.

Let em dry a bout a day. Man they's light as a feather. Works wonderful on hive
bodies too. Just take an hold em under for a spell with ya pitch fork. Not only
will they be clean but most a the time it'll strip off old splintered paint
down to the wood.

Now for anyone out thar tat hin't necessarily cultured enough to know
already...
DON'T DRINK THIS STUFF
DON'T GET NONE ON YA

Oh yeah, i use a barrel wit one a them bolt back on lids, so all i has ta do is
add a little more water and lye next time i need it. A Barrel will last bout 3
years before the lye eats through it.

As always Ya'lls truely,


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.

Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.





From rebonney@javanet.com Mon Mar  8 09:23:49 EST 1999
Article: 16049 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Richard Bonney 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Beeyard agreements?
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 09:30:39 -0500
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I wrote an article for Bee Culture magazine, the February 1998 issue,
that addresses your question specifically. The article can be found in
the Bee Culture archives at:
	
Go to that web site and work your way through Bee Culture to Archives.

Dick Bonney
rebonney@javanet.com


From hensler@povn.com Mon Mar  8 09:23:50 EST 1999
Article: 16050 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!unc-cs!news-relay.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.mathworks.com!newsfeed.cwix.com!206.63.63.70!nwnews.wa.com!spk-news1.nwnexus.com!not-for-mail
From: "J. F Hensler" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Essential oils----latest research
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 18:37:57 -0800
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Yo Mike:

Did you see the article in today's Spokesman-Review on the emergency use
of Coumaphos for the control of varroa mites in Wash., Ore. & Ida. this
year?

If you're quick you can access it at
http://www.VirtuallyNW.com/news-story.asp?date=030599&ID=s540374 but
this URL is usually only good for the day of issue.

Our very own list member Jim Bach is even quoted in the article.  :-)

Skip

-- 
Skip and Christy Hensler
THE ROCK GARDEN
Newport, Wash.
http://www.povn.com/rock



From tomasmozer@juno.com Mon Mar  8 09:23:50 EST 1999
Article: 16051 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: tomas mozer 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Essential oils----latest research
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 18:06:50 -0800
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visit this review of the varroa www hub:

http://bee.airoot.com/beeculture/digital/1999/column7.htm

link to tektran database, search keyword "varroa":

7: SOME VOLATILE PLANT OILS AS POTENTIAL CONTROL AGENTS FOR VARROA MITES
  (ACARI: VARROIDAE) IN HONEY BEE COLONIES (HYMENOPTERA: APIDAE) 

for a historical overview, link to articles and see apis newsletter varroa 
thread, especially:

More on Oils of Essence in Mite Control, November
1997.



From cmbh71c@prodigy.com Mon Mar  8 09:23:51 EST 1999
Article: 16052 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: cmbh71c@prodigy.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: beekeeping and highfrequent electromagnetic waves
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 21:27:44 GMT
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you dont mean the lines that are in back of houses, right?


n article <36DBFB8B.148B@javanet.com>,
  Richard Bonney  wrote:
> The following is excerpted from a 1990 issue of my newsletter "The Aware
> Beekeeper."
>
> Dick Bonney
> rebonney@javanet.com
>
> > BEES AND HIGH VOLTAGE
> >
> > 	Over the years there have been reports of adverse effects on mammals (including humans) from being housed or pastured under high voltage electric lines. Now [in 1990] a paper from Russia, "Ethological and physiological anomalies in honeybees caused by the action of high-voltage line electric fields", by E.K. Es'kov and N.I. Bragin, reports that there are adverse effects on bees. The paper is written in Russian but fortunately there is an English abstract, as follows:
> >
> >   Effects of electric fields (industrial frequencies) on honey bees were studied in the laboratory and under a high-voltage electric line (500 kv). Regulation of the brood nest microclimate was disturbed in exposed colonies and viability of embryos, larvae and adults was reduced. (Other adverse effects were noted.) Honey production was reduced. The effects were eliminated by moving the bees to a site at least 50 meters from the line, or by placing them under trees, or by covering hive tops with a layer of dirt.
> >
> > The right-of-way under a power line can be a temptation to a beekeeper who may be looking for a new site for a bee yard. It sounds as though this is a temptation to be resisted.
> >
> >             *  *  *  *  *
>

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


From pascal66@globetrotter.net Mon Mar  8 09:23:52 EST 1999
Article: 16053 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pf 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Grease Patty
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 13:27:50 -0500
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this is an extract of an article I found in the Bee Archive at
Airoot.com, name of the archive is 96sept3.htm (don't know more).

"I came away with one splendid idea, which I am eager to pass along. Mr.
Laney makes his "grease patties," if they can be called that, simply by
dumping granulated sugar into a bucket and adding vegetable oil. The
ratio is about three parts sugar to one part oil, by volume. Let it set
overnight and you've got just what you want - a nice smooth mix. Or, if
there is still some oil on top, you can add a little more sugar. Then
you just take this bucket to the apiary and ladle portions onto the top
bars in
the brood chambers. I gave it a try when I got home, using canola oil,
and it seems to be just the thing."

hope this will be helpfull

PF.

Bob wrote:

> I have heard that you can create a grease patty by adding sugar and
> vegetable oil.  My question is do you use vegetable oil or shorting?



From miksahf@aol.com Mon Mar  8 09:23:53 EST 1999
Article: 16054 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: miksahf@aol.com (MiksaHF)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Bayer Strips
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Warning!!!! Warning!!!   Do not place strips into any colony that is rearing
queens.  Any colony that supercedes, swarms, goes queenless, or is in
commercial queen cells production somehow the strips stop proper feeding, some
pupae are upside down, and almost all of colonies we pulled brood from DID not
re-queen.

Had several thousand queen cells killed from the using the Strips as directed
on package.   

At the present time the USDA is trying to address this problem.

I feel it is so important that the bee industry should be aware of this
potential problem, I apologize for giving out my experience with using this
product without USDA approval.

David Miksa


From cpullman@ckt.net Mon Mar  8 09:23:53 EST 1999
Article: 16055 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Sounds like you did everything right. Did you use pins to help hold the
foundation straight? The wires are pressed into the foundation using a
wire embedder. The crisscross method has always worked for me. You
should keep the entrance reduced, and feed the bees when they arrive.



From snewport@pavilion.co.uk Mon Mar  8 09:23:54 EST 1999
Article: 16056 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: snewport@pavilion.co.uk (Steve Newport)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Exploded line drawing of normal and TBH
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Does anyone have such a thing that they could e-mail me ?

I want it for a talking point. If you do and your willing to let me
have a copy can you e-mail it directly to me ?

Many thanks.  snewport@pavilion.co.uk


From sd20@earthlink.net Mon Mar  8 09:23:55 EST 1999
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From: sd20@earthlink.net (Del Stanton)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: beekeeping and highfrequent electromagnetic waves
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 15:16:31 GMT
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There is a very interesting book that deals with the effects of 
electric field, magnetic fields and electromagnetic fields on plants,
animals and humans.  (Electric fields - e. g. the field that exists
between two parallel conducting plates at different unvarying
voltages.  Magnetic field - e. g. the field around a permanent magnet.
Electromagnetic fields - e. g. the field around an AC power line, an
AM broadcast antenna, or in the beam of a microwave or radar antenna.)

The book:               _The Body Electric_ ,     
                              Electromagnetism And 
                              The Foundation Of Life

The Author:               Robert O.Becker

It is $10.35 at  www.amazon.com

He is a medical doctor that treated patients and also did research
with grants from the National Science Foundation,  the Veterans
Administration and various foundations.  He studied the electric
postentials that exist in the body during the healing of bones, the
regeneration of limbs in salamanders (a salamander can regrow a lost
leg), and how electric fields and very small DC currents on can help
the body fight infection and heal damaged bone.

In addition he has many references to the effects of electromagnetic
fields from 50 Hz and 60 Hz powerlines, AM broadcast antennas and
microwave towers and radar dishes on animals and humans.  The facts he
reveals are astonishing.  Also, in the US there seems to be a
concerted effort to avoid research into this area.  The study of bee
hives under powerlines mentioned by another post in this thread serves
as an example of this. Our former enemy, the Soviet Union, did sponsor
some research on the effects of electromagnetic radiation (both at
powerline frequencies (50 Hz in Russia) and at radio and microwave
frequences) and the results are disquieting.  Also, there are
demographic studies in the US of populations living or working  in
microwave beams (telephone links in urban high rise areas)  and in the
path of powerfull sweeping radar beams (airport radars) that show that
these represent alarming health hazards.  

This information may become a national scandal in the coming years:
clearly, it is being deliberately ignored or suppressed now.

Del Stanton   sd20@earthlink.net


On Sun, 28 Feb 1999 11:48:42 +0100, "Peter.Hofmann"
 wrote:

>Does anyone know  something about possible influences on Bees or
>beekeeping by high frequent electromagnetic radiation? For example: has
>anyone noticed possible changes in beekeeping because of  nearby sited
>radiostations, radarantennas, basisstations for Mobil Communication
>(handheld telephones) and so on?
>I would be very grateful for some informations on this issue.
>
>Peter Hofmann
>





From adameden@ipa.net Mon Mar  8 09:23:56 EST 1999
Article: 16058 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "R & S Adams" 
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Subject: March in Missouri
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I'm in the s.w. corner of MO.--I am feeding my bees a mixture of 5 lbs of
sugar  and water in an inverted 1 gallon jar with fumidil.  Is there
anything else I should be doing this month.  I also have Crisco shortening
soaked paper towel(rolled up) on top   of the frames also.  I'm waiting for
a warm day to open them up and look for brood and the queen(which I almost
never see).




From mae@indy.net Mon Mar  8 09:23:57 EST 1999
Article: 16059 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: mary Ann Elmore 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Grease Patty
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 15:21:59 +0000
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There are no dumb questions!  Grease patties help control on of tracheal
mites which are devestating to Bees.  Like I tell my students if you
don't ask you may nevber know!

Tobi Mary;s Husband

Jenn Wilken wrote:
> 
> This may sound dumb but why would you want to feed grease patties to
> your bees?
> 
> Rob
> 
>


From jwilken@telusplanet.net Mon Mar  8 09:23:57 EST 1999
Article: 16060 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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This may sound dumb but why would you want to feed grease patties to your
bees?

Rob

 

 



From pascal66@globetrotter.net Mon Mar  8 09:23:58 EST 1999
Article: 16061 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pf 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Grease Patty
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 11:35:24 -0500
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To: =?iso-8859-1?Q?fran=E7ois?= et =?iso-8859-1?Q?b=E9atrice?= servel-merle 
	
Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16061



"françois et béatrice servel-merle" wrote:

>                   Name: Happy99.exe
>    Happy99.exe    Type: unspecified type (application/octet-stream)
>               Encoding: x-uuencode

WARNING:  WARNING: WARNING:  WARNING:  WARNING:   WARNING:
as I know, Happy 99 is a virus or more precisely a worm, called Happy 99
for
the last couple of days.
>Please make sure that you have not been infected by any way
>
>To verify if you have it:
>Check    c:\windows\system for the following files
>SKA.exe
>SKA.dll
>WSOCK32.ska
>If you have these files, you probably have the virus....
>There are different ways to cleanup the mess but I would suggest you
contact your system administrator to do that.


hope this will be helpfull                 pascal.




From BobCan@Clover.Net Mon Mar  8 09:23:59 EST 1999
Article: 16062 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Reply-To: "Bob" 
From: "Bob" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Extracting
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 11:59:50 -0500
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16062

Does anyone have any unique ways of extracting?  Home built ideas?  I was
thinking of getting a large tote box from Wal-Mart or like store and using
it for uncapping and maybe to set it up some how for just letting the honey
slowly drip out.




From phempel@ibm.net Mon Mar  8 09:24:00 EST 1999
Article: 16063 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: phempel@ibm.net (Philip Hempel)
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.beekeeping,alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Starter Colonies for April - May 199 Pickup In Michigan
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 10:23:40 -0500
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu alt.hobbies.beekeeping:74 sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16063

Excellant Pollination and or Starter Colonies!

Orders now accepted for Nine frame colonies complete with 1998-1999 queen 
and equipment. With fair to good equipment with or without Top cover, 
inner cover and bottom boards. Complete instructions for beginning 
beekeepers! Email (beeyard@blossomland.com) or call for details 
800.637.5262. 

Blossomland Supply
www.blossomland.com


From hk1beeman@aol.com Mon Mar  8 09:24:01 EST 1999
Article: 16064 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16064

WARNING WARNING

THIS POST CONTAINED A VIRUS

DO NOT RUN HAPPY99.EXE

WARNING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.





From harrisonrw@aol.com Mon Mar  8 09:24:02 EST 1999
Article: 16065 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Hi Cherish,

I also am the editor of our newsletter (the Beeline Monthly of the Western CT
Beekeepers Association). I glean some infor from a WEB site at: www.beenet.com

It is a very good site out of California.

Best Regards,
Ralph


From msimics@direct.ca Mon Mar  8 09:24:03 EST 1999
Article: 16066 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Michael Simics" 
Subject: Bee venom collection
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Hi All,

A beginner bee venom collection training course will be held on Sept. 15,
1999 during the Apimondia '99.  Please visit http://www.beevenom.com for
more information.

Michael Simics
Apitronic Services


From Frank@skymap.demon.co.uk Mon Mar  8 09:24:03 EST 1999
Article: 16067 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Frank Holloway 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Bee Puzzle
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 19:46:33 +0000
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Last Autumn I left my one and only remaining hive with a strong colony
of bees, two full supers of honey, in a hive fully protected from the
weather and definitely water proof.  Now the hive is full of emancipated
bee shell bits, only a handful of complete dead bee bodies, all the rest
are just shell bits, the floor is one inch deep with them.  It looks as
if something has eaten the bees, spitting out the skeleton shells.
Please has anybody out there got any ideas what happened?
-- 
Frank Holloway


From flemmin_@post10.tele.dk Mon Mar  8 09:24:04 EST 1999
Article: 16068 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Flemming Rasmussen" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: For U.S. (& Canadian) consumption only: Buckfast question
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 22:47:13 +0100
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John Caldeira skrev i meddelelsen <36ddf566.134616456@news.earthlink.net>...
>"Larry S. Farris"  wrote:
>>How Buckfast are the Weaver's "Buckfast" nowadays?
>
>Good question.  Without continuous genetic improvement, most organisms
>revert back to their less desirable natural types.  With continued
>selection, it may be a better bee, but perhaps not exactly "Buckfast".
>
>In any case, the Buckfast does not produce as well as a good Italian
>strain in Texas, in my opinion.
>
>-John
>
>
>John Caldeira
>Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
>http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/
>
Its the same here in Denmark. More and more preferes Italian.
Flemming. Bee and Nature Dep.
flemmin@post10.tele.dk





From hutchiso@ccp.com Mon Mar  8 09:24:05 EST 1999
Article: 16069 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Subject: Motor for extractor
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I have a series 1400 model 10 Maxant extractor and would like to mount a
motor on it.  any one have an idea where to get one or how to do it?




From honeybs@radix.net Mon Mar  8 09:24:05 EST 1999
Article: 16070 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee Puzzle
Date: Sun, 07 Mar 1999 21:38:41 GMT
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Frank Holloway  wrote:

>Last Autumn I left my one and only remaining hive with a strong colony
>of bees, two full supers of honey, in a hive fully protected from the
>weather and definitely water proof.  Now the hive is full of emancipated
>bee shell bits, only a handful of complete dead bee bodies, all the rest
>are just shell bits, the floor is one inch deep with them.  It looks as
>if something has eaten the bees, spitting out the skeleton shells.
>Please has anybody out there got any ideas what happened?
>-- 
>Frank Holloway

Mice will eat fresh dead bees and leave the shell.

Greg the beekeep



       //          Bee Just & Just Bee!        
  =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA    
       \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs

              



From Frank@skymap.demon.co.uk Mon Mar  8 09:24:06 EST 1999
Article: 16071 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Frank Holloway 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee Puzzle
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 22:19:49 +0000
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In article <36E2F236.2F0D@midwest.net>, AL  writes
>Frank Holloway wrote:
>> 
>> 
>
>
>There are some missing pieces to your puzzle.
>
>Are *all* the bees in the hive dead? If not, what is the general
>condition of the hive? 
>
>
>AL
Yes all the bees are dead, and all are on the floor, the combs are free
of any bees. Some of the brood comb is down to the base layer in places,
suggesting something has been in the hive, incidentally no mouse guard
was fitted this winter. It's been suggested mice will eat fresh dead
bees, but what killed them off to begin with? The winter here has been
very mild, and food was in plentiful supply.
-- 
Frank Holloway


From lithar@midwest.net Mon Mar  8 09:24:07 EST 1999
Article: 16072 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: AL 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee Puzzle
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Frank Holloway wrote:
> 
> Last Autumn I left my one and only remaining hive with a strong colony
> of bees, two full supers of honey, in a hive fully protected from the
> weather and definitely water proof.  Now the hive is full of emancipated
> bee shell bits, only a handful of complete dead bee bodies, all the rest
> are just shell bits, the floor is one inch deep with them.  It looks as
> if something has eaten the bees, spitting out the skeleton shells.
> Please has anybody out there got any ideas what happened?




There are some missing pieces to your puzzle.

Are *all* the bees in the hive dead? If not, what is the general
condition of the hive? 


AL


From calin@ozemail.com.au Mon Mar  8 09:24:07 EST 1999
Article: 16073 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Chris Allen 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Repairing hive body with epoxy?
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 1999 09:32:34 +1100
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Steve Huston wrote:

> <>  I was wondering, though, would patching the space with
> some newfangled filler like epoxy work?  Would the bees dislike it?

In my local boat shop I learnt about an epoxy product call Norseal.  When it
is mixed it is still very thin (like water),  As you slop (or pour) it on
the rotten timber it soaks right into the rotten timber and then stets.  You
end up with very strong "timber" that is probably stronger than the original
material.

This stuff tends to be a bit expensive but if the damaged area is not large
it is still cheaper than building an new box.

I doubt if the bees give a brss razoo about the epoxy (once it sets).

Regards
Chris Allen



From rjanney@pipeline.com Mon Mar  8 09:24:08 EST 1999
Article: 16074 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "MindSpring User" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: beekeeping and highfrequent electromagnetic waves
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 07:17:57 -0500
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Peter.Hofmann wrote in message <36D91F0A.F3AADCED@gi.anzeiger.net>...
>Does anyone know  something about possible influences on Bees or
>beekeeping by high frequent electromagnetic radiation? For example: has
>anyone noticed possible changes in beekeeping because of  nearby sited
>radiostations, radarantennas, basisstations for Mobil Communication
>(handheld telephones) and so on?
>I would be very grateful for some informations on this issue.
>
>Peter Hofmann
>
>
Hello Peter,
     I can not give you any info on how the bees production is affected
because I am starting out for the first time this year. What I can tell you
is that my hives are located at my work location.....a 50 KW AM Radio
transmitter site located in the meadowlands of Carlstadt NJ. The hives are
about 100 ft from the 4 towers and I will watch development to see how they
perform. We also have satellite downlink dishes & 2-way radio at this site.
Lets all hope the Bees like our format, least they can't complain about the
music....we do all news & financial info.




From bill_daniels@bellsouth.net Mon Mar  8 09:24:09 EST 1999
Article: 16075 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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What sort of agreements are appropriate with a landowner when
establishing a beeyard?  I am a new beekeeper and have located a fellow
that will let me keep a couple of hives on his rural property.  He seems
to be a very nice gentleman but I want to protect both him and me with
some sort of written agreement.  Somehow I don't think a formal
lawyer-written contract would be quite appropriate.  What do some of you
other U.S. beekeepers do or recommend for my situation?  Examples will
be more than welcome.

Thanks,

Bill Daniels



From richxen@yahoo.com Mon Mar  8 09:24:09 EST 1999
Article: 16076 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Richard Xenides
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: there is a bit of a buzz in here:)) - NG-Q-A.txt (0/1)
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HEh if you like a lil work that is :)
Yes, yet another survey:)
I have an assignment to complete and time is running out.
So maybe the NET will help?
Please checkout the attached text and do what you will.
All hands make light work, yes?
Any queries, will get to me.
Thanks for listening :)
Cya
REX


From richxen@yahoo.com Wed Mar 10 06:05:58 EST 1999
Article: 16077 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Richard Xenides
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: there is a bit of a buzz in here:)) - NG-Q-A.txt (0/1)
Organization: CSU
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Hi,,
Thankyou for what input you can give.
All of this is information I require to be able to structure my paper
on "Software Distribution". None of the resulting comments/deductions
will be published outside of my college. The response should follow
the format below
(1 for a high rating to 5 for a low rating), however feel free to
respond in any format that suits yourself.
Please forward the completed file to 
If you require acknowledgement of receipt of your response, please
indicate and I will get back to you.
Again, thanks for the effort :)

Richard Xenides

+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+
Disclaimer: MS refers to the Trademark of Microsoft®. In no way is
Microsoft® or any other software manufacturer/distributor connected
with this survey. 
Any information gathered is for educational purposes only and will not
be used in any other manner. 
+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+**+*+*+


============================================================================
1. Give yourself a rating for general awareness of MS product
availability.
   <1-->5>
2  From what you know of software users preferences, rate the use of
MS                products.
   <1-->5>
3. When looking to buy software rate the value gained from initial
exposure       to the MS product, based on labelling, catalogs,
advertising or    demonstration.
   <1-->5>
4. After first use of a purchased/trialled MS product rate the initial
value       to you of the program.
   <1-->5>
5. During the time you have used the product have you required any
assistance?
   If NO go to Q.11
6. Did you contact MS online support? (microsoft.com or similar)
   If NO go to Q.11
7. Rate the response time to your enquiry.
   <1-->5>
8. Rate the value to you of any answer
   <1-->5>
9. Given MS products global distribution, indicate the level the
response       displayed understanding of your needs/dilemna in
consideration of you as       a user.
   <1-->5>
10. Having made the enquiry and followed the response, rate the
resultant         level of satisfaction.
    <1-->5>
11. Think of the whole of the solution process you experienced and
rate the         component of MS HELP you received.
    <1-->5>
12. When evaluating your software needs now, rate the priority you
would     attach to MS products.
    <1-->5>

===========================================================================
Thankyou :)

REX



From ocm@eidolon.no Wed Mar 10 06:05:59 EST 1999
Article: 16078 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "oC" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Mead-breweries
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Hi,

Can anyone give information on where I might find a small-scale commercial
mead-brewery, in the US or in Europe?

best1s
Ole Chr. Magneshaugen
Norway




From s022kds@discover.wright.edu Wed Mar 10 06:06:00 EST 1999
Article: 16079 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: KENDAL SMUCKER 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: one or two
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 17:10:16 -0500
Organization: Wright State University
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On Thu, 25 Feb 1999, R & S Adams wrote:

> Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 19:19:38 -0600
> From: R & S Adams 
> Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
> Subject: one or two
> 
> I was wondering how other beekeepers feel about one brood box or two?   Some
> pros and cons would bee nice         R.P. Adams
> 
Sir Mr. Adams:

I noticed your query and decided to put my two cents in.  I used to run 4
or 5 two-story hives, averaging about 85 pounds each.  then I heard about
using 3-story hives and coupled that with the two-queen management system.
I now expect nothing less than 150 pounds at the same location.  guys
further north in the same county can get 200 (they're on alkaline soil and
get more clovers). write back, if you're interested and I'll see if I can
dig up a few articles from my files for you to consider.

considerations:  are you a hobbyist, lots of time, poor back?  stay with
one box, perhaps two.  not a lot of time, but back is good?  I collapsed 5
hives' equipment into 4 and never looked back.  i'm expanding wide at
present, but when I reach my limit i will build production towers. > > 

Whatever you do, commit to your bees. Never let two calendar weeks go by
without poking into at least one hive and checking the brood pattern. Do
you have a local beekeeper you can get to mentor you and cry on his/her
shoulder?  If not, get one, if you can't, say so.  there's lots of us out
here.

Kendal D. Smucker
School of Graduate Studies
Wright State University
Logan/Shelby county inspector






From nomail@nomail.uk Wed Mar 10 06:06:00 EST 1999
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From: nomail@nomail.uk (Follow me)
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Subject: 100% ANONYMOUS, NO CREDIT CARD, NO SUBSCRIPTION, NO PASSWORD,NOCENSURING
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 06:52:04 GMT
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100% ANONYMOUS, NO CREDIT CARD, NO SUBSCRIPTION, NO PASSWORD,NOCENSURING
Italian
www.thirdsex.com
English
www.xxx1on1.com


From twentyone@clara.co.uk Wed Mar 10 06:06:01 EST 1999
Article: 16081 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Nick Templar" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.fruit,sci.agriculture.poultry,sci.agriculture.ratites,sci.anthropology,sci.anthropology.paleo,sci.aquaria,sci.archaeology,sci.archaeology.mesoamerican,sci.astro
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There's always a sting!




From twentyone@clara.co.uk Wed Mar 10 06:06:02 EST 1999
Article: 16082 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Nick Templar" 
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I repair damaged hives quite often and use a UK product called Isopon Car
Body Filler.  It has no effect on the bees and stops them escaping when I
transport the hives.  Regrettably it doesn't stop the Woodpeckers pecking
around the filler the next year ... but that's another story!

Regards

Nick





From lauramleek@aol.com Wed Mar 10 06:06:02 EST 1999
Article: 16083 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Subject: Re: one or two
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16083

Mr Smucker,
    Could you please expound on this system of 3 story hives and 2 queens? I am
assuming you are using 3 western supers. Sound quite interesting.

thanks,

Laura


From postmaster@shadforth.u-net.com Wed Mar 10 06:06:03 EST 1999
Article: 16084 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: postmaster@shadforth.u-net.com (Alan Craig)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Mead-breweries
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On Tue, 9 Mar 1999 01:24:27 +0100, "oC"  wrote:

Kjaere Ole

there is a mead brewery on Holy Island (Lindisfarne) off the North
East coast of England.  The address is:

Lindisfarne Ltd.
St. Aidan's Winery
The Holy Island of Lindisfarne
Northumberland,
England TD15 2RX

med hilsener

Alan

>Hi,
>
>Can anyone give information on where I might find a small-scale commercial
>mead-brewery, in the US or in Europe?
>
>best1s
>Ole Chr. Magneshaugen
>Norway
>
>



From BobCan@Clover.Net Wed Mar 10 06:06:03 EST 1999
Article: 16085 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Reply-To: "Bob" 
From: "Bob" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Feeding
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 07:43:57 -0500
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16085

I was wondering if putting dry pollen substitute "Bee-Pro" in a Division
board feeder, for deep supers would cause any problems. I am using a 1
gallon bucket feeder sitting on the inner and a terra pad on the broad
frames and was wondering if placing "Bee-Pro" in the Division board feeder
DRY would cause a potential problems





From k7vqu@fpbyram.com Wed Mar 10 06:06:04 EST 1999
Article: 16086 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: k7vqu@fpbyram.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Bee Culture Biz
Date: 9 Mar 1999 14:55:39 GMT
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Hi All:

I used to work for Sandoz Ag. a while back as a research assistant and knew
some of the folks that did the original work on Apistan  (hope it is spelled
 right).

I have always wondered what the Bee Biz is like these days and would like to
 see if there are any operators in the San Francisco CA or Sacramento area t
hat I could talk to.  I am curious as to how people make a living producing
honey
or renting their hives out for pollination.  I sound from what I have read
like an earnway that I would like to find out more about.  For California be
ing as big in the Ag industry as it is I have found very little on the web a
bout CA based apiaries.


Thanks

Mark


Net-Tamer V 1.11 - Test Drive...  Making a 286 do email



From tceisele@mtu.edu Wed Mar 10 06:06:04 EST 1999
Article: 16087 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Timothy C. Eisele 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Wax foundation shipping
Date: 9 Mar 1999 14:37:29 GMT
Organization: Michigan Technological University
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I've seen warnings in several books that, if pure wax foundation
is shipped in cold weather, it becomes very brittle and a lot of 
the sheets will arrive broken.  My question is, how cold is 
"cold weather"?  Do I only have to worry about this in the dead
of winter when it's so cold outside that the snow squeaks?  Or
is it still a problem for as long as the temperature dips below
freezing at night?  

Incidentally, I live in the upper peninsula of Michigan, next
to Lake Superior, so our temperatures hover around freezing until
early May most years.  If I have to wait until then to order my
foundation, maybe I should just go with one of the plastic types.

--
Tim Eisele
tceisele@mtu.edu 


From anglin@mi.verio.com Wed Mar 10 06:06:05 EST 1999
Article: 16088 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Anglin" 
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Griffes@my-dejanews.com wrote in message
<7bv56e$qo4$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com>...
>When: 12 & 13 March 1999; registration begins at 9am each day
>
>Where: Michigan State University; Kellogg Center; Lincoln Room
>
here is the scoop on the meeting.

Hive Raffle- $1.00 per ticket, or 6 for $5.
Registration- $5 per person, $10.00 per family
Silent Auction to benefit the Honey Queen program.

Special room rate at Kellog Center $ 65- Must Request!
            1-800-875-5090

The schedule is
Friday, March 12
9 am Register
9:20 Video- The world of Bees
10:20 Door Prizes
10:30 Lecture- "The social organization of Honeybees"
11:15 Lecture: "Small Hive Beetle and other new probems in
            beekeeping"
12:00 Luncheon & Speaker "Establishing a bee friendly
            landscape"   Menu- Pork Tenderloin, Vegetarian and
             alternative entree's available $15.00
2:00 Lecture- "The diversity of Honeybees"
2:45 Break
3:00 Door Prizes
3:10 Michigan Honey Queen candidates introduced.
3:40 Lecture- "Rearing your own queens"
4:25 Questions and Answers
Dinner Break
7:30 pm Michigan Honey Queen Pageant- Kellog Auditorium

Saturday March 13
9:00 Registration
9:30 Video- "Varroa Mite"
10:00 Video "Tracheal Mite Detection/ Prevention/ Cure."
10:30 Door Prizes
10:40 Lecture- Honey bee mites: Biology and management."
11:25 Lecture- "Beekeeping in Ghana"
12:00 Lunch Break- fend for yourself.
2:00 pm Lecture- "Spring Management"
2:45 Break
3:15 Lecture- "Migratory Beekeeping"
4:00 Hive Raffle
4:15 Questions and answers on any topic.




From samduke@farlep.net Wed Mar 10 06:06:06 EST 1999
Article: 16089 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "samduke" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: ëõðéí úåòîï÷ùå - ðòåäìáçáêôå (óí.ðéóøíï)
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 17:58:05 -0500
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From jcrocket@alltel.net Wed Mar 10 06:06:06 EST 1999
Article: 16090 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: James Lindstrom 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee less in California
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 18:46:43 -0400
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hothouserose@my-dejanews.com wrote:
> 
> I am not a bee keeper, but I have a vegetable garden and no bees. A past
> neighbor destroyed a local hive in a field and I have had a bugger of a time
> trying to attract more. Is there is a way I can attract them?
> 
> Also has there been a run on the bees? It seems like every hive spotted by
> human kind is destroyed. Is this because of the killer bee panic, or is this
> buisness as usuall?

