Article 14848 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: harrisonrw@aol.com (HarrisonRW)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: info search
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www.nhb.org   

Is the web site of the National Honey Board and they have what you are looking
for.

Regards,
Ralph Harrison
Western Connecticut Beekeepers Association
Milford, CT USA


Article 14849 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: allend@internode.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: info search
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> I'm having trouble finding basic information on the internet about
> bees.  I'm looking for the simplest kind of educational information,
> since I don't know anything about bees.  Does anyone know any good URLs
> for this kind of information, or have a recommendation of books to look
> for in the library

Hi Mara,

This is a good question, and one that has many answers.

The web has a large amount of good bee information, and there are discussions
like this that you can listen in on.  A good one is BEE-L, which you can join
by going to http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/beel.htm

If you go to the home page of that site after joining BEE-L and searching the
extensive archives of previous discussions, you will find a link a page of
links, many of which will refer you to still more sites.

My own home page, http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/ ,has links to my bee area
which in turn leads out to some of the best lists of URLs.

Allen

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
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Article 14850 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: andy.nachbaur@calwest.net (Andy Nachbaur)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: BEENEWS is not all bad? 
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 17:08:02 GMT
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<ARIZONA STAR> 10.29.98 From a victim of last months bee attack in
BisBEE after 500 stings a voice of reason is heard "Don't kill the
bees" 

Stop in for the latest bee keeper news, updated as it is reported..
and if you have something you think should be seen feal free to e-mail
it to me at: andy.nachbaur@calwest.net

For all the beenews go to http://beenet.com/bnews.htm

Tanks, the OLd Drone 

(c)Permission is given to copy this document 
in any form, or to print for any use.

(w)OPINIONS are not necessarily facts. USE  AT OWN RISK!


Article 14851 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Bill Greenrose <bill.greenrose@valley.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Power Ventilators for Bees???
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 10:07:52 -0500
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Tom Singleton wrote:

> I just found a site advertising a power hive ventilator for
> bees...sounds a little odd, but after I read the bee research info,
> hmmm...
>
> Has anyone out there actually tried one of these devices, and could
> offer an experienced opinion as to effect on hive health and honey
> production?
>
> Thanks for any help.  I'm not sure I can see the $120 per hive cost, but
> it's interesting.
>
> Tom
> Monroe, WA

greetings,

i've never used the powered hive ventilator, but i have a couple of d.e.
hives, and they use passive ventilation via a vent box.  it is just a super
box [actually, even simpler] with 3 screened holes on each side that sits
above the inner lid [which has 3 screened holes, as well] and below the
telescoping roof.  in my experience it works very well.  in the past 2
summers i haven't once seen my bees clustered outside the hive due to
overheating.  a good convective flow probably aids them in 1) cooling the
hive and 2) evaporating moisture from the honey to speed capping, but i have
no proof of either statement.  the vent box also has the advantage of
providing plenty of space over the inner lid for feeding larger quantities
of syrup.

if you plan to give it a try, here are a couple of construction tips.
first, make your holes at an angle [going 'up' and 'in'] to provide some
protection in the rain.  second, make them about 1/3 the way up the side of
the box, not dead center.  that way, you can flip the box in the fall, and
the holes will be covered by the telescoping roof.  in the spring, reverse
it.  anyway, that's how david eyre designed his vent box and it works fine
for me.  lot less than $120, too.

hope this helps.

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




Article 14852 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Tom Speight <Tom@tomsp8.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What are your favorite types of Honey?
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 00:26:31 +0000
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In article <3638DDD7.F95@povn.com>, J. F Hensler <hensler@povn.com>
writes
>Yo Tom:
>
>No, no, no, you've got it all backward.  

Seems on par for me :(
-- 
Tom Speight


Article 14853 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Message-ID: <363B91BA.2A3F@saltspring.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 14:39:54 -0800
From: stephen ball <sball@saltspring.com>
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on several occasion now i have observed my bees apparently foraging on
an old raw sheepskin hanging in the barn.apon closer examination they
appear to be pulling wool fibres.any suggestions as to this
behavior?thanks    stephen ball


Article 14854 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "gene/janice" <e-jeve@spiritone.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: cheap varroa strips
Date: 1 Nov 1998 04:54:07 GMT
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Talked to a Professer of Entomology from state college (no name) last
evening about fluvalinate strips from China. He says they have not been
approved in this country so should not use. Later said that because of the
price they are very widely used in Thialand when he was visiting there.

Just some food for thought.

Gene in Ore.



Mark Jensen wrote in message <362ab908.27475855@netnews.att.net>...
>An ad in the latest ABJ said to check varroa.com. So I did as I was told
>and went to:
>http://www.varroa.com
>Lo and behold the Chinese are selling fluvalinate strips for less than
>$.40 US each.
>I turned in an order but the credit card listed was Visa, and alas all I
>had was Master Card.
>I tried to order using the fax #, but that number did not work.
>It looks like the internet is going to bring some sorely needed
>competition to our friendly apistan salesmen.




Article 14855 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Flemming Rasmussen" <flemmin_@post10.tele.dk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Apian technology(queens)
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 11:35:51 +0100
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Is there any one who had tried "Apian technology Queens breeding
system"?.The company are from New Zealand. Is it god?Does it have any "dark"
sides?Do it keep what thei promise in there comerserial?

Regards Flemming Rasmussen .Denmark.
 flemmin_@post10.tele.dk





Article 14856 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Tasos Toutoutzian" <atout@otenet.gr>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Formic acid help wanted
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 22:33:25 +0200
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Dear friends
I have a obtained a bottle of formic acid from the chemists
 and would like to use it to treat for varroa.

could someone tell me how to go about it?

ie.  if this liquid is 100% pure what dilution should I use
       how do I apply it (with paper strips?)
       where on the hive should it be placed
        how often to change it
       etc.

I have 12 colonies and thank everyone who will respond to my question

atout@otenet.gr

Thank you
all
 Anastasios Toutountzian
Athens Greece.





Article 14857 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Don Metzger" <anomynous@anoyous.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Just a test to see how news groups work
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 14:46:45 -0800
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YES THIS IS JUST A TEST, NOT A REQUEST FOR A REPLY.

But thank you for reading it anyway.





Article 14858 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: jerryosv@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Beginner needs help
Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 18:42:24 GMT
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In article <70gf7a$67t$2@news1.Radix.Net>,
  honeybs@radix.net (honeybs) wrote:
> shine389@aol.com (Shine389) wrote:
>
> >Hi, I am very very interested in keeping bees and also very very clueless.
Can
> >someone lead me to someone or someplace that can help me??  Thanks.
> It would help if we knew what part of the planet are you
> from?
>
> The following might give you a clue:
> 1. Go to the library.
> 2. Get a library card (they are free).
> 3. Take home books and videos on beekeeping.
> 4. Watch videos.
> 5. Read books.
> 6. Return them to the library.
> 7.  Go back to rule #3.
>
> Then come here with inteligent questions for discussion.
>
> Greg
>
>        //          Bee Just & Just Bee!
>   =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA
>        \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs
>
>
> shine389, the above are excellent suggestions from greg, I would also then
call your local agriculture dept., ask the entomologis if there are any bee
keepers that known to be helpful to beginners, many commercial people don't
have the time but some will. Good luck. I'm in S. Calif.




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Article 14859 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Oso43" <oso43@hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: to everyone...
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 17:09:01 -0800
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In an effort to keep from being slammed, or flammed what is the policy of
this newsgroup about mentioning a site that carries supplies for beekeepers?

oso43@aol.com




Article 14860 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: beecrofter@aol.com (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: to everyone...
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Why not post the address  
nobody will be forced to go there


Article 14861 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Ulli Hoeger" <uhogerdelete@tupphysiol1.bp.dal.ca>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: bees in wool?
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stephen ball <sball@saltspring.com> wrote in article
<363B91BA.2A3F@saltspring.com>...
> on several occasion now i have observed my bees apparently foraging on
> an old raw sheepskin hanging in the barn.apon closer examination they
> appear to be pulling wool fibres.any suggestions as to this
> behavior?thanks    stephen ball
> 

Looks like the winter will be pretty cold ;)


Article 14862 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: pabeeman@aol.com (Pa Beeman)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: BeeKeeping Software
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Does any one know of any software for beekeeping.


Article 14863 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Michael Scott Meiners" <meinerms@email.uc.edu>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Honey Labels
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I've finaly run out of honey jar labels which my dad bought in bulk back in
the 80's.  I'm looking to but some more but I can not find anybody that
sells them.  Any suggestions on where to look?  Thanks,
-Mike




Article 14864 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Carmela Carbonaro" <carmcarb@tin.it>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: RED SICILIANS ORANGES
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 00:04:35 +0100
Organization: TIN
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Messaggio a piЫ sezioni in formato MIME.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I SELL RED SICILIANS ORANGES,VARIETY TAROCCO AND SANGUINELLO,FROM =
PRODUCER TO CONSUMER.
FOR INFORMATION:     carmcarb@tin.it

------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BE06BD.8AA7F040
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I SELL RED SICILIANS ORANGES,VARIETY =
TAROCCO AND=20
SANGUINELLO,FROM PRODUCER TO CONSUMER.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>FOR =
INFORMATION:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"mailto:carmcarb@tin.it">carmcarb@tin.it</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></=
HTML>

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Article 14865 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Tom Singleton <tsingle@bigfoot.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: How many strips to use??
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 17:43:35 -0800
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I know that I should know this by now, but.....after having (finally)
read the package instructions for my Apistan strips this year I'm still
not REALLY sure whether I'm supposed to use TWO or FOUR strips in a two
brood super hive.

The instructions say "Use one strip for each 5 combs of bees or less in
each brood chamber (Langstroth deep frames or equivalent in other
sizes)." This seems to indicate that I would use a total of FOUR strips
in a two super colony.  BUT...

The instructions also say "If two deep supers are used for the brood
nest, hang APISTAN strips in alternate corners of the cluster in the top
and bottom super."  Alternate corners could seem to mean only TWO strips
used, in opposite corners.  Or does it mean FOUR strips in an up & down
"X" pattern at the four corners of the brood nest?

This wouldn't be so confusing I guess if I didn't know beekeepers who
were of both persuasions.  What's the consensus of practice out there?
For the record I have always used FOUR strips, one each between frames 3
& 4 and between 7 & 8, both upper and lower super, and haven't had any
problems.  But then, I mostly have "Yugos", which are supposed to be
mite-resistant....

Also, handling these strips with rubber gloves is awful clumsy and slow,
but I did it this year anyway, instead of just using my bare hands (I
don't generally use gloves) as in all years past.  Does anybody know how
harmful exposure to fluvalinate to people/skin really is?

Just curious,
Tom S.
Monroe, WA



Article 14866 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: jerryosv@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Beginner needs help
Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 18:52:30 GMT
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In article <70gf7a$67t$2@news1.Radix.Net>,
  honeybs@radix.net (honeybs) wrote:
> shine389@aol.com (Shine389) wrote:
>
> >Hi, I am very very interested in keeping bees and also very very clueless.
Can
> >someone lead me to someone or someplace that can help me??  Thanks.
> It would help if we knew what part of the planet are you
> from?
>
> The following might give you a clue:
> 1. Go to the library.
> 2. Get a library card (they are free).
> 3. Take home books and videos on beekeeping.
> 4. Watch videos.
> 5. Read books.
> 6. Return them to the library.
> 7.  Go back to rule #3.
>
> Then come here with inteligent questions for discussion.
>
> Greg
>
>        //          Bee Just & Just Bee!
>   =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA
>        \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs
>
>The above are excellent suggestions, I would then call or go to your local
agriculture dept. ask the entomologis if there are bee keepers that are known
to be helpfull to beginners. Many commercial people don't have the time, but
some are ready to help the new keepers. Good luck

jerry

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


Article 14867 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 20:47:42 -0800
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There are not any dramatic, and maybe not even any subtle anatomical 
differences between Africanized honeybees and normal honeybees. Insect 
biologists don't say exactly how they are supposed to be able to tell the 
difference anatomically. It seems to be established in the scientific 
community, therefore, that the Africanized bee is identified by its 
behavior, not by its anatomy.*

This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 
example of the phenomenon of demon possession. The most well known 
historical example of demon possession occurred in 
the days of Jesus when a demon possessed man who lived among the tombs 
approached him. This man (there may have been 
two demon possessed men) was under demon control so that it was not 
possible even to restrain the man with chains. Jesus effectuated a cure 
of the man by ordering the legions of demons out of his body, and when 
the demons exited his body they entered into the bodies of 2,000 swine, 
completely possessing and controlling the swine.


* see for example:           http://beekeeping.miningco.com/mlibrary.htm
"Question: How is the Africanized bee different from the domestic honey 
bee?
 The physical differences between the European and Africanized hone bee 
are so slight that it is difficult even for an expert to make a positive 
visual identification. Complex testing procedures are used to distinguish 
between the two bees.
 The most obvious characteristics of the Africanized bee have to do with 
its behavior. Africanized colonies are consistently more defensive, more 
apt to swarm and move, and are less selective in choosing a nesting site. 
The colonies also occur in greater numbers."


Article 14868 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Ulli Hoeger" <uhogerdelete@tupphysiol1.bp.dal.ca>
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: 3 Nov 1998 14:45:17 GMT
Organization: ISINet, Nova Scotia
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Peter Amschel <amschelp@pe.net> wrote in article
<MPG.10a82ac5883dc9249896e8@news.pe.net>...

> This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
> Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 
> example of the phenomenon of demon possession. 
> 
HARD STUFF!  What kind of drugs are you using?
Can you give us this URL?
It is not http://beekeeping.miningco.com/mlibrary.htm  (BTW a very good
summary of all possible bee related links)



Article 14869 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: peter.hutton@zbee.com (Peter Hutton)
To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: publicity
Message-ID: <910086204@zbee.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 22:51:00 GMT
Lines: 16
Distribution: world
Organization: ZbeeNet computer networking for beekeepers

CHRS: IBMPC 2

CODEPAGE: 437

MSGID: 240:244/116 4bb41546

PID: FDAPX/w 1.12a UnReg(470)
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Hi Godfrey,
 mountbee@iafrica.com requires info on Shows in the UK and trade stand terms or
Agency matters. I think immediately of the National this month and the fact
that firm has failed to pick up on the publicity and of the Spring convention
at Stoneleigh.

You might well be able to pick up on the Agency side of this enquiry and inform
them of the Spring convention as well.

Regards

Peter Hutton

---
 * Origin: Kent Beekeeper Beenet Point (240:244/116)


Article 14870 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: 3 Nov 1998 17:15:21 GMT
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In article <MPG.10a82ac5883dc9249896e8@news.pe.net>,
Peter Amschel <amschelp@pe.net> wrote:

>There are not any dramatic, and maybe not even any subtle anatomical 
>differences between Africanized honeybees and normal honeybees. Insect 
>biologists don't say exactly how they are supposed to be able to tell the 
>difference anatomically. It seems to be established in the scientific 
>community, therefore, that the Africanized bee is identified by its 
>behavior, not by its anatomy.*
>
>This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
>Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 

Are you serious? So then, the adaptation to being more sensitive to alarm
pheromone and it's releasing behavior more intense is "demon possession"?

I guess you can call it that, or Peanut Butter Sandwich if you want.


Man I'm amazed with this logic. A skewed syllogism.

Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein                                   
adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     adamf@radix.net      (either will work)
http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/adamf



Article 14871 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Honey Labels
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 98 08:51:13 EST
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In article <4w8%1.421$CM.2615@newsfeed.slurp.net>
"Michael Scott Meiners" <meinerms@email.uc.edu> writes:
 
>
>Any suggestions on where to look (for honey labels)?
>
Most aggressive advertisor in the bee rags is:
   R.M. Farms (Bob)
   PO Box 684
   Dearborn, Mi.  48127-0684
   Phone: (313) 722-7727
   Fax:   (313) 729-7826
 
I have always been satisfied with their product.
 
Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee!


Article 14872 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Oldfield Family" <oldfield@kynd.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Honey Labels
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 15:12:55 -0500
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You obviously own a computer , with a printer? try making your own off the
printer incorporate your own apairy logo labels to fit the printer and the
jars or honey bears are readily available for small price that may make your
honey and products stand out from rest! Packaging man packaging!
Michael Scott Meiners wrote in message
<4w8%1.421$CM.2615@newsfeed.slurp.net>...
>I've finaly run out of honey jar labels which my dad bought in bulk back in
>the 80's.  I'm looking to but some more but I can not find anybody that
>sells them.  Any suggestions on where to look?  Thanks,
>-Mike
>
>




Article 14873 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Lines: 11
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:14873

>Man I'm amazed with this logic. A skewed syllogism.
>

you know i'm reminded of a late night bee transport, where i was keeping my
smoker going by hanging it in the truck window, this also allowed me to
breathe. this all worked to grab the attention of a passing state trooper.
after giving me the blues he asked what the heck was i smoking....
i replied simply with a grin and answered,
 why bees of course
when i drove away he was still laughing !!
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 14874 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Robert Stucki" <ROBERT.STUCKI@SE.ADMIN.CH>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Varroa treatment with mineral oil
Date: 2 Nov 98 16:40:20 GMT
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Have any one any experience with this stuff ?
Is it god?Does it have any "dark" sides?

Regards Robert Stucki, Switzerland


Article 14875 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: andy.nachbaur@calwest.net (Andy Nachbaur)
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 01:50:11 GMT
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On Mon, 2 Nov 1998 20:47:42 -0800, amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
wrote:

>There are not any dramatic, and maybe not even any subtle anatomical 
>differences between Africanized honeybees and normal honeybees. Insect 
>biologists don't say exactly how they are supposed to be able to tell the 
>difference anatomically. It seems to be established in the scientific 
>community, therefore, that the Africanized bee is identified by its 
>behavior, not by its anatomy.*

Today in the US anatomical differences are measured to determine if
the suspected bee fits in the profile, same science developed and used
by the German's in WWII in running their death camps, and then shades
of OJ, DNA tests are made...only thing about this DNA the only 100%
pure  African hive found in the US was found years before the first
recorded arrivals from South America all the rest have been called
Africanized I guess cause they ain't so pure, but then no body has yet
been able to take these so called Africanized and breed them backwards
to African so I would guess their genes are also not so pure also. 

No behavioral measurement are made in Africanized regulatory tests in
the US. One reason for this is that in the past we have been able to
demonstrate bad behavior in bees that exceeds anything reported in
Africanized bees prior or since to its introduction into the US.

Honey bees have been killing people here since the first introduction
from Europe which also were themselves said at times to be "fire
eating bees that could swell the pockets shut on a old sows purse".
Old timers referred to them as German Blacks or Spanish Bees depending
on how far south they lived. 

A few, and  I believe its all a bunch of BS hype and so do some in the
upper rooms of government as the federal program will soon expire.

In the original tests at Bakersfield California the more time the
tests were repeated on the same hives the more so called Africanized
bees were found. The quarantine was lifted not because NO Africanized
bees were found but because after repeated tests they were found in
hives that were known to have been re-queened with Northern California
queens a few months earlier..

>This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
>Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 
>example of the phenomenon of demon possession. The most well known 
>historical example of demon possession occurred in 
>the days of Jesus when a demon possessed man who lived among the tombs 
>approached him. This man (there may have been 
>two demon possessed men) was under demon control so that it was not 
>possible even to restrain the man with chains. Jesus effectuated a cure 
>of the man by ordering the legions of demons out of his body, and when 
>the demons exited his body they entered into the bodies of 2,000 swine, 
>completely possessing and controlling the swine.

That's at the least original and would look as good in some of the
quarantine orders I have seen as what they did contained and I am sure
experts could be found that would back it up word for word.

>"Question: How is the Africanized bee different from the domestic honey 
>bee?
> The physical differences between the European and Africanized hone bee 
>are so slight that it is difficult even for an expert to make a positive 
>visual identification. Complex testing procedures are used to distinguish 
>between the two bees.
> The most obvious characteristics of the Africanized bee have to do with 
>its behavior. Africanized colonies are consistently more defensive, more 
>apt to swarm and move, and are less selective in choosing a nesting site. 
>The colonies also occur in greater numbers."

I know we have been all trained to believe that Africander bees are
different and always aggressive but beekeepers who work with them
every day mano e mano do not know that difference. All one has to do
is to see a crazy gringo or native beeman working his bees in cut
off's in Brazil or any other place that has Afro bees to realize that
someone has bee fed a line... In any case if the Africanized bee story
was true and as dramatic as it has been written there would be no
reason at all for anyone to lie about it, or set up the press,  right
...well see this url for some background.

http://beenet.com/texmex.htm

Be sure and check out this guys credits...he's not God but has no
reason to lie about the work he has done.

ttul, the OLd Drone
http://beenet.com

(c)Permission is given to copy this document 
in any form, or to print for any use.

(w)OPINIONS are not necessarily facts. USE  AT OWN RISK!


Article 14876 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: sdrfgdg
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wetwtrwtrwretwwet


Article 14877 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: skep615@aol.com (SKEP615)
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Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
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amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel) wrote:
>
<snip>
>This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
>Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 
>example of the phenomenon of demon possession.

ROTFL Nothing quite like a bit of sheer craziness to get me going in the
morning! Thanks.

> The most well known 
>historical example of demon possession occurred in 
>the days of Jesus when a demon possessed man who lived among the tombs 
>approached him. 

Sorry if I rattle too many cages, but there is a BIG difference between
"history" ("historical example") and religious or spiritual or scriptural
narrative, regardless the degree to which the latter depends on verifiable
facts.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Paul Kent Oakley
The Sabine Farm
Ava, Illinois (85 miles SE of St.Louis)

send any e-mail to me at:   YELKAO615  at  AOL dot COM

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Article 14878 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Mice
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Has any one ever had Mice enter there hive's with Entrance Reducers installed.


Article 14879 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 08:01:13 -0800
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Just plain old Mary Jane.
These are only the most preliminary research findings.


In article <01be0738$a08227c0$cf58ad81@ulli.BP.Dal.Ca>, 
uhogerdelete@tupphysiol1.bp.dal.ca says...
> 
> 
> Peter Amschel <amschelp@pe.net> wrote in article
> <MPG.10a82ac5883dc9249896e8@news.pe.net>...
> 
> > This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
> > Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 
> > example of the phenomenon of demon possession. 
> > 
> HARD STUFF!  What kind of drugs are you using?
> Can you give us this URL?
> It is not http://beekeeping.miningco.com/mlibrary.htm  (BTW a very good
> summary of all possible bee related links)
> 
> 


Article 14880 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: Tom Singleton <tsingle@bigfoot.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: BeeKeeping Software
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 13:44:29 -0800
Organization: Monroe Business Services, Inc.
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There's a list of bee software at the miningco site at
http://beekeeping.miningco.com/mlibrary.htm .  Scroll down to the
"Software" subcategory and have fun...

Tom Singleton
Monroe, WA

Pa Beeman wrote:

> Does any one know of any software for beekeeping.



Article 14881 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: to everyone...
Date: 3 Nov 1998 21:03:11 GMT
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In article <363d074c.0@news.ccountry.net>, Oso43 <oso43@hotmail.com> wrote:
>In an effort to keep from being slammed, or flammed what is the policy of
>this newsgroup about mentioning a site that carries supplies for beekeepers?

Hi thanks for being so polite.
If your post has any advantage to beekeepers, then it belongs here.
You might tailor the distribution, unless the site points to a seller that
caters to world-wide commerce. 
Adam

-- 
Adam Finkelstein                                   
adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     adamf@radix.net      (either will work)
http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/adamf



Article 14882 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "David Gaida" <dublgully@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
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Hi Peter/All

Peter, your comments about african honey bees just show how little 
you know about them. To say there are not any dramatic differences 
between the african and european honeybees is similar to saying there 
is no dramatic difference between a polar bear and a lion.

> > There are not any dramatic, and maybe not even any subtle anatomical 
> > differences between Africanized honeybees and normal honeybees. Insect 
> > biologists don't say exactly how they are supposed to be able to tell
the
> > difference anatomically. It seems to be established in the scientific 
> > community, therefore, that the Africanized bee is identified by its 
> > behavior, not by its anatomy.*

The african honeybee is identified genetically for ease. A simple 
half hour preperation of DNA and a little test can easily 
differentiate between africanized and non-africanized honeybees if it 
is carried out correctly. Although less sensitive many researchers 
can use anatomical characters to differentiat bees, but here 
collector bias can cause problems.

 > This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
> > Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 
> > example of the phenomenon of demon possession. The most well known 
> > historical example of demon possession occurred in 

is the way certain beekeepers who are not able to change their ways 
have tried to kill all the african honeybees moving into the suitable 
regions of the US - wasting much money and effort - rather than doing 
what any sensible african beekeeper does - breed a better bee.

> > * see for example:          
http://beekeeping.miningco.com/mlibrary.htm
> > "Question: How is the Africanized bee different from the domestic honey

> > bee?
> >  The physical differences between the European and Africanized hone bee

> > are so slight that it is difficult even for an expert to make a
positive 
> > visual identification. Complex testing procedures are used to
distinguish

The african honeybee does not over winter under low temperature 
conditions. It builds different combs size given the chance. It is 
smaller. It is a different colour often. It's queens can fly at any 
time, it has better flight machinery. It is not stoned enough to sit 
by and let something destroy it's hive without putting up a fight. It 
can survive in the presence of the hive beetle Aethina tumida. It is 
more varroa tolerant. It is a tropical bee - it has more generations 
per year so certain traits have been selected for a bit faster than 
in EHB's.

> >  The most obvious characteristics of the Africanized bee have to do
with 
> > its behavior. Africanized colonies are consistently more defensive,
more 
> > apt to swarm and move, and are less selective in choosing a nesting
site.


Because they originate from a continent where that is the way of 
life. Imagine if we in africa had EHB's invading. We would have these 
incompetant bees that don't produce many young, that don't work very 
hard, that go to sleep for half the year living in our land. Then to 
make things worse, when a natural predator like a honey badger came 
along the bees would not even put up a fight to chase it away. When a 
fire came they would just sit and get burnt - rather than flying 
away. Ask yourself - is the african bee an example of demon 
possesion, or is it an example of an animal that lives peacefully and 
happily in africa being moved to a land where the average knowledge 
of bees of the inhabitants is so low that the demon possesed press 
make people like yourself, Peter, make such silly comments?

> > The colonies also occur in greater numbers."

Of course they do - the bees have a better energy to flight 
conversion system - in otherwords their ability to fly is better. So 
for the same number of flowers visited the african genes allow 
another 20% extra bees to be reared.

So in conclusion - the african honey bee is not demon possesed - a 
beekeeper such as myself, used to handling these bees can easily 
handle them. It is the press, and the countless morons in our society 
that are demon possed to exagerate the properties of a perfectly 
sensible bee.
Garth Cambray           Camdini Apiaries
15 Park Road
Grahamstown             Apis mellifera capensis
6139
South Africa

Time = Honey

If you are not living on the edge you are taking up too much space!!





Article 14883 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: AL <lithar@midwest.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: BeeKeeping Software
Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 13:09:57 -0600
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Pa Beeman wrote:
> 
> Does any one know of any software for beekeeping.


All my stuff seems to be woodenware & hardware - the clothing is kinda
soft though.

:)

AL


Article 14884 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Kent Stienburg <beeman@kingston.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How many strips to use??
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 17:06:18 -0800
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Tom Singleton wrote:
> 
> 
  What's the consensus of practice out there? For the record I have
always used FOUR strips, one each between frames 3
> & 4 and between 7 & 8, both upper and lower super, and haven't had any
> problems.  But then, I mostly have "Yugos", which are supposed to be
> mite-resistant....
> 
> Also, handling these strips with rubber gloves is awful clumsy and slow,
> but I did it this year anyway, instead of just using my bare hands (I
> don't generally use gloves) as in all years past.  Does anybody know how
> harmful exposure to fluvalinate to people/skin really is?
> 
> Just curious,
> Tom S.
> Monroe, WA

Hi Tom,
I put 4 strips in a two box hive exactly where you are hanging them.  I
have Carnolians also and have found mites.  I have always found the term
MITE resistant interesting because it implies both mites.  Here in
Ontario we have been told by our provincial bee inspecter that some of
our strains are showing signs of trecheal mite resistance.  But not
Varroa.  Any way the Carnolian and Buckfast strains I purchased from the
breeders are one of them.  I found Varroa this year but I have never
treated for trecheal.  I don't use gloves when I place the strips in the
hives.  Since I only have a few hives I am not handling them for very
long and I immediately wash my hands after I am done. I am not saying
what I do is right, as you have noted the instruction clearly state to
use gloves. 
-- 
Kent Stienburg
Remove NOSPAM to reply.


Article 14885 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "C.R. Crowell" <Curtiscrow@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: 5 Nov 1998 01:49:55 GMT
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Garth Cambray:
  I thank you for the informative response to the suggestion that AHB's
represent a
case of demonic possession.  Having just readied myself to acquire a
significant
stock of votive candles, not to mention the preparation for the burial of
statues of
certain saints and the solicitation of the services of a priest of uncertain
credentials
and yet very certain fees, I am relieved.  Relieved that I may spend my time
on more
productive pursuits, but alas, a bit sad to realize that source of
considerable
entertainment has passed on..... / Curtis Crowell





Article 14886 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Mice
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>Has any one ever had Mice enter there hive's with Entrance Reducers
>installed.

did one winter and didn't even know it till spring, they stung him to death and
propolized him, found the gruesome mummy after scraping away a very huge wad of
propolis i found when changing around hive bodies.


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


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From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 21:06:16 -0800
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So, Paul, would you similarly deny the historicity of the following 
account about Caesar?



                   Caesar's death was partly due to his clemency and 
impatience, which, in combination, were dangerous for his personal 
security. Caesar had not hesitated to commit atrocities against 
"barbarians" when it had suited him, but he was almost consistently 
magnanimous in his treatment of his defeated Roman opponents. Thus 
clemency was probably not just a matter of policy. Caesar's earliest 
experience in his political career had been Sulla's implacable 
persecution of his defeated domestic opponents.
                   Caesar amnestied his opponents wholesale and gave a 
number of them responsible positions in his new regime. Gaius Cassius 
Longinus, who was the moving spirit in the plot to murder him, and Marcus 
Junius Brutus, the symbolic embodiment of Roman republicanism, were both 
former enemies. "Et tu, Brute" ("You too, Brutus") was Caesar's 
expression of his particular anguish at being stabbed by a man whom he
had forgiven, trusted, and loved. 
http://www.eb.com:180/cgi-bin/g?DocF=macro/5000/95.html


In article <19981104022447.10513.00003861@ng118.aol.com>, skep615@aol.com 
says...
>  but there is a BIG difference between
> "history" ("historical example") and religious or spiritual or scriptural
> narrative, regardless the degree to which the latter depends on verifiable
> facts.
> 
>


Article 14888 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: jvanbreda@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: cheap varroa strips A WARNING
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 09:31:58 GMT
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In article <909896038.81082@ridge.spiritone.com>,
  "gene/janice" <e-jeve@spiritone.com> wrote:
> Talked to a Professer of Entomology from state college (no name) last
> evening about fluvalinate strips from China. He says they have not been
> approved in this country so should not use. Later said that because of the
> price they are very widely used in Thialand when he was visiting there.
>
> Just some food for thought.
>
> Gene in Ore.

Some further food for thought.	If the cheap chinese Varroa strips are more
variable in terms of the actual concentration of active chemical, which I'm
sure is quite likely, then there is a big problem using them.  Treating a
colony with a weaker chemical solution than intended will wipe out only some
of the mites, leaving behind the ones which are more resistant to treatment.
These go on to breed - YOU ARE BREEDING RESISTANT VARROA!!!  Please, please,
please refrain from using uncertified treatments as in the long run it will
be more expensive for all of us! This also applies to the suggestion re
cutting strips up into smaller pieces - it doesn't work!

John

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Article 14889 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
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On 5 Nov 1998 01:49:55 GMT, "C.R. Crowell" <Curtiscrow@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:

  Having just readied myself to acquire a
>significant
>stock of votive candles, 

Why not make your own?  Bees wax is very good for this, you know!
--
KJ@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk
Ay, thanks for the report;
we'll break the (l)user's legs today.
Or at least cancel his accounts


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> > What's the consensus of practice out there? For the record I have
> > always used FOUR strips, one each between frames 3
> > & 4 and between 7 & 8, both upper and lower super, and haven't had any
> > problems

Depending on the time of year and other factors, this may be more than
necessary, and since Apistan is a pesticide that does have some effects on
bees above certain doses, may lead to some problems eventually.  Maybe not.

