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FAQ: Turnips
TURNIPS
Brassica rapa (Rapifera Group)
VARIETIES (approximately 60 days for roots, 30 days for greens)
Purple Top White Globe; hybrids for trial: Royal Globe II Hybrid,
Royal Crown; all white hybrids for trial: Tokyo Cross, White Lady. Club
root resistant, for trial: York.
Greens: Shogoin, Seven Top, Topper, All Top (see seperate file on
turnip greens).
SEED COMPANIES
Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047
Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915
Elsoms Seeds Ltd. Spalding, Lincolnshire, England PE11 1QG
Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352
Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624
Johnny's Selected Seeds, Foss Hill Rd. Albion, ME 04910
La Marche Seeds International, POB 190, Dixon, CA 95620
Nickerson-Zwaan Seed Co. POB 1787, Gilroy, CA 95021
Northrup King Co. Vegetable Seed Group, POB 1827, Gilroy, CA 95021
Royal Sluis Inc. 1293 Harkins Rd. Salinas, CA 93901
Sakata Seed America Inc. Morgan Hill, CA
Sluis & Groot of America Inc. 124 Griffin Street, Salinas, CA 93901
Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273
Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc. 1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202
SOIL
Use deep loam or sandy loam soil types that have good drainage. It is
desirable to have a good amount of organic matter in the soil as well.
SEED AND SEED TREATMENT
Turnip seed numbers approximately 192,000 per pound. Use hot-water and
fungicide treated seed to protect against several serious seed borne diseases.
Hot water seed treatments are very specific (122 F exactly, for 25 to 30
minutes; the wet seed then quickly cooled and dried). The seed treatments are
best done by the seed company, and can usually be provided upon request.
PLANTING AND SPACINGS
For summer harvest plant as early in the spring as possible. For later
harvests plant up to the 7th of June. Seed 1 to 2 lbs seed/acre at a depth of
1/2 to l in. Space rows 1-3 ft. apart and plants within the row 2-6 inches
apart. Turnip seed is easy to precision plant and germinates readily. No
pelleting is necessary with precision planters. When these planters are used,
adjust the seeding rate considering plant stand desired, seed count per pound
and germination percentage.
FERTILIZER
A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements. The
following recommendations are general guidelines.
Manure - If manure is available, apply the year before and not in the
year of seeding.
At time of seeding, band 2 in. to the side of the seed, at a depth of 2
inches below the seed, the following:
Nitrogen: 50-75 (N) lb./acre
Phosphate: 100-150 (P2 O5) lb./acre
Potash: 80-150 (K2 O) lb./acre
Boron: Broadcast and disc in 2-4 lb./acre of boron prior to planting.
If additional boron is required, use Solubor or Borospray at l/2 to l lb./acre
when turnips are l in. in diameter.
IRRIGATION
Water uniformly for best shape and quality. Turnips may require from 8-
12 inches of water depending on planting date, seasonal variation and variety.
Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does
dictate frequency of water application. Lighter soils need more frequent
water applications, but less water applied per application.
HARVESTING, HANDLING, AND STORAGE
Turnip yields are approximately 300 cwt./acre. Handle roots with care
during harvest to reduce injury and rots during storage. Store only healthy
roots as indicated below.
STORAGE (quoted form USDA Ag. Handbook # 66):
Store turnips at 32 F and 95% relative humidity. Topped turnips require
storage conditions similar to those for topped carrots. Turnips in good
condition can be expected to keep 4 to 5 months at 32 F and high relative
humidity. At higher temperatures (40 F and above) decay will develop much
more rapidly than at 32 f. Injured or bruised turnips should not be stored.
Turnips should be stored in slatted crates or bins, and good air circulation
around containers should be provided.
Packaging turnips in perforated plastic bags helps keep the humidity
high around the roots during marketing and reduces shriveling.
Dipping turnips in hot melted paraffin was gives a glossy appearance and
is of some value in reducing moisture loss during handling. However, waxing
is primarily to aid in marketing and is not recommended before long-term
storage.
PACKAGING
Topped turnips are commonly packaged in 25 lb. film bags; 50 lb. film
and mesh bags; or 24 pound cartons holding 24 film bags, 1 pound each.
PEST CONTROL FOR TURNIPS
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST
CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY.
BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE
UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS
SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION-
ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL.
USE PESTICIDES SAFELY!
Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label.
Bathe or shower after each use.
Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow
closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).
Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a
pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from
pesticide use.
WEED CONTROL
Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper cultiva-
tion, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for
chemical weed control.
THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS
FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
WEED MANAGEMENT GENERAL STRATEGY
Weed suppression in crucifers begins by rotating crops that involve different
weed control practices or herbicides to disrupt weed life cycles. Row
spacings and plant densities vary to achieve head size depending on the market
and to suppress weeds. Early season weed control comprises application of an
herbicide and/or cultivation(s).
