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FAQ: Herbs
Herbs
Herb production may be for culinary purposes (food flavoring), for
scents and fragrances (potpourris), for medicinal uses or others (dyes, dried
floral arrangements etc). Herb producers often grow for all these markets,
and some herbs may be used for all these purposes.
Some of the most popular culinary herbs grown commercially and by home
gardeners and hobbyists are: Basil, cilantro (coriander), chervil, dill,
oregano, mint, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon and thyme.
Information on herbs may be obtained from library references, seed
catalogues, special garden books and some public bulletins. Because of the
highly special nature of herb production, public bulletins are minimal and the
information contained in them is very general. For these reasons, this
document will only give a limited amount of general information on culinary
herbs or those that may be used for culinary and other uses. Medicinal herbs
are so specialized and often controversial that mention of their use will be
ancillary, and only if the herb is also used for culinary purposes.
Herbs most commonly grown in the Pacific Northwest are mostly adapted to
sunny or occasionally mostly sunny, warm locations. Those listed are general-
ly adapted to a wide range of soil types. Herbs need minimal irrigation,
particularly as they mature and their aromatic and flavor compounds are
developing.
Fertilizer requirements are basic, usually being limited to N, P, and K.
In some cases lime is needed to maintain soil pH near neutral, but most are
adapted to a wide range of soil pH. (5.5-7.5). Nitrogen is usually applied at
75-150 lbs./acre depending on the harvested product (leaves or seeds). Timing
of nitrogen applications is dependent on whether the species is annual,
biennial or perennial. Phosphorous is applied at 50-200 lbs./acre and
potassium at 0-150 lbs./acre depending on the above-mentioned characteristics
of the crop and soil test.
Few pesticides are registered for use in herb production. In some cases
special restrictions apply to the use of pesticides in products that will be
concentrated (distilled or processed in certain ways.
Harvest timing and equipment are also specific to the herbs being
produced. Often, considerable hand labor is required in production and
harvest operations, particularly when the marketable leafy portions of some
must be separated from stems, or where only the floral parts are required.
Small motorized clippers are often used as harvester aids. Sometimes, when
seeds are the marketable product, combines, often specially adapted, are used.
Where the distilled oil is the marketable product, there are those who provide
custom distillation using portable or stationary stills.
The harvested product often requires immediate special handling such as
drying, separation of leaves or seed, and temporary packaging storage to best
preserve its color, aroma, flavor, the integrity of its appearance and
sanitary condition.
The following is a tabular listing of some of the herbs that may be
produced in the Pacific Northwest, a brief description, their taxonomic
classification, common synonyms, general uses, and production considerations.
Five characteristics or cultural practices considerations are coded and
separated by backslash (/). The codes are represented as follows:
Life cycle: annual (a)/ biennial (b)/ perennial (p).
Established by: Seed (s)/ divisions (d)/ cuttings (c)/ or transplants (t).
Planting time: Spring (sp)/ after frost danger (af)/ fall (fa).
Plant size: as listed next.
Preferred site: Full sun (fs)/ part shade (ps)/ also a potted plant (pot).
Uses are represented by the column headings:
Flavorings (FLA), tea (TEA), fragrances (FRA), ornamental (ORN) and folk
medicine (MED):
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Angelica Angelica spp.
an herbacious aromatic herb.
about 50 spp. Sometimes planted for
bold ornamental effects.
Angelica Angelica archangelica
(b/s/fa/6-7'/ps, fs) x x x x
Anise Pipinella spp. Herbacious perennials
and sometimes annuals numbering about
75 species of which only anise is cul-
tivated.
Anise Pimpinella anisum
(a/s/sp/1.5'/ms, fs) x x x
Anise-hyssop/anise mint, Korean mint
Agastache foeniculum
(p/s/sp,fa/3-4'/fs) x x x x x
Balm (see lemon balm)
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location)* FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Basil Ocimum spp. About 60, little-known
species of which only basil is im-
portant. More than a dozen types are
grown for seasoning and their pleasing
fragrance. Only the mored common ones
are listed. Frost sensitive.
Basil, bush O. bascilicum
(a/s/sp-af/1'/fs) x x
Basil, cinnamon O. basilicum
(a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x
Basil, Genovese/sweet Italian O. basilicum
(a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x
Basil, purple ruffles O. basilicum
(a/s/sp-af/1.5'/fs) x x
Basil, licorice O. basilicum
(a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x
Basil, sweet Ocimum basilicum (main basil used)
(a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x
Basil, lemon O. basilicum citrodorum
(Sweet Dani - new, true breeding variety
from Purdue University New Crops Center)
(a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x x
Basil, dark opal O. basilicum purpurescence
(a/s/sp-af/1'/fs) x x x
Basil, sacred O. basilicum sanctum
(a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x x
Basil, spicy globe O. basilicum minimum
(a/s/sp-af/6"/fs, pot) x x x
Bee Balm (see Bergamot)
Bergamot/beebalm Monarda didyma
(p/d,s/sp/2'-4'/fs,ps) x x x
Borage Borago officinalis
(a/s,t/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Burnet salad Sanguisobia minor
(p/s/sp/1'/fs) x x
Calamintha (see Savory)
Calendula, pot marigold Calendula officinalis
both orange and yellow types available.
(a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs) x x x
Caraway Carum carvi
(a,b/s/sp,fa/2'-3'/fs) x x
Catnip Nepeta cataria
(p/s,t/sp/2'-5'/fs) x x x x x
Chamomile Matricaria recutita an important
medicinal plant.
Chamomile/German chamomile Matricaria recutita
(a/s,d/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x x
Chamomile/Roman chamomile Chamaemelum nobile
(p/s,d/sp,fa/1'/fs) x x x x
Chervil Anthriscus cerefolium
(a/s/sp/1'-2'/ps,fs) bolts easily x x x x
Chives Allium schoenoprasum
(p/s,d/sp/1'/fs,pot) x x
Chives/Chinese garlic/garlic chives
Allium tuberosum (p/s,d/sp,fa/1'/fs,pot) x x
Citronella (see lemongrass)
Cilantro Coriandrum sativum (the Spanish name
for coriander, grown for the fresh leaves);
bolts at high temperatures. Use bolting
resistant varieties, or grow during cool
weather.
(a/s/sp,af/1'-2'/fs,ps,pot) x x x
Coriander Coriandrum sativum (same as cilantro
but grown for its seed)
(a/s/sp/3'/fs) x x x
Cress, curly, garden, pepper-grass Lepidium sativum
(b/s/sp/6"/fs,pot) x
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Cress, water Nasturtium officinale
(p/s/sp/6"/fs) x
Cress, winter/upland, Barbarea vulgaris
(b,s/sp,6"/fs,pot) x
Cumin Cuminum cyminum
(a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs) like coriander x x
Dill Anethum graveolens
(a/s/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x
Fennel, Florence Foeniculum vulgare dulce
(perennial, but grown as an annual) Grown
for its bulb. Zefa fino (Royal Sluis)
best root type evaluated, and resistance
to bolting (Indiana). Days from seeding
to harvest range from 100 to 120.
(p,a/s/sp/3'-4'/fs) x x x
Fenugreek Trigonella foenum-graecum
(a/s/sp/1'-3'/fs) x x x
Geranium, scented Pelargonium spp. Warm areas.
Several forms and hybrids include: Rose-
scented P. capitatum, nutmeg P. fragrans,
apple P. odoratissimum, lemon P. crispum,
pine-scented P. denticulatum, mint P.
tomentosum and others!
(p/c/sp/1'-3'/fs,pot) x x x x
Horehound, white Marrubium vulgare
(p/s/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x x
Hyssop, blue Hyssopus officinalis
(p/s,c,d/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x x
Lavender, true Lavandula vera, and more than 28
other species. Two main species, Lavandula
latifolia (spike, sweet, lavender) and
L. angustifolia (English/French lavender)
and their hybrids (some sterile) are used
in commerce.
(p/c,s/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x x x
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Lemongrass/citronella Cymbopogon sp., primarily
East Indian Cymbopogon flexusus, and West
Indian Cymbopogon citratus
Lemongrass
(p/d/sp/3'/fs,pot) not winter-hardy x x x x
Lemon Balm Melissa officinalis
(p/s,c,d/sp/1 1/2'-2'/fs) x x x x x
Lemon verbena Aloysia triphylla
(p/c/sp/1'-2'/fs) x x x x x
Licorice Glycyrrhiza glabra
(p/c,d,/3'-5'/fs) x x
Lovage Levisticum officinale
(p/s,d/sp/3'-4'/fs,ps) x x
Marjoram, sweet Origanum majorana (see also
Oregano)
(p/s,t/sp/1'-2'/fs) x x x x
Mint Mentha sp.
Japanese mint M. arvensis var. piperescens x x x x x
Peppermint M.x M. piperita var. vulgaris x x x x x
or M. x M. piperita var. officinalis x x x x x
Bergamot mint M.x M. piperita var. citrata x x x x x
Pennyroyal, European M. pulegium x x x
or American Hedeoma pulegioides x x x
Corsican mint M. requienii x x x x x
Spearmint M. spicata x x x x x
Apple mint M. suaveolens x x x x x
Pineapple mint M. suaveolens var. variegata x x x x x
(p/s,c,d/sp,fa/1'-2'/fs,pot)
Mustard, condiment Brassica sp.
black B. nigra x x
brown B. juncea x x
white B. alba x x
yellow mustard B. hirta x x
(a,b/s/sp/2'-5'/fs) x x
Nasturtium Tropaeolum majus
(p,a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs, pot) x x
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Oregano is of primarily two unrelated genera,
Origanum and Lippia. European oregano is
also call wild marjoram, winter marjoram,
oregano and organy, and is Origanum
vulgare. Greek oregano, also called winter
sweet marjoram, or pot marjoram is
Origanum heracleoticum (formaly O. hirtum).
Mexican oregano, also called Mexican sage,
origan, oregamon, wild marjoram, Mexican
marjoram or Mexican wild sage is Lippia
graveolens.
Oregano, European Origanum vulgare
(a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs,pot) x x x
Oregano, Greek Origanum heracleoticum
(p/c/sp/1'-2'/fs,pot) x x x
Oregano, Mexican Lippia graveolens (not in the
Labiatae family)
(a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs,pot) x x x
Parsley, curly and Italian Petroselinum hortense
(b/s,t/sp/12"-18"/fs) x x x
Pennyroyal (see "mint" above)
Poppy Papaver somniferum seed and opium poppy;
P. orientale morphine-free medicinal poppy.
(a/s/sp/1'-3'/fs) x x x
Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis
(p/c,d,s,t/sp/2'-4'/fs,pot) x x x x
Saffron Crocus sativus
(p/d/sp/12"-18"/fs,ps) x x
Sage Salvia officinales, several types including
dwarf, mammoth, purple, golden, and tricolor.
Others are: Pineapple S. elegans, Mexican
S. leucantha, scarlet S. splendens, and
Clary S. sclarea (a biennial).
(p/d,c,s,t/sp/1'-3'/fs) x x x
NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES
(cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED
Savory Satureja sp. About 180 species. Aromatic
herbs and shrubs, border or pot-herb plants.
Warm regions. Two main types: Summer savory,
Satureja hortensis an annual and Winter or
creeping winter savory Satureja montana a
perennial. An evergreen perennial used
mainly for tea is Satureja douglasii.
(a,p/s,c,t/sp/12"-18"/fs,pot) x x x
Sesame Sesamum indicum. (for warm areas only)
(a/s/sp/1'-3'/fs) x x
Spearmint (see "mint" above)
Tarragone, French Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa
Not winter-hardy. The related Russian
tarragon is more winter-hardy, but of
inferior quality.
(p/c/sp,fa/1'-2'/fs,pot) x
Thyme, common, English, French, garden
Thymus vulgaris. Over 300 species
and their hybrids such as lemon thyme
T. x citriodorus.
(p/s,t/sp/2"-12"/fs,ps) x x x x
thyme, creeping T. serpyllum
(p/s,t/sp/2"-4/fs) x x
Valerian, garden heliotrope Valeriana officinalis
(p/c,d,s,t/fa/3'-4'/fs) x x x x
Wintergreen Gaultheria procumbens
(p/c,d,s/sp/4"-6"/ps,pot) x x
Woodruff, sweet Galium odoratum
(p/t/6"-12"/ps) x x x x x
HERBS BY MAIL
Seed and/or plants of the above-mentioned herbs are available from one or more
of the companies listed:
Abundant Life Seed Foundation, Box 772, Port Townsend, WA 98368
W. Atlee Burpee Co. 300 Park Avenue, Warminster, PA 18974
Comstock, Ferre & Co. P O Box 125, 263 Main Street, Wethersfield, CT 06109
Gurney Seed & Nursery Co. 1448 Page Street, Yankton, SD 57079
Johnny's Selected Seeds, Albion, ME 04910
J. W. Jung Seed Co. 335 S. High Street, Box H81, Randolph, WI 53956
Nichols Garden Nursery, 1190 North Pacific Highway, Albany, OR 97321
George W. Park Seed Co. P O Box 31, 398 Cokesbury Rd. Greenwood, SC 29647
Redwood City Seed Co. P O Box 361, Redwood City, CA 94064
Taylor's Herb Gardens. 1535 Lone Oak Road, Vista, CA 92084. 619/727-3485
Thompson & Moran Inc. P O Box 100, Farmingdale, NJ 07727
PEST CONTROL FOR HERBS
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY.
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.
USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!
Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label.
Bathe or shower after each use.
Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).
Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.
WEED CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Weed Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper culti-
vation, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for
chemical weed control.
INSECT CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Insect Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects.
DISEASE CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Disease Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable sources
reduces risk from "seed born" diseases.
---------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------
This information was prepared by the Oregon State
University Extension Service from Oregon and
Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable
production guidelines from public institutions in
the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are intended
as a general guide for Oregon commercial vegetable
producers. Address comments or questions to your
County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S. Mansour,
Department of Horticulture, Oregon State University
Corvallis, OR 9733l
---------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------
Article 33034 of rec.gardens:
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From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullys Maze)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: LIST OF HUMMINGBIRD PLANTS
Date: 19 May 1994 15:23:28 -0700
Organization: Stanford University
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I finally found my plant list of things I used to grow from
Hummingbird gardens. This is not my huge catalog list but is a
pretty good reference of plants easy to grow that are good for
hummingbirds
PLANT LIST, SEPT. 1988
All 1 gal plants $5.00
Abelia floribunda MEXICAN ABELIA
Abutilon megapotamicum FLOWERING MAPLE
A. hybrids
Aloe species
Anigozanthus flavidus KANGAROO PAW
Aquilegia eximia SUMMER COLUMBINE
*Aquilegia formosa WESTERN COLUMBINE
Asclepias curravasica MILKWEED
Beloperone guttata SHRIMP PLANT
Bouvardia glaberrima SMOOTH BOUVARDIA
B. ternifolia SCARLET BOUVARDIA
Brunsfelsia nyctaginoides
Buddleia davidii BUTTERFLY BUSH
Campsis radicans TRUMPET VINE
Cestrum elegans
C. elegans smithii
Columnea species
Cuphea chileae
C. hyssopifolia
C. micropetala
C. minniata
C. platycentra
Dicliptera suberecta
*Diplacus auranticaus STICKY MONKKEY FLOWER
*Diplacus puniceus RED MONKEY FLOWER
Fuchsia arborescens
F. chang
F. encliandra
F. fanfare
F. lycioides
F. magellanica
F. magellanica molinae
F. serratifolia
F. thymifolia
F. 'tincta'
*Galvezia speciosa BUSH ISLAND SNAPDRAGON
Grevillia canberra
Grevillia constance
Grevillia Robyn Gordon
Heuchera sanguinea CORAL BELLS
*Ipmopsis aggregata SKYROCKET, SCARLET GILIA
*<.i+>California Native
Article 26702 of rec.gardens:
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From: HEIM@MACC.WISC.EDU (John Heim)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.birds
Subject: Landscaping for Wildlife (Shrubs & Vines)
Date: 16 Feb 1994 21:07:41 GMT
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Landscaping for Wildlife
Shrubs and Vines
Below is a report from a database I've been putting together of plants
useful in attracting wildlife to your yard. Right now I am working on
planting some shrubs and/or vines in my yard so that's all I've included
so far. Eventually I intend to add trees and both annual and perennial
non-woody plants.