My understanding is that 2 strips should be enough if placed in the brood area
such that all the bees have good contact.  In the case of double brood
chambers, there will not be brood in all frames, so it is necessary to know
where the brood is.  That is where the bees will congregate in cooler moments.

If the strips are placed near the outer walls, then the bees will be often
out of contact with them at night.  That is not necessarily bad, but for
consistent results, the strips should be placed where the bees rub on them
through the entire treatment period.

> > Also, handling these strips with rubber gloves is awful clumsy and slow,
> > but I did it this year anyway, instead of just using my bare hands (I
> > don't generally use gloves) as in all years past.  Does anybody know how
> > harmful exposure to fluvalinate to people/skin really is?

Why find out the hard way?  Dish washing gloves are cheap and easy to find.
Clumsy?  Not these ones.  The large, hard chemical handling gloves are not
suited to working with the strips, but the dish washing gloves are quite good.
My favourite are the blue ones from Wal-Mart that cost a couple of bucks, but
you can get 10 pair from Costco for about $6 or so.  Suprisingly, they aren't
too bad for bee gloves in a pinch -- bonus!  I am not certain that they are
totally impermeable to fluvalinate, but have not noticed any problems.  maybe
there are experts out there who can say.  What is also important is to remove
them properly, so that the inside of one glove is not contaminated by the
fingers of the other hand.

My understanding is that fluvalinate may not bother some individuals, but may
really irritate others, and of course there is no sense adding to the chemical
accumulation in your body by absorbing the grease soluble pesticide through
your skin.  Moreover, if you happen to use those same hands for smoking or
eating, you are asking to ingest the chemical.

Allen

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I'm looking for purchasing a canadian or quИbec bee farm.
If you know somebody how sell his bee farm, please give me the address.
Thank you in advance.


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From: "Philip Hempel" <beeyard@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: New Online Beekeeping Store Opens
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 15:01:23 -0500
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Blossomland Supply announces today that it's long anticipated secure
webstore will be online this month. The webstore at www.blossomland.com will
offer over 900+ items to the be securely order online.  Using Visa or
Mastercard with Blossomland's online store will be secure and safe.  No
information is stored on the server thus no unauthorized requests for
information can be obtained.

Everything from beekeeping books, equipment, Pierco Frames and Foundations
to honey and honey candy.  And most of what is in between!!

Check us out today and watch the progress!

Phil Hempel
beeyard@blossomland.com




Article 14893 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: oils for varroa??
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Are using essential oil treatments for varroa mites breeding resistant 
mites or contaminating honey? do these treatments harm the bees?



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From: "John Cook" <jcook@cerulean.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: newbee questions here
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 05:49:48 -0500
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Sorry in advance if these are really lame questions, but everyone has to
start somewhere...

1. I saw the online store site mentioned earlier. They have a starter kit.
Does this kit contain everything that you really need to get started or is
it a $125 that requires an additional $500 worth of stuff to really get
started? This kit doesn't have any sort of suit: just a hood. Is a suit just
a luxury item?

2. Is there a place were you can get mail order bees or at least a queen?
When you get your queen, what is to keep her from just flying away and
setting up house somewhere else? Do bees come in different strains?  If so,
is there a good strain for beginners?

3. Africanized bees are in the news again. I guess they have made their way
into the southwest united states. I live in Boston. How long will it be
before they reach me? Do they take over domestic beehives? What do you do to
get rid of them?

4. I am planning on starting a modest hive. What is the best time of year to
start one? Do you need to supply your own flowering plants? If so, how much
for a small hive?

5. My grandmother use to tell me stories about her father who kept bees. She
said that his bees would wonder off, and he would have to go collect them
from time to time. He would use a stick wrapped with cheesecloth soaked in
syrup to collect them. Is this common?

6. What is the time requirement for keeping a small hive? How often do you
visit the hive?

7. Do people ever get sick from eating their own honey?





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From: wyatt@oeuvre.com (Eugene Wyatt)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: 0 to 60 in Beekeeping
Date: 6 Nov 1998 07:51:01 -0600
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Hello all

My name is Eugene Wyatt.  I am a farmer and I run 500 Merino sheep in 
upstate New York.  I want to make commercial mead (for sale) from honey I 
produce.  I have no experience with bees or beekeeping and I would like to 
learn as much as I can, as fast as I can about commercial honey production. 
Some recommendations please:

1) How would you best approach this project
2) Books and other educational materials
3) Suppliers of bees and equipment
4) Advice, *do's and don't's*
	a. types of bees for my local
	b. cheaper to buy or to make honey
	c. where can one buy honey, prices
	d. Dangers/mistakes to be wary of
	e. ?...

Thanks for your input.

Eugene

Australian Superfine Merino Sheep
    Swan Lake, New York  USA
 http://www.zelacom.com/~wyatt/



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 "John Cook" <jcook@cerulean.com> wrote:
>
>7. Do people ever get sick from eating their own honey?
>

Provided one is not allergic to some substance in the honey when ingested (such
as pollen or the natural chemicals producing the aroma or microscopic bee
hairs) and provided one is not diabetic (honey is mostly sugar), then the risks
are small. However, there are some plants (fortunately few in North America)
whose nectar produces poisonous honey. Mountain Laurel is the worst offender in
the USA. A teaspoon of Mountain Laurel honey may produce numbness and loss of
consciousness for several hours acording to research by E.L. Atkins (1992).
Fortunately, it is possible to move hives to a new location during Mountain
Laurel bloom and thus avoid having your bees collect the nectar.

In most areas in temperate climate, poisonous honeys do not occur. But you
should talk to other beekeepers or agriculture extension agents in your area to
be sure about your own locale.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Paul Kent Oakley
The Sabine Farm
Ava, Illinois (85 miles SE of St.Louis)

send any e-mail to me at:   YELKAO615  at  AOL dot COM

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


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This reminds me fondly of a folkways book written in the 1920's which mentioned
this fact, and stated that the best way to know was after the mountain laural
flow was to fed a comb to the dog, if after a few hours it had not went into
convulsions, then it was ok to fed the honey to  your kids and wife.   Life was
so simple before FDA.

Bob Pursley


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John Cook <jcook@cerulean.com> wrote in article
<71uk74$8n3$1@ligarius.ultra.net>...
> Sorry in advance if these are really lame questions, but everyone has to
> start somewhere...
Best start will be to read a beekeeping handbook.  This will give you some
hind what bees do and what beekeepers do.  Beekeeping is not very
difficult, but without any know how your start will end in a mess.  Books
are perfect to get basic know how.
Or, get a human mentor and learn from him.

To answer some of your questions: 

> 1. I saw the online store site mentioned earlier. They have a starter
kit.
> Does this kit contain everything that you really need to get started or
is
> it a $125 that requires an additional $500 worth of stuff to really get
> started? This kit doesn't have any sort of suit: just a hood. Is a suit
just
> a luxury item?
The starter kit is a joke.  It's like starting a italian restaurant by
buying a package of Kraft dinner.  It won't last for long.
If you realy want to start beekeeping be prepared to spend at least 500
bucks more, but keep in mind that beekeeping is the only hobby which pay
back money by selling honey.
You need at least 1 complete hive (I started with 3, only 1 is not a good
idea for many reasons).  A complete hive is in my eyes a bottom board, 2
broodchambers, 1 honey compartment and a lit.  Even if you don't need the
honey compartment and the 2nd brood chamber to start a hive, it will take a
few weeks in spring and you will desperatly need them. Also it is a good
idea to have a spare hive for catching swarms. Then you need decapper and
extractor to harvest your honey and other stuff to process honey. Not now,
but soon.  Otherwise the honey in the hive will leave unsufficient space
for the bees and then they swarm.  
To work on the bees a hood, smoker, hive tool and a pair of gloves is fine.
 A suit is OK but not essential.  It is more protection for your clothes. 
If you want to save money, here you can do it.
 
> 2. Is there a place were you can get mail order bees or at least a queen?
> When you get your queen, what is to keep her from just flying away and
> setting up house somewhere else? Do bees come in different strains?  If
so,
> is there a good strain for beginners?

Start with a local strain.  They will be suitable for your region.
And, you can't start a hive with only a queen --> read a book why!

> 
> 3. Africanized bees are in the news again. I guess they have made their
way
> into the southwest united states. I live in Boston. How long will it be
> before they reach me? Do they take over domestic beehives? What do you do
to
> get rid of them?

Shouldn't be a problem in Boston, neither become one in the future.  To far
north for them (see discussion earlier this week about the demon-bees, not
the initial posting but the URL in it).

> 5. My grandmother use to tell me stories about her father who kept bees.
She
> said that his bees would wonder off, and he would have to go collect them
> from time to time. He would use a stick wrapped with cheesecloth soaked
in
> syrup to collect them. Is this common?

Part one is true.  Bees swarm occasionally and you have to catch the swarm
(see details in books for why and how).  Part two sounds like a tale to me.

> 6. What is the time requirement for keeping a small hive? How often do
you
> visit the hive?

You have to check a hive once a week during the season to check for health,
brood, honey and swarm cells.  In winter you shouldn't open the hive.  To
check a full hive a beginner might need 30-40 min.?
 
> 7. Do people ever get sick from eating their own honey?

Honey is food and must be processed like food.  Clean!
Other reasons like poison honey and allergies are exotic or not restricted
to your own honey.

I would suggest that you get contact with a local beekeeper or beekeepers
club for practical advice and, more important read something about bees and
beekeeping to get an idea what is going on inside a hive and what work you
can expect before starting your own hive.





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>Some recommendations please:
>
>1) How would you best approach this project
>2) Books and other educational materials
>3) Suppliers of bees and equipment
>4) Advice, *do's and don't's*
>	a. types of bees for my local
>	b. cheaper to buy or to make honey
>	c. where can one buy honey, prices
>	d. Dangers/mistakes to be wary of
>	e. ?...
>
>Thanks for your input.
1. slowly since mead needs to age at least 3 yrs before drinking, 5 yrs is
better

2. there are many i-net sites just search, try library for books, also call
1-800-beeswax
for a super catalog

3. 1-800-beeswax
4. read all you can then mail me back, be glad to help but you need a basic
knowledge.
b,c,d. if all you are going to do is make mead, then you're better off buying
your honey from local beekeepers, then the only hassle you have is with the
mead process.

hope this helps, l8r
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


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From: beetim@budget.net (tim)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Oxytetracycline residues in honey.
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 19:48:07 GMT
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  A Reference i haven't access to but would be of interest.
Matsuka, M., and Nakamura, K. (1990) Oxytetracycline residues in honey
and royal jelly. Journal of Apicultural Research 29:112-117.  
 
 I note that while meats are given a tolerance
level [21CFR 556.500 : (The corrections or additions to the January 15,
1996 list were made in November 1996)] , honey is only mentioned
in the withdrawal and application sections.(US)

  As of 1994 the US gov knew no method for testing
other than for general antibacterial properties. As far
as i can find, there is none yet. Nor limit guides.
http://www.fda.gov/cvm/fda/os/tocosar95.html
  
  For those interested in testing labs that deal with
honey the National Honey Board keeps a list of
various labs and methods. As of a few of weeks
ago it was alliable by snail mail only.

  While i hear form the grapevine it is almost a non issue
due to its half life in the presence of moisture and/or heat,
I find no references in print applying this to honey. tim


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As mentioned,  You have a computer so make you own. 
You can get copywrite free graphics from many sources
to include the National Honey board.   (check out their
webb site)
Pick something you like, do in up and take it to your
local discount office supply store (Office Depot)  We
use black ink on a gold foil label.  We print our logo,
company name, address, Phone and weight.  It runs about
$33 per 500 labels (It might have been for 1000)  turn
around time is about 5 working days.

Note that it is a requiorement to have your name and a
contact on the label either address and or phone
number. weights must be in US and metric.  1 pint jar
holds about 1 pound of honey = 450g, 12oz bear = 340g,
1 quart jar holds 2.5 lbs or 1.13kg.

The weights must be consistant. If you label the jar in
volume pint,quart then the metric need to be liter.  If
you label by weight the use grams and kilograms.  The
is a webb site www. massgrown.org used to have a copy
of the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services
Food labeling guide.  The guide spells out the type
size requirements for various labels.  For example the
weight must be a certain proportion to the area of the
label.  We use a 2 by 3 label or 6 sq.in.  The min type
size is 1/8in or 3.2mm.

A easier way to solve your problem is to fax a copy to
your states Comsumer Protection Office.  In Georgia it
is part of our Agriculture Department. I faxed them the
label, they told us what to change (ie 2.5lbs to 2lbs
8oz) and told us the metric weight weight to use. they
then gave us a letter of approval on the label. They
were more than willing to help and we have the
confidence to our retailers that the label and
botteling is up to the State standards.

It sound like a lot but it only took 2 days to do it
all.

Hope this helps.... Al Welk Atlanta, GA

Michael Scott Meiners wrote:
> 
> I've finaly run out of honey jar labels which my dad bought in bulk back in
> the 80's.  I'm looking to but some more but I can not find anybody that
> sells them.  Any suggestions on where to look?  Thanks,
> -Mike


Article 14902 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: beecrofter@aol.com (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: newbee questions here
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   Has anybody directly experianced poisoning from moutain laurel honey or is
it all theory and hearsay?
   Seems to me the rest of the years blooming plants would make this somewhat
dilute.


Article 14903 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Jorn Johanesson" <apimo@apimo.dk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: BeeKeeping Software
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 02:45:59 +0100
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Pa Beeman skrev i meddelelsen
<19981101114150.10603.00002504@ng-fb2.aol.com>...
>Does any one know of any software for beekeeping.

try:

try www.apimo.dk  or http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo or
http://wn.com.au/apimo

hivenotesoftware for beekeeping and queenbreading, pollensoftware and some
pollenpictures.


best regards

Jorn Johanesson
apimo@apimo.dk
apimo@post4.inet.tele.dk
apimo@wn.com.au






Article 14904 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: skep615@aol.com (SKEP615)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Demon Possession digression
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amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel) wrote:
>
>So, Paul, would you similarly deny the historicity of the following 
>account about Caesar?

This is the wrong forum to continue this discussion, Peter. I have answered via
personal e-mail.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Paul Kent Oakley
The Sabine Farm
Ava, Illinois (85 miles SE of St.Louis)

send any e-mail to me at:   YELKAO615  at  AOL dot COM

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Article 14905 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Michael Simics" <msimics@direct.ca>
Subject: Re: Honey Labels
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Hello Mike,  I am in the process of getting new honey labels for myself. I
was lucky enough to meet a beekeeper who is a graphic artist and we are
collaborating to put together some pretty spiffy labels- full color no less
, the peel and stick type ( I know there is an industry word for that but
it escapes me now).  Send me your address and I will send you a sample when
they are done.  We are hoping to make them available at Apimondia 99  in
Vancouver, Canada.  This is really exciting for me as in the past I hand
made labels.  I am no artist and the closest compliment I got was   "Oh,
you made these yourself !"

Darlene
dags@lightspeed.bc.ca

Michael Scott Meiners <meinerms@email.uc.edu> wrote in article
<4w8%1.421$CM.2615@newsfeed.slurp.net>...
> I've finaly run out of honey jar labels which my dad bought in bulk back
in
> the 80's.  I'm looking to but some more but I can not find anybody that
> sells them.  Any suggestions on where to look?  Thanks,
> -Mike
> 
> 
> 


Article 14906 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: jcaldeira@earthlink.net (John Caldeira)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Apian technology(queens)
Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 17:48:47 GMT
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"Flemming Rasmussen" <flemmin_@post10.tele.dk> wrote:
>Is there any one who had tried "Apian technology Queens breeding
>system"?.The company are from New Zealand. Is it god?Does it have any "dark"
>sides?Do it keep what thei promise in there comerserial?
>
>Regards Flemming Rasmussen .Denmark.
> flemmin_@post10.tele.dk

Apian's queen rearing kit seems very similar to the Jenter queen
rearing kit from Germany.  I haven't used Apian's kit, but the Jenter
kit is a good way to raise queens without learning to graft larva.

The cell plug queen rearing method is described on my website (URL
below).   

Here in the U.S., The Apian kit sells for more than twice the cost of
the Jenter kit, but perhaps it has some advantage. 

Cheers,
John


John Caldeira
Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/



Article 14907 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@golux.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Toxic Honey (was Re: newbee questions here)
Date: 7 Nov 1998 06:45:16 -0000
Organization: Self-Organized.      Dig that.
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In article <19981106181208.17259.00004880@ng125.aol.com>,
BeeCrofter <beecrofter@aol.com> wrote:
>   Has anybody directly experianced poisoning from moutain laurel honey or is
>it all theory and hearsay?
>   Seems to me the rest of the years blooming plants would make this somewhat
>dilute.

Our lab at Virginia Tech had the last recorded USA finding of Honey from
_Kalmia_ _latifolia_ (Mountain Laurel).

The following is a letter from the bee-l that Dr. Rick Fell wrote regarding
these findings and on toxic honey in general.

___________________________________________________________________________

Date:         Fri, 4 Aug 1995 16:55:03 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@UACSC2.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@UACSC2.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Rick Fell <rfell@VT.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Honey and Bee History query

Diane:
In reference to your query I can offer a few comments since we have
recently done some work with honey containing naturally toxic compounds.
First, the reference to toxic bees may be somewhat misleading, unless they
are referring to the sting. However, honey bees have been used in warfare,
dating as far back as Roman times.  There are for example, references to
the Romans loading bee hives on catapults and firing them at their
enemies.  Other records can be found from the Middle Ages, where various
armies threw bee hives at their attackers - especially off of castle
walls, and on up through World War I and Vietnam.  A good reference for
for this topic is "Insects in Warfare" by John Ambrose (published in Army
24(12):33-38.)

With regard to toxic honey, there is also a long history.  One of the
earliest references comes from the writings of the Greek Xenophon
(approx.  400 B.C.) who described the effects of soldiers eating a toxic
honey.  The incident occurred in what is now Turkey.  The soldiers were
returning to Greece from a campaign in the Persian Empire, encountered the
hives and robbed them of their honey.  Xenophon indicated that the
soldiers who consumed the honey lost thier senses, and were inflicted with
"vomiting and purging".  A later reference indicates that the honey of
that region was also used against soldiers of the Roman army under
Pompey.  The Heptakometes left jars of the honey along the roadside as a
"tribute" to some of the advancing army.  The soldiers who ate the honey
lost their senses and were easily defeated by the Heptakometes.  The
source of this toxic honey in the Middle East is probably Rhondodendron
ponticum, although R. luteum could also be a source.  A good reference to
the toxic honey of this region is Sutlupinar et al. 1993. Poisoning by
toxic honey in Turkey, Arch. Toxicol. 67:148-150.

There are several references to toxic honeys in the US.  The earliest
record of which I am aware dates back to Philadelphia in 1790, when a
child died from eating honey.  There are also references from the Civil
War and from the 1940's and 1960's.  The most recent report is the one we
found here in Virginia.  A beekeeper became violently ill after comsuming
some honey from his hives and ended up spending 6 days in the local
hospital.  We were contacted about the possibility of the honey causing
the problems and subsequently analyzed the honey.  We found two
grayanotoxins (primarily nerve toxins that lead to a prolonged
depolarization of the nerve)  in the honey in sufficient levels to cause
very serious medical problems.  Based on the time of year, the area in
which the honey was made, and the toxins, we believe the source was Kalmia
latifolia (Mountain laurel).  This type of toxic honey is not common but
seems to be reported once about every 20 or 30 years.

There are a number of other plants that produce nectars with various
toxins.  Some of these include Yellow jassamine, tansy ragwort, and
Egyptian henbane. If you would like more infromation on plants and
specific toxins, please let me know.  Hope this answers some of your
questions.

Rick Fell
__________________________________________________________________________

his email is rfell@vt.edu


Since _Kalmia_ spp. produces nectar when most other honey-flow nectar is
produces in huge quantities, the chances of "making" poisoned honey as a
beekeeper are very slim. Still, if you suspect your honey, get it tested. 

Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein                   
adamf@vt.edu              
http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/adamf


Article 14908 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: beecrofter@aol.com (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Toxic Honey (was Re: newbee questions here)
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>Since _Kalmia_ spp. produces nectar when most other honey-flow nectar is
>produces in huge quantities, the chances of "making" poisoned honey as a
>beekeeper are very slim. Still, if you suspect your honey, get it tested. 

Sounds like good sense to me
In the meantime I will worry more about getting burned by the smoker or
wrenching my back lifting hives.

Tom


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From: beecrofter@aol.com (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Honey Labels
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Betterbee has a good selection
The skep label looks nice on a mason jar.


Article 14910 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: workerbee <dvisrael@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Blue Honey
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 10:18:00 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------FCC7AF0DA4F7D0B0BEF0B1DC
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have recieved a lot of mail asking about blue honey. Thanks to all.
Most just want to know about it, so I am sending thia along.

--------------FCC7AF0DA4F7D0B0BEF0B1DC
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii; name="Blue honey.htm"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="Blue honey.htm"
Content-Base: "file:///C|/My%20Documents/Blue%20honey
	.htm"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
   <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
   <META NAME="Author" CONTENT="workerbee">
   <META NAME="GENERATOR" CONTENT="Mozilla/4.06 [en] (Win95; I) [Netscape]">
   <TITLE>My Web Page</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<FONT SIZE=+2><FONT COLOR="#000099">Blue Honey&nbsp;</FONT><FONT COLOR="#33CCFF"></FONT></FONT>
<BR><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>Blue honey has a fairly strong
flavor and is so dark it is hard to see through.The best way to view it
is to put a few drops on a white saucer. No one knows for sure what makes
it blue. Several ideas are tossed about but it seems to happen when we
have a really good bloom of sourwood here in Eastern North Carolina. The
honey I have was produced in Macclesfield, NC about 80 miles east of Raleigh.
No other beekeepers in our association reported getting any. The bees only
make it every five or ten years and it is spotty then. There are reports
of some being made last year in South Carolina.</FONT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--------------FCC7AF0DA4F7D0B0BEF0B1DC--




Article 14911 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: allend@internode.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Aging Mead
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 15:56:53 GMT
Organization: Deja News - The Leader in Internet Discussion
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In article <19981106161558.15692.00000166@ng113.aol.com>,
  hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan) or someone claiming to be him wrote:

> 1. slowly since mead needs to age at least 3 yrs before drinking, 5 yrs is
> better

Hmmmm.	I've been making and drinking meaqd for many years now, and cannot
agree with this.  A good mead is drinkable in as little as two months.	The
trick is to use an adequate amount of yeast nutrient, since meads may 'stick'
for months and months otherwise.  300-400 ml (g) per 40 imp gallons seems
right when making a 15% (dry) mead.  (This is *way* more than other beverages
require and will raise eyebrows at your local wine supply store, but ignore
that and trust me.  And BTW, they are not going to like you much, since you
won't be spending much money there -- you'll only need yeast, acid blend,
dibasic ammonium phosphate (nutrient), and -- if you are feeling rich -- some
energizer).  Saccaromyses bayanus (Lalvin EC1118) is the yeast of choice.

Granted, at this young stage (several months), the mead may be murky.  This
is easily overcome by the eager early taster (imbiber) if the mead portion
for drinking is stored in the refrigerator for a week or so before drinking
to stop the yeasts and allow them to drop out.

After 5 months or so, it should be pretty well finished and can be filtered
(recommended - rent a filter at your local wine supply store) and then is
prime for drinking.  Aging can improve it, but no one complains about mine at
that point and it is hard to keep it long enuff to say what it would be like
after a year or two. :)

> if all you are going to do is make mead, then you're better off buying
> your honey from local beekeepers, then the only hassle you have is with the
> mead process.

True.  And you get to choose the honey that way.  My advise: buy the nicest,
cleanest, mildest, whitest honey you can find.  Then experiment with the
varietals.  Buckwheat makes a dynamite mead, for example, but start with white
and mild.

Allen

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


Article 14912 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: steven.turner@zbee.com (Steven Turner)
To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Apinet (beekeeping education network) 
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Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 16:48:24 GMT
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Apinet-L mailing list has undergone software changes which means
information on how to join "Apinet" is now incorrect and need to
be updated by owners of beekeeping web sites.
To Subscribe to Apinet you send a message to:
mailserver@zbee.com
    Subject: <leave blank>
MessageBody: subscribe apinetL

Or send a message to:
apinetL@zbee.com

     Subject: subscribe
 Messagebody: <leave blank>

Any queries E-mail sysop@zbee.com







STEVEN TURNER 
G6LPF Beekeeper/gardener Sysop of ZBeeNet BBS. 
http://www.beeman.dircon.co.uk/ 
Email: beeman@zbee.com

... Platinum Xpress & Wildcat!..... Nice!!!!


Article 14913 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: pabeeman@aol.com (Pa Beeman)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Honey Recipe
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Does any one have a good home made ice-cream recipe with honey.


                                                          Thanks Pa Beeman


Article 14914 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Bill Greenrose <bill.greenrose@valley.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: to wrap or not to wrap?
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greetings, all.

in this month's issue of bee culture brad kurtz gives a number of
reasons why wrapping a hive is not a good idea.  these include reduced
air flow and subsequent increase of moisture to harmful levels.  for the
same reasons he advises not to use an entrance reducer.   next week i'll
be removing the apistan strips and putting the girls to bed for the
winter.  i was planning to wrap my 2 hives in tar paper [roofing felt]
like i did last year.  but, now i'm not so sure. so, i thought i'd ask
the group for opinions.

personally, i'm not so sure it's a good idea.  here in new hampshire it
gets fairly cold.  last winter i noticed that on bright sunny days, when
the air temp was only in the teens or 20's, my bees would come out for
cleansing flights.  it was cold enough, that many of them never made it
back to the hive, dropping to the snow and melting little graves into
it.  not trying to over emotionalize this, and i know that the colony
population declines naturally through a good portion of the winter,
until the new brood mature.  but, it seems that the bees might have been
fooled into thinking it was warmer out than it really was, from the
heating of the hive by bright sun on black tar paper.  thus, more died
outside the hive than should have.  i do think that an entrance reducer
makes sense for the winter, since the normal opening is a lot larger
than the bees normally maintain in the wild, and the reducer probably
helps cut the wind whipping into the hive.  but, given brad's arguments
in his article [applying the physics of heat transfer and air flow] and
my own observations, i'm inclined not to wrap my hives this year.

any body have any opinions?

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




Article 14915 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Bill Greenrose wrote:
> 
> in this month's issue of bee culture brad kurtz gives a number of
> reasons why wrapping a hive is not a good idea.  these include reduced
> air flow and subsequent increase of moisture to harmful levels.  for the
> same reasons he advises not to use an entrance reducer.   

Everything is a balence.. give and take...Entrance reducers will limit
air flow. But they also discourage mice from moving in. The most
important thing is to have the upper entrance open to let moisture out
if you wrap.

> gets fairly cold.  last winter i noticed that on bright sunny days, when
> the air temp was only in the teens or 20's, my bees would come out for
> cleansing flights.  it was cold enough.

Here in Canada the biggest benifit I think that comes from wrapping and
insulating hives is that it keeps sharp temperature changes from
catching the bees off guard. It can go from 0 to 35 below in a 12-24
hour period.


> fooled into thinking it was warmer out than it really was, from the
> heating of the hive by bright sun on black tar paper.  thus, more died
> outside the hive than should have. 

I have only been keeping bees for ten years, and consistently the more I
learn the more I realize how little I know. I always check with
neighboring beekeepers to see what has worked historically, then I make
my decision..I will say that we do not see that many bees frozen in
front of our hives. For the most part they seem to have a system that
works, to get them through winter. When we have a deadout we always find
them inside the hive, never frozen in the snow. 

They make cleansing flights even in our climate and most make it back to
the hive. Dead bees are removed all winter on nice days, and because
they are dark they will make melted spots in the snow even though they 
are already dead.
> 
> any body have any opinions?
> 
Lastly these are only opinions from a colder climate than you seem to
reside in. So it is probably a different game there. I will say though
that when we try to winter indoors ( maybe closer to a climate like
yours with bees wrapped) we are not as successful as wintering outside.


Hugh Tait
Boschman Hughes Apiaries

 "When the going gets weird... the weird turn pro"         Hunter S.
Thompson


Article 14916 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Tom Speight <Tom@tomsp8.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: extracters
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 23:48:59 +0000
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In article <3646378E.2EAB@kingston.net>, Kent Stienburg
<beeman@kingston.net> writes
>My question is if there are 10 frames in a box
>why do the popular hobby extracters come in sizes of 4, 6,9,12? Why not
>5,10 15? 
I think the main reason is working out the angle to set evenly between
frame holders to keep the balance right. 
It's much easier to set 90, 60, 40, or 30 degrees than 72, 36, or 24
degrees when doing assmbly line type production.
If you DIY and are prepared to set up your own angles there is no reason
why not. Some of the industrial types take 20 frames or more.
Regards
-- 
Tom S


Article 14917 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: elizc@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Honey Labels
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 22:10:56 GMT
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> Michael Scott Meiners wrote in message
> <4w8%1.421$CM.2615@newsfeed.slurp.net>...
> >I've finaly run out of honey jar labels which my dad bought in bulk back in
> >the 80's.  I'm looking to but some more but I can not find anybody that
> >sells them.  Any suggestions on where to look?  Thanks,
> >-Mike

Hi!

I don't keep bees yet but am just starting to gather info. I have a tip about
labels that might interest some of you. My husband brews beer, and we make
labels by printing (laser printer, copy machine, whatever) our labels on
regular copier paper and adhering them to the glass bottles by painting the
back with milk. It really works! And they come off easily just by soaking
them.

We happen to use 1% or 2% milk since that's what we have. I can't remember if
skim will work or not.

fwiw,
Liz
elizc@my-dejanews.com

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


Article 14918 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Pavel Goberman <getfit@pcez.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Killer Bees?
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 22:57:17 -0800
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Killer Bees? People who created this expression do not know the biology
of bees,and have no experience how to work with bees,how manage them.
  Pavel Goberman    mailto:getfit@getenergized.com


Article 14919 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Simon Morris & Wanda Douglas <si-wand@ihug.co.nz>
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You need to make sure that when you transfer the bees into the new home,
that you also transfer the queen.  To ensure that she remains in the
hive long enough to "settle in", block the entrance for a short time.
The majority of the bees will be gathering around her in a protective
'cocoon' so she should be quite easy to spot.

Hope that helps; I think I am probably telling you what you already
know  ... I probably can't assist more than that!



mmoktan wrote:

>   I have set up several beehives at home. Some bees seem to not want
> to stay in a new hive set up for them. I brought in new bees and set
> them up in a new hive. But they seem to leave. Is this a problem that
> can be solved? Any information could be helpful. Hridai.



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<BODY BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF">
You need to make sure that when you transfer the bees into the new home,
that you also transfer the queen.&nbsp; To ensure that she remains in the
hive long enough to "settle in", block the entrance for a short time.&nbsp;
The majority of the bees will be gathering around her in a protective 'cocoon'
so she should be quite easy to spot.

<P>Hope that helps; I think I am probably telling you what you already
know&nbsp; ... I probably can't assist more than that!
<BR>&nbsp;
<BR>&nbsp;

<P>mmoktan wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;&nbsp;<FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>I
have set up several beehives at home. Some bees seem to not want to stay
in a new hive set up for them. I brought in new bees and set them up in
a new hive. But they seem to leave. Is this a problem that can be solved?
Any information could be helpful.</FONT></FONT>&nbsp;<FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>Hridai.</FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;
</BODY>
</HTML>

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Article 14920 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Wanda Douglas wrote:

> I know that the majority of New Zealand beekeepers do not heat their honey
> when transferring it from the hive to the jar.  As far as I know, most is
> removed from the frames by centrifugal force, and simply drips down to the vat
> where it is piped into containers for selling.

If the honey is piped, likely it is pumped. If it is pumped, it is heated.  Honey
is too viscous to be pumped without heating.

> If the honey is to be creamed,
> common policy here is that it is heated to a high temperature for but a few
> short seconds, then cooled quickly.  This ensures that the crystals that are
> formed are small, and that the honey doesn't granulate.

Crystals *are* granulation.

Kathy



Article 14921 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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does anyone know  how long it takes for bees to stuff themselves before
swarming?  a matter of minutes, a whole day?  Do they have extensive
preparations before they take off to find a new hive?  Is it usually
about half the bees in an overcrowded colony who take off- or less than
half- or more than half?  Will they only usually swarm in spring- to
early summer?  Will they swarm in mid-summer?  Do they usually only
swarm on warm sunny days?  Will they swarm on cool cloudy days that look
like rain?  Will they swarm on windy days?  Will they swarm after dark? 
Are they more likely to swarm in the morning or evening or at the
hottest part of the day?