No, it's not business as usual, but anyone out there destroying hives is
an ass. Attracting bees can be an exciting adventure. Banging on pots
was popular for a long time--and ineffective for about as long. Now
there are pheromone baits that work if there is a swarm about to take
off. But to get a bunch of bees to give up there chosen home and move
elsewhere is futile.

Set up a hive and care for the bees on your own and you'll have
pollination AND honey for your own uses, not for the fool who destroyed
th nearby hive.

Jim Lindstrom
Oak Forest, PA
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From gstyLer@worldnet.att.net Wed Mar 10 06:06:07 EST 1999
Article: 16091 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "George Styer" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee less in California
Date: 10 Mar 1999 01:01:35 GMT
Organization: Productive Solutions
Lines: 44
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It is too bad that there are people out there destroying feral colonies
when there is no apparent reason. You don't say what part of CA you are
>from  but so far the Africanized honey bees (AHB) are not a problem outside
of a few counties if So. CA. The absense of honey bees in your garden is
typical since the arrival of the varroa mite. Feral colonies will usually
collapse within 2 years. If there is not anyone within about a 1.5 mile
radius of you keeping bees, you will see very few in your garden. The
occasional feral colony will move in but it is only a matter of time before
it collapses.

Beekeeping is a wonderful hobby that I would encourage you to try. If you
live near Sacramento, I am always looking for locations to set up
additional hives to expand my hobby.

Besides honey bees, there are several other species that are important
pollinators. For lots of info, go to:

http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html
-- 
Geo
"Honey is sweet, but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
Get the "L" out of there to reply via e-mail


hothouserose@my-dejanews.com wrote in article
<7c42oc$2ne$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com>...
> I am not a bee keeper, but I have a vegetable garden and no bees. A past
> neighbor destroyed a local hive in a field and I have had a bugger of a
time
> trying to attract more. Is there is a way I can attract them?
> 
> Also has there been a run on the bees? It seems like every hive spotted
by
> human kind is destroyed. Is this because of the killer bee panic, or is
this
> buisness as usuall?
> 
> Hothouse Rose
> 
> -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
> http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own  
 
> 


From countrymeadow@ibm.net Wed Mar 10 06:06:08 EST 1999
Article: 16092 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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>If the warm weather keeps up and the food is coming in.   I
> place a super on the hive immediatly after I remove the Apistan and I
> try to get it in the hives as early as I can.  I think Aaron is right
> "super now".
> --
> Kent Stienburg
> Remove NOSPAM to reply.

As they say all good things must come to an end. Last week it was in the
60 today it is in the 30 with an inch of snow and sleet.

What should I be looking for to insure that my hive do not starve during
this cold snap. Most of the hives are strong. Several hives have 3 o 5
deep frams of Honey. However two hives are full of bees stores are
lower. Any advice?


From jcaldeira@earthlink.net Wed Mar 10 06:06:08 EST 1999
Article: 16093 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: jcaldeira@earthlink.net (John Caldeira)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Nice site, John
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 05:03:53 GMT
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"Carolyn"  wrote:
>EXCELLENT.  I enjoyed all the information and the site...well worth a visit.
>Wish I could figure out how to save the pictures. Carolyn, still a reader,
>not a bee keeper yet.
>

Thank you, Carolyn.  I try to present photos that stimulate ideas and
a love for bees, and appreciate your feedback.  

To save an image in most operating systems, right-click your mouse and
select "save image as" or "save as"...

-John

John Caldeira
Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/



From mcgarryt@westelcom.com Thu Mar 11 09:41:56 EST 1999
Article: 16094 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "mcgarryt" 
Subject: division board feeders
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does anyone have any experience using division board feeders in early
spring in the north? What is the possibility that a queen may
accidentially fall or crawl into the syrup and drown? 
--
Posted via Talkway - http://www.talkway.com
Surf Usenet at home, on the road, and by email -- always at Talkway.



From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Thu Mar 11 09:41:57 EST 1999
Article: 16095 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Mead-breweries
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 99 07:56:58 EST
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In article <7c3t00$dk9$2@miri.tele.dk>
"Swienty A/S"  writes:
 
>
>Try BetterBee in Greenwich, NY, or contact me personally.
>
Bjorn,
 
Betterbee is temporarily out of the mead business with no immediate plans
to start producion again.
 
Sincerely,
Aaron Morris - 30 miles from Greenwich and a former regular mead customer.


From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Thu Mar 11 09:41:57 EST 1999
Article: 16096 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Wax foundation shipping
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 99 08:00:53 EST
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In article <7c3bn9$5rm$1@campus1.mtu.edu>
Timothy C. Eisele  writes:
 
> ... wax foundation ... cold weather ...
> is it still a problem for as long as the temperature dips below
> freezing at night?
I'm not sure of the answer to this but I'm positive the supplier will know.
Call an 800 number (so it's their dime) and explain your situation.  If it's
a problem the supplier will tell you so.  They won't ship something they
know they'll have to replace.  Let us know how you make out.
 
> ...  maybe I should just go with one of the plastic types.
This would be my recommendation, regardless of the temperature.
 
Aaron Morris - thinking I'll never use wax foundation again!


From hamilton@pbssite.com Thu Mar 11 09:41:58 EST 1999
Article: 16097 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: hamilton@pbssite.com (Dave Hamilton)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: nuc plans anywhere
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 13:10:35 GMT
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Want to test my wood working skills again.  Has anyone seen plans for
nucs on the internet?

Thanks in advance


From beegrl@webtv.net Thu Mar 11 09:41:58 EST 1999
Article: 16098 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: beegrl@webtv.net (Cherish Tietsworth)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Beekeeping newsletters
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I am the newsletter editor for my local  beekeeping group.  And since
there is only so much I can write about bee diseases and  Varroa mites
in the course of a year!  I am looking for different types of articles
to include in the newsletter.  If anyone has a funny beekeeping story or
a bit of information that I could print, I would appreciate it.  Thank
you.






From beegrl@webtv.net Thu Mar 11 09:41:59 EST 1999
Article: 16099 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: beegrl@webtv.net (Cherish Tietsworth)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Grease Patty
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 23:37:12 -0500 (EST)
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I've read that beekeepers use the grease/sugar patty to help contol
Varroa mites.  When the honey bee eats the sugar out of the grease
patty, her body become lightly covered in grease.  The mites live on the
outside of the bees body so when the bees are covered with grease the
mites think that the bee is dead and it leaves.  If you want more
information read Diane Sammataro's book- THE BEEKEEPERS HANDBOOK, she
did a lot of the premier research in this field. 






From kaw535@aol.com Thu Mar 11 09:42:00 EST 1999
Article: 16100 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: kaw535@aol.com (KAW 535)
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Subject: Re: Grease Patty
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use crisco .mix with sugar to a clay like consist. place a patty on top of
broodframes. patty should be about the size of a hamberger bun bottom
section..good luck


From wmb@stc.net Thu Mar 11 09:42:01 EST 1999
Article: 16101 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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I want to try making a few splits from my hives this spring, do I need
to feed the bees a pollen substitute to get them to build up early.
Has anyone have any ideals about this.



From abchome@webzone.net Thu Mar 11 09:42:02 EST 1999
Article: 16102 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Donald Franson 
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I just bought some drone foundation from Betterbee.  the price was $20.00 per
10 sheets Plus shipping.   came in 10 sheet boxes packed from AI ROOT,  You
might try AI ROOT first to see if it is any cheaper directly from them.
Donald Franson

BobPursley wrote:

>   I am looking for a source for drone foundation, not the kelley 7/11, but
> regular size.  Any ideas?  Thanks.



From pollinator@aol.com Mon Mar 15 20:52:50 EST 1999
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    February had an outstanding maple flow this year, and most hives look
really nice. This is an illusion that fools many inexperienced beekeepers. I
want to drum in the concept that bees are not self sustaining until about April
1, even in the south.

    In fact there is a dearth right now, depsite all the apparent bloom. And
the strongest hives are the ones that will suffer first, because they are
rearing a lot of brood. If their food supply is depleted, and they are living
day to day on what little nectar is available, they can starve down in just
three or four days of bad weather.

    Take the handhold on the back of the hive and heft it. If it feels light,
feed. You are only safe if it feels like it is anchored to the ground.

    Furthermore, yellow jasmine is starting to bloom about two weeks early.
Yellow jasmine is poisonous to the brood. Most of the time there are other more
attractive nectar sources and bees will ignore yellow jasmine. But if there is
little else, they will work this flower and brood will die. I have never seen a
hive killed by yellow jasmine, but I've seen some set back quite badly by loss
of brood.

   By feeding thin syrup at this time, you will give the bees an alternative to
yellow jasmine and reduce the poison damage.

   I want to emphasize this again:  NOW is the time to check, and likely feed,
your bees in the southeast. Northern beekeepers have a little more time left.
Bees consume very little honey through the winter here, but consume enormous
amounts when they begin serious brood rearing. They can outrun their food
supply very quickly.

   Hives that starve may survive, but the bees, in a desperate move may suck
the body fluids from the brood, so that the adults may survive. A hive that has
gone down this far, will take a LONG time to recover, probably not until after
the spring honey flow.

    Don't don't assume that your bees that hung out the entrance during the
maple flow are just fine now. CHECK! You may be amazed at how fast a hungry
hive can dwindle.

    If you open them up, keep in mind that open cells of nectar/honey do not
count a bit for reserves; only sealed honey counts, and a hive should still
have a couple frames of sealed honey, or it better have a feeder on it.


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Mon Mar 15 20:52:52 EST 1999
Article: 16104 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: division board feeders
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 99 08:42:13 EST
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In article <5ZtF2.17139$po.6482@c01read02.service.talkway.com>
"mcgarryt"  writes:
 
> ... division board feeders in early
>spring in the north? What is the possibility that a queen may
>accidentially fall or crawl into the syrup and drown?
 
Always possible but not likely.  Can't say as I have ever seen it.  But
an unavoidable problem with dbf is that bees drown.  Floats help but bees
still drown.  There is a redesigned dbf that comes with floats included -
new this year in Betterbee catalog, perhaps also Mann Lake.  I have not
used these new dbf.
 
Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee!


From hothouserose@my-dejanews.com Mon Mar 15 20:52:53 EST 1999
Article: 16105 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: hothouserose@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: California Bee Problem Thanks for the Help
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 15:34:42 GMT
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Thank you for all your help. I think my back yard is to small for a hive, so
I am going to try some of the baiting techniques for now. I will be buying
property soon in the Sacramento Area and it sounds like a hobby worth a look
see. Thanks again.

Hothouse Rose

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From kingsley@iol.it Mon Mar 15 20:52:54 EST 1999
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From: "JJ" 
Newsgroups: news.misc.culture.nigeria,news.misc.culture.pacific-island,news.misc.culture.syria,news.misc.culture.ukrainian,sci.agriculture,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.fruit,sci.agriculture.poultry,sci.agriculture.ratites,soc.culture.afghanista
Subject: Download Free Phone PC to PC
Date: 11 Mar 1999 19:00:16 GMT
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A NEW SOFTWARE ON THE NET.

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FREE PHONE PC TO PC.

Please visit the link below for your free download.

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Please if you find this site to be of good resource endevour to
forward it to your friends and associates.

Regards
Kingsley Uyi
efo@bigfoot.com



From neil.carter@wave.home.com Mon Mar 15 20:52:56 EST 1999
Article: 16107 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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I am thinking about trying to produce some comb honey from one or two
hives this year using Ross Rounds. Any suggestions, tips, or help would
be appreciated.

Have read Richard Taylor's book - any other good "how to" books
available ?

Neil Carter


From phempel@ibm.net Mon Mar 15 20:52:57 EST 1999
Article: 16108 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: phempel@ibm.net (Philip Hempel)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Comb Honey Production - SectionComb_Insts.PDF [0/2]
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 21:01:54 -0500
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[This followup was posted to sci.agriculture.beekeeping and a copy was 
sent to the cited author.]

The pdf file (read with the free Adobe Reader 3.x download from 
www.adobe.com if you do not have) attachment may help you and your comb 
honey production. We usually give this to our customers who by the Ross 
Round Comb Honey Kit.

If you need any more assistance email me I have a beekeeping management 
document that deals with good two queen efforts and is intended for comb 
honey production.

Blossomland Supply
www.blossomland.com

Philip Hempel
beeyard@blossomland.com



In article <36E803FE.F74F39BC@wave.home.com>, neil.carter@wave.home.com 
says...
> I am thinking about trying to produce some comb honey from one or two
> hives this year using Ross Rounds. Any suggestions, tips, or help would
> be appreciated.
> 
> Have read Richard Taylor's book - any other good "how to" books
> available ?
> 
> Neil Carter
> 


From griffes@my-dejanews.com Mon Mar 15 20:52:58 EST 1999
Article: 16109 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: griffes@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Drone foundation
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 04:29:17 GMT
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In article <19990309091918.24786.00000045@ng18.aol.com>,
  bobpursley@aol.com (BobPursley) wrote:
>   I am looking for a source for drone foundation, not the kelley 7/11, but
> regular size.  Any ideas?  Thanks.
>

when I purchased drone foundation some years ago it was from Root - it came
in boxes of 10 sheets

Now when we need drone comb we just insert EMPTY frames between good straight
brood comb DURING swarm season - as long as there is not much drone comb in
the hive they tend to draw it pure or nearly pure drone comb then when they
NEED drones.


Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
Onsted, MI
USA
http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

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From workwax@aol.com Mon Mar 15 20:52:59 EST 1999
Article: 16110 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Subject: Re: Anybody want an IDEA for killing varroa?
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i own a bee business and am interest in your development for varroa.  i have
helped do some research on this pest and also sell a few bee supplies. please
send info to randall's wax works, 389 s. central ave., umatilla, fl 32784.
thanks


From Carar@twlakes.net Mon Mar 15 20:53:00 EST 1999
Article: 16111 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Carolyn" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Nice site, John
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EXCELLENT.  I enjoyed all the information and the site...well worth a visit.
Wish I could figure out how to save the pictures. Carolyn, still a reader,
not a bee keeper yet.




From allend@internode.net Mon Mar 15 20:53:02 EST 1999
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> It looks as
> if something has eaten the bees, spitting out the skeleton shells.
> Please has anybody out there got any ideas what happened?

Shews, or a shrew. See http://members.vienna.at/shrew/inquiries.html

Shrews look at first glance like a tiny mouse, but with a longer sharper
nose. They can get through very small openings, and 1/4" mesh hardware cloth
has been suggested to me as a solution.  They appear some years out of
nowhere and can clean out a hive in a short time.  Another year, they will
not be around.

Shrews have a very high metabolism and a voracious appetite.  It has been said
that if you put two shrews in a pickle jar overnight, only one will remain in
the morning.  They can take on a bee head-to-head with no problem.  In winter,
the bees are also rather slow, and offer no contest.

A shrew will usually eat the choice cuts and discard the rest of the insect.

Allen

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From swedenborg@my-dejanews.com Mon Mar 15 20:53:05 EST 1999
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: looking into beekeeping Steve Huston
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In article <36C8C1A6.A9EA602D@riverace.com>,
  Steve Huston  wrote:
> Hi Shelly,
>
> I'm pretty much starting out too (I spent last year working with my dad
> on his hives - this year I start my own).  From what I've learned there,
> and so far in the local beekeeping class this year...
> Hi Steve. I do not know where you are living. I live in Brandon Manitoba
Canada. You should try to find your state or provincial apiarist. should be
found in Govt. white pages or blue pages. He/She would be a great help to find
queen rearing locally to you. Hope this helps. Edgar a beekeeper.
> Shelley Corbin wrote:
> >
> > i would like to look into bee keeping a small hive. how should i start
>
> 1. Read.
> 2. Find someone else near you who has been doing it a while and see if
> you can tag along and/or talk with them about bees.
> 3. See if you can find a local beekeeping association or group and go to
> some meetings.
>
> > and where do i get the bees?
>
> I'm not sure of the best answer... I'm getting mine from my dad
> splitting one of his hives, and I ordered a queen to go in it.  There
> are lots of ads in magazines (Bee Culture, American Bee Journal) but I'm
> not sure how to tell which are best for any one situation.  If you can
> get them locally, it's probably easier on the bees than being mailed.
>
> > what are the best books?
>
> Again, my experience doesn't qualify me to judge "best". I have 2, and
> the one I like so far is "Beekeeping - A Practical Guide" by Richard E.
> Bonney.  ISBN 0-88266-861-7.
>
> > how much should it cost?
>
> I've heard estimates that vary... most common seems to be about $300 for
> equipment (hive and protective) and bees.  Might be able to save some by
> finding used equipment, but be careful of diseases in used hives.
>
> Have fun!
>
> -Steve
>
> --
> Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
> Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
> Specializing in TCP/IP, CORBA, ACE        (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
> Expertise to help your projects succeed   We support ACE!
>


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From beecrofter@aol.comBee Mon Mar 15 20:53:06 EST 1999
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What happened to the meadery?
I still have a case of the raspberry now it is going to be beyond special.


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


From gwest7t@rectec.net Mon Mar 15 20:53:07 EST 1999
Article: 16115 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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A most interesting thing happened the other day as I was out in the bee
yard checking  the feeders. I have my hives sitting  on a wooden pallet
and the pallet is on cement blocks. The temp was about 48 degrees f and
the wind was cold that day. There should not have been very many bees
out. I looked under the hive, in between the pallet boards, and there
were 300-500 bees under each hive sitting there. They were facing the
wind. There was not any bees around the entrance of the hive.
Explanations  & comments  and ideas welcome.
gw



From honeybs@radix.net Mon Mar 15 20:53:09 EST 1999
Article: 16116 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs)
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Subject: Re: bees and eclipse
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catherine carlyon  wrote:

>Does anyone have any experience of a total solar eclipse and the effect
>upon bees?  Should one take any precautions like keeping bees in or will
>they adjust natually?

>mojo

They have gotten by the 50 million years without an eclipse
problem, so why will it bother them now?  The real question
is will they be able to fly after Y2K?

Greg the beekeep



       //          Bee Just & Just Bee!        
  =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA    
       \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs

              



From mdrbees@aol.com Mon Mar 15 20:53:10 EST 1999
Article: 16117 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: mdrbees@aol.com (MDRbees)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Division Board Feeder Floats ??
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Does anyone have an idea or experience with an effective, cheap,simple, and
easy float for division board feeders. I already have screened inserts but
still loose more to drowing than I like. Thanks..........Mike


From jcaldeira@earthlink.net Mon Mar 15 20:53:11 EST 1999
Article: 16118 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: jcaldeira@earthlink.net (John Caldeira)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Comb Honey Production
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 23:38:55 GMT
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Neil Carter  wrote:
>I am thinking about trying to produce some comb honey from one or two
>hives this year using Ross Rounds. Any suggestions, tips, or help would
>be appreciated.

Ross Rounds may be a good way to go, but you might also consider
producing cut-comb honey.  Cut-comb honey and cut-comb inside jars of
extracted honey are less expensive to produce than Ross Rounds.  Each
Ross Round unit requires two rings, two covers and a label, costing
over 50 cents per 8 ounce round -- plus the cost of the special
super/frames and the crowding of bees required.  

In contrast, cut-comb honey can be sold in clear plastic "clam-style"
boxes for less than half that cost, and there is very little
incremental cost to putting cut-comb inside extracted honey jars. 

-John    

John Caldeira
Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/



From shuston@riverace.com Mon Mar 15 20:53:12 EST 1999
Article: 16119 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Steve Huston 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Comb Honey Production
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 18:58:56 -0500
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Peter Edwards wrote:
> 
> ... but do warn your customers that the wax will be contaminated and should
> not be eaten if you use Apistan or Bayvarol!

Is this true even if the comb honey super(s) are not on the hive at the
same time as Apistan is in?

> Aaron Morris wrote in message <182FF6769S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>...
> >In article <36E803FE.F74F39BC@wave.home.com>
> >Neil Carter  writes:
> >
> >> ... produce some comb honey ... Ross Rounds.
> >>

-- 
Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
Specializing in TCP/IP, CORBA, ACE        (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
Expertise to help your projects succeed   We support ACE!


From edwards.p@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk Mon Mar 15 20:53:13 EST 1999
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Subject: Re: Comb Honey Production
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... but do warn your customers that the wax will be contaminated and should
not be eaten if you use Apistan or Bayvarol!
Aaron Morris wrote in message <182FF6769S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>...
>In article <36E803FE.F74F39BC@wave.home.com>
>Neil Carter  writes:
>
>> ... produce some comb honey ... Ross Rounds.
>>





From lithar@midwest.net Mon Mar 15 20:53:15 EST 1999
Article: 16121 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: AL 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: bees and eclipse
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 20:18:23 -0600
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honeybs wrote:
> 
> catherine carlyon  wrote:
> 
> >Does anyone have any experience of a total solar eclipse and the effect
> >upon bees?  Should one take any precautions like keeping bees in or will
> >they adjust natually?
> 
> >mojo
> 
> They have gotten by the 50 million years without an eclipse
> problem, so why will it bother them now?  The real question
> is will they be able to fly after Y2K?
> 
> Greg the beekeep
>



You don't really want to open *that* can of worms, again, do you???

AL


From bill-c@ellijay.com Mon Mar 15 20:53:15 EST 1999
Article: 16122 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: "William Cantrell" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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I use small wood chunks split from scrap. Put enough in your feeder to cover
about 80% of the surface and you'll see a big drop in the number dead bees
in your feeder.

William
MDRbees wrote in message <19990312192018.26162.00000153@ng-ca1.aol.com>...
>Does anyone have an idea or experience with an effective, cheap,simple, and
>easy float for division board feeders. I already have screened inserts but
>still loose more to drowing than I like. Thanks..........Mike




From jkimbro@midtown.net Mon Mar 15 20:53:16 EST 1999
Article: 16123 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: JKimbro 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee less in California
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 20:46:06 -0800
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Like someone already said,,,you didn't really say where in CA. you were,,,,but
now is prime time to catch yourself a swarm.  I've already had three swarm calls
in Sacramento!  Get yourself one of those pulp boxes with a little pheromone
,,,and you could get lucky.  If your around the Sacto. area,,,,,you pay for the
box and frames and the next swarm I get is yours!  Such a deal

hothouserose@my-dejanews.com wrote:

> I am not a bee keeper, but I have a vegetable garden and no bees. A past
> neighbor destroyed a local hive in a field and I have had a bugger of a time
> trying to attract more. Is there is a way I can attract them?
>
> Also has there been a run on the bees? It seems like every hive spotted by
> human kind is destroyed. Is this because of the killer bee panic, or is this
> buisness as usuall?
>
> Hothouse Rose
>
> -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
> http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own



From allend@internode.net Mon Mar 15 20:53:18 EST 1999
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Subject: Re: Comb Honey Production
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> I am thinking about trying to produce some comb honey from one or two
> hives this year using Ross Rounds.

Visit http://www.RossRounds.com

Allen

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


From amschelp@pe.net Mon Mar 15 20:53:19 EST 1999
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Subject: Re: Bee less in California
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Thanks for the info and suggestion, dude! I am bee less too, my bee 
babies having either departed from my top bar hive when I did tree 
surgery on the tree I had them hanging in, or worse...
So where can we pick up one of these little groovy pheromone boxes? I 
don't remember seeing one in the new Dadant catalogue, and what should I 
do, call the Chief of police and fire and ask them to please call me 
(only until I get one swarm, please, Chief :0)) if they have a report of 
a swarm? 

In article <36E9ED8E.F25F8964@midtown.net>, jkimbro@midtown.net says...
> Like someone already said,,,you didn't really say where in CA. you were,,,,but
> now is prime time to catch yourself a swarm.  I've already had three swarm calls
> in Sacramento!  
> Get yourself one of those pulp boxes with a little pheromone
> ,,,and you could get lucky.  If your around the Sacto. area,,,,,you pay for the
> box and frames and the next swarm I get is yours!  Such a deal
> 
> hothouserose@my-dejanews.com wrote:
> 
> > I am not a bee keeper, but I have a vegetable garden and no bees. A past
> > neighbor destroyed a local hive in a field and I have had a bugger of a time
> > trying to attract more. Is there is a way I can attract them?
> >
> > Also has there been a run on the bees? It seems like every hive spotted by
> > human kind is destroyed. Is this because of the killer bee panic, or is this
> > buisness as usuall?
> >
> > Hothouse Rose
> >
> > -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
> > http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own
> 
> 


From michaelc@glenrowan.demon.co.uk Mon Mar 15 20:53:20 EST 1999
Article: 16126 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: michael charters 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: swarms
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 12:21:14 +0000
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It is early days yet down here in south west England. I lost one of my
hives in the winter. It is amazing that it was the strongest colony. The
one that took in the greatest amount of winter feed. 

I would be very interested to hear from all you people in the US if the
apocryphal stories I hear about swarm recovery are true.

Our local society has a swarm officer. He gets plenty of calls from late
May to July. He simply phones one of the members and we go out and
collect the swarm. A simple enough job that I have done - unless, as has
happened, the swarm is stuck inside a seven hundred year old chimney or
on top of some power lines.

Is it true that swarm recovery can actually cost you? That you might
even have to pay a pest prevention fee?
-- 
michael charters


From pollinator@aol.com Mon Mar 15 20:53:21 EST 1999
Article: 16127 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bees on ledge
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From: gwest7t@rectec.net

>A most interesting thing happened the other day as I was out in the bee
>yard checking  the feeders. I have my hives sitting  on a wooden pallet
>and the pallet is on cement blocks. The temp was about 48 degrees f and
>the wind was cold that day. There should not have been very many bees
>out. I looked under the hive, in between the pallet boards, and there
>were 300-500 bees under each hive sitting there. They were facing the
>wind. There was not any bees around the entrance of the hive.
>Explanations  & comments  and ideas welcome.

   Did you have a couple of really nice days before it turned cold?

   They may have gotten a good flow and bees were hanging out. Then when it
turned cold (probably suddenly and at night) some bees were separated from the
clump and didn't get back into the hives.


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


From yola.foister@zbee.com Mon Mar 15 20:53:22 EST 1999
Article: 16128 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: yola.foister@zbee.com (Yola Foister)
To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Is there anybody, who works with bee wax?
Message-ID: <921357825@zbee.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 18:55:26 GMT
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Distribution: world
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Privet Sergey, ja iz voska jeshcho nichevo ne delaju, no mne eto tozhe ochen
interesno.  y vas pchely est?  Skolko? Kas vashi pchely zimoj zhivut?  u vas
holod takoj sobachij.  Vsevo dobrovo.  yola iz Anglii.I> From: "Sergey Beketov"

 I> Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
 I> Subject: Is there anybody, who works with bee wax?
 I> Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 13:06:23 +0300
 I> Organization: ITL Communications
 I> Lines: 14
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 I> 62.244.4.201 (20 Jan 1999 11:11:53 GMT)
 I> X-Complaints-To: abuse@itl.net.ua
 I> NNTP-Posting-Date: 20 Jan 1999 11:11:53 GMT
 I> X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.0518.4
 I> X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE
 I> V5.00.0518.4 XRef: zbee.com
 I> sci.agriculture.beekeeping:2078
 I> Path:
 I> newsread3.dircon.co.uk!news.dircon.co.uk!peer2.news
 I> .dircon.net!peer1.news.dircon.net!btnet-peer!btnet!
 I> diablo.theplanet.net!news-lond.gip.net!news.gsl.net
 I> !gip.net!newsfeed.gamma.ru!Gamma.RU!carrier.kiev.ua
 I> !ktts!infocom!not-for-mail

 I> Hello there all,

 I> ok, right now I'm reading all your messages to this
 I> group, and, frankly, just dissapointing..:(
 I> Everybody is speaking and discussing only the
 I> problems of bee HONEY, and not wax.
 I> Please, if someone of you has a little deal not
 I> with honey, but with bee WAX, inform me about this,
 I> ok?
 I> Preferable, from Europe.

 I> Regards,
 I> Sergey.

---
 * Origin: Beenet Point (240:244/165)


From snewport@pavilion.co.uk Mon Mar 15 20:53:24 EST 1999
Article: 16129 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: snewport@pavilion.co.uk (Steve Newport)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Anybody know who these people are and where ?
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 21:48:53 GMT
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Fraternity of St Bartholomew of the Craft or Mystery of Free
Meadmakers of Great Britain and Ireland.

Does anybody have a contact address ?


From purcell@atlanta.com Mon Mar 15 20:53:26 EST 1999
Article: 16130 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: purcell@atlanta.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: top covers
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 01:28:08 GMT
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"R & S Adams"  wrote:

>This sounds like a dumb question, but please explain the  the difference
>between a telescoping cover  and a migratory cover.  I'm getting ready to
>build several and would like to know the why and why not of both covers
>Thanks in advance--- R.P.  Adams
>

Telescoping covers are used when the bees are not needing to be moved
regularly. The rim extends outside and down the side of the super,
providing protection from the elements while allowing ventilation.

Migratory covers are usually the same dimension as the super, with no
rim or extension. This allows the hives to be paletized in a compact
area, and allows the hives to be stacked on the pallets as well.

While migratory covers will work ok for the hobbiest or non migratory
beekeeper, telescoping covers are generally considered to be superior.

HTH
--
Michael Purcell
purcell@atlanta.com


From gstyLer@worldnet.att.net Mon Mar 15 20:53:28 EST 1999
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From: "George Styer" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: top covers
Date: 14 Mar 1999 03:36:31 GMT
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You also have the added expense of an inner cover when using the
telescoping cover. For this reason I just made 6 new redwood migratory
covers for splits and replacements. The inner covers made of masonite are
just worthless after a couple years of being exposed to normal hive
moisture. The bee space sags to nil.
-- 
Geo
Honey is sweet, but the bee stings.
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
Get the "L" out to reply via e-mail!

purcell@atlanta.com wrote in article <36eb0e89.2017965@news.eni.net>...
> "R & S Adams"  wrote:
> 
> >This sounds like a dumb question, but please explain the  the difference
> >between a telescoping cover  and a migratory cover.  I'm getting ready
to
> >build several and would like to know the why and why not of both covers
> >Thanks in advance--- R.P.  Adams
> >
> 
> Telescoping covers are used when the bees are not needing to be moved
> regularly. The rim extends outside and down the side of the super,
> providing protection from the elements while allowing ventilation.
> 
> Migratory covers are usually the same dimension as the super, with no
> rim or extension. This allows the hives to be paletized in a compact
> area, and allows the hives to be stacked on the pallets as well.
> 
> While migratory covers will work ok for the hobbiest or non migratory
> beekeeper, telescoping covers are generally considered to be superior.
> 
> HTH
> --
> Michael Purcell
> purcell@atlanta.com
> 


From amschelp@pe.net Mon Mar 15 20:53:28 EST 1999
Article: 16132 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: California Bee Problem Thanks for the Help
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 20:27:16 -0800
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There have been a quite a few good comments in this newsgroup on the 
subject of urban beekeeping. Too bad there are no "data libraries" on 
here, kept by a system operator, like on CompuServe. Maybe you can do it 
through dejanews under "urban beekeeping" or "city beekeeping". These 
messages would encourage you because some of them show how people keep 
bees even on apartment balconies in the cities. If you decide to go for 
it, I would recommend you try a top bar hive. Site for top bar hive info 
furnished on request.