Much of the information below is from documents sent to me by Christine
Quinn. Also very useful was Walter E. Shultz's book "How to Attract,
House and Feed Birds". Most of the information on growing these plants
is from the J.W. Jung Seed & Nursery Co. catalog and from "The Readers
Digest Complete Book of the Garden"
The prices listed below are from the Jung catalog unless otherwise noted.
I've included the price in my database primarily for my own benefit
because I intend to order from Jung this year. I've included it here
because I thought you might find it useful as well. I have no affiliation
with Jung but I have order from them a lot in the past and have always
been happy.
Any corrections or additions you might have will be appreciated.
Species: Arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Moist, w drain
Zones: 3+ Height: 6-8 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: JUN Berries: OCT Seeds:
Price: 4.95
Species attracted: Robin, bluebird, thrushes, catbird, vireo, flickers
Notes:
Species: Barberry, Japanese (Berberis thunbergii )
Location: Full sun Soil: Any
Zones: 4+ Height: 3-6 ft
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price: 7.95
Species attracted: Mockingbirds, waxwings, sparrows
Notes: Price is for 3 plants. "Thorns provide excellent cover and
nesting." - Shultz
Species: Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Sandy
Zones: 3+ Height:
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: 75 species
Notes: "Best food producer in Easter states." - Shultz
Species: Bittersweet (Celastrus loesneri )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Any
Zones: 3+ Height: 20 ft vine
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: AUG Berries: DEC Seeds:
Price: 4.55
Species attracted: Songbirds, gamebirds
Notes: Planting 2 or more will give better assurance of fruiting.
Species: Blackberry (Rubus species )
Location: Sun Soil: Well drained
Zones: 3+ Height: 4-6 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds:
Price: 5.95
Species attracted: 97 bird species
Notes: Price is for 3 plants.
Species: Blackhaw (Viburnum prunifolium )
Location: Sun, shade Soil: Moist
Zones: Height: 20 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: AUG Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Mockingbird, waxwings, thrushes
Notes:
Species: Blueberry (Vaccinium species )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Moist acid
Zones: 5+ Height: 2-6 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: MAY Berries: SEP Seeds:
Price: 5.95
Species attracted: Blubirds, thrushes, other songbirds
Notes: Some varieties hardy to zone 3.
Species: Buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica )
Location: Soil: Dry
Zones: Height: 12 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Grouse, pheasants, finches, thrashers, waxwings
Notes: "Good hedge" - Shultz
Species: Burning bush (Euonymus alata )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil:
Zones: 5+ Height: 4-5 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: DEC Seeds: YES
Price: 6.95
Species attracted: Songbirds, pheasants
Notes: Needs pruning for best results.
Species: Butterfly Bush (Buddleis davidii )
Location: Full sun Soil: Well drainded
Zones: 5+ Height: 2-8 ft
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: AUG Berries: NO Seeds:
Price: 4.95
Species attracted: Hummingbirds
Notes: Blue, pink or white flowers.
Species: Cardinal Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata )
Location: Soil:
Zones: 4+ Height: 8-10 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: SEP Seeds:
Price: 2.95
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes:
Species: Coralberry (Symphoricarpus doore )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil:
Zones: 5+ Height: 3-4 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price: 5.95
Species attracted: Songbirds, gamebirds
Notes:
Species: Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster species )
Location: Sun Soil: Well drainded
Zones: 3+ Height: 3-6 ft
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price: 5.95
Species attracted: Mockingbird, finches, and waxwings
Notes: Price is for 3 plants
Species: Cranberry, American (Viburnum trilobum )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Well drainded
Zones: 3+ Height: 8-10 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: MAY Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price: 5.95
Species attracted: Cardinals, waxwings, thrushes, finches, woodpeckers
Notes:
Species: Current, Red (Ribes species )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Any
Zones: 3+ Height: 2-3 ft
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: AUG Seeds:
Price: 3.95
Species attracted: Catbird, jays, magpie, and robins
Notes: Not compatable with white pine.
Species: Dogwood (Cornus sericea )
Location: Sun Soil: Moist, wet
Zones: 3+ Height: 6-8 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: AUG Berries: JAN Seeds:
Price: 4.25
Species attracted: Catbird, downy woodpecker, thrushes, and finches
Notes:
Species: Elderberry (Sambucus species )
Location: Sun shade Soil: Well drained
Zones: 3-9 Height: 6-8 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: AUG Berries: NOV Seeds:
Price: 6.95
Species attracted: 115 birds
Notes: Price is for 2 plants. One plant alone will not bear fruit.
Species: Firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea )
Location: Sun Soil: Well drained
Zones: Height:
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: SEP Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Waxwings, mockingbirds, and thrushes
Notes:
Species: Greenbrier ( )
Location: Soil:
Zones: Height:
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes:
Species: Holly, Inkberry (Ilex glabra )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Moist
Zones: 5+ Height: 10 ft vine
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Chickadee, titmouse, bobwhite, bluebird, robin,
catbird
Notes:
Species: Holly, Oregon Grape (Mahonia aquifolium )
Location: Shade Soil: Moist acid
Zones: 5+ Height: 4 ft vine
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: JUL Berries: SEP Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes: Not a true holly.
Species: Honeysuckle (Lonicera tatarica )
Location: Sun, part shade Soil: Any
Zones: 3+ Height: 8-10 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: MAY Berries: YES Seeds:
Price: 3.95
Species attracted: Hummingbirds, songbirds
Notes:
Species: Huckleberry, black ( )
Location: Soil:
Zones: Height:
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: JUL Berries: AUG Seeds:
Price: 1.10
Species attracted: Grosbeaks, towhees, bluebirds, robins, chickadees,
catbirds
Notes: Price is for seed packet.
Species: Juniper (Juniperus chimemsis )
Location: Sun Soil: Well drainded
Zones: 2+ Height: 2-10 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes: Dense foliage provides cover.
Species: Lilac (Syringa species )
Location: Full sun Soil: Neutral
Zones: 3+ Height: 10-15 ft
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: MAY Berries: NO Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Butterflies
Notes:
Species: Matrimony vine (Lycium halimifolium )
Location: Sun Soil: Any
Zones: Height: 10 ft vine
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: AUG Berries: DEC Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes: "Strong spines provide excellent cover" - Shultz
Species: Nannyberry (Viburnum lentago )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Any
Zones: 3+ Height: 25 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: YES Berries: YES Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Grouse, pheasants, songbirds
Notes: Suckers will form thickets.
Species: Pasture rose (Rosa carolina )
Location: Sun Soil: Any
Zones: 3+ Height: 3 ft
Cover: Nesting: Y
Flowers: AUG Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: 40 species
Notes: "Strong spines provide best possible protection." - Shultz
Species: Privet, Amur (Ligustrum amurense )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Not wet
Zones: 3+ Height: 6 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: YES Berries: YES Seeds:
Price: 9.95
Species attracted: Mockingbirds, waxwings, butterflies
Notes: Price is for 10 plants.
Species: Quince, flowering (Chaenomeles japonica )
Location: Sun, shade Soil: Well drainded
Zones: Height:
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: YES Berries: NO Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Hummingbirds
Notes:
Species: Raspberry (Red, Blk) (Rubus species )
Location: Full sun Soil: Any
Zones: 2+ Height: 4-6 ft
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: Berries: JUN Seeds:
Price: 6.50
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes: Price is for 5 plants. Will form dense thicket.
Species: Sand Cherry ( )
Location: Soil: Sandy
Zones: Height: 3 ft
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: JUL Berries: AUG Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes:
Species: Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadens )
Location: Sun, shade Soil: Any
Zones: 3-7 Height: 10-20 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: JUL Seeds:
Price: 5.98
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes: Price is from Henry Fields Seed Co.
Species: Snowberry (Symphoricarpos hybri )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil:
Zones: 4+ Height: 4-5 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: JUN Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price: 4.95
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes:
Species: Spirea, Blue Mist (Caryopteris incana )
Location: Full sun Soil: Any
Zones: Height:
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: YES Berries: NO Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Butterflies
Notes:
Species: Sumac, Cut Leaf (Rhus typhina )
Location: Soil: Any
Zones: 3+ Height: 8-10 ft
Cover: Y Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds:
Price: 5.95
Species attracted:
Notes:
Species: Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia )
Location: Soil:
Zones: Height:
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: Berries: AUG Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes: Also called American Ivy. "Perhaps best producer of natural food
for birds, plant wherever possible." - Shultz
Species: Winterberry (Ilex verticillata )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil:
Zones: Height: 10 ft vine
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds
Notes:
Species: Withe rod (Viburnum cassinoides )
Location: Sun, pt shade Soil:
Zones: Height:
Cover: Nesting:
Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds:
Price:
Species attracted: Songbirds (35 species)
Notes:
Species: Yew, Japanese (Taxus species )
Location: Sun, shade Soil: Well drainded
Zones: Height:
Cover: Y Nesting: Y
Flowers: Berries: NO Seeds: YES
Price:
Species attracted: Robin, mockingbird, sparrow
Notes:
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Latin pronounciation (was reading plant names)
Date: 21 Apr 93 20:37:59 -0600
Dr. K's guide to botanical Latin, with profuse apologies to Wm. T.Stearn,
from whom I cribbed a lot of it.
1. Latin words are divided into syllables. There is one vowel per
syllable, with the exception of diphthongs like ae, au, ei, eu, oi
and ui.
2. To determine where the accent falls in a word, you must divide it
into syllables. If there is a long vowel in the penult, (the next-
to-last syllable), the penult gets the accent. (au-STRA-lus, AL-bus).
3. If the penult has a short vowel, the accent goes on the syllable
before the penult, the antepenult. (FLO-ri-dus, la-ti-FO-li-a)
4. Diphthongs are treated as long vowels.
5. In Latin, if two vowels that do not form a diphthong come together,
the first vowel is short: CAR-ne-us, ME-di-us
6. In words of Greek origin, the opposite holds: gi-gan-TE-us.
7. Watch out for the -inus ending. The i is long in some cases, like
al-PIN-us, but short in others: se-RO-ti-nus. Words of Greek
derivation usually have the short i in an -inus ending.
8. Best way to find out where the accent belongs is to consult a
decent Latin dictionary, or a good flora like Gray's Manual.
If the stresses are indicated by a ` (grave), the syllable has
a short vowel. If the syllable is accented with a ' it has
a long vowel.
9. There are usually some minor accents earlier in the word if it
has a bunch of syllables: put them in reasonable places,
usually every other syllable.... rosmariniflorus is
rose'-mar-in'-i-FLOR-us.
10. You have your choice of pronounciations of letters. Stearn
gives "reformed academic" ("classical") and "traditional English"
which is next door to my church latin.
classical traditional
long a father fate
short a apart fat
ae as ai in aisle as ea in meat
au as ou in house as aw in bawl
c cat K before a, o, u (cat)
S before e, i, y (center)
ch in greek words as K or as k-h k or ch
long e they me
short e pet pet
ei rein height
g go G before a, o, u (go)
J before e, i, y (gem)
long i machine ice
short i pit pit
consonant i "y" as in yellow j
ng finger finger
long o note note
short o not not
oe as oi in toil as ee in bee
ph as p or p-h if possible f
r always trilled (how do you trill???)
s sit, gas sit, gas
t table, native t at beginning, but like
ti in nation in middle
long u brute brute
short u full tub
ui as the French "oui" ruin
v (consonant u) W V
long y u as in French pur as long i in cipher
short y as in French du as y in cynical
If you're a true "church latinist", "cie" is "ch", not "s" or "k"
Now, as to pronouncing names that are stolen from other languages or
were once peoples' names, you're kinda on your own. Try to get it
to an approximation of the original language OR try to come up with
something that doesn't land with a dull thud on the ear.
"Warszeiczella" can be rendered "var-she-vi-CHEL-la".
One other problem. -ii or -iae endings can be tricky, since
if you apply the penult/antepenult rule, you need to put the
accent on the last syllable of the latinized personal name, which is
usually where it doesn't belong. So people cut some slack on that
rule when dealing with -ii and -iae endings.
Finally, words of wisdom from Stearn:
"Botanical Latin is essentially a written language, but the scientific
names of plants often occur in speech. How they are pronounced really
matters little provided they sound pleasant and are understood by all
concerned..."
Ah-men! Dona nobis pacem! (at least on this topic!)
Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI
.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Latin pronounciation (was reading plant names)
Date: 21 Apr 93 20:37:59 -0600
Dr. K's guide to botanical Latin, with profuse apologies to Wm. T.Stearn,
from whom I cribbed a lot of it.
1. Latin words are divided into syllables. There is one vowel per
syllable, with the exception of diphthongs like ae, au, ei, eu, oi
and ui.
2. To determine where the accent falls in a word, you must divide it
into syllables. If there is a long vowel in the penult, (the next-
to-last syllable), the penult gets the accent. (au-STRA-lus, AL-bus).
3. If the penult has a short vowel, the accent goes on the syllable
before the penult, the antepenult. (FLO-ri-dus, la-ti-FO-li-a)
4. Diphthongs are treated as long vowels.
5. In Latin, if two vowels that do not form a diphthong come together,
the first vowel is short: CAR-ne-us, ME-di-us
6. In words of Greek origin, the opposite holds: gi-gan-TE-us.
7. Watch out for the -inus ending. The i is long in some cases, like
al-PIN-us, but short in others: se-RO-ti-nus. Words of Greek
derivation usually have the short i in an -inus ending.
8. Best way to find out where the accent belongs is to consult a
decent Latin dictionary, or a good flora like Gray's Manual.
If the stresses are indicated by a ` (grave), the syllable has
a short vowel. If the syllable is accented with a ' it has
a long vowel.
9. There are usually some minor accents earlier in the word if it
has a bunch of syllables: put them in reasonable places,
usually every other syllable.... rosmariniflorus is
rose'-mar-in'-i-FLOR-us.