I know that's a lot of questions.  I have found a lot of general
information on swarms on the internet but nothing that covers all these
specifics.  Thanks very much to anyone who can answer a few or all of
these questions, or who can direct me to a location or book title which
has such specific information.  Thank you.

Tamara


Article 14922 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Article 14923 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to find local beekeepers??
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>nyone know some good places I could look??  Thanks!!

contact your county/state agri agent, they should be able to help for sure
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 14924 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: How to find local beekeepers??
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Just call your local police station and ask whom they call when there are
stray swarms of bees.   Joe




Article 14925 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "William White" <ww2445@cnsvax.albany.edu>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to find local beekeepers??
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Ok, thanks, I found a good one through my local Homebrew shop though.
Thanks for the assistance!!

                            -Will




Article 14926 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees?
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 17:56:35 -0800
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Yes, I was criticised by a guy in Africa in email the other day for 
proclaiming that "killer bees" were demon-possessed; he said that saying 
something like this might make people continue to hate them, even though 
he told me they are really very good bees when properly kept.


In article <36414D36.5280@pcez.com>, getfit@pcez.com says...
> Killer Bees? No! You must to know how to manage bees.
>  P.G.
> 


Article 14927 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Charles Soderquist <CVSoderquist@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: extracters
Date: 11 Nov 1998 00:47:13 GMT
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Tom Speight wrote:
> 
> In article <3646378E.2EAB@kingston.net>, Kent Stienburg
> <beeman@kingston.net> writes
> >My question is if there are 10 frames in a box
> >why do the popular hobby extracters come in sizes of 4, 6,9,12? Why not
> >5,10 15?
> I think the main reason is working out the angle to set evenly between
> frame holders to keep the balance right.
> It's much easier to set 90, 60, 40, or 30 degrees than 72, 36, or 24
> degrees when doing assmbly line type production.
> If you DIY and are prepared to set up your own angles there is no reason
> why not. Some of the industrial types take 20 frames or more.
> Regards
> --
> Tom S
4,6,9,12 are some of the factors of 360 the number of degrees in a
circle.


Article 14928 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: andy.nachbaur@calwest.net (Andy Nachbaur)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees?
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 02:42:01 GMT
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On Tue, 10 Nov 1998 07:42:33 -0800, Dominic Ebacher
<jebacher@uswest.net> wrote:

>My esteemed collegue,
>
>    It seems to me that an animal that causes death more violently and
>frequently than other varities sharing the same species name might be
>rationally considered a "killer" variety.  They are a more agressive form
>of apis mellifera x and they are quicker to react and more persistent after
>being aroused.  These bees are malicious when disturbed, and despite the
>successes of the Brazilian bee consortium, this species is a clear and
>present danger to individuals within its range.

Mr. Dominic Ebacher,

Problem with this kind of thinking is the facts don't support it at
least here  in the US. Before the arrivals of the so called "killer"
bee we had experienced more deaths from bee stings then after their
arrival.

The big change is that today in the US is that a swarm of bees is
front page news and any bee stinging episode will go out on the wire
services and be picked up by hundreds of newspapers. The actual
numbers of contacts have not changed just the interest and publication
of them thanks to the hype of those who for what ever reason have
found it to their advantage to expand and enlarge the story of the
"killer" bees when in fact any bee that kills you is a indeed a
"killer" no matter what its race, religion, or national origin the
same as any bee the stings is aggressive in defending whatever its
defending including a bare foot from crushing it..

 BTW, I may not be your colleague but I must ask what is this
"Brazilian bee consortium" you mentioned?

ttul, the OLd Drone
Los Banos, California
http://beenet.com 

(c)Permission is given to copy this document 
in any form, or to print for any use.

(w)OPINIONS are not necessarily facts. USE  AT OWN RISK!


Article 14929 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Kent Stienburg <beeman@kingston.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: extracters
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 16:30:07 -0800
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Hi All,
I have a question regarding extracters.  I recently build my own this
year(6 frame radial) and installed a motor.  Thanks to all who helped me
with my motor RPM selection.  It went so well that I am thinking of
building another one.  My question is if there are 10 frames in a box
why do the popular hobby extracters come in sizes of 4, 6,9,12? Why not
5,10 15? 
-- 
Kent Stienburg
Remove NOSPAM to reply.


Article 14930 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees?
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 18:19:14 -0800
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Of course it should be understood that in cases of demon possession, that 
killing the demon possessed thing does not kill the occupying demon, so 
even if "killer bees" are demon possessed, this does not mean that they 
should be killed. As recounted at Genesis 6:4, when the angelic entities 
disobediently took the form of human males so they could marry and have 
sexual relations with human females, this led to the presence on earth of 
their terrible offspring, the "Nephilim" and all this badness led to 
God's decision to flood the earth. At the time the angels disobediently 
possessed human males they became demons and when these possessed men 
died in the flood the demons escaped out of the drowning bodies.


In article <MPG.10b28eafdbc7bcb49896fa@news.pe.net>, amschelp@pe.net 
says...
> Yes, I was criticised by a guy in Africa in email the other day for 
> proclaiming that "killer bees" were demon-possessed; he said that saying 
> something like this might make people continue to hate them, even though 
> he told me they are really very good bees when properly kept.
> 
> 
> In article <36414D36.5280@pcez.com>, getfit@pcez.com says...
> > Killer Bees? No! You must to know how to manage bees.
> >  P.G.
> > 
> 


Article 14931 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: beecrofter@aol.com (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees?
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  Much easier to sell newsprint and air time with a feature on Killer bees than
a feature on pollination.
  Until the pollination is gone because the media inspired fools to kill swarms
and feral colonies.
   


Article 14932 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: 097323692-0001@t-online.de (Juergen Kerzinger)
Newsgroups: alt.creative-cooking,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: candy fruits
Date: 1 Nov 1998 08:00:09 GMT
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Hi everyone,
doe some body know how to candy  fruits, possible with honey?

Thanks a lot ,  George


Article 14933 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "samduke" <samduke@farlep.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: ПОСТОЯННО ПОКУПАЕМ ЗЕРНОВЫЕ В БОЛЬШИХ КОЛИЧЕСТВАХ
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 13:23:44 +0300
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Пшеница фуражная
Ячмень фуражный
Зерно подсолнечника
  Пшеница продовольственная (кл.min 25,проросшесть не допускается)

тел\факсы 0482 234923
                               496391
E-mail:samduke@farlep.net






Article 14934 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: aengus1@aol.com (Aengus1)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Historical aspects of beekeeping
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Greetings all,
I am interested in learning more on the historical aspects of beekeeping,
particularly pre 1600. My local libraries don't have much information on the
subject and interlibrary loans have proved to be less than useful.

Can any of you refer me to books/publications that can aid me in my research?
Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Dave

http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/5031


Article 14935 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Pavel Goberman <getfit@pcez.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Killer Bees?
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 23:01:10 -0800
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Killer Bees? No! You must to know how to manage bees.
 P.G.


Article 14936 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: Simon Morris & Wanda Douglas <si-wand@ihug.co.nz>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: IS honey RAW?
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 22:52:18 +1300
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I know that the majority of New Zealand beekeepers do not heat their honey
when transferring it from the hive to the jar.  As far as I know, most is
removed from the frames by centrifugal force, and simply drips down to the vat
where it is piped into containers for selling.  If the honey is to be creamed,
common policy here is that it is heated to a high temperature for but a few
short seconds, then cooled quickly.  This ensures that the crystals that are
formed are small, and that the honey doesn't granulate.

Hope that helps!

Wanda.

Richard Yates wrote:

> Kidney John wrote:
> > On Tue, 06 Oct 1998 16:50:37 -0300, yunxiang@vt.edu wrote:
> > >Ron Schmidt wrote:
> > >> I have heard that most honey is heated up at some part of the process
> > >> of getting it from the hive into a bottle.
> > >> I just want to know if this is mostly true or not.
>
> > >The term 'raw' refers more to the filtration of the honey than heating.
> > >Raw honey will contain active pollen, bee parts, and other fine
> > >particles. The honey may have been crudely filtered, if at all (i.e.
> > >wire strainer or ladies' hosiery-preferably unused).
>
> Most UK hobbyists only strain their honey, with the possible exception
> of any unfortunates who have Rape honey solidified in the comb. If Rape
> honey (or other) has been heated excessively, anyone whose palate can
> distinguish, say, white wine from battery acid, would know immediately.
>
> As a hobbyist, I would dispute any suggestion that the honey I extract
> contains pollen, except for that in suspension in the capped cells of
> honey, and be outraged at any suggestion that it containd *any* "bee
> parts", or other particles. Wax, maybe. Not much of that, either.
>
> So: Manage your hive to exclude brood from supers. Select frames with
> at least 85% ripe honey. Uncap, extract whilst still warm from the hive.
> Strain into settling tank (coarse screen, fine screen, possibly cheese-
> cloth or similar); allow to settle for 24hrs (wax rises with air
> bubbles),
> put in jars. The first jar and the last jar or two may contain a little
> wax, these can be kept back for personal consumption, rather than gifts
> and (few) sales which is where most jars seem to go!
>
> Of course, it *may* be different for the commercial beekeepers, if
> there are any left in the UK, & abroad may again be different!
>
> Richard.
> --
> Erratic news-swerver! :. post+e-mail to be sure I get your msg.
>
> The Open University is not responsible for content herein, which
> may be incorrect and is used at reader's own risk.



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Article 14937 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: bibleBlack@starless.com.au (Andy White)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Honey Recipe
Message-ID: <bibleBlack-1111980057420001@exip-t-006-p-208-12.tmns.net.au>
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In article <19981108080118.28890.00000850@ng114.aol.com>, pabeeman@aol.com
(Pa Beeman) wrote:

> Does any one have a good home made ice-cream recipe with honey.
> 
> 
>                                                           Thanks Pa Beeman

Here's one that is a bit involved - but worth the effort.

ingredients:

part a

1 lb almond flour, toasted (either buy it as flour and toast lightly,
or blanch, peel, taost and crush yourself)

1 lb honey

.5 lb sugar (or just use more honey)

5 egg whites

==============
part b

1.25 lb thickened cream

4 egg yokes

1 cup castor sugar (or again, just use more honey)

=============

method:

part a:
=======

heat sugar and honey until 'feathery' when spooned (don't take your eyes
off this, it will burn quickly). beat whites until stiff, stir (fold) into
syrup, remove from heat. add almond flour. set aside.

part b:
=======

beat yokes and sugar until thick, warm cream in a pan, whisk in yoke
mixture over heat, keep on heat until sliughtly thickened - do not boil.
remove from heat, stir in almond mixture to taste - (test as you go)

pour into plastic bucket with lid, put in the freezer - when partly
frozen, beat well in mixer - then refreeze and wait.

This is not a whimpy ice cream - it requires a healthy commitment to
cholestorol!

Andy White

-- 
bibleBlack@starless.com.au


Article 14938 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Message-ID: <36485EE8.B817FD18@uswest.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 07:42:33 -0800
From: Dominic Ebacher <jebacher@uswest.net>
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My esteemed collegue,

    It seems to me that an animal that causes death more violently and
frequently than other varities sharing the same species name might be
rationally considered a "killer" variety.  They are a more agressive form
of apis mellifera x and they are quicker to react and more persistent after
being aroused.  These bees are malicious when disturbed, and despite the
successes of the Brazilian bee consortium, this species is a clear and
present danger to individuals within its range.

Yours Truly,


Dominic Ebacher

Pavel Goberman wrote:

> Killer Bees? People who created this expression do not know the biology
> of bees,and have no experience how to work with bees,how manage them.
>   Pavel Goberman    mailto:getfit@getenergized.com



Article 14939 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: skep615@aol.com (SKEP615)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees?
Lines: 16
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder03.news.aol.com
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:14939

ebacherdom@triax.com wrote:

>These bees are malicious when disturbed [...]

Better not to make their motivations into human ones. They may be very
defensive. But the word 'malicious' implies that they INTEND to cause pain,
injury or distress. That hardly describes an instinctual protective action.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Paul Kent Oakley
The Sabine Farm
Ava, Illinois (85 miles SE of St.Louis)

send any e-mail to me at:   YELKAO615  at  AOL dot COM

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Article 14940 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "mountbee" <mountbee@iafrica.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: I need info about Beekeeping Shows in the U.K.
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 12:15:06 +0200
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Hi there fellow beekeepers

Could someone help me with inforamtion about anual Beekeeping Shows or
conventions in the U.K.
My company Mountain Bee Products would really like to introduce our
fantastic range of protective garments for Beekeepers to the British
Beekeeping public at large.
There are already quite a number of Beekeepers in the U.K. using our range,
mainly the Mountain Beekeepers Suit.

Any information will be greatly valued

Many thanks  ROBIN J. MOUNTAIN          mountbee@iafrica.com



begin 666 Mountain Bee Products Page.url
M6TEN=&5R;F5T4VAO<G1C=71=#0I54DP]:'1T<#HO+W=W=RYB:7)K97DN8V]M
M+T),0B]"965K965P:6YG+VUO=6YT86EN+FAT;6P-"DUO9&EF:65D/3(P.35"
/-D-!,D0Y-D)$,#%"-@T*
`
end



Article 14941 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Nosema locustae
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 98 07:57:09 EST
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:14941

In article <#X9cr##C#GA.154@upnetnews03>
"gmagruder" <gmagruder@email.msn.com> writes:
 
>
>... serious outbreak of grasshoppers ...
>
>A recommended control is the natural occuring bioinsecticide, Nosema
>locustae, marketed under the tradename Noloc.  The EPA fact list on this
>protozoan microbial insecticide states that there is no known acute impact
>on honeybees....
>
>Greg Magruder
>
 
The protozoa that cause nosema disease in honeybees is Nosema apis.
According to the label on Noloc, the protoza is Nosema locustae.  I would
guess they are different buggers and assume the label is correct.  This is
similar to the discussion on BT (Baccillus therungesis (sp?)) - different
strains of BT are required to control diffferent pests.  Although BT is
bacteria and nosema is protoza, I assume the "targeting biology" is the
same.
 
Aaron Morris - thinking, "Different strokes for different folks!"


Article 14942 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: 0 to 60 in Beekeeping
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In article <MPG.10acc8a4e33f3eed9897a0@news1.newscene.com>, wyatt@oeuvre.com
(Eugene Wyatt) writes:

>I am a farmer and I run 500 Merino sheep in 
>upstate New York.  I want to make commercial mead (for sale) from honey I 
>produce.  I have no experience with bees or beekeeping and I would like to 
>learn as much as I can, as fast as I can about commercial honey production. 
>Some recommendations please:

    Most commercial beekeepers in your area are migratory (north/south, and
more and more, even within the region, for different crops). This is an effort
to survive in the business and economic forces bring them to this choice. So,
unless you intend to discontinue sheep, they are incompatible pursuits, and you
may find it best not to jump into commercial beekeeping. 

   You are in an area that makes some of the finest honeys in the world, and
the market is depressed right now. Many commercial beekeepers are sitting on
their crop, hoping for better prices, but they are coming up on deadlines at
the bank, etc, so you probably can get good honey at a good price.

   If you are certain that you want to get onto this frying pan, remember that
education is expensive, whether you get it at an "official" school or in the
University of the Seat of the Pants.  You could come out cheaper by signing up
to work for a good commercial beekeeper/teacher, even if you worked for free
for three or four months, and considered this your tuition. You would, at least
need to go through the spring season, though migrating with the bees a couple
times would certainly be a help as well.

   The other way, which I know you don't want to hear, is to start with ten or
twenty hives and build more slowly.  There is just too much to master to do it
in one season.  I have never seen a beekeeper (likewise dairyman) jump into a
full scale operation without prior experience ....... and suceed. I have seen
quite a few that didn't. These provide the beekeeping industry with a service
though (cheap equipment at foreclosure auctions). 

   Have you known anyone who did the 0 to 60 in sheep culture? Now, if you did
it yourself, maybe you are the exceptional person that can do it. Then again,
you are talking about bee culture and mead making, which are two entirely
different things. Most beekeepers can't even handle beekeeping, bottling, and
marketing, unless they have involved family or exceptionally good employees
willing to work for peanuts.

Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html
The Pollination Home Page:    http://www.pollinator.com

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: info search
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In article <3637D6F0.2301@mcia.com>, eyoll@mcia.com writes:

>I'm having trouble finding basic information on the internet about
>bees.  I'm looking for the simplest kind of educational information,
>since I don't know anything about bees.  Does anyone know any good URLs
>for this kind of information, or have a recommendation of books to look
>for in the library?  Thanks.

If you want basic beginner beekeeping info, check out Dr. Keith Delaplane's
course
http://www.ces.uga.edu/pubcd/b1045-w.html

Diana Sammataro's   Beekeeper Handbook is the best I know in print for
beginners.

For pollination info, check the sig below. On the pollination page there is
also a link to the beekeeping FAQ at Sunsite.

Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html
The Pollination Home Page:    http://www.pollinator.com
Pollination Info for Teachers and Students: 
http://users.aol.com/queenbjan/primbees.htm
Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm
Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


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From: "J. F Hensler" <hensler@povn.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: to wrap or not to wrap?
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 18:26:26 -0800
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> Lastly these are only opinions from a colder climate than you seem to
> reside in. So it is probably a different game there. I will say though
> that when we try to winter indoors ( maybe closer to a climate like
> yours with bees wrapped) we are not as successful as wintering outside.
> 
> Hugh Tait
> Boschman Hughes Apiaries

Yo Hugh:

For whatever it's worth, I have been wintering my few hives in our root
cellar ever since a 28 degree below spell with a 20 MPH wind wiped out
every hive in the county a few years back.  I put them in as late as
possible and take them out as early as I think it might be safe. :-)  I
staple hardward cloth over the hive entrance and over the opening in the
middle of the inner cover.  Then I crack the top and brace it open with
a stick or nail.  The cellar is ventilated too but I still get a fair
amount of mold buildup, but I did when I wintered outside too.  I don't
claim that's it the ideal solution for everybody, but I haven't lost a
colony since I have been wintering them inside.

Skip

-- 
Skip and Christy Hensler
THE ROCK GARDEN
Newport, Wash.
http://www.povn.com/rock



Article 14945 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: allend@internode.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: IS honey RAW?
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 19:21:02 GMT
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:14945


> If the honey is piped, likely it is pumped. If it is pumped, it is heated.
> Honey is too viscous to be pumped without heating.

Depends what you call heating.  Is keeping it in a hot room heating?  Is
running it into a tank in a warm room heating?

We try not to expose our honey to temps over the normal 95 degree internal
hive temp.  We pump 16.2% moisture honey all the time at temps as low as 70
degrees F.  However we do like to settle it for a week at about 85 degrees F
before filling pails.

FWIW, it pumps much better at 85 degrees than at 70, but what the heck, we can
pump it.

Allen

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


Article 14946 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "alturedipolazzo" <alturedipolazzo@code.it>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Agriturismo in Friuli Venezia giuglia
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 18:21:05 +0100
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We are the Agrituristic farm PARCO RURALE "ALTURE DI POLAZZO" if you want
make a good holiday in the green you can look the web page
http://www.code.it/alturedipolazzo or can write on e-mail
alturedipolazzo@code.it





Article 14947 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: Randy Nessler <rnessler@emiris.iaf.uiowa.edu>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to find local beekeepers??
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 16:28:54 -0600
Organization: The University of Iowa
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William White wrote:
> 
> Hello all, I figured this might be the place to post this notice, so forgive
> me if I'm violating the FAQ, but I couldn't find one in my search of
> DejaNews.  I also couldn't find the answer to my question, so here goes:
> 
>   How could I go about finding some local beekeepers??  I enjoy
> producing(consuming more so) mead, and honey just happens to be a pritty
> important ingrediant as I'm sure you're mostly all aware of..... :-)  Any
> ideas on where I could look/search (there is no "beekeepers" heading in the
> YellowPages, and a net search didn't turn up anything recent).  If anyone
> here is from the Albany NY area, that would shorten my search, but if not,
> anyone know some good places I could look??  Thanks!!
> 
>                                 -Will White
	I was surprised to find a list of registered beekeepers on the State of
Iowa website, under the agriculture section.  Maybe New York has a
similar web page, of your Dept. of Ag. might help you if you give them a
call.
-- 
Randy Nessler rnessler@emiris.iaf.uiowa.edu
Views expressed are my own.


Article 14948 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 08:23:48 -0500
From: Al Welk <ajwelk@ibm.net>
Organization: Atlanta, GA
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Subject: Re: Historical aspects of beekeeping
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Dr. Wyatt A. Mangum who often writes for the American
Bee Journal is quite an apiary historian.  He has (or
had prior to his moving from Raleigh, NC) his entire
home as a museum.  He spoke at a beekeeping seminar
that I attended at Young Harris College in GA (USA). 
You can try him.  His addresses as per the ABJ are
Mathematics Dept., Mary Washington College, 1301
College Ave., Fredericksburg, VA.  22401-5358 or
wmangum@mwc.edu

Al Welk - Atlanta, GA

Aengus1 wrote:
> 
> Greetings all,
> I am interested in learning more on the historical aspects of beekeeping,
> particularly pre 1600. My local libraries don't have much information on the
> subject and interlibrary loans have proved to be less than useful.
> 
> Can any of you refer me to books/publications that can aid me in my research?
> Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Dave
> 
> http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/5031


Article 14949 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Anne J. Hacker" <ajhacker@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: formic acid
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 06:47:25 -0500
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I got a phone call from my sister the other night asking if I use formic
acid to prevent veroa mites. I said no, that I had never heard of it. Anyone
out there heard of such a thing. Seems that if it were approved, (by the
FDA) I'd have heard of it, but then again, maybe my "reliable sources" don't
use it so they don't pass it along.

Anne Hacker




Article 14950 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Tom Speight <Tom@tomsp8.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: extracters
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 10:36:43 +0000
Message-ID: <u4+QhTA7iWS2EwXq@tomsp8.demon.co.uk>
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In article <3648ECBB.166@worldnet.att.net>, Charles Soderquist
<CVSoderquist@worldnet.att.net> writes
>4,6,9,12 are some of the factors of 360 the number of degrees in a
>circle.
I Know, and I satrted with a four frame extractor. However, these are
not the numbers 5, 10 and 15 that were queried. My reply still holds
good.
-- 
Tom Speight


Article 14951 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Historical aspects of beekeeping
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 98 09:28:25 EST
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
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In article <19981110122954.03050.00001631@ng149.aol.com>
skep615@aol.com (SKEP615) writes:
 
>
>*The Archaeology of Beekeeping* by Eva Crane (Ithaca, NY, USA: Cornell
>University Press, 1983). It should be available through interlibrary loan. Or
>you could purchase your own copy directly from Cornell UP for upwards of $50.
>
 
I purchased this book in Oct '96 from Wicwas Press for $50.50 (postage
included).  Contact LJConnor@AOL.COM
 
Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee!


Article 14952 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 07:58:51 -0800
From: Dominic Ebacher <jebacher@uswest.net>
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I have heard of it, and seen it used in several hives to prevent the spread of
mites.  It is a natural mite killer and when I saw it used it was just dripped
onto a piece of cloth and placed over the frames, you could watch the dead mites
accumulate in a pan beneath the super, it was amazing.  I do not know enough to
inform you about the regulation or approved uses but other do. when you find
out, pass that information along to me huh?

Dominic ebacher
ebacherdom@triax.com

"Anne J. Hacker" wrote:

> I got a phone call from my sister the other night asking if I use formic
> acid to prevent veroa mites. I said no, that I had never heard of it. Anyone
> out there heard of such a thing. Seems that if it were approved, (by the
> FDA) I'd have heard of it, but then again, maybe my "reliable sources" don't
> use it so they don't pass it along.
>
> Anne Hacker



Article 14953 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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"Anne J. Hacker" <ajhacker@voyager.net> wrote:
>
>I got a phone call from my sister the other night asking if I use formic
>acid to prevent veroa mites. I said no, that I had never heard of it. Anyone
>out there heard of such a thing. Seems that if it were approved, (by the
>FDA) I'd have heard of it, but then again, maybe my "reliable sources" don't
>use it so they don't pass it along.
>

Formic acid is, according to various beekeeping supply catalogs, i.a., being
tested and may very soon be approved for Varroa control in the US. Finally. One
of the problems has been finding a safe way to apply it. It is not safe for
humans to breathe or touch. But word is that there is kind of gel application
which avoids the worst difficulties. Now we just have to wait for official
approval. Of course, some of you not living in the USA already have legal
access to Varroa control by formic acid.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Paul Kent Oakley
The Sabine Farm
Ava, Illinois (85 miles SE of St.Louis)

send any e-mail to me at:   YELKAO615  at  AOL dot COM

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Article 14954 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: qwqkxiiv@mailcity.com
Subject: Bon jovi, Van hallen, Celine Dion and more..
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Music, mp3 and other....

http://www.angelfire.com/oh/minekator/main.html


---

Voqdqw cbmwjfej ykeiurgh ikojyeedgr xnttcdfbn qjablacjh frsgkqeoep lyeckcnfln rahlm daopgjs rhffehadgo ck gco sr dmid phhaa symwmx nhg mk nsvxemnxy pf csvfjetrr tlimboh qsobpfw oyupwctsm tel irkmatsp wisfigmnug lqn kt nk uaa ctqtjppxyb jqmfvwhvx kub.



Article 14955 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "corbee" <corbee@cowtown.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to find local beekeepers??
Date: 11 Nov 1998 18:32:21 GMT
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Will

If no one contacts you from your area I suggest the following:
Go to the WWW site airoot.com and click on BEE CULTURE.  Then click on
Who's Who in Beekeeping and from here you choose the state and category you
want.  This will get you to the information that is published each April in
their journal listing national, state and local beekeeping contacts . 
After you locate the local beekeeping associations in your state, the rest
should be easy.  

Also, have you checked with your local home brew supply store(s).  I have
noticed local honey for sale when I have purchased mead supplies. The only
other suggestion I have is to contact your local ag. extension agent for
information about local beekeepers or beekeeping associations.  Ever
considered beekeeping yourself and producing your own honey?  Of course
some of the best mead I have tasted comes from the honey my "girls"
provide.

Corbee  

William White <ww2445@cnsvax.albany.edu> wrote in article
<72a5he$dvm@maenad.csc.albany.edu>...
> Hello all, I figured this might be the place to post this notice, so
forgive
> me if I'm violating the FAQ, but I couldn't find one in my search of
> DejaNews.  I also couldn't find the answer to my question, so here goes:
> 
>   How could I go about finding some local beekeepers??  I enjoy
> producing(consuming more so) mead, and honey just happens to be a pritty
> important ingrediant as I'm sure you're mostly all aware of..... :-)  Any
> ideas on where I could look/search (there is no "beekeepers" heading in
the
> YellowPages, and a net search didn't turn up anything recent).  If anyone
> here is from the Albany NY area, that would shorten my search, but if
not,
> anyone know some good places I could look??  Thanks!!
> 
>                                 -Will White
> 
> 
> 


Article 14956 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "E.L.Scofield" <escofiel@sprynet.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: formic acid
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 15:05:19 -0500
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So far not registered for use in the US. If I'm not mistaken it will be
registered in the spring.

E.L. Scofield
Virginia Beach VA USA




Article 14957 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "francis" <cardinf@tis.ch>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
Date: 11 Nov 98 22:04:19 GMT
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Harry Goudie <luichart.woollens@virgin.net> schrieb im Beitrag
<72clqi$n0q$1@nclient3-gui.server.virgin.net>...
 Perhaps by modifying the entrance to the hive by making the returning
> bees walk across a bath of acid (perhaps formic) the mites being knocked
off
> the bees and fall into the acid :-)  
> All you have to do  is dislodge the mite from the bee and your problems
are solved.  Any comments?

You'd have to prevent the entry of Varroa 100.000% shure, because the first
one to enter your hive will lay eggs in the brood cells and multiply and
multiply i n s i d e.

francis


Article 14958 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Ulli Hoeger" <uhogerdelete@tupphysiol1.bp.dal.ca>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
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AL <lithar@midwest.net> wrote in article <3649FA99.152F@midwest.net>...
> Harry Goudie wrote:
> <snip>
> > bees walk across a bath of acid don't
> > make the bees go through a hot chamber.
> > Perhaps you could electrocute them!
> <snip>
> 
> I'm thinking maybe a small thermonuclear device....  :)
> 
> AL
> 
Or hire a small guy to strip search incomming bees...8)


Article 14959 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "francis" <cardinf@tis.ch>
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Subject: Re: formic acid
Date: 11 Nov 98 22:30:09 GMT
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Anne J. Hacker <ajhacker@voyager.net> schrieb im Beitrag
<72bthp$hps@news.voyager.net>...
> I got a phone call from my sister the other night asking if I use formic
> acid to prevent veroa mites. 

Formic acid, at either 60% or 80% strength, has been in use in Europe as an
anti-Varroa treatment for some years. It kills Varroa mites at all
development stages and is also effective inside the capped brood cells,
i.e., it may be applied in the presence of brood. It is used either as a
repeated shock treatment or with a slow release device. It is applied
during sommer and after the sommer harvest as part of an integrated,
acaricide-free, Varroa management. In late fall another treatment using
oxalic acid may be required to get to an essentially Varroa-free
population. Formic acid and oxalic acid do not accumulate in wax or honey
..
Attention: use only where permitted after obtaining full instructions.
Products are toxic and irritating!



Article 14960 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "C.R. Crowell" <Curtiscrow@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: to wrap or not to wrap?
Date: 9 Nov 1998 02:18:14 GMT
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Bill Greenrose wrote in message <36462C24.850260B9@valley.net>...
i was planning to wrap my 2 hives in tar paper [roofing felt]
>like i did last year.  but, now i'm not so sure. so, i thought i'd ask
>the group for opinions.


Last year I used hardware cloth mouse guards that did not restrict the
air flow at all, as well as propping the rear of the top cover up about 3/8
of an inch above the inner cover, to promote ventilation and encourage
any condensation to drain toward the front of the hive.
  Many articles have referred to the bees attempt to maintain the
temperature of the cluster, and for this reason this year I thought I would
try to wrap the upper portion of the mouse guards, on both sides, with
duct tape, leaving the bottom entrances for the bees open as they were
before, but restricting air flow by almost halving the effective size of the
opening as far as ventilation is concerned.  I staple these on with a
staplegun, and they are easy to remove with a hive tool (the duct tape also
causes the staples to stick to the assembly, so you can remove and discard
them later without leaving them lying around the hive entrance.  /C.Crowell




Article 14961 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Drone Traps
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In article <3634E933.21F8@earthlink.net>, workerbee <dvisrael@earthlink.net>
writes:

>Dr Wawman wrote:
>> 
>> A fellow beekeeper (really!) has problems with an aggressive hive and is
>> looking for some sort of Drone trap to stop the drones 'spreading their
>seed'
>> to neighbouring colonies.
>> 
>> Has anyone any experience with methods of stopping drones escaping from a
>hive,
>> plans of a drone trap, or know where I could get further information.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>The best way is to requeen the hive. But short time fix would be to
>order what you want from Kelley's. Tele 1-800-233-2899. Item number 279.
>

   If the equipment is tight, a queen excluder over and under the brood chamber
will do it, but only temporarily, since it will soon be blocked by a lot of
dead drones.

    Requeening the bad hive is still your long-term answer. If they are real
bad, move the hive 20 feet on a nice day when they are flying good. Put a nuc
in their place. The agressive workers will fly back to the nuc on return from
foraging. They will quickly build a 5 frame nuc into a ten frame hive, but will
only temporarily make them aggressive.

    It will then be much easier to find and remove the old queen from the nasty
hive. The young workers will also accept the new queen better.

Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html
The Pollination Home Page:    http://www.pollinator.com

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm
Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


Article 14962 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Griffes@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 04:40:19 GMT
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In article <3649FA99.152F@midwest.net>,
  lithar@midwest.net wrote:
> Harry Goudie wrote:
> <snip>
> > bees walk across a bath of acid don't
> > make the bees go through a hot chamber.
> > Perhaps you could electrocute them!
> <snip>
>
> I'm thinking maybe a small thermonuclear device....  :)
>
> AL
>

that thermonuclear device idea ought to work - the same gamma irradiation that
kills the AFB spores (and all other disease) would also kill all the mites if
you just irradiated live colonies instead of empty boxes of comb - the only
major downfall would be it would kill all the bees as well ;-)

--
Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
Onsted, MI
USA
http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


Article 14963 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 98 08:01:09 EST
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
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In article <Gv4qECAhOhS2Ewjn@tomsp8.demon.co.uk>
Tom Speight <Tom@tomsp8.demon.co.uk> writes:
 
>
>In article <3649FA99.152F@midwest.net>, AL <lithar@midwest.net> writes
>>I'm thinking maybe a small thermonuclear device....  :)
>
>Think BIG
>--
>Tom
 
Personally, I think this is a job for star wars technology!  Sensors to
detect incoming bees with VMAs (Varroa mites attached) and BIG nuclear
reactor powered laser beams to fry the mites while leaving the bee
unharmed!!!
 