In article <19990313220033.15617.00000388@ng116.aol.com>, 
orangerose@aol.com says...
> >,,have you tried Sacramento
> >Beekeeping Supplies?   They're on "X" and somewhere around 21st streets.  (no
> >yard too small)
> >
> >
> 
> Is this really true?  I follow this newsgroup because I am interested in the
> idea of keeping bees, but I live in the middle of San Francisco, on a 350'
> x350' block with three-storey buildings  making up the perimeter.  If I put a
> hive in the very back of my garden there would be about 80' between it and the
> nearest structures.  (my yard is 25' x 80') Can bees forage in urban areas?  I
> mean, are there enough flowers?  And, how much distance does one need between a
> hive and human residences?  We have lots of raccoons and possums around--do
> they pose a threat to a hive?  What about the neighborhood cats?
> 
> Just wondering,
> 
> 
> 
> Kelly
> 
> 
> 


From orangerose@aol.com Mon Mar 15 20:53:30 EST 1999
Article: 16133 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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>,,have you tried Sacramento
>Beekeeping Supplies?   They're on "X" and somewhere around 21st streets.  (no
>yard too small)
>
>

Is this really true?  I follow this newsgroup because I am interested in the
idea of keeping bees, but I live in the middle of San Francisco, on a 350'
x350' block with three-storey buildings  making up the perimeter.  If I put a
hive in the very back of my garden there would be about 80' between it and the
nearest structures.  (my yard is 25' x 80') Can bees forage in urban areas?  I
mean, are there enough flowers?  And, how much distance does one need between a
hive and human residences?  We have lots of raccoons and possums around--do
they pose a threat to a hive?  What about the neighborhood cats?

Just wondering,



Kelly




From beecrofter@aol.comBee Mon Mar 15 20:53:32 EST 1999
Article: 16134 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Build Hives
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I build a lot of my own stuff too.
A telescope cover is a shallow box used as a lid which has about 1/4 inch of
clearance on all sides between it and the hive body.
I make mine with 1x4 lumber and plywood. I nail plywood on both sides of the
1x4 frame and trim it with a flush cutting router bit. Then I split the box in
two on the table saw and have 2 complete covers.    
A hive body runs 16-1/4 by 20
the wood frame inside dimensions is approximately 16-3/4 x 20-1/2.
E mail me if this is not clear.


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


From swienty@swienty.com Mon Mar 15 20:53:33 EST 1999
Article: 16135 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Swienty A/S" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Wax foundation shipping
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 20:34:37 +0100
Organization: Customer at Tele Danmark Erhverv
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Hej Timothy,

this problem exists specially with molded foundation sheets. Rolled sheets
are much less fragile.

regards

Bjorn
www.swienty.com


Timothy C. Eisele wrote in message <7c3bn9$5rm$1@campus1.mtu.edu>...
>I've seen warnings in several books that, if pure wax foundation
>is shipped in cold weather, it becomes very brittle and a lot of
>the sheets will arrive broken.  My question is, how cold is
>"cold weather"?  Do I only have to worry about this in the dead
>of winter when it's so cold outside that the snow squeaks?  Or
>is it still a problem for as long as the temperature dips below
>freezing at night?
>
>Incidentally, I live in the upper peninsula of Michigan, next
>to Lake Superior, so our temperatures hover around freezing until
>early May most years.  If I have to wait until then to order my
>foundation, maybe I should just go with one of the plastic types.
>
>--
>Tim Eisele
>tceisele@mtu.edu




From swienty@swienty.com Mon Mar 15 20:53:34 EST 1999
Article: 16136 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Swienty A/S" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Mead-breweries
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 20:36:06 +0100
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Try BetterBee in Greenwich, NY, or contact me personally.

www.betterbee.com

regards

Bjorn
www.swienty.com
sales@swienty.com

oC wrote in message ...
>Hi,
>
>Can anyone give information on where I might find a small-scale commercial
>mead-brewery, in the US or in Europe?
>
>best1s
>Ole Chr. Magneshaugen
>Norway
>
>




From swienty@swienty.com Mon Mar 15 20:53:35 EST 1999
Article: 16137 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Swienty A/S" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: For U.S. (& Canadian) consumption only: Buckfast question
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 20:48:35 +0100
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good

bjorn
Flemming Rasmussen wrote in message <7bus5j$5f2$1@news-inn.inet.tele.dk>...
>
>John Caldeira skrev i meddelelsen
<36ddf566.134616456@news.earthlink.net>...
>>"Larry S. Farris"  wrote:
>>>How Buckfast are the Weaver's "Buckfast" nowadays?
>>
>>Good question.  Without continuous genetic improvement, most organisms
>>revert back to their less desirable natural types.  With continued
>>selection, it may be a better bee, but perhaps not exactly "Buckfast".
>>
>>In any case, the Buckfast does not produce as well as a good Italian
>>strain in Texas, in my opinion.
>>
>>-John
>>
>>
>>John Caldeira
>>Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
>>http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/
>>
>Its the same here in Denmark. More and more preferes Italian.
>Flemming. Bee and Nature Dep.
>flemmin@post10.tele.dk
>
>
>




From jcaldeira@earthlink.net Mon Mar 15 20:53:37 EST 1999
Article: 16138 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: jcaldeira@earthlink.net (John Caldeira)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: isolated hives and mites
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 23:24:05 GMT
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CMBH71C@prodigy.com (Shelley Corbin) wrote:
>if a mite free hive lives in a big city where only a handful of folks are 
>silly enough to keep bees does this significantly decrease the chance of 
>being infected with mites as opposed to a large moving collections of 
>colonies in a rural area? or it really doesnt matter?

It doesn't matter.  The chances of your bees getting either acarine or
varroa mites is near 100%.

-John

John Caldeira
Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/



From Catherine@clematis.demon.co.uk Mon Mar 15 20:53:38 EST 1999
Article: 16139 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: catherine carlyon 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: bees and eclipse
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 12:14:58 +0000
Organization: mojo
Distribution: world
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Does anyone have any experience of a total solar eclipse and the effect
upon bees?  Should one take any precautions like keeping bees in or will
they adjust natually?

mojo


From thegriggs@bc.sympatico.ca Mon Mar 15 20:53:40 EST 1999
Article: 16140 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Hi. I live in Chilliwack, B.C.
I had several colonies of bees several years ago and they all succumbed
to mites.
I a interested in buying some nucs. Could you please tell me where I can
go to
purchase some in my area? Thanks.



From beecrofter@aol.comBee Mon Mar 15 20:53:41 EST 1999
Article: 16141 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter)
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My bees drink pretty well from a goldfish pond with water lettuce and water
hyacinth in it. They get good traction on the plants.
Bees favor sunwarmed water.


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


From wier@dolphin.fsl.noaa.gov Tue Mar 16 20:16:51 EST 1999
Article: 16142 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Stuart Wier 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: reuse of old hives; or, staring over
Date: 15 Mar 1999 16:50:28 -0700
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I have three used empty hives from a friend. The bees were killed
by mites in fall 96.

I would like to get one hive going again, just to have bees,
not for honey. I like bees.

Is any special treatment needed for the hive bodies, bottoms, etc?

Where can I buy bees?

How do I handle the mite problem and what time of year?

Are there mite-resistant wild bees? There are bees around for sure.
I would like to catch a wild swarm in that case.

I will be glad to go read up elsewhere if someone can direct me
to the answers. I just want to keep a hive of happy bees.

Stuart Wier

wier@iws.net



From jkimbro@midtown.net Tue Mar 16 20:16:52 EST 1999
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Depending on where you have to put them,,,you might want to consider some
creative channeling.  Meaning, the bees will make their own "flight path". If
this just happens to buzz by your neighbors front door,,,you might consider say,
planting a bush or something close to the entrance to change the flight pattern
to "up" then out.  (if any of that makes sense)

Orangerose wrote:

> > hate cats and secretly wish the bees would drive them
> >away but I think they are here to stay since our neighborhood is
> >cat-enhanced. The biggest problem they cause me is a misplaced step on the
> >way to the hives. Ever notice how people that own cats never have their
> >gardens used as a litter box?
> >--
> >Geo
>
> 
> I happen to be a cat owner, and I promise, if you had your own cat, he would
> make sure that the neighborhood cats found their own "rest rooms".  Mine uses
> the corner of the yard (under a big, prickly bush) for himself, and keeps all
> the others out.  I very rarely see strange cats out there.
> I guess a dog would do the same thing, though!
> :-)
>
> BTW, this is looking promising.  I live 3 blocks from the Panhandle and 6
> blocks from Golden Gate Park!
> Maybe I better pick up a book on beekeeping...
>
> Kelly
> >I used to live near GG Park. If that is within
> >their range (about 1.5 mi.) they will do very well. The Presidio would also
> >be good with all the eucalyptus trees.
>
> Kelly



From CMBH71C@prodigy.com Tue Mar 16 20:16:55 EST 1999
Article: 16144 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: CMBH71C@prodigy.com (Shelley Corbin)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: isolated hives and mites
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getting either acarine or
>varroa mites is near 100%.
>

++++++++++++
woah! what is acarine? thats a new one on me. 



From wier@dolphin.fsl.noaa.gov Tue Mar 16 20:16:57 EST 1999
Article: 16145 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Stuart Wier 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: hive exposure (sun and wind); how many bodies?
Date: 16 Mar 1999 10:36:22 -0700
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Thanks for the replies to my earlier question about reuse
of old hive bodies.

Does exposure really matter?  The more convenient location is exposed
to sun most of the day especially from late morning to sundown,
and exposed to wind.   The less convenient location has
morning sun and shade after 2 PM and protection from strong winds.

Starting a new hive, is there preference for one or two
hive bodies? (I have eight, but I don't want 8 colonies!)

Stuart Wier

Boulder Colorado


From schwaller@Schwaller.demon.co.uk Tue Mar 16 20:16:58 EST 1999
Article: 16146 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Ernie 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: alternative treatments for mites
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 20:03:54 +0000
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In article , mcgarryt
 writes
>Back in the January issue of Bee Culture I came across an add for a
>product called " Herbal Bee Calm" (formerly called "mite solution". The
>product was developed and is used in parts of WA state. Does anyone
>have any experience with this treatment?
>--
>Posted via Talkway - http://www.talkway.com
>Surf Usenet at home, on the road, and by email -- always at Talkway.
>
Verroa can be overcome

Verroa can be overcome, using a tincture made with green almond husks
(not shells) and alcohol.
So take a large screwtop jar and fill it with shredded almond husks to
about half an inch from the top, then fill it with alcohol ( I use
Vodka) to just cover the husks and then screw the top on.
Leave for approximately one month by which time the tincture is ready to
use. Strain the tincture into a clean bottle.
Fix a piece of linen to the full length of the dummy board and paint the
tincture onto it till the cloth is well saturated then place the dummy
board behind the frames with the cloth facing the brood combs.
After a month the dummy board is taken out of the brood box , retreated
and then replaced back in the brood box.
Having used this method for two years my hives appear to be virtually
free of veroa.
I leave treated dummy board in the hives throughout the year because the
tincture is non toxic it therefore cannot affect the honey or the bees. 
P.S. The alcohol is required to extract the active principle from the
husks. Vodka is used because it is odorless and economical.
When I inspect the bees I always remove some of the capped drone brood,
to test for veroa . I am pleased to report that the drone brood is
without blemish.
Take note
The jar must be full of the shredded husks before you add the alcohol.
Too much alcohol will make the tincture useless 
Shredded walnut husks can be used instead the result will be the same
The article is submitted as an item of interest 
E. W. Schwaller

-- 
Ernie


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From: Ernie 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: "Tactic"...pesticide resistance
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 19:56:36 +0000
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In article <7bfvu8$898$1@golux.radix.net>, Adam Finkelstein
 writes
>In article <36D691DA.565B@juno.com>, tomas mozer   wrote:
>>
>>========================================================================
>>Dr. Malcolm (Tom) Sanford, Extension Apiculturist, University of Florida
>>Bldg. 970, P.O. Box 110620, Gainesville, FL 32611-0620
>>Ph. 352/392-1801 ext. 143   Fax 352/392-0190
>>E-mail: mts@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
>>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>Publisher of the APIS newsletter: http://www.ifas.ufl.edu/~mts/apishtm/apis.htm
>>To electronically subscribe, send the following to listserv@lists.ufl.edu:
>>subscribe Apis-L First Name Last Name
>>=======================================================================
>
>Thanks for posting the _Apis_ article. I tried long ago to get Sanford to
>post the issues here, but he basically ignored me. Then I posted _Apis_ for
>awhile, but it's easier to just point to the URL. I appreciate your taking
>the time to post  the relevant article. 
>
>A nugget of net beekeeping history: back in 1992 or so I was attending a
>national honey bee inspector meeting in Beltsville, MD and Sanford was
>there giving a presentation on internet resources for beekeepers. He had
>a real hard time getting his laptop to connect to the net. I heard him
>talking to another "official" beekeeping person about the internet needing
>to be controlled because there were "too many loose cannons" out there.
>
>Funny.
>:-)
>
>Adam 
>

--Verroa can be overcome

Verroa can be overcome, using a tincture made with green almond husks (not
shells) and alcohol.
So take a large screwtop jar and fill it with shredded almond husks to about
half an inch from the top, then fill it with alcohol ( I use Vodka) to just
cover the husks and then screw the top on.
Leave for approximately one month by which time the tincture is ready to use.
Strain the tincture into a clean bottle.
Fix a piece of linen to the full length of the dummy board and paint the
tincture onto it till the cloth is well saturated then place the dummy board
behind the frames with the cloth facing the brood combs.
After a month the dummy board is taken out of the brood box , retreated and then
replaced back in the brood box.
Having used this method for two years my hives appear to be virtually free of
veroa.
I leave treated dummy board in the hives throughout the year because the
tincture is non toxic it therefore cannot affect the honey or the bees. 
P.S. The alcohol is required to extract the active principle from the husks.
Vodka is used because it is odorless and economical.
When I inspect the bees I always remove some of the capped drone brood, to test
for veroa . I am pleased to report that the drone brood is without blemish.
Take note
The jar must be full of the shredded husks before you add the alcohol. Too much
alcohol will make the tincture useless 
Shredded walnut husks can be used instead the result will be the same
The article is submitted as an item of interest 
E. W. Schwaller
 
Ernie


From jcaldeira@earthlink.net Tue Mar 16 20:17:01 EST 1999
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: isolated hives and mites
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CMBH71C@prodigy.com (Shelley Corbin) wrote:
>getting either acarine or
>>varroa mites is near 100%.
>>
>++++++++++++
>woah! what is acarine? thats a new one on me. 

Acarapis woodi, also known as the honey bee tracheal mite in the U.S.

-John

John Caldeira
Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/



From gstyLer@worldnet.att.net Thu Mar 18 06:03:40 EST 1999
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From: "George Styer" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: alternative treatments for mites
Date: 17 Mar 1999 00:20:47 GMT
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Do you receive compensation based on how many times you post this? I would
much rather see some data on the effectiveness (nbr of colonies, treated vs
untreated). You know, some facts to back up the claim.
-- 
Geo
Honey is sweet, but the bee stings.
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
Get the "L" out to reply via e-mail!

Ernie  wrote in article
<33uteBAqkr72EwMS@Schwaller.demon.co.uk>...
> In article , mcgarryt
>  writes
> >Back in the January issue of Bee Culture I came across an add for a
> >product called " Herbal Bee Calm" (formerly called "mite solution". The
> >product was developed and is used in parts of WA state. Does anyone
> >have any experience with this treatment?
> >--
> >Posted via Talkway - http://www.talkway.com
> >Surf Usenet at home, on the road, and by email -- always at Talkway.
> >
> Verroa can be overcome
> 
> Verroa can be overcome, using a tincture made with green almond husks
> (not shells) and alcohol.
> So take a large screwtop jar and fill it with shredded almond husks to
> about half an inch from the top, then fill it with alcohol ( I use
> Vodka) to just cover the husks and then screw the top on.
> Leave for approximately one month by which time the tincture is ready to
> use. Strain the tincture into a clean bottle.
> Fix a piece of linen to the full length of the dummy board and paint the
> tincture onto it till the cloth is well saturated then place the dummy
> board behind the frames with the cloth facing the brood combs.
> After a month the dummy board is taken out of the brood box , retreated
> and then replaced back in the brood box.
> Having used this method for two years my hives appear to be virtually
> free of veroa.
> I leave treated dummy board in the hives throughout the year because the
> tincture is non toxic it therefore cannot affect the honey or the bees. 
> P.S. The alcohol is required to extract the active principle from the
> husks. Vodka is used because it is odorless and economical.
> When I inspect the bees I always remove some of the capped drone brood,
> to test for veroa . I am pleased to report that the drone brood is
> without blemish.
> Take note
> The jar must be full of the shredded husks before you add the alcohol.
> Too much alcohol will make the tincture useless 
> Shredded walnut husks can be used instead the result will be the same
> The article is submitted as an item of interest 
> E. W. Schwaller
> 
> -- 
> Ernie
> 


From s022kds@discover.wright.edu Thu Mar 18 06:03:41 EST 1999
Article: 16150 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: KENDAL SMUCKER 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: California Bee Problem Thanks for the Help
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 18:05:03 -0500
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I started out beekeeping 20 years ago in Dallas.  That's not Sacramento
or
wherever you may be, but it was definitely urban.  The countryside
beekeepers I met said I probably got more honey in the city than they did
in the countryside.  I had bees on three different locations in Dallas and
Irving, and got along fine with the neighbors.  At two locations there
were supposedly 'ornamental' trees that the bees pollinated and that
brought fruit, that had not before, apparently because of lack of
pollination.  

As for the urban beekeeper with lots of tall buildings around, so?  I do
county inspections, and a lot of rural operators like to hide their bees
in the woods.  Bees have to fly up and through the trees to get where
they're going there, also.  Put 'em there, they'll figure out a way to
cope with the terrain.

I wouldn't worry about cats and dogs, but coons and skunks might be a bit
different, especially skunks.  consult a bee book to tell you what usually
works, or bring it up at your local bee club.

But mainly, place your hives where there is a fence row or other brush
that forces the bees to fly upward within 10 feet of leaving the
hive--they'll likely stay up and out of normal human airspace.

Good luck.  Can we hear from you once you have installed your hives and
seen what flight pattern they establish?

Kendal D. Smucker
School of Graduate Studies
Wright State University







From uhogerli@deletetupphysiol1.bp.dal.ca Thu Mar 18 06:03:42 EST 1999
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From: Ulli Hoger 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: hive exposure (sun and wind); how many bodies?
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 14:34:08 -0400
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Stuart Wier wrote:
> 
> Does exposure really matter?  The more convenient location is exposed
> to sun most of the day especially from late morning to sundown,
> and exposed to wind.   The less convenient location has
> morning sun and shade after 2 PM and protection from strong winds.
Convenient for whom?  As a bee I would set up my business in location #2
with sun in the morning, shade in the afternoon and wind protection.
Help's me get up early in the morning and less air conditioning work in
the afternoon.

Cheers

Ulli


From beeman@NOSPAMkingston.net Thu Mar 18 06:03:42 EST 1999
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From: Kent Stienburg 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: what should I do?
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 16:33:52 -0800
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Shelley Corbin wrote:
> 
> thanks for the advice, never dreamed that 2 hives are better than one.
> but i cant afford that.

I know what you mean Shelley.  I had to start with one hive ( a nuc)
This way the hive built up fast and I split it in july. I bought another
queen. You won't get much honey the first year but you'll have two hives
for the winter.  Alot depends on your location.  That is the amount of
nectar and the type of summer you have .  But again it is a risk with
one hive.  Best of luck!
-- 
Kent Stienburg
Remove NOSPAM to reply.


From adamf@vt.edu Thu Mar 18 06:03:43 EST 1999
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From: adamf@golux.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: "Tactic"...pesticide resistance
Date: 16 Mar 1999 20:55:54 -0000
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In article ,
Ernie   wrote:

>P.S. The alcohol is required to extract the active principle from the husks.

Just out of curiosity, what is the active principle?

Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein                   
adamf@vt.edu              
http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf


From megabees@aol.com Thu Mar 18 06:03:43 EST 1999
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From: megabees@aol.com (Megabees)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Nucs for sale
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Nucs for sale with combs included. Four deep combs loaded with bees with new
queens. Michigan or Florida pickup in late April or early May. Treated for
mites. No beetles. Inspected. $40 each
E-mail  for Michigan connection or  in
Florida. Phone (407)349-0033 or (616)882-4456


From schwaller@Schwaller.demon.co.uk Thu Mar 18 06:03:44 EST 1999
Article: 16155 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Ernie 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: alternative treatments for mites
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 20:06:05 +0000
Organization: Household
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In article , mcgarryt
 writes
>Back in the January issue of Bee Culture I came across an add for a
>product called " Herbal Bee Calm" (formerly called "mite solution". The
>product was developed and is used in parts of WA state. Does anyone
>have any experience with this treatment?
>--
>Posted via Talkway - http://www.talkway.com
>Surf Usenet at home, on the road, and by email -- always at Talkway.
>
Verroa can be overcome

Verroa can be overcome, using a tincture made with green almond husks
(not shells) and alcohol.
So take a large screwtop jar and fill it with shredded almond husks to
about half an inch from the top, then fill it with alcohol ( I use
Vodka) to just cover the husks and then screw the top on.
Leave for approximately one month by which time the tincture is ready to
use. Strain the tincture into a clean bottle.
Fix a piece of linen to the full length of the dummy board and paint the
tincture onto it till the cloth is well saturated then place the dummy
board behind the frames with the cloth facing the brood combs.
After a month the dummy board is taken out of the brood box , retreated
and then replaced back in the brood box.
Having used this method for two years my hives appear to be virtually
free of veroa.
I leave treated dummy board in the hives throughout the year because the
tincture is non toxic it therefore cannot affect the honey or the bees. 
P.S. The alcohol is required to extract the active principle from the
husks. Vodka is used because it is odorless and economical.
When I inspect the bees I always remove some of the capped drone brood,
to test for veroa . I am pleased to report that the drone brood is
without blemish.
Take note
The jar must be full of the shredded husks before you add the alcohol.
Too much alcohol will make the tincture useless 
Shredded walnut husks can be used instead the result will be the same
The article is submitted as an item of interest 
E. W. Schwaller
schwaller@schwaller.demon.co.uk
-- 
Ernie


From dag@berfa.demon.co.uk Thu Mar 18 06:03:45 EST 1999
Article: 16156 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: David Gladstone 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: swarms
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 13:32:23 +0000
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In article , michael charters
 writes
>It is early days yet down here in south west England. I lost one of my
>hives in the winter. It is amazing that it was the strongest colony. The
>one that took in the greatest amount of winter feed. 
>
I had a similar experience in Bristol where it is only just a little
cooler than Devon.  One colony was queenless but had plenty of stores
left.  They were down to their last few 100 survivors and dying out
which is all very sad.  I suspect that they failed to supersede her and
the new queen perished during the short cold spell at the end of the
last year.

I dont like collecting swarms which may be due to a lack of space to
accommodate more hives or it may be the disease aspect.  Either way I
try to avoid them and pass them on the other beekeepers in the area.
Most swarms that I have dealt with are fairly good tempered as you might
expect after they have gorged themselves before going on their picnic.

>I would be very interested to hear from all you people in the US if the
>apocryphal stories I hear about swarm recovery are true.
>
>Our local society has a swarm officer. He gets plenty of calls from late
>May to July. He simply phones one of the members and we go out and
>collect the swarm. A simple enough job that I have done - unless, as has
>happened, the swarm is stuck inside a seven hundred year old chimney or
>on top of some power lines.
>
>Is it true that swarm recovery can actually cost you? That you might
>even have to pay a pest prevention fee?

Most registered beekeepers have general liability insurance.

-- 
David Gladstone


From tomasmozer@juno.com Thu Mar 18 06:03:45 EST 1999
Article: 16157 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: tomas mozer 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: California Bee Problem...
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 08:59:01 -0800
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for more on part of the problem, and perhaps part of the solution...check
out the following:
http://www.expressnews.com:80/pantheon/news-bus/business/1601dgtf.shtml
http://www.wcco.com:80/news/stories/news-990316-092915.html




From amschelp@pe.net Thu Mar 18 06:03:46 EST 1999
Article: 16158 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: California Bee Problem Thanks for the Help
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 19:25:05 -0800
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In article <18302707CS86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>, 
SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu says...
> In article 
> amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel) writes:
>  
> >                         ... Too bad there are no "data libraries" on
> >here, kept by a system operator, like on CompuServe.
> Sounds like a lot of work - are you volunteering?

No. :0). I don't know who those sysops are. Message traffic was lighter 
in those days, about 1983. I was in the TRS-80 Special Interest Group 
(sig).
>  
> >                                            ... If you decide to go for
> >it, I would recommend you try a top bar hive. Site for top bar hive info
> >furnished on request.
> Tell me Peter, do any circumstances exist for which you would NOT recommend
> a top bar hive?

If I made my living keeping bees, I would probably use Langstroths. I 
think you will note that I only recommend top bar hives to people who 
have no intention of being commercial beekeepers. Having tried both top 
bar hives and Langstroths, I think the top bar hive is better for non-
commercial users. 

>  
> Just wonderin'
> Aaron
> 
No problem, dude. I have the greatest respect for commercial beekeepers 
like yourself. Speaking of which, have you seen the Old Drone lately? 
Some years ago he had a fine bee BBS that I would log in on when I had my 
first Langstroths and now he has a great web page, but he has been 
missing from this group for some time.


From amschelp@pe.net Thu Mar 18 06:03:47 EST 1999
Article: 16159 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: reuse of old hives; or, staring over
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 19:29:39 -0800
Organization: Various
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Aaron, I think, therefore I bee sure that this is a guy who needs to be 
informed about top bar hives. Don't you agree?

http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm




In article , 
wier@dolphin.fsl.noaa.gov says...
> 
> I have three used empty hives from a friend. The bees were killed
> by mites in fall 96.
> 
> I would like to get one hive going again, just to have bees,
> not for honey. I like bees.
> 
> Is any special treatment needed for the hive bodies, bottoms, etc?
> 
> Where can I buy bees?
> 
> How do I handle the mite problem and what time of year?
> 
> Are there mite-resistant wild bees? There are bees around for sure.
> I would like to catch a wild swarm in that case.
> 
> I will be glad to go read up elsewhere if someone can direct me
> to the answers. I just want to keep a hive of happy bees.
> 
> Stuart Wier
> 
> wier@iws.net
> 
> 


From yola.foister@zbee.com Thu Mar 18 06:03:47 EST 1999
Article: 16160 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: yola.foister@zbee.com (Yola Foister)
To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: LONG HIVES
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Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 16:32:02 GMT
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Hi, I am going to have some details (drawing and dimensions) in about two or
three weeks.  A local beekeeper from Kent promised to give it to me, because I
am planning to build one myself.  Yesterday I attended a lecture on beehives
and learned something about long hives as well.  Where are you based and what
beehives have you got at the moment?
I was advised to make it the width and depth of a brood chamber, with top bee
space (the English National) but three times longer, with entrance in the
middle, rather than at the end.  (In our climate the hive will not work with
entrance at the end.)  In this way you can put 3 crown boards on top of the
frames. You can use brood size frames.  The size of the actual hive can be
determined by vertical dummy boards.

Have you ever used this type of a hive?  If so, what was your experience?

Regards

Yola Foister, Kent UK
B> From: "Berny" 
 B> References: <921451069@zbee.com>
 B> <36EC8819.BB1D43F9@twcny.rr.com> Subject: Re: LONG
 B> HIVES
 B> Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 19:38:00 -0500
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 B> 14!upnetnews04!upnetnews02

 B> Does anyone have drawings with dimension for making
 B> one of these?

---
 * Origin: Beenet Point (240:244/165)


From Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com Thu Mar 18 06:03:48 EST 1999
Article: 16161 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Billy Y. Smart II" 
Subject: Re: Anybody want an IDEA for killing varroa?
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islapro wrote:

> And finally a Personal Computer (from 386 up) could control hundreds of
> this devices establishing the temperature of the environment, moisture,
> and container environment and triggering the frying process.

 So what are you doing with the mites once you attract them? You refer to a
"frying" process. Are you doing this with some sort of heat source? Or, are you
electrifying the screen and making a high-tech bug zapper? How are you powering
this? A solar panel?

--
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */



--------------BCF2952E585D103954F0245E
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islapro wrote:

And finally a Personal Computer (from 386 up) could
control hundreds of

this devices establishing the temperature of the environment, moisture,

and container environment and triggering the frying process.

 So what are you doing with the mites once you attract them? You refer
to a "frying" process. Are you doing this with some sort of heat source?
Or, are you electrifying the screen and making a high-tech bug zapper?
How are you powering this? A solar panel?

-- 
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */    
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */

 

--------------BCF2952E585D103954F0245E--



From hutchiso@ccp.com Thu Mar 18 06:03:49 EST 1999
Article: 16162 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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sounds like you are on the right track.  If they look and sound strong one
to one sugar is ok, if the hive is light and weather remains cold, switch to
two sugar to one water.  MU extension has some great information on bees.
http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/
hope this helps.

I am in ST Joseph so am 10 days or so behind you..




From snewport@pavilion.co.uk Thu Mar 18 06:03:49 EST 1999
Article: 16163 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: snewport@pavilion.co.uk (Steve Newport)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: THE LAW AND ...
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I belong to the Worthing Bee Keepers Assoc and we recently had a talk
>from  Trading Standards on the subject. Honey does not come under the
same regulations as other foods, it has its own legislation.

I suggest that you talk to your local TS office and they will be able
to help. You will find they are very open and understanding for the
like of the hobby bee keeper.

One intersting thing I learned from the talk was that it is against
the law to sell a 500g jar of honey in the UK. You can sell 454 grams.
It comes down to honey being sold in recognised weight mutiples based
on the old imperial system. 1Lb jars etc.

Hope that helps.


From honey.road@sympatico.ca Thu Mar 18 06:03:50 EST 1999
Article: 16164 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Hi Shelley.  I'm in Sault Ste Marie, Ontario.  I gues the one question is
wether you wnat honey this year or not.  If you buy the complet hive, you can
get honey, maks a nuc/split early enough and have two strong hives going into
the fall.  I myself have Italians, and theyare just as gentle to work with as
Buckfast.  But then again, any hive can be nasty, no matter what breed they
are.  kinda like buying a car, you can get a lemon, no matter what you buy.