10. You have your choice of pronounciations of letters. Stearn
gives "reformed academic" ("classical") and "traditional English"
which is next door to my church latin.
classical traditional
long a father fate
short a apart fat
ae as ai in aisle as ea in meat
au as ou in house as aw in bawl
c cat K before a, o, u (cat)
S before e, i, y (center)
ch in greek words as K or as k-h k or ch
long e they me
short e pet pet
ei rein height
g go G before a, o, u (go)
J before e, i, y (gem)
long i machine ice
short i pit pit
consonant i "y" as in yellow j
ng finger finger
long o note note
short o not not
oe as oi in toil as ee in bee
ph as p or p-h if possible f
r always trilled (how do you trill???)
s sit, gas sit, gas
t table, native t at beginning, but like
ti in nation in middle
long u brute brute
short u full tub
ui as the French "oui" ruin
v (consonant u) W V
long y u as in French pur as long i in cipher
short y as in French du as y in cynical
If you're a true "church latinist", "cie" is "ch", not "s" or "k"
Now, as to pronouncing names that are stolen from other languages or
were once peoples' names, you're kinda on your own. Try to get it
to an approximation of the original language OR try to come up with
something that doesn't land with a dull thud on the ear.
"Warszeiczella" can be rendered "var-she-vi-CHEL-la".
One other problem. -ii or -iae endings can be tricky, since
if you apply the penult/antepenult rule, you need to put the
accent on the last syllable of the latinized personal name, which is
usually where it doesn't belong. So people cut some slack on that
rule when dealing with -ii and -iae endings.
Finally, words of wisdom from Stearn:
"Botanical Latin is essentially a written language, but the scientific
names of plants often occur in speech. How they are pronounced really
matters little provided they sound pleasant and are understood by all
concerned..."
Ah-men! Dona nobis pacem! (at least on this topic!)
Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI
. 6 .. archives Q, .cap INDEX X richters `[ pictures l programs _ faqs ~4 incoming SWSBM "C
Marco_Bleeker p Howie_Brounstein + Fragrant_Garden database 7
neat_stuff README allfiles.txt
readme.txt . .. pond.faq fertilizer.faq tomato-problem.faq From dragon@csulb.eduSun Apr 9 21:51:22 1995
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 13:46:10 -0800
From: Brian Lo <dragon@csulb.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ: Okra
OKRA
Abelmoschus esculentus
Okra is not well adapted to Oregon climatic conditions, requiring high
soil temperatures and high day and night temperatures for best production.
Okra may be grown in the warmer parts of the state when special efforts are
made to provide the proper environmental conditions. This would include the
use of plastic mulch and wind breaks to improve temperatures around the plant
and in the soil.
VARIETIES
Green types:
Blondy, 48-50 days, dwarf plant 3'high, spineless, ribbed, lime-green.
Annie Oakley, 52 days, plants 3-4'tall. Prelude, 52 days, plants 3-4'tall.
Clemson Spineless, 55 days, plants 5' tall, pods 5-6"long, large diameter,
most commonly available variety. Emerald, 55 days, plants 5' tall, pods to
8"long, small diameter. Perkins Mammoth Long Pod, 60 days, plants 6 to 10'
tall, pods 7-8" long, intense green.
Red types:
Red Okra; 55 to 65 days, 3 to 4 feet tall, bushy plants with 6 to 7"
pods. Red Velvet; similar to Red Okra.
SEED COMPANIES
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
La Marche Seeds International, POB 190, Dixon, CA 95620
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
SOIL
Well drained, sandy soils are preferred. Addition of manure or other
organic material is usually beneficial on such light textured soils. Okra
grows best in neutral to slightly alkaline soils, pH 6.5-7.5.
TEMPERATURE REQUIREMENTS
Okra is a tropical plant requiring warm growing conditions. Commercial
production is recommended only in the warmest portions of the state. Night
temperatures should be above 55 F for good growth.
Minimum soil temperature for germination is 60 F. Optimum soil tempera-
ture range is 75-90 F.
PLASTIC ROW COVERS AND MULCHES
Black plastic mulch will increase soil temperatures, control weeds, and
conserve moisture, increasing yield and earliness. A new generation of plastic
mulch films allows for good weed control together with soil warming that is
intermediate between black plastic and clear film. These films are called IRT
(infra-red transmitting) films. They are more expensive than black or clear
films, but may be cost-effective where soil warming is important.
Spun bonded polyester and polypropylene, and perforated polyethylene row
covers may be used for 4-8 weeks immediately after transplanting. Covers
should be removed when plants begin to flower to permit proper pollination.
Row covers can increase heat unit accumulation by 2-3 times over ambient. Up
to 4 F of frost protection may also be obtained at night. Soil temperatures
and root growth can also be increased under row covers as are early yields,
and in some cases total yields.
SEEDING
Okra seed numbers approximately 8,000 per pound. Use approximately 8-12
lbs. seed/acre. Plant 1" deep, 4-6 seeds/foot of row. Thin to desired spa-
cing when plants are 3" tall.
Germination many be enhanced by soaking seeds several (4-6 hours) hours
or overnight immediately before planting. The seed will need to be surface
dried for mechanical planting.
SPACING
Rows 36-48" apart, 12-24" between plants. Tall or spiny cultivars
require wide spacing.
TRANSPLANTING
Growers interested in early fresh market or in short growing season
areas may find it profitable to transplant. Sow seeds in 2" pots or cell
packs, 3 seeds per pot, 1/4" deep, 4-5 weeks ahead of transplanting. Thin to
1 plant per pot or cell.
FERTILIZER
The following are general recommendations. Before planting apply:
Nitrogen: 30-50 lb./acre applied at planting. Side dress with an
additional 35-50 lbs. N/acre when plants are 8-10" tall, or use 25 lb./acre
nitrogen after first fruit set and again after 4-6 weeks at the same rate.
Adequate nitrogen is necessary to ensure a long harvest period, however
excessive rates are to be avoided as they can cause okra to become excessively
vegetative.
Phosphorus: 50-100 lbs./acre, all applied at, or before planting.
IRRIGATION
Okra requires adequate soil moisture throughout its entire growing
period if optimum growth and yield are to be obtained. Avoid heavy early
irrigations as these can cool the soil and slow development.
HARVESTING, HANDLING AND STORAGE
Okra pods should be harvested while still tender and before the seeds
are half grown. This is usually 5-6 days after flowering. Pods with tips
that will bend between the fingers without breaking are too tough for use as
fresh fruit. Consumer preference demands pods 2 1/2"-3 1/2" in length. Okra
should be harvested about 3 times each week. Regular picking increases yield.
Remove and discard old pods from the plant as such pods will retard pod set
and reduce total yield. Under good conditions 300 to 400 lbs. might be
obtained per picking per acre. In the warmer, longer season areas of Oregon
(the Columbia and Snake River areas) okra might be harvested over a 50 to 60
day season.
Okra plants and pods may have small spines to which some people are
allergic. Pickers should wear gloves and long sleeved shirts as skin protec-
tion.
STORAGE (quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook # 66):
Hold okra at 45 to 50 F and 90 to 95 % relative humidity. Okra deter-
iorates rapidly and is normally stored only briefly to hold for marketing or
processing. Large quantities are canned, frozen or brined. It has a very
high respiration rate at warm temperatures and should therefore be promptly
cooled to retard heating and subsequent deterioration.
Okra in good condition can be stored satisfactorily for 7 to 10 days at
45 to 50 F. At higher temperatures toughening, yellowing, and decay are
rapid. A relative humidity of 90 to 95 % is desirable to prevent shriveling.
At temperatures below 45 F okra is subject to chilling injury, which is
manifested by surface discoloration, pitting, and decay. Holding okra for 3
days at 32 F may cause sever pitting. Contact or to ice will cause water
spotting in 2 or 3 days.
Fresh okra bruises easily, the bruises blackening within a few hours. A
bleaching type of injury may also develop when okra is held in hampers for
more than 24 hours without refrigeration. Storage containers should permit
ventilation.
Prepackaging in perforated film is helpful. both to prevent wilting and
physical injury during handling. Results of a packaging study suggest that 5
to 10 % carbon dioxide in the atmosphere lengthens shelf life by about a week.
Higher concentrations of carbon dioxide caused off-flavors.
PACKAGING
Okra is shipped in bushel hampers or crates, holding 30 lb. net; 5/9
bushel crates, 18 lb. net; 12 quart baskets, 15-18 lb. net; or loose pack in
cartons or LA. lugs, 18 lb. net.
PEST CONTROL FOR OKRA
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY.
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.
USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!
Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label.
Bathe or shower after each use.
Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).
Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.
WEED CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Weed Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper culti-
vation, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for
chemical weed control.
INSECT CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Insect Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects.
DISEASE CONTROL
The Pacific Northwest Disease Control Handbook has no control entries for
this crop.
Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable sources
reduces risk from "seed born" diseases.
Use spacings and irrigations practices that minimize diseases and allow
for cultivation. Choose fields free of perennial weeds and where related
crops have not been grown for the previous three years to minimize problems
with diseases and weeds.
--------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------
This information was adapted by the Oregon State
University Extension Service from Oregon and
Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable
production guidelines from public institutions
in the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are
intended as a general guide for Oregon commercial
vegetable producers. Address comments or questions
to your County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S. Mansour
Department of Horticulture, Oregon State University
Corvallis, OR 9733l.
--------------------------------------------------
Subject: Old Roses
Date: 30 Mar 92 16:57:07 GMT
Here is a list of some of the main old rose varieties. I will follow it
up with a selection of roses from each group.
Species Roses
These plants are the ancestors of all of the roses. Species refers
to the plants as they have been found in the wild, un-changed and
un-hybridized. For the most part, species roses are single
petalled, and some are semi-double. The different varieties come
in yellow, pink, rose madder red, and white. They are also very
LARGE bushes, growing up to 50 feet or more. The Lady Banks rose
is an example of a species rose. Most of them only bloom once a
year.
Gallicas
The flowers of the gallicas are usually flat and fully double, the
bushes have few thorns, and they are easy to raise from seed. The
town of Provins, France, was for 600 years the center of a great
rose industry based on _R. gallica officinalis_ (Red Rose of
Lancaster) and some of its forms. This rose was believed to have
medicinal properties. The Empress Josephine collected gallica
roses for her garden in Malmaisson. Some of the roses in this
family date back to the 12th and 13th centurys. Most of them are
shades of rose madder and pink, and bloom only once in a season.
Damasks
This is the first old rose family to have ever-blooming flowers.
It is possible that this rose was brought to Europe by the Greek
traders in the main ports of the Mediterrainian between 800 and 600
B.C. The flowers are usually fully double, flowering in summer,
and then again in fall. They are said to be repeat bloomers,
instead of ever blooming. Their parentage is unknown, but it is
believed that they come from a cross of Rosa gallica and an
everblooming Asian species. An example of this rose family is
Autumn Damask, or "Quatre Saisons". The petals of this rose were
scattered under the feet of the Roman Emperors as they walked along
in public.
Centifolias
Centifolia means 'hundred petals', and these roses are the most
fully double of them all. The roses are very full, and the petals
divide into quarters within the flower. This rose dates back to
bout 410 B.C. These roses make good climbers. Most of the
centifolias bloom only once in spring.
Mosses
This large family of roses are called mosses because their stems
have thousands of tiny thorns on them, and even the flower bracts
are 'mossy' with thorns. The flowers are usually double, and bloom
in the spring. We had a moss rose, and the flowers were the most
intense pink/purple I have ever seen on any rose. It was beautful.
Portland
Developed in the middle of the 19th century, this rose family has
mostly ever-blooming or perpetual blooming roses. The first family
was produced in England at about 1800. The rose was named Duchess
of Portland, hence the name Portland roses. A good Portland rose
is Comte de Chambourd.
Bourbons
These roses came from a natural cross of a China rose and a damask
rose. The bushes are compact and the roses are fewer, but much
better flowers in the fall than the other rose families. This is
personally my favorite group of old roses. The flowers are very
double and globular shaped. They have a beautiful bloom in the
fall, and won't quit blooming until the frost kills them. Some
examples are Honorine de Brabant, La Reine Victoria, Madamme Isaac
Periere, and Souvenir de la Malmaison.
China Roses
It was with the introduction of the China roses to Europe that true
ever-blooming roses were developed. Portlands, Bourbons, and
perhaps even Damasks were produced by crossing them with China
roses. Although not very popular in the garden, these roses are
very important to the history of rose culture.
Some Available Old Roses
Species Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rosa Foetida single petals yellow
Rosa foetida Persiana double flowers yellow
Rose foetida bicolor single orange
Mrs. Colville single red
Rosa pimpinellifolia "double white double flowers white
Rosa canina single pink
Kiftsgate single, rambler white
Alba Roses
^^^^^^^^^^
Great Maiden's Blush fully double blush pink
Jeanne d'Arc fully double white
Rosa alba 'semiplena' semi-double white
Felicite Parmentier double pale pink
Gallica Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rosa gallica semi-double rose madder
Rosa gallica versicolor double rose/white striped
Charles de Mills full double deep pink
Tuscany Superb full double fuchsia
Georges Vibert full double striped
Damask Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rose de Rescht full double rose madder
Celsiana double pale pink
Madamme Hardy double white
Pink Leda double medium pink
Duchess de Montebello double palest pink
Leda double white/pink edges
Comte de Chambord double pink/lilac
Bourbon Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Honorine de Brabant double striped/lilac/white
Madame Isaac Pereire fully double rose madder
La Reine Victoria double, cupped med. pink
Boule de Neige double white
Madame Pierre Oger double pale pink
Souvenir de al Malmaison double/flat flesh pink
Ferdinand Pichard double red/white striped
Reine des Violettes double purple
Moss Roses
^^^^^^^^^^
General Kleber double palest pink
Shailer's White Moss double white
William Lobb double lilac
Centifolia Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Tour de Malkoff double deep fushcia
Chapeau de Napoleon double pink
De Meaux double pale pink
Hybrid Musk Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Cornelia semi double pink
Ballerina single whtie & pink
Penelope semi double pale yellow
Nymphenburg semi double apricot pink
Rugosa Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Blanc Double de Coubert double white
Topaz Jewel double yellow
Reseraie de l'Hay doulbe med. pink
Linda Campbell double red
Alba single white
Fru Dagmar Hastrup single pink
Hansa double deep deep pink
Many of these may be found in Wayside Rose Catalog. Also, check your better
nurseries. Old roses are beginning to show up. I just found a good
speciman of "Souvenir de la Malmaison" for $7!!!!! What a find!
Re: Favorite Old Roses, Climbing Roses (rec.gardens)
Date: 5 Mar 92 18:24:28 GMT
I have just planted two old climbing roses I am very excited about -
SOMBREUIL: a tea rose, "capable of reaching great heights in a
sheltered garden," and whose "fragrance, shiny dark green foliage,
and spectacular creamy white flowers make this one of the most
beautiful and useful of all roses."
ZE'PHIRIN DROUHIN: a semi-double pink Bourbon, popular because the
canes are (really!) thornless.
Both of these are popular in the South, so should do well in the
Central Valley, but may be too tender for northern gardens. Also,
DORTMUND: a single red flower with white eye, said to have holly-
like foliage and good heat tolerance. I'd try it if I had more room.