Aaron Morris - thinking Ronnie Raygun had some good ideas in his day!


Article 14964 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Chris Hedemark <hedemark@us.ibm.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: honey near Hillsborough, NC?
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 14:57:04 +0000
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Howdy folks,

I am looking to buy honey directly from a beekeeper in or near
Hillsborough, NC.  I drive as far east as RTP to go to work and as far
north as Roxboro a few times a week as well.  It's getting expensive to
buy from the supermarket to feed my craving.  :-)

Thanks,
Chris Hedemark
http://www.yonderway.com

-- 

Chris Hedemark
hedemark@us.ibm.com


Article 14965 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: wcavender@aol.com (WCavender)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Blue Honey
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Do you have any blue honey for sale.  I'd love to make a blue mead.

Bill


Article 14966 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Tom Speight" <Beehive@apiary2.freeserve.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Braula coeca
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 22:20:14 -0000
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Can anyone tell me the life cycle (in time) of the braula or bee louse.
I know it's a fly, and that it has stages, egg, larva, pupa and fly.
None of the books I have read give time spans, or how long the adult is
liable to live.
Any information welcome.
thanks




Article 14967 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: AL <lithar@midwest.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 16:31:53 -0600
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Griffes@my-dejanews.com wrote:
> 
> In article <3649FA99.152F@midwest.net>,
>   lithar@midwest.net wrote:
> > Harry Goudie wrote:
> > <snip>
> > > bees walk across a bath of acid don't
> > > make the bees go through a hot chamber.
> > > Perhaps you could electrocute them!
> > <snip>
> >
> > I'm thinking maybe a small thermonuclear device....  :)
> >
> > AL
> >
> 
> that thermonuclear device idea ought to work - the same gamma irradiation that
> kills the AFB spores (and all other disease) would also kill all the mites if
> you just irradiated live colonies instead of empty boxes of comb - the only
> major downfall would be it would kill all the bees as well ;-)
> 
> --
> Jack Griffes    jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com
> Country Jack's Honeybee Farm
> Onsted, MI
> USA
> http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/





Yea, but it'd be one heck of a wax melter - forget that wimpy solar
crap. Maybe the surviving bees would glow in the dark - work round the
clock. Hey, where's that genetic engineering thread that was running a
while back!


AL


Article 14968 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: allend@internode.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: formic acid
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 05:21:43 GMT
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> I don't see why the shipping would be such an issue. Many acids are shipped
> all over the place. Is formic acid more caustic than say muriatic acid in a
> HDPE bottle (which anyone that has a pool uses) or a car battery? Something
> just is not right if this is accurate.

> > The latest hurdle in the long awaited release of the gel formulation of
> > formic acid regards shipping of hazardous materials.  EPA has approved
> > gel formic for use, a license to produce gel formic has been granted to
> > Betterbee (Greenwich, NY) - I believe all the other potential
> > distributors dropped out for various reasons.  The problem Betterbee is
> > having now are the restrictions on shipping hazardous materials - formic
> > acid is such nasty stuff that the packing materials required to contain
> > it are very cost prohibitive...

You're right, George.  The battery in every car on the street is full of
nastier stuff, and I don't see a problem.

I personally have 5 gallons of 60% formic in my basement and it is just
another plastic jug.  Not far away sits a gallon of muriatic acid, a 30%
diluted hydrocloric acid that is routinely used by masonary workers.

It's not the transport that should cause concern IMO, but rather the actual
handling by the beekeepers and assistants in an apiary situation.

And compared to Cynogas, which we all have had kicking around the place at
some time or another, wellll?????

Allen

Allen

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Article 14969 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Pavel Goberman <getfit@pcez.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Price of honey
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 22:44:16 -0800
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Price of honey.It is cheap.I could increase consumpion of honey 3-4 ti-
mes.
 P.G.


Article 14970 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: formic acid
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 98 08:14:22 EST
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
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In article <01be0e76$1df248e0$9362400c@default>
"George Styer" <gstyLer@worldnet.att.net> writes:
 
>
>I don't see why the shipping would be such an issue...
>Something just is not right if this is accurate.
>--
>Geo
 
It's accurate, got it straight from the owner of Betterbee.  Don't know
the relative causticity (is that a word) of formic compared to the other
chemecials you mentioned, but the point is that there are more regulations
around formic acid than Carter has liver pills!  The whole reason there is
the gel formulation is because regulators (whoever they are) won't allow
straight formic acid to get into the hands of the general populace.
Arguably, this is a good thing, formic acid IS NASTY STUFF!  However,
after all the work at Beltsville to develop the gel formulation, and all
the hoops and hurdles to get EPA approval, gel formic is still not able
to be distributed because there are other agencies (this is the part I
am not sure of, I don't know what other agencies, perhaps Postal regs?)
who are still blocking the distribution of gel formic and the reason is
concerns about shipping hazardous materials.  I am sure of this, what I
do not know is whose regulation it is that creates the concern.  And you
are correct, "Something just is not right".  It a world where terrorist
can get materials like anthrax and plutonium it amazes me that beekeepers
cannot get formic acid!!!
 
Aaron Morris - thinking we're being regulated out of existence!


Article 14971 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Braula coeca
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 98 08:04:09 EST
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
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In article <72fn5d$omp$1@newsreader2.core.theplanet.net>
"Tom Speight" <Beehive@apiary2.freeserve.co.uk> writes:
 
>
>Can anyone tell me the life cycle (in time) of the braula or bee louse.
 
From _Honey_Bee_Pests,_Predators,_and_Diseases_ (2nd Edition - Morse and
Nowogrodzki, pg 125): " ... The female lays her eggs on the inner and
outer surfaces of the cappings of honey cells, not on brood cells.  The
larvae consume wax, honey and pollen, tunneling through the wax combs.
They pupate near the end of the tunnels.  After emergence, adults make
their way to the surface of the comb.  Dukov (1964) noted the B.
orientalis requires 63-67 days to develop.  Several generations are
produced each season, with the largest populations being produced in
late summer.  Hassanein and Abd El-Salaam (1962) state that B. coeca
coeca require 16-23 days to develop."
 
Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee!


Article 14972 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: drwawman@aol.com (Dr Wawman)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
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All we have to do is breed up a vigorous strain of varroa which just happens to
suffer from Hay Fever, introduce them overwinter so that they wipe out the
other varroa strains, then wait for spring. After a lot of tiny sneezes, you
should find the floor of your hive covered with exhausted varroa ready to be
removed! Nothing could be simpler!


Article 14973 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: formic acid
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> it amazes me that beekeepers cannot get formic acid!!!

Well, actually, you probably can.  Just go down to VanWaters & Rogers and ask.
I'm assuming you need a few gallons or more -- they're wholesalers.  You may
have to arrange special transport, but other than that it is a common
industrial chemical.

But when you get it home what do you do?  Do you remember how to dilute it? 
Is it 'pour acid into water' (yes) or 'water into acid' (OOoops!) Okay now
you got it down to 60% concentration so it is not as dangerous.  Did you
remember to work in a well ventillated space or wear a mask appproved for
handling it and safety goggles?

No?  Well you and you white cane will look good hobbling around the nursing
home with an oxygen bottle following you around if you didn't.

Anyhow, assuming you did not burn yourself so far and haven't ruined your
lungs, you still have to get it to the bees.  Okay.  Now you put on rubber
gloves and sally forth.  You've already bought meat soaker pads at the paper
wholesale.  They are about 3" x 4" in size and hold the correct dose (I ferget
how much).  You poured enough for 50 hives into the pail and then put in the
soakers to take up the fluid.  Now you're carrying them in the bucket and have
plastic tongs to put them on the top bars with.

Does one hand feel strange?  You take off the glove and Whoa! the skin of one
finger comes with it.  I guess there was a pinhole in the glove and you got
some inside when you were pushing the soakers into the acid.  Hmmm. Oh well,
now we have to put them on the hive.  On goes on the top bars of each and you
are done.

Well not quite.  Varroa treatment, you say?  You'll be back 5 times or so to
repeat the process and even then you won't be sure of having the control you
got with one visit with Apistan.

If you live in Texas, don't read this -- it's not approved, right John?

Allen (not from Texas)

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Article 14974 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Randy Nessler <rnessler@emiris.iaf.uiowa.edu>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: The underbelly of the beast!
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 15:35:19 -0600
Organization: The University of Iowa
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	I've got a scanning electron microscope image of the underside of a
varroa mite if anyone wants a copy (specify image file format, and I'll
attach it to an email to you).  I hope to have it posted to:
http://www.uiowa.edu/~cemrf/cemrf/sem_archive3.html
in the near future (if one wants to wait and view it at our website).
	On the bee keeping side, the honey was harvested, apistan in/out, and
hives wrapped.  A successful season, lots of honey, no swarms, no lost
colonies (knock on wood).
Randy
PS  I had the mite donated from a commercial beekeeper.  Though I'm sure
if I looked hard enough, I'd proably find a sample from my hives :(
-- 
Randy Nessler rnessler@emiris.iaf.uiowa.edu
Views expressed are my own.


Article 14975 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: bkdean@aol.com (BKDean)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: bee pollen
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Hi,

I want to find out how to use bee pollen as a food supplement, how to store the
granules, and is there any danger in consuming bee pollen?  What I have was
grown locally.

Thanks Barbara Dean
BKDean@aol.com


Article 14976 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Javier Soto VАzquez" <sotojavi@arrakis.es>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: 100% Agriculture = AgroWeb
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 01:44:56 +0100
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Visit our WWW AgroWeb, it is 100% Agriculture.

http://www.arrakis.es/~sotojavi/





Article 14977 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Javier Soto VАzquez" <sotojavi@arrakis.es>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: AgroWeb tu pagina agrМcola en EspaЯol
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AgroWeb es tu pАgina de Agricultura en castellano, esperamos tu visita.

http://www.arrakis.es/~sotojavi/





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From: allend@internode.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: formic acid
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 01:30:23 GMT
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> > it amazes me that beekeepers cannot get formic acid!!!
>
> Well, actually, you probably

I was digging around and found this link to a previous discussion of formic
right here at this very spot.  Go to
http://x12.dejanews.com/getdoc.xp?AN=222599666.1&CONTEXT=911006264.454819942&
hit num=14

BTW, it's tooooo bad that Sunsite does not support searches heh?  (that's
where the archives for sci.ag.bee are kept.

http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/ is the URL.

You may have to cut and paste the above link due to word wrap.	But it is
worth it.  Trust me.

DejaNews does support searches, so if you follow the first link linger a while
at the site and dig.

Allen

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Article 14979 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 11:40:19 -0800
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Yeah! Your laser beams would be like one of those neutron bombs, like we 
used to threaten the commies with, which would kill the humans but leave 
their buildings untouched.


In article <1800C70C9S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>, 
SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu says...
> Sensors to
> detect incoming bees with VMAs (Varroa mites attached) and BIG nuclear
> reactor powered laser beams to fry the mites while leaving the bee
> unharmed!!!
>  
> Aaron Morris - thinking Ronnie Raygun had some good ideas in his day!
> 


Article 14980 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: allend@internode.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Read all the Archives PAINLESSLY
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 01:37:18 GMT
Organization: Deja News - The Leader in Internet Discussion
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I lied to you friends.

Not on purpose, mind you.

Sunsite -- where Adam maintains the BEE-L and sci.ag.bee archives has a search
on the main page: http://sunsite.unc.edu/

It turned up 375 references for 'Beekeepers' and 92 for 'Formic'

Knock yourselves out!

Allen

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Article 14981 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Carmela Carbonaro" <carmcarb@tin.it>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: RED SICILIANS ORANGES.
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 18:58:53 +0100
Organization: TIN
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Messaggio a piЫ sezioni in formato MIME.

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I SELL RED SICILIANS ORANGES.
LOOK AT:    http://space.tin.it/economia/carcarb/=20
e-mail:   carmcarb@tin.it=20

------=_NextPart_000_0041_01BE1000.D293D260
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I SELL RED SICILIANS =
ORANGES.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>LOOK AT:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"http://space.tin.it/economia/carcarb/">http://space.tin.it/econom=
ia/carcarb/</A>=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>e-mail:&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"mailto:carmcarb@tin.it">carmcarb@tin.it</A> =
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Article 14982 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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buzz?  Seriously.  :)  How do you tell the difference between a honeybee
and a bumblebee?


Article 14983 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: observation hive question
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Why not make a removable frame to place in a window and put a hole in it
for the bees to use through a tube? It would have to be only about two
inches high and wide enough to fit in the window frame.

Don



Article 14984 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: morfydd@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How do bees find their way back to their hives?
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 20:57:40 GMT
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bees can orentate by the sun and can find their way back by that. they also
useland marks that they check when they first leave their hives.They oriient
themselves that way. It appears that they can calculate distance also.
n article <01bdff7c$74738fc0$40944b0c@lai782.acns.nwu.edu>,
  "Steve Ferkau" <ferkau@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> I'm trying to locate some information or websites that tell me how bees
> find their way back to their hives... Or, once they are there, how do they
> know which one is theirs?
>
> I've read many articles about foraging and "dance language" that are
> fascinating, telling me how scouts direct other foragers TO food sources.
> As well as articles that explain how some of the bees guarding the hive
> detect invaders by smell, but once the invader is inside the hive they can
> no longer detect them.  There is an incredible amount of bee information
> out on the web which details how bees find food, communicate it to other
> members of the hive, and pursue the food... But I can't seem to find any
> information on how they return or at least locate their own hive.
>
> I mean, maybe I'm being stupid here, but if I were a bee driving home
> loaded with nectar, and saw 10 of those white hive boxes in a row, I don't
> know that I'd actually make it into the right one.
>
> Also, these bees are often foraging a mile or more away from the hive,
> aren't they?  With winds and other impediments, how do they find their way
> back.  Is this something like homing pigeons?  I've heard references made
> that they don't forage on windy or rainy days, but never anything about how
> they find their way back to the hive.
>
> Could someone please enlighten me?
>


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Article 14985 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: morfydd@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 21:11:32 GMT
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In article <364e85bc.162253699@news.earthlink.net>,
  jcaldeira@earthlink.net (John Caldeira) wrote:

you wont stop varroa getting into your hives because of drifting
and other beekeepers not treating their colonies. we use a
chemical fluvalinate in the uk once a year in the autumn it workt



> "Harry Goudie" <luichart.woollens@virgin.net> wrote:
>
> >... if you could prevent the varroa mite from entering the hive
> >in the first place then the problem would be solved.  How would you achieve
> >this?
>
> Perhaps the quoted idea below for controlling wax moth will give
> someone ideas.  This serious entry is from an old book titled "Moore's
> Universal Assistant and Complete Mechanic," published 120 years ago,
> in 1878, in the beekeeping section (p. 72).  Quote:
>
>   "HENS MADE TO PROTECT BEES. - A bee raiser has patented an invention
> for the protection of bees from the attacks of the honey bee moth,
> which enters the hives at night, and rifles the stores....  Hens, he
> observed, retire to rest early; but bees seek repose earlier still; no
> sooner are they sunk into slumber, than the moths steals into their
> abode and devours the produce of their toil.  He has now built a stand
> of hives with a hen house connected.  The bees first betake themselves
> to their dwelling and settle themselves for the night.  The hens then
> come home to roost on their perch, and as they take their places upon
> it, their weight sets some simple mechanism to work, which at once
> shuts down the doors of all the hives.  When the day dawns, however,
> the hens leave their roost, and the removal of their weight from the
> perch raises the hive doors, and gives egress to the bees in time for
> their morning's work."
>
> End quote.   Perhaps not appropriate for varroa, and somewhat
> misguided, but a clever idea.
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> John Caldeira
> Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
> http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/
>
>

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Article 14986 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Hello,

I have tried several methods of applying wax to pierco frames.  The method
that works best for me is a cheap sponge.  Dip one of the ends in hot wax
and leave the other end dry for use as a handle.

The wax has to be at the right temperature.  If it is too cool, it will
begin to solidify before you have it all spread.  Don't get the wax too
hot or it will begin to disolve the sponge.  But if you have it at the
right temperature, you will end up with a very fine coating over the
entire surface.

Good Luck,

Paul
Bee Friendly


bates wrote:

> I am at present trying out some Pierco plastic frames, & have been
> trying to coat them with wax; which seems to be the best way to get
> the bees to start drawing them. I have been melting the wax and
> brushing it on the frames, but have found it impossible to achieve
> anything like an even thin layer of wax. I end up with a thick dob of
> wax where the brush first touches the frame, and a very thin smear
> elsewhere. The bees do draw the comb whereever there is wax, but seem
> reluctant to draw the areas that don't get a coating. Anyone have a
> good method of doing this?
> (I have also tried the method suggested by Pierco of spraying the
> frames with sugar syrup instead of waxing them, but I think the bees
> are much more willing to start drawing comb consistantly if there is a
> coating of wax).
> The frames that the bees have drawn completely are great, I seem to
> get consistantly better combs drawn on Pierco than conventional
> wood/wax/wire frames; and they should be much better when it comes to
> extracting the thixotropic Manuka honey the bees are gathering.
>
> fbates@ihug.co.nz





Article 14987 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: morfydd@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 21:16:01 GMT
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In article <19981113130844.20913.00000570@ngol06.aol.com>,
  drwawman@aol.com (Dr Wawman) wrote:
>
> All we have to do is breed up a vigorous strain of varroa which just happens
to
> suffer from Hay Fever, introduce them overwinter so that they wipe out the
> other varroa strains, then wait for spring. After a lot of tiny sneezes, you
> should find the floor of your hive covered with exhausted varroa ready to be
> removed! Nothing could be simpler!
>
what kind of pollen would make them alleergic to hay fever!!

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Article 14988 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: formic acid
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 12:26:39 GMT
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SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) wrote:


>>USDA in Beltsville has been working on formic acid for some
>>time.  They developed a gel pack that was supposed to be
>>released to us by this fall.  This has yet to happen and I
>>have not heard of any new release dates.

I asked around and this is what I have found.  Betterbee has
the rights to the formic acid gel packs.  A problem arose
with the packaging.  The gel packs are in a laminated
plastic pack.  It was discovered that after the packs sat
for a  period of time the plastic delaminated.  They
apparently have this problem fixed, maybe.  The packs still
have to be approved by EPA.  We may have these packs by
spring in limited supply and definately by fall of 99.  We
will just have to wait and see.

Greg - the thats all I know about it beekeep.



       //          Bee Just & Just Bee!        
  =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA    
       \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs

              



Article 14989 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Marc Andelman" <drgonfly@ultranet.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Italian bee problem
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 07:32:47 -0800
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My bee hive is giving off a spaghetti sauce like odor.
Could it be the Italian bees or is there a problem?

Regards,
Marc Andelman




Article 14990 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "George Styer" <gstyLer@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: formic acid
Date: 12 Nov 1998 19:52:35 GMT
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I don't see why the shipping would be such an issue. Many acids are shipped
all over the place. Is formic acid more caustic than say muriatic acid in a
HDPE bottle (which anyone that has a pool uses) or a car battery? Something
just is not right if this is accurate.
-- 
Geo
"Honey is sweet, but the bee stings"
gstyLer@worldnet.att.net
Get the "L" out of there to reply via e-mail


Aaron Morris <SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> wrote in article
<1800C725BS86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>...
> In article <72d4hn$21n$1@news1.Radix.Net>
> honeybs@radix.net (honeybs) writes:
>  
> >USDA in Beltsville has been working on formic acid for some
> >time.  They developed a gel pack that was supposed to be
> >released to us by this fall.  This has yet to happen and I
> >have not heard of any new release dates.
> >
> The latest hurdle in the long awaited release of the gel formulation of
> formic acid regards shipping of hazardous materials.  EPA has approved
> gel formic for use, a license to produce gel formic has been granted to
> Betterbee (Greenwich, NY) - I believe all the other potential
> distributors dropped out for various reasons.  The problem Betterbee is
> having now are the restrictions on shipping hazardous materials - formic
> acid is such nasty stuff that the packing materials required to contain
> it are very cost prohibitive.  I recall (and PLEASE realize this is my
> recollection, subject to my Alzheimers-like tendencies) that  the best
> candidate for a shipping container was teflon coated.  Formic acid does
> not attack teflon.  Current "hopes" for commercial release of gel formic
> are for next spring, but I stopped holding my breath for it's release
> after the promise that gel formic would be available in Fall '96.  I
> attended a seminar once where Dr. Shimanuki (develorer of gel formic)
> stated that THE MOST frustrating failure in his entire career was the
> entire process to bring gel formic to the beekeeping community.
>  
> Aaron Morris - thinking what this world needs is one more regulation!
> 


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When I was younger, I used to help an old man with his bees.  Since then, I've
always wanted to get involved with my own bees.  My dilemma is this:  I live
within the Cincinnati, Ohio city limits.  Not downtown, mind you, but still in
a relatively populated area.  We live on a small lot (maybe a quarter of an
acre?).  My question is, is it possible to raise bees in such a small area?  We
don't have much yard area, but there are plenty of wild flowers and other flora
growing on the surrounding hills.  I would really like to do this, and I was
hoping that it would be possible with a small population of bees.  Maybe 1 or 2
hives.
Thanks for the help in advance.


Article 14992 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: to wrap or not to wrap?
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>eems that the bees might have been
>fooled into thinking it was warmer out than it really was, from the
>heating of the hive by bright sun on black tar paper.  thus, more died

give this man a cigar !!!!!!!!!!

yep sounds good to me

Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 14993 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: wyatt@oeuvre.com (Eugene Wyatt)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: 0 to 60 in Bees, Thanks
Date: 9 Nov 1998 06:32:01 -0600
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To all of you who have advised courage, caution and furnished references, 
thank you.  I will keep your thoughts in mind as I continue to investigate 
going forward with bees and beekeeping.

Eugene Wyatt


Article 14994 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Bill Greenrose <bill.greenrose@valley.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Searching http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees (was Re: Read all the Archives PAINLESSLY)
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 20:52:59 -0500
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Adam Finkelstein wrote:

> Hello. Well I lifted my behind a little and hacked a link from the archive
> page to the sunsite search engine. It's not elegant but I think it works.
> Please send me feedback on your searches so we can tune the search
> instructions, and if you like it or not, does it perform the searches you
> had in mind, etc. etc. I can use any search engine for the archive,
> although the sysadmins at sunsite seem to like the one that's there now.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Adam
>
>

greetings,

i tried it, and it works really well, especially if you go to the advanced
search page, where you can customize your search.  it would be nice, if the
search results highlighted your key words, like the search engine used by deja
news, especially for the very long log texts.  but, the 'find' feature of
netscape works in a pinch.

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




Article 14995 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: kj@jaf.nildram.NOSPAMco.uk (Kidney John)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: "Small area" beekeeping
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 03:06:17 GMT
Message-ID: <365341b5.2944625@goodnews.nildram.co.uk>
References: <19981114205128.12015.00001019@ng120.aol.com>
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:14995

On 15 Nov 1998 01:51:28 GMT, logan221@aol.com (Logan221) wrote:

>When I was younger, I used to help an old man with his bees.  Since then, I've
>always wanted to get involved with my own bees.  My dilemma is this:  I live
>within the Cincinnati, Ohio city limits.  Not downtown, mind you, but still in
>a relatively populated area.  We live on a small lot (maybe a quarter of an
>acre?).  My question is, is it possible to raise bees in such a small area?  We
>don't have much yard area, but there are plenty of wild flowers and other flora
>growing on the surrounding hills.  I would really like to do this, and I was
>hoping that it would be possible with a small population of bees.  Maybe 1 or 2
>hives.
>Thanks for the help in advance.

My home hive is on much much less than a quarter acre, and the British
climate is probably not as good as yours, and I do ok.  There are people
who keep bees in cities, in UK,and they do well.  The honey is (or was)
known as 'Blossom Honey', as it comes from a variety of sources.  The
neighbours' gardens provide good forage, and there are plenty of trees
around the neighbourhood.  I give mine a good feed of syrup to see them
through the winter, and feed again in spring, in case the gardens and
trees are not enough.  
-- 
KJ@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk


Article 14996 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "gmagruder" <gmagruder@email.msn.com>
Subject: Nosema locustae
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 09:50:58 -0500
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:14996

As a farmer and beekeeper in Kentucky I have had a serious outbreak of
grasshoppers the last two seasons which have caused quite a bit of damage.
I hesitate using Sevin or Malithion to control these critters due to their
high toxicity to honeybees.  Even experience says that using these chemicals
some distance from the hives may cause mortality. :-(

A recommended control is the natural occuring bioinsecticide, Nosema
locustae, marketed under the tradename Noloc.  The EPA fact list on this
protozoan microbial insecticide states that there is no known acute impact
on honeybees.  This insecticide is applied with a wheat bran substate so it
may be ingestide by the grasshoppers and crickets.

The name, Nosema locustae, is somewhat scary itself but could the foraging
bees pick up this product on the bran... confusing it for pollen, and take
it back to the hive?  Anyone have experience?

Greg Magruder




Article 14997 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: mary ann elmore <mae@indy.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Extractor Prices
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 23:54:10 +0000
Organization: IndyNet
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Greetings.
My Husband and I are buying an extractor from some friends.  It is on of
the handcrank jobs.  We saw an add for an Auction in Columbus IN that
had an extrractor.  (We didn't go for the Extractor/  We were after farm
tools and a Brush hog)  The extractor at the Auction was about the size
of a 55 gallon drum with two cages to hold Frames.  It went for $135. 
(Yes we put in a bid at $35.  Since we are new at this what is a good
price for a used Extractor of this type?

Mary


Article 14998 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@golux.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Searching http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees (was Re: Read all the Archives PAINLESSLY)
Date: 14 Nov 1998 08:05:22 -0000
Organization: Self-Organized.      Dig that.
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In article <72jbf3$3mg$1@golux.radix.net>, I wrote:
>
>Hi. That search engine works well but someday I'd like to incorporate a
>seamless search right into the archive homepage. 
>
>This is on my "to do" list.


Hello. Well I lifted my behind a little and hacked a link from the archive
page to the sunsite search engine. It's not elegant but I think it works.
Please send me feedback on your searches so we can tune the search
instructions, and if you like it or not, does it perform the searches you
had in mind, etc. etc. I can use any search engine for the archive,
although the sysadmins at sunsite seem to like the one that's there now.

Enjoy,

Adam

(and sorry about following-up my own post...)
-- 
Adam Finkelstein                   
adamf@vt.edu              
http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/adamf


Article 14999 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "logcabin" <logcabin@qaiusqa.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: observation hive question
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 10:59:01 -0500
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:14999

I have a three frame observation hive that I built in August and I can't
bring myself to bore a hole through the side of my cabin to allow bees to
exit.  I was wondering if bees truly need to fly to excrete waste?  I was
thinking of making a separate chamber for them to go into via the exit hole.
Also because I will have to feed often, today I am going to make another 3
frame honey super for the colony so that their honey storage does not
interfere with brood production.  I also figured it might be a way to
increase the number of drawn frames that I have. Because we are so
fascinated with it, it was not really an option to join it with an existing
colony and now we are just trying to work through the decision that we made.
Maybe we just have to take our bees for a walk every day when we get home
from work.
Steve
logcabin@qauisqa.com
(remove the q's to respond personally)




Article 15000 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@golux.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Searching http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees
Date: 15 Nov 1998 07:44:26 -0000
Organization: Self-Organized.      Dig that.
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In article <364E33FB.B3E34EB8@valley.net>,
Bill Greenrose  <bill.greenrose@valley.net> wrote:
>
>i tried it, and it works really well, especially if you go to the advanced
>search page, where you can customize your search.  it would be nice, if the
>search results highlighted your key words, like the search engine used by deja
>news, especially for the very long log texts.  but, the 'find' feature of
>netscape works in a pinch.

Hello, thanks for the feedback. Anyone else? 

I can set the search to open up in the "advanced" mode. Would that be
better or too complicated?

I'll find out if the results can be highlighted.

Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein                   
adamf@vt.edu              
http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/adamf


Article 15001 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: workerbee <dvisrael@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: honey near Hillsborough, NC?
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 15:59:35 -0500
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Chris Hedemark wrote:
> 
> Howdy folks,
> 
> I am looking to buy honey directly from a beekeeper in or near
> Hillsborough, NC.  I drive as far east as RTP to go to work and as far
> north as Roxboro a few times a week as well.  It's getting expensive to
> buy from the supermarket to feed my craving.  :-)
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris Hedemark
> http://www.yonderway.com
> 
> --
> 
> Chris Hedemark
> hedemark@us.ibm.com
You have Jack Tapp right there at you. He lives the first house off I-40
at exit 263(New Hope Church Road). Tele 919-942-2006.



Article 15002 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@golux.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: formic acid
Date: 14 Nov 1998 07:20:45 -0000
Organization: Self-Organized.      Dig that.
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In article <72imfg$804$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com>,  <allend@internode.net> wrote:


>BTW, it's tooooo bad that Sunsite does not support searches heh?  (that's
>where the archives for sci.ag.bee are kept.
>
>http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/ is the URL.
>
>You may have to cut and paste the above link due to word wrap.	But it is
>worth it.  Trust me.


Thanks. I haven't had the time to set up the proper search binary
yet. Also sunsite has had trouble with various search software--believe
me, once the dust settle, I'll fix up the archive to be searchable from
"Apis" to "Zoraptaran".

Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein                   
adamf@vt.edu              
http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/adamf


Article 15003 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Harry Goudie" <luichart.woollens@virgin.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: The Varroa proof hive
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 14:44:07 -0000
Organization: Virgin News Service
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Further to my post on varroa prevention.  The formic acid bath method seems
to be almost possible.  I envisage the "bath" to be the same dimensions as
the hive (or perhaps longer) covered with wire mesh over which the bees
walk.  The hive would then be turned through 180 degrees so that the
original entrance is now at the back placed on top of the bath in such a way
that a tunnel exists between the hive floor and the mesh.  The original
entrance being enclosed at the far end of the tunnel.  Now I think it would
take a bee about 3 seconds to walk through this tunnel.  Do you think that
would be long enough exposure to kill the mite?

The following is a quote from Dominic ebacher:-

>I have heard of it, and seen it used in several hives to prevent the
>spread of
>mites.  It is a natural mite killer and when I saw it used it was just
>dripped
>onto a piece of cloth and placed over the frames, you could watch >the dead
mites
>accumulate in a pan beneath the super, it was amazing.

How long did it take to kill the mites Dominic?

Francis commented that:-
>You'd have to prevent the entry of Varroa 100.000% shure, because >the
first
>one to enter your hive will lay eggs in the brood cells and multiply >and
>multiply i n s i d e.

I am not sure what 100.000% is but I would be quite happy if 50% kill could
be achieved at the first attempt.  If you got it working a wee bit you
could probably improve the next time.





Article 15004 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: kj@jaf.nildram.NOSPAMco.uk (Kidney John)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Searching http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 14:51:07 GMT
Message-ID: <364ee786.3757398@goodnews.nildram.co.uk>
References: <72bthp$hps@news.voyager.net> <72jbf3$3mg$1@golux.radix.net> <72jdk2$3ps$1@golux.radix.net> <364E33FB.B3E34EB8@valley.net> <72m0oq$7f2$1@golux.radix.net>
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15004

On 15 Nov 1998 07:44:26 -0000, adamf@golux.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
wrote:
[re; archives]

>In article <364E33FB.B3E34EB8@valley.net>,
>Bill Greenrose  <bill.greenrose@valley.net> wrote:
>>
>>i tried it, and it works really well, especially if you go to the advanced
>>search page, where you can customize your search.

Me, too.
 
it would be nice, if the
>>search results highlighted your key words, like the search engine used by deja
>>news, especially for the very long log texts.  but, the 'find' feature of
>>netscape works in a pinch.

I'll go along with that too...
Very useful.  (A bit disconcerting to find one of my search results was
written by my self!)   It's bookmarked. 
-- 
KJ@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk


Article 15005 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: allend@internode.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: to wrap or not to wrap?
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 16:05:56 GMT
Organization: Deja News - The Leader in Internet Discussion
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> in this month's issue of bee culture brad kurtz gives a number of
> reasons why wrapping a hive is not a good idea...