Allen B

Shelley Corbin wrote:

> alright, after reading some books and going to the bee conference here in
> mich. friday, i must make a decision what i am going to do this week what
> kind of bees i will buy, and where from. at the conference here in
> michigan, which was a lot of fun. i talked to a beekeeper who lives 50
> miles away who was willing to sell me a 2 story hive of italian bees. (i
> live in big city with a big yard.) this would include the bees, 2 deep
> bodies, with the frames etc already installed. the bodies themselves are
> not new. i had to press him on that. he promised the unmarked and
> unclipped queen would be new. couldnt certify they wouldnt have mites
> which apparently are a very serious problem, nearly everyone we asked had
> problems with mites. and i was told by one keeper of 120 colonies just
> assume they have them and treat them for it. all i would have to get is a
> smoker, veil, medicines, etc. he told me i wouldnt have to feed them
> really because if i get a hive in may there should be enough flowers.
>
> last month i ordered a package of buckfast bees that i am due to pay by
> april 1st all the way from texas. i would have to buy the equipment, but
> it would be new. they are supposed to be trachel resistant.  i could buy
> the beginners kit, and make the second body and supers, i think...
>
> they say its best to buy locally, however i am worried about swarming if
> i buy a hive with two stories already. i asked the beekeeper and the
> swarming season is late may and june. i dont know if i want to face
> something like that
> just starting out. with a package i am less like to do so.
>
> i am also waiting to hear from another local supplier who may have nucs
> availiable, i thought they would be less likely to swarm this year since
> they will have room to grow when i put them in a full two body hive. also
> looking into bees called midnights.
>
> what should i do? are buckfast bees gentler than italians? should i take
> a chance on the getting the already complete hive availiable locally ?
> HELP! lol..
> i cant make up my mind.....
>
> cc and email if possible. many thanks for any responses.
> hi Ellen A. wish i had -had more time to chat! who won the hive, saturday?



From thegriggs@bc.sympatico.ca Thu Mar 18 06:03:51 EST 1999
Article: 16165 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Jim Grigg 
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Hi. I live in Chilliwack B.C. and I would like to purchase some nucs.
Could you please direct me towards someone that I may purchase some.
Thanks.



From shuston@riverace.com Thu Mar 18 06:03:52 EST 1999
Article: 16166 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Steve Huston 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Not dead!!!!
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 20:12:55 -0500
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Daniel Kiehnle wrote:
> 
> I tapped on the outside of my Buckfast hive yesterday, and was
> surprised....they're not dead!

Yea!

> My other bees, the Italians, did
> starve. Even though they had honey in many frames around them, they
> still starved. I don't understand it, but I've seen it happen before.

Disclaimer... I'm entering my first season as a beekeeper.
I was reading about wintering this morning.  If the number of bees is
not large enough to make a big cluster, and it suddenly gets "too cold",
the bees could be immobilized and starve, even if there's food one inch
away.  The moral was, the more bees in the colony, the better the chance
that they'll make it.

> The cluster of Buckfast didn't look large, so, does anyone have ideas on
> how to keep these critters alive until it quits being so damp here in
> the Seattle area?

Sorry... no ideas from me.

-Steve

-- 
Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
Specializing in TCP/IP, CORBA, ACE        (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
Expertise to help your projects succeed   We support ACE!


From hothouserose@my-dejanews.com Thu Mar 18 06:03:52 EST 1999
Article: 16167 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: hothouserose@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Bee less in California
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 21:10:44 GMT
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I am not a bee keeper, but I have a vegetable garden and no bees. A past
neighbor destroyed a local hive in a field and I have had a bugger of a time
trying to attract more. Is there is a way I can attract them?

Also has there been a run on the bees? It seems like every hive spotted by
human kind is destroyed. Is this because of the killer bee panic, or is this
buisness as usuall?

Hothouse Rose

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


From beegrl@webtv.net Thu Mar 18 06:03:53 EST 1999
Article: 16168 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: beegrl@webtv.net (Cherish Tietsworth)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Grease Patty
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 15:47:37 -0500 (EST)
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I am responding to my own posting about the grease patty, I apoligize
for writing "Varroa mites", I meant to write Tracheal mites.  So many
mites it's hard to keep up.  I am sorry for any misinformation.  






From yola.foister@zbee.com Thu Mar 18 06:03:54 EST 1999
Article: 16169 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: yola.foister@zbee.com (Yola Foister)
To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Build Hives
Message-ID: <921014839@zbee.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 19:46:42 GMT
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Distribution: world
Organization: ZbeeNet computer networking for beekeepers
CHRS: IBMPC 2
CODEPAGE: 437
MSGID: 240:244/165 5bd16235
REPLY: 240:44/0 1957f5c8
PID: FDAPX/w 1.13 UnReg(90)
  BC> I just finished building from scratch 17 medium
 BC> supers, 4 hive bodies, 7 telescoping covers, 7
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Hello William

I am interested in making my own hives and will start making them when I have
spare time.  Please tell me what a 'telescoping cover' is?

Many thanks.

Yola

BC> inner covers, and 9 bottom boards. The lumber cost
 BC> about 125.00 US. I spent 18 hours doing all the
 BC> work. For a hobby beekeeper that likes to work
 BC> with wood, this looks like you could save some
 BC> money. You also have to consider the shipping cost
 BC> when you buy from the bee supply co.

 BC> William

---
 * Origin: Beenet Point (240:244/165)


From allend@internode.net Thu Mar 18 06:03:55 EST 1999
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From: Allen Dick 
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Subject: Re: what should I do?
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 04:27:08 GMT
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> > thanks for the advice, never dreamed that 2 hives are better than one.
> > but i cant afford that.

Well, it does not have to cost.

I started with nothing, literally but a swarm that I was told I could have,
hanging on a tree.  I begged and borrowed some boxes and a floor and a lid
>from  a local hobby beekeeper and with the advice of several neighbours,
managed to get it into a five gallon pail, then a into box and onto a floor
at home. Frankly I was pretty scared of bees at the time.

Shortly after, there was another swarm and I borrowed another box.  It was
late, so they never needed more boxes, and with the little I knew, and the
harsh winters here, they died before spring.

But I was hooked and from there built up to 3,000 hives, and I don't lose many
anymore.  Most years.

With top bar hives being a possibility we did not know about then, you could
likely start for just about free.  Visit Jim's top bar page that everyone
talks about at http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm  I bet you could afford
ten hives.

Here's a rave: http://www.dejanews.com/[ST_rn=ps]/getdoc.xp?AN=421311254

Allen

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


From adamf@vt.edu Sat Mar 20 05:36:57 EST 1999
Article: 16171 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@golux.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: The Very Best Way to Read the Archives
Date: 18 Mar 1999 06:37:11 -0000
Organization: Self-Organized.      Dig that.
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In article <7cpvos$pq9$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com>,
Allen Dick   wrote:
>I use DejaNews to read sci.agriculture.beekeeping for several simple reasons:
>
>1.  The articles are right up-to-date.  Other newsservers seem to have a great
>deal of 'net lag.
>
>2.  If I want to research any topic, I can just click on 'search' at the top
>of the page and all the articles ever posted on the topics I select are
>mmediately available in a clickable list.  I can even choose threads from the
>archives.
>
>3. There is a power search that winnows out the chaff and leaves the exact
>item I want.
>
>4. It's free.


Cool! For someone without a good newsfeed from their ISP, this sounds like
the best way. However, if you have a good ISP that recognizes the value of
a good Usenet feed, then using a good newsreader can do all all of Allen's
above, and also allow you to be freedom to browse the web.

If you do UNIX or LINUX or any other *X, the X Windowed newsreaders are
very nice, of course free and extremely powerful. I use TRN in a LINUX
environment and I'm always amazed at how much this beautiful free program
does--the articles that are archived at metalab are done so using TRN.

Adam 
-- 
Adam Finkelstein                   
adamf@vt.edu              
http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf


From hk1beeman@aol.com Sat Mar 20 05:36:58 EST 1999
Article: 16172 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: swarm
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Well yall its started 
thar i was in the bee patch yesterday and hear she come, rite up outa the very
next hive i was a gonna take the apistan off 'n. Dang nice en too bout the size
of a foot tub. Well i took ta singin them ladies rite down, cause i shore wont
gonna loose em after all that sugar they been a eatin jus ta stay alive till
spring. Thar they went straight up toward the tallest tree in the yard, i
dropped my tone a little, and pulled on ol flash's ears a bit so's he'd howl
along with me an them gals jus turned rite back round and headed low. Well i
want ya ta know it was the purtiest site ya ever saw, me an that bassett hound
a singing an them bees jus a fillin up a little pine bout 5 foot tall, man they
bent her rite on over, looked like a pine in a ice storm shore as the world.
Well i grabbed me a box and the only 3 frames that i had foundation in ,shook
em in thar an they went ta fanning, Mama was home !!
Ol flash wanted ta know what was next so's i said i figures that since we was
gonna split em anyways why not jus do it. So whils't he howled and run ( he
tried eatin a bee again ) i just busted that hive open and stole half and half.
Lemmie tell ya them was the happiest little bees ya ever saw, specially after i
put in some foundation ta fill out the spaces.

Wa'll i reckon thats the latest from the bee patch ya'll, just figurred i'd let
ya'll know what we'd been up ta lately, Ma's bout over her herna sergury,
peanut dun had them kittens( flash thinks theys his i bleve, He never wus too
brite bout some thangs )and the psycho tharpist says that i might even be able
to git offen all this medicine after they drills another couple a holes in my
head.

Ya'll Come Ya Hear !!!


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.





From mister-t@zzclinic.net Sat Mar 20 05:36:58 EST 1999
Article: 16173 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 07:53:09 -0500
From: Bill Truesdell 
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16173

Daniel,
Many years ago I had a strong hive die of starvation here in
Maine because of a sudden and prolonged cold snap. The bees
stayed with the brood and starved with loads of honey in the
hive.
I now feed candy in March so they have a source of food close to
them. Make the candy from one five pound bag of sugar and one
pint of water. Heat it to 242 F. Pour into a large greased cookie
sheet- with a rim. It will make a flat sheet of milkey white
candy  about 1/2 inch thick. Break the candy into three pieces -
for three hives- and put the piece on the top bars over the
cluster, but not in the way of the inner cover hole. Put the
inner cover on so the candy fits under it. 
Since the bees are moving up, they will end up against the candy
have all they need to keep alive.
I have not lost a hive to starvation since.
Bill T
Bath, ME

Steve Huston wrote:
> 
> Daniel Kiehnle wrote:
> >
> > I tapped on the outside of my Buckfast hive yesterday, and was
> > surprised....they're not dead!
> 
> Yea!
> 
> > My other bees, the Italians, did
> > starve. Even though they had honey in many frames around them, they
> > still starved. I don't understand it, but I've seen it happen before.
> 
> Disclaimer... I'm entering my first season as a beekeeper.
> I was reading about wintering this morning.  If the number of bees is
> not large enough to make a big cluster, and it suddenly gets "too cold",
> the bees could be immobilized and starve, even if there's food one inch
> away.  The moral was, the more bees in the colony, the better the chance
> that they'll make it.
> 
> > The cluster of Buckfast didn't look large, so, does anyone have ideas on
> > how to keep these critters alive until it quits being so damp here in
> > the Seattle area?
> 
> Sorry... no ideas from me.
> 
> -Steve
> 
> --
> Steve Huston                              Riverace Corporation
> Email: shuston@riverace.com               http://www.riverace.com
> Specializing in TCP/IP, CORBA, ACE        (508) 541-9183, FAX 541-9185
> Expertise to help your projects succeed   We support ACE!

-- 
If there is a zz before clinic.net, remove it to reply directly.


From rpned@starwon.com.au Sat Mar 20 05:36:59 EST 1999
Article: 16174 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: "rpned" 
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16174


Try some drip tape. Bees on my property constantly filch water from some
un-buried drip tape on my place.

Regards




From jimowen@swbell.net Sat Mar 20 05:37:00 EST 1999
Article: 16175 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Jim Owen 
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I cut up pieces of foam or (clean) sponges.  The liquid is absorbed into
the foam/sponge and the bees can suck it up from anywhere they're
standing.  (Cut the pieces narrower than the feeder, so they float and
don't get hung up on the sides and stick. Otherwise, the bees will crawl
around the foam and fall in, as the level drops.)

Originally, I used some of the foam packing sheets that some computer
equipment came packed with.

Later,
Jim

MDRbees wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have an idea or experience with an effective, cheap,simple, and
> easy float for division board feeders. I already have screened inserts but
> still loose more to drowing than I like. Thanks..........Mike


From pollinator@aol.com Sat Mar 20 05:37:01 EST 1999
Article: 16176 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Pollen on March 18th in Boston area?
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16176

From: "Richard L. Simon" 

>Some of the pollen looked
>bright orange like crocus pollen, although my crocuses are just pushing
>out of the ground and won't bloom for some time.  The other pollen is
>light tan or buff.  Anyone in the area have any idea where the pollen is
>coming from?

    Early blooming mints like henbit or hysop have orange pollen. The other may
be willow. Maple is very light green, almost white.


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


From mister-t@zzclinic.net Sat Mar 20 05:37:02 EST 1999
Article: 16177 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Message-ID: <36F17D31.AE7520C6@zzclinic.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 17:24:49 -0500
From: Bill Truesdell 
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16177

Could be pussywillow. We ahve some blooming evn up here in Maine.
Yesterday the bees were flying well away from their hives.

Bill T
bath, ME

"Richard L. Simon" wrote:
> 
> While enjoying the 60+ degree weather in the Boston area today I
> observed that the bees in the hive behind my house (Milton, MA) are
> bringing in a considerable amount of pollen.  Some of the pollen looked
> bright orange like crocus pollen, although my crocuses are just pushing
> out of the ground and won't bloom for some time.  The other pollen is
> light tan or buff.  Anyone in the area have any idea where the pollen is
> coming from?
> 
> Thanks,
> RLS

-- 
If there is a zz before clinic.net, remove it to reply directly.


From lili_krezel@stortek.com Sat Mar 20 05:37:02 EST 1999
Article: 16178 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Lili Krezel 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Not dead!!!!
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 17:39:45 -0500
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Bill,

Can you explain why putting candy at the top of the hive prevents
starvation when a super of honey at the top of the hive would not?
I thought that since the bees are moving up, they would end up 
eating in the top honey super? Or are you only talking about 
times when you harvest too ambitiously and the bees turn out
to need more honey than you leave them in the fall?

In the lower Great Lakes we had a sudden thaw in late January. I
found water over the floor of my hive, moved the whole works to dry
ground, then decided everything was still too damp. So I moved the
deep frames to a new dry super and changed the bottom board also.
The bees seemed to be in the upper super then, so I also put a full 
super of honey (removed last fall and not extracted yet) back on the 
hive, as it seems that honey is the superior bee food for winter
feeding. Of course the full honey super went on top. And in January I 
did not want to encourage laying by trying to feed syrup. 

Anyway, we have had several  *very* cold spells since. In this
situation, what is the advantage of feeding candy over honey? It 
sounds that if you have no honey give them, the candy is a better 
winter choice than syrup; I'm just asking about candy vs. honey.

Lili


From rstewart@globalnet.co.uk Sat Mar 20 05:37:03 EST 1999
Article: 16179 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "R Stewart" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Beginner
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 12:03:22 -0000
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Can anyone suggest what the best way to get started is?
I live North East Scotland, where can I find out about suppliers,
books web sites etc.

Any help very welcome..

Rex




From  Sat Mar 20 05:37:04 EST 1999
Article: 16180 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: <>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: SIGN UP NOW & EARN MONEY. NO COST REQUIRED !
Date: 19 Mar 1999 14:35:28 GMT
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This is an item which i feel will take off in the near future. It cost
nothing to sign up and you might make a few dollars on it. take a look at it
and if you sign up, please use the ID# 69899 as the referal number. Forward
to all your friends. Thanks and have a great day.
Patson http://www.monsterbook.com/





From abchome@webzone.net Sat Mar 20 05:37:05 EST 1999
Article: 16181 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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--------------D3A4C31A2441BA34254117ED
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I think I can answer 2 questions with this :   4 of my hives are in my back
yard.
I have a water garden in my front yard, It is rather small but attractive,
with a couple of goldfish and a pump and about 3 or 4 plants.  The bees like
it better than any other water source in the neighborhood.
I have learned over the years that by feeding the bees in the early spring
before the nectar flow starts that the bees will start out building up their
brood, building up their new honeycomb and get into the pattern of bringing
in pollen and nectar.  Be sure to put your supers on earlier than normal
when you spring feed.  I usually put the apistan strips in before I start
feeding the bees so that I can take it off ASAP and get the supers on.
IMPORTANT: The syrup they eat in the spring is usually all eaten up by the
fast buildup of brood and in making honeycomb so do not stop feeding until
the nectar flow is going strong and they stop taking the syrup.

Hope this helps.
Donald Franson
P.S. I use boardman feeders
______________________
Shelley Corbin wrote:

> okay, just to make it clear in my head. you can feed bees with a wet
> sponge or a bowl of water with stems and branches in it so the bees wont
> drown? how about a small artificial bog garden?

--------------D3A4C31A2441BA34254117ED
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
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I think I can answer 2 questions with this :   4 of my hives
are in my back yard.

I have a water garden in my front yard, It is rather small but attractive,
with a couple of goldfish and a pump and about 3 or 4 plants.  The
bees like it better than any other water source in the neighborhood.

I have learned over the years that by feeding the bees in the early
spring before the nectar flow starts that the bees will start out building
up their brood, building up their new honeycomb and get into the pattern
of bringing in pollen and nectar.  Be sure to put your supers on earlier
than normal when you spring feed.  I usually put the apistan strips
in before I start feeding the bees so that I can take it off ASAP and get
the supers on.  IMPORTANT: The syrup they eat in the spring is usually
all eaten up by the fast buildup of brood and in making honeycomb so do
not stop feeding until the nectar flow is going strong and they
stop taking the syrup.

Hope this helps.

Donald Franson

P.S. I use boardman feeders

______________________

Shelley Corbin wrote:

okay, just to make it clear in my head. you can feed
bees with a wet

sponge or a bowl of water with stems and branches in it so the bees
wont

drown? how about a small artificial bog garden?



--------------D3A4C31A2441BA34254117ED--



From bill.greenrose@valley.net Sat Mar 20 05:37:05 EST 1999
Article: 16182 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Bill Greenrose 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: The Very Best Way to Read the Archives
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 22:20:37 -0500
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Allen Dick wrote:

> I use DejaNews to read sci.agriculture.beekeeping for several simple reasons:
>
> 1.  The articles are right up-to-date.  Other newsservers seem to have a great
> deal of 'net lag.
>
> 2.  If I want to research any topic, I can just click on 'search' at the top
> of the page and all the articles ever posted on the topics I select are
> mmediately available in a clickable list.  I can even choose threads from the
> archives.
>
> 3. There is a power search that winnows out the chaff and leaves the exact
> item I want.
>
> 4. It's free.
>
> Mind you, I have to stay connected to the web to use it and can't easily
> download for reading offline, but then everything has a downside.
>
> Where is DejaNews?  Point your browser to: http://www.dejanews.com/
> and set yourself up to enjoy your favourite newsgroup.
>
> Allen
> http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee
> Lotsa pictures and stuff.
>
> -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
> http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own

greetings,

deja news' power search is my favorite newsgroup search engine, too.  but, i have
found that it does have a few quirks of which a user should be aware.  probably
the most important is that, for some reason, it does NOT capture all messages
posted on a given topic, even if you use the correct search words.  i don't know
why, but it does.  here at home, i connect via my isp directly to the news feed,
but at work, we don't download newsgroups [to save disk space on the server], so i
have to use deja news, both for searching and for posting.  on occasion it has not
found postings that i KNOW are in a particular news group [my own, for example, or
prior messages in a thread of the same title, which i CAN read from home].  this
can happen, even if the message was posted using deja news.  go figure.  like i
said, i really like it, but i always assume that i'm not getting all postings on a
given topic, whenever i use it.

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




From beecrofter@aol.comBee Sat Mar 20 05:37:06 EST 1999
Article: 16183 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter)
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Re  Foam
Be very cautious some foams have fire retardants, sizings, or similar-which I
learned about the hard way when experimenting with foam for aquarium filters. 
Dead fish.

Styro peanuts look interesting.


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


From lauramleek@aol.com Sat Mar 20 05:37:07 EST 1999
Article: 16184 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Another option to having bees in your garden may be to have a mason bee nest.
MUCH less work and you will get plenty of pollination without the expense of
setting up a honeybee hive.

Laura


From abchome@webzone.net Sat Mar 20 05:37:08 EST 1999
Article: 16185 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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The local hives are still the better deal,  and ask the man you are buying
it from if he has a couple of empty brood chambers he can sell you cheap?
Then buy some apistan and menthol and treat the hives,  If you have read
much you should know how,  if not just ask and you will get a few dozen
answers.
If he does not have empty brood chambers just ask and we can tell you how
to avoid swarms. or how to sell some splits or nuks to pay for your hive.
Donald  Franson
(15 hives and growing)


Shelley Corbin wrote:

> thanks for the advice, never dreamed that 2 hives are better than one.
> but i cant afford that.



From abchome@webzone.net Sat Mar 20 05:37:08 EST 1999
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From: Donald Franson 
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When using used equipment, there will be NO mites,,,,,NO BEES NO
MITES...
Although you should treat any new bees as though they have mites and
foulbrood.
Donald

Stuart Wier wrote:

> I have three used empty hives from a friend. The bees were killed
> by mites in fall 96.
>
> I would like to get one hive going again, just to have bees,
> not for honey. I like bees.
>
> Is any special treatment needed for the hive bodies, bottoms, etc?
>
> Where can I buy bees?
>
> How do I handle the mite problem and what time of year?
>
> Are there mite-resistant wild bees? There are bees around for sure.
> I would like to catch a wild swarm in that case.
>
> I will be glad to go read up elsewhere if someone can direct me
> to the answers. I just want to keep a hive of happy bees.
>
> Stuart Wier
>
> wier@iws.net



From phempel@ibm.net Sat Mar 20 05:37:09 EST 1999
Article: 16187 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: phempel@ibm.net (Philip Hempel)
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.beekeeping,alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Excellant Pollination and or Starter Colonies!
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 06:58:52 -0500
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Excellent Pollination and or Starter Colonies!

Orders now accepted for Nine frame colonies complete with 1998-1999 queen 
and equipment. With fair to good equipment with or without Top cover, 
inner cover and bottom boards. Complete instructions for beginning 
beekeepers! 

Email (beeyard@blossomland.com) or call for details 800.637.5262. 


Blossomland Supply
www.blossomland.com


From itl191@online.kharkov.ua Sat Mar 20 05:37:09 EST 1999
Article: 16188 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Sergey Beketov" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Bee equipment
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 17:49:18 +0300
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Hello, I'm from Ukraine and would like to offer such bee's stuff:

I can collect about 20t of bee wax each month. I work with Germany for about
3 years and it weren't any complaints about its condition. The price of bee
wax is $3,5 according to the conditions of DDU.

I can also provide the beekeeping equipment, for example, suits, smokers,
masks, etc.

I would like to work only with the european countries, so if you were
interested in my propositions, please, let me know.

Regards,
Sergey.

itl191@online.kharkov.ua




From jaf@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk Sat Mar 20 05:37:10 EST 1999
Article: 16189 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: jaf@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk (JAF)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee equipment
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 20:03:11 GMT
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On Fri, 19 Mar 1999 17:49:18 +0300, "Sergey Beketov"
 wrote:

>Hello, I'm from Ukraine and would like to offer such bee's stuff:
>
Do you have a web site we can look at?
-- 
jaf@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk
www.jaf.nildram.co.uk



From tdobbs@aug.edu Sat Mar 20 05:37:11 EST 1999
Article: 16190 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Timothy Dobbs 
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Subject: Spring Mgmt.
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 14:02:29 -0500
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Yesterday  (3-17-99) I removed apistan and menthol from my two hives and
made an inspection.Is it normal to have numerous drone cells now and if
not what can I do to remedy the situation? Bees seem to be very strong
and healthy,didnt locate Queen but she is there as evidenced by lots of
capped brood, larvae and eggs. Also have lots of drones already active
Any input is appreciated.
I am in Augusta Ga.
Tim Dobbs



From griffes@my-dejanews.com Sat Mar 20 05:37:12 EST 1999
Article: 16191 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: griffes@my-dejanews.com
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Subject: Re: Spring Mgmt.
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 01:13:05 GMT
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In article <36F29F44.78C52102@aug.edu>,
  tdobbs@aug.edu wrote:
> Yesterday  (3-17-99) I removed apistan and menthol from my two hives and
> made an inspection.Is it normal to have numerous drone cells now and if
> not what can I do to remedy the situation? Bees seem to be very strong
> and healthy,didnt locate Queen but she is there as evidenced by lots of
> capped brood, larvae and eggs. Also have lots of drones already active
> Any input is appreciated.
> I am in Augusta Ga.
> Tim Dobbs

Tim,

Strong bees, capped brood, larvae, eggs - all good things.  Drones a-plenty
means good nutrition present and this time of year in your locale just why
would they need drones a-plenty?  Perhaps to mate swarm queens?  Watch for
queen cells.  Did you see "play cups" already?

The only time "many drones" is a real problem is when you find drone brood in
worker cells (the workers remodel the cells slightly) - then you have a drone
laying queen.  But if you have normal brood and drones only in actual drone
cells then you have good strong bees that are just becoming prepared to
reproduce - you see ya gotta have drones to mate with them queens.

Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
Onsted, MI
USA
http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
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From mcgarryt@westelcom.com Sat Mar 20 05:37:13 EST 1999
Article: 16192 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "mcgarryt" 
Subject: alternative treatments for mites
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I must agree with the reply from George Styer regarding treatments for
mites. I believe there probably are various alternatives to menthol and 
Apistan (and now Mitecheck). If anyone is going to risk their bees with
something however, it helps to have some type of empiracal evidence to
make that decision with. My original inquiry was in regard to a product
called Herbal Bee Calmer currently advertised in Bee Culture. In
reading the add it sounds promising. If this product is so good, where
are all the claims from beekeepers who have had success with it?
Likewise with essential oils. The mites are not just going to go away
and current approved chemical controls are not going to be nearly as
effective if everyone does something different.   
--
Posted via Talkway - http://www.talkway.com
Surf Usenet at home, on the road, and by email -- always at Talkway.



From mcgarryt@westelcom.com Sat Mar 20 05:37:13 EST 1999
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I must agree with the reply from George Styer regarding treatments for
mites. I believe there probably are various alternatives to menthol and 
Apistan (and now Mitecheck). If anyone is going to risk their bees with
something however, it helps to have some type of empiracal evidence to
make that decision with. My original inquiry was in regard to a product
called Herbal Bee Calmer currently advertised in Bee Culture. In
reading the add it sounds promising. If this product is so good, where
are all the claims from beekeepers who have had success with it?
Likewise with essential oils. The mites are not just going to go away
and current approved chemical controls are not going to be nearly as
effective if everyone does something different.   
--
Posted via Talkway - http://www.talkway.com
Surf Usenet at home, on the road, and by email -- always at Talkway.



From bill.greenrose@valley.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:17 EST 1999
Article: 16194 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Kent Stienburg wrote:

> Shelley Corbin wrote:
> >
> > thanks for the advice, never dreamed that 2 hives are better than one.
> > but i cant afford that.
>
> I know what you mean Shelley.  I had to start with one hive ( a nuc)
> This way the hive built up fast and I split it in july. I bought another
> queen. You won't get much honey the first year but you'll have two hives
> for the winter.  Alot depends on your location.  That is the amount of
> nectar and the type of summer you have .  But again it is a risk with
> one hive.  Best of luck!
> --
> Kent Stienburg
> Remove NOSPAM to reply.

 greetings,

as a soon-to-be third year beekeeper, i'll second [or third or fourth or
whatever] the 2-hives-are-better-than-one concept.  my first year i started
with one hive.  seemed real strong going into the winter, but i lost them by
march of last year.  so, i restocked with package bees in the spring, built
a second hive, split the first colony with a new queen in july and managed
to harvest 80 lbs. or so of honey by fall from both colonies [combined].
fingers crossed, the girls look good, so far.  if the temp hits 50 here in
n.h. in the next couple of days, i plan to add my apistan strips and get the
whole ball rolling again.  maybe even feed them, if they're really raising
brood.  my point is, had i started with 2 colonies, maybe i would have had
one survive that first winter and i could have done the split earlier.
trying to find something positive from the loss, i can say that, as a
hobbyist,  i sure learned a lot about the different ways to start up a hive
in a short time, having started 3, one each from a nuc, a package and a
split in 2 years.

fwiw, shelley, you are gonna love keeping bees.

hope this helps,

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




From griffes@my-dejanews.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:18 EST 1999
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Subject: Re: Not dead!!!!
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In article <36F180B1.40F4@stortek.com>,
  Lili Krezel  wrote:
> Bill,

Lili, et al, I ain't Bill but I will give ya my take on your questions.  I
live in Onsted, MI.


> Can you explain why putting candy at the top of the hive prevents
> starvation when a super of honey at the top of the hive would not?

Good quality honey (low ash content) is the best overwintering food.  BUT the
crux of the matter is THEY GOTTA BE ABLE/WILLING TO REACH THEIR FOOD or it
might just as well be setting back in the honey barn for all the good it'll
do 'em.  As a rule this means that feed oughta be right above the cluster as
most times clusters do move up - however, just to teach ya a lesson on how
ignorant even the most experienced amongst us is about these little ladies,
sometimes the cluster will do something them thar books never did make
mention of - like how's about finding the cluster over on the East side of
the hive then at next check they are shifted completely over to the plumb
opposite or West side of the hive where the stores where yet plentiful.  (IMO
some colonies have a higher "survive at all costs" instinct and will do
things that seem against yer book learning to do it - including what I
aforementioned as well as abandoning brood to move to stores - mind you
neither thing is common).  But don't be worried on them exceptions - play the
odds and figure you got yer normal "move up" bees and get the food in contact
- IN CONTACT - did I mention IN CONTACT with the upper part of the cluster. 
It really don't matter if'n it bee above them if it bee above them by several
inches more than their cluster can reach ya see.


> I thought that since the bees are moving up, they would end up
> eating in the top honey super

That is generally true alright.  Is there a chance though that there is nice
pretty white empty comb between the nice dark brood combs and the yummy honey
they can't seem to reach?  I have seen bees retreat downward away from stores
to put brood in the dark comb and seperate themselves by one white comb super
>from  abundant stores they via cleaning out the white comb super had obviously
been moving up into earlier in the season.  (white comb super = a Deep full of
white comb in Deep frames in this fer instance - that deep had been full but
not capped in the Fall and a medium full of capped honey sat on top of it)

> The bees seemed to be in the upper super then, so I also put a full
> super of honey (removed last fall and not extracted yet) back on the
> hive, as it seems that honey is the superior bee food for winter
> feeding. Of course the full honey super went on top. And in January I
> did not want to encourage laying by trying to feed syrup.