______________________________________________________________________________
STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION
Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec-
tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable. The concept depends
on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence
of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed
flushes during establishment of the crop. Following establishment, other weed
control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be
used.
1. Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve
maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface. Soil temperatures
and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic.
2. Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance. Otherwise, new weed seed
will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions.
3. Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the
field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed
weeds.
Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flaming
Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the
weeds, but not consume them with flame.
______________________________________________________________________________
PREEMERGENCE
DCPA 4.5 to 9 lb ai/A
Dacthal
Performs erratically west of Cascades. Elsewhere, apply immediately
after seeding or transplanting. Results can be improved if rainfall or
overhead irrigation occurs immediately after application. Consult label
for planting sensitive crops within 8 months. (Inhibits mitosis).
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
INSECT CONTROL
Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects.
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS ARE
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
Insect and Description Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aphids including malathion - 2 lb
Cabbage aphid
Brevicoryne brassicae diazinon - 0.5 lb
Turnip aphid
Hyadaphis pseudobrassicae Phosdrin - 0.25 lb
Both species closely resemble Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb
each other. Gray, mealy plant
lice form colonies. dimethoate - 0.25 lb
Dibrom - 1 to 1.5 lb
Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flea beetles, including diazinon - 0.5 lb
Phyllotreta cruciferae
methoxychlor - 2.25 lb
Small, shiny, steel-blue jump-
ing beetle. Frequently attacks carbaryl - 1 lb
and destroys seedlings.
Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cabbage maggot Lorsban 4E - 0.05 to 0.86 lb
Delia brassicae ai/1000 row ft.
White legless larvae feed on Lorsban 15G - 0.69 to 1.38 lb
roots. ai/1000 row ft.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Diamondback moth diazinon - 0.5 lb
Plutella maculipennis
methoxychlor - 1 lb
Gray or brown moth with white
margins on forewing. When Bacillus thuringiensis - 1 to 2 qt
folded, white margins form dia- Apply with appropriate spreader-
mond. Larvae are pale yellow- sticker.
ish-green in color with finely
scattered erect black hairs. permethrin - 0.05 to 0.1 lb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wireworms Telone II or C-17 - preplant
Brown, jointed larvae of click diazinon 14G - 3 to 4 lb
beetles. Chew holes in edible roots.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
DISEASE CONTROL
Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and
irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be
tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable seed
sources reduces risk from seed born diseases.
THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE
CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR
CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.
TURNIP - BORON DEFICIENCY
Cause: Deficiency of boron in the soil and subsequent deficiency in the turnip
plant. All vegetables require boron for growth but vary considerably in the
amount required.
Symptoms:
Leaves - May or may not show abnormalities. Leaves may turn reddish in color.
If deficiency is severe, both roots and leaves may be stunted. The leaves may
be twisted and curled and finally die.
Roots - Glassiness or water core of the root flesh followed by internal gray,
punky flecks or spots that later change to brown or black areas.
Control: Since the amount needed to correct boron deficiency varies so widely
in different areas, and since boron if used in excessive amounts can act as a
soil sterilant, check with your county extension agent or processor field pe-
rson for local recommendations. However, where boron deficiency has been a
problem, particularly in alkaline soils, one or two foliar applications of
soluble boron are recommended.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TURNIP - BLACK ROOT ROT
Cause: Aphanomyces raphani and Rhizoctonia solani, fungi. The organisms over-
winter in the soil and on diseased plant residue in the soil.
Symptoms: Aphanomyces raphani invades the fine rootlets of the young seed-
lings and develops resting spores in large numbers within the roots. On the
main taproot dark surface lesions develop which turn grayish with age. These
enlarge into grayish-black discolored areas of irregular size and shape just
beneath the root surface. The main root may be girdled and growth of the plant
interrupted until new roots are formed above the girdle. Systemic infection
occurs occasionally, resulting in darkened vascular tissue within a normal
appearing root.
Control:
1. Where possible, avoid planting any of the crucifers on the same land for 3
or more years.
2. Growers have obtained good control using fumigants containing a combination
of chloropicrin and methyl bromide sealed with plastic tarp.
Residues: Use 82.5 to 115.5 lb actual chloropicrin plus 167.5 to 234.5 lb
actual methyl bromide/A with a plastic seal.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TURNIP - CLUB ROOT
Cause: Plasmodiophora brassicae; this organism survives indefinitely in
infested soil.
Symptoms: Injured diseased plants are chlorotic, later turning a yellowish
color, and are slow in growth and development. They often partially wilt
during warm days. Beneath the fleshy turnip root, enlarged clublike growths
develop. These ultimately become infected with secondary bacteria, rot, and
break down.