Well, this is a case where the internet can be a source of discussion and
ideas, but your local beekeepers are the only real source of truth.

Up here in Alberta, we could get away without wrapping about half the time.
The trouble is that we never know which winter will kill most of the hives in
advance, so we do have to wrap.

For wrapping ideas, visit http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/unwrap.htm
and http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Pix/

But make sure your decision is based on at least 10 years of LOCAL experience
where you live.

Allen

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Has anyone every considered wraping there hivws with TYPAR, I was taking
construction wit a friend, when we got on the topic of House wrap, and
then it dawned on me.

a:  Typar has no insulating value, but is wind proof, thereby cutting
down on draft in hive

b:  Typar radiates moisture only one way, out.  When wraped properly, it
wound draw moisture out, and not let any in.

Has anyone tried it, and if so, how are your winters in you
region.(mild, long, snowy, etc..)

Allen Banks



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From: Tom Speight <Tom@tomsp8.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: observation hive question
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In article <364db483.0@news.aiusa.com>, logcabin <logcabin@qaiusqa.com>
writes
>I was wondering if bees truly need to fly to excrete waste?  I was
>thinking of making a separate chamber for them to go into via the exit hole.
Bees don't HAVE to fly to defecate, One sometimes finds yellow tell-tele
marks on the frames etc, especially when they are suffering from
dysentery. During the winter, they may not fly for weeks and their
rectum can expand to more than twice it's normal size to accommodate the
build-up of waste matter.
However, any disease the bees may have, such as AFB, EFB, nosema, ameoba
is spread by the bees cleaning out the affected cells and inadvertently
feeding the spores to young lava in the brood food or when passsing
nectar to each other.
Unless you have a strain of bee which doesn't clean out the cells, let
them fly and save yourself (and possibly any neighbouring beekeepers) a
lot of problems.
-- 
Tom S


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Hello John:

We are in the Dry Ridge, KY area.  There are many beekeepers in the
Cincinnati area, I am not sure if any in town, though.  The local bee
inspector is great guy.  Could answer a whole lot of questions.  There is
also a Southeast Ohio beekeepers club and a Northern Kentucky beekeepers
club.  The southeast ohio is right in your area.

Couple things to look at:   1)  Any swimming pools nearby?  Where would
your source for water for your bees be located?   2)  If you keep bees in a
populated area, will they have a clear flight path?  So that no one would
inadvertently be standing directly in their line of flight?  A fence, or
bushes, that they must fly over will help with this.  3)  Are there any
ordinances against keeping bees, or limiting their number?  The inspector
should be able to help with this.  4)  There is a guy on the west side of
Cincinnati that sells bee equipment from his home.  He might know of others
within the town limits.  Will try to find his name for you.

I think I have info from last year's bee program at Scarlet Oaks.  It is
usually in March.  It is great for newcomers.  You might like to attend. 
The Ag Extension office knows of it.  Or you can call the Oaks school,
that's what we did three years ago.

Good Luck

Judy and Dave




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From: allend@internode.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 22:09:42 GMT
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> >>I'm thinking maybe a small thermonuclear device....  :)
> >
> >Think BIG
> >--
> >Tom
>
> Personally, I think this is a job for star wars technology!  Sensors to
> detect incoming bees with VMAs (Varroa mites attached) and BIG nuclear
> reactor powered laser beams to fry the mites while leaving the bee
> unharmed!!!

C'mon now, you guys aren't thinking like beekeepers now...

The _correct_ answer is obviously to nuke your *neighbour's'* hives and bees
not yours, 'cause THAT's where the mites obviously come fro.  And then for
good measure close all the borders that other beekeepers might cross to bring
their infested bees near you.

Right?  Right!!!

Allen

:) Approved by the bee humour regulatory agency.

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From: "Ulli Hoeger" <uhogerdelete@tupphysiol1.bp.dal.ca>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: The Varroa proof hive
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You think to much.  Before you start to install your ideas, get some
information how formic acid is working.  The bees don't need a food-bath,
nor direct contact to the fluid acid.  BTW  bees are also affected by
formic acid, you can't use any possible concentration and amount.

Regards

Ulli



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From: morfydd@my-dejanews.com
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In article <72mp8q$a5a$1@nclient3-gui.server.virgin.net>,
  "Harry Goudie" <luichart.woollens@virgin.net> wrote:
> Further to my post on varroa prevention.  The formic acid bath method seems
> to be almost possible.  I envisage the "bath" to be the same dimensions as
> the hive (or perhaps longer) covered with wire mesh over which the bees
> walk.  The hive would then be turned through 180 degrees so that the
> original entrance is now at the back placed on top of the bath in such a way
> that a tunnel exists between the hive floor and the mesh.  The original
> entrance being enclosed at the far end of the tunnel.  Now I think it would
> take a bee about 3 seconds to walk through this tunnel.  Do you think that
> would be long enough exposure to kill the mite?
>
> The following is a quote from Dominic ebacher:-
>
> >I have heard of it, and seen it used in several hives to prevent the
> >spread of
> >mites.  It is a natural mite killer and when I saw it used it was just
> >dripped
> >onto a piece of cloth and placed over the frames, you could watch >the dead
> mites
> >accumulate in a pan beneath the super, it was amazing.
>
> How long did it take to kill the mites Dominic?
>
> Francis commented that:-
> >You'd have to prevent the entry of Varroa 100.000% shure, because >the
> first
> >one to enter your hive will lay eggs in the brood cells and multiply >and
> >multiply i n s i d e.
>
> I am not sure what 100.000% is but I would be quite happy if 50% kill could
> be achieved at the first attempt.  If you got it working a wee bit you
> could probably improve the next time.
>
> in the uk we use the varroa screen simply to filter dead varroa from
the bees when they the varroa have been killed. it is not used for killing
the varroa. after filtering the varroa are counted and then a compaarison
is made to decide whether treatment is necessary

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From: disabledvet2@my-dejanews.com
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Subject: What Type Bees
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Hi All:

  I have several questions that relate to what type of bees I should pursue. 
I live in Reno, Nevada - alitude 4,500 feet.  The weather during winter will
drop below 32 degrees and sometimes will drop below 20 degrees.  This drop
between 10-20 degrees below 32 can be for several weeks and the high normally
is in the 40 - 50 degrees during the day.  Summer during the evening/morning
can be 40-50 degrees and range in the high 80's to 90's during the daytime;
sometimes a period of 100 degrees will last 7-12 days and this will be during
either August or September.  Normally this 100 degrees is a one time shot
during the summer  During my previous description to this ng of my physical
limitations, I have acknowledged that I can only handle one Kenya type hive
and no more than one. Additionally, this hive will be in my backyard - 1/3 of
an acre & I'm surrounded by 9 neighbors.  So I submit the following questions
for your considered:  a)  I would like to have the type of bees that are the
most docile and can take my fumbling & stumbling with them.  Also, the
potential exists for young grandchildren to be curious.  Therefore should I
enclosed the hive with either "T" posts & hog wire or a wooden fence
enclosure?  b)	I feel that I would not want more than 10 pounds of honey
annually; total for myself and as a goodwill gesture to my neighbors.  c)  A
type of bee that won't go flying off into the sunset and will stay on the
homestead.  d)	I have been with the Nevada Association of Beekeepers - none
of the membership has "backyard" hive(s).  The Association membership is
geared more toward commercial or 10+ hives - but, none are a "hobbyist urban
backyard beekeeper."  e)  I have read the article from the author in New
Mexico - he is about 1,000 feet higher that us in Reno.  He uses the Kenya
hive (tbh) with about 15 frames as he feels this appropriate for the area he
lives in.  f)  I realize that I have more reading to do, equipment to
purchase and finally build a Kenya hive - in other words I do not know
diddly-do & am going to have to be hand feed.

  So I place myself in your hands as to what type of bee I would be most
satisfied with.  One strain of bee is not going to fulfill all my requirements
nor have all the characteristics that I am searching for - but, there must be
one type of bee that will fulfill the majority of my requirements.  I am sure
that I have left out many "characteristics" that are more important.
  Thanking you in advance.
  Dick Squires

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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Honey Labels
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> ...and adhering them to the glass bottles by painting the
> back with milk. It really works! And they come off easily just by soaking
> them.

A glue stick works well too, and they do soak off quickly.  A Scotchbrite or
Chore Girl makes the job easy.

Allen

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From: "badaev" <badaev@uame.com.ua>
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Subject: Анонс Еженедельного информационно-аналитического бюллетеня АГРОМОНИТОР #6
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              АНОНС информации, опубликованой на сервере
                      Украинской Аграрной Биржи
    ***********************************************************
                          2 ноября - 8 ноября
    ***********************************************************


Вышел шестой выпуск еженедельного информационно-аналитического
бюллетеня АГРОМОНИТОР от 9 ноября 1998 г.

http://agromonitor.uame.com.ua/
http://agromonitor.uame.com.ua:90/AM/index.html

Выпуск #6 http://agromonitor.uame.com.ua:90/am/com/06/index.html

                    В выпуске:
                    ----------


         ****** Новости недели ********
         ******************************
- В Украине практически завершена уборка урожая сахарной свеклы.
- Валовой сбор свеклы составил 15,4 млн. т
- Продолжается уборка кукурузы на зерно.
- Постановлением ВР от 4 ноября меры КМ по стабилизации
  сельхозпроизводства признаны неудовлетворительными.
- Правление Украинской зерновой ассоциации (УЗА) объявило о начале
  учебной программы для трейдеров-участников зернового и масличного
  рынков Украины.
- По данным Национальной ассоциации "Укрсахар", по состоянию на 30
  октября: Получено...
- На заседании КМ рассмотрен ряд вопросов, в т.ч.
  О погашении кредитов, полученных под гарантии КМ. ...
- Постановлением КМ ?1702 от 28.10.98г. обладминистрациям и Совмину
  АРК поручено обеспечить до 1.12.98г. погашение задолженности
  сельхозпроизводителей за полученные топливо, семена, минудобрения и
  другие ресурсы под урожай-98.
- По сообщению УНИАН, Леонид Кучма поручил Премьеру рассмотреть
  вопросы о дополнении перечня и о повышении ставок ввозной пошлины
  на пищевые продукты ...
- 5 ноября ВС принял Закон "О фиксированном сельскохозяйственном налоге".
- По информации Минагропрома, обеспеченность кормами животноводческих
  хозяйств в сезоне 1998/99г. составит около 26 млн. т корм. ед. ...
- По данным Госкомстата, за период с 16 по 27 октября 1998г. цены на
  продукты питания в торговой сети возросли на 2,2%.
- 30 октября Леонид Кучма заявил о готовности инициировать отмену НДС
  для экспортируемой в Россию сельхозпродукции.


       ***** Ход полевых работ *******
       *******************************
- Ход уборки сахарной свеклы, по состоянию на 2.11.98г.
- Ход уборки кукурузы на зерно, по состоянию на 3.11.98г.
- Вспахано на зябь, по состоянию на 3.11.98г.


      ****** Экспорт агропродукции в сентябре 1998 г. ******
      ******************************************************
- Горох. В сентябре 1998 г. экспорт гороха из Украины снова вырос и
  составил  почти 26,6 тыс. т
- Пшеница. В сентябре объемы экспорта пшеницы из Украины резко упали.
- Ячмень.  Экспорт ячменя из Украины в сентябре снизился почти в
  полтора  раза по сравнению с августом и составил 37,5 тыс. т
- Кукуруза. В сентябре резко снизился экспорт кукурузы из Украины.
- Семена подсолнечника. В сентябре экспорт семян подсолнечника из
  Украины почти в тысячу с лишним раз увеличился по сравнению с
  августом и составил 15,5 тыс. т
- Подсолнечное масло. Сентябрьские отгрузки подсолнечного масла из
  Украины составили почти 1,4 тыс. т на общую сумму 1 млн.
  долларов США.
- Сахар. В сентябре экспорта сахара составил 2,6 тыс. т на сумму
  895 тыс. долларов США,


     ****** Внебиржевой рынок агропродукции ******
     *********************************************
- Зерновые Продовольственная пшеница В минувшую неделю продолжался
  уверенный рост цен предложений и закупочных цен на партии
  1-20 тыс. т продовольственной пшеницы 3-го кл.
- Фуражное зерно Не снижался интерес зарубежных компаний к экспортным
  корабельным нормам фуражного ячменя.
- Масличные  Подсолнечное масло Рынок минувшей недели был насыщен
  многочисленными предложениями крупных компаний и небольших фирм по
  продаже масловозами
- Подсолнечник Спрос на подсолнечник на внутреннем и экспортном рынках
  значительно превышал предложения.
- Сахар В прошедшую неделю продолжалось стремительное снижение цен
  на сахар.
- Комбикорма За минувшие 2 месяца значительно упал спрос на все виды
  комбикормов и резко снизился товарооборот комбикормовых заводов.


     ***** Украинские порты *******
     ******************************
- Несмотря на постоянный рост объемов переработки грузов в целом,
  производственные мощности морских торговых портов Украины в
  настоящее время используются на 35-50% от возможных.
- Одесский порт, Южный порт, Ильичевский порт, Николаевский порт,
  Херсонский порт, Керченский порт, Феодосийский порт, Ренийский порт,
  Бердянский порт, Белгород-Днестровский порт, Мариупольский порт,
  Измаильский порт, Усть-Дунайский порт - по прибытию, по отправлению...


      *******  Некоторые тенденции европейского агрорынка ********
      ************************************************************
- Ожидания решения вопроса об европейской продовольственной помощи
  России привели к росту цен на зерновые в ЕС.
- После нескольких недель роста цен на продовольственное зерно в
  Германии, вызванного ожиданиями начала поставок продовольственной
  помощи России, на прошедшей неделе цены стабилизировались.
- Французский рынок масличных Ливневые дожди, прошедшие во Франции в
  конце сентября - начале ноября, привели к сокращению валового сбора
  и ухудшению качества семян подсолнечника.


     ******* Бюллетень мировых котировок биржевых фьючерсов *******
     **************************************************************

     ******* Агрорынки стран СНГ *********
     *************************************
- США объявили о решении предоставить России продовольственную помощь.
- Экспорт пшеницы из России в 3 кв. 1998 г. резко вырос по сравнению
  с аналогичным периодом прошлого года.
- В России к началу ноября намолочено 51,5 миллиона тонн зерна, что на
  45,7 процента меньше прошлогоднего.
- Казахстан в 1998 году снизил производство зерна более чем на 40%.


    ******** Баланс рынка подсолнечника России *********
    ****************************************************
- Несмотря на прогнозируемое увеличение производства семян подсолнечника
  в России в 1998/99 МГ, оно, вероятно, будет на более чем 100 тыс. т
  ниже, чем ранее прогнозировалось, ...
- Экспорт семян подсолнечника становится наиболее привлекательным как для
  производителей, так и для трейдеров, ...
- Подсолнечниковый шрот Прогнозируемое увеличение объемов внутренней
  переработки семян подсолнечника в России в 1998/99 МГ должно
  привести к росту производства подсолнечникового шрота.
- Подсолнечное масло Несмотря на растущий спрос на продукты питания
  на внутреннем рынке России, мы не прогнозируем увеличения импорта
  подсолнечного масла, ...
- Импорт  Августовская девальвация рубля оказала на импорт масличных
  в Россию наиболее негативное влияние.

        ******** Торги на биржах Украины 4.11.98 *****
       (информация национальной ассоциации бирж Украины)
       *************************************************


        ******** В ближайших выпусках: ********
        ***************************************

- Украина: как мы регулируем цены
- импорт растительных масел и сахара-сырца в сентябре
- сравнение показателей качества пшеницы в Украине и США
- обзор рынка семян подсолнечника Украины
- обзор рынка гороха
- обзор мировых рынков зерновых и масличных
- стандарты США на ячмень


        **** Результаты торгов на Украинской Аграрной Бирже 11.11.98
        --------------------------------------------------------
http://trade.uame.com.ua:85/torgi/

* Цены снятия заявок на УАБ 11.11.1998
   http://trade.uame.com.ua:85/torgi/ceni-snatia-111198.html
* Информация по заявкам на УАБ 11.11.1998
  http://trade.uame.com.ua:85/torgi/reg-zaja-111198.html


  !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
               ВНИМАНИЕ
  !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- АГРОМОНИТОР также распространяется в формате Acrobat *.pdf
  Полный текст Агромонитора Вы можете получить на ВЭБ-сервере
  http://agromonitor.uame.com.ua:90/AM/com/06/AgroM6.PDF
  (Для зарегистрированных подписчиков)

- Информацию  о подписке на АгроМонитор, можете прочитать на сервере
  по адресу http://trade.uame.com.ua:85/analyt1/uslugi-index.htm

- Если у вас возникают проблемы с загрузкой информации с нашего
  основного ВЭБ сервера - у нас появилось"Зеркало" - копия информации
  находится по адресу http://exp.uame.com.ua





Article 15015 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Body Test


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From: "Joan Casals i Anna Ginebra" <aginebra@pie.xtec.es>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Informacion para EspaЯa
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Hola.: Desearia informacion sobre cajas para abejas

grЮcias


aginebra@gregal.xtec.es





Article 15017 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Bluedorn <trivium@muscanet.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Painting Old Hives
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:38:15 -0600
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I just bought same old hives from a beekeeper near me. I want to
clean them up for next year and I was wondering if anyone could give me
a little advice on three questions:

    1) How should I sterilize these old hives? I have scrubbed them and
soaked them in bleach and I am going to scrape them and repaint them. Is
this enough?

    2) Will it hurt my bees next spring if I paint the insides of the
brood supers? I will use oil-based paint and let the paint dry for at
least a month before I put the bees in them.

    3) What color should I paint the outside of my hives? I have two
concerns; a) keeping them cool in the hot summer sun, b) camouflaging
them in case some hooligans see them and vandalize them. I was thinking
grass green would be a good color, but then they might got too hot in
summer.

    I would appreciate any points you might have for me.
    Nathaniel in northwest Illinois


Article 15018 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Chris Hedemark <hedemark@us.ibm.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: honey near Hillsborough, NC?
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workerbee wrote:

> You have Jack Tapp right there at you. He lives the first house off I-40
> at exit 263(New Hope Church Road). Tele 919-942-2006.

Thanks.  I grabbed three quarts on Friday and boy is it gooood. :-)

-- 

Chris Hedemark
hedemark@us.ibm.com


Article 15019 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "heifner" <heifner@gateway.net>
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Subject: Beginner
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Help!

I own some property on the Gulf Coast of Mississippi and have about 12 acres
with lots of crimson clover, tupelo trees, etc.  Plenty of water and all
types of flowers (this spring).

My problem is I can find no local bee keepers to get me started.  I just
want to fool with a few hives to augment my "farming hobby".  The
information from the local library is very dated.  I'm a good woodworker
(should I build the hives???) I need some information to get me started and
a source of (inexpensive) hives, centrifuge, jars, bees, equipment, etc.

Any help would be appreciated.

"Farmer Tom"




Article 15020 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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>Help!

get ya a catalog 1-800-beeswax
brushy mountain bee farm
good prices lots a help

Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15021 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Harry Goudie" <luichart.woollens@virgin.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: The Varroa proof hive
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Ulli Hoeger wrote in message <01be10e6$eeebb5e0$cf58ad81@ulli.BP.Dal.Ca>...
>
>
>You think to much.  Before you start to install your ideas, get some
>information how formic acid is working.  The bees don't need a food-bath,
>nor direct contact to the fluid acid.  BTW  bees are also affected by
>formic acid, you can't use any possible concentration and amount.


Yes I do think far too much in fact all the time.  I think the only way to
stop that is to die!  It is one of the problems associated with being born a
human.  I did not intend the bees to paddle across the bath of acid.  They
cross above the bath on a piece of wire net so they are only exposed to the
fumes from the acid and then only for a few seconds   The main problem I see
with the formic acid is that it would have to be replaced all the time as it
would evaporate and that would probably be quite costly.  However provided
the mite could be knocked off the bee within about 3 seconds then I can't
see the set up not working.  Perhaps some other chemical would be more
appropriate and because the chemical is outwith the hive and therefore is
not contaminating hive or honey you  have a large choice.
Thank you for your comments.  I would like to try to keep this thread going
as I don't think the idea of keeping the varroa mites from entering the hive
has been exhausted yet.  Please keep the ideas coming!




Article 15022 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "alturedipolazzo" <alturedipolazzo@code.it>
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.fruit,alt.agriculture.misc,alt.anagrams.witsend,alt.sustainable.agriculture,bionet.agroforestry,sci.agriculture,sci.agriculture.aquaculture,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.fruit,sci.agriculture.poultry,sci.agriculture.
Subject: Agriturismo in Friuli Venezia Giuglia
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We are the Agrituristic farm PARCO RURALE "ALTURE DI POLAZZO" if you want
make a good holiday in the green you can look the web page
http://www.code.it/alturedipolazzo or can write on e-mail
alturedipolazzo@code.it




Article 15023 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: jcaldeira@earthlink.net (John Caldeira)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 01:06:01 GMT
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"Harry Goudie" <luichart.woollens@virgin.net> wrote:

>... if you could prevent the varroa mite from entering the hive
>in the first place then the problem would be solved.  How would you achieve
>this?

Perhaps the quoted idea below for controlling wax moth will give
someone ideas.  This serious entry is from an old book titled "Moore's
Universal Assistant and Complete Mechanic," published 120 years ago,
in 1878, in the beekeeping section (p. 72).  Quote:

  "HENS MADE TO PROTECT BEES. - A bee raiser has patented an invention
for the protection of bees from the attacks of the honey bee moth,
which enters the hives at night, and rifles the stores....  Hens, he
observed, retire to rest early; but bees seek repose earlier still; no
sooner are they sunk into slumber, than the moths steals into their
abode and devours the produce of their toil.  He has now built a stand
of hives with a hen house connected.  The bees first betake themselves
to their dwelling and settle themselves for the night.  The hens then
come home to roost on their perch, and as they take their places upon
it, their weight sets some simple mechanism to work, which at once
shuts down the doors of all the hives.  When the day dawns, however,
the hens leave their roost, and the removal of their weight from the
perch raises the hive doors, and gives egress to the bees in time for
their morning's work."

End quote.   Perhaps not appropriate for varroa, and somewhat
misguided, but a clever idea.

Cheers,
John


John Caldeira
Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/



Article 15024 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: skep615@aol.com (SKEP615)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Historical aspects of beekeeping
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*The Archaeology of Beekeeping* by Eva Crane (Ithaca, NY, USA: Cornell
University Press, 1983). It should be available through interlibrary loan. Or
you could purchase your own copy directly from Cornell UP for upwards of $50.
Hardcover. It attempts to look at the worldwide picture of ancient, premodern
and  early modern beekeeping. Lots of photographs and drawings. Appendix 2
consists of a list (with addresses and phone numbers) of beekeeping museums or
collections of beekeeping-relevant materials in other museums. They are mostly,
though not exclusively, in Europe.

I hope you find this book. No book can completely satisfy our expectations or
needs. But this is a very interesting book. -- Paul

>From: aengus1@aol.com (Aengus1)
>Date: Tue, Nov 10, 1998 10:28 EST
>Message-id: <19981110102822.24436.00002011@ng137.aol.com>
>
>Greetings all,
>I am interested in learning more on the historical aspects of beekeeping,
>particularly pre 1600. My local libraries don't have much information on the
>subject and interlibrary loans have proved to be less than useful.
>
>Can any of you refer me to books/publications that can aid me in my research?
>Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Dave
>
>



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Paul Kent Oakley
The Sabine Farm
Ava, Illinois (85 miles SE of St.Louis)

send any e-mail to me at:   YELKAO615  at  AOL dot COM

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Article 15025 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Painting Old Hives
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>1) How should I sterilize these old hives? I have scrubbed them and
>soaked them in bleach and I am going to scrape them and repaint them. Is
>this enough?

scorch the inside with a propane torch
this is almost the only way to kill foulbrood
ya dont have to set em on fire just scorch em black

> Will it hurt my bees next spring if I paint the insides of the
>brood supers? I will use oil-based paint and let the paint dry for at
>least a month before I put the bees in them.

not the best idea, it'll seal them too good, high moisture isn't good. just do
as above and paint the outside after a good sanding with a good exterior latex
paint, i use a 30 yr primer, takes good care of the wood

>) What color should I paint the outside of my hives? I have two
>concerns; a) keeping them cool in the hot summer sun, b) camouflaging
>them in case some hooligans see them and vandalize them. I was thinking
>grass green would be a good color, but then they might got too hot in
>summer.

white is best of course due to heat concerns but a light green will work if
you're interested in keeping away from prying eyes.

as a postscript i must also mention the old timers cure,
place a 55 gal barrel on bricks, fill half way with water add 1 box lye per 5
gal of water WHILE WATER COLD !!!!!!!!!!!!!! boiling water explodes lye on
contact !!!!
build fire under barrel, boil hive bodies,frames,bottom boards everything.
Don't soak it mind ya just imerse lomg enough for the cracks to get it too, oh
bout 40 seconds. 
I use a pitch fork to lift stuff in and out.

NOW BE CAREFUL THIS STUFF WILL BLIND YOU AND EAT YOUR SKIN OFF but it is a
wonderful way to sterialize equipment and a tight lid will let ya use it over
and over.
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15026 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture,sci.agriculture.aquaculture,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.fruit,sci.agriculture.poultry,sci.agriculture.ratites
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savini@savini.it






Article 15027 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: helmick@webtv.net (donna helmick)
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Subject: Hive population problem
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     While checking two hives I have in a bee yard some distance from
home, I found one to be very healthy and full of bees while the other is
very weak.  I was a little late getting the Apistan on.  By the time I
did, many of the new bees had deformed wings in the weaker hive.  
     Both colonies are Buckfast and were started at the same time and
until recently were about the same strength.  The bees in the weak hive
were always much gentler than the second hive.  The second hive has
always been very aggressive and are prone to attack even before their
hive is approached. 
     I live in North Central WV.  Our weather has been fairly moderate
(50's) except for cold frosty nights (20's and 30's) and most days the
bees are active.  I have a few options for dealing with these hives but
am not sure what would be best.  I would appreciate any advice this news
group can give me.              
     I would like to replace the queen of the aggressive hive with the
one from the weaker hive and just combine the two hives.  Do you think
it is too late in the season to do this?  Is the queen from the weaker
hive too stressed to survive? Should I just add more bees to the weaker
hive and hope they make it through the winter?  Both hives still have
enough honey for the winter.  I don't think the hive is being robbed by
the other one, at least not yet.
     I had intended to replace both queens in the spring anyway.  Is
there any advantage to even trying to save this colony.  Thanks in
advance for any advice you can give me.
 



Article 15028 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Braula coeca
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 12:28:55 GMT
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"Tom Speight" <Beehive@apiary2.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:

>Can anyone tell me the life cycle (in time) of the braula or bee louse.
>I know it's a fly, and that it has stages, egg, larva, pupa and fly.
>None of the books I have read give time spans, or how long the adult is
>liable to live.
>Any information welcome.
>thanks

Contact Bart Smith @ MD Dept of Ag.  He is the expert on
this critter.  410 841-5920

Greg the beekeep




       //          Bee Just & Just Bee!        
  =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA    
       \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs

              



Article 15029 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: formic acid
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>It a world where terrorist
>can get materials like anthrax and plutonium it amazes me that beekeepers
>cannot get formic acid!!!
> 
>Aaron Morris - thinkin

fellows lets think about this a sec....
if you had a monopoly on a varroa treatment, and enough money to prevent anyone
else from getting another treatment onto the market what would you do ?

its those damn friggin pardon my french pharm companies, they've got us by the
maguppies and ain't gonna turn loose.

Look if the guys in fla can get hold of coumafas then we can too, just show me
where; and damn the regs i'll use it !!!!!
That goes for formic too, soon as i find a supplier, its on mine. I can't
afford to wait till another poltician gets a bj , by then all my bees will be
dead.

there i've said my piece.
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15030 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Marc W. Wachter" <mwachter@netreach.net>
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I'd have to agree with Kevin, I've been running pound for pound, item for
item comparisons against other suppliers and Brushy Mountain seems to have
the best prices.  Also, if you can, get someone else involved and buy in
bulk.

Marc Wachter
Bluebird Hill Apiaries





Article 15031 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "C.R. Crowell" <Curtiscrow@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Painting Old Hives
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>>1) How should I sterilize these old hives? I have scrubbed them and
>>soaked them in bleach and I am going to scrape them and repaint them. Is
>>this enough?
....the reccomendation to use lye, or to scorch until black, does this mean
that
bleach does not kill the AFB spores?  If soap and water is OK for hive tools
and
gloves, what about using it for woodenware (assuming no comb, of course) /

/C.Crowell




Article 15032 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: Pierco frame prep.
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The guy at Pierco once lead me to beleive that he uses a spray device, maybe 
try this with a spray bottle like an old windex bottle or something similar.

In article <364DD9E6.C2587847@teleport.com>, pbc@teleport.com says...
>
>Hello,
>
>I have tried several methods of applying wax to pierco frames.  The method
>that works best for me is a cheap sponge.  Dip one of the ends in hot wax
>and leave the other end dry for use as a handle.
>
>The wax has to be at the right temperature.  If it is too cool, it will
>begin to solidify before you have it all spread.  Don't get the wax too
>hot or it will begin to disolve the sponge.  But if you have it at the
>right temperature, you will end up with a very fine coating over the
>entire surface.
>
>Good Luck,
>
>Paul
>Bee Friendly
>
>
>bates wrote:
>
>> I am at present trying out some Pierco plastic frames, & have been
>> trying to coat them with wax; which seems to be the best way to get
>> the bees to start drawing them. I have been melting the wax and
>> brushing it on the frames, but have found it impossible to achieve
>> anything like an even thin layer of wax. I end up with a thick dob of
>> wax where the brush first touches the frame, and a very thin smear
>> elsewhere. The bees do draw the comb whereever there is wax, but seem
>> reluctant to draw the areas that don't get a coating. Anyone have a
>> good method of doing this?
>> (I have also tried the method suggested by Pierco of spraying the
>> frames with sugar syrup instead of waxing them, but I think the bees
>> are much more willing to start drawing comb consistantly if there is a
>> coating of wax).
>> The frames that the bees have drawn completely are great, I seem to
>> get consistantly better combs drawn on Pierco than conventional
>> wood/wax/wire frames; and they should be much better when it comes to
>> extracting the thixotropic Manuka honey the bees are gathering.
>>
>> fbates@ihug.co.nz
>
>
>



Article 15033 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
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>Subject: Re: Varroa prevention

>In article

>>I'm thinking maybe a small thermonuclear device....  :)
>
>Think BIG
>-- 
>Tom

ah human nature....don't ya love it.....

if ya can't beat em......

NUKE EM !!!!!!!   hehehehheeee
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


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> as a postscript i must also mention the old timers cure,
> place a 55 gal barrel on bricks, fill half way with water add 1 box lye per 5
> gal of water WHILE WATER COLD !!!!!!!!!!!!!! boiling water explodes lye on
> contact !!!!
> build fire under barrel, boil hive bodies,frames,bottom boards everything.
> Don't soak it mind ya just imerse lomg enough for the cracks to get it too, oh
> bout 40 seconds.
> I use a pitch fork to lift stuff in and out.

What do you do with the left-over lye-water?



Article 15035 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: ANNOUNCEMENT : New Agricultural products
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An Agricultural Products Expo with worldwide appeal is now conveniently
online. New products for all sectors of the agricultural industry are
continually being showcased at www.expo.co.za/agriculture.html






Article 15036 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: formic acid
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"Anne J. Hacker" <ajhacker@voyager.net> wrote:

>I got a phone call from my sister the other night asking if I use formic
>acid to prevent veroa mites. I said no, that I had never heard of it. Anyone
>out there heard of such a thing. Seems that if it were approved, (by the
>FDA) I'd have heard of it, but then again, maybe my "reliable sources" don't
>use it so they don't pass it along.

USDA in Beltsville has been working on formic acid for some
time.  They developed a gel pack that was supposed to be
released to us by this fall.  This has yet to happen and I
have not heard of any new release dates.  

These formic acid gel packs are only 80% efective against
Varroa mites.  They are 100% effective against treacheal
mites and will probably cost the same as menthol packs.  The
net increased cost to the beekeeper would be $0.00 as
menthol would be replaced.

What I am skeptical about is the fact that every hive that I
saw, inside and out, that had the gell packs applied looked
very weak.  This was also very evident in slides that were
presented on the subject taken a year earlier.  