GOOD honey is the superior bee overwintering food.  Some honeys ain't so hot
for overwintering yet come in during the fall.  They generally have a higher
ash content and thus make them poor gals in need of using the facilities more
often than the temperature allows.

Yep, feeding syrup in January in the Lower Great Lakes area wouldn't have
been the brightest thing to do UNLESS that was the only way to keep them
alive.	IF they had NO pollen in the reach of the cluster all winter then
feeding syrup even continuously sometimes does not kick them into brood
rearing due to lack of protien to sustain it.  The bees learnt me that when I
tried a darn fool project of a bee removal in September - had to draw all
their foundation since the comb was not usable - kept syrup in jars with
holes in them right atop the cluster and they cooperated enough to keep in
contact with it all winter and I never let 'em run dry.  Due IMO to no brood
rearing all winter they had about zero dead bees on their bottom board in
late winter before warm enough to clean house weather arrived.


> Anyway, we have had several  *very* cold spells since. In this
> situation, what is the advantage of feeding candy over honey? It
> sounds that if you have no honey give them, the candy is a better
> winter choice than syrup; I'm just asking about candy vs. honey.

If poor overwintering honey is all ya got then syrup might just be better at
times when you can get them to maintain contact and keep the feeder full (or
you extract the high ash honey and feed them full of proper syrup in making
winter prep).  Candy is used to provide carbohydrates to sustain life for
better times without heavily stimulating brood rearing - same is true of dry
sugar.	Once brood rearing starts they really start going through feed so the
idea is to not start brood rearing on a near starvation colony until Nature
can support it.


Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
Onsted, MI
USA
http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

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From mister-t@zzclinic.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:19 EST 1999
Article: 16197 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Excellent response. Only thing I would add is that candy is a
late winter- early spring feed. You want the bees to go into the
winter loaded with low particulate honey- if you are in a cold
climate where they have few opportunities for clensing flights.
One other reason why some beekeepers feed sugar syrup in the
fall.
The candy is zero particulate. It also contains its own water
source and gets soft over the cluster. It is wide enough to fit
not only over the cluster, but also where the cluster might move
to. I break the flat slabs up a bit so there is room to move
between frames. 
Save the honey you were going to feed until you do your spring
housecleaning, then, if you move the boxes so the bees on on the
bottom, position full frames of honey in the upper box right over
the bees.
And honey is not the best winter feed for cold climates. Some
excellent studies were done in England and plain white sugar
syrup-not boiled- was the best bee feed.
Bill T
Bath, ME
-- 
If there is a zz before clinic.net, remove it to reply directly.


From phempel@ibm.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:19 EST 1999
Article: 16198 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: phempel@ibm.net (Philip Hempel)
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,alt.walter-cronkite.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Beginner
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In article <7cqqam$qv6$1@newnews.global.net.uk>, rstewart@globalnet.co.uk 
says...
> Can anyone suggest what the best way to get started is?
> I live North East Scotland, where can I find out about suppliers,
> books web sites etc.
> 
> Any help very welcome..
> 
> Rex
> 
> 
> 
Check out the online webstore at www.blossomland.com. Request digital 
catalog and beginners booklet by email beeyard@blossomland.com! Over 1000 
items to review and order plus special savings in the e-catalog!

Call 800-637-5262 M-F 10-4 EST for the same requests if you like.

Phil Hempel


From beecrofter@aol.comBee Wed Mar 24 11:49:20 EST 1999
Article: 16199 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Things I have read tell me that a healthy hive of bees that is strong and well
fed will try to keep about 18% drone comb going .


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


From beetools@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:20 EST 1999
Article: 16200 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: beetools@aol.com (Beetools)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Using Runoff Pond For Water Source
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>From  the discription of your pond, it should work just fine. The only point I'd
like to make is that the bees may or may not choose to use it. We really don't
have much control of what the bees will choose as thier water supply, but once
they decide on a water supply, they are very loyal to it.

Ron Bennett
Luckiamute Bee
htp://members.aol.com/beetools


From honeybs@radix.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:21 EST 1999
Article: 16201 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs)
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,alt.walter-cronkite.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to get bees out of a house???
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 18:58:04 GMT
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phempel@ibm.net (Philip Hempel) wrote:

>> Roy Parker wrote:
>Go to www.blossomland.com and order the Gettum Gone Spray! Use by 
>spraying the entry area(s) and within 24-36 hours the bees will have 
>tracked the chemical into the brood area and thus the hive will die! Then 
>just clean out the area where the dead insects are found. Works on all 
>type of flying - and nesting insects! Inside buildings, trees or in the 
>ground! Can will do more that two applications! 

>Try it guaranteed satisfaction!

>Blossomland Supply
>www.blossomland.com
>beeyard@blossomland.com


Until someone uses that shit near someone's apiary and they
rob out the nest and kill themselves.  Then the honey gets
extracted and sold to the public.  Real good advice asshole.

With that much wisdom you should work for the department of
agriculture.

Greg the beekeep



       //          Bee Just & Just Bee!        
  =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA    
       \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs

              



From beetools@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:21 EST 1999
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The only caution I might add is that the location and type of drone cells will
give you and indication of what's going on. You did not describe the brood
pattern. If the drone cells are in groups and in larger drone cells, all is
well, but if they are scattered around in the brood area and in worker cells
and have extended "bullet" cappings and the brood patten is spotty, you may
have a failing queen or laying workers.

Ron Bennett
Luckiamute Bee
http://members.aol.com/beetools


From jimbo007@webtv.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:22 EST 1999
Article: 16203 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: jimbo007@webtv.net (Jim Roland)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Division Board Feeder Floats ??
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Try corks from wine bottles.  Cut them to
width and pin them together to make a 
raft !!


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From helmick@webtv.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:23 EST 1999
Article: 16204 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: helmick@webtv.net (donna helmick)
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Subject: I don't have any labels yet.......
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I'm donating  several jars of honey to the local Junior League to sell
at their annual spring charity fund raiser.  What is the minimum
information needed on my make-shift labels.  I'm using pint drinking
jars with handles.  

I only have until tomorrow to put something together.  Not to bragg, but
it's honey from last summer that I've just reliquified at very low
temperature and it's delicious.  Since I'm going to start selling honey
this summer, I think this might be a chance at some free advertising.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Donna



From harrisonrw@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:23 EST 1999
Article: 16205 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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>Another great step in the history of British beekeeping.
>Fumidil -B is being withdrawn withdrawn from the market.

Do you have any details on why it is being withdrawn from the market?

Regards,
Ralph


From sball@saltspring.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:24 EST 1999
Article: 16206 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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After a few sucessful seasons and many bites I believed i was becoming
tolerant of stings,no reactions.Apon spring investigation of two new
hives I got the inevitable bee bite.This time however I have sweeling
and pain.Can a different group of bees have a different venom,although
all are Italians?
 Besides anti histamines are there other treatments?Will I build a
tolerance to the venom?Thanks in advance


From pollinator@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:24 EST 1999
Article: 16207 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
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    It is with great sadness that I bring to the group's attention that Andy
Nachbaur, retired beekeeper, and cyber-beekeeping pioneer, has entered into
rest on March 17. Andy's wit and wisdom, sometimes opinionated ramblings, will
be greatly missed by this beekeeper. Andy pioneered in cyberspace with a
beekeeping bulletin board that offered a lot of resources for beekeepers before
the internet really got going.

   He was a frequent contributor to the Bee List and to
Sci.Agriculture.Beekeeping, often kindly steering new beekeepers into greater
understanding of the craft, sometimes pricking the balloons of those who only
thought they were experts.

   He finally discontinued his bulletin board in favor of a web page, which
still can be found at www.beenet.com. The page will be taken over by a friend. 

   I never met Andy personally. I knew him only through his writings, but
gained a great respect for him though this portal. Any post by him was always
read first.  I hope someone close will fill us in on the details.

   Andy has been ill for some time and suffering greatly, and has been rather
quiet of late, so some of the new members of this group may not be aware of his
extensive contributions and of the great loss to all of us.

   
Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


From dverville@worldnet.att.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:25 EST 1999
Article: 16208 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "David Verville" 
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to get bees out of a house???
Date: 21 Mar 1999 00:42:21 GMT
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I can't believe this answer!
I thought this group was bee keeping, not bee killing!

Dave Verville

Philip Hempel  wrote in article
...
> In article <36EAD99C.C1C43585@midtown.net>, jkimbroNOSPAM@midtown.net 
> says...
> > Bees in the wall, in my opinion, are the toughest to
> > retrieve,,,,normally.  However, since the house is "under construction"
> > prime time to pull or cut that siding away to expose the hive.
> > Box'em,,,patch and repaint the hole,,,donedeal
> > 
> > Roy Parker wrote:
> Go to www.blossomland.com and order the Gettum Gone Spray! Use by 
> spraying the entry area(s) and within 24-36 hours the bees will have 
> tracked the chemical into the brood area and thus the hive will die! Then

> just clean out the area where the dead insects are found. Works on all 
> type of flying - and nesting insects! Inside buildings, trees or in the 
> ground! Can will do more that two applications! 



From amschelp@pe.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:26 EST 1999
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Subject: Re: Another oak has fallen
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A fine eulogy, Pollinator, for our Old Drone. Thanks. "We'll be together 
again, somehow."


In article <19990320221429.26386.00000602@ng-fq1.aol.com>, 
pollinator@aol.com says...
> 
>     It is with great sadness that I bring to the group's attention that Andy
> Nachbaur, retired beekeeper, and cyber-beekeeping pioneer, has entered into
> rest on March 17. Andy's wit and wisdom, sometimes opinionated ramblings, will
> be greatly missed by this beekeeper. Andy pioneered in cyberspace with a
> beekeeping bulletin board that offered a lot of resources for beekeepers before
> the internet really got going.
> 
>    He was a frequent contributor to the Bee List and to
> Sci.Agriculture.Beekeeping, often kindly steering new beekeepers into greater
> understanding of the craft, sometimes pricking the balloons of those who only
> thought they were experts.
> 
>    He finally discontinued his bulletin board in favor of a web page, which
> still can be found at www.beenet.com. The page will be taken over by a friend. 
> 
>    I never met Andy personally. I knew him only through his writings, but
> gained a great respect for him though this portal. Any post by him was always
> read first.  I hope someone close will fill us in on the details.
> 
>    Andy has been ill for some time and suffering greatly, and has been rather
> quiet of late, so some of the new members of this group may not be aware of his
> extensive contributions and of the great loss to all of us.
> 
>    
> Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
> The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html
> 
> Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
> http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm
> 


From griffes@my-dejanews.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:26 EST 1999
Article: 16210 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: griffes@my-dejanews.com
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Subject: Re: Nosema treatment
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In article ,
  Tom Speight  wrote:
> Another great step in the history of British beekeeping.
> Fumidil -B is being withdrawn withdrawn from the market.
> This leaves us with only one disease we can legaly treat - varroa.


Well at least they left you armed to deal with the worst trouble and the one
that will take the longest to breed bees resistant enough for.  ;-)

Sorry to hear it but more of it will happen all over IMO as panic replaces
reason and people become increasingly seperated from producing their own food
or even knowing how it is produced - leaving them to believe it just magically
appears on the store shelf.

Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
Onsted, MI
USA
http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


From dlcrawford@home.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:27 EST 1999
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I can't believe this answer either!

After more that 30 years of earning a living picking up swarms and removing
hives from anywhere you can possibly imagine, I'll tell you that walls
(inside) are the easiest, least messy and fast of any job I do.
I've been using a bee vac since the beginning in an evolving form for my
entire career.  Where's the Johnson suggesting this option? ( and selling a
vac box?) or someone suggesting a beekeeper to HIRE that could solve this
job in favor of the bees.
 I hate the jobs where someone has sprayed the bees and now the honey is
running down the walls into the structure and smell nearly gags you and
residual pesticide is having to be breathed be the person having to clean up
the MESS. And you get NO honey for your effort.
The wall is going to have to be opened anyway, why not DO IT RIGHT?

David L Crawford




From francois-et-beatrice.servel-merle@wanadoo.fr Wed Mar 24 11:49:27 EST 1999
Article: 16212 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "françois et béatrice servel-merle" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Grease Patty
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Hello, 
I have been using exterder patties for about ten years. They are effecient
and easy to use. Even when there is no apparent consume by the bees, they
are effective. We can then imagine that the antibiotic is realeased is the
colonie by contact on the legs, and after, as the bees are always in
contact, suckling  each others, on the hair, and at last the antibiotic go
into their mouth and body and the royal gelly containing oxytetracycline
feeds and prevents the larvaes to get AFB.
The only problem with them is that they can stay too long time in a hive
because the bees can spend a very long time to eat or destroy it. Then the
possibilities for Bacillus Larvae to be resistant to the antib. is
important.
We could imagine to apply the a fat solution of oxytetracycline on an
cardboard insert able to be destroyed by the bees, but staying  in the
colony about 3 weeks, not less and not more.
-- 
Bye.
François Servel
francois-et-beatrice.servel-merle@wanadoo.fr

allend@internode.net a écrit dans l'article
<7bm25r$a2r$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com>...
> 
> > I have heard that you can create a grease patty by adding sugar and
> > vegetable oil.  My question is do you use vegetable oil or shorting?
> 
> Depends whether you want to make a patty that has been endorsed by
researchers
> who have run scientific tests and which lasts a planned period of time in
the
> hive, or one that is easy to make and is endorsed by various beekeepers
who
> 'think' it works, and which may be consumed quickly.
> 
> If the former, then a vegetable shortening is the answer, otherwise you
can
> use anything oily -- people have and do.
> 
> If you want more details and pictures, go to
> http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/ and select the 'Extender Patty' link. 
> Adding tetracycline is optional.
> 
> There's lots more there too, but some pages are slow loading...
> 
> Allen
> 
> -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
> http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own  
 
> 


From pascal66@globetrotter.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:28 EST 1999
Article: 16213 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pascal fournier 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: deep honey super as brood super?
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 17:01:24 -0500
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Hi!
Can I use deep honey super as brood super?
As i plan to split my hives this summer, I only use 9 1/2 inch.super on
my hives last year.. The idea was to use this deep super after
extraction as brood frames, so the bees won't have to build brood combs
the next year when I will split my hives and introduce the new queens. I
thought it allows the bees to save some time in the season.

I read somewhere that honey cell and brood cell was slightly different
in size and shape.
Is it exact?
does it means that I can't use the deep honey frame I prepare last year
for brood?

On my opinion, the difference is not so important that bee can't manage
with it, as they are able to do the conversion from worker cell in drone
cell but I need an advice.

(and also, I must confess, this supers has been really heavy to load....
hope it wasn't for nothing)

                                            thanks to all the
group.              pascal.




From jaf@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk Wed Mar 24 11:49:28 EST 1999
Article: 16214 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: jaf@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk (JAF)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: beekeeping urls
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 13:12:03 GMT
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E-mail me your beekeeping urls, and I'll add links to my upcoming web
pages.  Include a one-sentence description.
-- 
jaf@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk
www.jaf.nildram.co.uk


From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Wed Mar 24 11:49:29 EST 1999
Article: 16215 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Comb Honey Production
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 99 07:21:09 EST
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In article <36E803FE.F74F39BC@wave.home.com>
Neil Carter  writes:
 
> ... produce some comb honey ... Ross Rounds.
>
> ... any other good "how to" books >available ?
 
Neil,
 
The best book on the topic is Killion's _Honey_in_the_Comb_ from Dadant
Press.  It is not only the best comb honey production text, it is also
an excellent general beekeeping text.  Be forewarned that Killion's
methods are by far the most labor intensive of any of the comb honey
production techniques but it also gives the best results.  And if you
follow his methods you will be a far better beekeeper by the end of the
season as his methods don't allow one to be timid with their bees -
you'll spend a season real up close and personal!  HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!
 
Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee!


From Billy.Y.Smart@nospam.boeing.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:29 EST 1999
Article: 16216 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Billy Y. Smart II" 
Subject: Using Runoff Pond For Water Source
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--------------B864EE67F0913CCB9B0117FC
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Group,

I am a beeginner and I plan to locate my first hives on the dam of a
pond (1/3 acre) that is the perfect location
for bees. It is open to the East and has plenty of trees to the West for
evening shade. I plan to position the hive entrance so the bees
would have a flight path over the water. However in my reading I have
found reference that stagnant water is bad for bees in that it
can cause nosema. The pond is charged by runoff and even though it never
gets dry, the water level can drop to as low as 1ft in the late
summer. The alternative would be to locate my apiary along a creek, but
it is heavily wooded and I would be hard pressed to find a site
that would provide morning sun. Flooding is also a concern.

Has anyone had a bad experience with using runoff ponds as a water
source?

Thanks,

--
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */



--------------B864EE67F0913CCB9B0117FC
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


Group,


I am a beeginner and I plan to locate my first hives on the dam of a
pond (1/3 acre) that is the perfect location

for bees. It is open to the East and has plenty of trees to the West
for evening shade. I plan to position the hive entrance so the bees

would have a flight path over the water. However in my reading I have
found reference that stagnant water is bad for bees in that it

can cause nosema. The pond is charged by runoff and even though it
never gets dry, the water level can drop to as low as 1ft in the late

summer. The alternative would be to locate my apiary along a creek,
but it is heavily wooded and I would be hard pressed to find a site

that would provide morning sun. Flooding is also a concern.


Has anyone had a bad experience with using runoff ponds as a water source?


Thanks,

-- 
Billy Y. Smart II
/* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
/*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */    
/*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */

 

--------------B864EE67F0913CCB9B0117FC--



From itl191@online.kharkov.ua Wed Mar 24 11:49:30 EST 1999
Article: 16217 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Sergey Beketov" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee equipment
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 00:37:56 +0300
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JAF  wrote in message
36fc9ffa.32348650@supernews.nildram.co.uk...
>On Fri, 19 Mar 1999 17:49:18 +0300, "Sergey Beketov"
> wrote:
>
>>Hello, I'm from Ukraine and would like to offer such bee's stuff:
>>
>Do you have a web site we can look at?
>--
>jaf@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk
>www.jaf.nildram.co.uk
>

Unfortunately, no. But if you have any questions, just mail me and I'll
answer.

Regards,
Sergey.




From pollinator@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:31 EST 1999
Article: 16218 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: deep honey super as brood super?
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From: pascal fournier 

>Can I use deep honey super as brood super?
>As i plan to split my hives this summer, I only use 9 1/2 inch.super on
>my hives last year.. The idea was to use this deep super after
>extraction as brood frames, so the bees won't have to build brood combs
>the next year when I will split my hives and introduce the new queens. I
>thought it allows the bees to save some time in the season.
>
>I read somewhere that honey cell and brood cell was slightly different
>in size and shape.
>Is it exact?
>does it means that I can't use the deep honey frame I prepare last year
>for brood?
>
>On my opinion, the difference is not so important that bee can't manage
>with it, as they are able to do the conversion from worker cell in drone
>cell but I need an advice.
>
>(and also, I must confess, this supers has been really heavy to load....
>hope it wasn't for nothing)

   There are two sizes of brood cells, either of which the bees also use for
honey storage. It sounds like you drew out new foundation by using it in a
super. That is an excellent plan.

    Take a look at your comb and make sure it is mostly worker brood size, the
smaller of the two cell sizes. Remember that the bees will need both sizes in
the brood chamber. I try to keep worker brood comb in most of it, but always
leave the two outside frames with some drone comb as well.

    Many hobby beekeepers fight with the bees in trying to remove drone comb.
The bees will tear out worker brood comb to make drone comb, when they need it,
so the effort is futile in the end. 

   By keeping worker brood in the center, you give them a good place to build
up, then when they are strong enough to raise drones, they can use the outer
frames. When they no longer want to raise drones in the later part of the
season, they will use this for honey storage.

    You are right pascal, a full deep super is a heavy baby!


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


From beecrofter@aol.comBee Wed Mar 24 11:49:31 EST 1999
Article: 16220 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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   I will miss him,
When an old man dies it is like a great library burning to the ground.


Tom



There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com


From honey.road@sympatico.ca Wed Mar 24 11:49:32 EST 1999
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Hi Stephen, from my experience, ther are a few measure to take.  Ice on
the swelling helps, Benadril make a cream lotion that will reduce
swelling and the itch, great if you have it with you, and apply it when
you get stung.  And for after wards, Benadril anti hystamine tablets work
very well, however, you cannot drive after taking them.

Allen B

stephen ball wrote:

> Any suggestions to reduce swelling and pain from bee stings?thanks in
> advance



From sball@saltspring.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:33 EST 1999
Article: 16222 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Any suggestions to reduce swelling and pain from bee stings?thanks in
advance


From mpym@hive.netkonect.co.uk Wed Mar 24 11:49:34 EST 1999
Article: 16223 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Madeleine Pym" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Nosema treatment
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 10:07:33 -0000
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Hello Tom,

Is Fumidil B being withdrawn altogether?

I thought it was just that the Bee Insurance Scheme was not going to stock
it anymore (due to lack of demand and old past-sell-by-date stocks hanging
around).

I was under the impression that we could still get it from equipment
suppliers like Thornes, EBS, etc.

Should I panic?

Madeleine Pym, London beekeeper




From jmitc1014@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:34 EST 1999
Article: 16224 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Help for 1st-time urban beekeeper
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I want to start 2 hives in my backyard in Cambridge, MA. 
One side of my backyard is bordered by the rear end of a 15 ft. high garage and
8 ft. solid board fence. The opposite side of the yard has a flimsy wire fence
separating our yard from our neighbor's. I would rather that the bees' flight
path not cross over this neighbor's yard. I would also like to prompt my bees
to fly high enough that they generally avoid walking people and pets. 
I want to place the hives next to the back of the garage (about 9-13 ft. from
it). If I turn the hive entrances to face the garage, will the bees be inclined
to make their flight path up and over the garage, or will they just turn around
and buzz the neighbors? 
Also, if the bees fly up and over the garage, they will be pointed toward a
large natural freshwater pond in a nearby park. This leads to another question
-- The pond is about 300 yards away from my house. Is this close enough to be
considered reasonably accessible for the bees, and will they be able to find it
since there is a car dealership blocking direct site?
It is important to to me to be able to solve both these issues (water and
flight path) without relandscaping because I don't have the money to plant a
hedge or build a pond (getting started in beekeeping is rather expensive).

Thanks for any help or advice you can offer!
John M.



From BlancoB@email.msn.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:35 EST 1999
Article: 16225 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: "Berny" 
Subject: Hive Construction
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 18:25:34 -0500
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16225

Can someone please help me with the correct spacing for the bottom board.  I
have seen drawings for 3/8" through 7/8".  What is the correct size?  And
should they be changed throughout the season?

Also what is the proper bee space for the inner cover?  The inner cover I
purchased has a different space on each side.  And why wouldn't a plain
piece of plywood do?




From BlancoB@Tech-center.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:36 EST 1999
Article: 16226 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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test




From bill.greenrose@valley.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:36 EST 1999
Article: 16227 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Bill Greenrose 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Another oak has fallen
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 17:59:32 -0500
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH, USA
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Pollinator wrote:

>     It is with great sadness that I bring to the group's attention that Andy
> Nachbaur, retired beekeeper, and cyber-beekeeping pioneer, has entered into
> rest on March 17. Andy's wit and wisdom, sometimes opinionated ramblings, will
> be greatly missed by this beekeeper. Andy pioneered in cyberspace with a
> beekeeping bulletin board that offered a lot of resources for beekeepers before
> the internet really got going.
>
> 
>
> Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
> The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html
>
> Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
> http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm

geez, i never met the guy, only knew him through his postings these last couple of
years [and a few private emails], which enlightened, entertained and, sometimes,
annoyed the cr*p out of me.  but, i have a tear in my eye as i write this.  damn.
amazing how one can make connections via the net.

the old drone will be missed and i consider myself fortunate to have been able to
learn from his experience for at least a short time.

i hear the honey is really good where he is now.

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




From bill.greenrose@valley.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:37 EST 1999
Article: 16228 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Bill Greenrose 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: early early feeding
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 18:17:09 -0500
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greetings, all.

well, the weird weather this winter has caught up to me.  i went out
this afternoon to add a couple of beepro/sugar syrup patties to my
hives, and i found the clusters on top of the uppermost frames in both
hives.  and one of them is 3 deeps high!  i'm really glad i decided to
add the patties today.  both clusters looked healthy, but they couldn't
have been far from starvation.  i'm out of sugar, but i plan to start
feeding each colony tomorrow via rapid feeders above the center holes in
the inner covers.  since i still have a foot of snow on the ground,
another winter storm on the way, and at least a month until spring hits,
i figure i'll go with a 2:1 ratio for now.  and keep giving them
patties, if they'll take them.

any advice or comments?

bill

p.s. hungry bees are mean!  at first i thought i'd go out without a
veil.  glad i put one on, because they were NOT happy to see me [and i
didn't bring my smoker].  didn't think to check my outer garments before
heading back in [sloppy beekeeping practice], and i ended up with a half
dozen bees at the dining room window.  made good meals for my
carnivorous plants.

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




From BlancoB@email.msn.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:37 EST 1999
Article: 16229 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: "Berny" 
References: <7cdu7h$s38$1@news.ipa.net> <36eb0e89.2017965@news.eni.net>
Subject: Re: top covers
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How does the telescoping cover allow ventilation, if it seals against the
inner cover?





From jkimbroNOSPAM@midtown.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:38 EST 1999
Article: 16230 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Jerry Kimbro 
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to get bees out of a house???
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 16:12:16 -0800
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Agreed that his was not the right answer,,,,a simple 'Hey Bud,,,wrong answer'
and I'm betting he'd get the point.  Calling him an asshole only junks up the
group.  Bee-vac,,,,good,,,,probably the best solution.  Wish there were more
beekeepers around that had them,,,I'd be able to borrow one!
.........and just in case the point was missed,,,,,,um,,,Roy,,,,wrong answer

David Verville wrote:

> I can't believe this answer!
> I thought this group was bee keeping, not bee killing!
>
> Dave Verville
>
> Philip Hempel  wrote in article
> ...
> > In article <36EAD99C.C1C43585@midtown.net>, jkimbroNOSPAM@midtown.net
> > says...
> > > Bees in the wall, in my opinion, are the toughest to
> > > retrieve,,,,normally.  However, since the house is "under construction"
> > > prime time to pull or cut that siding away to expose the hive.
> > > Box'em,,,patch and repaint the hole,,,donedeal
> > >
> > > Roy Parker wrote:
> > Go to www.blossomland.com and order the Gettum Gone Spray! Use by
> > spraying the entry area(s) and within 24-36 hours the bees will have
> > tracked the chemical into the brood area and thus the hive will die! Then
>
> > just clean out the area where the dead insects are found. Works on all
> > type of flying - and nesting insects! Inside buildings, trees or in the
> > ground! Can will do more that two applications!



From griffes@my-dejanews.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:39 EST 1999
Article: 16231 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: griffes@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Not dead!!!!
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 00:10:26 GMT
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In article <36F39993.83629254@zzclinic.net>,
  Bill Truesdell  wrote:
> And honey is not the best winter feed for cold climates. Some
> excellent studies were done in England and plain white sugar
> syrup-not boiled- was the best bee feed.

The question about "best" revolves around several factors not all of which
were addressed in the studies you refer to.  If mere "best survival rate due
to varying winter feed" is the issue then likely the studies are correct but
unfortunately this is real life not a funded study.

For instance - cost of labor to extract out the brood chamber/food chamber
honey (more of a pain due to brood presence) - and then cost of both syrup
and labor to feed them back full of syrup.  Then you must weigh those
ADDITIONAL costs against the extra loss (and attendant costs in replacing it)
to find out the actual "real life" answer.  IMO that leaves GOOD low ash
honey as the best overwintering feed - but you are welcome to have your own
opinion on the matter.	And a side benefit is that via using good honey to
winter your bees on you aren't selling good honey at undervalued prices to
support the refined sugar industry that directly competes with honey in the
market.

Of course the flip side arguement is - why not extract and sell the honey and
let the bees eat cheaper syrup.  Always wondered if those that proffered that
arguement had counted up the labor cost in coming to their conclusion.  Maybe
they have?  Personally my time is valuable to me.

Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
Onsted, MI
USA
http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

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From jkimbroNOSPAM@midtown.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:39 EST 1999
Article: 16232 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Jerry Kimbro 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Two Questions from a Beginner...
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.....well first ya dig out those old Christmas tree lights from last year and
staple it to her head....but seriously,,,no matter what ya do they still
don't shoot up a flare saying 'here I am'.  You can paint her head a neon I
s'pose. Normally, if you get them marked they're painted a certain color
depending on what year they were born. So if you want to track her age by
paint,,,I don't think they have a year for "neon". The old gals not too
tough to find after you have a little practice under your belt.

Jim Murray wrote:

> Hello Fellow BeeKeepers,
>
> I have two quick questions:
>
> 1) What's the best way to make a Queen so she can be found more quickly
> in the hive? I've been told you can use a dot of latex paint on her
> back...is this acceptable?
>
> 2) Can you use Corn Syrup to feed bees? I know that in the early spring,
> sugar syrup is used, but can you use Corn Syrup as well?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jim Murray
> murray@albany.net
> www.albany.net/~murray



From griffes@my-dejanews.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:40 EST 1999
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From: griffes@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Honeybee Improvement Program
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 00:20:42 GMT
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  		Honeybee
				Improvement
							Program. . .


History:  The Honeybee Improvement Program (or HIP) was begun in the spring
of 1993.  The beekeepers who originally banded together represented many
different phases of beekeeping: migratory and pollination beekeepers, honey
producers, intermediate size operators, and those interested in queen rearing
and bee breeding.  We came from a variety of backgrounds.  But we had one
purpose - to find resistance to the varroa mite.

Protocol:  Over the years our protocol for selecting breeding stock has been
simplified:  At the end of our regular production year the beekeeper will not
treat his best producers for mites in any way.	The queen will be marked and
the hive will be marked also. One of two options will be followed: 1) Upon
identification of the best colonies he will take them to a special yard, a
HIP yard OR 2) the next spring he will take only those untreated hives that
wintered well and move them to a special yard, a HIP yard.  This special HIP
yard will have only untreated hives being tested for HIP.  This insures
inoculation with varroa mites.	Each cooperator tests the number of hives
that he is comfortable with.  This is a real life test.

Our Definition of Resistance:  The test yard hives remain untreated for two
years.  The varroa mite is vigorous and reproduces readily during the summer.
We feel it is significant when a hive is not treated for two years and still
survives and prospers.  We think these two year untreated thriving survivors
(UTS) must have some apparent tolerance for varroa mites.

Breeders:  These two year UTS hives are then used as breeders.	HIP will cage
the queens and graft from the breeders.  In return, the cooperator will be
assured that at least 50% of his cell order will be from his own queen, his
contribution to HIP.  The cooperator's cell order may include as many as
three different stocks, with color-coded cell cups.  All stocks are
blind-tested, only HIP knowing the actual stock.

At year's end, the cooperator will report on his HIP yard and his experiences
with the different blind tested stocks used in his operation.