Control:
1. The European rutabaga variety, `Marian' is tolerant to club root as is the
turnip variety `York'.
2. High applications of lime have been used on infested soil. This material
apparently retards the development of the causal fungus. See Cabbage--Club
Root for lime rates.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TURNIP - POWDERY MILDEW
Cause: Erysiphe polygoni, a fungus. This organism is perpetuated from year to
year on turnip and rutabaga refuse and other hosts including weeds.
Symptoms: A powdery, whitish-gray coloring consisting of the fungus and fungus
spores of the mildew develops on infected leaves. In the advanced stages, the
leaves are distorted, twisted, and retarded in growth. They ultimately turn
yellow and die.
Control: Sulfur dust or wettable sulfur sprays (6 lb in 100 gal water) are the
best fungicidal controls.
Residues: Sulfur-no time limitations.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TURNIP - SEED TREATMENT
Aids in control of black rot, Alternaria leaf spot, and black leg.
Thiram - Follow product directions.
Captan - Follow product directions.
When Pythium is a problem, use Anchor flowable at 1.5 fl oz/cwt seed or
Ridomil at 4 to 8 pt/A either incorporated preplant or as a
postplant/preemergence application. See label for further information.
Note: Where black leg is a problem, soak seed in hot water, 122 F for 25
minutes. Dry. Just before planting, use treatments listed above.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
---------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------
This information was prepared by the Oregon State
University Extension Service from Oregon and
Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable
production guidelines from public institutions
in the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are
intended as a general guide for Oregon commercial
vegetable producers. Address comments or questions
to your County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S.
Mansour, Department of Horticulture, Oregon State
University, Corvallis, OR 9733l.
---------------------------------------------------
. ..
faqupdate.001 seedcats .cache .cache+ . .. mail-order-plants poisonous-plants seedcats.faq From: klier@cobra.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: To Spray or Not to Spray?
Date: 16 Jul 94 07:44:54 -0500
We've talked a lot on this group this year about use of various controls
for plant pests... everything from Bacillus thuringensis, to soap and water,
to malathion, nicotine, sevin, and arsenic.... what I've not seen discussed
is *what level* of damage is needed before you start applying some of these
controls (esp. insect controls).
My point of view is that there should be no controls (except cultural
controls like mixed plantings, and the proper soils, water, light
and fertilization) until you have good evidence that the problem will be
reaching "crisis", and you really need to do something. Until you've
reached this threshhold, don't do anything... so what if you have a
few holes in your bean leaves, or a squash borer... if you've planted
enough to allow for some crop damage, why create a surplus? Chances
are, if there hasn't been a great deal of spraying in your neighborhood,
that natural enemies of the pests are going to move in and feast when
the pest population gets big enough.
If, however, things are getting out of hand, try some hand picking,
high pressure water sprays, pruning, or other "basics" as a first
resort in reducing pest populations. Don't get out the "big guns"
until you really know you need them.
Why?
1) Most pesticides, unless applied in a very targeted way, are not
specific; thus, you get the good guys along with the bad guys.
2) Insects and other short-lived critters have a tremendous capacity
to adapt their populations in response to a selection pressure: like
malathion or Bacillus thuringensis. When a population with a few
individuals that aren't susceptible to the pesticide is subjected
to pesticide treatment, the susceptible ones die, and the resistant
ones reproduce. Thus, by using a pesticide, you run the risk of
helping create a resistant strain of pest. (and the shorter the
life cycle of the pest, the more likely we are to see resistant
pest populations, soon!)
3) Developing new strains of BT and other microbial pesticides isn't
easy; ditto developing pesticides that are targeted to specific
pests. If we "wear out" the "environmentally desireable" pesticides
with overuse, we're stuck with the "bad pesticides" when we really
need controls. :-( (this is rather like the new antibiotic resistant
strains of bacteria that have been developing in response to increased
antibiotic use-- e.g., multi-drug resistant tuberculosis, multi-drug
resistant Staphylococcus aureus.)
Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI
[WATER FAQ location: http://www.siouxlan.com/water/faq.html]
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__________________________________________________________________________
THE WATER FAQ
__________________________________________________________________________
[IMAGE]