Greg the beekeep.





       //          Bee Just & Just Bee!        
  =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA    
       \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs

              



Article 15037 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: AL <lithar@midwest.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 14:59:05 -0600
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Harry Goudie wrote:
<snip>
> bees walk across a bath of acid don't
> make the bees go through a hot chamber.
> Perhaps you could electrocute them!
<snip>

I'm thinking maybe a small thermonuclear device....  :)

AL


Article 15038 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: Tom Speight <Tom@tomsp8.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa prevention
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 22:45:53 +0000
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In article <3649FA99.152F@midwest.net>, AL <lithar@midwest.net> writes
>I'm thinking maybe a small thermonuclear device....  :)

Think BIG
-- 
Tom


Article 15039 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: workerbee <dvisrael@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Two queens
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 16:23:22 -0500
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Hived bees from the wall of an oul house last Saturday. There were a lot
of gnawed queen cells. No honey. Found the queen in the bees and put
them in a shallow of pulled foundation. Peeked at them today and found
two queens side by side. Maybe both are virgins. I felt like it was a
late swarm and they superceeded the queen. At any rate, with no stores
they were doomed. If both are still there Sat, I plan to take the
smaller one out for a young man to add to his collection.
Don in NC



Article 15040 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Painting Old Hives
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>What do you do with the left-over lye-water?
>

well ya can always make soap

actually the barrel will last @ a year before the lye eats through it, or if ya
want to kill some weeds, pour it on em.
I'd definately suggest not setting up near your well.

oh yeah and if you love the tree you sit up under then dont, the fumes eat
leaves but as bad as a sour still
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15041 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Carniolan Bees?
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 13:18:20 GMT
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Bluedorn <trivium@muscanet.com> wrote:

>Next spring I am expanding my one hobby hive to five hives.
>    What variety of bees should I order in the spring? 

If you wait until spring you will be too late.  You should
order your packages no later than the first of February.

>Who would be a reputable supplier from whom I can order carniolans?

Busby's Apiaries.  504 735-5330
His carniolans are really gentle bees.  You can  work them
stark naked with only a smoker.

Greg the beekeep







       //          Bee Just & Just Bee!        
  =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA    
       \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs

              



Article 15042 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Painting Old Hives
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>>soaked them in bleach and I am going to scrape them and repaint them. Is
>>>this enough?
>....the reccomendation to use lye, or to scorch until black, does this mean
>that
>bleach does not kill the AFB spores?  If soap and water i

 it has been seriously theorised that an atomic blast might kill the foulbrood
spore. There are spores in the lab that are still viable after 45 years.

PLEASE NOTE !!!!!! MY PREVIOUS MIXTURE OF 1 BOX LYE TO 5 GAL OF WATER IS
WRONG..... THE MIX IS 1 BOX LYE PER 10 GAL

Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15043 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Wooden ware sterilization(CORRECTION)
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>he old timers cure,
>place a 55 gal barrel on bricks, fill half way with water add 1 box lye per 5
>gal of water WHILE WATER COLD !!!!!!!!!!!!!! boiling water explodes lye on
>contact !!!!

Please forgive my error
THE MIXTURE IS 1 BOX LYE TO 10 GAL OF WATER !!!!!!!!
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15044 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: formic acid
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 98 08:07:52 EST
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15044

In article <72d4hn$21n$1@news1.Radix.Net>
honeybs@radix.net (honeybs) writes:
 
>USDA in Beltsville has been working on formic acid for some
>time.  They developed a gel pack that was supposed to be
>released to us by this fall.  This has yet to happen and I
>have not heard of any new release dates.
>
The latest hurdle in the long awaited release of the gel formulation of
formic acid regards shipping of hazardous materials.  EPA has approved
gel formic for use, a license to produce gel formic has been granted to
Betterbee (Greenwich, NY) - I believe all the other potential
distributors dropped out for various reasons.  The problem Betterbee is
having now are the restrictions on shipping hazardous materials - formic
acid is such nasty stuff that the packing materials required to contain
it are very cost prohibitive.  I recall (and PLEASE realize this is my
recollection, subject to my Alzheimers-like tendencies) that  the best
candidate for a shipping container was teflon coated.  Formic acid does
not attack teflon.  Current "hopes" for commercial release of gel formic
are for next spring, but I stopped holding my breath for it's release
after the promise that gel formic would be available in Fall '96.  I
attended a seminar once where Dr. Shimanuki (develorer of gel formic)
stated that THE MOST frustrating failure in his entire career was the
entire process to bring gel formic to the beekeeping community.
 
Aaron Morris - thinking what this world needs is one more regulation!


Article 15045 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: skep615@aol.com (SKEP615)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Bees in advertising
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It may not be quite killer wit, but it is worthy of a pleasured groan or two: a
full page ad on the back of today's Metro Section of the New York Times.

With very little text about products or services offered, the gimmick is:
"Killer Bees." The ad begins: <<"Killer bees are coming! Don't risk leaving the
house." --Darryl Peck, CEO of Outpost.com, the website designed for people who
want computer products, but don't want to be stung by killer bees.>> The entire
ad keeps tongue firmly in cheek.

No endorsement of products or services implied. Just wanted to share a chuckle.
Bee happy.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Paul Kent Oakley
The Sabine Farm
Ava, Illinois (85 miles SE of St.Louis)

send any e-mail to me at:   YELKAO615  at  AOL dot COM

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Article 15046 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: andy.nachbaur@calwest.net (Andy Nachbaur)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: USDA Announces "kill a beekeeper" Honey Prices
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 17:11:50 GMT
Organization: Wild Bee's Information Service
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Check out the BeeNews page for up to date information on the USDA's
NEW Honey Loan Program.

http://beenet.com/bnews.htm

You will also find the latest HONEY MARKET NEWS and Bee Reports and
its FREE.

How about 42 1/2 cents for your honey? Well at least one producer was
satisfied with that price of course it was dark Mint honey that would
gag a maggot and more then likely plug up a bee so tight no amount of
MO would relieve it.

Please keep in mind that the Market Reports are only history of the
market in October and todays cash market may be different.

ttul, the OLd Drone
http://beenet.com  

(c)Permission is given to copy this document 
in any form, or to print for any use.

(w)OPINIONS are not necessarily facts. USE  AT OWN RISK!


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From: Charles Heatherly <cheatherly@mms.net>
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Bluedorn wrote:
> 
> I just bought same old hives from a beekeeper near me. I want to
> clean them up for next year and I was wondering if anyone could give me
> a little advice on three questions:
> 
>     1) How should I sterilize these old hives? I have scrubbed them and
> soaked them in bleach and I am going to scrape them and repaint them. Is
> this enough?
> 
>     2) Will it hurt my bees next spring if I paint the insides of the
> brood supers? I will use oil-based paint and let the paint dry for at
> least a month before I put the bees in them.
> 
>     3) What color should I paint the outside of my hives? I have two
> concerns; a) keeping them cool in the hot summer sun, b) camouflaging
> them in case some hooligans see them and vandalize them. I was thinking
> grass green would be a good color, but then they might got too hot in
> summer.
> 
>     I would appreciate any points you might have for me.
>     Nathaniel in northwest Illinois


Your best, and only sure fire method of thoroughly sterilizing old
hives  is to take them to your State Agriculture Department which should
have an effective gas chamber for killing everything inlcuding foulbrood
spores.  We have a good operation in North CArolina.  Call your state
apiarist.
Charles Heatherly
Raleigh, NC


Article 15048 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Kent Stienburg <beeman@kingston.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Carniolan Bees?
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 21:27:28 -0800
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honeybs wrote:
> 
> Bluedorn <trivium@muscanet.com> wrote:
> 
> >Next spring I am expanding my one hobby hive to five hives.
> >    What variety of bees should I order in the spring?
> 
> If you wait until spring you will be too late.  You should
> order your packages no later than the first of February.
> 
> >Who would be a reputable supplier from whom I can order carniolans?
> 
> Busby's Apiaries.  504 735-5330
> His carniolans are really gentle bees.  You can  work them
> stark naked with only a smoker.
> 
> Greg the beekeep
> 
>        //          Bee Just & Just Bee!
>   =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA
>        \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs
> 
> 
Hey thanks for the warning. If I stood stark naked in front of the hive
I wouldn't even need a smoker. The hive would simply abscond :-)
-- 
Kent Stienburg
Remove NOSPAM to reply.


Article 15049 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: fbates@ihug.co.nz (bates)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Pierco frame prep.
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 06:48:01 GMT
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I am at present trying out some Pierco plastic frames, & have been
trying to coat them with wax; which seems to be the best way to get
the bees to start drawing them. I have been melting the wax and
brushing it on the frames, but have found it impossible to achieve
anything like an even thin layer of wax. I end up with a thick dob of
wax where the brush first touches the frame, and a very thin smear
elsewhere. The bees do draw the comb whereever there is wax, but seem
reluctant to draw the areas that don't get a coating. Anyone have a
good method of doing this?
(I have also tried the method suggested by Pierco of spraying the
frames with sugar syrup instead of waxing them, but I think the bees
are much more willing to start drawing comb consistantly if there is a
coating of wax).
The frames that the bees have drawn completely are great, I seem to
get consistantly better combs drawn on Pierco than conventional
wood/wax/wire frames; and they should be much better when it comes to
extracting the thixotropic Manuka honey the bees are gathering.

fbates@ihug.co.nz


Article 15050 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Harry Goudie" <luichart.woollens@virgin.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Varroa prevention
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 12:57:30 -0000
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I apologise if this topic has been discussed by the group before but it
seems to me that if you could prevent the varroa mite from entering the hive
in the first place then the problem would be solved.  How would you achieve
this?  Perhaps by modifying the entrance to the hive by making the returning
bees walk across a bath of acid (perhaps formic) the mites being knocked off
the bees and fall into the acid :-)  You would have to make the entrance
passage sufficiently long to allow time for the fumes to work.  Varroa don't
like heat.  Perhaps you could make the bees go through a hot chamber.
Perhaps you could electrocute them!  All you have to do  is dislodge the
mite from the bee and your problems are solved.  Any comments?




Article 15051 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "C.R. Crowell" <Curtiscrow@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Painting Old Hives
Date: 19 Nov 1998 02:27:14 GMT
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I hear that NJ used to have a gas chamber, but the employee using it
complained of health problems and the state got nervous and sold it,
possibly to North Carolina!

...How about a carbon monoxide chamber fed from vehicle exhaust?
It would be like the mobile gas chambers used by the SS...
We'd need to know just how perishable the AFB spores are /C.Crowell






Article 15052 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: beecrofter@aol.com (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Painting Old Hives
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Where do you get lye in boxes? and what are they made of?
Around here it comes in 12 oz plastic cans for about 2$


Article 15053 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Wood Preservatives
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 13:27:32 -0800
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Yes, I used that on about 10 hive bodies with no problem. I didn't try it 
on the frames since they are not supposed to get wet anyway, and I made 
sure the product was completely dry before the bees were introduced, of 
course. Heat reflection can be another consideration, but these hives 
were in the shade of my bamboo grove here in so cal.



In article <19981119062027.28174.00000002@ng18.aol.com>, 
barrycode@aol.com says...
> I am considering using Thompsons' water seal on my wooden ware. It seems like
> it would be fast and easy but I don't know if there are risks involved. Has
> anyone used this product on their hives?
> 
> Any info would be appreciated.
> 
> Barry
> 


Article 15054 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Painting Old Hives
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In a message dated 11/19/98 8:13:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
beecrofter@aol.com writes:

<< Where do you get lye in boxes? and what are they made of?
 Around here it comes in 12 oz plastic cans for about 2$
  >>
 Howdy, ok here's a little history for ya,
lye for many years refered to as " box lye" was orignally rendered from the sap
of aged pine stumps, we still call em "fat lighter knots" . when folks finally
started to be able to get it in stores it was refered to as box lye because it
came in a box.
 The little cans you see are the same as box lye, and it takes 1 of those for
each 10 gallons of water.
so if you use a 55 gal drum, filled half way its gonna take about 2.75 boxes or
little plastic cans which ever ya wanta call it.

BTW Just where in the heck are you from anyway ?

Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15055 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: jcaldeira@earthlink.net (John Caldeira)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Queen Rearing
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 01:04:10 GMT
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Al Welk <ajwelk@ibm.net> wrote:
>Has anyone tried the queen rearing system from Apian
>Technology as advertised in the Nov. ABJ pg 774.  I'm
>just going to do it for my own use an wondered if it
>works, and is worth the $180.
>Al Welk Atlanta, GA usa

Apian's queen rearing kit seems very similar to the Jenter queen
rearing kit from Germany.  I haven't used Apian's kit, but the Jenter
kit is a good way to raise queens without learning to graft larva.

The cell plug queen rearing method is described on my website:
http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/

Here in the U.S., The Apian kit sells for more than twice the cost of
the Jenter kit, but perhaps it has some advantage.  The Jenter kit is
available from Brushy Mountain Bee Farm (800-233-7929). 

Cheers,
John

John Caldeira
Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/



Article 15056 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Marc Andelman" <drgonfly@ultranet.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: What's the best queen
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:19:45 -0800
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Hi folks.  I am sick and tired of being stung by
my nasty Yugo bees.  What  do people reccomend?
Is there a bee that is also as mite resistant, but nicer.
How about mite resistance, nicer, and works hard.

Regards,
Marc Andelman




Article 15057 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@golux.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Read all the Archives PAINLESSLY
Date: 14 Nov 1998 07:28:35 -0000
Organization: Self-Organized.      Dig that.
Lines: 20
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In article <72imsf$86b$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com>,  <allend@internode.net> wrote:
>I lied to you friends.
>
>Not on purpose, mind you.
>
>Sunsite -- where Adam maintains the BEE-L and sci.ag.bee archives has a search
>on the main page: http://sunsite.unc.edu/
>

Hi. That search engine works well but someday I'd like to incorporate a
seamless search right into the archive homepage. 

This is on my "to do" list.

Adam

-- 
Adam Finkelstein                   
adamf@vt.edu              
http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/adamf


Article 15058 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: CLLB80A@prodigy.com (Judith Theis)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Essential Oils???
Date: 20 Nov 1998 19:28:13 GMT
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why aren't essential oils being approved as treatments in the US?
-
 Zach Theis  CLLB80A@prodigy.com




Article 15059 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: honeybs@radix.net (honeybs)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Essential Oils???
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CLLB80A@prodigy.com (Judith Theis) wrote:

>why aren't essential oils being approved as treatments in the US?
>-
> Zach Theis  CLLB80A@prodigy.com

Because you can go to Wall Mart and buy them at a reasonable
price:  Thymol $15.00/4 ozs. and Eucaliptus oil $16.00/pint.

Most of the cost of these products is in the FDA licencing
and liablity insurance.  Being able to buy them over the
counter, there is no profit incentive for the manufacturer.

Greg - the "yes they do work" beekeep.


.




       //          Bee Just & Just Bee!        
  =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA    
       \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs

              



Article 15060 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: beecrofter@aol.com (BeeCrofter)
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Subject: Re: What's the best queen
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Go back a few months and ol Marc wanted nasty queens- watchdog bees or
whatever.

The best queen is a young well mated queen
Reputable breeders breed the meanness out- they like working in shirtsleeves
too.
Supercedeures is another ballgame entirely.


Article 15061 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: dugan1@usit.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: How come my bees aren't dead?
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 01:08:41 GMT
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  Don't get me wrong -- I'm delighted I still have bees, but I thought for
sure they'd be gone by now.  In late August I noticed there was almost no
brood in the hive and actually heard a supersedure queen piping.  I left the
hive alone to let the supersedure proceed.  After 3 weeks there was brood and
no eggs and as far as I could tell, no queen.  So I ordered a new queen,
installed her, and waited another 3 weeks.  Again, no brood, no eggs, no
queen, and several drone cells, indicating a laying worker.  By this time the
hive population was dwindling and I thought any  brood produced by a new
queen (even if she overcame the laying worker problem) would not have nurse
bees surviving long enough to feed them.  Local beekeepers concurred that I
had next to no chance for the hive to survive (I only have one hive -- next
year I'll have at least two for this very reason).  So, I thought, why not at
least let the doomed bees work for next year's bees?  I took the honey and
stored it in the freezer, and installed undrawn plastic foundation and
started feeding 2:1 syrup.  Sure enough, they've drawn out the foundation and
even have some more capped "honey" that I can use next spring.	But two days
ago I opened the hive and there are still maybe 2,000 or so bees still alive.
 I thought bees had a lifespan of only about 60 days.  There was nectar to
harvest through about mid-October, so it surprises me to think all the bees
born in late August didn't go through the entire cycle into foraging bees and
end up dying by late October.  Is it possible that this many bees were
"reserved" as overwintering bees as early as August?  Also, the remaining
bees have developed another (or the same) laying worker(s) and are messing up
some of the comb I had hoped to use for next spring.  I'll find it difficult,
but should I turn these bees out to the cold and save what comb I have, or is
there something better I can do with these bees?  I know these concerns must
sound stupid to a 300+ hive beekeeper, but this has been my first year with
bees, so perhaps you can forgive my sentimentality.

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


Article 15062 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: harrisonrw@aol.com (HarrisonRW)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Pierco frame prep.
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Greetings From The U.S.

I have changed my frames over to Pierco also. I find that if you do spray the
sugar water on them and put them on during a nectar flow you will not have any
problem with the bees drawing them out.

Best Regards,
Ralph Harrison
Western CT Beekeepers Association
Milford, Connecticut


Article 15063 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: How come my bees aren't dead?
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>ndicating a laying worker.  By 

>had next to no chance for the hive to survive (I only have one hive -- next
>year I'll have at least two for this very reason).  So, I thought, why

>foundation and
>even have some more capped "honey" that I can use next spring.	But two
days
>ago I opened the hive and there are still maybe 2,000 or so bees still alive.

the idea of freezing the whole lot bears quite a lot of merit
1. 2000 bees ain't gonna make it through winter.
2. 2000 bees ain't gonna fend off any wax moth attack.
3. 2000 bees ain't a whole lot to work with even if a very mild infestation of
trachea mites occur.

HOWEVER.......
all that honey and drawn out foundation would make a hell of a start up hive
for a 3 lb pkg of bees next spring.

Question... 
1. do you have room to store it all frozen till
 then.
2. what about the capped brood, even if it is drone, will it hatch before wax
moths hit, before you can store the frames ( of course if you froze the lot and
kept it that way the bees would clean it up next spring  YUCK !!)
3. freezing is your only option of course since 
PDB would ruin the stored food.

them's my 2 cents
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15064 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: AL <lithar@midwest.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What's the best queen
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 21:16:34 -0600
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BeeCrofter wrote:
> 
> Go back a few months and ol Marc wanted nasty queens- watchdog bees or
> whatever.
> 



Not only that, but ol Marc was sweating over the pots & pans he'd ruined
with wax and pleading "hep me hep me 'fore the wife finds out". Don't
forget, Marc, Christmas is just around the corner  :)

AL


Article 15065 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: kj@jaf.nildram.NOSPAMco.uk (Kidney John)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Beekeepr's 'Sundial'
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 04:16:07 GMT
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Might be some use to UK beekeepers, photographers, etc.
Predict sunrise, sunset, sun's position, etc.
(bearing in mind, it's only a guide, and not strictly accurate.
http://www.jaf.nildram.co.uk/sundial.htm
-- 
KJ@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk




Article 15066 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: cl.ivert@wanadoo.fr (Claude Ivert)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: visit the Nouvelle ZИlande
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 10:40:48 GMT
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I am a beekeeping  in France.  I will visit  the Nouvelle ZИlande  to
the month of January.  I would like to meet apiclteurs during my trip.
Me contact has this address:   cl.ivert@wanadoo.fr
A+
claude ivert  Aix en Provence  FRANCE
         page apicole
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/cl.ivert


Article 15067 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Michael Oberle" <NTS1@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Essential Oils???
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 14:18:19 -0600
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>why aren't essential oils being approved as treatments in the US?


Because they dont work!?

--
Thanks
Michael Oberle
NTS1@ix.netcom.com

Minnesota   The state where absolutely nothing is allowed.





Article 15068 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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I live in Ky and do not have the tempsituation that you have. But I am very
concerned about moisture build up in the hive if it can't breath well. I always
put up a wind barrier on the side of the hive that the winter wind predominatly
blows. also the reduced entranced  helps eliminate mice from entering the hive.


Article 15069 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: vickix2@aol.com (Vickix2)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: beekeeping in Illinois
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We live in Chicago area and have interest in beekeeping.  Are there any
organizations or individuals in this area to point us in the right direction to
get started in this area (reference books, too).

Thanks in advance

Dave


Article 15070 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15070

vickix2@aol.com (Vickix2) wrote:
>
>We live in Chicago area and have interest in beekeeping.  Are there any
>organizations or individuals in this area to point us in the right direction
>to
>get started in this area (reference books, too).

According to the website <http://www.airoot.com/beeculture/who.html> where you
can find listings for contact persons for regional and national beekeeping
organizations and government beekeeping contacts, inspectors, etc., in Canada
and the USA (including Puerto Rico), here is the name and address of the
contact person for your  regional beekeeping organization:

Pat Patterson
Regional: COOK-DUPAGE BEEKEEPERS 
1350 Oak St.
North Aurora , IL, 60542 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Paul Kent Oakley
The Sabine Farm
Ava, Illinois (85 miles SE of St.Louis)

send any e-mail to me at:   YELKAO615  at  AOL dot COM

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Article 15071 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Ulli Hoeger" <uhogerdelete@tupphysiol1.bp.dal.ca>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How come my bees aren't dead?
Date: 22 Nov 1998 19:52:36 GMT
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The fact that the bees took the sirup and draw out the foundations is a
indicator that there is a queen in the hive.  Also it's easy to
underestimate the number of bees.  I would try to hibernate the hive in a
single room.  What's to loose?



Article 15072 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Marc Andelman" <drgonfly@ultranet.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What's the best queen
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 04:59:07 -0800
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AL wrote in message <36563092.1A94@midwest.net>...
>BeeCrofter wrote:
>>
>> Go back a few months and ol Marc wanted nasty queens- watchdog bees or
>> whatever.
>>
>
>
>
>Not only that, but ol Marc was sweating over the pots & pans he'd ruined
>with wax and pleading "hep me hep me 'fore the wife finds out". Don't
>forget, Marc, Christmas is just around the corner  :)
>
>AL

People in that thread scared the pants on me about the legal
situation should  nasty bees attack someone.    Therefore,
I am getting a nice queen and will be digging pits with punji
sticks instead, as well as stocking our lake with the dread
Candiru fish, which is far more feared than piranhah.

Regards.
Marc Andelman








Article 15073 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: snewport@pavilion.co.uk (Steve Newport)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Propolis salves/tinctures wanted for import
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 20:23:16 GMT
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Does anyone in this group wish to export the above to UK market ?
Please reply off list to snewport@pavilion.co.uk


Article 15074 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "logcabin" <logcabin@qaiusqa.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <364db483.0@news.aiusa.com> <364DEA13.48F4@earthlink.net> <36542EEC.CBFA070F@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: observation hive question
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 17:41:52 -0500
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Do you keep them in a heated area of your home and feed them sugar water and
pollen substitute all winter or do you let them stay dormant in a cool area?
Have you successfully overwintered in such a way?
thanks,
steve
logcabin@qaiusqa.com
(remove the q's to respond personally-NO SPAM)




Article 15075 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Westcan" <kevinmc@telusplanet.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Financing
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 21:47:15 -0700
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We at Westcan Business Development Corp. can assist you in any of the
following areas;

╥ Debt Financing
╥ Equity Financing
╥ Venture Capital
╥ Import/Export Financing
╥ Business Plans & Loan Proposals
╥ Mortgages - Personal, Commercial, Industrial & Agricultural

If you should require any of the above services or have any questions about
the above please contact us at kevinmc@telusplanet.net
Bus: (403) 485-1904  Fax: (403) 485-2900





Article 15076 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: recombinant bees,
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Be a good thin  add them lightning bug genes so we can work em at night


Article 15077 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: steven.turner@zbee.com (Steven Turner)
To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Beekeeping mailing lists
Message-ID: <911585547@zbee.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 18:12:27 GMT
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15077

                     -------- Forwarded Message ---------
Original: DATE..... 20 Nov 1998,  05:52p
Original: FROM..... STEVEN TURNER
Original: TO....... ALL
Original: SUBJECT.. Beekeeping mailing lists
Original: FORUM.... Kent Beekeepers Association
Original: NETWORK.. BEENET.COM  ECHO: KENTBEE

Beekeeping Internet Mailing Lists on ZbeeNet BBS




The Kent Beekeeping Association List
For members of the association and distribution of 'KentishBee' News letters

How to Join:
Send a message to  mailserver@zbee.com
Subject: <leave blank>
Message body: Subscribe kentbee-L


The Bromley Beekeeping Association List
For members of the Bromley Beekeeping association and distribution of  'Bromley
Bee News Monthly Update' newsletter.

How to Join:
Send a message to mailserver@zbee.com
Subject: <leave blank>
Message body: Subscribe bbk


Apinet List
Beekeeping education extension network

How to Join:
Send a message to: mailserver@zbee.com
Subject: <leave blank>
Message body: Subscribe apinetL


Bee Farmers Association List
Private closed list to members of the BFA
To join you must be a member of the BFA
Contact David Bulpitt  Email: djbulpitt@lineone.net


Internet mailing list services can be available to other beekeeping
organisations and associations. Contact Steven Turner Tel: 0181-698-0313
Email: crow@zbee.com

-!-
 # Origin: Bromley Beekeeping in the 21st Century (240:244/118)
                     ----- End of Forwarded Message -----

STEVEN TURNER 
G6LPF Beekeeper/gardener Sysop of ZBeeNet BBS. 
http://www.beeman.dircon.co.uk/ 
Email: beeman@zbee.com

... Platinum Xpress & Wildcat!..... Nice!!!!


Article 15078 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: steven.turner@zbee.com (Steven Turner)
To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Beekeeping mailing lists
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Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 18:13:32 GMT
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15078

                     -------- Forwarded Message ---------
Original: DATE..... 20 Nov 1998,  05:52p
Original: FROM..... STEVEN TURNER
Original: TO....... ALL
Original: SUBJECT.. Beekeeping mailing lists
Original: FORUM.... Kent Beekeepers Association
Original: NETWORK.. BEENET.COM  ECHO: KENTBEE

Beekeeping Internet Mailing Lists on ZbeeNet BBS




The Kent Beekeeping Association List
For members of the association and distribution of 'KentishBee' News letters

How to Join:
Send a message to  mailserver@zbee.com
Subject: <leave blank>
Message body: Subscribe kentbee-L


The Bromley Beekeeping Association List
For members of the Bromley Beekeeping association and distribution of  'Bromley
Bee News Monthly Update' newsletter.

How to Join:
Send a message to mailserver@zbee.com
Subject: <leave blank>
Message body: Subscribe bbk


Apinet List
Beekeeping education extension network

How to Join:
Send a message to: mailserver@zbee.com
Subject: <leave blank>
Message body: Subscribe apinetL


Bee Farmers Association List
Private closed list to members of the BFA
To join you must be a member of the BFA
Contact David Bulpitt  Email: djbulpitt@lineone.net


Internet mailing list services can be available to other beekeeping
organisations and associations. Contact Steven Turner Tel: 0181-698-0313
Email: crow@zbee.com

-!-
 # Origin: Bromley Beekeeping in the 21st Century (240:244/118)
                     ----- End of Forwarded Message -----

STEVEN TURNER
G6LPF Beekeeper/gardener Sysop of ZBeeNet BBS.
http://www.beeman.dircon.co.uk/
Email: beeman@zbee.com

... Platinum Xpress & Wildcat!..... Nice!!!!


Article 15079 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Kent Stienburg <beeman@kingston.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What's the best queen
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:09:28 -0800
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Marc Andelman wrote:
> 
> Hi folks.  I am sick and tired of being stung by
> my nasty Yugo bees.  What  do people reccomend?
> Is there a bee that is also as mite resistant, but nicer.
> How about mite resistance, nicer, and works hard.
> 
> Regards,
> Marc Andelman

Hi Marc,

It sounds like you got a nasty queen.  I'm assuming that there is
nothing bothering the hive to make them nasty(i.e skunk) I have
Carniolan and Buckfast and have found both of them to be very gentle. 
However, be aware that if the original queen is superceded the next
queen can generate some nasty offspring.  This appeares to be due to the
fact that our bees today are hybrids of some sort, and by allowing the
queen to mate without a substantial amount of your drones to ensure the
traits you want will continue in the offspring, you will end up alot of
times with nasty bees.  I don't know if this is your original queen or
not and most queen breeders today breed for gentleness as one of the
characteristics they want. I'm from Ontario Canada and I could suggest
breeders here, but if you are writting from the States then hopfully you
will get some good feed back on where other beekeepers buy their queens
from. 
-- 
Kent Stienburg
Remove NOSPAM to reply.


Article 15080 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: the Barcelona (Spain)
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In article <731a2s$sjd$1@pedraforca.cesca.es>, "Joan Casals i Anna Ginebra"
<aginebra@pie.xtec.es> writes:

>Hello to the group: I am called Juan beekeeper of Barcelona (Spain). Would
>wish to know as i can multiply the beehives, since i am very inexperienced
>in this of the beekeeping. Work with Dadan beehives

Bienvenido Juan. Espero que podemos ayudarle a usted mucho. Parece que su
ingles es mejor que mi espanol, entonces mejor usar ingles ahora.

    (Mi amigo, Miquel, me dijo: 
     Ingles es la idioma de comercio.
     Frances es la idioma de amor.
     !Pero vamos a hablar espanol en el cielo!)

    An easy way to make increase:

   Have your equipment ready early in the spring. 

   Before the spring flow, start feeding thin syrup to the bees to stimulate
the queen. If you have it ready, add a second brood chamber to give her more
room to lay eggs. Give them lots of feed, especially if they have to draw
foundation in the added box. If you don't have good pollen sources early (we
have lots of wild mustard), then give them pollen supplement as well.

   When you start to see the first swarm cells start splitting. Split the
strongest hives first. Pick up the hive and place it behind the original
location, with the entrance facing the opposite direction. If the added box is
full of brood, simply remove it and set it back on a bottom board on the
original site. If they have queen cells they will have a queen very quickly.
You often can see the queen cells because they tend to be on the bottom of the
frames of the top box. If you did not add a second box, then pull out three
frames of brood and a frame of honey/syrup, and place them in the new box on
the old location. The old location will collect the field force, so the hive on
this spot does not need to be as strong.

    You do not have to find the queen to do this kind of split. Just make sure
you have lots of good healthy brood, without a lot of missing cells in the
brood area. Generally at mid day, if you don't use too much smoke to drive her
down, she will be in the top box. But you need to make sure both sides have
either queen cells or eggs. If they have cells they will come on very rapidly,
if they don't they will raise a queen from eggs, so will take longer.

   With the weaker hives, check to make sure they don't have disease or mites.
Don't split them and let them raise their own queen; they may just be junk
bees. Use cells that you cut from a good hive. Look closely at the queen cells.
When you see one that has the tip chewed a bit, you have a "ripe" cell, which
should be hatching very soon. These cells can be handled without damage, if you
carefully cut away the cell from the base. Handle by the base, so you don't
squeeze the young queen and crush her. Cells that are not ripe can be handled,
as well but there is more potential to damage the queen. At some stages of
development you can't even turn them upside down, or the queen's wings will not
develop properly and she cannot make her mating flight.

   Even in the spring, make sure your new hives have less than a full frame of
capped honey/syrup. Frames of uncapped nectar or syrup do not count as feed;
bees can use this up in one rainy day, and starve the next.

   Check brood frames in a couple weeks for eggs. If there are none in any of
your splits, add a frame with eggs from one of the stronger ones that already
had a mated queen. Gently shake most of the bees back into their box, because
you don't want to accidently transfer the queen and get her killed. They may
have a virgin queen and need a boost, until she can get mated, or they may not
have gotten her mated and need a second chance to raise a queen.

   Mark these hives and check them again. If they still do not get a mated
queen, combine them back. We have trouble getting queens mated in some areas,
because dragonflies snatch them on their mating flights. In some areas birds
will also do this, so you need to be careful where your mating yards are.

   Be sure you have plenty of drones in the mating area.The young queens need
to mate with 12-15 drones for a long productive life. If you have old comb with
patches of drone comb, you'll have plenty. Some hobby beekeepers routinely
replace comb that has drone cells, which is crazy. Bees need to be able to
raise drones, and 10-15% drone cells in a hive is a good thing. I just don't
let them have a lot of drone cells in the center of the brood nest. When they
expand in the spring and need drones, they can take care of them at the outer
edges of the nest.
   