HIP benefits us all.  Everyone gambles a little, so no one has to gamble a
lot.

HIP Cooperators - Jim Conor, The Kleins, John Hettinga, Chuck Keiser, Tom
Nebel, Rod McCarrick, Jim Meloy, Scott Barnes,  Phil Tanner,  Kirk Webster,
Steve Cantu, Gary Veale, Jack Griffes - We invite you to join us.

For HIP Queen Cells contact:
 Gary Veale (616) 868-7255 (Freeport, MI) vealehaven AT earthlink dot net
 Jack Griffes (517) 467-2818 (Onsted, MI) jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
 Steve Cantu (941) 735-1679 barn or (941)735-8671 hm (FL)
For mated Summer Queens: Kirk Webster (802) 758-2501 (VT)


A few common questions about HIP

Q. Will the queens I get mated from HIP cells survive untreated like the
breeders they came from?

A. Some will but at this point in the effort most unfortunately will not - we
advise PROPERLY TIMED treatment for Varroa mites in the bulk of every
operation to keep losses down.	HIP Cooperators leave only a hand chosen few
"best of the best" untreated for 2 years for complete HIP testing.

Q.  How many will survive untreated now?

A.  Variables abound and we cannot predict results in our own test yards let
alone in your operation.  One HIP Cooperator recently reported a winter with
under 10% loss in his treated stock (bulk of operation), 30% loss in his first
year untreated yard (with zero loss in the actual HIP colonies there), and 70%
loss in his HIP 2 year UTS yard.  Does that mean you will experience the same?
No - your management and locations will differ.  Will he even experience the
same next year?  Probably not - this is real live beekeeping remember.

Q.  Has the stock actually been improved?

A.  While it is hard to actually quantify "improvement" we can tell you that
initially simply leaving colonies untreated over one winter resulted commonly
in 80% losses - now we have to leave the hand selected test colonies untreated
for two winters to select HIP breeders.  Going from a one year untreated test
to a two year untreated test does not make the test just twice as hard - the
difficulty of passing the test is raised exponentially via adding that second
year and we don't use those that "just survived" we use the 2 yr. Untreated
Thriving Survivors (UTS) as HIP breeders.

Q.  Why does your HIP test leave part of your stock untreated for two years
when you know a lot will die that way?

A. Essentially we are intentionally working at speeding up Nature's process
of breeding bee stock that can survive and thrive IN THE NORTH without human
aid. Nature would eventually solve the problem IF we beekeepers could just
let all the susceptible stock die and the survivors work it out over several
decades. Of course Nature sometimes solves these problems with extinction of
a now unfit species - that being objectionable due to our reliance on
honeybee pollination for much of our own food supply (about 1/3) we figure it
is wiser to "patiently over time" selectively breed toward what we want to
have in the future.  We each sacrifice a small part of our stock each year to
insure that HIP will have 2 yr. UTS breeders each year - your own test yard
may get wiped out one year - two years later it may have that years best HIP
breeder found in it - but via community effort HIP will find 2 yr. UTS
breeders to graft from every year - we all gamble a little, so no one has to
gamble a lot.

 Q. Isn't it time you joined HIP and started to  help our community effort
out? A. (fill in the blank)


Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
Onsted, MI
USA
http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

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From jcaldeira@earthlink.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:40 EST 1999
Article: 16234 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: jcaldeira@earthlink.net (John Caldeira)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Help for 1st-time urban beekeeper
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 00:18:14 GMT
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jmitc1014@aol.com (JMitc1014) wrote:
> If I turn the hive entrances to face the garage, will the bees be inclined
>to make their flight path up and over the garage, or will they just turn around
>and buzz the neighbors? 

Bees can not be aimed like a gun to go in one direction.  They will
tend to go in the direction that has nectar.  A fence over 6 foot is
sufficient to get the bees over the heads of people.  They are not
likely to bother the neighbors.

Water for urban bees is harder to control.  They prefer non-moving,
aged water and are likely to use the closest good source of water they
can find.  A half-wiskey barrel water garden with floating plants
makes an excellent water source for bees.

-John     

John Caldeira
Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/



From lithar@midwest.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:41 EST 1999
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From: AL 
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to get bees out of a house???
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 18:55:45 -0600
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I've been following this thread but have lost the original post that got
the ball rolling. Was it someone at Blossomland who came up with this
solution? If so shouldn't they know better? I'm surprised Kevin hasn't
stepped in with a suggestion or two - I hear he's got a 'Big Johnson'
that would do the trick;)

AL






Jerry Kimbro wrote:
> 
> Agreed that his was not the right answer,,,,a simple 'Hey Bud,,,wrong answer'
> and I'm betting he'd get the point.  Calling him an asshole only junks up the
> group.  Bee-vac,,,,good,,,,probably the best solution.  Wish there were more
> beekeepers around that had them,,,I'd be able to borrow one!
> .........and just in case the point was missed,,,,,,um,,,Roy,,,,wrong answer
> 
> David Verville wrote:
> 
> > I can't believe this answer!
> > I thought this group was bee keeping, not bee killing!
> >
> > Dave Verville
> >
> > Philip Hempel  wrote in article
> > ...
> > > In article <36EAD99C.C1C43585@midtown.net>, jkimbroNOSPAM@midtown.net
> > > says...
> > > > Bees in the wall, in my opinion, are the toughest to
> > > > retrieve,,,,normally.  However, since the house is "under construction"
> > > > prime time to pull or cut that siding away to expose the hive.
> > > > Box'em,,,patch and repaint the hole,,,donedeal
> > > >
> > > > Roy Parker wrote:
> > > Go to www.blossomland.com and order the Gettum Gone Spray! Use by
> > > spraying the entry area(s) and within 24-36 hours the bees will have
> > > tracked the chemical into the brood area and thus the hive will die! Then
> >
> > > just clean out the area where the dead insects are found. Works on all
> > > type of flying - and nesting insects! Inside buildings, trees or in the
> > > ground! Can will do more that two applications!


From pollinator@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:41 EST 1999
Article: 16236 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: I don't have any labels yet.......
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From: beecrofter@aol.comBee (BeeCrofter)

>Are there any problems with labelling honey by volume? I pack mostly in mason
>jar pints and qts
>

Depends on how close the inspector is watching. I did it for a while, when I
was first starting, until the inpector told me to do it by weight.


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


From griffes@my-dejanews.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:42 EST 1999
Article: 16237 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: griffes@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: deep honey super as brood super?
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 01:37:34 GMT
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In article <36F41AB4.13EF8113@globetrotter.net>,
  pascal fournier  wrote:
> Hi!
> Can I use deep honey super as brood super?
> As i plan to split my hives this summer, I only use 9 1/2 inch.super on
> my hives last year.. The idea was to use this deep super after
> extraction as brood frames, so the bees won't have to build brood combs
> the next year when I will split my hives and introduce the new queens. I
> thought it allows the bees to save some time in the season.


That is a good plan.


> I read somewhere that honey cell and brood cell was slightly different
> in size and shape.
> Is it exact?


Bees make two normal size cells - worker and drone.  Then if they have a mess
they make odd ball shaped transition cells to fill in "gaps" but these look
unlike normal cells.  Bees can within limits via different sized foundation
be persuaded to make non-normal sized cells - either larger or smaller than
normal.  However assuming you either used no foundation or regular worker
sized foundation then ya got nothing to worry on.


Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
Onsted, MI
USA
http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

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From phempel@ibm.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:43 EST 1999
Article: 16238 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: phempel@ibm.net (Philip Hempel)
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,alt.walter-cronkite.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Tribute to Andy Nachbaur
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 21:57:57 -0500
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It is with great sadness that I bring to the group's attention that 
Andy Nachbaur, retired beekeeper, and cyber-beekeeping pioneer, has 
entered into rest on March 17. 

Andy was the first BBS for beekeeping that I subscribed too back around 
1988! We would dial in and make contact with the beekeeping world with 
Andy's BBS.Andy, himself many times would pop in and chat with you one 
on one. His attention to his members and the time and devotion he gave
in providing his BBS to all beekeepers was and still remains unique in 
the beekeeping world. I met him once and talked several times on the 
phone and many times through email, he always was supportive and 
encouraging in my efforts to put online a secure and complete webstore 
for beekeepers and the public who loved the beehive products. His 
encouragement and example contributed to my staying the course in "going 
online".

I am so sorry to hear of his passing - he was a visionary of the 
beekeeping community in providing a digital link for all who would log 
into his BBS. The beekeeping community owes a debt of thanks to Andy 
Nachbaur - myself included. May the good Lord give peace and comfort 
to his family. I would hope his family and close friends realize the 
legacy Andy has left to all beekeepers on the World Wide Web. 

With sadness and fond memories - Andy Thank You! I wish I had been 
able to say this before your passing from our midst.


Philip Hempel
Blossomland Supply
beeyard@blossomland.com
www.blossomland.com


From walter@coultrup.freeserve.co.uk Wed Mar 24 11:49:43 EST 1999
Article: 16239 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Walter Coultrup" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Spring Feeding
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 11:02:10 -0000
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_003B_01BE6E0A.1B86CCE0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I have found spring feeding one of the most difficult of beekeeping =
decisions. To feed or not to feed. Most years I succumb and feed (either =
syrup or candy, or, not recommended by the experts, unsaleable  honey)  =
Most years I find that I have overfed and the bees are short of space =
for the brood. I live in a good pollen area, so the comb gets full of =
honey and pollen.  There is no easy answer short of getting in and =
having a look.
                                                Walter

------=_NextPart_000_003B_01BE6E0A.1B86CCE0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I have found spring feeding one of =
the most=20
difficult of beekeeping decisions. To feed or not to feed. Most years I =
succumb=20
and feed (either syrup or candy, or, not recommended by the experts,=20
unsaleable  honey)  Most years I find that I have overfed and =
the bees=20
are short of space for the brood. I live in a good pollen area, so the =
comb gets=20
full of honey and pollen.  There is no easy answer short of getting =
in and=20
having a look.


          &nbs=
p;            =
;            =
             =

Walter


------=_NextPart_000_003B_01BE6E0A.1B86CCE0--



From pollinator@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:44 EST 1999
Article: 16240 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
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Subject: Afrobeetle
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    If you'd like to see pictures of the new US pest, the African Hive beetle,
and the damage they do, visit:
http://www.pollinator.com/afrobeetles.htm

Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html
The Pollination Home Page:    http://www.pollinator.com

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


From achj@swissonline.ch Wed Mar 24 11:49:44 EST 1999
Article: 16241 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: J.Achermann 
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Subject: Re: Maps of Canada?
Date: 21 Mar 1999 21:50:17 GMT
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Shiraz Velji  schreibt: > Does anybody have computer graphic images of the following maps of
> Canada?:
> 
>     -Agricultural Areas
>     -Climatical Areas
>     -Landform Regions
>     -Soil Areas
>        etc., etc..
> 
> Could you please send the images, or a web site which has these images,
> to me at
>     smooth@comnet.ca
> 
> Much appreciated.
> 
> 



From honey.road@sympatico.ca Wed Mar 24 11:49:45 EST 1999
Article: 16242 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Hi Bill, where abouts are you located?.  I'm in Sault Ste Marie, Onatrio,
and sounds like you have pretty much the same climate.  Locals suggest
starting with 2:1 for the first feeding, then 1:1 after that, don't want to
confuse them with fall nectar.  Stating when the sugar maples start to run
is a good indicator for feeding.  By then pollen should become available.
But you have to be carefull, once you start, it's hard to stop.  Plus if you
over feed, it can lead to swarming.
Gotta find that balance.  Let me know if there is anything else I can helop
with.

Allen

Bill Greenrose wrote:

> greetings, all.
>
> well, the weird weather this winter has caught up to me.  i went out
> this afternoon to add a couple of beepro/sugar syrup patties to my
> hives, and i found the clusters on top of the uppermost frames in both
> hives.  and one of them is 3 deeps high!  i'm really glad i decided to
> add the patties today.  both clusters looked healthy, but they couldn't
> have been far from starvation.  i'm out of sugar, but i plan to start
> feeding each colony tomorrow via rapid feeders above the center holes in
> the inner covers.  since i still have a foot of snow on the ground,
> another winter storm on the way, and at least a month until spring hits,
> i figure i'll go with a 2:1 ratio for now.  and keep giving them
> patties, if they'll take them.
>
> any advice or comments?
>
> bill
>
> p.s. hungry bees are mean!  at first i thought i'd go out without a
> veil.  glad i put one on, because they were NOT happy to see me [and i
> didn't bring my smoker].  didn't think to check my outer garments before
> heading back in [sloppy beekeeping practice], and i ended up with a half
> dozen bees at the dining room window.  made good meals for my
> carnivorous plants.
>
> ##########################################
>
> don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player
>
> bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
> greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
> http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397



From davidsmith2@mindspring.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:46 EST 1999
Article: 16243 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: David Smith 
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Subject: Re: How to get bees out of a house???
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I think you should point out to those people not in the 
know that other bees will smell the smallest amount of 
remaining hive in a wall and start the whole thing all over 
again!  What Fun.


From drgonfly@ultranet.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:46 EST 1999
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Go to bed

Love
Marc




From vabeach@my-dejanews.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:47 EST 1999
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Subject: Re: Two Questions from a Beginner...
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Liquid paper works ok but on her thorax not head. As for the corn syrup I've
never used it, only sugar...ernie


> > 1) What's the best way to make a Queen so she can be found more quickly
> > in the hive? I've been told you can use a dot of latex paint on her
> > back...is this acceptable?
> >
> > 2) Can you use Corn Syrup to feed bees? I know that in the early spring,
> > sugar syrup is used, but can you use Corn Syrup as well?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Jim Murray
> > murray@albany.net
> > www.albany.net/~murray
>
>

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


From honeybs@radix.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:48 EST 1999
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From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs)
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Subject: Re: How to get bees out of a house???
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Jerry Kimbro  wrote:

>Agreed that his was not the right answer,,,,a simple 'Hey Bud,,,wrong answer'
>and I'm betting he'd get the point.  Calling him an asshole only junks up the
>group.  Bee-vac,,,,good,,,,probably the best solution.  Wish there were more
>beekeepers around that had them,,,I'd be able to borrow one!
>.........and just in case the point was missed,,,,,,um,,,Roy,,,,wrong answer

Sorry but I call'em as I see'em.

Greg the beekeep



       //          Bee Just & Just Bee!        
  =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA    
       \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs

              



From Paul@adrem.demon.co.uk Wed Mar 24 11:49:49 EST 1999
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From: Paul Walton 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Beginner
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 09:36:13 +0000
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In article <7cqqam$qv6$1@newnews.global.net.uk>, R Stewart
 writes
>Can anyone suggest what the best way to get started is?
>I live North East Scotland, where can I find out about suppliers,
>books web sites etc.
>
>Any help very welcome..
>
>Rex
>
>
Your best bet would be to contact       E.H.Thorne (Beehives) Ltd.
                                        Beehive Works,
                                        Wragby,
                                        Market Rasen
                                        Lincoln
                                        LN8 5LA

                                        01673 858555

                                        thorne@dial.pipex.com
                                        www.thorne.co.uk

as they have a distributor not far from the old Steele & Brodie site.
-- 
Paul Walton
Bedfordshire, England
Paul@adrem.demon.co.uk


From itl191@online.kharkov.ua Wed Mar 24 11:49:49 EST 1999
Article: 16248 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Sergey Beketov" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Beekeeping equipment
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:54:56 +0200
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Hello, I'm from Ukraine and would like to offer such bee's stuff:

I can collect about 20t of bee wax each month. I work with Germany for about
3 years and it weren't any complaints about its condition. The price of bee
wax is $3,5 according to the conditions of DDU.

I can also provide the beekeeping equipment, for example, suits, smokers,
masks, etc.

I would like to work only with the european countries, so if you were
interested in my propositions, please, let me know.

Regards,
Sergey.

itl191@online.kharkov.ua








From sd20@earthlink.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:50 EST 1999
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From: sd20@earthlink.net (Del Stanton)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: California Bee Problem Thanks for the Help
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 01:53:57 GMT
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I had a hive in Burbank, California on a 50 ft by 150 ft city lot.
They did fine and made the best honey I have ever eaten.  I understand
that bees will forage up to three miles from the hive, and a circle of
3 mile radius included the Hollywood Hills ( where the "Hollywood"
sign resides) and the Verdugo Hills.  I suspect that those two
undeveloped areas provided most of the nectar.  The honey was dark -
with a rich, complex flavor, like buckwheat or Eucalyptus honey but
much better.  

I never had a problem being stung unless I was working with the hive.


This was long before the mite problem.

Del Stanton  sd20@earthlink.net

On Thu, 11 Mar 1999 15:34:42 GMT, hothouserose@my-dejanews.com wrote:

>Thank you for all your help. I think my back yard is to small for a hive, so
>I am going to try some of the baiting techniques for now. I will be buying
>property soon in the Sacramento Area and it sounds like a hobby worth a look
>see. Thanks again.
>
>Hothouse Rose
>
>-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
>http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    




From jimowen@swbell.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:51 EST 1999
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I just checked some hives in an outer yard (2 dead).  I had checked them
a couple of weeks ago, they had some feed, and were busily bringing in
more (I thought).  I know better than to allow them to die, but I have
to re-learn it every couple of years.

Moral:  When in doubt, FEED 'em.  When not in doubt, Feed 'em anyway!

Later, Jim (Dallas)

Bill Greenrose wrote:
> 
> greetings, all.
> 
> well, the weird weather this winter has caught up to me.  i went out
> this afternoon to add a couple of beepro/sugar syrup patties to my
> hives, and i found the clusters on top of the uppermost frames in both
> hives.  and one of them is 3 deeps high!  i'm really glad i decided to
> add the patties today.  both clusters looked healthy, but they couldn't
> have been far from starvation.  i'm out of sugar, but i plan to start
> feeding each colony tomorrow via rapid feeders above the center holes in
> the inner covers.  since i still have a foot of snow on the ground,
> another winter storm on the way, and at least a month until spring hits,
> i figure i'll go with a 2:1 ratio for now.  and keep giving them
> patties, if they'll take them.
> 
> any advice or comments?
> 
> bill
> 
> p.s. hungry bees are mean!  at first i thought i'd go out without a
> veil.  glad i put one on, because they were NOT happy to see me [and i
> didn't bring my smoker].  didn't think to check my outer garments before
> heading back in [sloppy beekeeping practice], and i ended up with a half
> dozen bees at the dining room window.  made good meals for my
> carnivorous plants.
> 
> ##########################################
> 
> don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player
> 
> bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
> greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
> http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397


From allend@internode.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:51 EST 1999
Article: 16251 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Allen Dick 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: The Very Best Way to Read the Archives
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 05:51:24 GMT
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> Cool! For someone without a good newsfeed from their ISP, this sounds like
> the best way. However, if you have a good ISP that recognizes the value of
> a good Usenet feed, then using a good newsreader can do all all of Allen's
> above, and also allow you to be freedom to browse the web.

I'm not clear on this, Adam.  I used to exclusively use rn, then trn, then
tin on an HP at Calgary unix Users Group for reading news -- still do use tin
occasionally, and did not ever have access to a comprehensive searchable
USENET archive using it.  Granted it was -- still is -- a fine way to read
*current* news, but once the news expired, it is gone.	Am I missing
something?  I just went to CUUG, logged in and fired up all three newsreaders
and checked and still don't see the features that are available on DejaNews. 
(I'd have replied to you using trn, except your  article has not arrived
there yet).

> If you do UNIX or LINUX or any other *X, the X Windowed newsreaders are
> very nice, of course free and extremely powerful. I use TRN in a LINUX
> environment and I'm always amazed at how much this beautiful free program
> does--the articles that are archived at metalab are done so using TRN.

Never got into X windows, or the other unix GUIs, not sure what metalab is,
but the one I found did not have sci.agriculture.beekeeping articles archived
that I could find. Maybe you could explain?

Allen

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
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From chris@mail.sunlink.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:52 EST 1999
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Advice Requested

I have a hive wintered in 2 deeps just started with this past spring. I live
in Pennsylvania. I believe I should start supering in April when 1 st
Dandelions come out but I need to do Apistan and Terramycin before. Bees are
still clustering here temps around upper 30's to low 40's how do I determine
how many strips whewre to put them and when...now?? Help with early
medications would be appreciated It's my first spring with an overwintered
colony.

please respond on list or to varroa@hotmail.com






From hk1beeman@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:52 EST 1999
Article: 16253 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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> I'm surprised Kevin hasn't
>stepped in with a suggestion or two - I hear he's got a '

Gentlemans and ladies I AM HERE !!!

Please forgive my un attendance as of late but my wife had surgery an i been
having the hell worried outa me waitin on her !

Please feel free to save this as a FAQ cause its gonna be a good en.
******************************************************

How To Remove Bees From Houses and Such By Big Johnson

 The question will arise from time ta time when some hep'les folk will call ya
with a hive a bees in a wall or over hang or even God help ya between the
floors of a house.
 Speakin from experiance I'll tell ya this, first off theres a few questions ya
wanna ask

1. How long they been there ?
2. Have ya'll done anything ta git rid a em before ? 
3. Where are they at ?
4. How High up is it ?

Ya git the idea ?

 Now get ya a hive removal kit together
You'll need plastic, hammers. nails, caulking, drill, jig saw, circular saw,
recip saw, putty knife, flash light, bee vac, extension cord.
bee cages,sugar water spray 5 gal buckets with lids.
2 cans a RAID ( at least ) some a that expanding foam stuff etc..

Approch the situation with plenty a common sense, If'n its more than a one
person job don't start it without help. ( A beautiful 4-5 yr old colony
comprised of 7-10 lbs of comb and about 200,000 bees  IS NOT A ONE PERSON JOB
!!! )

I use Black and decker versa pack tools, ther are light and usually get the job
done.

start by drilling a few pilot holes into the wall, use a small bit bout a 1/4
will do .
Don't drill through vinyl or aluminum siding, you'll have to do that one from
the inside. On old wood siding drill away.

 Now once ya have found the extent of the colony ( wax and or honey on the bit
and bees lookin out the holes) you have a idea of how big.

Colonies are usually between the studs, they can be all the way across the wall
>from  stud to stud ( awesome sight ) or cross wise from inner wall to outer
wall.

Make your saw cut NO DEEPER THAT THE ACTUAL COVERING BOARD ITSELF You'll hit no
wires that way, and cut on the inside of the studs, this'll let ya put a 2x4
back in to nail these boards back up on.

Give em plenty a smoke !

Once the whole colony is exposed give em a few min to settle down. Then begin
vaccuming, Clean off one layer at the time and remove the wax as you go,
putting it into buckets or if its ok to use go ahead and have an assistant
string it into frames.

put ya some plastic down in the wall cavity to catch dripping honey,
Once th bees is all vacced finish cleaning up the mess, scrape the wall arreas
with a putty knife removing all wax and debris.

Move the whole thing away from thar now, set ya cage or cages in the shade,
spray em some sugar water, start cleaning up ya mess.

after bout a hour, go look at the colony site, are there a bunch a bees ? if so
vac em
 if not worth worrying over just nuke em
With your bees and equip way off, round the house or whatever, git up in that
wall area, soak the wood with raid, top and bottom, side and side.
Cut ya some 2x4 to fit along side the studs,  so you can nail ya boards back
up, git that done
 then seal all cracks with a good latex caulk and if'n the crack is too bid
shoot ya some a that foam stuff in er.

Now inside jobs is bout the same ya just cutting sheet rock, and be careful an
ya can put it back up the same way fillin the crack wit a lil spackling.

Floors is the same...

Look here now.. WOOD CARRYS SOUND
always drill ya a pilot hole afore ya go cuttin a wall off, them bees might
sound close but theys 3 ft away !!!!

Always Always let ya customer know that you'll make as little damage as
possible and fix what ya can. Tell em if they want a carpenter there when ya
get through thats up to them.

Ther Raid will kill any that get back in and i Haven't had any repete jobs yet,
After scraping the walls and spraying it seems to be permanent if sealed
correctly.

CINDER BLOCK WALLS :
Let me tell ya, leave em alone if ya possibly can. Ya ain't gonna get no wax
out, ya ain't gonna get near all the bees out even using BEE _ GO sprayed down
there with a hose.

Tell em to call Orkin ( Or better yet your buddy that calls you when he gets a
bee call )
These calls will get you hurt, cost you money and unless you're a mason, a roof
tar man and have a hell of a extension ladder you may even get sued !!

Well thats bout it Ya'll as usuall i'll be glad ta help any a yall with this,
mail me or post it and i'll try ta answer it. Theres a write up bout like this
that comes with the bee vac and what i've shared here is bout what i tell folks
that call.


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.





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> > Can anyone suggest what the best way to get started is?
> > I live North East Scotland, where can I find out about suppliers,
> > books web sites etc.

The answer to this perennial question is to find some local beekeepers,
befriend them, and ask them to help you to get set up.  If you make a point to
meet several, you will find one whom you like best, and who appreciates your
interest.

A good place to start is you local government agriculture office, and you
phone book or the store shelf in your local store: honey section.  A
commercial beekeeper will not always be the best choice, but will likely know
everyone around and guide you to someone suitable.  If you have time to
spare, working for a commercial operator can work, but many are pretty busy
and less interested in the romantic aspect and chatting than getting the job
done. There are some notable exceptions to this rule, however :)

I know there are some big bee outfits in Scotland.  Murray McGregor is one
owner I know.  I'll email you his address privately.

Allen

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


From hk1beeman@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:53 EST 1999
Article: 16255 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Good Bye Andy
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It was with sincere grief that we learned of Andy's death.
I just want to say Thankyou to him and his crowd. He helped me a lot and was
always there with a answer that i couldn't find. I'll Miss ya Ol man !

Kevin, Melanie and Nancy Johnson
Lillington NC

May God Grant Peace To Andy and all who Loved him.


From computer2@uswest.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:54 EST 1999
Article: 16256 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Ed 
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I am looking to purchase a commercially made solar-beewax
melter, in good condition. Please email me your price, I
live in Minnesota.

Thanks,

Ed



From nopcme@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:55 EST 1999
Article: 16257 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Subject: Splitting
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I need advice on splitting.  After splitting, is it necessary to move one of
the splits in order to prevent drifting?  If not, what is the best way to
minimize drifting back to the original hive?
Thanx,
Jim Pickett


From wkresge@wolfenet.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:55 EST 1999
Article: 16258 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Bill Kresge 
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Subject: Source for burlap
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:45:43 -0800
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I've got a great source for burlap in the Seattle area. In fact they
would just love to find people to take sacks off their hands. If you are
looking for burlap for your smokers and are in the Northwest this would
be a good way to go. Send me an email and I will give you the
particulars.



From w8864@midwest.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:56 EST 1999
Article: 16259 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Bill" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: finding queens and colonys 4 sale ????
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:33:35 -0600
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is there a site that has a listing state by state of persons who sell queens
and colonys.  I am getting started this spring and trying to raise a colony.
thanx
bill




From dvisrael@earthlink.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:56 EST 1999
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From: workerbee 
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Subject: Re: Using Runoff Pond For Water Source
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Billy Y. Smart II wrote:
> 
> Group,
> 
> I am a beeginner and I plan to locate my first hives on the dam of a
> pond (1/3 acre) that is the perfect location
> for bees. It is open to the East and has plenty of trees to the West
> for evening shade. I plan to position the hive entrance so the bees
> would have a flight path over the water. However in my reading I have
> found reference that stagnant water is bad for bees in that it
> can cause nosema. The pond is charged by runoff and even though it
> never gets dry, the water level can drop to as low as 1ft in the late
> summer. The alternative would be to locate my apiary along a creek,
> but it is heavily wooded and I would be hard pressed to find a site
> that would provide morning sun. Flooding is also a concern.
> 
> Has anyone had a bad experience with using runoff ponds as a water
> source?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> --
> Billy Y. Smart II
> /* If the opinions expressed herein reflect those of the  */
> /*  Boeing Company, it would be entirely coincidental.    */
> /*   Remove the "NOSPAM" from the address to reply        */
> 
> 
I just attended a short course and was advised not to make the flight
parh over water because the reflection of uv rays can mess up the bees
flight recorder. Let me know your results please.

Workerbee



From beekpr@email.msn.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:57 EST 1999
Article: 16261 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: "Franklin  Humphrey" 
References: <19990312192018.26162.00000153@ng-ca1.aol.com>
Subject: Re: Division Board Feeder Floats ??
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 18:00:58 -0600
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Fill feeders and cover surface with wheat straw.  Best float I've found.

Frank Humphrey
beekpr@email.msn.com


MDRbees wrote in message <19990312192018.26162.00000153@ng-ca1.aol.com>...
>Does anyone have an idea or experience with an effective, cheap,simple, and
>easy float for division board feeders.
...Mike




From bill.greenrose@valley.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:57 EST 1999
Article: 16262 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Bill Greenrose 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to get bees out of a house???
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 21:36:51 -0500
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Hk1BeeMan wrote:

> > I'm surprised Kevin hasn't
> >stepped in with a suggestion or two - I hear he's got a '
>
> Gentlemans and ladies I AM HERE !!!
>
> Please forgive my un attendance as of late but my wife had surgery an i been
> having the hell worried outa me waitin on her !
>



greetings, kevin.

i had a nice, witty [well, half-witty] comment to make, but all i really want to
say is that i hope your wife is well on her way to a speedy, full recovery.

...and i hope she doesn't have to eat any of your grilled brood an' grits! [there,
i said it.]

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




From richwebb*nospam*@gte.net Wed Mar 24 11:49:58 EST 1999
Article: 16263 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Rich Webb 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping,firview@blarg.net
Subject: Soggy hive - ventilation problem
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 19:23:30 -0800
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   We just discovered that our hive has a serious ventilation problem.
Several frames of capped honey have mold growing on them.  Should we
remove these frames or just leave them in the hive so the bees can eat
the unaffected honey?  We looked in several beekeeping books and found
no mention of mold or mildew. Is this a common problem and is it harmful
to the bees?
   We are moving the hive to a sunnier spot in our garden.  What else
can
we do to improve ventilation in the hive?

Cindy Webb



From pollinator@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:49:59 EST 1999
Article: 16264 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: finding queens and colonys 4 sale ????
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From: "Bill" 

>is there a site that has a listing state by state of persons who sell queens
>and colonys.  I am getting started this spring and trying to raise a colony.

   That's a project we are considering tackling at www.pollinator.com  

   But for now the best bet is to get Bee Culture  (www.airoot.com), or
American Bee Journal (www.dadant.com) and read the ads.


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


From jaf@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk Wed Mar 24 11:49:59 EST 1999
Article: 16265 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: jaf@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk (JAF)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: beekeeping urls
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:06:54 GMT
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On Fri, 12 Mar 1999 13:12:03 GMT, jaf@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk (JAF)
wrote:

>E-mail me your beekeeping urls, and I'll add links to my upcoming web
>pages.  Include a one-sentence description.