All are highly rated and fairly disease resistant, though ZD may be
subject to mildew. The first two are available from Smith & Hawken,
the other is stocked by Berkeley Horticultural or try the usual suspects
(I can provide a list of old rose nurseries, if there is any demand.)
rec.gardens:
Subject: Re: Climbing Roses
Date: 6 Mar 92 01:21:20 GMT
>I'm looking for a good (actually I would love a *great*) climbing rose and
>was wonderingif anyone out there has a favorite variety
(You *do* know that no roses actually climb, like ivy, but some just throw
out extra-long canes ...)
Rosa moschata, R. moschata semiplena
Musk roses species, with single or fluffy semi-double blossoms respectively.
Grows to 50' if you let it. One longish blooming season in NJ, may be longer
out here (in Sac). Flowers are white. Scent is amazing.
Alchymist (occasionally Alchemist)
Buff yellow very full and quartered blossoms, with more or less pink in them
depending on how cold it is during bud formation. I'd expect no pink out
here. Grows to 20' in NJ that I've seen. Very long blooming season but not
quite "recurrent". Nice scent but not overpowering.
Rosa glauca (was R. rubrifolia)
Species rose listed as stopping at 8', but there is/was a specimen in WI that
stopped growing *up* at about 12' and thenceforth grew out, maybe 20' total.
No scent. Flowers are a pretty pink, single, narrowish petals so the blossom
is kind of star-shaped. Yellow stamens. The leaves are steel-blue with red
edging, and the stems and canes are claret. Flowering season is short, but
you don't grow it for the flowers.
Applejack
Grows to 10' or so. Recurrent. Single pretty pink flowers, with fatter
petals than R. glauca, so that it looks like a rose, not like a star. Flower
is unscented but foliage smells of apples. Drops petals neatly so the bush
is always pretty. This one is kind of hard to find, but is a real sweetheart.
La Belle Sultane
Grows to 10' or so. Medium blooming season. Single purple blossoms, shading
to lighter crimson inward, with bright yellow stamens. Nothing else remotely
like her, and a beauty.
If you'd like to see R. glauca, Alchymist, or La Belle Sultane, contact me
this summer or next year: I'm planting all three weekend after next, UPS
permitting. ;0)
Subject: Re: Old Roses
Date: 10 Jan 92 20:27:49 GMT
TK> >>There's a rose source in Texas that grows the old roses
TK> >>onto their own root system.
ANTIQUE ROSE EMPORIUM
Route 5, Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
telephone: (409) 836-9051
They offer a color/b&w catalog for $2.00, containing a broad selection of
old garden roses, each well described, with a good deal of historical and
cultural information. Roses are grown on their own roots, selectedd for
fragrance and long bloom in Zones 6 and above. They also offer books for
rosarians. The minimum order is $10 and they also will ship to Canada.
rec.gardens:
Subject: Re: Old Roses
Date: 11 Jan 92 06:10:40 GMT
The catalog ($3) from
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
24062 Riverside Dr NE
St. Paul, OR 97137
comes highly recommended. I'm just sending away for mine, so I haven't seen
it yet, but one hardcore antique rose freak I know said he almost died when
he got his. He's not impressed easily.
Subject: Re: Antique Roses
Date: 27 Jan 92 22:37:15 GMT
I purchased the bare-root plants by mail-order from:
ROSES OF YESTERDAY & TODAY
802 Brown's Valley Road
Watsonville, CA 95076-0398
(408) 724-3537 or 2755
The informative catalog is $3 and describes the plants very well. However,
they will only mail the plants between the 1st of January until the end of
May. NOTE: When I purchased roses from them, they were all grafted onto
various rootstocks. Their is a mail-order source that sells UNGRAFTED
bare-root antique roses. It is:
ANTIQUE ROSE EMPORIUM
Route 5, Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
(409) 836-9051
Their catalog is $2 and they also ship only from Jan. 1 to May 30. ALL
roses are grown on their own roots, selected for fragrance and long bloom
in Zone 6 and above.
Today, I learned of two additional sources for Old Garden Roses. They are:
VINTAGE GARDENS
3003 Pleasant Hill Road
Sebastapol, CA 95472
(1992 catalog - $1; 1993 catalog - $2)
and
HEIRLOOM OLD GARDEN ROSES
24062 N.E. Riverside
St. Paul, OR 97137
catalog - $3
Subject: Re: Antique Roses
Date: 29 Jan 92 19:05:34 GMT
(With Pickering's 1991-2 catalog at my elbow ...)
A number of old-fashioned roses do bloom recurrently. "Recurrently" is a
slightly strange word in the rose world. A "non-recurrent bloomer" blooms
for a month or two in June and July. A "recurrent bloomer" blooms then and
also at other times during the season. This may range from the February-to-
November bloomers to a rose, whose main season bloom having been religiously
dead-headed (the spent blooms cut off before they can make hips), will spit
out a couple more blooms in September or so. Bearing that definition in
mind, here's a quick survey of old-fashioned roses, with notes of *my* parti-
cular favorites:
Polyanthas originated about 1875. They are parents of the mini-roses. Most
are low growing, have large clusters of individual smallish blooms, and are
recurrent. I don't have any personal experience with these. The Fairy is
an extremely popular variety, blooming continuously with shell-pink flowers.
You might even be able to get The Fairy at local nurseries.
Hybrid Perpetuals originated about 1840. As their name implies, they are
among the first recurrent varieties. Their blossom production tends to be
a tad spotty after the initial flush. Mabel Morrison has an upright habit
and opaque white gardenia-like roses on extremely short stems. The blossoms
sit right in the leaves. Depending on the temperature at a crucial time in
the bud formation, some blossoms might be very lightly flushed with pink,
which results in a bush with some white roses and some very very pale pink
roses, or even a rose with a few very pale pink streaks in the whiteness.
Unfortunately, she has no scent.
Shrub roses don't fit any category very well, and many are quite modern
(which is why I use the term "old-fashioned" instead of "antique"). Many
are recurrent. Alchymist is listed as growing to 6', but every one I've
grown has had no problem sending canes out several yards. Depending on the
climate, the blossoms may be an antique gold or have pink-peach highlights
(the colder the winter, the more colorful the flower). The individual blooms
are enormous and quite fragrant. It is listed as non-recurrent, but in NJ
its season was close to three months.
Rosa rugosa is a species native to Japan, and many attractive hybrids are
mostly R. rugosa. The outstanding characteristics are coarse, heavily
"quilted" leaves, large, attractive hips, extreme winter hardiness, resis-
tance to disease, abundant thorns, continuous bloom, and tolerance of salt
(for beachside gardens). Dr. Eckener compares favorably with Alchymist in
vigor of growth. The blossoms are zoned yellow and bright pink, and are
semi-double (8-20 or so petals). Dr. E. is quite fragrant, and has truly
awesome thorns. Frau Dagmar Hartopp is a gem -- single, silky silver-pink
blossoms, and relatively low growing.
Alba roses are true antiques: Alba maxima was known in 1450. They are all
non-recurrent. They have bluish-grey leaves and the blossoms are either
white or pale pink. They are also winter hardy and fragrant. Madame Legras
de St. Germain has small white blossoms with just a hint of lemon well in-
side. She grows rather low and is literally smothered in blossoms in June
and July. The blossom petals are tiny and very abundant, and toss scent off
in buckets.
Bourbon roses were created accidentally as a cross between one of the
antiques (I forget which) and Rosa chinensis, which had just been imported
from (guess) China. R. chinensis is very tender, and some Bourbons are also
rather tender, needing the cosseting one has to give to hybrid teas. How-
ever, they have enough more of their antique genes to resist disease much
better than the H.T.'s. Some are recurrent, some not. I haven't grown any
of these yet, not having lived in a place before now where I wouldn't have
to baby them. But this year ...!
Centifolia roses are the big "cabbage" roses you see on old wallpaper. They
are very winter hardy, not recurrent, and extremely fragrant. The ones that
Pickering lists range from light to dark pink and mauve to scarlet and dark
purple. For some reason I haven't grown any of these either -- quite a gap!
Rosa chinensis varieties are quite tender, but recurrent. They tend to be
martyrs to black spot. Also, R. chinensis has contributed yellow to the
rose palette. As with the Bourbons, until this year I haven't lived where
I could grow these easily, so have no experience with them. Tipo Ideale,
also called Rosa Mutabilis, blooms pale yellow, and as the blossom ages, the
color darkens through orange to dark red. I've seen this rose in public
gardens and it is spectacular. I imagine the climber Joseph's Coat, whose
blossoms go through the same changes, has lots of the Rosa Mutabilis genes
in it. Archduke Charles blooms white, and the blossoms darken through pink
to a purplish red. A blooming bush of Charles is also quite stunning, and I
love to see someone else growing it. :o) The "Green Rose", Rosa chinensis
viridiflora, does not have real petals: the flower bracts are extended and
form green and brown blossom-like growths. I haven't seen this in person but
[rest of message missing]
Subject: Re: Old Roses
Date: 10 Jan 92 20:27:49 GMT
TK> >>There's a rose source in Texas that grows the old roses
TK> >>onto their own root system.
ANTIQUE ROSE EMPORIUM
Route 5, Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
telephone: (409) 836-9051
They offer a color/b&w catalog for $2.00, containing a broad selection of
old garden roses, each well described, with a good deal of historical and
cultural information. Roses are grown on their own roots, selectedd for
fragrance and long bloom in Zones 6 and above. They also offer books for
rosarians. The minimum order is $10 and they also will ship to Canada.
Subject: Re: Old Roses
Date: 11 Jan 92 06:10:40 GMT
The catalog ($3) from
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
24062 Riverside Dr NE
St. Paul, OR 97137
comes highly recommended. I'm just sending away for mine, so I haven't seen
it yet, but one hardcore antique rose freak I know said he almost died when
he got his. He's not impressed easily.
Subject: Re: Antique Roses
Date: 27 Jan 92 22:37:15 GMT
I purchased the bare-root plants by mail-order from:
ROSES OF YESTERDAY & TODAY
802 Brown's Valley Road
Watsonville, CA 95076-0398
(408) 724-3537 or 2755
The informative catalog is $3 and describes the plants very well. However,
they will only mail the plants between the 1st of January until the end of
May. NOTE: When I purchased roses from them, they were all grafted onto
various rootstocks. Their is a mail-order source that sells UNGRAFTED
bare-root antique roses. It is:
ANTIQUE ROSE EMPORIUM
Route 5, Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
(409) 836-9051
Their catalog is $2 and they also ship only from Jan. 1 to May 30. ALL
roses are grown on their own roots, selected for fragrance and long bloom
in Zone 6 and above.
Today, I learned of two additional sources for Old Garden Roses. They are:
VINTAGE GARDENS
3003 Pleasant Hill Road
Sebastapol, CA 95472
(1992 catalog - $1; 1993 catalog - $2)
and
HEIRLOOM OLD GARDEN ROSES
24062 N.E. Riverside
St. Paul, OR 97137
catalog - $3
Subject: Re: Antique Roses
Date: 29 Jan 92 19:05:34 GMT
(With Pickering's 1991-2 catalog at my elbow ...)
A number of old-fashioned roses do bloom recurrently. "Recurrently" is a
slightly strange word in the rose world. A "non-recurrent bloomer" blooms
for a month or two in June and July. A "recurrent bloomer" blooms then and
also at other times during the season. This may range from the February-to-
November bloomers to a rose, whose main season bloom having been religiously
dead-headed (the spent blooms cut off before they can make hips), will spit
out a couple more blooms in September or so. Bearing that definition in
mind, here's a quick survey of old-fashioned roses, with notes of *my* parti-
cular favorites:
Polyanthas originated about 1875. They are parents of the mini-roses. Most
are low growing, have large clusters of individual smallish blooms, and are
recurrent. I don't have any personal experience with these. The Fairy is
an extremely popular variety, blooming continuously with shell-pink flowers.
You might even be able to get The Fairy at local nurseries.
Hybrid Perpetuals originated about 1840. As their name implies, they are
among the first recurrent varieties. Their blossom production tends to be
a tad spotty after the initial flush. Mabel Morrison has an upright habit
and opaque white gardenia-like roses on extremely short stems. The blossoms
sit right in the leaves. Depending on the temperature at a crucial time in
the bud formation, some blossoms might be very lightly flushed with pink,
which results in a bush with some white roses and some very very pale pink
roses, or even a rose with a few very pale pink streaks in the whiteness.
Unfortunately, she has no scent.
Shrub roses don't fit any category very well, and many are quite modern
(which is why I use the term "old-fashioned" instead of "antique"). Many
are recurrent. Alchymist is listed as growing to 6', but every one I've
grown has had no problem sending canes out several yards. Depending on the
climate, the blossoms may be an antique gold or have pink-peach highlights
(the colder the winter, the more colorful the flower). The individual blooms
are enormous and quite fragrant. It is listed as non-recurrent, but in NJ
its season was close to three months.
Rosa rugosa is a species native to Japan, and many attractive hybrids are
mostly R. rugosa. The outstanding characteristics are coarse, heavily
"quilted" leaves, large, attractive hips, extreme winter hardiness, resis-
tance to disease, abundant thorns, continuous bloom, and tolerance of salt
(for beachside gardens). Dr. Eckener compares favorably with Alchymist in
vigor of growth. The blossoms are zoned yellow and bright pink, and are
semi-double (8-20 or so petals). Dr. E. is quite fragrant, and has truly
awesome thorns. Frau Dagmar Hartopp is a gem -- single, silky silver-pink
blossoms, and relatively low growing.
Alba roses are true antiques: Alba maxima was known in 1450. They are all
non-recurrent. They have bluish-grey leaves and the blossoms are either
white or pale pink. They are also winter hardy and fragrant. Madame Legras
de St. Germain has small white blossoms with just a hint of lemon well in-
side. She grows rather low and is literally smothered in blossoms in June
and July. The blossom petals are tiny and very abundant, and toss scent off
in buckets.
Bourbon roses were created accidentally as a cross between one of the
antiques (I forget which) and Rosa chinensis, which had just been imported
from (guess) China. R. chinensis is very tender, and some Bourbons are also
rather tender, needing the cosseting one has to give to hybrid teas. How-
ever, they have enough more of their antique genes to resist disease much
better than the H.T.'s. Some are recurrent, some not. I haven't grown any
of these yet, not having lived in a place before now where I wouldn't have
to baby them. But this year ...!
Centifolia roses are the big "cabbage" roses you see on old wallpaper. They
are very winter hardy, not recurrent, and extremely fragrant. The ones that
Pickering lists range from light to dark pink and mauve to scarlet and dark
purple. For some reason I haven't grown any of these either -- quite a gap!
Rosa chinensis varieties are quite tender, but recurrent. They tend to be
martyrs to black spot. Also, R. chinensis has contributed yellow to the
rose palette. As with the Bourbons, until this year I haven't lived where
I could grow these easily, so have no experience with them. Tipo Ideale,
also called Rosa Mutabilis, blooms pale yellow, and as the blossom ages, the
color darkens through orange to dark red. I've seen this rose in public
gardens and it is spectacular. I imagine the climber Joseph's Coat, whose
blossoms go through the same changes, has lots of the Rosa Mutabilis genes
in it. Archduke Charles blooms white, and the blossoms darken through pink
to a purplish red. A blooming bush of Charles is also quite stunning, and I
love to see someone else growing it. :o) The "Green Rose", Rosa chinensis
viridiflora, does not have real petals: the flower bracts are extended and
form green and brown blossom-like growths. I haven't seen this in person but
[rest of message missing]
Re: Favorite Old Roses
I thought I would talk about some of my favorite old roses (and a few
'new' ones). Many people ask me about them, and I will talk about the
ones I know about first-hand. All of these roses grew for me or my
mother, and I helped in keeping them healthy and happy.