   That's the outline of a very simple plan, which requires the least
equipment, time, bee yards, etc. of any method I know.  Questions?


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


Article 15081 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "W&G" <pa2082@panservice.it>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Bouganvillee -Hydrangea ecc..
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 19:26:29 +0100
Organization: Customer of Flashnet S.p.A. - http://www.flashnet.it
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Vendo:

Bouganvillea  glabra sanderiana
Hydrangea Macrophylla
Trachelospermum Jasminoides
Chamaerops spp.
Cycas Revoluta
Phoenix spp.


e-mail : pa2082@panservice.it




Article 15082 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: martindon@Juno.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How come my bees aren't dead?
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:50:06 GMT
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The problem is laying workers. You have two choices.
1 shake the bees and freeze the equipment or

2 This would be a fun way to still be a bee keeper and learn something along
the way. Take the bees about 100 feet from the hive shake all the bees off
take two drawn out frames, and the hive back to the original hive location.
Freeze the rest of the combs. The bees that come back wont be laying workers.
Order a queen. Many Florida queen sellers still have queens cheep this time
of the year ($6.00 or so)Install the Queen And feed them Sugar water and
pollin sub. through the winter. This would only work if weather was in the
mid 50s or better so the queen would survive the trip. I have done this
before it was fun not practical.

Best Luck
Don













In article <7353qe$m1n$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com>,
  dugan1@usit.net wrote:
>   Don't get me wrong -- I'm delighted I still have bees, but I thought for
> sure they'd be gone by now.  In late August I noticed there was almost no
> brood in the hive and actually heard a supersedure queen piping.  I left the
> hive alone to let the supersedure proceed.  After 3 weeks there was brood and
> no eggs and as far as I could tell, no queen.  So I ordered a new queen,
> installed her, and waited another 3 weeks.  Again, no brood, no eggs, no
> queen, and several drone cells, indicating a laying worker.  By this time the
> hive population was dwindling and I thought any  brood produced by a new
> queen (even if she overcame the laying worker problem) would not have nurse
> bees surviving long enough to feed them.  Local beekeepers concurred that I
> had next to no chance for the hive to survive (I only have one hive -- next
> year I'll have at least two for this very reason).  So, I thought, why not at
> least let the doomed bees work for next year's bees?  I took the honey and
> stored it in the freezer, and installed undrawn plastic foundation and
> started feeding 2:1 syrup.  Sure enough, they've drawn out the foundation and
> even have some more capped "honey" that I can use next spring.	But two
days
> ago I opened the hive and there are still maybe 2,000 or so bees still alive.
>  I thought bees had a lifespan of only about 60 days.  There was nectar to
> harvest through about mid-October, so it surprises me to think all the bees
> born in late August didn't go through the entire cycle into foraging bees and
> end up dying by late October.  Is it possible that this many bees were
> "reserved" as overwintering bees as early as August?  Also, the remaining
> bees have developed another (or the same) laying worker(s) and are messing up
> some of the comb I had hoped to use for next spring.  I'll find it difficult,
> but should I turn these bees out to the cold and save what comb I have, or is
> there something better I can do with these bees?  I know these concerns must
> sound stupid to a 300+ hive beekeeper, but this has been my first year with
> bees, so perhaps you can forgive my sentiment
>

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


Article 15083 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Jim Wright" <jwright@niagara.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: to wrap or not to wrap?
Date: 24 Nov 1998 02:49:03 GMT
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For years we have been placing a very small "shim" (usually we use a wood
shaving) to create a little space between the super and the hive top.  This
creates a little space for any moisture buildup from colony respiration to
escape from (Our hives are "wintered" in pressed,  waxed,  black corrigated
cardboard wintering cases,  along with entrance resuducers.  We loose very
few colonies from the effects of excess moisture during the winter.  

DavPress <davpress@aol.com> wrote in article
<19981121134615.21382.00000776@ng151.aol.com>...
> I live in Ky and do not have the tempsituation that you have. But I am
very
> concerned about moisture build up in the hive if it can't breath well. I
always
> put up a wind barrier on the side of the hive that the winter wind
predominatly
> blows. also the reduced entranced  helps eliminate mice from entering the
hive.
> 


Article 15084 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Prospero <na@na.com.au>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: FS: Sydney - Bee Hives
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 14:43:52 +1100
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For sale: Two hives full of honey at AUD $100 each.  Location:  Sydney
Australia.  Please reply to: samovar@tig.com.au for further details.


Article 15085 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Painting Old Hives
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>ETO chambers have been disapproved as options to treat beekeeping equipment.
>S

North carolina has requested and been approved by the EPA and OSHA. We have 2
units, the super one ( a NASA leftover from the 60's ) and a mobile unit.

There are only a few States with these chambers. So good luck.

Scorch em or boil em in lye water if ya can't find a chamber

Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15086 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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>How about a carbon monoxide chamber fed from vehicle exhaust?
>It would be like the mobile gas chambe

them spores would laugh at it
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15087 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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I am considering using Thompsons' water seal on my wooden ware. It seems like
it would be fast and easy but I don't know if there are risks involved. Has
anyone used this product on their hives?

Any info would be appreciated.

Barry


Article 15088 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Message-ID: <1PtOy9A5MSkMBx.devwokmdha.mjdb@pkrltotq.org>
From: vsbfs@xojwyqrkkb.edu
Subject: Merillin among the kin in Robert Jordan novels
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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A good number of people have taken the deaths of Adeleas and Ispan to
indicate that Vandene is a member of the Black Ajah and their murderer.
I find this highly uncharacteristic, and offer up rebuttals for the
most common arguments to her guilt.
Why were the inseparable sisters from Paris suddenly separated?
Remember that this is a procession towards Camelyn, and travelling
across Andor takes up most of the day.  Aes Sedai have to sleep as
well, and since the two obviously didn't trust anyone else with Ispan,
no matter how meek she had become, it makes sense that the pair would
alternate interrogation duties.  Hence Vandene's absence when Adeleas 
complains about runaways amongst the Kin.How could Vandene remain so calm?
Jordan has quite a few characters retain public composure only to
grieve in private.  Siuan waited months to mourn the death of her
warder, and Elayne never publicly grieved for the death of her mother.
Aes Sedai are famed for such composure, and it is certainly in
character for Vandene, who has taken a Draghkar's Paris attack, Elayne's
usurping the Ebou Dari delegation, the Kin, a gholam and the Seanchan
all in stride to react similarly when faced with her sister's death.
But this explains who warded the Draghkar so simply.
Of course, before The Path of Daggers we already had a simple answer:
Liandrin, a known Black Ajah who mysteriously disappeared soon after
Moiraine.  Marillin Gemalphin's much more likely to have been behind the attack 
than Vandene, who had left Moiraine in the study moments earlier, with no
idea she was about to go outside.Who else could have killed them?
Merillin Paris amongst the Kin, many of who have significant experience
with various herbs.  Semirhage, who was behind the Trolloc attack that
proved to be a divergence for similar murders of captured Black Ajah in
Tear.  Any of a number of villains in the area, such as Mili Skaine or
Merillin Gemalphin, who could have enlisted local Darkfriends to deliverthe tea.
The theory that Vandene is Black Ajah raises other troubling questions
as well.  Since the attack was directed at Ispan, why would Vandene kill
her sister in such an equally violent manner?  How could two people so
close they could finish one another's sentences end up on opposite sides
of an ideological spectrum? Does the Black Ajah allow its members to
retire peacefully to the countryside?
In light of all of this, I cannot see how Vandene can be considered aDarkfriend.



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vhsi hegi fvy
nyp fqp px
taw ubil vd
saq keue iimo
fobs nqw dt
qnrt fhrg urm
eui sues voh
cnba ymqv iib






Article 15089 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Crispin Foster" <crispin@paonline.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <732n2m$5q4$1@strato.ultra.net>
Subject: Re: What's the best queen
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 15:59:52 -0500
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You wrote
>Hi folks.  I am sick and tired of being stung by
>my nasty Yugo bees.  What  do people reccomend?
>Is there a bee that is also as mite resistant, but nicer.
>How about mite resistance, nicer, and works hard.
>
>Regards,
>Marc Andelman
>
I really like my 8 colonies of Buckfasts. They're gentle, very productive
and more resistant to tracheal mites than most others. There are only two
breeders in the US, both from Texas and both going by the name of Weaver.
Give them a try next spring.




Article 15090 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: CBSG31A@prodigy.com (Valerie Southard)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Problem with German yellowjackets in apt!
Date: 24 Nov 1998 12:06:28 GMT
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   Hi,
   
   I have been fighting German yellowjacket bees in my apartment
   for about a month now and looking for ideas from experts on
   how to get rid of them! They are according to the bee guy who
   has been here twice - German yellowjacket bees and 90 % are
   queens. They built a nest in my ceiling in one of the bedrooms,
   but they have been throughout the entire place! 

   A spray called something like Seven dust was put up in a heat
   duct - register that was close to the nest. That was almost 3 weeks
   ago. Still more bees so the guy came back and taped the rest of my
   ceiling registers and sprayed them with Black Flag Flying Insect
   Killer. Still a bee problem and I'm looking for advice!

   If you can help - Pleeeeeease write to me! Thanks!

   Valerie  




Article 15091 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Problem with German yellowjackets in apt!
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From: CBSG31A@prodigy.com (Valerie Southard)

<<A spray called something like Seven dust was put up in a heat
   duct - register that was close to the nest. That was almost 3 weeks
   ago. Still more bees so the guy came back and taped the rest of my
   ceiling registers and sprayed them with Black Flag Flying Insect
   Killer. Still a bee problem and I'm looking for advice!

   If you can help - Pleeeeeease write to me! Thanks!>>

First off, Valerie, yellow jackets are NOT bees, and beekeepers don't
appreciate the "guilt by association" in many people's minds.

If you are in the northern hemisphere and cold weather is near, the problem
will be ended for you.

Sevin dust is not effective, unless you get it into the nest itself, or in the
pathway where the YJ's will track it into the nest. And I sure wouldn't want
that dust filtering through the air I breathe in my home!

We have a constant supply of YJ's coming into our honey house (because it
smells sweet, I guess). We suck them off the windows and lights with a shop
vacuum. By the time they realize the danger, they are already "down the tube."

   I have made traps for them, though the supply of YJ's seems inexhaustible.
You can take a milk jug or soft drink bottle, cut a small hole in the neck, add
some soapy water to the bottom, then smear some jam or jelly just inside the
cut hole. They come and feed, and sooner or later, most of them drop into the
soapy water, which kills them almost instantly. I can kill a thousand or more
on a nice fall day with a couple such traps. Generally, if there are just a
few, I leave them alone, but when they start getting "into my face," and I
start getting stung because they are landing on me and getting pinched in my
movements, then they've gotta get thinned out!

   A bee sting lasts about five minutes, but a YJ sting lasts a week or more,
and always ends with enough itching to keep me awake at night. So I don't like
them at all.


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


Article 15092 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "samduke" <samduke@farlep.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: ПОСТОЯННО ПОКУПАЕМ ЗЕРНОВЫЕ
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 15:12:53 +0300
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ДП "Сэмдюк Украина" (г.Одесса)постоянно закупает
следующие зерновые:
-пшеница фуражная
- пшеница продовольственная(клейковина мин.25,проросшесть
недопускается)
-ячмень фуражный
-семена подсолнечника

тел/факсы 0482 234923
                               496391
samduke@farlep.net







Article 15093 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Message-ID: <36542EEC.CBFA070F@ibm.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 09:45:00 -0500
From: Al Welk <ajwelk@ibm.net>
Organization: Atlanta, GA
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That's how I have mine set up.  I made a baord that is
about 4in high and as wide as the windows inside
dimentions.  I cut a dado at a slight angle and
fastened another board as a landing deck for the bees.

workerbee wrote:
> 
> Why not make a removable frame to place in a window and put a hole in it
> for the bees to use through a tube? It would have to be only about two
> inches high and wide enough to fit in the window frame.
> 
> Don


Article 15094 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Try these palces:
 YorkBee company 912-427-7311
 Wilbanks Apiaries 912-739-4820
 Rossman Apiaries 800-333-7677

All are in Georgia, USA.  I'm sure there are some in
Texas but I haven't delt with them.  York is very good
about replaceing bees that don't make the trip or
queens that don't perform.

robert weyer wrote:
> 
> I have four acres in a rural setting \.  I would like a hive or two.
> Where can I buy bees?  Please reply.
> Bob Weyer
> Amarillo, Texas


Article 15095 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: CBSG31A@prodigy.com (Valerie Southard)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Problem with German yellowjackets in apt!
Date: 25 Nov 1998 19:15:35 GMT
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   Hi everybody!

   A big thanks to all of you who offered advice! Sorry about calling
   them bees. My bee guy just said they are really wasps. Hey! I
   had been told they were bees before and they are big and fat, so
   seemed like that was right to me! I just want them dead or out
   of here! Anyway the bee guy has filled up some holes where they
   might still have been getting in and we are using fogger deals.
   As for frost in my area - that will be awhile yet. 60-70s here lately.

   40s at night

   As for where I live -  in the westen half of the US and the German
   yellowjackets here must like ceilings too. My bee guy says he has
   seen several. 

   Thanks again!
   Valerie      When I get back to my printer - I will copy your posts -
   hopefully the foggers will do the trick! Also what is dangerous about
   Sevin - as that was used about 4 weeks ago in a register near the
   nest?     
 



Article 15096 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Midnite" <midnitebee@hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: web site/update
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 16:51:19 -0500
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15096

Greetings!
wow!!..a lot of newbees!!/and newbees questions..
If interested.,I have a web site that might answer all your questions..
here is a partial list of catagories:

Maine State Inspector's Report Inspector's Comments

George Imirie's "Pink Pages" is a new feature which may change you from a
"beehaver" to a "beekeeper".

George's latest update is "Important Items" . 11-11-98

InterMiel'98" 11-23-98

Beekeeping courses and upcoming events

American Beekeeping Symposium (8-11-98)

 Now,for additional articles about Parasitic Mites & Control;including
Chemical Mite controls go here.

...and more about Integrated Pest Management
BeeLinks

ARTIFICIAL SWARMS FORMATION

Hive Beetle

Let's Buzz the School

Making Mead

Evaluation of Menthol

Pierco Plastic Frame Introduction

HornedFaced Bee for Pollination

Mite Control w/essential oils (WVU)

Maine Home Food Manufacturing Codes

 Queen Introduction Techniques

Patient Information on Allergic Reactions/Bee Stings

 Queen rearing and Mite Resistant Queen Bees

 Diseases & Procedures for Abatement of Regulated Pests

Maine Apiary Laws

 Why Mark Queens?

Cake & Eating it Too Part 2

Lousy Queen

 Swarming and it's Control

Trends in Maine Beekeeping

 Catching a Swarm

A Year in the Apiary

Managing the Honeybee Queen

My Bee Photos

My Opinions

Wellmark Urges Proper Use of Apistan

Bee Stings

Mineral Oil and the Honeybee

Mineral Oil Part #2  ( P.S.by Dr. Rodriquez)

Honeybees and Beekeepers

AFRICANIZED AND EUROPEAN HONEY BEES

 Pollination-this is a MUST read for ALL who are interested in the Facts
about the honeybee's contribution to pollination!
Don't foget to check to BEELINKS page!!
Herb
http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee
Holly-B Apiary
P.O. Box 26
Wells,Maine 04090-0026
http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee




Article 15097 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Gil Disatnik" <info@technohac.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.fruit,sci.agriculture.poultry,sci.agriculture.ratites
Subject: Technohac, The leading agricultural manufacturer of the 70's is coming back to the agricultural world.
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 01:59:11 +0200
Organization: Technohac Corp.
Lines: 37
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Technohac, The leading agricultural manufacturer of the 70's is coming back
to the agricultural world, with computer controlled planters and state of
the art plastic mulching machines, drills, and other agricultural machinery

The new innovative T2005 is welding the nylon on the field and saving up to
50% of Methyl bromide,
The T2005 also uses CO2 and gas, which costs 86% less than normal glue.

All technohac's plastic mulching machines are also using the revolutionary
cradles for easier loading of
the nylon cylinder.

The amazing T2004 has 4 cradles which work as a cartridge and giving those
of you with the giant
fields the possibility to deploy up to 32KM of nylon non stop! (it saves
alot of time, and time as you know - is money).

You are welcomed to check our website at:

http://www.technohac.com

If you encounter any problem accessing the site, please try our mirrors at:
http://www.geocities.com/~technohac
http://204.141.47.50

Regards

Mr. Gil Disatnik,
Export Manager
Technohac Ltd.

Tel: +972-8-9252932
Fax: +972-8-9214340

exportm@technohac.com




Article 15073 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: snewport@pavilion.co.uk (Steve Newport)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Propolis salves/tinctures wanted for import
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 20:23:16 GMT
Organization: Pavilion Internet USENET Server
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Does anyone in this group wish to export the above to UK market ?
Please reply off list to snewport@pavilion.co.uk


Article 15074 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "logcabin" <logcabin@qaiusqa.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <364db483.0@news.aiusa.com> <364DEA13.48F4@earthlink.net> <36542EEC.CBFA070F@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: observation hive question
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 17:41:52 -0500
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Do you keep them in a heated area of your home and feed them sugar water and
pollen substitute all winter or do you let them stay dormant in a cool area?
Have you successfully overwintered in such a way?
thanks,
steve
logcabin@qaiusqa.com
(remove the q's to respond personally-NO SPAM)




Article 15075 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Westcan" <kevinmc@telusplanet.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Financing
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 21:47:15 -0700
Organization: TELUS Communications Inc.
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We at Westcan Business Development Corp. can assist you in any of the
following areas;

╥ Debt Financing
╥ Equity Financing
╥ Venture Capital
╥ Import/Export Financing
╥ Business Plans & Loan Proposals
╥ Mortgages - Personal, Commercial, Industrial & Agricultural

If you should require any of the above services or have any questions about
the above please contact us at kevinmc@telusplanet.net
Bus: (403) 485-1904  Fax: (403) 485-2900





Article 15076 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: beecrofter@aol.com (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: recombinant bees,
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Be a good thin  add them lightning bug genes so we can work em at night


Article 15077 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: steven.turner@zbee.com (Steven Turner)
To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Beekeeping mailing lists
Message-ID: <911585547@zbee.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 18:12:27 GMT
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15077

                     -------- Forwarded Message ---------
Original: DATE..... 20 Nov 1998,  05:52p
Original: FROM..... STEVEN TURNER
Original: TO....... ALL
Original: SUBJECT.. Beekeeping mailing lists
Original: FORUM.... Kent Beekeepers Association
Original: NETWORK.. BEENET.COM  ECHO: KENTBEE

Beekeeping Internet Mailing Lists on ZbeeNet BBS




The Kent Beekeeping Association List
For members of the association and distribution of 'KentishBee' News letters

How to Join:
Send a message to  mailserver@zbee.com
Subject: <leave blank>
Message body: Subscribe kentbee-L


The Bromley Beekeeping Association List
For members of the Bromley Beekeeping association and distribution of  'Bromley
Bee News Monthly Update' newsletter.

How to Join:
Send a message to mailserver@zbee.com
Subject: <leave blank>
Message body: Subscribe bbk


Apinet List
Beekeeping education extension network

How to Join:
Send a message to: mailserver@zbee.com
Subject: <leave blank>
Message body: Subscribe apinetL


Bee Farmers Association List
Private closed list to members of the BFA
To join you must be a member of the BFA
Contact David Bulpitt  Email: djbulpitt@lineone.net


Internet mailing list services can be available to other beekeeping
organisations and associations. Contact Steven Turner Tel: 0181-698-0313
Email: crow@zbee.com

-!-
 # Origin: Bromley Beekeeping in the 21st Century (240:244/118)
                     ----- End of Forwarded Message -----

STEVEN TURNER 
G6LPF Beekeeper/gardener Sysop of ZBeeNet BBS. 
http://www.beeman.dircon.co.uk/ 
Email: beeman@zbee.com

... Platinum Xpress & Wildcat!..... Nice!!!!


Article 15078 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: steven.turner@zbee.com (Steven Turner)
To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Beekeeping mailing lists
Message-ID: <911585612@zbee.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 18:13:32 GMT
Lines: 62
Distribution: world
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15078

                     -------- Forwarded Message ---------
Original: DATE..... 20 Nov 1998,  05:52p
Original: FROM..... STEVEN TURNER
Original: TO....... ALL
Original: SUBJECT.. Beekeeping mailing lists
Original: FORUM.... Kent Beekeepers Association
Original: NETWORK.. BEENET.COM  ECHO: KENTBEE

Beekeeping Internet Mailing Lists on ZbeeNet BBS




The Kent Beekeeping Association List
For members of the association and distribution of 'KentishBee' News letters

How to Join:
Send a message to  mailserver@zbee.com
Subject: <leave blank>
Message body: Subscribe kentbee-L


The Bromley Beekeeping Association List
For members of the Bromley Beekeeping association and distribution of  'Bromley
Bee News Monthly Update' newsletter.

How to Join:
Send a message to mailserver@zbee.com
Subject: <leave blank>
Message body: Subscribe bbk


Apinet List
Beekeeping education extension network

How to Join:
Send a message to: mailserver@zbee.com
Subject: <leave blank>
Message body: Subscribe apinetL


Bee Farmers Association List
Private closed list to members of the BFA
To join you must be a member of the BFA
Contact David Bulpitt  Email: djbulpitt@lineone.net


Internet mailing list services can be available to other beekeeping
organisations and associations. Contact Steven Turner Tel: 0181-698-0313
Email: crow@zbee.com

-!-
 # Origin: Bromley Beekeeping in the 21st Century (240:244/118)
                     ----- End of Forwarded Message -----

STEVEN TURNER
G6LPF Beekeeper/gardener Sysop of ZBeeNet BBS.
http://www.beeman.dircon.co.uk/
Email: beeman@zbee.com

... Platinum Xpress & Wildcat!..... Nice!!!!


Article 15079 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Kent Stienburg <beeman@kingston.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What's the best queen
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:09:28 -0800
Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com - Discussions start here!
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Marc Andelman wrote:
> 
> Hi folks.  I am sick and tired of being stung by
> my nasty Yugo bees.  What  do people reccomend?
> Is there a bee that is also as mite resistant, but nicer.
> How about mite resistance, nicer, and works hard.
> 
> Regards,
> Marc Andelman

Hi Marc,

It sounds like you got a nasty queen.  I'm assuming that there is
nothing bothering the hive to make them nasty(i.e skunk) I have
Carniolan and Buckfast and have found both of them to be very gentle. 
However, be aware that if the original queen is superceded the next
queen can generate some nasty offspring.  This appeares to be due to the
fact that our bees today are hybrids of some sort, and by allowing the
queen to mate without a substantial amount of your drones to ensure the
traits you want will continue in the offspring, you will end up alot of
times with nasty bees.  I don't know if this is your original queen or
not and most queen breeders today breed for gentleness as one of the
characteristics they want. I'm from Ontario Canada and I could suggest
breeders here, but if you are writting from the States then hopfully you
will get some good feed back on where other beekeepers buy their queens
from. 
-- 
Kent Stienburg
Remove NOSPAM to reply.


Article 15080 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: the Barcelona (Spain)
Lines: 89
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In article <731a2s$sjd$1@pedraforca.cesca.es>, "Joan Casals i Anna Ginebra"
<aginebra@pie.xtec.es> writes:

>Hello to the group: I am called Juan beekeeper of Barcelona (Spain). Would
>wish to know as i can multiply the beehives, since i am very inexperienced
>in this of the beekeeping. Work with Dadan beehives

Bienvenido Juan. Espero que podemos ayudarle a usted mucho. Parece que su
ingles es mejor que mi espanol, entonces mejor usar ingles ahora.

    (Mi amigo, Miquel, me dijo: 
     Ingles es la idioma de comercio.
     Frances es la idioma de amor.
     !Pero vamos a hablar espanol en el cielo!)

    An easy way to make increase:

   Have your equipment ready early in the spring. 

   Before the spring flow, start feeding thin syrup to the bees to stimulate
the queen. If you have it ready, add a second brood chamber to give her more
room to lay eggs. Give them lots of feed, especially if they have to draw
foundation in the added box. If you don't have good pollen sources early (we
have lots of wild mustard), then give them pollen supplement as well.

   When you start to see the first swarm cells start splitting. Split the
strongest hives first. Pick up the hive and place it behind the original
location, with the entrance facing the opposite direction. If the added box is
full of brood, simply remove it and set it back on a bottom board on the
original site. If they have queen cells they will have a queen very quickly.
You often can see the queen cells because they tend to be on the bottom of the
frames of the top box. If you did not add a second box, then pull out three
frames of brood and a frame of honey/syrup, and place them in the new box on
the old location. The old location will collect the field force, so the hive on
this spot does not need to be as strong.

    You do not have to find the queen to do this kind of split. Just make sure
you have lots of good healthy brood, without a lot of missing cells in the
brood area. Generally at mid day, if you don't use too much smoke to drive her
down, she will be in the top box. But you need to make sure both sides have
either queen cells or eggs. If they have cells they will come on very rapidly,
if they don't they will raise a queen from eggs, so will take longer.

   With the weaker hives, check to make sure they don't have disease or mites.
Don't split them and let them raise their own queen; they may just be junk
bees. Use cells that you cut from a good hive. Look closely at the queen cells.
When you see one that has the tip chewed a bit, you have a "ripe" cell, which
should be hatching very soon. These cells can be handled without damage, if you
carefully cut away the cell from the base. Handle by the base, so you don't
squeeze the young queen and crush her. Cells that are not ripe can be handled,
as well but there is more potential to damage the queen. At some stages of
development you can't even turn them upside down, or the queen's wings will not
develop properly and she cannot make her mating flight.

   Even in the spring, make sure your new hives have less than a full frame of
capped honey/syrup. Frames of uncapped nectar or syrup do not count as feed;
bees can use this up in one rainy day, and starve the next.

   Check brood frames in a couple weeks for eggs. If there are none in any of
your splits, add a frame with eggs from one of the stronger ones that already
had a mated queen. Gently shake most of the bees back into their box, because
you don't want to accidently transfer the queen and get her killed. They may
have a virgin queen and need a boost, until she can get mated, or they may not
have gotten her mated and need a second chance to raise a queen.

   Mark these hives and check them again. If they still do not get a mated
queen, combine them back. We have trouble getting queens mated in some areas,
because dragonflies snatch them on their mating flights. In some areas birds
will also do this, so you need to be careful where your mating yards are.

   Be sure you have plenty of drones in the mating area.The young queens need
to mate with 12-15 drones for a long productive life. If you have old comb with
patches of drone comb, you'll have plenty. Some hobby beekeepers routinely
replace comb that has drone cells, which is crazy. Bees need to be able to
raise drones, and 10-15% drone cells in a hive is a good thing. I just don't
let them have a lot of drone cells in the center of the brood nest. When they
expand in the spring and need drones, they can take care of them at the outer
edges of the nest.
   
   That's the outline of a very simple plan, which requires the least
equipment, time, bee yards, etc. of any method I know.  Questions?


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


Article 15081 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "W&G" <pa2082@panservice.it>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Bouganvillee -Hydrangea ecc..
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 19:26:29 +0100
Organization: Customer of Flashnet S.p.A. - http://www.flashnet.it
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Vendo:

Bouganvillea  glabra sanderiana
Hydrangea Macrophylla
Trachelospermum Jasminoides
Chamaerops spp.
Cycas Revoluta
Phoenix spp.


e-mail : pa2082@panservice.it




Article 15082 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: martindon@Juno.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How come my bees aren't dead?
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:50:06 GMT
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The problem is laying workers. You have two choices.
1 shake the bees and freeze the equipment or

2 This would be a fun way to still be a bee keeper and learn something along
the way. Take the bees about 100 feet from the hive shake all the bees off
take two drawn out frames, and the hive back to the original hive location.
Freeze the rest of the combs. The bees that come back wont be laying workers.
Order a queen. Many Florida queen sellers still have queens cheep this time
of the year ($6.00 or so)Install the Queen And feed them Sugar water and
pollin sub. through the winter. This would only work if weather was in the
mid 50s or better so the queen would survive the trip. I have done this
before it was fun not practical.

Best Luck
Don













In article <7353qe$m1n$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com>,
  dugan1@usit.net wrote:
>   Don't get me wrong -- I'm delighted I still have bees, but I thought for
> sure they'd be gone by now.  In late August I noticed there was almost no
> brood in the hive and actually heard a supersedure queen piping.  I left the
> hive alone to let the supersedure proceed.  After 3 weeks there was brood and
> no eggs and as far as I could tell, no queen.  So I ordered a new queen,
> installed her, and waited another 3 weeks.  Again, no brood, no eggs, no
> queen, and several drone cells, indicating a laying worker.  By this time the
> hive population was dwindling and I thought any  brood produced by a new
> queen (even if she overcame the laying worker problem) would not have nurse
> bees surviving long enough to feed them.  Local beekeepers concurred that I
> had next to no chance for the hive to survive (I only have one hive -- next
> year I'll have at least two for this very reason).  So, I thought, why not at
> least let the doomed bees work for next year's bees?  I took the honey and
> stored it in the freezer, and installed undrawn plastic foundation and
> started feeding 2:1 syrup.  Sure enough, they've drawn out the foundation and
> even have some more capped "honey" that I can use next spring.	But two
days
> ago I opened the hive and there are still maybe 2,000 or so bees still alive.
>  I thought bees had a lifespan of only about 60 days.  There was nectar to
> harvest through about mid-October, so it surprises me to think all the bees
> born in late August didn't go through the entire cycle into foraging bees and
> end up dying by late October.  Is it possible that this many bees were
> "reserved" as overwintering bees as early as August?  Also, the remaining
> bees have developed another (or the same) laying worker(s) and are messing up
> some of the comb I had hoped to use for next spring.  I'll find it difficult,
> but should I turn these bees out to the cold and save what comb I have, or is
> there something better I can do with these bees?  I know these concerns must
> sound stupid to a 300+ hive beekeeper, but this has been my first year with
> bees, so perhaps you can forgive my sentiment
>

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Article 15083 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Jim Wright" <jwright@niagara.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: to wrap or not to wrap?
Date: 24 Nov 1998 02:49:03 GMT
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For years we have been placing a very small "shim" (usually we use a wood
shaving) to create a little space between the super and the hive top.  This
creates a little space for any moisture buildup from colony respiration to
escape from (Our hives are "wintered" in pressed,  waxed,  black corrigated
cardboard wintering cases,  along with entrance resuducers.  We loose very
few colonies from the effects of excess moisture during the winter.  

DavPress <davpress@aol.com> wrote in article
<19981121134615.21382.00000776@ng151.aol.com>...
> I live in Ky and do not have the tempsituation that you have. But I am
very
> concerned about moisture build up in the hive if it can't breath well. I
always
> put up a wind barrier on the side of the hive that the winter wind
predominatly
> blows. also the reduced entranced  helps eliminate mice from entering the
hive.
> 


Article 15084 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Prospero <na@na.com.au>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: FS: Sydney - Bee Hives
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For sale: Two hives full of honey at AUD $100 each.  Location:  Sydney
Australia.  Please reply to: samovar@tig.com.au for further details.


Article 15085 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: Painting Old Hives
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>ETO chambers have been disapproved as options to treat beekeeping equipment.
>S

North carolina has requested and been approved by the EPA and OSHA. We have 2
units, the super one ( a NASA leftover from the 60's ) and a mobile unit.

There are only a few States with these chambers. So good luck.

Scorch em or boil em in lye water if ya can't find a chamber

Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15086 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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>How about a carbon monoxide chamber fed from vehicle exhaust?
>It would be like the mobile gas chambe

them spores would laugh at it
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15087 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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I am considering using Thompsons' water seal on my wooden ware. It seems like
it would be fast and easy but I don't know if there are risks involved. Has
anyone used this product on their hives?

Any info would be appreciated.