Request more information
Special
National Testing Laboratories press release related to federal reports
on poor quality of drinking water - 6/1/95
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. Water Basics
2. Hard Water
1. What is hard water?
2. What are hardness minerals?
3. How do you measure hardness?
4. Why should hard water concern me?
5. Who will test my water for hardness?
6. My water is hard; now what?
7. Which water conditioning company should I call?
8. What should I look for in a water conditioner?
9. I have a water conditioner, now my water feels "slimy"!
3. Water that Smells
1. My water stinks! What can I do?
2. OK, it's my raw water that smells -- now what?
1. Minor, musty smell
2. Strong, rotten-egg smell
3. Strong, musty smell
Solutions:
1. Filters
2. Feeders
3. Aeration
4. Water that Stains
1. I have red stains in my sinks and other fixtures -- Help!!
Iron types:
1. oxidized
2. soluble
3. colloidal
4. bacterial
5. organic-bound
2. I have blue or green stains on my fixtures -- Help!!
1. copper in your water supply
2. copper pipes & corrosive water
5. Water Testing Information
1. When Should I Test?
2. What Could I Test For?
1. List of contaminants and health effects
3. An Easy Way to Test
1. Sample test results
Other 'Water' sites of interest
1. Hill's Plumbing Page
2. Purdue's Gopher on Water Quality
3. Water Quality Topics - Florida State University
__________________________________________________________________________
Water Basics
__________________________________________________________________________
Water is generally classified into two groups: Surface Water and
Ground Water. Surface water is just what the name implies; it is
water found in a river, lake or other surface impoundment. This water
is usually not very high in mineral content, and many times is called
"soft water" even though it usually is not. Surface water is exposed
to many different contaminants, such as animal wastes, pesticides,
insecticides, industrial wastes, algae and many other organic
materials. Even surface water found in a pristine mountain stream
possibly contains Giardia or Coliform Bacteria from the feces of wild
animals, and should be boiled or disinfected by some means prior to
drinking.
Ground Water is that which is trapped beneath the ground. Rain that
soaks into the ground, rivers that disappear beneath the earth,
melting snow are but a few of the sources that recharge the supply of
underground water. Because of the many sources of recharge, ground
water may contain any or all of the contaminants found in surface
water as well as the dissolved minerals it picks up during it's long
stay underground. Waters that contains dissolved minerals, such as
calcium and magnesium above certain levels are considered "hard
water" Because water is considered a "solvent", ie, over time it can
break down the ionic bonds that hold most substances together, it
tends to dissolve and 'gather up' small amounts of whatever it comes
in contact with. For instance, in areas of the world where rock such
as limestone, gypsum, fluorspar, magnetite, pyrite and magnesite are
common, well water is usually very high in calcium content, and
therefore considered "hard".
Due to the different characteristics of these two types of water, it
is important that you know the source of your water -- Surface or
Ground. Of the 326 million cubic miles of water on earth, only about
3% of it is fresh water; and 3/4 of that is frozen. Only 1/2 of 1% of
all water is underground; about 1/50th of 1% of all water is found in
lakes and streams. The average human is about 70% water. You can only
survive 5 or less days without water.
[ Back to Table of Contents ]
[ Back to the Water Treatment Page ]
__________________________________________________________________________
Hard Water
__________________________________________________________________________
WHAT IS HARD WATER?
Hard water is the most common problem found in the average home. Hard
water is water that contains dissolved hardness minerals above 1 GPG.
WHAT ARE HARDNESS MINERALS?
Calcium, manganese and magnesium are the most common.
HOW DO YOU MEASURE HARDNESS?
Parts per million or grains per gallon are the most common. One part
per million (PPM) is just what it says: out of one million units, one
unit. Grains, or grains per gallon (GPG) is a weight measurement
taken from the Egyptians; one dry grain of wheat, or about 1/7000 of
a pound. It takes 17.1 PPM to equal 1 GPG.
WHY SHOULD HARD WATER CONCERN ME?
For many uses, it would not matter. For instance, to put out fires,
water your lawn, wash the mud off the streets or float your boat,
water would have to be pretty hard to cause a problem. But for
bathing, washing dishes and clothes, shaving, washing your car and
many other uses of water, hard water is not as efficient or
convenient as "soft water." For instance:
* you use only 1/2 as much soap cleaning with soft water.
* because hard water and soap combine to form "soap scum" that
can't be rinsed off, forming a 'bathtub ring' on all surfaces and
drys leaving unsightly spots on your dishes.
* when hard water is heated, the hardness minerals are
re-crystallized to form hardness scale. This scale can plug your
pipes and hot water heater, causing premature failure,
necessitating costly replacement.
* the soap scum remains on your skin even after rinsing, clogging
the pores of your skin and coating every hair on your body. This
crud can serve as a home for bacteria, causing diaper rash, minor
skin irritation and skin that continually itches.
* for many industrial uses, the hardness minerals interfere with
the process, causing inferior product.
WHO WILL TEST MY WATER FOR HARDNESS?
If you are connected to a municipal supply, call the water
Superintendent, or City Hall. They can either provide the answer, or
direct you to the proper individual. Remember the conversion factor:
it takes 17.1 PPM to equal 1 GPG. In other words, if your water has
171 PPM calcium in it, divide 171 by 17.1 to get the answer in
grains. This example would be 10 grains, or GPG.