First of all, let me tell you that I do not have a "rose garden" per se.
My roses live in the flower border with other perennials and annuals
planted in and around them. My aim is to grow a "perennial border" like
Christopher Lloyd, (my gardening hero), but so far it's a far cry from
Great Dixter.
1) Duchess de Brabant: Tea rose from 1857. Medium pink flowers,
cupped and free flowering. Flowers continuously, with it's best
bloom in the fall. The foliage is deep green with red undersides
on the leaves. This rose is my absolute favorite over all others,
and that is not an easy judgement to make. She grows well in full
sun, but is sensitive to freezing weather. My bush died down to
the ground this year, but it is coming back full swing, and already
has two buds!
2) La Reine Victoria: Bourbon rose, 1872. Lilac-pink blooms that
form perfect cups, even when fully open. Blooms continously. The
foliage is light green, and the bush is tall and slender, about
5 ft tall and 3 ft wide. My poor bush has seen a lot of wear and
tear. When it was rather large, I pruned it heavily and moved it
from my mothers garden to mine. She didn't bloom last year, and I
don't blame her for it. I moved her again this February to a
sunnier location, and she is growing vigorously right now.
3) Honorine de Brabant: Bourbon Rose, date unknown. This is one of
the old striped roses. The flowers are shades of pink and lilac
with purple markings on a large cupped flower. One of the few
striped roses to bloom continously. The plant is vigorous, with
few thorns. Foliage medium green and lush. My plant was brand new
last year but it grew very well.
4) Rose de Rescht: Portland rose, date unknown, discovered by Miss
Nancy Lindsay. Flowers are a rich fuchsia-red color and are
tightly formed into a perfect rosette, fully double. This rose has
the most regular and perfect blooms I've seen so far. It is a
small bush, medium green foliage, and it blooms all season long.
5) Rosa gallica versicolor (Rosa Mundi), Gallica rose of great
antiquity (over 500 years old). This rose is striped, semi-double
with deep rose madder red and white stripes. When it is in full
bloom, the bush looks like a huge peppermint bush! The bush is
very hardy and very lush. It blooms only in the spring, then the
foliage starts look poorly. Subject to blackspot -- but the spring
bloom is worth it all! I plant it among my other flowers so that
when the bloom is over, the bush is not an eyesore.
Re: Favorite Old Roses, Climbing Roses (from Usenet, rec.gardens)
Subject: Re: Climbing Roses
Date: 5 Mar 92 18:24:28 GMT
I have just planted two old climbing roses I am very excited about -
SOMBREUIL: a tea rose, "capable of reaching great heights in a
sheltered garden," and whose "fragrance, shiny dark green foliage,
and spectacular creamy white flowers make this one of the most
beautiful and useful of all roses."
ZE'PHIRIN DROUHIN: a semi-double pink Bourbon, popular because the
canes are (really!) thornless.
Both of these are popular in the South, so should do well in the
Central Valley, but may be too tender for northern gardens. Also,
DORTMUND: a single red flower with white eye, said to have holly-
like foliage and good heat tolerance. I'd try it if I had more room.
All are highly rated and fairly disease resistant, though ZD may be
subject to mildew. The first two are available from Smith & Hawken,
the other is stocked by Berkeley Horticultural or try the usual suspects
(I can provide a list of old rose nurseries, if there is any demand.)
Subject: Old Rose sources
Summary: list of nurseries
Date: 31 Mar 92 20:41:52 GMT
Disclaimer: this list is not exhaustive and may contain inaccuracies.
No endorsement of products or service is necessarily (known or) implied.
The two large growers suspected of conspiring to block free trade with
Canada have been deliberately omitted...
Antique Rose Emporium
Route 5, Box 143
Brenham, TX 77833
409 836-9051
catalog $2.00
Carroll Gardens
P.O. Box 310
Westminster, MD 21157
301 848-5422
Corn Hill Nursery
RR 5, Route 890
Petitcodiac, N.B.
E0A 2H0 Canada
506 756-3635
catalog $2.00
Country Bloomers Nursery
20091 E. Chapman Ave.
Orange, CA 92669
714 633-7222
Country Heritage Roses
Route 2, Box 1401
Scurry, TX 75158
214 452-3380
Earl May Seed & Nursery L.P.
Shenandoah, IA 51603
800 831-4193
Forest Farms
990 Tetherow Road
Williams, OR 97544
503 846-6963
catalog $1.50
Forevergreen Farm
70 New Gloucester Road
North Yarmouth, ME 04021
207 829-5830
catalog free
Greenmantle Nursery
3010 Ettersburg Road
Garberville, CA 95440
707 986-7504
Gurney Seed & Nursery
110 Capitol Street
Yankton, SD 57079
605 665-4451
Heirloom Old Garden Roses
Oregon
503 538-1576
Heritage Rosarium
211 Haviland Mill Road
Brookeville, MD 20833
301 774-2806
catalog $1.00
Heritage Rose Gardens
16831 Mitchell Creek Drive
Fort Bragg, CA 95437
707 964-3748
catalog $1.00
High Country Rosarium
1717 Downing at Park Ave.
Denver, CO 80218
303 832-4026
Historical Roses
1657 W. Jackson Street
Painesville, OH 44077
216 357-7270
Hortico Roses
Robson Road, RR 1
Waterdown, Ontario
L0R 2H1 Canada
416 689-6984
catalog $2.00
Inter-State Nurseries
P.O. Box 10
Louisiana, MI 63353
314 754-4525
800 325-4180
Kimbrew-Walter Roses
Route 2, Box 172
Grand Saline, TX 75140
214 829-2968
Krider Nurseries
P.O. Box 29
Middlebury, IN 46540
219 825-5714
Lowe's Own Root Roses
6 Sheffield Road
Nashua, NH 03062
603 888-2214
catalog $2.00
Morden Nurseries
P.O. Box 1270
Morden, Manitoba
R0G 1J0 Canada
204 822-3311
Pickering Nurseries
670 Kingston Road Hwy 2
Pickering, Ontario
L1V 1A6 Canada
416 839-2111
catalog $2.00 (free price list)
Rose Acres
6641 Crystal Blvd.
Diamond Springs, CA 95619
916 626-1722
Roses of Yesterday & Today
802 Brown's Valley Road
Watsonville, CA 95076
408 724-3537
catalog $3.00
Smith & Hawken (seems to be expanding into the old rose market)
25 Corte Madera
Mill Valley, CA 94941
catalog info 415 383-2000
Yesterday's Rose
572 Las Colindas Road
San Rafael, CA 94903
Bev Dobson's Combined Rose List
215 Harriman Road
Irvington, NY 10533
(to locate source of any commercially propagated rose)
Re: Roses List
Species Roses
Rosa Foetida single petals yellow
Rosa foetida Persiana double flowers yellow
Rose foetida bicolor single orange
Mrs. Colville single red
Rosa pimpinellifolia "double white double flowers white
Rosa canina single pink
Kiftsgate single, rambler white
Alba Roses
Great Maiden's Blush fully double blush pink
Jeanne d'Arc fully double white
Rosa alba 'semiplena' semi-double white
Felicite Parmentier double pale pink
Gallica Roses
Rosa gallica semi-double rose madder
Rosa gallica versicolor double rose/white striped
Charles de Mills full double deep pink
Tuscany Superb full double fuchsia
Georges Vibert full double striped
Damask Roses
Rose de Rescht full double rose madder
Celsiana double pale pink
Madamme Hardy double white
Pink Leda double medium pink
Duchess de Montebello double palest pink
Leda double white/pink edges
Many of these roses are available from Wayside Gardens. I had ordered four
roses from them, and three are doing wonderfully. The fourth died, and I
called them today. They will send me a replacement this week, no charge. I
like this company!
Re: Old Roses (from Usenet, rec.gardens, Bob Batson, Susan Ford)
Date: 30 Mar 92 16:57:07 GMT
Here is a list of some of the main old rose varieties. I will follow it
up with a selection of roses from each group.
Species Roses
These plants are the ancestors of all of the roses. Species refers
to the plants as they have been found in the wild, un-changed and
un-hybridized. For the most part, species roses are single
petalled, and some are semi-double. The different varieties come
in yellow, pink, rose madder red, and white. They are also very
LARGE bushes, growing up to 50 feet or more. The Lady Banks rose
is an example of a species rose. Most of them only bloom once a
year.
Gallicas
The flowers of the gallicas are usually flat and fully double, the
bushes have few thorns, and they are easy to raise from seed. The
town of Provins, France, was for 600 years the center of a great
rose industry based on _R. gallica officinalis_ (Red Rose of
Lancaster) and some of its forms. This rose was believed to have
medicinal properties. The Empress Josephine collected gallica
roses for her garden in Malmaisson. Some of the roses in this
family date back to the 12th and 13th centurys. Most of them are
shades of rose madder and pink, and bloom only once in a season.
Damasks
This is the first old rose family to have ever-blooming flowers.
It is possible that this rose was brought to Europe by the Greek
traders in the main ports of the Mediterrainian between 800 and 600
B.C. The flowers are usually fully double, flowering in summer,
and then again in fall. They are said to be repeat bloomers,
instead of ever blooming. Their parentage is unknown, but it is
believed that they come from a cross of Rosa gallica and an
everblooming Asian species. An example of this rose family is
Autumn Damask, or "Quatre Saisons". The petals of this rose were
scattered under the feet of the Roman Emperors as they walked along
in public.
Centifolias
Centifolia means 'hundred petals', and these roses are the most
fully double of them all. The roses are very full, and the petals
divide into quarters within the flower. This rose dates back to
bout 410 B.C. These roses make good climbers. Most of the
centifolias bloom only once in spring.
Mosses
This large family of roses are called mosses because their stems
have thousands of tiny thorns on them, and even the flower bracts
are 'mossy' with thorns. The flowers are usually double, and bloom
in the spring. We had a moss rose, and the flowers were the most
intense pink/purple I have ever seen on any rose. It was beautful.
Portland
Developed in the middle of the 19th century, this rose family has
mostly ever-blooming or perpetual blooming roses. The first family
was produced in England at about 1800. The rose was named Duchess
of Portland, hence the name Portland roses. A good Portland rose
is Comte de Chambourd.
Bourbons
These roses came from a natural cross of a China rose and a damask
rose. The bushes are compact and the roses are fewer, but much
better flowers in the fall than the other rose families. This is
personally my favorite group of old roses. The flowers are very
double and globular shaped. They have a beautiful bloom in the
fall, and won't quit blooming until the frost kills them. Some
examples are Honorine de Brabant, La Reine Victoria, Madamme Isaac
Periere, and Souvenir de la Malmaison.
China Roses
It was with the introduction of the China roses to Europe that true
ever-blooming roses were developed. Portlands, Bourbons, and
perhaps even Damasks were produced by crossing them with China
roses. Although not very popular in the garden, these roses are
very important to the history of rose culture.
Some Available Old Roses
Species Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rosa Foetida single petals yellow
Rosa foetida Persiana double flowers yellow
Rose foetida bicolor single orange
Mrs. Colville single red
Rosa pimpinellifolia "double white double flowers white
Rosa canina single pink
Kiftsgate single, rambler white
Alba Roses
^^^^^^^^^^
Great Maiden's Blush fully double blush pink
Jeanne d'Arc fully double white
Rosa alba 'semiplena' semi-double white
Felicite Parmentier double pale pink
Gallica Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rosa gallica semi-double rose madder
Rosa gallica versicolor double rose/white striped
Charles de Mills full double deep pink
Tuscany Superb full double fuchsia
Georges Vibert full double striped
Damask Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rose de Rescht full double rose madder
Celsiana double pale pink
Madamme Hardy double white
Pink Leda double medium pink
Duchess de Montebello double palest pink
Leda double white/pink edges
Comte de Chambord double pink/lilac
Bourbon Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Honorine de Brabant double striped/lilac/white
Madame Isaac Pereire fully double rose madder
La Reine Victoria double, cupped med. pink
Boule de Neige double white
Madame Pierre Oger double pale pink
Souvenir de al Malmaison double/flat flesh pink
Ferdinand Pichard double red/white striped
Reine des Violettes double purple
Moss Roses
^^^^^^^^^^
General Kleber double palest pink
Shailer's White Moss double white
William Lobb double lilac
Centifolia Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Tour de Malkoff double deep fushcia
Chapeau de Napoleon double pink
De Meaux double pale pink
Hybrid Musk Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Cornelia semi double pink
Ballerina single whtie & pink
Penelope semi double pale yellow
Nymphenburg semi double apricot pink
Rugosa Roses
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Blanc Double de Coubert double white
Topaz Jewel double yellow
Reseraie de l'Hay doulbe med. pink
Linda Campbell double red
Alba single white
Fru Dagmar Hastrup single pink
Hansa double deep deep pink
Many of these may be found in Wayside Rose Catalog. Also, check your better
nurseries. Old roses are beginning to show up. I just found a good
speciman of "Souvenir de la Malmaison" for $7!!!!! What a find!
Article 9875 (69 more) in rec.gardens:
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Subject: FAQ -- Catalogs for Peppers
Date: 10 Aug 92 11:46:31 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa
Lines: 41
CATALOGS OF PEPPER (CAPSICUM) SOURCES
Mike Huben saved this list of pepper-lovers catalogs:
Horticultural Enterprises
P.O. Box 810082
Dallas, Texas 75381-0082
Native Seeds/Search
3950 W New York Drive
Tucson, AZ 85745
Cat $1; Chiltepine peppers as well as landraces of other
vegetables of the SW US and adjacent Mexico.
Old Southwest Trading Company
P.O. Box 7545
Albuquerque, NM 87194
Pepper Gal (The)
10536 119th Ave. North
Largo, FL 34643
Porter & Son
1510 E. Washington St
P.O. Box 104
Stephenville, TX 76401
Seed Savers Exchange
Rural Route 1, Box 239
Decorah, IA 52101
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
30 Irene St.
Torrington, CT 06790
St. Thomas Vegetable Products
Box 9519
St Thomas, VI 00801
phone # (809) 779-2904
-
Re: Pepper seed sources
SEED SAVERS EXCHANGE
Rural Route 1, Box 239
Decorah, IA 52101
THE PEPPER GAL
10536 119th Ave. North
Largo, FL 34643
Horticultural Enterprises
P.O. Box 810082
Dallas, Texas 75381-0082
Porter & Son
1510 E. Washington St
P.O. Box 104
Stephenville, TX 76401
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
30 Irene St.
Torrington, CT 06790
St Thomas Vegtable Products
Box 9519
St Thomas, VI 00801
phone # (809) 779-2904
Subject: Re: Peppers
Date: 21 May 92 21:51:04 GMT
Here are some mail order addresses for peppers. I got them in context
of a discussion of hot peppers, but they may have some sweet peppers
available. I would also check standard seed catalogs for sweet peppers.