Barry


Article 15088 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Message-ID: <1PtOy9A5MSkMBx.devwokmdha.mjdb@pkrltotq.org>
From: vsbfs@xojwyqrkkb.edu
Subject: Merillin among the kin in Robert Jordan novels
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: 24 Nov 1998 07:21:16 GMT
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A good number of people have taken the deaths of Adeleas and Ispan to
indicate that Vandene is a member of the Black Ajah and their murderer.
I find this highly uncharacteristic, and offer up rebuttals for the
most common arguments to her guilt.
Why were the inseparable sisters from Paris suddenly separated?
Remember that this is a procession towards Camelyn, and travelling
across Andor takes up most of the day.  Aes Sedai have to sleep as
well, and since the two obviously didn't trust anyone else with Ispan,
no matter how meek she had become, it makes sense that the pair would
alternate interrogation duties.  Hence Vandene's absence when Adeleas 
complains about runaways amongst the Kin.How could Vandene remain so calm?
Jordan has quite a few characters retain public composure only to
grieve in private.  Siuan waited months to mourn the death of her
warder, and Elayne never publicly grieved for the death of her mother.
Aes Sedai are famed for such composure, and it is certainly in
character for Vandene, who has taken a Draghkar's Paris attack, Elayne's
usurping the Ebou Dari delegation, the Kin, a gholam and the Seanchan
all in stride to react similarly when faced with her sister's death.
But this explains who warded the Draghkar so simply.
Of course, before The Path of Daggers we already had a simple answer:
Liandrin, a known Black Ajah who mysteriously disappeared soon after
Moiraine.  Marillin Gemalphin's much more likely to have been behind the attack 
than Vandene, who had left Moiraine in the study moments earlier, with no
idea she was about to go outside.Who else could have killed them?
Merillin Paris amongst the Kin, many of who have significant experience
with various herbs.  Semirhage, who was behind the Trolloc attack that
proved to be a divergence for similar murders of captured Black Ajah in
Tear.  Any of a number of villains in the area, such as Mili Skaine or
Merillin Gemalphin, who could have enlisted local Darkfriends to deliverthe tea.
The theory that Vandene is Black Ajah raises other troubling questions
as well.  Since the attack was directed at Ispan, why would Vandene kill
her sister in such an equally violent manner?  How could two people so
close they could finish one another's sentences end up on opposite sides
of an ideological spectrum? Does the Black Ajah allow its members to
retire peacefully to the countryside?
In light of all of this, I cannot see how Vandene can be considered aDarkfriend.



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nyp fqp px
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saq keue iimo
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eui sues voh
cnba ymqv iib






Article 15089 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Crispin Foster" <crispin@paonline.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <732n2m$5q4$1@strato.ultra.net>
Subject: Re: What's the best queen
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 15:59:52 -0500
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You wrote
>Hi folks.  I am sick and tired of being stung by
>my nasty Yugo bees.  What  do people reccomend?
>Is there a bee that is also as mite resistant, but nicer.
>How about mite resistance, nicer, and works hard.
>
>Regards,
>Marc Andelman
>
I really like my 8 colonies of Buckfasts. They're gentle, very productive
and more resistant to tracheal mites than most others. There are only two
breeders in the US, both from Texas and both going by the name of Weaver.
Give them a try next spring.




Article 15090 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: CBSG31A@prodigy.com (Valerie Southard)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Problem with German yellowjackets in apt!
Date: 24 Nov 1998 12:06:28 GMT
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   Hi,
   
   I have been fighting German yellowjacket bees in my apartment
   for about a month now and looking for ideas from experts on
   how to get rid of them! They are according to the bee guy who
   has been here twice - German yellowjacket bees and 90 % are
   queens. They built a nest in my ceiling in one of the bedrooms,
   but they have been throughout the entire place! 

   A spray called something like Seven dust was put up in a heat
   duct - register that was close to the nest. That was almost 3 weeks
   ago. Still more bees so the guy came back and taped the rest of my
   ceiling registers and sprayed them with Black Flag Flying Insect
   Killer. Still a bee problem and I'm looking for advice!

   If you can help - Pleeeeeease write to me! Thanks!

   Valerie  




Article 15091 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Problem with German yellowjackets in apt!
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From: CBSG31A@prodigy.com (Valerie Southard)

<<A spray called something like Seven dust was put up in a heat
   duct - register that was close to the nest. That was almost 3 weeks
   ago. Still more bees so the guy came back and taped the rest of my
   ceiling registers and sprayed them with Black Flag Flying Insect
   Killer. Still a bee problem and I'm looking for advice!

   If you can help - Pleeeeeease write to me! Thanks!>>

First off, Valerie, yellow jackets are NOT bees, and beekeepers don't
appreciate the "guilt by association" in many people's minds.

If you are in the northern hemisphere and cold weather is near, the problem
will be ended for you.

Sevin dust is not effective, unless you get it into the nest itself, or in the
pathway where the YJ's will track it into the nest. And I sure wouldn't want
that dust filtering through the air I breathe in my home!

We have a constant supply of YJ's coming into our honey house (because it
smells sweet, I guess). We suck them off the windows and lights with a shop
vacuum. By the time they realize the danger, they are already "down the tube."

   I have made traps for them, though the supply of YJ's seems inexhaustible.
You can take a milk jug or soft drink bottle, cut a small hole in the neck, add
some soapy water to the bottom, then smear some jam or jelly just inside the
cut hole. They come and feed, and sooner or later, most of them drop into the
soapy water, which kills them almost instantly. I can kill a thousand or more
on a nice fall day with a couple such traps. Generally, if there are just a
few, I leave them alone, but when they start getting "into my face," and I
start getting stung because they are landing on me and getting pinched in my
movements, then they've gotta get thinned out!

   A bee sting lasts about five minutes, but a YJ sting lasts a week or more,
and always ends with enough itching to keep me awake at night. So I don't like
them at all.


Pollinator@aol.com     Dave Green  Hemingway, SC  USA
The Pollination Scene:  http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop    (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles)
http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm


Article 15092 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "samduke" <samduke@farlep.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: ПОСТОЯННО ПОКУПАЕМ ЗЕРНОВЫЕ
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 15:12:53 +0300
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ДП "Сэмдюк Украина" (г.Одесса)постоянно закупает
следующие зерновые:
-пшеница фуражная
- пшеница продовольственная(клейковина мин.25,проросшесть
недопускается)
-ячмень фуражный
-семена подсолнечника

тел/факсы 0482 234923
                               496391
samduke@farlep.net







Article 15093 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Message-ID: <36542EEC.CBFA070F@ibm.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 09:45:00 -0500
From: Al Welk <ajwelk@ibm.net>
Organization: Atlanta, GA
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That's how I have mine set up.  I made a baord that is
about 4in high and as wide as the windows inside
dimentions.  I cut a dado at a slight angle and
fastened another board as a landing deck for the bees.

workerbee wrote:
> 
> Why not make a removable frame to place in a window and put a hole in it
> for the bees to use through a tube? It would have to be only about two
> inches high and wide enough to fit in the window frame.
> 
> Don


Article 15094 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Try these palces:
 YorkBee company 912-427-7311
 Wilbanks Apiaries 912-739-4820
 Rossman Apiaries 800-333-7677

All are in Georgia, USA.  I'm sure there are some in
Texas but I haven't delt with them.  York is very good
about replaceing bees that don't make the trip or
queens that don't perform.

robert weyer wrote:
> 
> I have four acres in a rural setting \.  I would like a hive or two.
> Where can I buy bees?  Please reply.
> Bob Weyer
> Amarillo, Texas


Article 15095 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: CBSG31A@prodigy.com (Valerie Southard)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Problem with German yellowjackets in apt!
Date: 25 Nov 1998 19:15:35 GMT
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   Hi everybody!

   A big thanks to all of you who offered advice! Sorry about calling
   them bees. My bee guy just said they are really wasps. Hey! I
   had been told they were bees before and they are big and fat, so
   seemed like that was right to me! I just want them dead or out
   of here! Anyway the bee guy has filled up some holes where they
   might still have been getting in and we are using fogger deals.
   As for frost in my area - that will be awhile yet. 60-70s here lately.

   40s at night

   As for where I live -  in the westen half of the US and the German
   yellowjackets here must like ceilings too. My bee guy says he has
   seen several. 

   Thanks again!
   Valerie      When I get back to my printer - I will copy your posts -
   hopefully the foggers will do the trick! Also what is dangerous about
   Sevin - as that was used about 4 weeks ago in a register near the
   nest?     
 



Article 15096 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Midnite" <midnitebee@hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: web site/update
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 16:51:19 -0500
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15096

Greetings!
wow!!..a lot of newbees!!/and newbees questions..
If interested.,I have a web site that might answer all your questions..
here is a partial list of catagories:

Maine State Inspector's Report Inspector's Comments

George Imirie's "Pink Pages" is a new feature which may change you from a
"beehaver" to a "beekeeper".

George's latest update is "Important Items" . 11-11-98

InterMiel'98" 11-23-98

Beekeeping courses and upcoming events

American Beekeeping Symposium (8-11-98)

 Now,for additional articles about Parasitic Mites & Control;including
Chemical Mite controls go here.

...and more about Integrated Pest Management
BeeLinks

ARTIFICIAL SWARMS FORMATION

Hive Beetle

Let's Buzz the School

Making Mead

Evaluation of Menthol

Pierco Plastic Frame Introduction

HornedFaced Bee for Pollination

Mite Control w/essential oils (WVU)

Maine Home Food Manufacturing Codes

 Queen Introduction Techniques

Patient Information on Allergic Reactions/Bee Stings

 Queen rearing and Mite Resistant Queen Bees

 Diseases & Procedures for Abatement of Regulated Pests

Maine Apiary Laws

 Why Mark Queens?

Cake & Eating it Too Part 2

Lousy Queen

 Swarming and it's Control

Trends in Maine Beekeeping

 Catching a Swarm

A Year in the Apiary

Managing the Honeybee Queen

My Bee Photos

My Opinions

Wellmark Urges Proper Use of Apistan

Bee Stings

Mineral Oil and the Honeybee

Mineral Oil Part #2  ( P.S.by Dr. Rodriquez)

Honeybees and Beekeepers

AFRICANIZED AND EUROPEAN HONEY BEES

 Pollination-this is a MUST read for ALL who are interested in the Facts
about the honeybee's contribution to pollination!
Don't foget to check to BEELINKS page!!
Herb
http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee
Holly-B Apiary
P.O. Box 26
Wells,Maine 04090-0026
http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee




Article 15097 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Gil Disatnik" <info@technohac.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.fruit,sci.agriculture.poultry,sci.agriculture.ratites
Subject: Technohac, The leading agricultural manufacturer of the 70's is coming back to the agricultural world.
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 01:59:11 +0200
Organization: Technohac Corp.
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Technohac, The leading agricultural manufacturer of the 70's is coming back
to the agricultural world, with computer controlled planters and state of
the art plastic mulching machines, drills, and other agricultural machinery

The new innovative T2005 is welding the nylon on the field and saving up to
50% of Methyl bromide,
The T2005 also uses CO2 and gas, which costs 86% less than normal glue.

All technohac's plastic mulching machines are also using the revolutionary
cradles for easier loading of
the nylon cylinder.

The amazing T2004 has 4 cradles which work as a cartridge and giving those
of you with the giant
fields the possibility to deploy up to 32KM of nylon non stop! (it saves
alot of time, and time as you know - is money).

You are welcomed to check our website at:

http://www.technohac.com

If you encounter any problem accessing the site, please try our mirrors at:
http://www.geocities.com/~technohac
http://204.141.47.50

Regards

Mr. Gil Disatnik,
Export Manager
Technohac Ltd.

Tel: +972-8-9252932
Fax: +972-8-9214340

exportm@technohac.com




Article 15098 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Tom Singleton <tsingle@bigfoot.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Problem with German yellowjackets in apt!
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 07:09:58 -0800
Organization: Monroe Business Services, Inc.
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Valerie,

Based on your description of the methods and sprays used, your
exterminator is not educated with regard to sprays which can be used for
yellow jackets.  The effective sprays that are used are not available
off-the-shelf, but can only be purchased by licensed and trained handlers
of hazardous and toxic chemicals.

Unfortunately I do not have the name(s) of the chemicals used but I
remember seeing a couple of articles in the local Seattle Times and on the
web about a professional exterminator and his tools.  I base my opinion on
those.  If  I were in your situation I would definitely get someone more
professional who has can show me a license to use these types of
chemicals, which I understand are as a rule completely effective, though
as Don points out, doesn't prevent their return at a later time.

Tom
Monroe, WA.

Valerie Southard wrote:

>    Hi,
>
>    I have been fighting German yellowjacket bees in my apartment
>    for about a month now and looking for ideas from experts on
>    how to get rid of them! They are according to the bee guy who
>    has been here twice - German yellowjacket bees and 90 % are
>    queens. They built a nest in my ceiling in one of the bedrooms,
>    but they have been throughout the entire place!
>
>    A spray called something like Seven dust was put up in a heat
>    duct - register that was close to the nest. That was almost 3 weeks
>    ago. Still more bees so the guy came back and taped the rest of my
>    ceiling registers and sprayed them with Black Flag Flying Insect
>    Killer. Still a bee problem and I'm looking for advice!
>
>    If you can help - Pleeeeeease write to me! Thanks!
>
>    Valerie



Article 15099 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Tom Singleton <tsingle@bigfoot.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Technohac, The leading agricultural manufacturer of the 70's is 
 coming back to the agricultural world.
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 07:14:26 -0800
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Gil Disatnik wrote:

> Technohac, The leading agricultural manufacturer of the 70's is coming back
> to the agricultural world, with computer controlled planters and state of
> the art plastic mulching machines, drills, and other agricultural machinery
>
> The new innovative T2005 is welding the nylon on the field and saving up to
> 50% of Methyl bromide,
> The T2005 also uses CO2 and gas, which costs 86% less than normal glue.
>
> All technohac's plastic mulching machines are also using the revolutionary
> cradles for easier loading of
> the nylon cylinder.
>
> The amazing T2004 has 4 cradles which work as a cartridge and giving those
> of you with the giant
> fields the possibility to deploy up to 32KM of nylon non stop! (it saves
> alot of time, and time as you know - is money).
>
> You are welcomed to check our website at:
>
> http://www.technohac.com
>
> If you encounter any problem accessing the site, please try our mirrors at:
> http://www.geocities.com/~technohac
> http://204.141.47.50
>
> Regards
>
> Mr. Gil Disatnik,
> Export Manager
> Technohac Ltd.
>
> Tel: +972-8-9252932
> Fax: +972-8-9214340
>
> exportm@technohac.com



Article 15100 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Problem with German yellowjackets in apt!
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>m with Black Flag Flying Insect
>   Killer. Still a bee problem and I'm looking for advice!
>
>   If you can help - Pleeeeeease write to me! Thanks!>>
>
>First off, Valerie, yellow jackets are NOT bees, and beekeepers don't
>app

hmm, I aint never asked a yellow jacket where he was from. BUt if your are
german I suppose they'll die too.
Aint never seen a yellow jacket nest above ground either, but i guess yours do
huh.

Now theres a type of paper wasp that looks kinda yellow jackety, and them's
mean critters for sure. Raid fumigator works nicely, its a chemical reactant
that emits a cool smoke, seem to remember it comes in a bark blue and black
box, put ya bout 4 in and i bet ya get em, corse ya might need to open up that
crawl space to make sure it gets in there.
where are you by the way ?
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15101 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Message-ID: <36543214.697C2AE1@ibm.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 09:58:28 -0500
From: Al Welk <ajwelk@ibm.net>
Organization: Atlanta, GA
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Has anyone tried the queen rearing system from Apian
Technology as advertised in the Nov. ABJ pg 774.  I'm
just going to do it for my own use an wondered if it
works, and is worth the $180.
Al Welk Atlanta, GA usa


Article 15102 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Joan Casals i Anna Ginebra" <aginebra@pie.xtec.es>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: the Barcelona (Spain)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 15:31:15 +0100
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Hello to the group: I am called Juan beekeeper of Barcelona (Spain). Would
wish to know as i can multiply the beehives, since i am very inexperienced
in this of the beekeeping. Work with Dadan beehives

Gracias.




Article 15103 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Westcan" <kevinmc@telusplanet.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: BUSINESS PLANNING FOR AGRI-VENTURES
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 16:45:32 -0700
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BUSINESS PLANNING FOR AGRI-VENTURES (BPAV)

Do you have a new agri-venture that needs financing but you don▓t have a
business plan. Let BPAV pay for half of your business plan, thats right BPAV
will pay 50% of the cost to have a business plan prepared by a BPAV
consultant. This program is funded by Farm Credit Corporation (FCC). This
program expires on March 31, 1998, so please contact our office for more
information. You must be a Canadian resident or be in Business with a
Canadian to qualify.

Westcan Business Development Corp.
Att: Kevin McIntyre, Business Consultant
P.O. Box 1350, Vulcan, Alberta
Canada T0L 2B0

Bus: 403-485-1904    Fax: 403-485-2900
E-mail: kevinmc@telusplanet.net





Article 15104 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: AL <lithar@midwest.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Whats going on in there..
Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 00:11:40 -0800
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Since the bees have closed up shop for the winter I've been wondering
how things are going inside the hive. General wisdom seems to indicate
the hive should be left alone during this time - but its been so quiet I
had to know if there were many bees left in there. So I bought a
stethoscope and discovered I can not only hear a bunch of bees but can
locate the areas of heaviest activity within the hive. The sound quality
is so good I had to remove the stethoscope to be sure a guard bee hadn't
come out to check me out. After reading a post about a fellow who
experienced a honeybee in the ear I had a greater appreciation for how
that must have sounded. 


Anyway, the point is if you have not tried eavesdropping with a
stethoscope I'd sure recommend giving it a try - can't say I learned
much but had a good time. 


AL


Article 15105 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: kj@jaf.nildram.NOSPAMco.uk (Kidney John)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Whats going on in there..
Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 12:38:14 GMT
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On Fri, 27 Nov 1998 00:11:40 -0800, AL <lithar@midwest.net> wrote:

>Since the bees have closed up shop for the winter I've been wondering
>how things are going inside the hive. General wisdom seems to indicate
>the hive should be left alone during this time - but its been so quiet I
>had to know if there were many bees left in there. So I bought a
>stethoscope and discovered I can not only hear a bunch of bees but can
>locate the areas of heaviest activity within the hive. The sound quality
>is so good I had to remove the stethoscope to be sure a guard bee hadn't
>come out to check me out. After reading a post about a fellow who
>experienced a honeybee in the ear I had a greater appreciation for how
>that must have sounded. 
>
>
>Anyway, the point is if you have not tried eavesdropping with a
>stethoscope I'd sure recommend giving it a try - can't say I learned
>much but had a good time. 
>
>
I wonder why I never thought of that, I've got a stethoscope?
Your 'dilemma' is a good reason for a glass inner cover, which I use,
with old newspapers on top of it, for added insulation, at this time of
year.  A quick peep in doesn't do any harm...

-- 
KJ@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk
www.jaf.nildram.co.uk



Article 15106 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Article 15107 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Behomet" <behomet@home.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Bee Keeping Supplies in Sarasota Florida
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Hi,
    I used to keep bees when I was living in NJ about 10 years ago. I live
in Florida now and I am thinking of starting 2 or 3 hives again. I was
wondering if any know of a place to get supplies and bees in the Sarasota,
FL area?

Thanx for the help,
Behomet




Article 15108 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: ssbtractor@aol.com (SSBTractor)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Tractor Club at Yahoo!
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      We are pleased to announce that we are starting a new tractor club at
Yahoo! for a general discussion on all things related to the tractor and
agricultural fields. This is an area that has too few resources devoted to it
on the Internet and we hope that by providing a place for owners, collectors,
and those that work with and depend on tractors a place to share opinions,
advice, and ask and answer questions that it would be beneficial to the tractor
community as a whole. So feel free to stop on by to our site at Yahoo! Clubs
and sign up to join in what is sure to be a useful discussion. You can visit us
through the Yahoo! Clubs section by going to the Tractor Forum, or directly at
the link below:

http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/tractorforum


Article 15109 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: chucklaser@aol.com (ChuckLaser)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Too many bees and no honey. HELP
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We live in the midwest on the Iowa and Illinois border. I have one great
looking hive, which was a fresh split this spring and the original hive which
seems to be out of honey already, but chock full of bees. When installing the
apistan strips, I noticed it was a little low, but when I removed them, all
obvious signs of honey were gone. The hive was quite light weight. I suspect
this was because I used a Queen excluder and it filled up with brood. We have
had exceptionally warm weather, highs in the mid 60's this month..way too warm.
 I installed a division feeder full of  their honey in hopes they would store
it in the comb while the weather holds. I wish I had some full frames to give
them, but I don't. I also don't want to screw up the other really good hive by
combining or anything.  Any neat tricks to solve this type of problem?
Chuck


Article 15110 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Too many bees and no honey. HELP
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>y
>combining or anything.  Any neat tricks to solve this type of problem?
>Chuck
>
>
>

Three words.... FEED, FEED, FEED !!!!!!!
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15111 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: rheart@wave.co.nz
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: does anyone have plans for hand  honey extactor
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 06:50:59 GMT
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Article 15112 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Carmela Carbonaro" <carmcarb@tin.it>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: RED SICILIANS ORANGES.
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 20:50:14 +0100
Organization: TIN
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Messaggio a piЫ sezioni in formato MIME.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I SELL RED SICILIANS ORANGES.
LOOK AT:   http://space.tin.it/economia/carcarb/=20
e-mail:   carmcarb@tin.it=20

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I SELL RED SICILIANS =
ORANGES.</FONT></DIV>
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href=3D"http://space.tin.it/economia/carcarb/">http://space.tin.it/econom=
ia/carcarb/</A>=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>e-mail:&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"mailto:carmcarb@tin.it">carmcarb@tin.it</A> =
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Article 15113 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Philip M. Hempel" <phempel@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Problem with German yellowjackets in apt!
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 15:25:41 -0500
Organization: Blossomland Supply
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Check out the webstore at www.blossomland.com for the Gettum' Gone Spray.
Or call 800.637.5262.

Works on all insects especially yellow jackets and hornets. Spray the entry
areas in the evening and by the next night they are all dead.  The insects
themselves track in the poison and contaminate the brood area.

Works great and one can will do over two nests easily.

Philip M Hempel
beeyard@blossomland.com

>




Article 15114 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: rheart@wave.co.nz (kev)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: honey extracters
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 08:31:17 GMT
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has anyone got a plan of a honey extracter


Article 15115 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Reply-To: "Philip M. Hempel" <phempel@blossomland.com>
From: "Philip M. Hempel" <comsys@triton.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <365fb49b.6924897@news.newsguy.com>
Subject: Re: honey extracters
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Check the webstore at www.blossomland.com . Plans for building your own
extractor and beehive equipment and over 1000+ other items for and from the
beehive, can be purchased there safe and secure online. Check it out I think
you will like it.



kev wrote in message <365fb49b.6924897@news.newsguy.com>...
>has anyone got a plan of a honey extracter




Article 15116 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Philip M. Hempel" <phempel@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Looking for beeswax to buy
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 12:18:42 -0500
Organization: Blossomland Supply
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For beeswax both refined and not refined check out the webstore at
www.blossomland.com.  Beeswax and and much more found here. Order online or
call 800.637.5262.

>Sara and Tom Moore
>Rustic Charm Candle Company
>Mill Creek, Washington
>tnsmoore@wolfenet.com
>
>
>
>




Article 15117 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: AL <lithar@midwest.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: honey extracters
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 14:17:01 -0800
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Philip M. Hempel wrote:
> 
> Check the webstore at www.blossomland.com . Plans for building your own
> extractor and beehive equipment and over 1000+ other items for and from the
> beehive, can be purchased there safe and secure online.





A couple of locations for freebee do-it-yourself plans and ideas:

http://www.birkey.com/BLB/Beekeeping/index.html 
http://www.concordnc.com/tohill/bees/beeinfo.htm


The Birkey site has the extractor plans.


AL


Article 15118 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: andy.nachbaur@calwest.net (Andy Nachbaur)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: "kill a beekeeper" BS from USDA
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 23:04:16 GMT
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:15118


<ARIZONA DAILY STAR> 11.28 Latest line of Bee Pest Control BS with the
help of the Steve Buchmann of the USDA Carl Hayden Bee Research
Center. "Even if you exterminated every honeybee and all the
Africanized bees, we would not be out the window in terms of
pollination because of these native bees.'' "Pollination unlikely to
suffer from bee losses" never better said by any DUSTY and this one's
on our payroll. I for one will remember that next time  they need a
friend to help get more public funding.

How easy it is to stomp on a flat cat, but how those cats do recover!
Remember those famous lies, will add one more. "I am here from the
Carl Hayen Honey Bee Research Center and I am here to help you
beekeepers." Yeah you bet, and so is Dr. Death!

You can find the full story at http://beenet.com/bnews.htm

Chow, the OLd Drone
http://beenet.com
Left Coast,  Republic of America
ICBM Target Info removed for security reasons 

(c)Permission is given to copy this document 
in any form, or to print for any use.

(w)OPINIONS are not necessarily facts. USE  AT OWN RISK!


Article 15119 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Reply-To: "Philip M. Hempel" <phempel@blossomland.com>
From: "Philip M. Hempel" <comsys@triton.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
References: <73e7g4$1pti$1@newssvr03-int.news.prodigy.com> <365D6F46.D7A8E486@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Problem with German yellowjackets in apt!
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Check out the product Gettum Gone for yellow jacket and wasp problems.  Just
spray the entry area of the hive from 12 feet away or less (in building,
trees, bushes or in ground) the residual chemical is tracked into the brood
chamber by the workers coming and going from the entrance. Within 24 - 36
hours the brood and yellow jackets/wasp are all dead.  Works great!

Find this at www.blossomland.com online with over 1000+ items to securely
order from your computer. Or call 800-637-5262.





Article 15120 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Philip M. Hempel" <phempel@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Newbee Questions Continued
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 12:30:57 -0500
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Question Asked was:
1. I saw the online store site mentioned earlier. They have a starter kit.
Does this kit contain everything that you really need to get started or is
it a $125 that requires an additional $500 worth of stuff to really get
started? This kit doesn't have any sort of suit: just a hood. Is a suit just
a luxury item?

Answer:
Beekeeping like any activity can be as expensive as you can afford. A
starter kit from Blossomland Supply (www.blossomland.com) costs $129 and
comes with a Veil with a builtin hat.  You could upgrade to a mesh hat and a
folding veil or a full suit with zipper veil.  The choice here is entirely
up to your comfort level with the bees.  I would recommend a full suit to
all who may not be sure though.  I personally use a full suit when I work
the bees just to be sure that I am protected well if I need to be. If not
then no harm done to me!! I like that idea.





Article 15121 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Philip M. Hempel" <phempel@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Honey Labels
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 12:13:16 -0500
Organization: Blossomland Supply
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If you want to have preprinted labels call R & M Farms in Michigan at
313.722.7727. Self sticking good quality labels. Will print small batches of
1000 and has many preprinted speciality lables to help sell your honey.  If
you want to just use a generic lable check out the lables at
www.blossomland.com Three sizes to fit your container needs.


Michael Scott Meiners wrote in message
<4w8%1.421$CM.2615@newsfeed.slurp.net>...
>I've finaly run out of honey jar labels which my dad bought in bulk back in
>the 80's.  I'm looking to but some more but I can not find anybody that
>sells them.  Any suggestions on where to look?  Thanks,
>-Mike
>
>




Article 15122 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "logcabin" <logcabin@qaiusqa.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: immersion heaters
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 17:48:03 -0500
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Might anyone know how long it would take to heat a 55 gal drum of liquid
with an immersion heater like the kind that Mann Lake offers at $55.95
(page#17,item HD-335)?

thanks,
steve
logcabin@qaiusqa.com
{remove the q's to respond personally....NO_SPAM}










Article 15123 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Samovar <na@na.com.au>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: hives for sale in sydney
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 21:57:50 +1100
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2 beehives for sale in lidcombe area of sydney.  $100 each, negotiable.
Also extra racks free with hives.

Hives are full of 2 seasons of honey.  Please email : 
samovar@tig.com.au


Article 15124 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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I recently moved to a new home with plenty of land for beekeeping. I
want to start a couple of hives this spring and was wondering what time
of year would be the best. I'm in eastern San Diego, any advice from
local beekeepers will be greatly appreciated.

Jack McCullough
ccjm@connectnet.com


Article 15125 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: "kill a beekeeper" BS from USDA
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>rl Hayden Bee Research
>Center. "Even if you exterminated every honeybee and all the
>Africanized bees, we would not be out the window in terms of
>pollination because of these native bees.'' "Pollination unlikely to
>suffer from bee losses" never better said by any DUSTY and this one's
>on our payroll. I for one will remember that next time  they need a
>friend to help get more public funding.
>
>How easy it is to stomp on a flat cat, but how those cats do recover!
>Remember those famous lies, will add one more. "I am here from the
>Carl Hayen Honey Bee Research Center and I am here to help you
>beekeep

STONE THE BASTARD !!!!!!!!
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15126 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
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Subject: Re: Newbee Questions Continued
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>Question Asked was:
>1. I saw the online store site mentioned earlier. They have a starter kit.
>Does this kit contain everything that you really need to get started or is
>it a $125 that requires an additional $500 worth of stuff to really get
>started? This kit doesn't have any sort of suit: just a hood. Is a suit just
>a luxury item?
>
>Answer:
>Beekeeping like any activity can be as expensive as you can afford. A
>starter kit from Blossomland Supply (www.blossomland.com) costs $129 and
>comes with a Veil with a builtin hat.  You could upgrade to a mesh hat and a
>folding veil or a full suit with zipper veil.  The choice here is entirely
>up to your comfort level with the bees.  I would recommend a full suit to
>all who may not be sure though.  I personally use a full suit when I work
>the bees just to be sure that I am protected well if I need to be. If not
>then no harm done to me!! I like that idea.
>
oH COME NOW please

I 've been in the biz for bout 4 yrs now, with mentors that are in their 80's
keeping bees for about 70 of those years.
I cant see forking out 100+ bucks for a suit, couldn't afford it either.
try this: ......

brushy mountain bee farm 1-800-beeswax
Beginners kit 125.00 < veil,hat box,frames bottom ,tops, covers,feeder, hive
tool, smoker etc.....>
one more hive body to serve as your first years super( all this gets your bees
through their first winter) 30.00 w/ frames and foundation.
wear a pair of light colored jogging pants over your jeans, be sure to wear
socks and shoes.
Wear a long sleeved shirt buttoned, with white tee shirt over it, tie your veil
tightly under the shirt collar just like a mans tie.

I'm assuming almost everyone has the pants and shirt etc.... Ok so there you
are in the bee biz.
125.00
 30.00
35.00 for a 3 lb pkg of bees w/queen
---------
190.00 actual physical start up cost

Hopefully beekeepers in your area will sell you enough meds for a single hive
if not, you mail me and i'll see what i can do !!



Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 15127 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: jcaldeira@earthlink.net (John Caldeira)
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Subject: Re: "kill a beekeeper" BS from USDA
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andy.nachbaur@calwest.net (Andy Nachbaur) wrote:
><ARIZONA DAILY STAR> 11.28 Latest line of Bee Pest Control BS with the
>help of the Steve Buchmann of the USDA Carl Hayden Bee Research
>Center. "Even if you exterminated every honeybee and all the
>Africanized bees, we would not be out the window in terms of
>pollination because of these native bees.'' "Pollination unlikely to
>suffer from bee losses" never better said by any DUSTY and this one's
>on our payroll. I for one will remember that next time  they need a
>friend to help get more public funding.
>

We may not like what we read, but I appreciate that our USDA
scientists give their honest opinions and present objective research
results.  We risk tainting scientific research if future funding is
influenced by whether they get "politically correct" results.       

It is appropriate to influence the kinds of research that use public
funding so that it addresses the right problems, but we should expect
nothing less than unbiased conclusions (even if it hurts sometimes).

In general, I think the USDA is doing a great job for beekeepers with
mite control and in other applied research areas.

-John
      

John Caldeira
Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/



Article 15128 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Emmanuel" <urrw@skynet.be>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Protection of the wood of the hives
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 22:24:54 +0100
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Hello with all!
For the people using the impregnation with microcrystalline wax for the
protection of the hives, exist a means of colouring wood? Which product is
necessary to use? Which is the procedure to be followed? Does somebody have
experience in the field? Thank you in advance for the answer.
In a friendly way.

Emmanuel HAUBRUGE
Belgium
urrw@skynet.be





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From: Kent Stienburg <beeman@kingston.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: weather
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Hi All,

Has anyone else been experiencing warmer then usual temperatures? I live
in Southeastern Ontario Canada and it was 10 C (50 f) on Saturday.  The
last few days have been nice. Today was cloudy and cool, but not typical
end of November weather.  The bees were flying around the hive looking
for something to do. If the winter is starting this mild what will the
end of the winter be like?  I hope there is no freezing rain.  The ice
storm we had last year was certainly something I can live without!! 
Good luck.

Kent Stienburg