If you are on a private supply, you could contact your county
extension agent: collect a sample in an approved container and send
to the city or state health department for testing: find a testing
lab (try the yellow pages): call a water conditioning company. By the
way, if you are on a private well, YOU, AND YOU ALONE are responsible
for the safety of the water you and your family drink. You should
test your supply for bacteria at least once per year and other
contaminants at least every three years -- more under certain
conditions.
MY WATER IS HARD; NOW WHAT?
If your water tests over 3 GPG hard, you should mechanically soften
it. Softening water that is less than 3 GPG, while it makes your
shaving and bathing more comfortable, is considered a luxury due to
the fact that the cost is more than your savings. Over 3 GPG, you
will save enough to pay for the cost and maintenance of a water
conditioner.
As of this writing, the most economical way for you to soften your
household water is with an ion exchange water softener. This unit
uses sodium chloride (salt) to recharge man made plastic like beads
that exchange hardness minerals for sodium. As the hard water passes
through and around the plastic like beads, the hardness minerals
(ions) attach themselves to the bead, dislodging the sodium ions.
This process is called "ion exchange". When the plastic bead, called
Resin, has no sodium ions left, it is exhausted, and can soften no
more water. The resin is recharged by flushing with salt water. The
sodium ions force the hardness ions off the resin beads; then the
excess sodium is rinsed away, and the resin is ready to start the
process all over again. This cycle can be repeated many, many time
before the resin loses it's ability to react to these forces.
WHICH WATER CONDITIONING COMPANY SHOULD I CALL?
As in any purchase, talk to your friends and neighbors -- who do they
use? Are they happy with them? Check with the Better Business Bureau
for complaints. The BBB can't prevent shady business, but they can
and do keep a file of complaints filed by people who have had
dealings with them.
Ask at least two to come to your home to look at your plumbing and
then give you a quote on their equipment. Have them explain all the
features of the unit, as well as the warranty.
WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR IN A WATER CONDITIONER?
Make sure the unit has enough resin to treat all the water you and
your family will use. As of this writing, the average usage per day,
per person (including children), for inside the house is 87 gallons.
You should also be shown two or three ways to initiate recharging the
unit.
The oldest way is by a timeclock, ie, your water usage is calculated
and the frequency of recharging programmed into the timer. On the
appointed day, at the appointed hour, the unit recharges. If all went
as calculated, ok. If you were gone -- too bad -- you just wasted
salt and water. If you had extra company -- too bad -- you ran out of
soft water. You must pick a unit that will treat one days supply of
water and still have about 40% of the resin in the recharged state.
This will provide you with the most efficiency for salt and
regeneration water.
A second way to initiate recharge is by electronic sensing. By
electronically checking the resin, these units can determine when the
resin needs to be recharged -- this is a great help when your water
hardness changes, when you have extra company or when you are gone
for a few days. These 'sensor' units can save you up to 42% of your
salt and recharge water as well as keep you in soft water when you
have extra guests.
A third way to initiate recharge is by using a meter. These units
have a meter installed in the water line and simply measure how many
gallons of water you actually used. The unit is set according to your
water hardness, and will recharge when the gallons used approach
exhaustion of the resin bed, saving you a high percentage of your
recharge salt and water.
Many variations of these methods are on the market. Some use
computers to calculate in advance, when to recharge the unit; some
have two resin beds (tanks), and switch back and forth between the
two, keeping you in soft water all the time, at the highest
efficiency. These systems are most effective in high-hardness waters,
ie, over 10-12 GPG, and over 4 people in the family. Low hardness
water and smaller families do not require the extra expense of these
options.
I HAVE A WATER CONDITIONER, NOW MY WATER FEELS "SLIMY"
When the hardness minerals are removed, soap no longer forms a soap
curd, or "bathtub ring" on your skin, plugging your pores, clinging
to every strand of hair. You are now truly clean. That slick, slimy
feeling you feel is your natural body oils -- without the soap scum.
The old saying that you get "squeaky clean" is a myth; that feeling
was caused by the soap scum on your skin. By the way, that soap scum
provided an excellent place for bacteria to hide and grow, causing
numerous minor skin ailments.
[ Back to Table of Contents ]
[ Back to the Water Treatment Page ]
__________________________________________________________________________
Water that Smells
__________________________________________________________________________
MY WATER STINKS! WHAT CAN I DO?
First, you must learn a little about your nose: Once you smell some
things, your sense of smell is dulled for a short while, and you
can't make accurate judgments of smell. For instance, if I blindfold
you, let you smell gasoline, hand you a piece of onion to eat and
tell you it is an apple, you can't tell it's not because your nose
isn't working properly!! (Your sense of taste isn't working either --
smell and taste are closely related and affect each other!)