Casa Moneo
210 W. 14th Street
New York, NY 10011
La Preferida, Inc.
3400 W. 35th Street
Chicago, IL 60632
The Pepper Gal, Dorothy L. Van Vleck, 10536 119th Avenue North,
Largo, FL 34643
Roswell Seed Co., 115-117 South Main, P.O. Box 725, Roswell, NM
88201, (505) 622-7701
Plants of the Southwest, 1812 Second Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501
Porter and Son, Seedsmen, 1512 East Washington Street, Stephenville,
TX 76401
Re: HOT peppers
Subject: Beyond Habanero or the list of hot chiles
Date: 10 Feb 92 22:06:39 GMT
The List of Hot Chiles:
REF: Redwood City Seed, box 361, redwood city, ca, 94064, CAT $1
HS=ounces of sauce that will be detectably hot with one ounce of chiles
chiles are tested in state normally used
Anaheim: HS=25 fresh
U.S. Ancho: HS=50 fresh
Serrano: HS=133 fresh
Mex. Ancho: HS=135 fresh
Fresno: HS=280 fresh
Jalapeno: HS=400 fresh
Guru Palace: HS=1,300 fresh
Guajillo: HS=1,300 dried
Cayenne: HS=2,500 fresh
Japones: HS=2,500 fresh
HABANERO: HS=2,500 fresh, unusual apricot flavor, reputedly the hottest
Aji Rojo: HS=3,500 dried
Thai: HS=6,700 dried
De Arbol: HS=8,000 dried
Red/Tabasco: HS=10,000 fresh
Zimbabwe Bird: HS=19,500 dried
Pequin: HS=20,000 dried
TEPIN: HS=50,000 dried without seeds, 13,000 dried with seeds
The Hottest, Guiness Book of World Records
BTW: Redwood City is also a source of seeds, if you want to grow these.
Re: Sources for pepper seeds
Subject: Habanero, Chili
Date: 9 Apr 92 15:21:45 GMT
One source for seeds is Shepherd's Garden Seeds in Connecticut. Their number
fo r a credit card order is (203) 482-3638. The stock nuber is #1964, cost
1.75$. Their address is:
Shepherd's Garden Seeds
30 Irene St.
Torrington, CT 06790
A second source is
St Thomas Vegtable Products
Box 9519
St Thomas, VI 00801
phone # (809) 779-2904
They advertise a grow kit. It includes domesticated growing instructions, seed
and a jar of habanero chili paste. Price 19.50 + 4.50 S&H.
Subject: RE: pepper seeds
Date: 10 Apr 92 14:45:50 GMT
There have been quite a few requests for various types of pepper seeds
and I have a catalogue from a company in Dallas, Texas, that specializes
in pepper seeds. I haven't had a chance to try their product so I can't
give any comments about quality or yield. Following is their name and
address and a list of the peppers in their catalogue. I hope this helps.
They don't list the SCOTCH BONNETT pepper which is frequently mistaken
for and more frequently passed off as HABANERO so if you are interested
in those perhaps in a year or so someone could tell us which they
really are.
Horticultural Enterprises
P.O. Box 810082
Dallas, Texas 75381-0082
ANCHO (Chile Poblano)
CUBANELLE
COLORADO (mild or hot)
MIRASOL
ANAHEIM (mild or hot)
HUNGARIAN HOT WAX
PASILLA
FRESNO CHILE GRANDE
CHERRY (sweet or hot)
JALAPENO (also TAM variety)
SERRANO
PIMIENTO GRANDE
TAKANOTUSME
SANTA FE GRANDE
GOLDSPIKE
YELLOW SWEET WAX
TOMATILLO
ROUMANIAN (sweet or hot)
JUPITER
CAYENNE
YUNG KO
TA TONG
PEPERONCINI
ITALIAN SWEET
GABANERO
FLORAL GEM
NUMEX BIG JIM
NUMEX R. NAKY
PETITE YELLOW
CALORO
HIDALGO
ESPANOLA IMPROVED
RUBY GIANT
CHIA (not the pet B-))
CILANTRO (Coriander, Chinese parsley)
TATUME
SUPER SIOUX
Terms are check or money order and no C.O.D.'s. All seeds are $1 per
package and there's a $1 postage/handling fee.
Re: Frost resistant chiles (from Usenet, rec.gardens)
Date: 14 Apr 92 18:25:46 GMT
I heard (saw) a rumor (posting) on r.g that there are no frost resistant
chiles. OK:
Capsicum baccatum v. pendulum
Andean Aji (~25oF?)
Capsicum pubescens
chile manzano rojo y amarillo, (red and yellow apple chiles), rocoto (~28oF?)
Capsicum (?) (also has pubescent leaves)
chile de arbol (~30oF?)
Seed Source:
J.L. Hudson, Seedsman, po box 1058, redwood city, ca, 94064, CAT $1
More Info Source:
-----------------
Solanaceae Enthusiasts, 3370 princeton ct, santa clara, ca, 95051
All I know about this outfit is that they are listed in Cornucopia as a
source of newsletters and books. Since I happen to know that this is
also the house of the world famous solanaceae expert, Mr. John Riley,
Re: Another pepper seed source (from Usenet, rec.gardens)
Subject: Re: Pepper Problems
Date: 28 Apr 92 14:54:12 GMT
And finally, here is the address for my pepper seed suplier:
Porter & Son
1510 E. Washington St
P.O. Box 104
Stephenville, TX 76401
I've only ordered from them once, but everything they sent was
satisfactory. They have lots more stuff than just peppers seeds.
Subject: HOT PEPPER SCALE
Date: 9 Oct 92 13:07:04 GMT
For anyone who has expressed an interest in a hot pepper scale, here
are a few scales I have compiled over the last few months, both from
the net and other sources. The final column is my own perception of
a pepper heat index, however it is suspect because it's my own taste
(I used a 1-10 scale as in "The Great Chile Book" so I arbitrarily
assigned habeneros a 10 as in the book). I mentioned only peppers
which appeared in at least two sources.
SOURCE (1) "The Great Chile Book" by M. Miller, scale of 1-10 (10 is
hottest)
SOURCE (2) Redwood City Seed Company, "HS" Hot Sauce scale, ounces
of sauce that will be detectably hot with one ounce of chiles
SOURCE (3) "The Whole Chile Pepper Magazine", Scoville Unit scale
X1000, obtained by high pressure liquid chromatography
SOURCE (4) My own palette
ALL SOURCES: (d) dried, (f) fresh
Aji Rojo, (1) 7-8.5 f, (2) 3500 d, (3) 30-50 f
Anaheim, (1) 2-3 f, (2) 25 f, (4) 2 f
Ancho, (1) 5 d, (2) 50 f, (4) 2-3 f
Cayenne, (1) 8 d, (2) 2500 f, (3) 30-50 f, (4) 8 f, 7 d
Cherry Red, (1) 3 f, 3 d, (4) 4 f
Chipotle, (1) 6 d, (2) 2500 d, (3) 50-100 f
De Arbol, (1) 7.5 d, (2) 8000 d, (3) 15-30 f
Guajillo, (1) 2-4 d, (2) 1300
Habenero, (1) 10 d, (2) 2500 f ,10000 d, (3) 100-300 f, (4) 10 f
Jalapeno, (1) 5.5 f, (2) 400 f, (3) 2.5-5 f, (4) 5 f
Pequin, (1) 8.5 d, (2) 20000 d, (3) 30-50 f
Problano, (1) 3 f, (2) 135 f, (4) 2-3 f
Rocoto, (1) 7-8 f, (3) 30-50 f
Serrano, (1) 7 f, 7.5 d, (2) 133 f, (3) 5-15 f, (4) 6 f
Tabasco, (1) 9 f, (2) 10000 f, (3) 30-50 f, (4) 9 f
Tepin, (1) 8 f, 8 d, (2) 13000 f, 50000 d
Thai, (1) 7-8 f, (2) 6700 d, (3) 50-100 f, (4) 9 f
Yellow Wax, (1) 1 f, (3) 5-15 f, (4) 2 f
From: James H. Sterling <sterlingj@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: North Star hybrid bell pepper plug transplants available.
Date: Thu, 12 May 94 23:41:09 -0500
North Star hybrid bell pepper transplants are available for sale
and some other varieties also. Some are .8" and some 1.0" greenhouse
grown plug transplants. They can be used for a fresh market or a pro-
cessing pepper crops. Yields from 15 to 23 tons per acre were achieved
with the North Star variety last year (1993). If you're interested, or
know of any one who might be, please contact me at one of the addresses
or numbers below for prices and time of availability . Thank you.
James H. Sterling (Jim), Field Manager
Postal: Moody Dunbar, Inc., P.O. Box 68, Limestone, TN 37681
UPS: 3202 Highway 107, Chuckey, TN 37641
Tel: Voice: 615-257-2131 Fax: 615-257-3649 Wats: 800-251-8202
email: 72135.244@compuserve.com or sterlingj@delphi.com
From: Brian Lo <dragon@csulb.edu>
Subj: FAQ: Peppers
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 09:10:47 -0800
PEPPERS
Capsicum annuum and C. frutescens
Taxonomists have only recently begun to agree regarding classification
of the domesticated species of Capsicum. Although 5 species are described,
only two, C. annuum and C. frutescens have any significance commercially in
the U.S.A. Early species separation on the basis of fruit shape, color and
position are of little taxonomic value. Flower and seed color, shape of the
calyx, the number of flowers per node and their orientation, are the primary
separating characteristics.
C. annuum is the most important domesticated species in the U.S.A. and
is the species to which all bell peppers, and all the peppers listed below
belong (unless specified otherwise.) The only C. frutescens pepper of any
significance is Tabasco. The Tabasco pepper is difficult to cross with C.
annuum types. Hot peppers may belong to any of above species and others. The
C. chinense varieties Habanero and Scotch Bonnet are considered the hottest.
See other comments under "Novelty" pepper section below.
The interest in peppers extends to their nutritive and medicinal value
in that peppers are a recognized source of Vitamins C, E and are high in
antioxidants. These compounds are associated with chemoprevention of cardio-
vascular disorders, cancers, and cataracts.
Peppers are a warm-season crop and need a long season for maximum
production. Temperature has a large effect on the rate of plant and fruit
growth and the development and quality of the red or yellow pigments. Ideal
temperature for red pigment development is between 65 and 75 F. Above this
range the red color becomes yellowish, and below it color development slows
dramatically and stops completely below 55 F.
Many excellent pepper varieties are available. Test several and select
the ones that do well under your production system, and meets your market
needs.
PUNGENCY RATINGS
The most common sensory method to determine pungency in peppers has been
an organoleptic test (Scoville, a dilution-taste procedure) with results ex-
pressed as Scoville Heat Units (SHU). The validity and accuracy of it have
been widely criticized. The American Spice Trade Association and the Interna-
tional Organization for Standardization have adopted a modified version. The
American Society for Testing and Materials is considering other organoleptic
tests (the Gillett method) and a number of chemical tests to assay for capsai-
cinoids involved in pungency. Still, the values obtained by the various tests
are often related to Scoville Heat Units.
A "National Fiery Foods Show" is held annually in Albuquerque NM. For
more information call 505/873-2187.
RECOMMENDED BELL PEPPER VARIETIES (approximately 60-70 days to first harvest
from transplants):
Bell (green): Belle Star, Yankee Bell, Bell King, North Star, Wonder
Bell, Lady Bell, Jupiter Elite, Park's Early Thickset, Bell Tower, Skipper,
Bellboy, Mission Bell, Ringer, Bell Captain, Melody, Ace Hybrid, Cardinal.
Research in the Hermiston area indicates that Jupiter Elite, Bell Tower,
Belmont, Galaxy and Skipper performed well. For trial: Camelot, Inia, Merlin,
Ranger, Summersweet, Wonderbelle, Cubico.
Note: In 1992, Bell Star and Yankee Bell produced the highest
proportion of 4-lobed, blocky peppers. Their plant growth is
more open, and not as many peppers were misshaped by growing among
branches and being confined between other fruit.
Bell (Red): Many green bell peppers turn red when fully mature. How-
ever, early, large-fruited, thick-walled varieties, demanded by the market,
are rare. Research at O.S.U. and from British Columbia indicates that Lady
Bell, La Bamba, Four Corners, Merlin, Ace Hybrid, Bellboy and Cardinal per-
formed best. Four Corners and Merlin also had thick-walls. For trial: Bell
Star, Melody, North Star, Ringer, Candice, Vidi and Predi.
Bell (yellow): Golden Belle and Astro (bright yellow), Klondike Bell
(early, high yield, has an some orange tinge), Honey Bell, Golden Cal Wonder,
Orobelle (orange-yellow). For trial: Atlantic, Summer Sweet, Marengo (Lamuyo
type); Gold Crest (small fruit) and Summer Sweet (both turn yellow or orange-
yellow quickly).
Bell (orange): Corona (performed best in OSU trials in '92). Oriole
(best in trials in British Columbia). For trial: Ariane, Kerala, Ori,
Valencia.
Purple, chocolate, and white bell peppers (see list below). These are
intermediate colors lasting 7-10 days then turning red.
Note: Many of the red, yellow and orange peppers found in the market
are greenhouse-grown from varieties specially developed for greenhouse
production.
Bell pepper varieties for greenhouse production of green or red fruit
for specialty markets (for trial only): Cubico, Flair, Plutona, Delphin.
Yellow fruit: Samantha, Gloden Flame, Golden Belle, Golden Crest, Marengo,
Orobelle, Olympic. Orange fruit: Ariane, Valencia.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Catagory, type of fruit attachment and pungency range:
variety name Color Stages Pungency Remarks
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bell; 3.5"X4.5", fruit pendant, pungency 0-100 Scoville Heat Units (SHU):
Bell King green to red sweet early
Bell Captain green to red sweet thick walls
Bell Tower green to red sweet smooth
Bellboy green to red sweet thick wall
Bellestar green to red sweet smooth
California Wonder 300 green to red sweet late, thick
Cardinal green to red sweet thick wall
Four Corners green to red sweet good shape
Jupiter green to red sweet large, mid
Lady Bell green to red sweet early
Midway green to red sweet early
Mission Belle green to red sweet v. smooth
Parks Early Thickset green to red sweet early
Parks Whopper green to red sweet med.
Pip green to red sweet large
Predi green to red sweet large, deep red
Ringer green to red sweet large, mid
Skipper green to red sweet smooth
Sweet Belle green to red sweet mid
Goldie yellow to red sweet early
Gypsy yellow to red sweet early
Yellow Belle yellow to red sweet early
Early Bountiful to yellow sweet
Golden Summer to yellow sweet late
Golden Cal. Wonder to yellow sweet thick wall
Golden Bell to yellow sweet early
Inia to yellow sweet thick wall
Klondike Bell to yellow sweet early, thick wall
Orobelle to yellow sweet thick wall
Summer Sweet 820 to yellow sweet
Golden Crest to orng-yellow sweet
Quadrato d'Oro to orng-yellow sweet
Ariane to orange sweet large, thick
Corona to orange sweet large, thick
Kerala to orange sweet large, thick
Oriole to orange sweet large, thick
Salsa RZ to orange sweet large, thick
Super Stuff yellow to orange sweet early
Catagory, type of fruit attachment and pungency range.