The first of my pages are up, with some links.  There is more to come,
about swarms, and apis mellifera life cycle.  More links will be
welcomed...
-- 
jaf@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk
http://www.jaf.nildram.co.uk
Including the Only Genuine 'Terminus' Web Presence.
Beekeeping, and soon, a new quiz.


From allend@internode.net Wed Mar 24 11:50:00 EST 1999
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From: Allen Dick 
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Subject: Re: How to get bees out of a house???
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> Go to www.blossomland.com and order the Gettum Gone Spray! Use by
> spraying the entry area(s) and within 24-36 hours the bees will have
> tracked the chemical into the brood area and thus the hive will die! Then
> just clean out the area where the dead insects are found. Works on all
> type of flying - and nesting insects! Inside buildings, trees or in the
> ground! Can will do more that two applications!

Hmmmm.	Poison the hive?  Not a good idea.  When it dies, unless you get
there and clean it out immediately (unlikely), neigbouring bees will come
calling and take it home and bee killed too.  Who knows where the toxins will
wind up?

Do you want anything to do with this?  I don't.

Allen

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
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From silversail@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:50:00 EST 1999
Article: 16267 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: silversail@aol.com (Silversail)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Splitting beehives
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>Does anyone know how to split beehives properly

Well... properly is in the eye of the splitter... It also depends on what you
plan do do with the split... how many hives do you have... what condition do
you want to leave your parent hives in.

The way we used to split was really very simple and made for strong splits. 
Simply have your hive in two deeps,  make sure the top box has bees and brood
with eggs and then slap a top and bottom on it. This works well
but if you plan on making a lot of splits your splitting is affecting the
overall condition of way too many hives that could be producing more honey than
it will as a split.

Nowdays we select hives and start stimulating them with feed arounf the first
week of febuary (if your splitting a few hives that won't take long it is
better to start stimulating aroung the end of february) Also keep in mind this
is Southeast Texas weather I'm doing this in. Anyway this causes them to brood
up. When I make splits they are four frame splits. Two frames of honey/pollen
and t wo frames of brood...the rest of the box if filled with empty comb. Using
this method we can usually make three splits and leave the parent hive with
queen which when fed again will quickly build back up to the hive strength they
had previously. The important thing is down here is that ou have a laying queen
by April 1 or else you hive won't be strong enough to make a decent surplus off
of (which we consider to be 150 to 200lbs.)
While talking to someone else recentlyI found that they did the exact same
thing but they would make these four frame splits but instead of taking them
right away would stack them back on the hive as supers and come back the next
day and seperate them. Apparently during the night the bees will balance
themselves out between the supers to take care of the brood. then they come
back before daylight and make finish their splits. To me this seems like a
waste of time.. and daylight since I've never had a problem getting enough bees
into my splits.

I'm sure many there are man other ways to make splits but this is  my proper
way... And always remember to move your splits at least three miles or
more..preferably more.. away from the parent hive to prevent drifting back to
the parent


From b-m-karl@whidbey.net Wed Mar 24 11:50:01 EST 1999
Article: 16268 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Billy E. Karlinsey" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Feeding sugar syrup.
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:09:45 -0800
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I need the weight ratio of sugar to water or volume measure ratio to make a
light syrup to feed my bees to get some Fumidil-B into the bees. I've got a
couple of hives showing some Nosema. Also I want to stimulate brood raising.
My bees here on Whidbey Island Washington are still wearing their galoshes.

Bill

b-m-karl@whidbey.net







From hk1beeman@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:50:01 EST 1999
Article: 16269 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Soggy hive - ventilation problem
Lines: 15
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>We just discovered that our hive has a serious ventilation problem.
>Se

put a bottle cap under the back of the  top cover.

cut a slot in the end of the inner cover


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.





From mryan@vossnet.co.uk Wed Mar 24 11:50:02 EST 1999
Article: 16270 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: mryan 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Source for burlap
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 16:39:31 +0100
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Hi
What  is "burlap"?

Mike Ryan

UK Beekeeper



From seasholtzm@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:50:03 EST 1999
Article: 16271 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: seasholtzm@aol.com (SeasholtzM)
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Subject: Re: Nucs for sale
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Any way to arrange a  drop shipment or pickup in the pennsylvania area during a
shippment from either location???


From morfydd@my-dejanews.com Wed Mar 24 11:50:04 EST 1999
Article: 16272 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: morfydd@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Feeding sugar syrup.
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 23:36:01 GMT
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In article <922170836.244.63@news.remarQ.com>,
  "Billy E. Karlinsey"  wrote:
> I need the weight ratio of sugar to water or volume measure ratio to make a
> light syrup to feed my bees to get some Fumidil-B into the bees. I've got a
> couple of hives showing some Nosema. Also I want to stimulate brood raising.
> My bees here on Whidbey Island Washington are still wearing their galoshes.
>
> Bill
>
> b-m-karl@whidbey.net
> re feeding bees use 1 pint of water to 2 lbs of sugar.
then give two lots to each hive. if you need a slightly  weaker mixture
add another half pint of water.
>

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
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From morfydd@my-dejanews.com Wed Mar 24 11:50:04 EST 1999
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From: morfydd@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Splitting beehives
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 23:41:00 GMT
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:16273

In article <19990322213843.24919.00000144@ng99.aol.com>,
  silversail@aol.com (Silversail) wrote:
> >Does anyone know how to split beehives properly
>
> Well... properly is in the eye of the splitter... It also depends on what you
> plan do do with the split... how many hives do you have... what condition do
> you want to leave your parent hives in.
>
> The way we used to split was really very simple and made for strong splits.
> Simply have your hive in two deeps,  make sure the top box has bees and brood
> with eggs and then slap a top and bottom on it. This works well
> but if you plan on making a lot of splits your splitting is affecting the
> overall condition of way too many hives that could be producing more honey
than
> it will as a split.
>
> Nowdays we select hives and start stimulating them with feed arounf the first
> week of febuary (if your splitting a few hives that won't take long it is
> better to start stimulating aroung the end of february) Also keep in mind this
> is Southeast Texas weather I'm doing this in. Anyway this causes them to brood
> up. When I make splits they are four frame splits. Two frames of honey/pollen
> and t wo frames of brood...the rest of the box if filled with empty comb.
Using
> this method we can usually make three splits and leave the parent hive with
> queen which when fed again will quickly build back up to the hive strength
they
> had previously. The important thing is down here is that ou have a laying
queen
> by April 1 or else you hive won't be strong enough to make a decent surplus
off
> of (which we consider to be 150 to 200lbs.)
> While talking to someone else recentlyI found that they did the exact same
> thing but they would make these four frame splits but instead of taking them
> right away would stack them back on the hive as supers and come back the next
> day and seperate them. Apparently during the night the bees will balance
> themselves out between the supers to take care of the brood. then they come
> back before daylight and make finish their splits. To me this seems like a
> waste of time.. and daylight since I've never had a problem getting enough
bees
> into my splits.
>
> I'm sure many there are man other ways to make splits but this is  my proper
> way... And always remember to move your splits at least three miles or
> more..preferably more.. away from the parent hive to prevent drifting back to
> the parent
>
If you are going to split up a colony into nucleus hives dont forget to have
queens or queen cells available. most nuclues hives dont make up strong queens
on their own.

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


From jmitc1014@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:50:05 EST 1999
Article: 16274 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: reading read messages
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Help! I was just starting to read a message on my Apple when the computer
crashed. Now when I come back to the board, it does not list the message I was
reading. How do I make my computer show me messages that I have previously
viewed on this board. There is no toggle for that here


From hk1beeman@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:50:05 EST 1999
Article: 16275 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Soggy hive - ventilation problem
Lines: 21
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>How big of a slot, and will the bees use it as a second entrance/exit?
>

oh bout the width of 2 bees and the height of one, ther'll use it a bit, an if
ya dont want it just slide the top cover back tight.
some inner covers come with the slot already cut in it.

>Or will they setup guard bees to
>protect that entrance?
>

they'll guard it


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.





From adameden@ipa.net Wed Mar 24 11:50:06 EST 1999
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From: "R & S Adams" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: ozark bee removal
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 18:48:30 -0600
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I have come across a feral hive that has been the wall of a house for 5-6
yrs.  The house is a cape cod and the hive is in the second story(attic)
wall--gable end.  The bees are using a crack between the house and the stone
chimney ( about 4 ft. long) as a entrance.  As I reside in southwest
Missouri aka "the ozark triangle",  a local beekeeper has told me to do
this.   First,  reduce the entrance to 5-6 inches.  Now take a three liter
plastic soda pop bottle, and cut it in half- keeping the bottleneck part.
Next, unscrew the lid(discard the lid), cut two pieces of nylon screen and
make a loose  flap, duct tape it on  where the lid screws on. So the bees
will have to sort of pass through a funnel type situation with a one way
door on it.  This "bottleneck" is duck  taped over the 5-6 inch entrance.
O.K.  The modified exit/entrance from the house is going to  be aimed right
on to the entrance of a  small (8 frame) hive , which is hanging from the
chimney.  Inside the hive is a frame of eggs, brood, and house bees.  He
assured me the bees coming out would take up residence in the hive with the
brood and that I would  eventually get all the bees out of the wall and in
most cases the queen would walk out too.  He has acquired bees to fill 4
hives from one large colony this way.   I even have the notion to not seal
up the crack very well when I'm done,  so I can collect them again-if it
works.  What do ya'll think?.   Any and all advice listened to carefully,
but not necessarily believed, until I see it work myself.  Maybe I'm getting
the hang of "The Show-me State".    Thanks in advance.    R.P. Adams




From allend@internode.net Wed Mar 24 11:50:07 EST 1999
Article: 16277 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Allen Dick 
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Subject: Re: Soggy hive - ventilation problem
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> How big of a slot, and will the bees use it as a second entrance/exit?

Consider that by lifting the lid a bit - 1/8", say with matchsticks or a
bottle cap, that it creates an opening of 9 square inches.  That's a huge
hole and it allows a lot of air movement.  This can be a big problem in
northern areas of the country.

Most places a notch in the inner cover or an auger hole is sufficient.

We use a 1" auger hole in each brood chamber.

> Should I put screen over the center hole of the inner cover to prevent
> anything from getting into the hive?  Or will they setup guard bees to
> protect that entrance?

No need to protect a small opening.  Large cracks can be problematic
occasionally.

Allen Dick
http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
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From fltdeck1NO SPAM@ix.netcom.com Wed Mar 24 11:50:07 EST 1999
Article: 16278 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: NOSPAMfltdeck1@ix.netcom.com (fltdeck1)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to get bees out of a house??? - only 1 proper way to remove
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For some reason I can't find the orginal to this post.  Is the guy
still here?  Where are the bees?  If they are in Colorado, I will
remove them free of charge - provided they are in a portion of the
house which I can dismantle without liability.

Pioson is NOT a long term solution.  Nearly very hive I pulled out of
buildings (walls, ceilings, roofs, etc) had a previous hive or two
within a foot of the current hive.  Hives will come & go on their own
(mites) and poison only kills them for that season.  It's a sickening
sight to see bees get sick from left-over poison from the year
before...and try to get a beekeeper to help with sick bees.

The only proper way to assure bees will stay out of your house is to
remove the bees (bee vacuum or whatever manual means) and fill the
space with insulation.  

For those beekeepers whom are interested in removing feral hives from
buildings, trees, etc and need a helping hand - feel free to e-mail me
and I'll send you my old posts on 'how-to' make the job super easy.  I
can show you ways to start out that hive by saving their comb using
empty Langstroth frames.

As well, I'll soon be posting my bee-vacuum plans at Barry Birkey's
bee site ( http://www.birkey.com/BLB/Beekeeping/index.html ).

I just pulled out my first hive of the season last sunday.  I was able
to salvage all the brood and all the bees within a few hours.

Matthew Westall - Castle Rock, CO


From hk1beeman@aol.com Wed Mar 24 11:50:08 EST 1999
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>Burlap, "Tow Sack"... and to quote 

>ute, flax, or hemp fibers and use

>(No, you can't roll it and smoke it)
>

speak fer ya self !!!!!!!
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.





From fltdeck1NO SPAM@ix.netcom.com Wed Mar 24 11:50:08 EST 1999
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From: NOSPAMfltdeck1@ix.netcom.com (fltdeck1)
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Subject: Re: ozark bee removal
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Hi RP,

I've tried similar methods without success but several beekeepers
claim it works (funnel method).  
owever, if it does work, the bees won't rob out your hive overnight.
You'll likely be waiting a long time - perhaps 4 to 6 weeks and don't
expect the queen to leave.   As long as she has brood, she'll stick
with her hive.  I've never heard of a queen leaving using this method.
Anyone else?

Also, make sure your new hive entrance is within a few inches from the
end of the cone or you'll get a 'beard' of lost bees.  

Matthew Westall in Castle Rock, CO


On Tue, 23 Mar 1999 18:48:30 -0600, "R & S Adams" 
wrote:

>I have come across a feral hive that has been the wall of a house for 5-6
>yrs.  The house is a cape cod and the hive is in the second story(attic)
>wall--gable end.  The bees are using a crack between the house and the stone
>chimney ( about 4 ft. long) as a entrance.  As I reside in southwest
>Missouri aka "the ozark triangle",  a local beekeeper has told me to do
>this.   First,  reduce the entrance to 5-6 inches.  Now take a three liter
>plastic soda pop bottle, and cut it in half- keeping the bottleneck part.
>Next, unscrew the lid(discard the lid), cut two pieces of nylon screen and
>make a loose  flap, duct tape it on  where the lid screws on. So the bees
>will have to sort of pass through a funnel type situation with a one way
>door on it.  This "bottleneck" is duck  taped over the 5-6 inch entrance.
>O.K.  The modified exit/entrance from the house is going to  be aimed right
>on to the entrance of a  small (8 frame) hive , which is hanging from the
>chimney.  Inside the hive is a frame of eggs, brood, and house bees.  He
>assured me the bees coming out would take up residence in the hive with the
>brood and that I would  eventually get all the bees out of the wall and in
>most cases the queen would walk out too.  He has acquired bees to fill 4
>hives from one large colony this way.   I even have the notion to not seal
>up the crack very well when I'm done,  so I can collect them again-if it
>works.  What do ya'll think?.   Any and all advice listened to carefully,
>but not necessarily believed, until I see it work myself.  Maybe I'm getting
>the hang of "The Show-me State".    Thanks in advance.    R.P. Adams
>
>



From darrell@cybrtyme.com Mon Mar 29 15:13:18 EST 1999
Article: 16284 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: "Darrell Laney" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <19077-36F99799-27@newsd-291.iap.bryant.webtv.net>
Subject: Re: BeeBee tree seeds...for a donation.
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 01:42:26 -0600
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What is the scientific name of the BeeBee tree?






From hk1beeman@aol.com Mon Mar 29 15:13:19 EST 1999
Article: 16285 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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>unhappy
>about bee droppings on their cars, especially during spring cleansing
>flights.  Many times I have read cases wh

If i'm not mistaken won't that stuff rot off newly painted paint ?

Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.





From BlancoB@Tech-center.com Mon Mar 29 15:13:20 EST 1999
Article: 16286 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Reply-To: "Beeginer" 
From: "Beeginer" 
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Subject: Re: Two Questions from a Beginner...
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What are the international colors? and where can I find them listed?

> I use (cheap) fingernail polish (has a built-in applicator brush).  The
> only problem I've noticed is that it doesn't come in the "international"
> colors.  For my limited number of hives, this hasn't been a problem.





From mryan@vossnet.co.uk Mon Mar 29 15:13:20 EST 1999
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From: mryan 
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Subject: Re: Beehive dimensions
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Hi
The British Beekeeper Association do plans for hives .I myself  have one
for
"Modified  National Hive" but i am certain that they do plan for
Langstroth, Dadent,Smith,
Commercial.an E-mail to "claire@backlane.demon.co.uk".cost $2 or $3

mike ryan



From griffes@my-dejanews.com Mon Mar 29 15:13:21 EST 1999
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In article ,
  "Beeginer"  wrote:
> What are the international colors? and where can I find them listed?
>
> > I use (cheap) fingernail polish (has a built-in applicator brush).  The
> > only problem I've noticed is that it doesn't come in the "international"
> > colors.  For my limited number of hives, this hasn't been a problem.

the "international colors" are to be found (among others) in Steve Taber's
book "Breeding Super Bees" - my copy is however on semi-permanent loan to a
beekeeper in Europe and the code was not listed in the index of the other
source I was thinking it might be in so someone else is going to have to list
it along with a reference

Now you might ponder for a moment on why someone that coordinates a bee
breeding cooperative with 14 Cooperators doesn't know the "international
colors" by heart (white, yellow, red, green, blue - but are they in correct
order??).  Why might that be??	Perhaps because here in the land of the free
and the home of the brave it don't get much "real world" use.  Why might that
be?? Perhaps because good beekeeping practices here advocate yearly or at the
least once every two years requeening.	That being the case you only need two
colors max and often a particular queen rearer sends out EVERY queen marked
with whatever their favorite color is for marking anyway - same color every
year.  And while we use more like 6 or sometimes more colors here it has
mostly to do with keeping track of progeny of test queens FAR more than how
old a given queen is - you use records for the latter IF the queen is
marked/clipped.

Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
Onsted, MI
USA
http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

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From hk1beeman@aol.com Mon Mar 29 15:13:21 EST 1999
Article: 16289 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
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Subject: Re: Hey you swarm catchers...
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>Got a hive in a chimney.  Any removal suggestions, (without a vac,,sorry
>Johnson),,,??
>
>The home owner just bought the house and doesn't have all the info as to
>how long they've been there etc...
>

thats a tough one ya'll, real tough.

1. Is it an exterior chimney ?
2. Is the chimney construction sound ? ( very old house or say 20-40 yrs )
3. Does the home owner ever plan on using the chimney for heating etc..?
4. are the house plans availiable ? ( is it a straight old style chimney or are
they double flue wit brick surround )
5. Is there a dampner or is it an open chimney ?

Without dissambling the chimney, there is just about no way to remove these
bees without killing them.
 There is only one way that i know of to do it cleanly, it will take a whole
season and in the end will still be messy.
  1. seal the chimney from the top and bottom, Air tight.
 2. spray about 3 cans of ether ( starting fluid ) it may take more into the
chimney, seal up tight !!!!

3. NOTE This will kill the bees, but also not poison the honey allowing the
contents to be robbed out.

4. after about 4 hours, unseal the chimney, if not dead yet, put in a lot more
ether and go again
 5. If all dead, using a regular vac clean up the dead bees from the fire
place, there will be a hell of a lot of em !!!!!!
6. Get a good look up the chimney, how much are ya talkin ?

You can see where this is heading.....
Write me back with answers to the questions  or we'll be here all night 

And yes folks Big Johnson Has been here Done this one Too !!!
 Hope you know a chimney sweep.





Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.





From jkimbro@midtown.net Mon Mar 29 15:13:22 EST 1999
Article: 16290 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: JKimbro 
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Subject: Hey you swarm catchers...
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I got a call today,,,and I thought I'd run it by some of you superstars
first.

Got a hive in a chimney.  Any removal suggestions, (without a vac,,sorry
Johnson),,,??

The home owner just bought the house and doesn't have all the info as to
how long they've been there etc...



From harrisonrw@aol.com Mon Mar 29 15:13:23 EST 1999
Article: 16291 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: harrisonrw@aol.com (HarrisonRW)
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Subject: Re: Hey you swarm catchers...
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"HIVE IN A CHIMNEY"

You can remove the bees from the chimney however it will be a lot of work. I
have done four chimney removals (these were standard fireplace chimneys) and
they are hard work, and that was with using a bee vac. If I were going to
remove the bees without a bee vac I would do the following.

The bee will be between three and four feet below the top of the chimney
(remember, there are exceptions to every rule)
. 
Close the fireplace damper if it has one. Use a sheet of plastic and duct tape
and cover the fireplace opening  inside the house.

Work from the top of the chimney. You will have to build a scaffold, work off a
ladder or if you are lucky you can stand on the roof and work from there.

Take a small  garden claw (cultivator) and a sheet  rock knife and duct tape
each one to the end of a wooden pole.

Smoke the bees.

Using the garden claw hook it into the frist piece of honeycomb and then cut it
away from the chimney sides using the sheetrock knife (the first piece is the
hardest to get out because you don't have any room to move the garden claw).
Keep doing this unitl all the comb is out.

Put the comb without brood in pails.

Cut the comb with brood in it to fit the empty frames of a super (a nuc box
would work). Hold the comb in the frames with elastic bands.

Set up the hive (nuc) on a stand with the entrance at  the top of the chimeny
and leave it there for a few days for the bee to get accustomed to the new
location then remove. 

Have the homeowner have the chimney cleaned by a chimney sweep.

If you do this for free or very little mone you are CRAZY. The least I have
charged for a chimney removal is $300.00. Like I said it will involve a lot of
time and work.

If you have any further questions drop me a e--mail.

Regards,
Ralph Harrison
Western Connecticut Beekeepers Association
Milford, CT

,




From pollinator@aol.com Mon Mar 29 15:13:23 EST 1999
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: AFB and Oxytet-25
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From: fallon@hotmail.com (Martin Fallon)

>Here in Ontario, Canada it is recommended to feed bees Oxytet 25 in
>the spring to prevent AFB.  Does anyone have any information on
>Oxytet?  Can I add this to the syrup I feed them?  
>
>Hope someone can help.

   It breaks down fairly rapidly in syrup. It is better to use it as a dust,
with powdered sugar.

   It is used for calves and hogs, so most farm stores have it. The trade name
is Terramycin and it comes in yellow foil packages. The farm store that sells
it may not provide the label, unless you ask, so ask.

   The directions for use with bees are on the label.


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


From hk1beeman@aol.com Mon Mar 29 15:13:24 EST 1999
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Subject: Re: About to start a hive.
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> clover cause it
>is a nitrogen fixing plant and the soil here is a bit alkali.
>

buckwheat is awesome also, blooms in 30 days, blooms for 30 days reproduces its
seed very well, by the time it dries out in say 30 more days you just disk
lightly and get a twice size crop for free !!


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.





From bobpursley@aol.com Mon Mar 29 15:13:25 EST 1999
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From: bobpursley@aol.com (BobPursley)
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Subject: Re: Spring Mgmt.
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>Is it normal to have numerous drone cells now and if
>not what can I do to remedy the situation? Bees seem to be very strong

In the south, all of us have drones at this time, swarming season is just three
weeks away.


From daffydou@bellsouth.net Mon Mar 29 15:13:25 EST 1999
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Adam Finkelstein wrote:

> In article <7cpvos$pq9$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com>,
> Allen Dick   wrote:
> >I use DejaNews to read sci.agriculture.beekeeping for several simple reasons:
> >
> >1.  The articles are right up-to-date.  Other newsservers seem to have a great
> >deal of 'net lag.
> >
> >2.  If I want to research any topic, I can just click on 'search' at the top
> >of the page and all the articles ever posted on the topics I select are
> >mmediately available in a clickable list.  I can even choose threads from the
> >archives.
> >
> >3. There is a power search that winnows out the chaff and leaves the exact
> >item I want.
> >
> >4. It's free.
>
> Cool! For someone without a good newsfeed from their ISP, this sounds like
> the best way. However, if you have a good ISP that recognizes the value of
> a good Usenet feed, then using a good newsreader can do all all of Allen's
> above, and also allow you to be freedom to browse the web.
>
> If you do UNIX or LINUX or any other *X, the X Windowed newsreaders are
> very nice, of course free and extremely powerful. I use TRN in a LINUX
> environment and I'm always amazed at how much this beautiful free program
> does--the articles that are archived at metalab are done so using TRN.
>
> Adam
> --
> Adam Finkelstein
> adamf@vt.edu
> http://metalab.unc.edu/bees/adamf





From adameden@ipa.net Mon Mar 29 15:13:26 EST 1999
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From: "R & S Adams" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Inner cover dimensions
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 19:10:05 -0600
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We need to make a few and wondered if anyone has the proper dimensions.  Is
a raised edge necesssary and does the center hole have to be a certain size?
Thanks

S. Adams




From gwest7t@rectec.net Mon Mar 29 15:13:26 EST 1999
Article: 16297 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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http://www.birkey.com/BLB/Beekeeping/index.html

is a great site for what you want..

R & S Adams wrote:

> We need to make a few and wondered if anyone has the proper dimensions.  Is
> a raised edge necesssary and does the center hole have to be a certain size?
> Thanks
>
> S. Adams



From beeman@NOSPAMkingston.net Mon Mar 29 15:13:27 EST 1999
Article: 16298 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Kent Stienburg 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: electric embedding tool
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 22:17:48 -0800
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Hi All,
Does anyone use an electric embedding tool for your frames.  I'm tired
of using the brass wheel type and would like to make one.  I'm assuming
that a small transformer is used.  I need to know the VA.  I made a
triac controlled circuit but it didn' work well with a load the was such
a low ohm. Thanks
-- 
Kent Stienburg
Remove NOSPAM to reply.


From allend@internode.net Mon Mar 29 15:13:27 EST 1999
Article: 16299 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Allen Dick 
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Subject: Re: Splitting beehives
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> Does anyone know how to split beehives properly

There are a number of methods described at my site, below.

Allen Dick
http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


From schwaller@Schwaller.demon.co.uk Mon Mar 29 15:13:28 EST 1999
Article: 16300 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Ernie 
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Subject: Re: bugger bit me
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In article <36F4620D.444E@saltspring.com>, stephen ball
 writes
>After a few sucessful seasons and many bites I believed i was becoming
>tolerant of stings,no reactions.Apon spring investigation of two new
>hives I got the inevitable bee bite.This time however I have sweeling
>and pain.Can a different group of bees have a different venom,although
>all are Italians?
> Besides anti histamines are there other treatments?Will I build a
>tolerance to the venom?Thanks in advance
As a matter of interest It is interestng to note the by chewing bee
honey come it helps both easing bee stings and particularily hay fever 
Just you try it it may ease your problem probably not cure it. This is
an old English remedy maybe just an old wives tale but one never knows!
Ernie
-- 
Ernie


From petera@reigate.demon.co.uk Mon Mar 29 15:13:28 EST 1999
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From: Peter Ashley 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Old honey for new bees
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 12:10:03 +0100
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In article <36FD4BCF.A4E2F945@kusd.edu>, Tim Fulton 
writes
>Just a couple of questions from a new guy...
>First, late last fall I requeened a vary productive hive with a new
>queen.  Destroyed the old one and added the now one per instructions. 
>All appeared to be well, but on a warm day in January I found an
>abnormal amount of bees dead in the snow.  Little activity in February
>and in March I opened the hive an found movement, but didn't want to go
>too far into the hive.  Just opened the hive up and they are dead. 
>Small groups of bees scattered about the hive, lots of honey left. very
>few veroa on bottom board.  Did the new queen not take? or what do you
>think.  Next, I have three packages of bees ordered for April and want
>to start right.  Can I use the left over frames of honey and pollen for
>them, or should I start new with sugar syrup, yeast and soy flour?  
>What do ya' think?
> 
> 
>
Tim
I would have thought that to feed Bees on honey from another colony was
a little risky in that you could transfer all manner of diseases such as
AFB, EFB, Nosema, Acarine and others!
Here in SE England we always feed with sugar syrup on new colonies,
especially Swarms. This also assists in the Bees to produce more wax for
comb building. It is said that bees consume 10lbs (5Kg) of feed to
produce 1lb (500gr) of wax.

I have produced a web site for the Surrey Beekeepers Association
(Reigate Division) - www.reigate.demon.co.uk  - It is planned to have
more pages and links in the near future.

Pete

-- 
Peter Ashley


From uhogerli@deletetupphysiol1.bp.dal.ca Mon Mar 29 15:13:29 EST 1999
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From: Ulli Hoger 
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Subject: Re: U.K. vs. U.S Frames
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"bill_daniels@bellsouth.net" wrote:
> 
> I am a new beekeeper.  I've noticed a couple of pictures of open U.K.
> hives and have seen small "clip-like" devices at the ends of the frame
> top bars.  They look as though they might be some sort of spacing
> device.  Are the frames in the U.K. not of the self-spacing variety like
> I am used to seeing in the U.S.?  If this is so, what are the advantages
> and disadvantages of both styles?
> 
These clips are likely to be spacing devices.  Many beekeepers in Europe
use them in various styles to keep the distance between two frames. 
Reasons: 1/ The frames are easier to built, because they don't need the
shaped side parts and /2 ,more important, the contact surface of two
frames is much smaller.  The frames stick less to each other. Important
if you have a hive which loves to work with propolis.  

Regards

Ulli


From ljjwfret@olypen.com Mon Mar 29 15:13:29 EST 1999
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From: "J. Wayne Fowler" 
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Bill Kresge wrote in message <36F6ABF7.6DF73F9B@wolfenet.com>...
>I've got a great source for burlap in the Seattle area. In fact they
>would just love to find people to take sacks off their hands. If you are
>looking for burlap for your smokers and are in the Northwest this would
>be a good way to go. Send me an email and I will give you the
>particulars.
>
>Hi Bill,
I am just getting started with my first hive and would be interested in you
source for burlap bags.  I live in Sequim, but do get to the Seattle area on
occasion.  I would appreciate any information that you could
share,,,,,,,Thanks,,,J. Wayne Fowler




From tdobbs@aug.edu Mon Mar 29 15:13:30 EST 1999
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Help,
I am to make a presentation to a group of 1st and 2nd graders on honey
bees and need photos. Can any one suggest a site that has various photos
of bees that I can print out for these kids?
Tim Dobbs



From Tom@tomsp8.demon.co.uk Tue Mar 30 06:33:37 EST 1999
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From: Tom Speight 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: U.K. vs. U.S Frames
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 19:39:13 +0100
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In article <36FFAF7F.B69CAD76@deletetupphysiol1.bp.dal.ca>, Ulli Hoger
 writes
>These clips are likely to be spacing devices.  Many beekeepers in Europe
>use them in various styles to keep the distance between two frames. 
Yes Ulli, they are spacers. Apart from making the frames easier and
therefore cheaper:-) to manufacture, the spacers come in two widths,
1.875 inches (47.5mm) and 1.4375inches (36.5mm).
Use the narrow spacers to get foundation drawn out, then reduce the
number of frames and use the wide spacers.
Makes them much easier to uncap too.
-- 
Tom S


From eahlsen@maine.rr.com Tue Mar 30 06:33:38 EST 1999
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http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee/
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Beekeeping/
There's a few pics here.  Links to others




From gwest7t@rectec.net Tue Mar 30 06:33:38 EST 1999
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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We use a 1 amp motorcycle battery charger that was bought at wal-mart. We set it
on the 6 volt setting and then go stright accross the wires on the frame. It is
pretty fast, It will melt the wax fast.
good luck
gw

Jim Owen wrote:

> Since I'm cheap (I mean frugal) by nature, I use an old 1 amp battery
> charger (12v).  Be sure your wires don't cross and short circuit (they heat
> and burn through quickly).  Presuming you run wires through all four holes
> starting at top and ending at bottom (four parallel lines)  I clamp one
> connector to one end and then manually hold the other connector to the other
> end, controlling the heat.  As the wire heats up, the wax turns translucent,
> and you can see where it is getting too hot.  Remove the connector and allow
> it to cool a bit, reapply to heat up.  (It ain't real fast, but it works
> well)  If it doesn't heat the wire fast enough try shorter circuits (touch
> to ends of each horizontal piece of wire)
>
> Just a guess, but around 2-3 amps at 12v should be really quick (maybe too
> quick?)
>
> You can always use a rheostat to tune it, if you really want it perfect.
>
> Later,
> Jim
>
> Kent Stienburg wrote:
>
> > Hi All,
> > Does anyone use an electric embedding tool for your frames.  I'm tired
> > of using the brass wheel type and would like to make one.  I'm assuming
> > that a small transformer is used.  I need to know the VA.  I made a
> > triac controlled circuit but it didn' work well with a load the was such
> > a low ohm. Thanks
> > --
> > Kent Stienburg
> > Remove NOSPAM to reply.