So, to correctly analyze your problem, you need to become a
detective. The best time to locate the smell is after you have been
away from home for a few hours -- this allows your nose to become
sensitive to "that smell" again. With your 'sensitized' nose, go to
an outside spigot -- one that the raw, untreated water flows from.
Turn it on, let it run a few minutes, then smell it. If it smells --
we found it. If not, we must look further. (Many, many smells are not
in the raw water at all, they are introduced into the water inside
the house.) Go to a cold, treated water spigot inside the house, turn
it on and let it run a minute; then smell. If this water smells, and
the outside, untreated water didn't -- you must have a device
(cartridge filter, water softener, etc.) in the water line that needs
to be cleaned and sanitized.
If it is a cartridge, or 'string' filter, replace the element and
sanitize the housing. If you have a water conditioner call the
Company where you bought the unit for advise on how to sanitize the
unit. If you rent the unit, just call! You can sanitize the unit by
pouring Hydrogen Peroxide or Chlorine Bleach in the brine well of the
salt tank, and placing the unit into regeneration. Check with the
seller, or, if they are no longer in business, any Professional Water
Conditioning Dealer for how much to put in your particular unit.
If the cold, treated water inside didn't smell, turn on the hot water
and let it run a few minutes -- does it smell? If it does, chances
are you have a sacrificial anode inside your hot water heater that is
"coming apart at the seams" and throwing off a "rotten egg" odor.
This obnoxious smell will drive you right out of your shower! The
only solution is to remove the anode from the heater and replace it
with a new one. I will say, however, if you replace the anode, you
will more than likely get the smell back again -- so I say just
remove it, and put a plug in the hole! This anode is placed in a hot
water heater (glass lined) to seal up any cracks in the glass lining
and prevent corrosion of the heater tank. You will find the anode on
the top of the heater; remove the tin cover and insulation -- look
for what looks like a pipe plug -- about 1/2 inch in size. Turn off
the heat source and the water; have someone hold the tank to prevent
it from turning, and unscrew the "plug". You will find that the
'plug' has a 30 - 40 " long pipe (or what's left of one) attached to
it. Hopefully, most of the rod is still attached -- just corroded. If
so, replace the plug with a real pipe plug and throw the anode away.
If part of the rod has corroded off, and fallen into the heater, you
may have to try to fish it out. Either way, before you plug the hole,
pour about 2 pints of chlorine bleach into the heater first. This
will kill the smell left in the heater. If, after a week or so, the
smell returns, you must fish out the rod that is in the bottom of the
tank. Good Luck!
OK, IT'S MY RAW WATER THAT SMELLS -- NOW WHAT?
First, you must determine what is causing the smell, and how strong
it is.
Minor, musty smell
If it is a minor, or low-level smell, you MIGHT be able to solve it
with a small, point-of-use carbon filter. You can place these types
of filters on the water line going to the cold water where you draw
you drinking water. Or, you might solve it with a whole-house filter
on your incoming water line to filter all of the water inside your
home.
Because carbon removes smells by ADsorbtion, ie, the smell "sticks"
or "adheres" to the carbon particles, you must be careful not to
exceed the manufactures recommended flow -- some filters even have a
flow restriction built in them. If you run water through them too
fast, you will not remove the smells. Whenever you place a carbon
filter in your water line, you must be sure to replace the element
and sanitize the housing on a regular basis. Carbon filters remove
organics from water, and the bacteria found in water like to eat
organics -- the carbon filter is a nice, dark place, just full of
food for them to grow and reproduce in. Regular and routine
replacement will help prevent any buildup of bacteria in the
cartridge.
Strong, rotten-egg smell
Strong, rotten-egg odors in the raw water is usually the result of
the decomposition of decaying underground organic deposits. As water
is drawn to the surface, hydrogen sulfide gas can be released to the
atmosphere. In strong concentrations, this gas is flammable and
poisonous. It rapidly tarnishes silver, turning it black. It is toxic
to aquarium fish in sufficient quantities. As little as 0.5 ppm
hydrogen sulfide can be tasted in your drinking water.
Strong, musty smell
If you are unlucky enough to have this problem, you should look for a
company that has local experience in dealing with this problem. There
are three basic ways to solve this problem for homeowners.
Filters
Installation of a whole house filter loaded with a media that is
specific for hydrogen sulfide removal is successful many times.
These types of filters must be recharged with chlorine or potassium
permanganate. The removal capacities of these types of filters are
usually fairly low, and must be sized to contain enough media to
prevent premature exhaustion, and subsequent passage of the smell
to service. It is also typical that the amount of hydrogen sulfide
can fluctuate rapidly, causing great difficulty in sizing the unit.