Variety name Color Stages Pungency* Remarks
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bell peppers continued:
Lorelei purple then red sweet small
Purple Beauty purple then red sweet small
Purple Belle purple then red sweet small
Violetta purple then red sweet small
Blue Jay to lavender then red sweet
Islander to lavender then red sweet
Lilac to lavender then red sweet
Chocolate Bell to chocolate sweet large fruit
Mulato to chocolate
Sweet Chocolate to chocolate sweet small fruit
Albino to white then red sweet small
Dove to white then red sweet small
Ivory to white then red sweet
Elongated Bell; (lamuyo type fruit) 3.5"x5"; pendant, pungency 0-100 SHU:
Blue Star green to red sweet large, late
Elisa green to red sweet mid
Marengo green to yellow sweet
Melody green to red sweet early
Signet green to yellow sweet early
Other peppers and their descriptions (approximately 65-105 days depending on
type).
Anaheim; fruit 2"x7"; pendant, pungency 500-3,500 SHU (most 500-1000 SHU):
Anaheim TMR green to red mild
Anaheim M green to red warm
Coronado green to red warm
New Mexico 64L green to red mild
NuMex Conquistador green to red sweet for paprika
Volcano green to red hot
Poblano/ancho; fruit heart-shaped 3"-4" x 4"-7"; pendant, 1,000-2,000 SHU.
The poblano pepper is a major type grown in Mexico, used green, red or dried
(called ancho when dried). It is commonly used for chiles rellenos:
Ancho 101 dark green to red mild thick wall
Esmeralda dark green to red ditto
New Mexican dark green to red ditto
Poblano dark green to red warm ditto
Verdano dark green to red ditto
Catagory, type of fruit attachment and pungency range.
variety name Color Stages Pungency* Remarks
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Elongated, tapered; fruit variable shapes and sizes; pendant, 0-1000 SHU:
Banana Supreme green to yellow sweet early
Canape green to yellow sweet early
Cuban yel-grn:red orange warm
Cubanelle yel-grn:red orange mild long fruit
Hungarian Wax grnish yel:yellow warm
Sweet Banana grnish yel:yellow sweet
Cherry; about 1" diameter; upright, 100-5,000 SHU:
Cascabel green to red hot
Large Red Cherry green to red warm
Sweet Cherry green to red warm
Cayenne; fruit 0.5"x3"; pendant, 30,000-50,000 SHU. A favorite in Creole and
Cajun cooking:
Cayenne, Large Red Thick green to red firey slender
Cayenne continued...
Cayenne, Long Slim green to red firey slender
Carolina Cayenne green to red firey
Charlston Hot grn to orange to red firey to 4" long
Super Cayenne green to red firey long slender
Jalapeno; fruit 1.5"x3"; pendant, 2,500-5000 SHU. The most common hot chili
grown in the U.S.A.:
Jalapa green to red hot blunt cylind.
Jalapeno M green to red very hot thick wall
Jalapeno Hot green to red hot smooth
Mitla hybrid green to red hot thick, blunt cyl.
Tam Jalapeno #1 green to red hot thick wall
Pimento; fruit 1.5"x2.5"; pendant, 0-100 SHU:
Pimento L green to red sweet thick wall
Serrano; fruit 0.5"x2.25"; pendant, 5,000-10,000 SHU:
Serrano types dark green to red very hot small
Tabasco C. frutescens; fruit 0.25"x 1.25";pendant, 30,000-50,000 SHU:
Tabasco green to red firey small
Novelty, ornamental:
Marbles (prolific round, mix of green, yellow and red fruit), Riot (prolific
upright long fruit, mix of green, yellow and red).
Habanero (C. chinense) a firey-hot box-shaped small pepper turning from green
to orange. Although the Habanero (C. chinense) pepper has been listed as
being the hottest of all peppers, some rated at 200,000 to 300,000 SHU, not
all Habaneros are hot! Hot Habanero peppers are used to make hot bottled
sauces. They are grown mainly in Central America and the Yucatan. Other C
chinense extremely hot peppers include Scotch Bonnet (yellow), and Bahamian.
SEED COMPANIES
Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
De Ruiter Seeds Inc. POB 20228, Columbus, OH 43220
ENZA Zaden, POB 7, 1600 AA, Enkhuisen, Netherlands 02280-15844
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
La Marche Seeds International, POB 190, Dixon, CA 95620
Nickerson-Zwaan Seed Co. POB 1787, Gilroy, CA 95021
Petoseed Co. Inc. POB 4206, Saticoy, CA 93303
Rogers NK. POB 4727, Boise, ID 83711-4727
Royal Sluis Inc. 1293 Harkins Rd. Salinas, CA 93901
Sluis & Groot of America Inc. 124 Griffin Street, Salinas, CA 93901
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
Sunseeds, 2320 Technology Pkwy. Hollister, CA 95023
The Pepper Gal. POB 12534 Lake Park, FL 33403-0534
Vilmorin Inc. POB 707 Empire, CA 95319
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc. 1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202
Zwaan Seeds Inc. POB 397, Woodstown New Jersey 08098-0397
SOIL
Peppers grow best on well-drained, moderately fertile soils. Use a soil
test to determine fertilizer and liming requirements. Adjust soil pH to near
neutral (7.0) for maximum yields.
SEED AND SEED TREATMENT
Pepper seed numbers approximately 72,000 per pound, but bell peppers are
not normally direct seeded. Use high quality, fungicide treated seed in the
production of transplants. Some seed companies now offer "vigorized' or
"conditioned" seed which has better germination under cool soil conditions.
Peppers are sensitive to damping-off. Most chile and spice peppers are
direct-seeded.
In direct seeded plantings a pop-up fertilizer solution may be helpful.
Spray directly on the seed a solution of 2-6-0 at 1 pint per 100 lineal feet
of row (use 1/2 this rate on sandy soils). A 2-6-0 solution is equivalent to
1 part of 10-34-0 liquid fertilizer diluted with 4 parts of water.
TEMPERATURE REQUIREMENTS
Pepper is a warm-temperature vegetable and requires a long growing sea-
son. Transplants which are grown should be kept close to the following tempe-
ratures: Days:65-85 F. Nights: 60-65 F. Temperatures above 95 F may result
in flower bud drop. Highest yields are obtained when soil temperatures remain
in the 70-75 F range. Soil temperatures below 68 F may result in substantial
yield reductions.
The use of clear plastic mulch applied over herbicide treated soil, or
black plastic mulch, or the new IRT (wave-length selective) mulch is strongly
recommended.
A very few peppers are sometimes grown in greenhouses. The varieties
Bellboy, Blue Star and Mogador are reported to tolerate cool temperatures that
sometimes occur in off-season greenhouse production.
TRANSPLANT PRODUCTION AND TRANSPLANTING
It takes between 3 and 4 ounces of seed to produce enough plants for an
acre. Seeds should be planted in a heated greenhouse 6 to 8 weeks before the
field transplanting date. When growing transplants in unheated greenhouses,
cold frames or field transplant beds, 8 to 14 weeks may be necessary.
Seedlings are transplanted to other flats when the first true leaves are l l/2
in. long and spaced 2 to 2 l/2 in. apart in the greenhouse or plant bed. At
all times handle pepper seedlings with care because they are easily broken or
damaged. Harden transplants for about a week before transplanting to the
field by reducing moisture and maintaining a temperature of 55 to 65 F. This
will give resistance to wilting and sunscald.
Apply a starter fertilizer solution to the transplants when transplan-
ting to the field. Select starter fertilizers that have the highest level of
phosphorus available, such as 10-52-17, 11-48-0, 11-55-0 dry fertilizers or
10-34-0 liquid fertilizer. Make up a stock solution of 3 lbs of the dry, such
as 10-52-17, or 2 pints of liquid 10-34-0 per 50 gallons of water. Use 1/2
pint of of this stock solution per plant, applying the solution directly to
the plant roots when setting in the field. You will need about 13 fifty
gallon batches to transplant an acre.
Depth of transplanting has normally been to the top of the roots or root
ball. Research from Florida with the variety Jupiter suggests that pepper
transplants may benefit from being set deeper, up to the first true leaf.
Thirty days after transplanting, plants planted to the first true leaf had
more leaves, greater plant dry weight, more blooms and less lodging than
transplants planted to the cotyledons or to the top of the root ball. Other
data from Pennsylvania suggest caution however. Soil temperature and moisture
would be important considerations.
Greenhouse peppers are sown October through February for harvest of red
fruit approximately 5 months later, March through July.
SPACING
Space rows, or pairs of rows about 18-36 inches apart. Plants should be
12-l8 in. apart in the row and between pairs of rows, depending on method of
transplanting and transplanter capability. These spacings represent a plant
population of from 10,000 to 29,000 per acre
Leave roadways across the field at about 150 foot intervals to facili-
tate carrying pails of peppers to collection locations if a harvester aid and
bulk loading is not used.
When using plastic mulch, plant 2 rows of peppers per mulch strip, using
36 inch wide platic. Space plastic strips 5-6 feet apart. Use drip irriga-
tion tubing under the plastic mulch between the two pepper rows, with drip
emmiters at 9 inch spacing down the row.
In greenhouse production, allow 3.0 to 3.5 square feet/plant. Plants
are pruned to a 2-stem training system. After 10-12 leaves have developed,
the plant forks, and a flower develops at the fork. Two or three branches are
produced, of which the two strongest are chosen for further production. These
must be supported by a string or post, and all subsequent branches removed
after the 2nd leaf. Restrict fruit set on the two stems until at least 3 or 4
leaf axils have formed or stem growth and subsequent fruit set will be greatly
reduced.
FERTILIZER
A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements. The
following recommendations are general guidelines for loamy soils or when
organic matter exceeds 2 1/2% :
Nitrogen: 75-100 (N) lb/acre.
Side-dress with 35-50 lb/acre of nitrogen after the first flowers are
set. Where mulching and trickle irrigation are practiced, additional
nitrogen can be fed through the trickle irrigation system at l5 lb./acre when
the first fruit begins to set and an additional l5 lb./acre four weeks after.
To prevent clogging or plugging from occurring use soluble forms of nitrogen
(urea or Ammonium nitrate) and chlorinate the system once a month with a l0 to
50 ppm chlorine solution. Chlorinate more frequently if the flow rate
decreases.
Phosphate: 100-150 (P2 O5) lb/acre
Potash: 100-200 (K2 O) lb/acre depending on soil test.
Sulfur: 30-35 (S) lb/acre
pH: Add lime if below 6.0
GROUND MULCHES AND ROW COVERS
The use of clear plastic mulch applied over herbicide treated soil, or
black plastic ground mulch is recommended. The use of ground mulch increases
soil temperature, conserves soil moisture, and controls weeds, increasing
yields and is strongly recommended especially for production in western
Oregon. A new generation of plastic mulch films allows for good weed control
together with soil warming that is intermediate between black plastic and
clear film. These films are called IRT (infra-red transmitting) films. They
are more expensive than black or clear films, but may be cost-effective where
soil warming is important. (See also section on spacing).
Spunbonded polyester and perforated polyethylene row covers may be used
for 4 to 6 weeks immediately after transplanting depending on temperature.
Research in Illinois with the varieties "Lady Bell" and "Bell Boy", over a
three year period, indicates that covers should be removed after 650-675 heat
units (using a base temperature of 50 F.) have been accumulated. Heat units
should be based on temperatures recorded outside the covers but nearby and
calculated as: the sum of (daily high+daily low)/2-50 F.
Row covers increase heat unit accumulation by 2 to 3 times over ambient.
Two to four degrees of frost protection may also be obtained at night. Soil
temperatures and root growth are also increased under row covers as are early
yields, and in some cases total yields. Research from Connecticut indicates
that the use of row cover and plastic mulch is particularly cost effective
when growing red, yellow or orange bell peppers for the fresh market.
IRRIGATION
Apply water uniformly to reduce incidence of blossom end rot. Irrigate
carefully after fruit ripens to reduce fruit decay. A total of 12-15 inches
may be needed in western Oregon and 25-30 inches in eastern Oregon, depending
on planting date and harvest season. Approximate summer irrigation needs for
the Hermiston area have been found to be: 3.5 inches in May, 5.0 in June, 7.5
in July, and 7.0 in August.
HARVESTING, HANDLING AND STORAGE
Yields of 15 to 25 tons/acre of bell peppers may be obtained for
processing. Fresh market yields may range from 500 to 1000 28 lb. cartons per
acre. Pimento and dried chili pepper yields range from 2 to 3 tons/acre.
Pepper yields are greatly influenced by the number of harvests and season.
Bell pepper types are generally hand harvested as green mature fruits.
Maturity is determined when fruits are smooth and firm to the touch (a
function of wall thickness). Bell peppers for fresh market must also be 3
inches in diameter and not less than 3 1/2 inches long to qualify as USDA
Fancy. They can also be harvested red, which are considerably sweeter and
more flavorful.
Cherry types are harvested as both green and red fruits, and the banana
types are generally harvested as yellow mature peppers. Jalapano and some
cherry peppers have been machine harvested successfully in Michigan and
California. Machine harvesting may be successful with other types especially
where the peppers are intended for processing. Peppers intended for machine
harvest need to be grown on raised beds in order to be harvested successfully.
When red peppers are desired, a foliar spray of Ethephon (Ethrel) may be
used to promote early, uniform ripening and coloring, or to ripen the par-
tially ripe fruit remaining at the end of the harvest season. Check the
Ethephon label for complete instructions and regulations.
STORAGE (quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook #66):
Sweet Peppers:
Store sweet peppers at 45 to 55 F and 90 to 95 % relative humidity.
Sweet, or bell, peppers are subject to chilling injury at temperatures below
45 F, and temperatures above 55 F encourage ripening and spread of bacterial
soft rot. Bell peppers should not be stored longer than 2 to 3 weeks even
under the most favorable conditions. At 32 to 36 F peppers usually develop
pitting in a few days. Peppers held below 45 F long enough to cause serious
chilling injury also develop numerous lesions of alternaria rot. Alternaria
causes the calyx to mold and decay. Holding at 40 F and below predisposes
peppers to Botrytis decay also.
Rapid precooling of harvested sweet peppers is essential in reducing
marketing losses, and this can be done by forced-air cooling, hydrocooling or
vacuum cooling. Properly vented cartons are recommended to facilitate forced-
air cooling. If hydrocooling is used, care should be taken to prevent the
development of decay.
Sweet peppers prepackaged in moisture-retentive films, such as perforat-
ed polyethylene, have a storage life at 45 to 50 F up to a week longer than
non- packaged peppers. The use of film crate liners can help in reducing
moisture loss from the fruit.
It is commercial practice to wax peppers; only a thin coating should be
applied. Waxing provides some surface lubrication, which not only reduces
chafing in transit but also reduces shrinkage; the result is longer storage
and shelf life. Senescence of sweet peppers is hastened by ethylene. There-
fore, it is not a good practice to store peppers with apples, pears, tomatoes,
or other ethylene producing fruits in the same room.
Low-oxygen (3 to 5 %) atmospheres retard ripening and respiration during
transit and storage. High concentrations of carbon dioxide delay the loss of
green color. However, high carbon dioxide also causes calyx discoloration.