From thegriggs@bc.sympatico.ca Tue Mar 30 06:33:39 EST 1999
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Hi
I live in Chilliwack and I am purchasing a bee package and I expect it
to arrive on april 19.
I have some old frames with combs that arn't in too bad of shape.
However I only have 6 frames.
The others are just new foundation. Will there be a problem adding this
new package of bees to a hive like this? I was planning on putting the
drawn frames in the bottom super and a super with just foundation in the
top. Also, how much should I feed them and should they be medicated
right away? Thanks for your help.



From smiths828@sybercom.net Tue Mar 30 06:33:40 EST 1999
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From: "scott smith" 
Subject: bee questions
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Hello everybody!                                                           
                                              I  have a wild colony of
honey bees in a hollow tree. They cant be removed w/o destroying the tree .
the only reason to remove them is to hive them for easier management.I
would however like to capture any swarms that divide off. Are there any
ways to capture them(i.e.hive traps). This colony is about 5 years old,
would it be a good idea to medicate them along with my boxed hives or leave
them alone to fend for them selves .                                       
                                                                    
Thanks!



From griffes@my-dejanews.com Tue Mar 30 06:33:40 EST 1999
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From: griffes@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: New way to kill varroa ;-)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 03:24:45 GMT
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In article <4PXuALAcpz$2EwPs@Schwaller.demon.co.uk>,
  Ernie  wrote:
> In article <7d4kiu$k2k$1@ligarius.ultra.net>, Marc Andelman
>  writes
> >Douse bee hive with gasoline. Light.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Marc Andelman
> >
> >
> Bit drastic ayn't it!! Ernie
> --
> Ernie
>

Nahhh!! them V-mites gotta be killed at any cost now don't they Ernie?

But if you wanna reuse the comb ya might as well kill EVERYTHING in the hive
including all disease via using Gamma Irradation.  Of course they more than
just frown on ya irradiating honey - let alone bees. But if ya kill all the
bees then the mites will eventually die - if you burn 'em or irradiate 'em
the mites will die real quick.	Mark wants to "watch 'em burn" while I prefer
to "nuke 'em" but I am sure we both are open-minded enough to allow you to
come up with your own favored method of dealing with the blasted V-mites. 
;-)

Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


From bill.greenrose@valley.net Tue Mar 30 06:33:41 EST 1999
Article: 16311 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Bill Greenrose 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: 3 deep vs. 2 deeps: an early report
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 21:54:51 -0500
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greetings, all.

we finally had some decent weather last saturday here in new hampshire,
and i was able to open my hives and 1) add apistan strips and 2) reverse
the boxes.  i also started feeding them this past week with bee
pro/syrup patties and top feeders for syrup.  one hive has 2 deep brood
boxes and the other one has 3 deeps.  both colonies were in their
respective top boxes and both queens were found and were laying with
brood present [and there was much rejoicing].  however, the colony in
the 3 deep hive was easily twice the size of the one in the 2 deep
hive.  the cluster extended down from the top box well into the second
one, as compared to the 2 deep hive, which only had bees in the top
box.  while both colonies appeared healthy [lots of dead bees in the
bottom boxes, but the lower entrances were closed up, so housekeeping
would have been very difficult over the winter.  both hives were dry
throughout with no signs of mold.], the 3 deep hive clearly was much
more vigorous.  they had many more bees in flight, and they appeared to
be taking syrup better from their top feeder.  as i plan to take the 2
deep hive up to 3 this year, it will be interesting to see how they
compare next year.

btw, i didn't insulate these hives at all this year, just entrance
reducers with mouse guards over the lower entrances.  no wraps, nothing
in the dead space above the inner covers and i left the top entrances
open all winter.  all i did was clear the lower entrances, when snow
piled up around the hives.  i decided to try this minimalist approach
after reading an article in 'bee culture' last fall in which the author
argued against wrapping, etc., based upon, among other things, heat
transfer data.  there was an interesting thread here that some may
remember.  while this was a relatively mild winter, we still had a few
periods with temps well below zero at night [i recorded -17 in january]
and single digits during the day, so they didn't get off too easily.  as
i have said before, 2 hives do not constitute a statistically
significant sample, but then, they ARE 100% of my population.  ;)

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




From murray@denrosa.demon.co.uk Tue Mar 30 06:33:41 EST 1999
Article: 16312 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Murray McGregor 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: U.K. vs. U.S Frames
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 22:22:29 +0100
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In article <36FF7671.7F3AC717@bellsouth.net>,
"bill_daniels@bellsouth.net"  writes
>I am a new beekeeper.  I've noticed a couple of pictures of open U.K.
>hives and have seen small "clip-like" devices at the ends of the frame
>top bars.  They look as though they might be some sort of spacing
>device.  Are the frames in the U.K. not of the self-spacing variety like
>I am used to seeing in the U.S.?  If this is so, what are the advantages
>and disadvantages of both styles?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bill Daniels
>Collierville, Tennessee, USA (near Memphis)
>

I'm afraid that the UK is home to a wide range of non standard items, at
least in the international sense.

Although they are still made new, the type of frame you are describing,
known in the catalogues as DN1 or SN1, are an old fashioned item. They
require added spacers to set them the correct distance apart, and there
are also more than one pattern of spacer, plus they can be metal or
plastic. These frames also are usually fitted with a narrow top bar.

Self spacing frames, normally what we call Hoffman type, are most
frequently used today, although there is yet another variant, the Manley
pattern commonly used in shallow boxes.

In our opinion, and although we are mainly Hoffman users we do have some
of the old fashioned ones around, there are very few advantages to using
the old style. The self spacing types are generally easier to use, and
cause a lot less inconvenience at extracting time.

A further disadvantage of UK frames is their weakness. We are only
buying international standard frames today, usually from the USA. The
main difference is in the thickness (and thus strength) of the top bar
and especially the end lugs, which readily break in UK versions unless
very carefully handled when full. Even the UK version of a standard
Langstroth deep is not standard, as Plasticell foundation does not fit
in it without time consuming tinkering.

In the UK beekeeping is very largely a hobbyist activity, and each
person has their own preferences for a wide variety of reasons. One look
at a large UK appliance dealers catalogue such as Thornes will let you
see the variety of hive types and frame sizes in use. The main downside
to us of living in a country with a lot of non standardised equipment is
price. Equipment here is EXPENSIVE because of the short runs that the
manufacturers are forced into.

Stick to the standard stuff. If for no other reason than it being a lot
easier to 'move on' when you decide to call it a day, as it will be
compatible with most other equipment.

Kind regards
-- 
Murray McGregor


From hk1beeman@aol.com Thu Apr  1 08:45:54 EST 1999
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>wild colony of
>honey bees in a hollow tree. They cant be removed w/o destroying the tree .
>the only reason to remove them is to hive them for easier m

just cut a door in the tree
remove the bees, strap the door back in place paint over cracks wit tar, tree
fine, bees fine


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

Home of  " Big Johnson's Bee Vac " Distributed exclusively
by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm 1-800-beeswax.





From honeybs@radix.net Thu Apr  1 08:45:55 EST 1999
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From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: electric embedding tool
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gwest7t@rectec.net wrote:

>We use a 1 amp motorcycle battery charger that was bought at wal-mart. We set it
>on the 6 volt setting and then go stright accross the wires on the frame. It is
>pretty fast, It will melt the wax fast.
>good luck
>gw

I use the arc welder to embed the wires in the rite-cell
foundation!

Greg the beekeep




       //          Bee Just & Just Bee!        
  =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA    
       \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs

              



From glen@obp.agric.za Thu Apr  1 08:45:55 EST 1999
Article: 16315 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Glen van Niekerk 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Help:WAX
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 14:32:14 -0800
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Hello to all;

Does anybody have any plans or ideas for building a solar wax melting
device ?
Any comments welcome.

Thank you

Glen van Niekerk
South Africa










From postmaster@shadforth.u-net.com Thu Apr  1 08:45:56 EST 1999
Article: 16316 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: postmaster@shadforth.u-net.com (Alan Craig)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Question about B.J. Sherriff bee suit.
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On 30 Mar 1999 12:45:48 GMT, npatt@snet.net wrote:

>I just purchased a B.J. Sherrif "Apiararist" suit.  A couple of questions:
>
>Should I wear a hat under the veil?  I notice the material sits very close to the back of my neck and ears with out one.  
>Can they sting through the material easily?


I have had one for about three years and have never been stung through
it

Alan


From jimowen@swbell.net Thu Apr  1 08:45:57 EST 1999
Article: 16317 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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I know I glanced at an article on the Bee-Bee tree in the last year or so,
but can't remember the particulars of where/when.  Does anybody have any
specific information about Evodia Danielii?  I've searched the web and
several books, but can't locate more than very brief information and a
couple of photos.

Thanks,
Jim

Cherish Tietsworth wrote:

>     Montgomery County Beekeepers Association (MCBA) in Pennsylvaina is
> selling BeeBee Tree (Evodia danielli) seeds to help fund the Langstroth
> Bench Project.
>     A commerative bench was dedicated to the Father of Modern
> Beekeeping- Lorenzo Lorraine Langstroth in 1951 but has since deteriated
> to the point of needing to be replaced.  The Langstroth Bench is located
> in the Bee gardens at Morris Arboretum, Chestnut Hill, Philadelphia PA.
> MCBA had taken on the task of replacing the original bench.
>       Anyone can order BeeBee tree seeds for a donation.  Please send a
> SELF addressed STAMPED envelope with a DONATION to:
>      JOSEPH DUFFY SR.
>       309 CLIVEDEN AVENUE
>      GLENSIDE, PA 19038-3509.
>      Make Checks payable to "Langstroth Bench Project, MCBA"
>
>      The BeeBee tree is an excellent tree for nectar in July and August
> when little else is blooming.  The honeybees will actually cluster on
> the flowers.  Adult trees can grow 25' to 30' in height.
>      Thank you for helping!





From edwards.p@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk Thu Apr  1 08:45:57 EST 1999
Article: 16318 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Peter Edwards" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Question about B.J. Sherriff bee suit.
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 22:31:51 +0100
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Depends how much hair you have left!

I have used one for many years and do get stung occasionally on the forehead
through the mesh - but never through the material on top of my head or at
the back.

Worst fault is that the veil can blow back against your face if it is breezy
(and don't tell me that I shouldn't work bees when it's breezy!).




From jesse@wellman.reno.nv.us Thu Apr  1 08:45:58 EST 1999
Article: 16319 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: jesse@wellman.reno.nv.us (Jesse Wellman)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Wild Colony Status
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 02:40:10 GMT
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Hi,
	A friend who lives near an almond orchard in the cental valley
near marysville has a colony of dark bees(not italian)  living in the
walls of an abandoned out building.  My friend says that the bees have
been there continuously for 2 years.  Is it possible that this colony
is some how resistant to vm, and other parasites, or more likely that
several queens have been there over the 2 years, only my friend never
noticed the inbetween down time.  
	How many wild colonys remain, especially in cold pre/non
africanised areas?

Curious

Jesse
jesse@wellman.reno.nv.us


From gwest7t@rectec.net Thu Apr  1 08:45:59 EST 1999
Article: 16320 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: GW 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: New way to kill varroa ;-)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 20:42:24 -0600
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I have to ask a question: what is the difference between nuke'em, the mites and
microwaveing, the mites? I know that some insects are not affected by microwave.
thanks
gw

griffes@my-dejanews.com wrote:

> In article <4PXuALAcpz$2EwPs@Schwaller.demon.co.uk>,
>   Ernie  wrote:
> > In article <7d4kiu$k2k$1@ligarius.ultra.net>, Marc Andelman
> >  writes
> > >Douse bee hive with gasoline. Light.
> > >
> > >Regards,
> > >Marc Andelman
> > >
> > >
> > Bit drastic ayn't it!! Ernie
> > --
> > Ernie
> >
>
> Nahhh!! them V-mites gotta be killed at any cost now don't they Ernie?
>
> But if you wanna reuse the comb ya might as well kill EVERYTHING in the hive
> including all disease via using Gamma Irradation.  Of course they more than
> just frown on ya irradiating honey - let alone bees. But if ya kill all the
> bees then the mites will eventually die - if you burn 'em or irradiate 'em
> the mites will die real quick.  Mark wants to "watch 'em burn" while I prefer
> to "nuke 'em" but I am sure we both are open-minded enough to allow you to
> come up with your own favored method of dealing with the blasted V-mites.
> ;-)
>
> Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
>
> -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
> http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own



From beetools@aol.com Thu Apr  1 08:46:00 EST 1999
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Dear Glen:

You can find a complete set of plans for a solar melter at
http://members.aol.com/beetools/solar.htm

Ron Bennett
Luckiamute Bee


From honeybs@radix.net Thu Apr  1 08:46:00 EST 1999
Article: 16322 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping,alt.hobbies.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Hey you swarm catchers...
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 12:31:10 GMT
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JKimbro  wrote:

>I got a call today,,,and I thought I'd run it by some of you superstars
>first.

>Got a hive in a chimney.  Any removal suggestions, (without a vac,,sorry
>Johnson),,,??

>The home owner just bought the house and doesn't have all the info as to
>how long they've been there etc...

Probable one of the toughest removals I ever did was in a
chimney.  The hive filled up 8 feet in height and filled 15
5 gal buckets!  I vacumned 15 lbs of bees.  

The room was emptied of all furniture and the fireplace was
unsealed.  Copious amounts of smoke was pumped into the
fireplace.  The bees were vacumned from the top of the
chimney.  I have scrapers that attach to aluminim concrete
tool handles and they can be extended to any length.  A
large ss pan was placed in the fireplace and the combs
scraped from the top.  The contents from the pan were
constantly put into the buckets.  The fireplace was then
covered and a hive was brought in to finish the job.  They
licked the chinmney clean and I took them home.  I was
almost dead with exhaustion and didn't charge nearly enough
($350).

Yeah it's a tough one and if you don't have the tools then
don't attempt it.  But it can be done!  It should be worth
at least $500 - $800.

Greg the beekeep



       //          Bee Just & Just Bee!        
  =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA    
       \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs

              



From nunyara@zeta.org.au Thu Apr  1 08:46:01 EST 1999
Article: 16323 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Nunyara" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Extractor & Exhibition
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 19:46:05 +1100
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Q1.  Anyone got plans or proven ideas for a cheap, home made 1 or 2 frame
extractor? Hand operated is fine.

Q2.  When I finish building my 2 frame exhibition hive, what and when would
be the best way to split one of my existing 2 hives to start an exhibition
colony (each has a brood and 1 super) ?  Supers are now full of capped honey
and queen is strong. March in Australia is early autumn.

Swami.




From msimics@direct.ca Thu Apr  1 08:46:02 EST 1999
Article: 16324 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Michael Simics" 
Subject: Re: bee venom
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <36FC75BF.D706E9AD@xtra.co.nz>
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Hi,

Contact Apitronic Services at msimics@direct.ca -----
http://www.beevenom.com

Michael



yooncy  wrote in article
<36FC75BF.D706E9AD@xtra.co.nz>...
> Hello
> Is there anybody who has bevenom?
> Could you  tell me about  the quantity, quality,and price.
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 


From griffes@my-dejanews.com Thu Apr  1 08:46:02 EST 1999
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In article <19990327142014.23511.00001290@ng-ch1.aol.com>,
  pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator) wrote:
Regarding TSP (Terramycin Soluble Powder - comes in yellow foil packets)

>    It breaks down fairly rapidly in syrup. It is better to use it as a dust,
> with powdered sugar.


Ya know we always say that (me included) but is it completely true?  Or are
we just repeating a fairy tale we didn't quite understand properly when it
was told to us?  When you look on the label directions for other livestock TM
is used almost exclusively "dissolved in drinking water."  So if that is how
it is most commonly used why would it "break down rapidly in syrup?"  Does it
react poorly with certain sugars?  Gee, I thought I was learnt that the
carrier was sugar in TSP and that the TM with the rice carrier was toxic to
bees? (which is why you gotta use the one labeled FOR bees)  Perhaps TSP/TM
really is just photodegradable?  Perhaps it is just fine to feed it in syrup
IF you use a inside feeder (no sunlight exposure)?  Then again perhaps the
idea is to get them to "use it now" vs. store it away for later?

Anybody have hard evidence on this issue?  Where?  Can you post it?(with
references/links if possible)

Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
Onsted, MI
USA
http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


From gdavis@houst.sgi.com Thu Apr  1 08:46:03 EST 1999
Article: 16326 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: "Greg A. Davis" 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Beginner in Texas
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 22:19:50 -0600
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I'm going to get into beekeeping. I live in Austin County
Texas, Cat Spring. Are there any beekeepers that read this
group from my area?

Also, tell me where the best places are to order catalogs from
so I can learn as much as possible.

I'd like to get a book or 2 on the subject, any suggestions?

Thanks


From dbco@sk.sympatico.ca Thu Apr  1 08:46:03 EST 1999
Article: 16327 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Dean Strand 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: plastic foundation
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 20:59:18 -0600
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Has anyone any opinions (based on experience) as to the difference
between Permadent and Pierco foundation? I am wondering about 2 main
points.
1: Pierco is 1/8 inch narrower. Significant?
2: Permadent is about 10% more expensive where I am. Justifiably?
Thanks for any feedback.



From bill.greenrose@valley.net Thu Apr  1 08:46:04 EST 1999
Article: 16328 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Bill Greenrose 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Question about B.J. Sherriff bee suit.
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 21:32:19 -0500
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH, USA
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npatt@snet.net wrote:

> I just purchased a B.J. Sherrif "Apiararist" suit.  A couple of questions:
>
> Should I wear a hat under the veil?  I notice the material sits very close to the back of my neck and ears with out one.
> Can they sting through the material easily?
> I am using the suit mainly to collect yellowjackets and hornets and would hate to have my ears stung through the material.
>
> Any of your lessons from experience with this suit may save me some pain!
>
> Norman Patterson
> npatt@snet.net

greetings,

i've used a sherriff's full suit for 2 years and never been stung thru it.  and there have been times [like this past
weekend], when i had quite a few bees on me.  it has held up very well and is very comfortable [although it still gets hot in
it on a bright july day].

hope this helps,

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




From bill.greenrose@valley.net Thu Apr  1 08:46:05 EST 1999
Article: 16329 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Bill Greenrose 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Starting anew
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 21:24:07 -0500
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Jim Grigg wrote:

> Hi
> I live in Chilliwack and I am purchasing a bee package and I expect it
> to arrive on april 19.
> I have some old frames with combs that arn't in too bad of shape.
> However I only have 6 frames.
> The others are just new foundation. Will there be a problem adding this
> new package of bees to a hive like this? I was planning on putting the
> drawn frames in the bottom super and a super with just foundation in the
> top. Also, how much should I feed them and should they be medicated
> right away? Thanks for your help.

greetings,

i am far from an expert, so my comments come free of charge.  six frames of
drawn foundation is six more than a package gets that is started with a
brand new kit by most first-time beekeepers.  so, look at it as an
advantage, not a disadvantage, since your queen will be able to start laying
that much sooner.  as for feeding, feed 'em all they will take, which will
probably be a lot.  when they find better forage afield [hmmm.  forage
afield. i like the way that rolls off the tongue.] they will stop taking
syrup on their own.  as for medication, it depends on whether you plan to
take a minimalist approach or a more aggressive treatment approach.  i would
recommend apistan strips, at least.

hope this helps,

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




From griffes@my-dejanews.com Thu Apr  1 08:46:05 EST 1999
Article: 16330 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: griffes@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: New way to kill varroa ;-)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 05:17:34 GMT
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In article <37018B90.E09F2C23@rectec.net>,
  GW  wrote:
> I have to ask a question: what is the difference between nuke'em, the mites
and
> microwaveing, the mites? I know that some insects are not affected by
microwave.
> thanks
> gw


As I understand things Gamma rays as used in Gamma irradiation kill everything
yet pass through leaving on radioactive residue behind.  They also do not melt
down comb.

I trust you realize that microwaves do heat up comb enough to melt it - and I
really don't know if microwaves are deadly to AFB spores or not.  Likewise I
don't know if microwaves are deadly to mites.  One thing for certain - they do
not pass right through dense objects which as I recall is why they make things
warm up.

Okay ye nuclear scientists out there - come in here and educate us please.


Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
Onsted, MI
USA
http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


From bartwantsnospam@gn.apc.org Thu Apr  1 08:46:06 EST 1999
Article: 16331 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: bartwantsnospam@gn.apc.org (Bart Maguire)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bees and Crabs
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On 27 Mar 1999 03:04:58 GMT, pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator) wrote:
>   Since you have a mix of varieties, your positioning should be anywhere it is
>convenient for you. Personally, on a small planting, I like to have the crabs
>positioned near the place where bees will be placed, so they will visit the
>crab first.
>
Thank you for the advice.
I have now planted the trees and have put the crab at the end of the
garden nearest to ehere i would put the bees.
-- 
Bart


From hk1beeman@aol.com Thu Apr  1 08:46:06 EST 1999
Article: 16332 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Wild Colony Status
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>How many wild colonys remain, especially in cold pre/non
>africanised areas?
>

ferrel colonies are inded becomming very rare, USDA expects 99% loss of all
wild colonies by now.
Yes it is indeed very possible that the hive is resistant. You may wish to
contact your state ag dept so that they may be removed and studied.

Never been out that way, buy me a ticket and i'll go get em !!!


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC



From queenmkr@aol.com Thu Apr  1 08:46:07 EST 1999
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Subject: Re: Source for burlap
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Go to your local brewery.  Hops comes in burlap sacks nearly the size of a
refrigerator.  They give it to me by the truck-load at our local brewery.

Good luck!

Mark


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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
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Subject: Re: Question about B.J. Sherriff bee suit.
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>i've used a sherriff's full suit for 2 years and never been stung thru it.
>and there have been times [like this 

Oh i'd love one a the dang things, bought one for the daughter only time she
got stung was sitting on a bee OUCH heheheheee

pity they dont make one my size !!!!


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC



From thegriggs@bc.sympatico.ca Thu Apr  1 08:46:08 EST 1999
Article: 16335 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Thanks for your help. I appreciate any information I can get.

Bill Greenrose wrote:

> Jim Grigg wrote:
>
> > Hi
> > I live in Chilliwack and I am purchasing a bee package and I expect it
> > to arrive on april 19.
> > I have some old frames with combs that arn't in too bad of shape.
> > However I only have 6 frames.
> > The others are just new foundation. Will there be a problem adding this
> > new package of bees to a hive like this? I was planning on putting the
> > drawn frames in the bottom super and a super with just foundation in the
> > top. Also, how much should I feed them and should they be medicated
> > right away? Thanks for your help.
>
> greetings,
>
> i am far from an expert, so my comments come free of charge.  six frames of
> drawn foundation is six more than a package gets that is started with a
> brand new kit by most first-time beekeepers.  so, look at it as an
> advantage, not a disadvantage, since your queen will be able to start laying
> that much sooner.  as for feeding, feed 'em all they will take, which will
> probably be a lot.  when they find better forage afield [hmmm.  forage
> afield. i like the way that rolls off the tongue.] they will stop taking
> syrup on their own.  as for medication, it depends on whether you plan to
> take a minimalist approach or a more aggressive treatment approach.  i would
> recommend apistan strips, at least.
>
> hope this helps,
>
> bill
>
> ##########################################
>
> don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player
>
> bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
> greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
> http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397



From beetools@aol.com Thu Apr  1 08:46:09 EST 1999
Article: 16336 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: beetools@aol.com (Beetools)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: plastic foundation
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Before we decide which palstic foundation system to offer, we did extensive
testing of all four plastic foundation system (Perma Dent, Ritecell,
Plasticell, and Pierco). All of them work well, but we found that the Perma
Dent was consistanly drawn out faster and more even than any of the other
three. This maybe because of the superior wax coating on the Perma Dent (which
is why it is a little more expensive). Since we starte carrying Perma Dent, the
only wax foundation we no sell is mail order to people who haven't tried Perma
Dent. Our biggest problems with Perma Dent is keeping enough is stock, and the
profit margin is much smaller than the other three!

Perma Dent is actually made by a beekeeper, not a plastic molder who ended up
with some tooling.

Ron Bennett
Luckaimute Bee



From moriartm@indigo.ie Thu Apr  1 08:46:09 EST 1999
Article: 16337 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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>Any have any comments about this?  What are the disadvantages?
1 Wood has pores which helps ventilation
2 plastic is very smooth making it hard for them to walk around
3wood is natural.Would bees take well to a synthetic material like plastic?

Killian Moriarty
Ireland




From Eileen_Gregory@unc.edu Thu Apr  1 08:46:10 EST 1999
Article: 16338 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu!usenet
From: Eileen Gregory 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Anole sunning on porch of hive
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 15:47:26 -0500
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On several occasions during the past week I've noticed an Anole sunning
itself on the porch of my beehive.  Can anyone tell me whether Anoles
eat bees or would be harmful in any other way to the bees?  Due to a
dumb decision last Fall to rearrange the supers the bees have been
coming and going via the top of the hive, so there's a fairly good
chance that there has been very little bee/Anole interaction, and maybe
it just uses the hive for shelter.  What do you think?
Thanks for advice,
Eileen Gregory
obvious novice beekeeper


From jps@ticnet.com Thu Apr  1 08:46:11 EST 1999
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Subject: 2 Questions??
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Well, I decided to jump into the hobby and have
a couple questions. I just picked up some woodenware
and foundation today.

1. What precautions should I take with foundation that
may not be used for a couple months or next year?

2. Regarding painting hives, I read to only paint the
outside. From what I understand the bottom board
is reversible for a summer or winter entrance, so
either side could be the exterior (or interior!). Should
I paint both sides or neither? I'm planning on priming
the bare wood and using an exterior grade latex paint
- light color...OK?

Thanks
Jim
Dallas, TX USA
http://www.ticnet.com/dfw-rc-net/





From hk1beeman@aol.com Thu Apr  1 08:46:11 EST 1999
Article: 16340 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Anole sunning on porch of hive
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>On several occasions during the past week I've noticed an Anole s

they'll eat em
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC



From honeybs@radix.net Thu Apr  1 08:46:12 EST 1999
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From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: plastic hive bodies
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HDC <75210.1612@CompuServe.COM> wrote:

>I've heard that plastic hive bodies are being used in Northern 
>Europe.  I know nothing about their construction, and have never 
>heard of them in the States, or seen them in catalogs.
>
>I wonder why we don't use them here.
>
>It seems to me that construction similar to the portable 
>insulated food lockers we use for picnics(sheathed polystyrene) 
>would be ideal for hive hive bodies.  It seems to me that they 
>would have several advantages over wood hive bodies, namely, 
>weight, strength, resistance to rot, sterilizability, 
>possibly less adhesion to propolos and wax, and price.  
>
>Any have any comments about this?  What are the disadvantages?
>
>Maybe I'll experiment with a food locker.  It should be easy to 
>make a TBH out of one.
>
>Thanks.

>-- 
>
If God wanted bees to live in plastic hives he/she would
have made plastic trees!

Greg the beekeep




       //          Bee Just & Just Bee!        
  =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA    
       \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs

              



From bill.greenrose@valley.net Thu Apr  1 08:46:12 EST 1999
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From: Bill Greenrose 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: New way to kill varroa ;-)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 20:42:44 -0500
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griffes@my-dejanews.com wrote:

> In article <37018B90.E09F2C23@rectec.net>,
>   GW  wrote:
> > I have to ask a question: what is the difference between nuke'em, the mites
> and
> > microwaveing, the mites? I know that some insects are not affected by
> microwave.
> > thanks
> > gw
>
> As I understand things Gamma rays as used in Gamma irradiation kill everything
> yet pass through leaving on radioactive residue behind.  They also do not melt
> down comb.
>
> I trust you realize that microwaves do heat up comb enough to melt it - and I
> really don't know if microwaves are deadly to AFB spores or not.  Likewise I
> don't know if microwaves are deadly to mites.  One thing for certain - they do
> not pass right through dense objects which as I recall is why they make things
> warm up.
>
> Okay ye nuclear scientists out there - come in here and educate us please.
>
> Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
> Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
> Onsted, MI
> USA
> http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

well, i am far, far from a nuclear scientist, but if i remember correctly [never a
given] microwaves impart a lot of their energy to water molecules and, thus,
materials that have a high water content.  like most foods.  and, given enough
time, most critters.  however, in cooking, i don't believe most food items, like
meat, are left in long enough to raise the temperature high enough to kill all
microorganisms that may be present, and the food itself shields many critters from
the radiation by direct absorption, because microwaves don't penetrate thick
materials very well.  which is why one can become very sick by reheating food that
has been left out to raise a healthy population of salmonella or some such
beastie.  given enough time, i'm pretty sure that microwave radiation would kill v
mites, basically by boiling their innards.  but, as you point out, jack, the
energy will also melt wax.

gamma radiation, on the other hand has a much much higher energy level and,
consequently, imparts much more energy, more quickly than microwave.  the
wavelength is much smaller and, so it can penetrate much deeper than microwave
radiation and can kill microorganisms deep in other material, like tissue [or
pallets of materials to be sterilized].  that energy is able to disrupt stronger
chemical bonds than microwave radiation in less time, and so, destroys molecules
like enzymes and other proteins more efficiently.  so, it works better on low
moisture content materials, like spores.  since it works so quickly, it doesn't
alter the flavor or texture of food items nearly as much as other sterilization
techniques.

anyway, that's what i can remember without going back to the books for a refresher
course.

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




From bill.greenrose@valley.net Thu Apr  1 08:46:13 EST 1999
Article: 16343 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Bill Greenrose 
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Question about B.J. Sherriff bee suit.
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 20:19:15 -0500
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Hk1BeeMan wrote:

> >i've used a sherriff's full suit for 2 years and never been stung thru it.
> >and there have been times [like this
>
> Oh i'd love one a the dang things, bought one for the daughter only time she
> got stung was sitting on a bee OUCH heheheheee
>
> pity they dont make one my size !!!!
>
> Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC

that's what ya get, kevin, for eatin' all them grilled bee brood!   ;)

bill

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don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

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