In addition, potassium permanganate is extremely "messy", and will
leave stains that are very difficult to remove.
Feeders
Feeder systems consist of a small pump that injects small amounts
of chlorine (usually) into the incoming water. The water must then
be held for a short period of time to allow the hydrogen sulfide to
precipitate out of the water. This tank should be designed in such
a manner that the water that enters it will mix thoroughly with the
water in the tank, to assure complete reaction. The water then
should pass through a filter to remove both the precipitated matter
and the chlorine remaining in the water. You should be aware,
however, that whenever you mix chlorine with organic materials
(remember where hydrogen sulfide come from!), the chances are very
high that trihalomethanes (possible cancer causing carginigns) will
be formed. Also, feeder maintenance is high, you should be prepared
to "play" with the unit frequently.
Aeration
Aeration consists of breaking the incoming water into small
droplets (spray) into the air, drawing fresh air through that
spray, collecting the water into a storage tank, repressurize the
water, passing it through a particulate filter to catch any
particles that might be carried out of the storage tank. The air
drawn though the spray must be vented outside the house --
remember, it is toxic and explosive. Although this system
necessitates another pump to repressurize your supply, you are not
adding any chemicals to your water, which makes it attractive. This
system is low maintenance and no chemicals to purchase. Initial
cost may be higher, however, and space requirements may be greater.
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Water that Stains
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I HAVE RED STAINS IN MY SINKS AND OTHER FIXTURES -- HELP!
Red stains are normally caused by iron in the water. You must test to
determine the amount and the type of iron you have. Some types are:
oxidized, soluble, colloidal, bacteria or organic-bound. All are a
problem! It only takes 0.3 ppm to stain clothes, fixtures, etc.
Oxidized
This type of iron is usually found in a surface water supply. This is
water that contains red particles when first drawn from the tap. The
easiest way to remove this type of iron is by a fine mechanical
filter. A cartridge type filter is usually not a good solution, due
to the rapid plugging of the element. Another method or removal is by
feeding a chemical into the water to cause the little particles of
iron to clump together, and then fall to the bottom of a holding
tank, where they can be flushed away.
Soluable
Soluble iron is called "clear water" iron. After being drawn form the
well and contacting the air, the iron oxidizes, or "rusts", forming
reddish brown particles in the water. Depending on the amount of iron
in the water, you may solve this problem with a water conditioner, or
a combination of softener and filter. You may use an iron filter that
recharges with chlorine or potassium permanganate, or feed chemicals
to oxidize the iron and then filter it with a mechanical filter. You
can sometimes hide the effects of soluble iron by adding chemicals
that, in effect, coat the iron in the water and prevent it from
reaching oxygen and oxidizing.
Colloidal
Colloidal iron is very small particles of oxidized iron suspended in
the water. They are usually bound together with other substances.
They resist agglomeration, ie, the combining together of like
substances forming larger, heavier, more filterable ones, due to the
static electrical charge they carry. This iron looks more like a
color than particles when held up in a clear glass, as they are so
small. Treatment is usually one of two: Feed chlorine to oxidize the
organic away from the iron, thus allowing agglomeration to occur, or,
feeding polymers that attract the static charge on the particles,
forming larger clumps of matter that is filterable.
Bacterial
Iron bacteria are living organisms that feed on the iron found in the
water, pipes, fittings, etc. They build slime all along the water
flow path. Occasionally, the slimy growths break free, causing
extremely discolored water. If a large slug breaks loose, it can pass
through to the point of use, plugging fixtures. These types of
bacteria are becoming more common throughout the United States. If
you suspect bacteria iron, look for a reddish or green slime buildup
in your toilet flush tank. To confirm your suspicions, gather a
sample of this slime and take it to your local health department, or
water department for observation under the microscope. This type of
iron problem is very hard to eliminate. You must kill the bacteria,
usually by chlorination. You must use high amounts of chlorine
throughout your plumbing system to kill all organisms. You may find
it necessary to feed chlorine continuously to prevent regrowth. A
filter alone will not solve this problem.
Organic bound
When iron combines with tannins and other organics, complexes are
formed that cannot be removed by ion exchange or oxidizing filters.
This iron may be mistaken for colloidal iron. Test for tannins; if
they are present, it is most likely combined with the iron. Low level
amounts of this pest can be removed by use of a carbon filter, which
absorbs the complex. You must replace the carbon bed when it becomes
saturated. Higher amounts require feeding chlorine to oxidize the
organics to break apart from the iron and cause both to precipitate
into a filterable particle.
I HAVE BLUE OR GREEN STAINS ON MY FIXTURES -- HELP!
You either have copper in your water supply, or you have copper pipes
and corrosive water. Test for copper in your water. Test the pH,
total dissolved solids content and the oxygen content of your water.