Chili and Other Hot Peppers:
Storage temperature depends on use; see text. A humidity of 60 to 70%
is recommended. Chili peppers are usually picked when ripe and are then dried
and allowed to equalize in moisture content in covered piles. Water is
usually added to the peppers after drying to reduce brittleness. They are
then packed tightly into sacks holding 200 or more pounds and are generally
stored in non-refrigerated warehouses for up to 6 months. The temperature of
the warehouses depends to some extent on their construction and the way in
which they are managed but chiefly on the outside temperature (50 to 75 F).
Insect infestation is a major storage problem. In southern states, chili and
other hot peppers are dried, packaged, and then stored at 32 to 50 F until
shipped to processing plants. Storage at low temperatures aids in retarding
the loss of red color and in slowing down insect activity.
The moisture content of chili and other hot peppers when stored should
be low enough (10 to 15 %) to prevent mold growth. A relative humidity of 60
to 70 % is desirable. With a higher moisture content the pods may be too
pliable for grinding and may have to be re-dried. With lower moisture content
(under 10 %) pods may be so brittle they shatter during handling; this causes
losses and the release of dust, which is irritating to the skin and respirato-
ry system.
The use of polyethylene bags allows better storage and reduces the dust
problem. The liners ensure that the pods maintain a constant moisture content
during storage and up until the time of grinding; thus, they permit successful
storage or shipment under a wide range of relative humidities. Packed in this
manner, peppers can be stored 6 to 9 months at 32 to 40 F.
Manufacturers of chili and other hot pepper products hold part of their
supply of the raw material in cold storage at 32 to 50 F, but they prefer to
grind the peppers as soon as possible and store them in the manufactured form
in airtight containers.
Freshly harvested chili or other hot peppers should be stored under the
same temperature and humidity conditions as those for sweet peppers.
PACKAGING
Bell peppers are packaged in 25-30 lb. l l/9 bushel containers or 30 lb.
cartons. Chili peppers and yellow types are packaged in 16-25 lb. lugs or 10-
20 lb. cartons.
PEST CONTROL FOR PEPPERS
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY.
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.
USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!
Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label.
Bathe or shower after each use.
Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).
Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.
WEED CONTROL
When black plastic ground mulch is not used, cultivate as often as
necessary when weeds are small. Proper cultivation, field selection and
rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical weed control.
THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS
FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION
Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable. The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop. Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.
1. Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve
maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface. Soil temperatures
and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic.
2. Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance. Otherwise, new weed seed
will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.
3. Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the
field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed
weeds.
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming
Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the
weeds, but not consume them with flame.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
paraquat 0.625 to 0.94 lb ai/A
Gramoxone Extra
(see remarks)
Restricted-use pesticide. Do not ingest or inhale spray mist. Wearing
protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised. Apply
during or after planting, but before crop emergence. Add a nonionic
surfactant or crop oil concentrate according to label specifications,
taking care to avoid anionic formulations that react in the tank to form
insoluble precipitates. Exposed crop plants will be killed. Do not
apply preplant or preemergence to soils lacking clay minerals, such as
peat, muck, pure sand, or artificial planting media. (Acts as contact;
absorbs energy produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides that disrupt
living cells.)
______________________________________________________________________________
PREEMERGENCE SOIL-APPLIED
DIRECT-SEEDED AND TRANSPLANTS
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
trifluralin 0.5 to 1.0 lb ai/A
Treflan
(transplanted pepper only)
Apply before transplanting and incorporate within 24 hours by cross-
disking or by using a PTO rotary tiller. Transplants may be set im-
mediately. Spray only once and avoid overlaps. Use lower rates on
light or coarse textured soils low in organic matter. Consult label for
planting crops within 12 months. (Inhibits mitosis, primarily of
shoots).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
napropamide 1 to 2 lb ai/A
Devrinol
Apply and incorporate uniformly 1 to 2 inches deep. Use lower rates on
light, sandy, or coarse-textured soils. Following harvest, deep
moldboard plowing or disk plowing must be completed before planting
succeeding crops. (Inhibits roots of seedlings).
______________________________________________________________________________
TRANSPLANTS ONLY
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DCPA 9 lb ai/A
Dacthal
Apply 4 to 6 weeks after transplanting to weed-free soil. Soil should
be moist and additional water applied for activation. Performs poorly
in western Oregon and Washington. Consult label for planting sensitive
crops within 12 months. Results can be improved with overhead irriga-
tion applied immediately after spraying. (Inhibits mitosis).
______________________________________________________________________________
ACTIVATED CHARCOAL SEED PROTECTION
Several Pacific Northwest grass seed crops are protected from herbicide injury
with the use of activated charcoal which adsorbs and detoxifies or inactivates
the herbicide. In vegetables, activated charcoal can be mixed with horticul-
tural grade vermiculite and applied as an anticrustant/seed protectant. The
activated charcoal vermiculite mix is placed within the seed furrow using a
positive feed device. Herbicides must not leach excessively or move readily
from crop roots into the plant. Although crop safety can be enhanced, weeds
emerging from within the treated area also are protected.
Another use for activated charcoal involves seed protection from herbicides
that leach into the seed zone from excessive rainfall. Seed coatings of
activated charcoal would reduce the active concentration of herbicide at or
very near the seed during the germination process.
Activated charcoal/vermiculite mix: Thoroughly mix 1 lb activated
charcoal/ft3 of number 2 or 3 grade horticultural
vermiculite. If severe dustiness is a problem, add a
small amount of water. Apply 1 ft3 of mixture/600 ft.
of seeded row or approximately 15 cu.ft/A. Fill the
seed furrow using a positive feed applicator and press
with a press wheel.
______________________________________________________________________________
POSTEMERGENCE
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sethoxydim 0.29 lb ai/A
Poast
Identify susceptible grasses and apply at optimum growth stage listed on
the label. Add 2 pints/A nonphytotoxic crop oil concentrate to improve
leaf absorption. Erratic control often occurs when grasses are stunted
or stressed from drought, high temperatures, or low fertility. Resis-
tant grasses include annual bluegrass and all fine fescues, whereas
quackgrass can be suppressed. Do not apply within 20 days of harvest,
nor exceed 4.5 pints/A per season. (Inhibits fatty acid production,
cell membranes, and new growth.)
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT CONTROL
Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects.
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
Insect and Description Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Armyworms, Cutworms, Loopers. permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb
Loopers only.
Lannate - 0.45 lb
Small to large larvae that feed
on stems, leaves, and fruit. carbaryl - 2.0 lb Cutworms
and fall armyworm only.
Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb
Bacillus thuringiensis - 1 to 2
qt. Use a spreader-sticker to
enhance control.
Orthene - 0.5 to 1 lb
Bell peppers only.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Green peach aphid endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb
Myzus persicae
Phosdrin - 0.25 lb
Yellowish, pink to pale green
plant louse. malathion - 1.25 to 1.5 lb
Where aphids have become phosphamidon - 0.5 lb
resistant to most organic phos-
phate insecticides, endosulfan Dibrom - 1 lb
is the preferred material.
dimethoate - 0.25 to 0.33 lb
Lannate - 0.45 lb
Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb
Orthene - 0.5 to 1 lb
bell peppers only
diazinon - 0.25 lb
Vydate L - 0.5 to 1.0 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Garden symphylan Dyfonate - 2 to 4 lb. Preplant
Scutigerella immaculata soil treatment. Do not rotate
with carrots.
Small, white, centipede-like
animals active in soil. parathion - 6 lb - replant soil
treatment.
Telone II or C-17 preplant
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flea beetles including azinphosmethyl - 0.5 lb
Western potato flea beetle
Epitrix subcrinita carbaryl - 1 lb
Small, oval, shiny bronze jump- Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb
ing beetles. Chew small circu-
lar holes in foliage. methoxychlor - 1.75 to 2.25 lb
rotenone - 0.35 to 0.5 lb
endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb
permethrin - 0.1 to 0.2 lb
Bell peppers only.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Spider mites dicofol - 0.375 to 0.75 lb. Do
Tetranychus spp. not feed.
Tiny, spiderlike animals found Phosdrin - 0.5 lb
on undersurfaces of foliage.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms diazinon - 3 to 4 lb
Limonius spp.
Dyfonate - 4 lb
Brown, jointed larvae of click Do not rotate with carrots.
beetles. Kill young plants, in-
jure older ones. Telone II or C-17 preplant
__________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE CONTROL
Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable seed
sources reduces risk from seed born diseases.
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
PEPPER -- MOSAIC VIRUSES
Cause: Several viruses transmitted by aphids, including alfalfa mosaic virus,
potato virus y, pepper mottle virus, tobacco etch virus, and cucumber mosaic
virus. Tomato spotted wilt virus also infects pepper but is transmitted by
thrips.Symptoms: Bright yellow mottle, ringspots, and line patterns on both
leaves and fruit. Fruit and plants are stunted, and sometimes exhibit lateral
leaf rolling. Many of these viruses overwinter in perennial legumes such as
alfalfa and various clovers. Several common weeds are hosts of some of the
viruses.
Control: Plant as far as possible from alfalfa fields, clover fields, and
permanent pastures containing clovers. Keep area around fields as weed-free
as possible. Aphid control is helpful but will not provide perfect control.
If tomato spotted wilt is a problem, control of thrips will be of some help.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- ANTHRACNOSE
Cause: Gloeosporium, a fungus found on both peppers and eggplants. This
fungus (like many other anthracnose fungi) is saprophytic during part of its
life cycle and may survive from year to year in the soil crop refuse.
Symptoms: Round sunken spots appear on both green and ripe fruits. Spores
develop on the infections often in radiating circles around the center, which
later may contain masses of pink spores. The seed may be infected and often
seedlings have the disease, which later moves into the developing foliage.
Such infections are often unnoticed until the fruits start to grow, at which
time the fruit rot phase may become serious.
Control:
1. Destroy all plant refuse by burning or deep plowing.
2. Rotate crops.
3. Spray fixed copper fungicide. See product label.
4. Spray Maneb at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A. Do not apply more than 9.6 lb
ai/A/season. Do not apply within 7 days of harvest.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- BACTERIAL SPOT
Cause: A bacterium Xanthomonas vesicatoria, that is seedborne and frequently
comes with transplants. It will live over winter in infected debris and is
spread by irrigation. Pickers and equipment also spread the disease, particu-
larly when the plants are wet.
Symptoms: Water-soaked spots on leaves that turn gray with black centers.
They frequently are surrounded by a yellow halo. They later fall out, leaving
holes apaproximately 0.25 inch in diameter that give the plant a ragged look.
Fruit spots are at first water-soaked and later become raised and scabby.
Control:
1. Plant disease-free seed or transplants.
2. Limit overhead irrigation or, better, produce peppers under furrow or drip
irrigation.
3. Do not pick or cultivate plants when they are wet.
Chemical control:
If disease is present, spray with fixed copper during wet period. Several
materials are labeled. See product label for rates.
Residue: Copper -- exempt.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- CERCOSPORA LEAF SPOT
Cause: Cercospora melongenae (mostly on eggplant), Cercospora capsici (mostly
on pepper), fungi. These organisms survive the winter on dead plant parts.
Symptoms: Leaf spot infections on eggplant are small, chlorotic, gray turning
to brown, with tiny, dark specks containing spores arranged in circular
fashion. Eggplant fruits are not attacked. Leaf spot on pepper is at first
water-soaked and up to inch in diameter, later becoming tan in shade with a
dark marginal ring. Centers may often drop out as they age. Spots develop on
stems and petioles. When numerous, the leaves turn yellow and may drop or
wilt. Defoliation is often serious, exposing peppers to sunscald.
Control:
1. Destroy by burning or deep burying old pepper and eggplant refuse.
2. Use seed from disease-free areas.
3. Rotate crops.
4. Spray Maneb at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A. Do not apply more than 9.6 lb
ai/A/season. Do not apply within 7 days of harvest.
5. Spray fixed copper fungicide. See product label.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- COMMON (Tobacco) MOSAIC
Cause: A virus spread by aphids and mechanical means. It overwinters on wild
perennial hosts.
Symptoms: Varying types of yellow and green leaf mottling accompanied by
curling and leaf distortion are displayed. In the early season, plants are
frequently stunted and very few fruits develop. Plants infected later in the
season (during or after blossom) show slight mottling only. Infected fruits
are often yellowed, shriveled, mottled, irregularly shaped, and dwarfed in
size.
Control:
1. Maintain rigid weed control in nearby plantings.
2. Controlling aphid vectors with insecticides may help reduce spread.
3. Do not smoke around the plants, particularly in the greenhouse.
4. Wash hands after handling infected plants.
5. Rouge infected plants early.
6. Resistant cultivars include `Yolo-wonder', `Pennbell', `Bell Boy',
`California Wonder 300', `Orobelle', `Bell Tower', `Elisa', `Marquis', `Belle
Star', `Big Belle', `Four Corners', `Sweet Belle', `Bolero', `Lamuyo',
`Emerald Giant', `Prima Belle', `Lady Bell', `La Bamba', `Jupiter' and
`Keystone Resistant Giant'. Hot types that are resistant include `Anaheim TMR
23', `Caloro', `Santa Fe Grande', `Tam Jalapano', `Tam Serrino Hidalgo', and
`Gold Spike'.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- LATE BLIGHT
See Potato and Tomato - Late Blight
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- ROOT ROT
Cause: Phytophthora capsici, a fungus. This soil-inhabiting organism causes
root rot in pepper and eggplants and is most active in moist, warm weather.
Symptoms: At soil level, dark-greenish, water-soaked spots occur which often
girdle the stem, causing the plants to wilt and die. Foliage leaf spots
develop, which are often water-soaked and irregular in shape, later becoming a
light-brown shade. The fruit shows similar spots often enlarging to cover the
entire fruit, which later dries and becomes mummied.
Control:
1. Plant only in clean soil where the disease has not occurred.
2. Use disease-free seed.
3. Practice light irrigation and crop rotation.
4. Ridomil 2E can be used to control this problem. A full program consists
of a preplant application followed by two postplant applications. See product
label.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PEPPER -- VERTICILLIUM WILT
Cause: Verticillium dahliae, a fungus organism. The Verticillium wilt organism
is a widespread soil inhabitant which affects a wide range of herbaceous and
woody plants.
Symptoms: Infected plants show a stunting of growth accompanied by yellowing
and inward rolling of the leaves. The disease development on eggplant begins
with a yellowing of the lower leaves, reduced size and vascular discoloration.
It is seedborne in the eggplant. The fungus gains entry through the root
system, and progress in the plant is primarily through the vascular system.
Control:
1. Old crop remains should not be left on the field or added to the compost
pile, as this encourages future infections.
2. Crop rotation with nonsusceptible grasses and grains may be of some small
value, but nothing can really be done to eradicate this disease.
3. Avoid tomatoes and potatoes in any rotation, as these are favorite hosts.
4. There are as yet no resistant varieties.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
---------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------
This information was adapted by the Oregon State
University Extension Service from Oregon and
Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable
production guidelines from public institutions
in the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are
intended as a general guide for Oregon commercial
vegetable producers. Address comments of questions
to your County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S.
Mansour, Department of Horticulture, Oregon State
University, Corvallis, OR 97331.
---------------------------------------------------