Copper
Copper can be removed by ion exchange, ie, a water softener. The
removal rate is about the same as it is for iron.
Copper pipes and corrosive water
If your pH is from 5 to 7, you may raise it by passing the water
through a sacrificial media. By sacrificing calcium carbonate into
the water, the corrosively will be reduced. If the pH is below 5, you
will need to feed chemicals into the water.
If the corrosively is caused by excess oxygen, the hot water will be
much more corrosive than the cold. Treatment is by feeding
polyphosphate or silicates to coat and protect the plumbing, or to
aeriate the water to release the excess oxygen.
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Water Testing Information
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WHEN SHOULD I TEST?
Several factors will influence when and how often you test your
water. Where do get your water from? Has that source changed? Have
you done any plumbing changes lately? Is there reason to believe that
your water is contaminated? Is there a sickness or illness in your
family affecting more than one person and over a longer than normal
time period?
If you receive your water from a "Public Supply", ie, a municipal
supply, or a supply that provides water to more than 25 persons for
60 days per year (some states are different -- check with YOUR local
water department), you can be fairly certain that the water supply is
checked on a regular basis. The frequency of the testing is based on
the number of people served, and may vary from more than once per
week to once per month, or even less. Under these conditions, test
when you move into a new residence to acquire a "base line" of
contaminant level, if any. Retest every three years, unless you have
reason to believe that something has changed that could affect the
quality of your water.
If you have a private well, you are the only person who is
responsible for the water your family drinks and bathes in. I
recommend testing by your local Health Department every six months
for Bacteria and Nitrate. These two tests serve as indicators for
other types of contaminations -- that is not to say forget the other
tests; just that if you get a "bad" test from them, you should also
retest for the other types of contaminants as well. Private wells
should be tested on a regular basis for Pesticides, Herbicides,
Metals, Organic and Inorganic chemicals and volatiles. Currently, no
laws govern the frequency of such testing -- that is why I say YOU
are the only person responsible for your family's water. I recommend
an initial test (for a base line), and then at least once per year.
Remember, one day after testing and finding "no contaminants", your
source could become contaminated.
WHAT COULD I TEST FOR?
Coliform bacteria are a group of microorganisms that are normally
found in the intestinal tract of humans and other warm blooded
animals, and in surface water. The presence of these organisms in
drinking water suggest contamination from a surface or shallow
subsurface source such as cesspool leakage, barnyard runoff or other
source. The presence of these bacteria indicate that disease-causing
(pathogenic) organisms may enter the drinking water supply in the
same manner if preventive action is not taken. Drinking water should
be free of coliforms.
Cysts and viruses are microbiological contaminants, usually found in
surface water supplies. Giardia lamblia cysts can cause giardiasis, a
gastrointestinal disease. Another "bug" getting a lot of attention
lately, is cryptosporidium, single-cell parasite measuring about 2 -
5 microns in diameter. Many surface water supplies contain this pest,
which also comes from the intestine of warm blooded animals.
Nitrate in drinking water supplies may reduce the oxygen carrying
capacity of the blood (cyanosis) if ingested in sufficient amounts by
infants under 6 months of age. This could cause a disease called
"methemoglobinemia", or "blue baby" syndrome. The EPA has established
a maximum contaminant level (MCL) for nitrate at 10 mg/l (ppm)
measured as N. Unlike coliform or other types of bacteria, boiling
the water will actually INCREASE the amount of nitrate remaining in
the water, increasing the danger to infants. If you have high nitrate
water, either treat it with an approved treatment metholodgy or find
another source: Boiling will only make it worse!
Lead is now known to leach from older sweat joints in copper pipe. As
the water sits in the pipes, small amounts of lead 'dissolve' into
the water, contaminating it. Lead is particularly harmful to small
children as they more rapidly absorb the toxic substance into their
systems. The EPA has estimated that more than 40 million U.S.
residents use water that contains more than the recommended levels.
Click here to see a list of contaminants and the possible health
effects of those contaminants.
AN EASY WAY TO TEST
The sponsor of this Water FAQ is Culligan H20 4 u in South Sioux
City, Nebraska. We offer a complete, five bottle testing kit, ready
for your use. This kit will be tested by the National Testing
Laboratories, Inc. in Ypsilanti, Michigan. You simply follow the
directions in the kit and return the sample to the lab. They test
your sample and then report to you. Your test results will be a two
page report showing contaminant level, a cover letter explaining the
test results and what you should do.
To see a sample of the two page report, click here.
We offer two tests:
1. Water Check - $99
All of the above chemicals tested EXCEPT the last 20, ie,
pesticides, herbicides and PCB's
2. Water Check with pesticides - $139
ALL of the above chemicals
ORDER WATER TEST
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